The charm of the desert

Hoggar - Tassili - The charm of the desert

Text by Bruno Visca

"Oh man, who cares if you feel hot or cold? It is the law of the desert being hot in the day and cold at night. But you don't have no more to do than turning your face to heaven to receive sun and stars. And you will be pleased of it".
Mussa Ag Amastane, Touareg poet

The emotions that you can feel in the desert go well beyond the sensations of hot and cold climate. There are feelings of calm, tranquillity and peace, in such a sharp contrast with the frenetic pace we are used in our "civilized" society. The total immersion in a pristine nature, the beauty of the landscape around us, the colors of the dunes varying from ocher to red with reflexes that, at sunset and dawn, take tones and shadows that only a painter can deliver with its canvases. And so the sky colored of an intense blue during the day and overflowing with stars in the nights, offers to the visitor, who knows how to deal with the small inconvenience that inevitably will be met, a sense of sweetness and serenity that can help him to better appreciate the beauty of our "old" world. This is the desert, where life seems almost absent; it may seem hostile to the travellers at a superficial overview, but it's not, even because (especially in rocky areas) the desert is full of life: in addition to the few large mammals like dromedaries, gazelles and fennecs (the so called Desert Foxes), there are many insects, small reptiles and many birds. And what to say of the few thorny shrubs and a few plants that can live in this so hostile environment, pushing their roots deep down in order to capture the few water in the subsoil?
Our journey takes place in southern Algeria, in an area where 90% of the population is Touareg ethnic (Targh - singular name). Next relatives of Berbers, they are admired for the elegance of their clothes and their really regal bearing: they managed to settle and to develop an extraordinary nomadic civilization in a territory that may seem uninhabitable. Their name probably derives from the Arabic word for "plate", to indicate a region rich in trees and water, as those territories were in remote eras. The Touaregs are very proud of their ethnicity and are considered free men, extraordinary knights and very familiar with the deep desert; their language is the tamashek, derived from Berber, but most of all speak French correctly. They are even called "blue men" because their shèsh (long strip of cloth, usually blue, behind which hides their face), losing colour, let their face taking a blue shade. According to Touareg tradition, shèsh is also used to prevent evil spirits to be introduced in the heart through both nose and mouth. Contrary to what happens in the Arab world, women don't hide their face and, in this seemingly male-dominated society, they are the ones who handed writing, that teach children and erect tents; they may also abandon her husband with the same formula that the Koran provides for men. Unfortunately, today, the progress made virtually useless the old Touareg men activities, who were mainly the leather saddles building and trading made with long caravans of dromedaries along transaharian tracks. Despite this cultural disintegration, the Touareg people didn't surrender and, with the advent of even rare visitors, devoted to related to tourism activities, such as handicrafts production and guidance during desert crossings. Spending few days in the desert in Touareg company can be a wonderful and unforgettable experience; very able to focus even when there are no reference points and gaze, addressed to the horizon, can see only sand and stones. Their deep knowledge of the territory gives a sense of security to travellers, that, once alone, certainly would be lost. Before the beginning of the excursion, which always takes place calmly and without haste, we will purchase wood that will serve to light some fire. The fire is a real rite that takes place three times a day: just awake in the morning for tea, at lunchtime, to cook midday meal and at evening. The food of Targh, in the desert, is essentially the "cracker", a non-leavened bread made with corn flour, water and salt; once lit the wood to obtain the fire, the Targh kneads everything with an expert worthy, like that of the best Neapolitan pizzaman. Once obtained the desired consistency, the cracker is covered with sand on which deposited the embers; after about 30 minutes when cooking is finished, the cracker is extracted from the sand, cleaned and reduced in tiny pieces that are seasoned with vegetables and cut meat, previously stewed. After the meal you can't miss tea, that especially in the evening, is a real rite. The leaves of tea, sometimes accompanied by some leaf of mint, are boiled three times to get thinner tea concentration; after each time sugar is added to boiling water, being shuffled with considerable expertise, racking tea from a teapot to another, for several times always putting one considerably farther down from the other. All this three different tea should be drunk because each has its own meaning. According to Touareg tradition: the first is hard as death, the second is strong like life, while the third is sweet as love.
The desert is not made only with sand, in fact only about 20% of the Sahara is sandy. The Hoggar area, which we crossed in the first week, consists predominantly of a rocky plateau with several steps where isolated pinnacles rise, ruins of ancient volcanic activity, among them the higher is the Tahat (2918 meters). The Tassili n'Ajjer, visited in the second week, is formed by a vast terraced plateau placed on the sidelines of Hoggar massive, with sandstone pinnacles and spires deeply incised by erosion. The Tassili area is one of the major attractions of rock Saharian Africa. In particular, it is famous for the numerous and important wall paintings explored and found in a systematic way since the mid-50s onwards.

 

With an Air Algerie flight, of which we appreciate the "punctuality", via Rome to Algiers, we land at 21:00 in Tamanrasset where we set in a camping-hotel for the night. Tamanrasset, placed 1400 metres above sea level, once a small village lost in the desert, is now centre of a discrete tourist traffic and, thanks to the progressive sedentarisation of the Touareg tribe, has a population of about 40000 inhabitants. Virtually it does not offer anything, but it is one of the great myths of the Sahara.

I get up at 7:00 in silence, in order to not wake my companions, and immediately I suffer a welcome surprise: the door of the room does not open. Hearing me trying with all the available keys, all wake up and try to unlock the door, each with the greatest commitment, but without success. After about 10 minutes a Targh, hearing the noise caused by our unsuccessful attempts, suggests us to give him the key making it pass under the door slot. From the outside he opens us. It seems not to be surprised but, instead, convinced that everything is absolutely normal! Perhaps we fear that the previous guests flee without paying the bill and that is the reason why they closed us in the rooms... After a short tour of Tamanrasset to buy the necessary for the incoming days to spend across the desert, we start our exploration with an off-road excursion to the Assekrem refuge, located on the Hoggar mountains, where we will stay for the night. Here Badi, our future driver, is introduced to us. In Tamanrasset we left the non-essential baggage that we will retrieve in the next days. We left the city forward following a track in the desert, in a stony area. The bare and desolate landscape, at the same time fascinating, the sense of loneliness with the eyes ranging on the Hoggar hills lying in the distance, caused to me an attraction that is hardly describable here, and that many could not realize until having proven. Our journey continues with some stop to take pictures and a detour to visit Afilale. It is a "ghelta" (puddle of water) on the banks of which grows thick vegetation. A true rarity in these places. To reach this location, a track branches off from the main path (clearly visible on the ground) to head through a door placed nearby, built with two stone arches, that seems the entrance for nothing. The journey continues into a lunar landscape. After a continuous latch, the trail begins to climb, and at 15:00 we arrive at the shelter placed 2600 meters high. Here we enjoy a beautiful view of the peaks surrounding the south side of the refuge, a real amphitheater of pinnacles and peaks that vaguely recall Dolomites. We came to the shelter dirty and dusty, but with soul and spirit perfectly in tune with these places, of which we appreciate the clear air and, especially, the enchanting landscape admirable from there. At 16:00, in about 20 minutes to walk, we climb to Charles Foucauld hermitage (2780 meters high) placed just above the refuge. Then we waited dusk to immortalize the pinnacles that become red colored thanks to the sun rays that, coming down, strike them with a typical angle. Unfortunately the clouds prevent us from admiring sunset in all its splendor. We descend then to the refuge at 19:00, hoping to be able to enjoy again the dawn of the morning after. Dinner based on "sciorba" (soup) and cous cous.

Still asleep at 5:45 we get up. At 6:10 we start in order to come back to the hermitage, and contemplate the sunrise scheduled for 6:45. We climb in the dark, illuminating our path with the bare light of our frontlamps. Arrived on top I look anxiously the sky that gradually begins to paint of pink, giving us a beautiful dawn that repays disappointment of yesterday evening ruined sunset. At 7:30 we return to the refuge for breakfast and, at 8:30, we come back Tamanrasset where we arrive at noon, after having travelled backwards across the track previously followed. The landscape and the view of the desert, although not new as already seen yesterday, raised in me the same emotions and feelings. Here Chire, the second driver and Abdellah, our guide, are introduced to us. Done some purchases, at 16:00, we leave for the first stage of desert crossing, heading to Djanet; our goal is Tamekrest where we arrive at 18:30. During the transit I also experience the emotion of meeting (in a place called Tounen) a tribe of nomadic Touareg, with dromedaries used for the transport of goods during their continuous movings. To avoid this poor animals to go too much far from their nomad camp, their front legs are linked, making them walk only by small steps even not without difficulty. The Tamekrest area, where we set our camp, is located in the bed of a dry river that, judging by its high banks, before desertification had to carry abundant water. Nearby there's what Touareg call a "fall": really different from our idea, in reality this is a very small water torrent (almost invisible) formed by a small source born on the heights and artificially feeding a well where nomads get water supplies. For dinner, Annamaria and Eros, prepared excellent "fusilli" pasta seasoned with tomato sauce and onions, absolutely very welcome by the whole group. This will be the only night we'll spent in tents, starting from tomorrow we'll sleep under the stars.

At 6:30 we (Eros, Eugenio and me) go upon a hill behind our camp to admire sunrise, as we'll do for the whole week, even always veiled by some cloud. Before our departure for the second stage that will lead us to Yuof Ahakit, we are going to visit the small pit and the "fall" in the vicinity. The thin trickle of water does not even remotely resemble the waterfalls you can admire in the Alps, for example, but for the locals it still represents a wealth. During our journey we meet a village near which there is a well with women intent on water drawing. The whole village is made of huts built with reeds, inside there are only women, probably because men are out to pasture cattle. Then we continue along our path following, wherever possible, the beds of some ancient rivers now completely dry. The landscape gradually changes and the desert, rocky with the presence of some rare tree, gradually becomes sandy with the total lack of vegetation. Around 18:00 we reach the place where we'll set our field. This location fascinates the tourist both for the presence of dunes and rock formations that rise from the sand rising vertically for several metres; the background horizon closes on a sequence of very jagged pinnacles that seem to delimit and protect a part of the desert, in such a beautiful way to seem unreal! This is certainly the most fascinating landscape so far encountered here.

At 6:00 the light of dawn wakes me up. I take advantage of it to enjoy the enchantment ensured by this wonderful nature. Unfortunately, this morning we have to continue with the third stage that will lead us to Honang. We start at 8:30 and after 1½ hours, we leave the dunes to enter an area with prevalence of hard soil and hard rock. The territory is completely flat and the heat that accompanies us during our travel encourages the formation of the mirages phenomenon that, just yesterday took part directly in front of our eyes. In the distance seems to glimpse a forest on the banks of a large pond. Mirages are optical phenomena caused by the refraction of light layers in the atmosphere when the low air density has an abnormal distribution. They are observable on surfaces intensely heated by the sun, because the temperature of both soil and air layer to its contact is much higher than that of the upper layers; in these cases a distant object can appear as reflected on a water mirror. After the usual stop for lunch, with the cooking of the traditional "cracker", made by our escorting Tuareg, we are driving along a region where the territory constantly changes. Spoiled and monotonous landscapes alternate with spectacular ones as that of blue rocks zone. This is a vast site of rocks coming to surface from the sand, with an intense blue color due to the minerals presence. The show certainly deserves a stop to take some photos, even if images hardly manage to exhibit the real beauty of these landscapes. That's why I try to impress them permanently in my mind. Going through a detour that straightly follows the course of a dried river, we arrive into some deep and beautiful gorges. The place is once again spectacular with so wild beauty that hardly we can admire on our mountains. At 18:15 we reach Honang, place of the third camp, located in a fairly broad gorge, with a steep wall on one hand and much less pronounced slope on the other. Like yesterday, even tonight, despite many black clouds, Eros and me will sleep outdoors. During the night light rain pours; it can't last (at least we hope) because in the desert rains only every three years! I put my head inside my sleeping bag and wait for it to stop. After very few minutes the rain ceases, it even has not time to wet us.

Thanks to the strong wind and the sand that penetrates everywhere, the stage of won't certainly be monotonous. Usual wake at 6:30 and, with the company of Eugenio and Eros, little excursion to the top of the gorge that we climb from the side where the wall is less steep, in order to admire sunrise from there. At 8:15, while our two drivers and guides are still loading baggages on off-roaders, we start to walk for the fourth stage which should lead us to Erg Admer, a completely sandy area with great dunes; we made it to unleash our legs after three days of crossing passed mainly sitting on off-roaders. The sky is clear and promises good weather. Once back on our vehicles, we start for today's tour. This morning we'll make a stop near a well to refresh and supply some water; despite the outside heat (about 40°C) water, which lies in the depth, is very fresh and it's really a true pleasure to feel it flowing on skin. The Touaregs drink it as it comes out, it must be a true delight as fresh, but we do not trust them, we must first purify it and accordingly to this operation we'll drink it once hot... A real sin! After the stop we cross a huge sandy plateau at about 1100 meters of altitude above the sea level. It is completely flat and only sometimes we can see some height to the horizon. However it is mainly flat and we enjoy the same view from all sides. The Touaregs eventually able to navigate also in a landscape of this gender, without points of reference if not the position of the sun in the sky. Then wind began to raise, even if in this place it seems to be always present. Despite the closed windows, the sand began to be felt and to penetrate everywhere. Fortunately we are all equipped with "shèsh" and glasses, which allow us to completely protect our face. Even during the stop for lunch the wind doesn't slow, indeed, seems to increase its force. We repair behind a small dune taking a cloth between our two jeeps to create a minimum of shade. We are totally wrapped up in the swirl of this storm of sand when soon we realize that our "shield" is useless: the sand penetrates from every part: in the neck, mouth, eyes, etc.. We continue with a wind that has no intention to decrease in intensity. As we arrive near the dunes, we have unfortunately to go back to place the camp. Here the landscape is spectacular, different from those encountered in recent days: My eyes can see dunes in every direction, as a sea of sand in storm where dunes make the part of the waves. When we start to climb, despite the lower gearshift, our off-road has troubles to advance and after several failed attempts we descend to continue on foot. Once on the top of the hill, the landscape is breathtaking: a sea made of dunes is lost on the horizon and seems to have no end, the beauty of the landscape make us even forget the persistence of the wind that blows continuously. Although blowing with slightly lower intensity, it lifts the sand getting it in every direction. We park the jeep in order to obtain a shelter in which we are going to repair, we can't place our tents because wind hinders our work, sotonight we'll be forced to sleep outdoor. Obviously even our dinner is conditioned by the environmental situation, as we can't light the fire. So no hot meal for us, we have to opt for a cold dinner with abundant sand. Despite the difficulties (to be honest quite bearable) none of us complains about the situation. Indeed, the morale is very high and we are all very fascinated from the landscape. The wind swept the sky that, as soon as sun is gone, appears particularly bright for the effect of millions of visible stars, shining with an intense light. No glow and no obstacle prevents us from the total vision of the vault of heaven and we would like that our eyes could impress in our mind this unique spectacle, in order not to forget it and to tell anyone once returned. Surely that was the sky that every astronomer dreams to see at least once in his life! Despite the sand even penetrated within our sleeping bags, we fall asleep very happy because in front of the natural magnificence of these places every hardship becomes nothing.

I wake up at 6:15. The wind is almost completely ceased but a thin layer of sand completely covers our sleeping bags. I get up and explore the dunes in the light of the rising sun: with the increase of light the color of sand assumes all the shades of gray, changing to the ocher when the sun is completely built. We are in a so much fascinating place that we are very sorry to leave, we would like to remain at least another few days. Unfortunately, we must leave for the last stage that will lead us to Djanet oasis. We'll descend on the opposite side of the dunes. At the base of them, where the ground is more compact and hard, we make a brief stop to inflate the off road tires that were partially deflated yesterday, in order to permit greater grip on the sand, for yesterday's climb. The operation is done with a pump similar to that used for the bicycle wheels. While our drivers inflate tires, we start to walk: we are in a vast plain, completely sandy and surrounded by dunes. We made a good stretch until the off-road reached us. Once on board we drive quickly (about 60 Km/h - 38 mi/h) thanks to the ground ideal conditions (flat and compact), and we rapidly reach the paved road that comes from the north and leads to Djanet. After few kilometers of asphalt road we abandon it again and, with a little detour on dirt track, we arrive in the Terarat area, famous for a particular Neolithic graffiti called "la vache que pleure" (the cow that cries). In this famous graffiti different cows are represented: one of these seems to get off a tear from an eye and this particular gave its name to the entire graffiti. The surrounding area is made of sand dunes and large monoliths that come ourt from them; it is on one of these that the famous cow is carved, probably becoming the most famous all over the Algerian Sahara. Once again on the road, we rapidly reach Djanet where we place at Teneré Hotel; here we can enjoy the pleasure of a shower that finally takes away all the sand accumulated on our skin during the crossing. Tomorrow we will start to visit the Tassili n'Ajjer, this time on foot, with the help of some donkeys for the luggage transport.

The Tassili n'Ajjer is one of the largest prehistoric rock art sites in the world, whose oldest works date back to more than 9000 years ago. The desire to visit it helps us to overcome the inconvenience of waking up at 5:00 to go, with a jeep, at Tafilatet (about 15 km from Djanet) that is the place of departure of our 5 days long trek on Tassili plateau. Here we are introduced to our new guide, Mohamed, accompanied from 6 donkeys (used for the transport of luggage) and their two young drivers, Mohamed Junior and Ibrahim. The initially flat trail gradually becomes steeper and, after about 1 hour of uphill running, we reach Tafetest, a large plateau surrounded by vertical stone walls. After having crossed the plateau we head forward into a canyon: with an ascent sweet at first and then very steep we arrive on Tassili plateau (about 1700 meters of height). In front of us opens a stony plain, whose view loses to the horizon and seems to be endless. We start to walk once into this lunar landscape that gradually changes appearance. After an hour of totally flat walk we enter into a real maze: This is an area of not very deep canyons in which, not knowing it, could be difficult to get out. Fortunately, our guide Mohamed seems to have a good familiarity of the area, infact we reach Tamrit at 13.30. This will be the location of our first camp at Tassili, characterized by beautiful vertical spires several tens of metres high. We stop for lunch until 15:30 and, after a 3 hours long trek, we arrive in the place where we can admire many more beautiful cave paintings and the thousand years old cypress trees valley with her enormous size plants. The plateau of Tassili is characterized by rocks eroded by the wind, that form many gorges where we can stand, so we won't place tents, instead we'll sleep on the sand under one of these rock shelters.

Today we move in Sefar area. We start at 8:00 and, after 4 hours of quiet travel, we reach the place where we'll place our camp. During the transfert we make many stops to visit some sites where interesting cave drawings are located, so the stage fortunately is not tiring. The Sefar area, characterized by rock formations that arise from beautiful dunes, is filled with paintings and is divided into "Sefar Blanc" and "Sefar Noir" zones. In the afternoon we visit the dark red coloured site. We pass again night outdoors, with the air that considerably cools during the night.

Without dismantling the camp, we start from it at 8:00, in order to visit the paintings that are contained in the near Tazarift Tin site. The resort, as well as for the beautiful cave drawings, worth a visit for his spectacular landscape, as well as most of the Tassili, to be true. A maze of towering pinnacles eroded by weather, placed behind the sand dunes created by wind. The weather is magnificent, the ocher color of the shiny sand melts into the reddish color of the rock pinnacles that stand out against the backdrop of an intense blue sky totally devoid of clouds. At 11:30 we return to the field that has to be dismantled, before moving in the afternoon in the area of In Etouame, including a visit to the "Sefar Noir" site. Finally left the beautiful area of Sefar (full of pinnacles), heading towards west, we cross an immense stony plateau of which we can't even see the end. The direction of our journey, approaching the next camp area, turns south and eventually the landscape changes again. We meet many other pinnacles, not beautiful as those of Sefar, but equally fascinating. During the journey we visit other rock drawing sites and finally, at 17:40, we are able to reach the desired camping site.

After the departure, which takes place at 8:00, the many spires regain a fascination similar to those they had in Sefar area. We enjoy their beauty for an hour again; then we return to the rocky plateau already visited few days ago. We cross it and, at 10:45, we reach Tamrit, going in the same point where we placed the camp for our first night on the Tassili. We stop in advance for lunch and then start at 14:00. We go out from the Tamrit zone and cross for the umpteenth time this plateau that seems to be endless. We begin to descent, following a different path and, at 17:00, we finally reach the Akba area where where we set the last camp of the vacation. That of today was a transfer stage, less interesting for cave drawings visited, but more attractive in terms of landscape. For our tents we chose a small round indentation surrounded by the usual limestone cliffs and very well sheltered from the winds. Eugenio, Eros and me won't miss this last opportunity for the ultimate round of explorations through the rocks surrounding our camp.

Unfortunately, today we will definitively leave the Tassili. We start at 8:00 to arrive in Tafilatet where, at 14:00, we'll have rendezvous with our jeeps for the return travel to Djanet. A hot sun accompanies us throughout the whole descent and, around noon, we arrive at the appointment place. Our water supply must not be wasted, as a valuable asset, especially in these places. So what remained in our tanks is now recovered from our escorts and put into a "jerba" (a traditional goat leather bag), in order to be left on place for future excursions. The scarce shade offered us from a little tree, shelters us from the sun rays and gives us a little relief. The wait for the off-roads extends beyond the established hours; we are continuously moving under the tree to follow the moving shadow and, soon, the water of our bottles ends. My dried mouth and the strong thirst caused by the heat of the place are finally stronger than our so far followed cautions, so I decide to drink the water taken out from the "jerba". Even after all, it contains the water of our tanks (which had been purified, although probably mixed with other). Finally, at about 15:30, we are able to see the much desired jeeps coming up to take us. Not without disappointment we diiscover that they forgotten our return travel! Once arrived at Djanet oasis we place our camping in the Zeriba central-hotel. Then, "sciorba" and cous cous-based dinner.

The term "Oasis" derives from the egyptian "waha" and means "station". It is, by definition, a limited extension of desert where, for the local outcropping of an underground water flap, appears vegetation, allowing soil coltivation and human settlement. The Djanet oasis, located in the southern Algeria, on the border with Libya, for dozens of yearshas been called the "pearl of the desert". It is placed hundreds of kilometers far from any other town, at about 1000 metres of height. Almost all the buildings there are placed on the ridge of a gorge, on Tassili buttresses. The plain below, because fertile, is almost exclusively used for crops. Its origins are lost in the mists of time; its known history dates back to the end of '800, the colonial wars period. Its strategic position at the entrance of the Tassili chain, made it a coveted prey for the French invaders. In the upper part the town is still visible Fort Chalet, which takes its name from a French skipper and once was used to house the Foreign Legion soldiers.
We dedicate the morning to both Djanet visit and shopping. In the afternoon, with a jeep, we return in the Erg Admer area, hoping to be able to admire the dunes at sunset without the strong wind that we met the night that we passed there. After a stretch of paved road, we follow a track that crosses the desert and arrives in the dunes area. It's astonishing to note how the wind models these huge piles of sand with sinuous and sensual forms. Once parked the off-road behind them, we climb a ridge on foot and finally reach the top of a dune. From here the view is wonderful. At 360° degrees we only see sand up on the horizon; the dunes one after another, with sweet undulations, seem to invite us to follow them in order to find out what hides behind. Unfortunately the time passes quickly and, after many pictures taken, comes the sunset and we are forced to return in Djanet. This is the last evening we'll pass in contact with the desert, because tomorrow we'll reach Algiers. We have dinner with "sciorba", roast dromedary meat and chips.

Last greeting to Djanet before we embark on an internal flight (Air Algerie) that after a stopover in Ouargla, must bring us in Algiers. Instead of Ouargla we land in Ghardaia, about 200 kms further west. We are informed that there is a sandstorm that doesn't allow landing in Ouargla, so remains us only to wait until the end of the storm. We remain blocked on the ground from 10:00 to 14:00, after which we start again to arrive in Algiers at 17:30, with about 3 hours of delay. After the accommodation at the airport hotel, with the help of two taxis, we visit the city. Algiers lies on some hills that descend towards the sea, surrounding a large open bay on the Mediterranean sea. On a spur, overlooking the bay, there's the old Arab city (casbah), while around the port there are the new neighborhoods built by French. On the top of the hill the "Monument to the Martyrs" dominates the entire city: this is an ugly work of immense proportions, dedicated to those who died during the independence war (from France), inaugurated in 1982 to celebrate the twentieth anniversary of the liberation. In the town there is no trace of tourists, we are probably the only one and we are watched by the local people as a real rarity. The visit ends with a dinner in a restaurant on the seafront. Even here we are the only Europeans and we are treated with great courtesy by the owner. Even the food is excellent, though perhaps a little 'spicy.

This is the day of the comeback in Italy. Once in Rome we greet Annamaria that leaves us because arrived at her destination. We also greet Eros that has got to board for Milan while Marina, Eugenio and me will wait the plane for Turin.

Conclusions:
Having to give an opinion about our journey, convinced even to meet the thought of my comrades, I can say that it has largely met our expectations. All the programmed itinerary took place as normal. We have been able to appreciate the charm of an unspoiled wilderness and (nowadays increasingly difficult to meet) fully enjoy a total immersion in the Touareg culture, which enabled us to move closer to an (at least for me) unknown world. I must admit, however, that the excellent success of this trip was largely due to my companions: their wide availability enabled our small group such an affection that usually happens only between old friends. In Rome we greeted respectively with the intention of meeting ourselves as soon as possible or, why not, to organize even another trip together, perhaps again in the desert.

Travel Companions (in alphabetical order)

Annamaria - Rome
Bruno - Germagnano (Turin)
Eros - Ponte San Pietro (Bergamo)
Eugenio - La Cassa (Turin)
Marina - Chieri (Turin)