Eighteen days around Egypt.

the endorsement from egypt
laura giampaolo matteo (14) e carlotta (13) grignan

backpackers fra
templi, city, historical monuments, pyramid, nilo and oasis
mosque minaret and muezzin.
pace, caos, dirt, lights, sounds
poverty, pomp, solitude, immenso
silence and noise
children, garbage, asini, camels, cats
tramonti, starry sky, drivers folli
dear persons and sellers nightmare
hallo my friend!
egypt is tutto questo
condo with a good to the mint
and the smoke of obfuscating narghile!
but most of all: no problem, egypt will solve everything!

 

(Szilvásvárad - Budapest)

In a cold evening of December starting from home by bus with destination Budapest. At 23:10 we have our. direct flight to Cairo. This year nothing transference expectations and endless airport stopover. Moreover, the ns. holiday in Egypt will last only 18 days. The direction of our school. children this time there has denied permission for the usual 31-35 days of vacation. SIN!
The plane is punctual!

(Budapest - The Cairo)

At about three in the morning while the plane is flying over Alexandria, Carlotta alarm me, saying: "Mummy, have you heard? The pilot reported that non-landed in Cairo but in another place. " I will send to this country and I sleep. After a while though, I wake up and look unbelieving your computer monitor on-board that clearly indicates that the air goes in the opposite direction. WHAT'S THE PROBLEM? Fog in Cairo. Unable to land. It goes to Cyprus!
Cyprus? Why not land in Alexandria or Sharm?
Some passengers also who do not understand English well, nor Hungarian, when landed in Cyprus think they arrived in Cairo! Sorpresaaaa!
At 5:15 in the morning (we should already be in a hotel in Cairo), we are still at the bar at the airport of Larnaca.
We made friends with a family that comes from Sweden (her Egyptian and Swedish him with two children) and we have also invited to their house when we move to Alexandria. Nobody knows yet because we are down to Cyprus or to share that now. The only thing we know with certainty is that only ns. plane landed here. Matthew is a local specialty food bought at the bar of the airport (which still did not know how dear !!!). At 6:00 (7:00 local) we transfer by bus to a hotel located just 30 km. airport. It returns at 16:00. In the face of the direct flight (3 hours and twenty at the most!).
So we lose one of our day. program (which will later be recovered), in addition to the night in a hotel in Cairo (already booked and paid in advance)! Moreover, the excuse of the fog begins to arouse suspicion.
In any case we are on vacation! Let's enjoy Cyprus. But the landscape is not much out of. We do not know if the other side's is better but what we see in these 30 km. is a rather bleak landscape. Arid land, small rocky hills, black sand beaches. Unaware that Cyprus was driving on the left.
When we arrive at the breakfast offer. The hotel is also pretty, with swimming pool, private beach and a terrace restaurant with sea view. The only sore point is that we should not be here, but in Cairo.
Giampaolo and I try to make a nap on the beds of the pool, but the wind gets up a cold. Then we make two steps on the beach. There is no wind, so we decide to make an dormitina by the sea ... but we attack the flies! So we end up with the rest to go in the room. At 11:30 that we wake up communicating to 12:00 lunch and at 13:00 there is a bus to the airport.
Paying the extra to the hotel (and thus into close contact with the local currency), we realize that the bar at the airport of Larnaca, this morning, two for tea, a beer, a local sandwich and a glass of milk, we have spent over 33 euro! (thanks to that we had no ... hunger).
The ns. "Friend" Omar (one of Cairo through which I booked via internet, the hotel in Cairo and with whom we had an appointment this morning for the delivery of train tickets to Aswan after tomorrow) has given us a text message letting that the ns. flight arrives in Cairo at 15:00. One of our visitors. group heard the news I asked if they are also able to tell him what is the terminal of arrival and the number of the Gate ....? We genuinely strange people around ....!
At 14:00 the aircraft started to roll on the runway of Larnaca. Will our will. heroes time to reach Cairo? Siiii! At 15:00 landed in Cairo with only 11 hours and a half late.

The Cairo

We do visas, get a little bit of money at ATMs and then we head to the exit. While men go to toilet, Carlotta and myself trying to find a taxi (the proposed transfer of the internet so I wanted to ... declined 25 usd!). (NDR: It's strange how the travel agencies in Egypt. With regard to the agency by spending much less, while the other is exactly the opposite ....)
It is just one or, better, now we found him: 60 Pounds (10 usd). Do not treat. (although the return will pay only 50 ...).
Cosmopolitan Hotel is beautiful! In the center of Cairo, but placed on a horizontal rather quiet. The atmosphere of the Cosmopolitan is colonial, elegant, art deco. Posiamo backpacks and leave immediately to explore the city! The city of Cairo, with about 18 million inhabitants, it is pure chaos ... Thousands of people in the streets. Cars that are sounding the horn all'impazzata, traffic indisciplinatissimo. Even crossing the street poses some problems.
That even at traffic lights, a boy says of the place - when he nearly hit by a car finish while shouting the semaphore is GREEN! - Have been installed as the Christmas decorations!
At 19:00 we stop in Via Alfy (a pedestrian street of the center) in un'Aiwa - Egyptian typical coffee - at the fumarci sheesh (Narghile) and bercé tea with mint. Cairo is special. Muslim women here have their heads covered (not all but most), some have only their eyes out or even those, the most part instead of port scarf. What you skip the eye is that the Muslim youth, although the scarf covering her head, wearing tight jeans or skirts fashionable stretch. Sit at the bar, even among women, the Narghile smoke. This village in the Egyptian never actually see more.
Since the restaurant chosen (Abu As Sid in Zamalek) when we tried to call from the hotel, everything was full, we will seek a place here in the center where dinner tonight, at random. Then we go to see the belly dancing at the Palmyra (Egyptian Club not for tourists ... ahi ahi ahi ahi!). The choice of the restaurant lies on a local one but the many barbecue and various poultry exhibited promise very well! Excellent dinner! They eat virtually all specialties in a single stroke: The hamam (pigeon stuffed with rice) was fabulous, as well as shish kebab (skewer of grilled chicken) and Fuul the chickpea sauce and comino that will be with us for the entire trip!
22:00 sufficiently tired us all in a room next to Palmyra to drink a beer (because we wanted ... we dined with water) and wait for the start of the show that will be, unfortunately, only until 23:30. We could even go to sleep but the Tour Operator (ie myself) is Bad, and must at all costs to recover the lost day in Cyprus! Giampaolo has also given me a roses and Ms of the premises (without veils) we will have already changed the ashtrays 10 times. The service is 5 stars .... No toilets!
To pass the time we have a tour of the old neighborhoods, the shops are open till 23:00, and our mission. first purchases in Egypt: two pairs of Puma shoes (PUMA?) for Matthew and Charlotte.
To 23:30 (only foreign but also clients only ever) sit at a table of Palmyra awaiting the show. A cat s'infila in the drum major of the battery (who knows when that will start to play?). After ten minutes the music starts. There is also a singer (a real torment ... worse than the litany sung by church choirs Stone). The cat, the third touch of the battery, shelled out like lightning.
After a couple of songs trail and / or howl, comes the belly dancer.
Well .... from there onwards, we have struggled to hold back laughter. The dancer was a real pain, jumping ... beat the bacon to the right and left, sometimes stopped, looked around and chat with the singer (SINGER?) Walked the runway .. At midnight, by mutual agreement, we decide to all go to bed! Tomorrow we expect the Egyptian Museum (which was scheduled today), and a visit to Coptic Cairo. What was planned for tomorrow (Giza and Saqqara Dashur) we will do the first of the year!
Return to the hotel where everything is overly dark, a door. Almost scares us. ... .. Energy saving? .... Curfew? .... Anti-terrorism? None of this, they are just changing a light bulb at the reception. NO PROBLEM!

(The Cairo)

Alarm early, because Omar is at 8:00 (that's what we should deliver the tickets to this evening to Aswan). I try to ask the reception whether I can book two rooms for 29 and 31 December and the cost (still unbelieving that the agency sells to me the least). But the answer is 66 usd per room usd against 56's! So when Omar comes to announce that we are also rooms for 29 and 31). It teaches us that the New Year's Eve dinner is required. So much the better because we did not know what else to do. There's also belly dancing? BELLO! ... Just that it is better than last night (but it takes a little).
8:30 breakfast. Matthew also fall and Carlotta. We have already closed all the baggage, but teaches us that, given that the other night we did not use the rooms, we can keep up to tonight, the departure of the train. SUKRAN!
After breakfast we head directly to the Egyptian Museum, which is located five minutes walk. Assume a rather long tail in ten minutes (including police checks at the various checkpoints) are already inside. We read in the Lonely Planet that the students make a 50% discount on all entrances to sites and museums, but must submit an international student card, which we for our children, we failed to do. In any case we feel .... Ticket and pull the cards' Hungarian '. Accepted. Well. At least a little bit of savings ... (NDR: given that throughout the trip we spent over 500 euro for the various entrances to museums and sites!)
The Egyptian Museum is wonderful. Not so much the museum, which is a bit decadent, but the exhibits it contains. Since we have limited time, we follow the advice of Lonely Planet and we only visit certain rooms. The lobby, the halls of the kingdom, the hall of Amarna (Pharaoh Akhenaten by features completely different from other pharaohs), the galleries of Tutankhamen, the hall of mummies of animals, the hall of ancient jewels and the room of the royal mummies . What is striking in the history of ancient Egypt is also the fine arts. The jewelry for example: it seems that the jewelry displayed in jewelry best of our time is not simply imitations of pharaonic models (and not so successful). What about the sandals of infradito Tuthankamon? His collection of silk panties? And his throne with the beautiful image of his wife while the spread scented ointments? The hall of treasures found in the tomb of Tuthankamon is amazing.
The actual hall of Mummies, in which (apart from the presence of a Japanese girl who jumped and screamed as un'ossessa) in absolute silence and dim light, almost relive the atmosphere of the funeral. The mummies of Ramesse II and his father shet I are best preserved, but others are not as well. New Kingdom (già.. Just 3200 years ago!). Meditate gente, meditate ... why not me sorry (they are a collector of many things) the idea to be able to lead, after death, everything in the tomb - including my cat! What is not very inspiring to me are the alabaster containers of the bowels ....!
Just outside the Egyptian Museum we discover we have lost the hall of the carriages gold Tutankhamen that ns. children have visited while we were taken by different jewels and jewelry. Let's take a quick stroll along the Nile, then try the Arabesque restaurant for refreshment. Eat well. We carry an infinite number of dishes with sauce, wrapped in vine leaves, triangles of puff pastry, stuffed with goat cheese (wonderful) and many other things. Eat the seconds, watered by a great red wine of Egypt, and so we are beautiful satolli the subway station! Coptic Cairo direction.
- The rest do not think!
- The teeth continue forward and clasp!
- Of course ... we become educated.
(comment by Gianpaolo)
Coptic Cairo is a huge construction site.
Visit the Suspended Church and Santa Barbara. Then do a walk around this historic district, very "Egyptian" or better, very "third world". Garbage everywhere. Cats donkeys and chickens that spiluccano in the waste line at dell'aviaria. Children barefoot, dirty and poorly dressed you run around asking money.


BODYWORK THE COPTIC CAIRO

Carrozzieri mechanical and improvised on the streets. We shall in the Orthodox cemetery, where the guardians and custodians do not you ask for a tip (baksheehs). Today we have well and we have so many notes of small denominations. Cross the graveyard emerge to the synagogue, which unfortunately is already closed. Quickly visit the Church of St. George and then through the center of the neighborhood to go to un'occhiatina the Nile! The central streets are chaotic and dirty. Streams of people, women and children. Men sitting across the bar to smoke sheesh, and even sheep and goats, even a crude whole and accompanied by the pastor of the day!
Return (always by subway very modern and clean) to ns. Hotel at 18:00. Shower and departure for the station. We are taking Omar (that's) so he takes us into the station, but practically takes us up above the train! Of these brave Gat Tours: precise, honest and kind. At 20:30 sleeper train to Aswan part. The train is modern (type trains feared Vietnam or Sri Lanka worst kind). The bins are two beds, sink and all the comforts. Dinner will be served in your room (not bad). The accompany with a good bottle of red wine (Omar Kaggham)! Then we go in the wagon bar for a drink. The service is excellent! In fact to Achmet, the controller ns. wagon, we decided to leave a Macia (the first that there will be explicitly required). We can sleep tonight, finally!

(Aswan)

I wake up at 7:00 watching from the window and discover that we are still at Esna .. Wow, I think, from Aswan to Esna boat uses 3 days .... And in the train only 3 hours ... .. The train, in all cases, is two and a half hours. We go to a bar to take the. The train makes a sudden braking and the let me down on him completely! The waiter apologized immediately (as if he was poor ..) but it is not over, it also raises another customer of the bar, comes to us and tells me. I am Egyptian, I am very sorry for what happened and I apologize to you ... CARINO. Think if the airports, at a strike, our. citizens should feel obliged to apologize personally with disruption of foreign tourists!
The images that you have the window of the train, in the Esna-Aswan, are beautiful desert landscapes, on the right side, and picturesque views of the Nile, on the left side. It also fields teeming with peasants in the back of mules and horses. It seems the video game "Pharaon" of our children! Camels have been seen only three in number. The entry appears in Aswan relaxing streets adorned with flowers and much green.
10:30 you enter the station. Descending from the train we are attacked by procurers of business fall to bullet time and advantage. For several reasons: first because we have already lost half the morning for being late and not have much time to waste, according to last night because a hotel is as good as other data that we need only a few hours (the train for the excursion to Abu Simbel part around 3:30 at night ...) We bring to Memmon that the Lonely Planet lists among those who had already thought of going to see. The entrance is punishment, especially the access road, but the rooms are quite acceptable (of course we are speaking of rooms from 6 / 7 euro). The view on the elephant and the Nile, goatskin, it is excellent!
OK. Posiamo backpacks and organize the tour tomorrow in Abu Simbel. After a "serious" negotiation to give us a minibus that will take us tomorrow at 3:30 and we go back to 15:00, including stops at the Great Dam, the island of Phil, and all'Obelisco unfinished. It pays all strictly "in advance" and then you start to see Aswan. We have already lost half a day. Due to the off track, we renounce to rent bicycles as planned and, to a little laziness, a little choreography for the replace with a horse. But fate will "punish". After about quarter of an hour, in fact (but thank goodness it did not happen anything serious), would be an accident caused by the rupture of the left front wheel, and Giampaolo precipitates from horse in the middle of the road dented from head to foot. But we were lucky because it could break the neck. After the first moments of panic starts the local folklore .. All willing to help, all agitatissimi, lead us in a pharmacy (see the case right there in front). Medical pharmacist carefully Giampaolo various wounds and in the meantime the police arrived. Confusion brutish. The guy says the horse that if we denounce the fact to the police to withdraw the license .. those police who do not speak a word of English ... we who are already quite agitated by what has just happened ... In the end, because it is way better than how it could go, do not have any interest in making any complaint. To which, the coachman offers to pay the pharmacy and we think that maybe it's his way of thanking you for not complaining ... .. then (after she refused his offer to back with the same horse which had reinstated the front wheel brrr ...) take a taxi all along that, for the misery, to take two or three hundred meters asks us almost 30 pounds. It is not over! The guy who dl horse followed us up to the claim also to be paid: ".. you know, to feed the camel." That go to that country he, and the camel driver (which do, and just 10 pounds). Go up in the room. Drink something to calm the nerves and then again the visit of Aswan ... this time quite a FOOT! It was decided to go and eat at the Casa Nubian, on them. Free transportation and no discussions. Although there is always someone there ready to offer something insistently and ever! Arriva also the offer of 20 euros for a ride in Feluca that there seems a little 'too. The view is splendid. We are right in front of the Old Catarcat (dove.. Botta of madness ... we go to sleep tomorrow night but Giampaolo does not know, it's a surprise). At the restaurant we eat incredibly well, even though the portions are, as usual, too abundant. When we go out there is still a tireless salesman turns into a 20 euro Feluca ignore that, because the restaurant takes us for free with his boat all'isola elephant.
There c'incamminiamo through the narrow streets of the village Nubian Language (dilapidated). Giampaolo limping but, all things, endures well. We visit a Nubian house, the old village, shoot the few houses decorated in style nubian language, inserted in a context of rubble and dirt. We offer tea, indicating that it is not done with the water of the Nile. (perché. ... they usually train with the water of the Nile?). Swarms of kids behind us asked us money, pens, etc.. The money we give them willingly to a lady who held a small museum of stuffed animals in the area (the Animalia), shows the house built in pure nubian language style. Not used furniture, only masonry structures and many rugs and mats in the palm. The ceilings are domed with slits to illuminate the interior without heating the environment too.
Towards sunset c'incamminiamo towards the ferry pier, but between lanes, alleys, sewers, goats, donkeys and dirt, we do not know well where to go. We follow two tourists who seem to know (the only two tourists encountered on the island). Between fields and roads arrive at the Oberoi. Entered service: in front of them, right behind us. Probably they sleep here? No! We argue that using private ferry. It's free and you must not discuss with anyone. Come to ns. hotel, the show teaches us to lights and sounds of the island that Phil fortunatissima combination for tonight is in Italian! With a taxi, pre-paid the hotel, we arrived at the ticket office. We announce that the show do so only for a minimum of five people so we advise to wait for other tourists arrive. Expect. At best buy five tickets instead of 4 ... not! But at the moment a small group of Italian tourists. With a motor boat we head to the island of Phil that, beautifully lit, closer gives us wonderful images.
Among the Italians someone asks us what "boat" we are!
(NDR: ... and already! This is why there are no tourists around: they are all on the cruise!) We say that we are traveling to Egypt with backpacks on their shoulders .... To which we called "casual tourists "! The show has lights and sounds very good. The first part is traveling through the temple of Isis. The last part alternates between the temple of Isis, to Hator and the kiosk of Trajan. A voice tells the story of these gods and their temples. In return, the boat is fairly cold, but survive. In Aswan we go to dinner all'Aswan Moon, a barge floating around in front of the ns. hotel. Nothing special

(Aswan - Abu Simbel - Aswan)

At 3:30 there's a minibus booked into a hotel yesterday. There are also the "basket of breakfast! Sandwich, cheese, jam. This is the typical breakfast that, apart from the hotels of three stars or more, there will be reserved for the ns. permanenza Egyptian! At 3:40 we are already lined up to await the formation of the convoy. Initially there are only three minibuses, but around 4:00 arrive dozens of buses, coaches, buses. Certain that if the police convoys have organized anti-terrorist purposes is not very logical: in this way, hundreds of tourists concentrate all together and if they were an attack now would be ... a massacre!
At four and something is part and departure is from the Grand Prix. All trying to win the pool position and surpass it by right or left, indifferently. Are all as desperate and the safety distances are non-existent. The rest of my family sleeps. I will stress to me until the arrival at Abu Simbel. Thank goodness that at least on our minibus "Schumacher" you can smoke (in Egypt in all cases people smoke everywhere). At 7:00 we are already at Abu Simbel and the sun has risen from a few minutes. It's cold and not enough Golfino! We sit down for a moment (the sun) in a bar, with views of Lake Nasser, drinking hot tea.
We ask for the mint (mint) bring us the "Milk" ... We then share a beautiful design of leaves of mint, and so understand.
This for us is the first real archaeological site we visit in Egypt, apart from Phil that we saw last night at the play "lights and sounds." For a couple of hours wandering among the beautiful and colossal temples of Ramesse II and Hator. Truly impressive, carved into the rock, overlooking the Lake Nasser. Built 3250 years ago, the temple of Ramesse has an entrance guarded by four huge statues overlooking the Nile and seem to be there to remember his strength and his power. We take at least one roll of slides. Inside the temples known recordings with different dates (1830 to 1920) and names, mostly foreigners. There are also Italian. I try to ask the custodians (as tourist guides, but those groups do not see it). "What is this?" ... One answer me .. "What is? .... ahhh ... WHATER? You want water? "Let us lose. Then ask ...
(NDR: There will be later explained that the signatures or the first explorers of the last century or the first tourists who have ventured into Egypt, but I do not know for sure)
After the visit, and be drunk after another to the mint, we are approaching the convoy. Now it's very hot and you're fine even with the short sleeves. Hours 10:15 a.m. the convoy and the stress again! The ns. "Schumi" to respect the safety distances but does not last for long! A few minutes later, in fact, it starts again in pursuit of another minibus which in turn chases him and surpass each other, you bring in the wake of large buses with distances of 40 cm at the most!
The landscape along the route is very beautiful. This morning it was dark and unfortunately we have not seen anything. There are stretches of sand, hills, rocky spikes that emerge from the desert floor plan and is also a lagoon. It seems like a mirage! Indeed, after ten minutes we see that it is all right in illusions .... At 11:45, can not resist more stress and explodes with a series of abuse (the few that I know in English) to our "Schumacher" that has started to do the races with another minibus. Stop now and then (as they call him on the phone probably for why he stopped racing) there confesses that he is "THE BEST" ....! And not only that we confess ... we discover that is the same driver yesterday that after the incident with the horse has brought us to the hotel ...
We should not laugh ... we will have made the case (also because yesterday we were a little in shock), but if he has done to us ... well, then surely you are not surprised of my loss of patience since I already knew!
We continue, relatively quiet, until the Great Dam, which was exactly my age. Nothing exceptional. Then we move to the island of Phil. By day the effect coming by boat is not the same as that evening but it is very beautiful. After yet another discussion on the amount payable by boat (40 pounds instead of 24) landed at Pier Phil.
Even here there is always something ... to pay a pound to the right, one left ... I gladly pay the baksheesh (tip) at a guard who opens the gate of Nilometro. Descend. Along the walls are carved the different scales of measurement according to the time of use: the Egyptian and Roman! We do some photography for the two times and the kiosk of Trajan. This complex of temples has been moved dall'originaria island of Phil of the current Agilkia between the'50s and'60s thanks to a colossal undertaking rescue conducted by UNESCO. Otherwise, the temples of Phil, after the construction of the Great Dam, would be sunk in the Nile. Many other times, in fact, still lie beneath the waters of the Nile. After visiting our reach. Schumi awaiting us. The last step is all'obelisco unfinished. A disappointment ... .. Maybe we were wrong to Aswan obelisk because I read that there are 2 ...!

Aswan

Who knows ... in any case we are tired and so we call on Schumacher to move into a hotel to pick up your bags because we change and accommodation (for official version Giampaolo) try another hotel a little better. ... Load your luggage and, secretly, I say to Schumi to bring him to Old Cataract ... I said "sure", I reply "but is silent ...." Giampaolo asks ... "what hotel are we going?" Matthew laughs, Carlotta also, I prevaricating ...
We arrive at the entrance of Cataract and Schumacher asks me again "But it is certain that come here ?!".. Well, some will think they are crazy .... Yesterday they did a scene for two euros more of Taxi, have slept last night in a hotel for seven dollars per room ... now go Cataract? But it is useless to explain ... do not understand. Meanwhile, at the Cataract, before you enter the ns. minibus guards want to know what nationality we are!
Giampaolo meanwhile observes: "But this is the Old Cataract." All laugh.
We enter in with the backpacks at the shoulder of the most beautiful in Egypt ...
The lobby is beautiful. We welcome Mary, public relations, which, after giving us a welcome drink, we shall not only that we have allocated a room overlooking the Nile for our children, but we have reserved a two bedroom deluxe with Nile view and ... ... of Sofitel complimentary!
Sukran ... (maybe the first customers in the shoulder backpacks are a special treatment). Huaoo .. the ns. chamber is at least 50 square meters .... With high ceilings, antique furniture, carpets, huge bathroom, all services, and large basket of fruit. If you think for our room when we spend 132 euros a month and a half ago in Zagreb in a low three stars, we spent 90 euros ... no comparison!
Are 16.00 and Giampaolo and I will send it to the bar in the garden with a beautiful view of the elephant a good bercé a good bottle of wine (rosé) ... it was time, after two days of water! Our children, though, a nice relaxing bath (Matthew in our room and Carlotta in them). There is also a swimming pool but we do not believe the case to try it ... at this time is already cold.
We enjoy the sunset and then return to your room. We're tired .... But the tour operator (or myself) does not compromise, we must go to visit the Museum nubian language (both are near them)! The Nubian Language Museum is managed very well. The explanations are clear and in several languages.
At the Museum men fall in a hotel while Charlotte and I go to obtain supplies for the next few days of cruising. The organization of the Royal Cleopatra has told us that everything is included in the price except the alcohol that in any case are not sold on board. If we want to drink the wine we have to us! We go to an address found on the Lonely Planet for a Duty Free and since it is not even very far away, we go on foot. Buy beer, bottles of wine, whiskey, biscuits and snacks. Then slowly we reboot to the hotel with our heavy load. Destroyed arrive! And ... strange thing, no taxi, horse or other he stopped to offer their services. One can see that with all the shopping bags, we have exchanged for local road ... To buy two cartons of cigarettes to little more than half a euro a packet.
The evening dinner at the hotel. The restaurant is beautiful and perfectly restored, relive the colonial era. The domed ceiling is at least ten meters high. Dinner by candlelight served with various musical genres, the blues dall'arpa American. Needless to say that the service is impeccable. Around 23:00 we went to bed!

(Nile cruise starting: Aswan - Kom Ombo)

Last night we went to bed so tired that I do not even remember that they went to bed, so that this morning at 7:00, when I woke up, I spent at least 5 minutes to realize where I was! At 8:00 we un'abbondantissima breakfast and then we go by taxi in Suk, that we have not yet seen, if not part of that famous morning ride in a horse ...
In Suk not buy almost anything because the prices are really exaggerated. Only 3 Nubian hats and shirts for Carlotta, but the trading is so exhausting that at the end we decide to stop buying ... except for a pair of shoes for Giampaolo, which they say strangely leaving only 3 euros. 11:00 we are to take those, through whom we booked the Royal Cleopatra, our private Dahabiyya that will take us on a cruise on the Nile for three days. Matthew realizes that he lost the bag containing his digital camera, the headset of the phone the sunglasses and stand ... probably left him on the minibus for the trip yesterday. BELLO! Let us go away for a moment yesterday where the owner very kindly trying to track down "Schumi" which is not detectable. We then leave a phone number to try again tonight, says if this causes them to deliver to Luxor. We will see, in every way the most important thing was that the digital in all cases by two days did not work anymore.
At 11:30 we board. The Royal Cleopatra is a vessel 19 meters long, adapted to sailing ship with two tall trees, very very nice .... ... ... We show our two cabins with bathroom, living room and upper deck with tables, chairs, and large cuscinoni to earth in style Arabic. Tents colorful style of the Royal nubian language are a matchless Cleopatra. We have Captain Mustafa and ns. guide in English, Tarik presenting a strange hematoma on the forehead .... (NDR: only towards the end of our. holiday in Egypt we find that these marks identify those who have great faith because if we obtain beating his forehead on the ground in prayer!)
We also have a tug that in the absence of wind, there trolling. We are 4 and they are 10! We feel very billionaires even if in fact this "madness" will cost only twice as a normal cruising to three or four stars.
Discarding the baggage system, and then things go up on deck to drink an aperitif! It 'too romantic. Starting at 12:20 p.m. towed by tug! The day will be all shipping. 13:30: First lunch on the boat! Excellent! To 14:30 sail towed yet, because I start at a protest .... We have spent a mica folly to be dragged along the Nile by a tug even rumoroso ..? They tell me that there is no wind ... but it is not true, the wind is and how, maybe it's bad ... but I do all my comments, muttering .. perhaps tired at the end of my protest, arriving 3 ratings, melt the huge sails, detach from the tug and began to sail. Sailing? A disaster ... the boat goes from one side of the Nile to zig zag, with a maximum angle of 25 degrees for one hour in which we have not even 200 meters, also there on the bank loans twice and a third moments not banged against the rocks. Maybe you do not know why tow guide?
Then, while we enjoy playing dominoes, suddenly sails swell and the Royal Cleopatra begins to slide on the waters of the Nile lightweight and fast, like a sailing competition. Always a zig zag, because of the wind blowing in the opposite direction, but GREAT! We look around curious ... even the sailors are happy and smiling. Perhaps we are learning? But NO! It's captain to give directives. MUSTAFA Bravo ...
The boat does not go
if there is not Mustafa!
It sailed until sunset. It 'really beautiful, incredibly poetic and very relaxing. And then silence, the absolute, broken only by the sound of the wind against the sails flapping.
Mustafa is nubian language, lives on the elephant and is 24 years doing this work (by 6 years was captain of the Royal Cleopatra). He speaks English very well, is nice and has a good relationship with his men. At 17:00 we serve tea with cakes baked by ns. Abulele exceptional cook. The ns. guide can not be defined the framework for sympathy, but it is bearable.
Dinner is very good as lunch, except that we must consume it in the living room, on deck, because out in the evening cold. Abulele we prepare a creme caramel from haute cuisine.
After dinner the crew of the Royal Cleopatra, together with that of the tug lit bonfires on the beach and then invite us to smoke a Narghile. Che bello!
Playing dominoes with the ns. guide (I win). Then nanna.

(Kom Ombo temple - Selsila)

To the seven already on the bridge. All still asleep, even the sailors, the captain, the cook, the guide .... On the banks of the Nile there are many local walking, fishing and ... wash!
Indeed assists washing morning of a young islander who strips (still in pants), flows into the Nile, then pulls a bar of soap and began to lather from head to toe, are thrown back into the Nile, is to rinse benin then comes up, it dries , you put the clothes clean, and back where you came from. Was filmed. 8:00 am breakfast. After breakfast, Tarik, who finally can begin its work, we announced that the first thing we will do a walk sull'isoletta where we anchored and we will show some animals. Carlotta calls now 'Tigers? Lions? Crocodiles? ". None of that. We show dogs, donkeys, cows, ibis and a carp of about 15 kg. just caught by an islander. In return we are walking since yesterday afternoon we were sitting almost all day (not that we complain after the first three days of tour de force, but ...). After the short walk we travel by boat to the Temple of Kom Ombo. This temple, relatively young with only 2200 years, lies in a bend of the Nile where in ancient times was the crucible in the sun crocodiles. The reason for this temple was also dedicated to the God Salek (God Coccodrillo). It is a double temple, with a perfect twin. The other half was dedicated to the god Horoeris (Falco Elder God). There is also a wall with hieroglyphics which illustrate the practical medical and surgical instruments, very similar to those used today. But the most interesting are the reliefs and inscriptions dedicated to the birth. Calved women sitting on special seats from birth were born just as Matthew and Charlotte! Visit the hall of mummified crocodiles. Our guide was very prepared but it makes us laugh because if we distraiamo we resumed immediately and then starts sentences with "You see ....!" Or when there's something you can not see well, "Imagine ...". At the end of the tour we also questioned (?!?). This is the first time that a private cruise with a family (on the Royal Cleopatra indeed we are the first Italians), usually works on large cruise ships, especially for groups of trips Ventaglio. Heading in to 12:40 p.m. on ns. beautiful boat for lunch, we must admit, is always excellent. VIVA ABULELE. At 14:00 it began to sail. Today there is a good strong wind (always in the opposite direction but unfortunately Mustafa is exceptional).
There sdraiamo on cuscinoni to take the sun and we enjoy the poetic silence interrupted by the Nile creaking of the sails of tall trees. Carlotta take Arabic lessons from one of the sailors. Our guide went to sleep. We will see the time of the. Along the way today crossed many cruise ships. Many tourists there are also photographs (Charlotte a couple of times he puts too poses)! Become famous? At 16:00 in danger of colliding with a large cruise ship that, despite the reports and never mind the international laws of navigation for sailing surfers should always take precedence, does not move one inch of forcing ns. sailing (thank goodness there was Mustafa) at a sharp turn resulting in the grounding sandy shores of the Nile.
After the escaped danger, the crew breaks into a series of screams and insults (at least so we assume) to the commander of the ship, which responds with the same tone .. at the Carlotta unexpectedly, and with all the voice he has, it puts you to shout something that I myself do not understand .... That the lessons of Arabic this afternoon have already given the first fruits? But NO! It was a roar of bad words in Slovak learn in a short holiday last year. (AT LEAST WE HAVE NOT IDENTIFIED AS ITALIANS .. AH AH). At about 17:30 (after tea) come to the quarries of Selsila, where you can now already in the dark. Cocktails with Arabic music. Charlotte tries to teach me some moves of belly dancing it is a failure! She is very good. Berths on an atoll with a small beach suitable smoking after dinner sheesh! The view is amazing because these quarries are all beautifully illuminated. It's all very spectacular.
Abulele tonight we cooked a pasta oven stupenda! Then, after the ritual of smoke on the beach sheesh, a domino game and nanna!

(Selsila - Edfu)

7:00. Are on deck to enjoy the first light of dawn. This time I was armed with a camera in case there was a local that makes the bathroom .... But it is a tiny atoll and there is no one apart from us and our. crew. But all still sleeping (our guide does not talk ...). Today is the last day of sailing. Tonight dock around Edfu to visit tomorrow morning.
8:00 Even the eight? I'm a good bevendomi the. Here in Egypt the tea is good and think that is the Lipton, the one with the yellow package, but has nothing to do with what we buy in Europe. My family still do not see, meanwhile, have moved the boat all'attracco in the face of the quarries Selsila. Beside us is a sailing ship anchored similar to ours, the Simbad. Only a little bigger. In fact we are on board, eye, seven or eight people. Spontaneously waving my hand to greet, but I answered no. I probably do not have vision. After our luxurious breakfast on the deck landings to visit the cave of Selsila. Turning next to the Simbad say hello to a girl who looks at me. He turns the other side ... It will be well shy ... Then, when we go up to the entrance of the cave "simpatico" group of tourists in Simbad passes alongside and Giampaolo (which had lost earlier) greets them ... "Good morning "These are not only not worthy of response, but also run the other way. Evviva friendly! ... .. What makes a trip to some people?
We visit the cave of Selsila, with an adjoining temple. The quarries were Selsila for over two thousand years the main source of the blocks of sandstone for the construction of temples during the New Kingdom until the greek-roman period. The adjacent temple of Horemheb dates back to 1300 BC
11:00 si va buoyant (literally) ... The sun is hot and the wind is more lenient than yesterday.
At 12:30, after a wonderful sailing there is on a beautiful small atoll in the middle of the Nile, populated by a pair of donkeys and a cow grazing.
Che bello .. We have prepared a surprise.
The ns. Abulela super-chef is preparing a barbecue Luculliana! We help the crew to bring the sull'isolotto table, chairs, dishes and seize this opportunity to uncork a good bottle of rosé wine, beautiful frosted! We welcome visitors of the large cruise ships that pass in hand and do not envy them at all!
(NDR: Maybe they even envy us ... quien sabe?).
Today the Captain Mustafa eats with us. So chatted a bit. In mid-lunch start the roar of applause to an Abulele interspersed by shouts: "Abulele hip to hip .... Hurra! "-" Viva Abulele! "- Like a marriage ....
After abundant lunch accompanied by an excellent wine Egyptian who was obviously drunk only by Giampaolo and I (because they are Muslims and do not drink), dating on the Royal Cleopatra! Our guide will take the rest and this time do not meet again until dinner!
So much the better ... absolute rest and no classes in Egyptology which in effect after a bit, unless one is a scholar of the subject, they become a little heavy. Before leaving (this time sadly towed motor because the Nile here is quite tight and makes it difficult to ns. Zig zag gait, for the inevitable direction of the wind), we meet a handful of Spaniards. They, too, with a boat similar to ours, have been detained because their captain (do not believe it ... Mexican!) Is a friend of ours, Mustafa.
"Olá!" ... We are chatting and then - "Asta luego al '- is again .. 16:30 Carlotta takes his lessons of belly dance and after the, landed on a beautiful island around Edfu, given the huge sand dunes!
It is almost sunset and Carlotta and I run to run and slide down the dunes. Breathtaking. Today it is difficult to describe what was good but unfortunately is the last and we are thinking about as we leave tomorrow morning at the Royal Cleopatra.
After you return the boat Mustafa us with gifts. Four Egyptian tunics (galabiyya), which in my case and Charlotte also have beautiful embroidery (those women are called abeyya)! Advantage of this opportunity to leave a large tip to the captain and his crew: if it is deserved!
Game of dominoes with appetizer (we have to make out our stock of wine) and then dinner, this evening, succulent, and applauded for the last time ABULELE!
"For Abulele Hip Hip Hurrááá!"
After dinner, descend on the beach smoking sheesh and Carlotta and myself, because that is docked next to another boat similar to ours and since they are around the fire to sing us closer to understanding. But those around the fire are only those of the crew. We are told that the tourists are on the boat but if we can stop them with their ... recline the invitation kindly (I do not think the case ... ah ah) ..
Before going to bed to write the end of our long message on the guestbook (as the first customers is absolutely must!).

(Edfu - Esna - Luxor)

8:00 to move the Royal Cleopatra dall'isolotto where we stayed all'attracco main Edfu, where are all the other docked boats. Un'oscenità: practically a landfill. After kisses and hugs with Mustafa, Abulele, Mr. Kerozin (the person to poke the fire on the beach) and others, reluctantly leaving the Royal Cleopatra. The ns. Tarik guide instead will accompany us to Luxor, with a van, stopping to temples of Edfu and Esna to. Bypassing the trash, with ns. backpacks in the shoulder, up the platform and reach the road. Just one last farewell to the Royal Cleopatra, then with the van we head to the Temple of Horus at Edfu. This temple, dating back to 237 a.C. (only a little over 2200 years ....) has a structure very similar to Phil. The rooms however are very well preserved and in some parts also the colors! Even here there are the usual hammering that have destroyed many reliefs, partly imposed by successive pharaohs, in part by Christians. At 9:30 we are already out of the temple but the first convoy of police has already passed. The ns. driver Schumi II, however, obtained permission to pass, it runs in pursuit of the convoy at full speed, in fact in less than 40 minutes we are already at Esna.
The temple of Esna to Khun is splendid. We are, moreover, the only visitors since the first train does not stop at Esna and the second has not yet arrived. Also the greek-roman epoch, is dedicated to the god Khum (creator god from head to ram). Ipostila The hall has 24 columns that hold the roof virtually intact. And it is thanks to the presence of the roof that the colors of the reliefs were preserved perfectly, both on the ceiling and on columns. It's fantastic. There we meet after half an hour with our guide and, since the temple is located at the center of town to reach the car through the suk. We buy a scarf ... contracted contracted people! From 290 pounds initially requested, we will leave at 20 and I am also happy! We, too, so they buy two. We stop at a local kiosk for a drink and to mix, there is also our guide. Our the order in perfect Arabic. Those are kind of kiosk and bring us chairs, table, and we also offer cigarettes ... I wonder why not Tarik asked us if we wanted to go with him to take the? Perhaps he thought that there would never sit in a small kiosk Egyptian, a little dirty and full of flies? Perhaps it is too accustomed to the groups of cruise ships? Bah! Then we discover that the owner of the kiosk is also a relative of his wife. In fact, when we go there, it also offers cakes and pastries. At noon we are still at Esna waiting for the convoy to Luxor. Just arrives at 13:00 and we are the first, because our Schumi II has succeeded in putting behind the police car.
13:30 we're already in Luxor, where myself, with map in hand, leads the driver of Luxor and our tour guide (also in Luxor) booked the apartment through the Internet! They have no idea where it is ...? I would like to call us and we did speak with the owner ... are you mad? Rooming in? NEVER! I bring you: turn right, go forward 300 meters .... one might also ask, but in the meantime sighted the green building and acknowledge that the photo was on the Internet. 'It is the one! "I say. Their very incredulous stop, but they still ask. The house in all cases is the one. Ok thanks. We take my leave, not without a little discussion with the ns. leadership, which insists that we must give the driver a tip ... but why should I give a tip excuse, which made? The transport was part of the program of the Royal Cleopatra ... can understand if someone is nice or have extra things ... otherwise why? However in the end will give him something. At that point, however, Tarik approached my husband saying that he learned that the crew of the boat, we left a good tip, and then asked him why not?
And because we do not want a guide for tomorrow? ... But because we go by bike! Simple, no?
(NDR: perhaps we should explain that, Mustafa and his team, the tip we left happy because we were spoiled, they have always worked, from morning to night, have slept rough or on the deck, then certainly do not earn much ! When we first met Tarik, told us that he lives pretty well, even send their daughters to private schools. During three days of cruising has worked two or three hours a day, slept in a cabin with private bathroom, ate, drank and was served and revered even more than us).
In any case cut short, because we need him again tomorrow evening, because we have commissioned two sweaters for children (those with names written in hieroglyphic), in addition to book a taxi to take us between three days nell'oasi El Kharga ( well ... $ 100). We are not particularly convinced of this choice, but having read the Lonely Planet that the new road direct Kharga Luxor El-route is authorized only by taxi, we thought that they had no other option but to travel by bus via Asyut lasting 7 / 8 hours.

(Luxor)

To expect the apartment there is an elderly Egyptian gentleman who shows us all, then offers to go to buy water. Sukran. The building is owned by a couple (him and her Egyptian English) and, apart from the apartment where they live, there's three more, who rent. We have decided that a ground floor overlooking the garden with a swimming pool and a Jacuzzi (NDR: that does not use ever since the cold ...).
The house is located on the west bank of Luxor in the direction of the Valley of the Kings, a four hundred meters from the ferry pier. The apartment is huge. A huge well-furnished living room, three bedrooms, a large kitchen and bathroom. Very bright, it also has a large terrace with garden furniture. Only $ 40 per night: It's perfect! We do know Joe (the owners of the cat) that familiarises now. Posiamo baggage and we move towards the shores of the Nile to find a restaurant also because they are already 14:30! We rely on the Lonely Planet and we go to Tutankhamen! We find it hard to find because the map of the Lonely Planet returns in another position, so we rely on the kids that we are already on him for ten minutes: "Want to buy this?" - "Want Feluca?" - "Want to buy one? "-" You have feathers? "An indescribable stress!
The restaurant is run by a character who speaks perfect French, as in the'70s was the cook for a group of French archaeologists. He shows us his album with photographs and newspaper articles, then leave us a guestbook, so we let our. mark!
Italians there were enough and from what we read, almost all were part of "Adventures in the World." The restaurant has a splendid terrace from which you can see the temple of Luxor, on the other side. The evening should be beautiful. Just order grilled chicken and balls in tomato sauce, but together we receive dozens of other dishes and plates, including the cauliflower gratin truly noteworthy. So we make a meal COLOSSAL!
On the way back, having hired four beautiful bike for the next two days (at 2 euros a day), we stop in the shops to buy something for breakfast tomorrow morning: tea, coffee, eggs, milk, cheese, fruit and of canned sardines to Joe (the cat) ... but we do not find bread!. Procure him the guardian of our elderly. apartment after a tip! But this is very nice gentleman ... we also cleaned and prepared the cane ready to chew! Towards evening, we know the owner of the apartment and the daughter of 14 years. Her husband is an Egyptologist. The lady is jealous that your cat is with us ... but to be mad stuff! So let us not say that we bought sardines in oil (ah ah). Having discarded baggage and arranged things leave to go to dinner ... (and who is hungry?). Let the restaurant Africa. We are all agreed that you order two and eat in four! The restaurant is beautiful, distinctive and full of cats! Dozens of beautiful cats, but unfortunately very hungry ... One call Adolfo, because it has two black tablet on the sides of the nose that make it seem like the perfect portrait of Hitler. Tonight you can also order a bottle of wine! Hooray!

(Luxor - Karnak - Luxor)

At six o'clock in the morning, our children wake up and, silent silent, we prepare a beautiful breakfast in the living room. Matthew wears the galabiyya and replaces our well. Abulele! At 7:20 we are already in the street with our bikes and we head directly to the ferry to go on the east shore. Of course all help us load the bikes on the ferry so given a little bit of tipping! We are the only tourists on the ferry, among other chock full ... (peak time).
Dropped from the ferry we head towards Karnak (about 4 kilometers). Luxor seems a beautiful city, clean and orderly, with wide avenues and streets in order. Karnak is a spectacular complex of temples dedicated to three deities of Thebes (ancient name of Luxor): Amon, Mut and Konshu respectively god of the sun (the king of the gods), his wife and their son, the god of the moon.
It is a place of worship that is lost in the immense spaces.
We spend over two hours, including temples, chapels, garages for boats, walls, obelisks and columns especially! Just think that the great hall ipostila, built during the reign of shet I (3300 years ago!) Consists of no less than 134 columns!
We do a tour in the surroundings: the sacred lake and along the avenue flanked by sphinxes with ram's head that in ancient times, is connected to the temple of Luxor, along a path of more than three kilometers.
Today it is up to make a guide myself since there is no longer Tarik ... but sorry to anyone that much. At noon we return to the center of Luxor. We look at the museum of mummification. Fairly small but well-organized. Once the visit we go to eat AMON (to stay with the theme of ...). Struggling to find the way and end with a gentleman there by bike, NO PROBLEM, just a small tip.
Even if we eat something myself beginning to acknowledge a slight malaise. I turn my head .... After lunch we go to the temple of Luxor, also very attractive, albeit less attractive and kept worse than the complex of Karnak. Particular is the presence of a mosque inside, built in XIV century on the ruins of the temple, had not yet come to light. The Temple of Luxor we also chatting with a young manager of Cairo who speaks very good Italian. It is there in honeymoon and probably want to exchange a few words in Italian.
Once the visit to the temple of Luxor we are in the streets of the city and cross the Suk. The beauty of travel by bicycle is that you avoid the endless proposals for taxi, Feluca, ferry rides and any other kind of way! The central streets, including suk here in Luxor are not in such pitiful conditions Aswan. They are more orderly and cleaner. Find a sale of liquor where you buy a bottle of wisky "Jony Waleria" label Black imitated perfectly (hopefully it is perfectly imitated the content). Let us return then to check on the corniche an ATM (on the west side is not any) to withdraw cash from us in oasis!
(NDR: credit cards in Egypt, in practice, not used anywhere! For now we could use the restaurant Arabesque in Cairo and at Old Cataract!)
Return with the ferry on the west shore. I feel bad enough and are completely at 19:00 KO, so I decide to lie down. I also have a fever and chills. However the rest of my family decided that without me no one comes out, so organize something to eat at home. Tarik arrives at 21:00 to bring the pile (to thank that I was wrong because otherwise you will not find anyone at that ... usually we go to dinner) and take the money for the taxi the day after tomorrow. Then I go back to bed because I do not stand on their feet. Matteo Giampaolo Carlotta and instead finish the evening watching television. (horror ...!)

(Luxor - Kings' Valley)

At 7:30, after breakfast and sardines as the cat, the starting time of the Valley of the Kings! The first step is the colossus of Memmone, where hundreds of buses full of tourists are already in position. We do some photography then we start with our bicycles to the websites of the east side We stop at the ticket office to buy tickets for the sites that we previously planned to see (except for tickets to the Valley of the Kings and Queens, which Sales in place), then go ahead. First site to Merneptah, one of the sons of Ramesse II. The site is interesting for the museum located inside, but the museum is closed .... Then we visit the Ramesseum. Impressive, especially visited in the early morning when there's still no one around ... (or maybe there is never anyone?). Same for the temple of shet I, where the guardians seem happy to tear the tickets! (huaooo four tourists ...). After the temple of shet I (the father of Ramesse II), the wrong way and end up in the village of Gurn. Back (more kilometers) and begin the climb to the Valley of the Kings do not think it was an uphill climb so .... I have destroyed so that over half of the way I walk. She stops a taxi willing to load the bikes on the trunk and take us to the top ... but we tourists DIY tireless and integrity, refuse!
Valley of the Kings, after the tickets and left the bike at the parking lot, take an empty shuttle train carrying tourists for about 500 meters. We feel very ridiculous sitting on the train after all the facts km so far with the bike up (no mountain bike hai hai hai hai),! Valley of the Kings do not have many doubts about the choice of graves to visit because most are closed!
The tombs that we had chosen to visit the Ramesse II, as well shet I and that of Tutankhamen, unfortunately, are all closed today. Then we visit the graves of Ramesse IX, Ramesse III and Thutmosi III. Each grave has its own particularities, but you look much to the architectural style and arrangement of rooms. To Thutmosi III is certainly the most spectacular. There is accessed by a steep staircase clinging on the rock wall of a mountain and then back down within the rock, through a corridor decorated with reliefs. In the tombs, measurements were also perfectly preserved and the colors are these bright colors to give an unforgettable atmosphere at these places of burial. We make two steps among the rocks of the valley of the kings and then we head towards the parking lot. E 'late and we should certainly give up some site.

(Kings' Valley - Luxor)

The descent from the Valley of the Kings is beautiful! Now laugh and joke and down ... so we do not need to save your breath! Almost to 14:00 we stop in a small restaurant, located in front of the tombs of the Nobles, the first stage of the afternoon). Do not eat very well but there fun and, above all, we rest! They also have wine, is an event in Egypt because if you do not go in restaurants of a certain level is not specified or beer or wine! So we order a bottle of red wine (red) and of us ... the rosé rosé say no .. ... red and white leads in the end we choose the rosé. There is also the glasses, and there lay the bottle on the table, perfectly sealed. And as we open?
Mimiamo the call and the opening of the bottle. He says "ahh! Moment. " After ten minutes returned with a new parcel opener (it will be left to buy?) And begins to fumble on the cap. At the end of all sticks in the bottle opener that can no longer rely. Giampaolo offers to help him in ten seconds and opens it! Our waiter exults: "Very good, you are very professional!". For lack of time we eliminate from our program several things: the Valley of the Queens, the village of workers and Deir Al-Bahri, including a lack of forces that are still out evil! Start at 15:00 and we go to the tombs of Nobles. They are located in the middle of a village inhabited by local and choose to see that Ramos, a governor of the reign of Amenhotep III.
The measurements of the walls of the tomb paintings and beautiful retain the original colors. It 'really fascinating. Our children fall through the tunnel leading to the burial room, remained unfinished. Too steep and narrow for us, especially for me, now! Just outside the tomb, suffer the onslaught of hundreds of kids, unfortunately we have nothing to give him and we are sorry. We buy a couple of dolls wrapped in cloth and materials, but as souvenirs are much better than factory. Then we go away leaving the sadness and misery behind. Houses in ruins, rubbish, debris, barefoot children with dirty clothes. Matthew was very surprised because she studied in school that Egypt is not classified a third world country, but in some areas and in certain situations, the degree of misery seems even worse in certain areas of Asia such as Cambodia, visited last year. One wonders why, in a place such as Luxor, full of tourists all year round and entry tickets to the stars, can not find a way to make everyone live better.
The guardians of the temples, but also the police, to round off their miserable earnings are forced to ask for tips to tourists. Perhaps we should encourage more individual tourism, perhaps the big package tours do not bring the tourists here either to eat or sleep. A small part because some employers who have engaged in family-run restaurants and small pensions (unfortunately not very popular), others simply gain great alternative but to ask barkshees left and right or obtain customers for the other with constant paranoid at times. Perhaps, if the zone to accept more individual tourists, there would be more work for all, without which these poor people prostrate to the tourist at the begging, something that makes you pain, especially for children.
All right thinking but ....
Back to the bike and go to visit the museum that was closed this morning. After that we go to the Temple of Medina Hab! It is wonderful. As the Lonely Planet is a temple often not included in the programs of the big package tours, but is worth the trouble to view it. We have seen many sites but this, after Abu Simbel is one that affects us more.
The measurements are very deeply carved. The colors in some places, have remained perfectly intact as if the ages were not really gone. Then there is peace, there is almost none. Today Charlotte is a travel guide, Lonely Planet in hand imitates his mom ... When we stop in a bar there in front of a drink and the owner advised us to wait for the sunset light up the temple and the view is very beautiful. So expect. Indeed worth because the illumination of the temple is fantastic. Furthermore, we were just us and enjoy the quiet landscape. At 17:30 we take our bicycles and we reboot home. On the way back laugh and joke .. We also put to bother the Egyptians shouting to them: "Hallo my friend!" "My name is Hamdiaaa!" "Do you want to buy bicycles?" "Very very cheep! .. Special price for you! "" Little tour with bicycles? Little Prices! "And again:" Halloo! How are you today? ".. We all look so strange ... but many are having fun. Well, because we had not intended to take them out but to make them laugh!
Return the bicycles and return home. After preparing the backpacks intelligently, since we expect in the desert five days with daily stages, leave for dinner. We are tired and we give a nice collective taxi! Very cheap and nice. Gladdens us with a cheerful Arabic music. We decide to return to the restaurant Tuthankamon, where the first day we ate well. The view at night on the shore east of Luxor, as we had imagined, it's wonderful. You see the illuminated temple, the Winter Palace hotel, a perfect example of colonial architecture. Tonight is not even so cold. Our children, we drink tea, take to the road, they say they talk with friends (FRIENDS ??).. In fact we find them with the boys of the place. They also offered the. With another collective taxi go home. Tonight there is the cat. The owner must have kept closed at home because he was jealous that we were .. Sin, had also bought the tuna ...

(Luxor - El Kharga)

At 8:00 we are to take the house (the famous $ 100 by taxi) for us to El Kharga. In fact this is a spacious minibus with all the comforts. There is with us, besides the driver, also an employee of the agency because, he says, has never been to El Kharga.
But, NO PROBLEM ... him show us the city! Our driver has their seat belts secured and proceeds very cautiously. I make the joke: "Want to see who passed the check posts out of Luxor, you remove the seat belts and start running like a madman?" ALREADY! I! It goes this way: over the last, it releases the belt and the rocket! On this road there are convoys of police checks only. And this is why (we had explained) that only certain vehicles can pass.
The border control are always the same three questions: WHERE IS, HOW MANY TOURISTS TRANSPORT AND THAT NATIONALITY, so soon we learn to say "Harb Italy (Italian 4)! The road is asphalted road and super desert. Even the landscape is desert. 380 kilometers. On the right, nothing! Left nothing! In front and behind as well. A few miles from El Kharga ask you to pause for a moment to see QSAR Gehiba, an ancient Roman fortress of mud bricks, which contains within it a temple of the greek-roman dynasty.
It is very special. Inside un'egittologa also know that U.S. is rebuilding some inscriptions. E 'Center for Archaeological Research of Georgia. After the visit, continue to the hotel Sol Y Mar El Kharga. The choice fell on this nice four stars (the only oasis in) because, as the Night of Christmas and being in a Muslim country where this holiday is not heard, we liked the idea of spending in a hotel Touring, which certainly would have found something more and a special dinner. The reservation on the Internet was also done well in advance, fearing not to find the place. However we are not sure of anything, because when I tried to November, via e-mail, to request an additional confirmation of the reservation, I was not ever answered anyone. Who knows? 12:30 enter the town of El Kharga, and the last inspection, the police will follow up in a hotel! Mah! The hotel is the desert, as its surroundings. Optimistically believe that groups of tourists are out for walks and fall in the afternoon. Log files, give us the keys, but when we are about to move into the reception room that draws me back saying that the police want to know what we do today, the question which, of course, we still do not know answer. But they insist they want to know what time and where we go out because we have to accompany. (Stocks ????). I am angry, I say that we are on holiday we are not in jail ... "We are in prison?"
But if I look to plan my day in Egypt? "I AM NOT FREE HERE?"
We are told that they have orders to escort the groups. To which the reply that we are not a group, we're just a family. But a mistake to think: from four people up for their group is already considered. All that go to that country ... I try to ask: "... .. and if we go out two by two? ... It's OK?" After an exhausting discussion with the police, the reception I shall sign a paper, where I declare that, under my responsibility, giving up the escort. Breath of relief and I'm going in the room. We have lost at least half an hour, so we decide to eat something here. But among the different expectations, we manage to eat only until 14:00. The hotel is very nice, the swimming pool, restaurant and garden, sin that is empty! There seems to have realized that tonight there are two groups ... ask! Delusion of the two groups in total consist of nine persons: there is ns. group 4, and another group of 5! Better than nothing, will sing 'merry christmas' in two families ... But unfortunately even this will be possible, because the other family is Egyptian Muslim. We discover that there is even a special dinner and then we almost cry. (what we have done here?).
At 15:00 we decide to go and take a trip to the country because we have to organize ns. all'Oasi transfer of Dakkla (Mut) for tomorrow.
Just go out, one of the police than before, wearing a sweater with white stripes, blue and red, take with us, albeit at arm's length. At first we think that perhaps if they are going downtown too, but if he accelerated speeds, and if we stop: ditto. We seek to sow but without success .. Follows us! We begin to wonder if there is any real danger here in El Kharga (Maybe something happened that we do not know? Perhaps they found a den of terrorists?). In any case we do not like to go escorted there seems a lack of respect for the people, almost an insult. We are aliens and that's it, we are not of public figures so important to be protected! So we tell him to leave, I signed a paper not! Thus disappears. Finally!
Get some money in an ATM (as is) and then we head towards the center .. the road is a bit long, so stop a taxi. It 'the first time that we happen to stop a taxi in Egypt ... usually they are the ones who stop tourists.
Of course here that if tourists keep them closed at the hotel there are not even used .. Just got on the taxi trying to explain that we would go in the center. "Downtown? Center? ... Medina ...? suk? "And as I explain him?! Does not speak English .. So we do pull over for a moment and show the map ... .., as in an action film, from ns. comes out behind a police vans and one plant in front. ... Toh fall, there is also the one with the white sweater with blue stripes and red (it was gone .. i just called reinforcements). Approaching the driver to ask him where he is leading. Are spoken in Arabic and then go back on the vans. There are five! The ns. taxista (ALI) has asked us to bring 2 pounds in the center (not even 25 euro cents), some who have not yet learned to skinned tourists ... So take advantage and ask what it take to bring a Mut (230 km) tomorrow. He thinks about it, then extract the pen and paper and write the number (in Arabic numerals, but fortunately Carlotta and I know them to read): 150 pounds (about twenty euro ....)! This morning, for more or less the same Km we have spent 600! I assume the fly! We are happy and he is happy! It seems happy! This morning I have the feeling of having only feed fat cows!
Let us go to the city center and police vans following us ... We are almost followed criminals on sight ...!
We stop to take tea, which we also Alí. The vans will stop there before the bar and a policeman comes to sit at the table next to ... IS A STRESS! But in the end we adapt ... no choice! We also friends with the policeman with the striped sweater.
We hope however that Oasis are not all so .... but Ali confirms that, after El Kharga, no more police ... ..
Let's take a trip in the Suk (always accompanied). The Suk is different from that of Luxor, and particularly from that of Aswan. No one here to sell you insist things are friendly and smiling.
We buy the dates and nuts, as well as two slices of Bas Busa (a local sweet love to Carlotta).

(Night at El Kharga)

We decided then to return to the hotel so these poor cops can go home! Hotels come in super escorted occurs because another vans, with a captain who wants confirmation by Giampaolo our departure tomorrow. For them to be a liberation. A family of tourists that undisciplined finally goes away! Ali will be there to take at 9:00 although, in my opinion, went well at 8:00, so tonight I feel that at 22:00 we are already a nanna!
After a few moments that we feel in the room knocking (the police will be ???). No! It is a waiter who brings us two trays of sweets and an envelope. Boh?
With the best wishes of the management tell us that tonight they decided to do a gala dinner ... SUKRAN! (which reaches a group?).
In the late afternoon we discover that behind the hotel pool is a beautiful reconstruction of an old Bedouin village, with a two-storey houses, terraces, courtyard with barbecue, equipped Bedouin tent in the room, area rugs and cuscinoni Narghile for the smoke. One sees that, when the hotel is full, organized the shows.
The question is, when the hotel is full?
When we descend to 20:00 for dinner, the family from Egypt where it is already gone, therefore we are four of us pilgrims spersi in this vast empty restaurant. We have prepared a banquet in return Lucullo, of which unfortunately we can eat one third ... at 22:00 we're already in bed ... what sadness! Merry Christmas!

(El Kharga - Mut)

We do not see the day when we go there ....! In fact this morning we were woken up twice! Also, at 8:00 they were already in the room to collect your luggage .... I said: "Look who we leave at 9:00." At least nine quarter are expected to have all the ns. taxista Ali, the police vans and our friend the policeman with the striped sweater. Accompanying us to out of town! Then go ahead and salute them. Finally alone! Ali is beautiful and nice, pity that does not speak English and therefore communication is very difficult!
The landscape is changing and it alternates between rocky hills, flattened and immense sand dunes. It is a beautiful contrast of colors. The air is clear and beautiful fresh. The sky is blue! The road is all paved and I would say in very good condition. 10:30 Indeed we are already half way .... Before arriving in Dakkla there are cave paintings, but despite having tried all ways to make myself understood by Ali there are not even with the success ... So nothing disegnini cave paintings (to the delight of the other components of the family), but 'ancient Bedouin village of Balat I do not want to miss! After several ups to find the access road, a guardian (or a normal person I do not know!) Us patrol in the town of Balat. Ali has never come here and then visit us. Balat is really special. Construction of two-or three-storey brick mud, intersected by narrow alleys, covered with slabs made with bushes and mud. On the ground floor are the rooms where he welcomed guests, the rooms and bathroom are placed at the first and / or second floor and the roof is cooking! There is also an ancient mosque in the medieval village, still in use. We, too, say a prayer inside, so God is God, at any latitude. The mosque has large pillars and rendered many beautiful carpets. A Balat walls have a special relation to other Bedouin villages are plastered (with mud) and have rounded walls. Above the doors are wooden beams and stone with various inscriptions, including the year of construction of the house, the names of owners, etc.. We also find a stele with inscriptions in hieroglyphic. Perhaps this is an ancient stone found nearby and used as a lintel.
Nearby, in fact, were found several relics, dating back to pharaonic reign of the (more than 4500 years ago). In the area there are also ancient tombs but decide not to see, because when we are in Egypt with monuments and tombs we have seen enough! At noon the trip back to Mut. Instead of controlling the entry of dell'oasi Dakkla we are asked what hotel we go. We do not know why we did not respond reserved. It will not be a problem? Luckily not, no problem and there are even. Let's see a couple of hotels and then we stop at Bedouin Camp! A perfect choice, so we are also a camel in the afternoon. The Bedouin Camp is located seven kilometers out of town towards Farafra has typical Bedouin style buildings, made with mud bricks. The rooms are spacious and very special, with private bathroom. Good price: 14 euros per room with breakfast! Since they're already 13:30, while the males unload baggage, Carlotta and I reserve the camel in the desert for the afternoon: departure at 15:00. Meanwhile Alí, before leaving, we proposed to take us to Farafra tomorrow (there are about 300 km) and asks us only 250 Pounds (about 40 usd)! Done deal ... but to sleep? NO PROBLEM! Alí asleep in the car .. us to see the quilt that has resulted. As is here with us, we are bringing in the town of Mut, for lunch. Invite him also, of course, but Alí sits at another table ...? After several insistence convince him to sit down with us ... So we speak (PARLIAMO?) Or try to explain better. He makes us see the photos of his wife, from what I understand in the first instance is to be married 19 years but has not
children .... It can not be though, because he is too young. Appears more realistic version that has just married ... ... December 19 last year.
Then, Alí and Matthew started playing with mobile phones ... We had a gallery to Alí with our phone and he wants him on his move .. Bluetooth? Infrared? But he does not even use it well ... then go to Matthew ... But ... .... the menu is in Arabic! Matthew laughs and makes him!
At 15:00, on time at the hotel, waiting for our. camels! Two hours of beautiful walks. My camel is male and is called NOOR, has ten years. Accompany us in three. The older gentleman speaks English and gives us some information about the camels, for example, tells us that the camel can live 35 to 50 years ...
The excursion is exceptional. The Egyptian desert, unlike the Tunisian, is more varied and rough, jagged rocks, hills, rocky areas and beautiful sand dunes. The camel (dromedary or in English) by Carlotta is female and six years. After an hour of camels, we make a stop. It is almost sunset and the play of light and reflections, that can be seen on the dunes is wonderful!
The two boys who have accompanied us, are a race of long jump and also to teach our children how it runs down, the slopes of the dunes!
In return, Matthew and I will exchange the camels. It is more stable, so I also make shooting with the camera. It was a beautiful day. During the trip, we also spotted a fox in the desert! Now is the thought of our rooms we are concerned. It dropped and seemed quite cold, since the windows are fitted with glass, but only with mosquito nets, something tells us that maybe you will freeze! Va beh .. at most we train for the night in tents for days!
Evening dinner at the hotel! At 19:00 we are all in the restaurant. There is a lot of people, but at least the environment is more cheerful than yesterday evening. There is a German girl who works in the resort, so take advantage to chat with you. Also speaks a little Arabic. A few years ago is coming here on vacation and offered to remain as secretary to the reception. Thus, from four years living here. Also tonight are struggling to convince a lot Alí to sit at our table .... The German says that is probably the first time that accompanies tourists around and intimidated. Given that we know to El Kharga it does not surprise us that much (especially the fact that it is not accustomed to tourists).
After dinner ....: Surprise! The staff lit the bonfire outside and invites us to smoke the Narghile. And tonight there is music! Some of them, indeed, accompanied by various percussion instruments and a kind of mandolin, begin to sing songs Bedouin ... and Carlotta launches into belly dancing. Applauditissima! Alí even sits with us!
Let's go to sleep in the cold! Very freddooooo ... (brrr brrr)!

(Mut - Farafra)

At 6:30 am on the morning filming the desert. Awake, besides me, there are only two cats in the resort, Fifi and Mimi. The night was cold, but we survived. Thank goodness for that Alí have a room to sleep, because the car windows this morning there is even ice!
At 7:00 there will be breakfast. Then we start.
The first step is to Al QSAR, another ancient Bedouin village of the 1500s, transformed into a museum. In QSAR is more tourist Balat, even much bigger.
It is still partially inhabited (about 700 people) and inside we have the chance to see a blacksmith at work. We admire and an old mill for squeezing oil. Yes, because in the Western Oasis, there are also olive trees.
10:00 we are on the road to Farafra, still in the midst of this desert, so unpredictable. The landscape changes every ten minutes by sharp hills to flat chains and sandstone, stratified rocks and sand dunes. At 11:20 a.m. we are in full desert sand. On the road you begin to see the first of the jeep tours.
This morning I asked Alí address to send him the photos ... but he wrote me in Arabic! I will have to photocopy them and paste on the envelope .... Recopied it is virtually impossible!
Around noon we make a brief stop for tea with mint and a visit to the toilet ... then we start. Lacking 85 kilometers to Farafra. On this stretch we come back in the phenomenon of illusions, as happened on the road from Aswan to Abu Simbel. But here, in addition to the vision of the "lake", we also have the vision of the long strip of black asphalt, which from a distance, it seems at times completely covered with sand, however, as the sand ... t'avvicini vanishes into thin air ! At this time makes a tremendous hot! Farafra enter in and try a hotel. Alí we leave here, because tomorrow will take us for a hike in the desert black and white 2 days and one night, previously ordered via the Internet. I organized the trip with pick up from Barhayya ... because, for some strange reason, the path to the contrary was organized from Farafra to cost almost twice as high.
A Farafra find accommodation at Badayivia. Another curious thing: on the Internet, I had asked for the exaggerated figure of 69 usd a camera in place ... there were only 29 applied.
We also offer a suite for $ 40, which we accept, encouraged by the presence of heating and a fireplace, however, make an incredible effort to switch. In the afternoon, we stroll to the oasis of Farafra. Small but nice enough. Here in the oasis, there is much less the state of poverty that is present, for example, to Aswan or Luxor. We buy a kilo of delicious dates for one quarter of U.S. dollars .... C'inoltriamo then in the gardens (plus gardens that can be compared to a jungle). There we find to be followed by police, plainclothes and ... a distance.
Surprised even the locals, you are bathing in pools of hot water spa (this area is wedged sources of this kind). Other dates will wash the children ... I will plunge. We do a tour in the central area of shops and ... ... ... see that?
Incredible! A Tuk Tuk Asian style. We simply must try it! So if you ask us soon to make a turn! (NDR: Even in this case we ask for the service!)
Leads us to see the old town of Farafra and the ruins of ancient fortress. S'inoltra later in a palm grove, where, however, back right away, because there are men of the place you are doing swimming in pools of warm water (NDR: and probably are naked!). Then leads us through the streets of Medina, where the outer walls of the houses are painted ships or airplanes, to symbolize that families who live there have already been on a pilgrimage to Mecca. Finally, no longer knowing what we see, leads us into new neighborhoods dell'oasi (probably where he lives) and where a swarm of children, girls, etc. .. greets us very warmly, seem happy to see us and some are even signs of stopping to take the ...
Even here in Farafra, as in other oases, there is a calm atmosphere. The cities are dirty, messy but calm. None t'infastidisce, mass tourism does not exist and if, a few tourist agent contact you to offer a tour in the desert or other, makes it quite professionally.
Return to hotel around 18:00 and try to turn on the fireplace! It makes a beastly cold! The hot air is not heated because, poor, must do battle with the cold air that enters through the windows placed on the dome of the room, who do not have the glass ... but the mosquito nets ... very substantial dinner at the hotel (because otherwise where are you going? ?). In hotel there are many tourists, but apart from a German couple, are small groups. Before we make a lot sleep a Back Gammon front of the fireplace. Then we start the fight against cold and against mosquitoes ... thirsty for blood. To think that we have not even seen a mosquito on the Nile!
Frosty night ... I sleep in the Bedouin, with his head slipped under the covers.

(Farafra - White Desert)

We arrive for breakfast and cold is cold even in the restaurant. Next to us there is a German family with two children, who lunched with the anoraks. We discover that they are doing do more "yourself" ... because of our doing the rounds in Egypt with a car rental without drivers! Say that so far have not encountered any problem!
10:00 we are to take Achmet, of Peter Wirth, through which we have organized the white desert safari in, via the Internet. On our Land Cruiser was loaded everything, food, tents, pillows, mattresses and even the wood for the fire (and I know that it takes !!!). To start the local police makes us sign a piece of paper in which we declare that we renounce the escort and go hiking in the desert under the ns. responsibilities (you know that it would be nice to camp in the desert with the police vans at the side we spy ???).

Then we start. 10:30 Achmet ... suddenly stops and asks: "Do you have water?" "Water! No .... Why? We had to bring us water? "" All organized, all inclusive ... we even brought the wood and the water below ??!!" Well no ... the truth is that they forgot the water. Back to Farafra (minus the evil that came to mind only after 20 kilometers and not in the middle of the desert ....). During one of the first steps in the beautiful White Desert, we collect the first fossil stones. Have forms of animals, fish, shells. Some have small footprints of birds.
To 12:45 we stop in the middle of the old white desert for lunch. Achmet is cook, driver, driving, more ... .. The White Desert begins to wonder. At each corner or at every turn the landscape changes. Here, where we stopped, there is also a tree, with yellow flowers. Achmet maintains that it is a miracle because there is no water here, but we believe in a little depth of water there should be any different ... steps to the tree .... but the flowers? We camp with rugs and mats to the ground while preparing Achmet a lot of things ... to eat salad with tuna sauce, various appetizers ... The only sore point: The flies! Mosche terrible and assetatissime. Besides celebrating the arrival of 5 living organisms nell'arido desert! Give him a bit of water? In the end we opt for a slice of cucumber which is placed 30 cm from our mat, it works by attracting hundreds of flies! The sun is hot and beats.
To 15:30 we are still a stroll through the desert. A little bit off and a little walk. Huge white rocks rising from the soil dry and sandy, as impressive sculptures. Have forms of dogs, chickens, camels, foxes, etc.. Gypsum formations are sculpted by the wind over the centuries. Achmet we also noted the many footprints of foxes in the desert, but this time we do not have the luck to spot, as a Mut, while camels.
At 18:30 am sitting on the comfortable cushions of a sudden Bedouin tent that has Achmet anchored on one side to the Land Cruiser and the other the sand. Even our tents have already been fitted and now our kitchen Achmet! The sunset was indescribable, is running out now but still s'intravede a beautiful shade of red, which is the background to all those strange sculptures that surround us. The crackling fire and night falls. There is no wind so the cold is more bearable. 19:00 dinner is ready. Peter, through Achmet, we sent two beers ... nice! Dinner is tasty. Chicken in foil, served with rice and a mixture of vegetables such peperonata really excellent addition to salad and sauce.
After the dinner we all sit around the fire and prepare tea. Meanwhile, you throw the coals in American potato that Carlotta and I eat, around 22:00! Carlotta and I sleep together tonight. Males with males and females with females! It makes a cold ... .. It goes in turn around the rocks to the sand and water then goes to sleep ....

(White Desert - Baharryya)

I wake up at 7:00 and, with Carlotta, look at the sunrise. Last night was cold, especially at the bottom of the bag (if the elongated legs gelavano), but we all survived, therefore: No PROBLEM! By an act of courage go out into the open for tours morning behind the rocks ... But, while we are doing a pee, spot a tourist (with a camera with mega-telephoto) advancing in our direction .. We urliamo stop, alt, ... but the moment progresses. Then we got there and recomposing, rocks, and circumvent salute cordially: Good Morning, Day Boun ... Salam Alajkum. He also responds and adds' Jo reggelt kívánok '! Want to see what we have found a Hungarian in the desert? But no ... It's an American who lives in Budapest! HI! Then try backpack a brochure of our farm and I offer them ... public relations in the white desert. Meanwhile, you also wake up the boys, who slept all clothes and then have not suffered from the cold that we have suffered (which we made the pigiamino!) ... Ah ... ah
Before removing the curtains, we see that all around there are a lot of impressions of animal legs of some not well identified. Achmet explain that there are mice in the desert. Think, poor, maybe they wanted to come and have found everything tightly closed!
Achmet, who slept in the car (I think they like to sleep in his car ...), wakes up an hour after us ... and everyone is already sleeping bags, duvets, blankets and tents dismantled and folded! WE ARE GOOD EH? At 9:30, after breakfast and after reloaded everything on Land Cruise (including dell'immondizia bag attached to the front bumper), it is part. Is already hot! Before returning on the main road and after a beautiful location among the dunes and rock formations, we stop at a plateau. Here we show Achmet small cylinders of pyrite that arise spontaneously from the stone, blacks appear as twigs that emerge from the white rock, is extracted from the rock with your fingers inside and have shiny foil. Turning into the black desert and we stop to Crystal Mountain. We also collect pieces of rock crystal from the ground ... and then, we see that air is protected and there is much sign that we can not remove debris. What figuraccia! Then, again with music (Achmet certainly loves music), we arrive in a clearing, where we find a hill where and departs from a very steep trail and steep. There are a lot of tourists. We meet the first Italians in the desert ... we say they are doing a trip charge. C'incamminiamo up the steepest street in the middle of a wind so strong that at times seems even reject them. The view of the Desert Black is beautiful but .... coming from the desert white leaves you a little disappointed ... (perhaps that is why most of the tour are on the contrary!). Before arriving in Baharryya, Achmet stops along the main road and dell'immondizia throwing the sack in a field which already contains the other, will be the landfill? Mah?
13:30 arrive at the Health Center Baharryya, owned by Germany's Peter and his wife who is Japanese, but from? That melting! Japan & Germany in Egypt!
Achmet salute, take possession of the room and have lunch at the hotel.
Bicycle rental nothing, then after lunch c'incamminiamo walk and do a lot of street (in the sun). We must find a means of transport that will take us to Cairo tomorrow.
At the hotel asked us for 600 Pound! Find ns. heroes unless something?
We arrive in the country and we sit in a bar to drink the tea, rather, in addition to the fumiamo we also do shisha and a game of dominoes, from Egyptian perfect. Let requesting information for the transportation to and Cairo ... ... ... ZAC! We find a minibus for 250 pounds! Perfect. They want an advance of 50 pounds and in return they give us a business card ... well ... we hope. Then we go downtown to buy cigarettes, the dates and nutmeg. Here in Baharryya women are covered, the chador leaves only the eyes uncovered, and in some cases, not even those. Even the colors of the clothes are all very dark. Another thing we notice is that there is no police, no entry or exit, or around the country. In the center we find the driver of our safari, Achmet, which introduces us to his two children and then give us a ride up near the hotel. Before we do a fall tour of the palms so then, since we are now on the road, climb the hill behind overview our hotel (the tireless!) And then falling directly into the garden of the Hotel. The view sull'oasi indeed was not to lose. Returned to the hotel, since there is a pool of spring water spa, we decide to try it. It is hot, but very hot. In fact, we do not know if it is good for the reaction to warm bath, but tonight none of us feel cold! For the first time since we are in the desert! Room in every way we are also the electric stoves. Dinner at Hotel. Narghile bar in Bedouin-style tent and then sleep.

(Baharryya - The Cairo)

I wake up at seven and, as usual, I enjoy the sunrise from the terrace of the hotel. The Hotel is desert. I can not understand how they sleep at all so much. 21:30 (22:00 at most) are all still in bed but up to 8:00 in the morning do not see anyone around.
At 9:00, after a truly excellent breakfast (the buffet was even a rocket), we are waiting for the van booked yesterday in the village. Comes with a few minute's delay but arrived! In Cairo there are 330 kilometers of road that runs between sand dunes and arid plains: the last glimpses of the many Egyptian desert. Along the way there are also bus stops. Stops that do not understand those who serve, as there are no buildings, factories or houses in a radius of miles! (perhaps something to be built soon). At 11:30 we stop in a motorway (AUTOGRILL ??!). But the toilets are clean, especially those of women. We believe ... .. do not use anybody, because in two hours and half way we met a couple of cars and some trucks.
At 13:00, a few kilometers from Cairo, the ns. driver stops on the street and falls. Maybe want to leave here?
Revolves around self cautiously, then opened the door and begins to roll up the curtains close tight so that you do not see. He tries to explain: "Police .. no good. " We understand: the curtains do not fit! Ok. So help him and we quickly hide all the curtains ...
NO PROBLEM!
In Cairo, we close down the subway to Giza, so we decide to avoid taking a taxi, the traffic is less c'impieghiamo subway.
On the wagon we know of students, two Coptic Christians and three Muslims, companions and friends of the school and chatted a bit. There then arises the doubt that they were more interested to know Matthew, that our family in general.
Arriving at Sadat Station, continue walking around until 14:00 and arrive at the Cosmopolitan. The lady at the reception just sees me asks me where we come from. The answer that we come from a tour of the oasis! Al looks at me puzzled because saying "who knows that cold because you have suffered over the past four days has made an exceptionally cold for Egypt."
Took possession of the rooms, we try to call the famous Abu AS Sid restaurant to book a table for tonight, but nothing to do ... first round free 23:30 (I think a little late) ... .. Otherwise there is the possibility to go there immediately and since I do not have specific programs and we do not have lunch yet, we decide to accept! Take a taxi to the district of Zamalek. We offer 10 pound (the Lonely Planet lists 6) but says that 30th Descend. We take another. Same scene.
The third taxi is happy. But he does not know the way and should ask several passers-by. In the end we reach the "cathedral" of The Cairo Egyptian cuisine. The restaurant is exceptional, full of foreigners but also Egyptians. The decorations are splendid oriental. The tables are a bit small, but also with all the requests that have more seats possible! Eat and drink divinely. In any case spend almost 100 euro in 4! After lunch we go to visit the district of Zamalek. The neighborhood of Zamalek is the northern part of an island that is located in the middle of the Nile. Sure, compared to down-town, the difference is huge. Zamalek has more the appearance of a district of western cities: beautiful buildings, machines, modern, clean and ordered shops, elegant cafes. It is the neighborhood of embassies and homes of foreign residents, but, certainly, there are also many Egyptians of high social class.
On the way back along the Nile long, up to Gezira (the part south of the island). When we are tired take a taxi. We also demand the cost for a possible transfer of tomorrow from Cairo to Alexandria - via Birkas (the camel) and Wadi Natrum (monasteries Coptic Christians)! The taxi driver makes us an offer of 300 pounds (which is not bad ....) And then, as we approach the hotel, declines .. We can not say that ... because to go out of Cairo must call a special permit and tomorrow is Friday (the Muslim day of rest) and the offices are closed ...
To us it seems strange but in all cases, if he does not want us ....
Then, around 19:00, we are without transport for tomorrow. We ask the agency about the shooting but $ 130 .... (We give also the 'thief'). I try to do a text message to Omar (the GatTours) but he makes us not even the offer. We replied that the taxi is very expensive ... better to go by train! (this we knew that we ... .. but I want to see the camel market and the monasteries .... and public transport takes at least two days).
At the bar in front of the ns. hotel while sipping tea with mint, suddenly there is the idea ... "We as a Baharryya yesterday? Ask at the bar? Maybe the owner has a friend who is a driver? .... "
Indeed it has! 400 pound us in Alexandria included with all our steps! (less than half of the hotel). 7:30 departure! The driver that will take is called Mohamed Alí .. (fancy that). We recommend that you do not say anything at the hotel directly and find out ...
(NDR: why had not realized that there is a kind of mafia here?).
Around 20:00 we are moving towards the center (down the Town) and we purchase a bag to take home gifts, a skirt for Carlotta, and play an idiot but fun .. At 21:00 we decide to stop for a snack at the restaurant the first night but eat only two .... Obviously, after the abbuffata restaurant today! Grilled chicken with rice.
21:30 and I am around is full of people. Women men and children. We find, here in Cairo, the modern Muslim dress, stretch skirts, tight trousers, jeans and fashion colorful veils that cover their heads. Women at the bar, alone, who smoke the Narghile. Another world.
(editor's note: our. Royal Cleopatra guide .. when I asked why women in Cairo are not like the rest of Egypt ... I replied "This is not Cario Egypt ... it's like Rome!")
Via Alfy, among countless restaurants and bars, walking the sheep flocks in whole and accompanied by the pastor. All'avamposto a cow!
At midnight, just finished preparing the bags that we carry in Alexandria tomorrow (leaving in a hotel all the rest), Carlotta calls me from the next room saying that there is someone who wants me on the phone ...
At midnight! It is Mohamed Ali, the driver of tomorrow? No ... .... his brother is Taohid .. will be to take him, wanted to confirm.

(The Cairo - Birkas - Wadi Natrum - Alexandria)

After breakfast and, after leaving the luggage in the store's free, leave and cross the square. There we meet our driver Taohid. Taohid speaks English. Normally the driver for the Korean embassy, but in their free time, rounding salary with tourists. Did not the driver license, so we pray, if we stop someone, not to say that it is a paid service! BUT ... ... ... NO PROBLEM! ... ... .. MY FRIEND!
Along the Nile for a long stretch. It has a light blue color, it appears clear and clean! The weather is beautiful, we hope that lasts up to Alexandria. At 8:20 begins a dense fog, that if we had not seen with the ns. eyes, yet we doubt hijacking of our airplane to Cyprus, because the fog Cairo.
The camel market of Birkas wing is an event which rarely has the opportunity to attend, at least for us Westerners! The problem is that some traders of camels (editor's note: Fortunately, not all animals) beat so exaggerated, to make them sit down to lift them, or just to keep them in line. Everyone has a foot attached so that they can not run away fast.
The market is teeming exaggerated a camel. There will be thousands. Visitors only some tens or ... pick up vans depart from the market with their camels purchased.
Matthew and Charlotte do not tolerate very well the violence that some traders look to these harmless and cute animals, and understand them!
Dividing by the market, our. autista wrong way ... and if I'm not a farglielo note, we return to Cairo.
Around 11:00 am we reach the monasteries of Wadi Natrum. There are a number of Christian monasteries, born in the fourth century AD in the middle of the desert, where they were a refuge for Christians fleeing Roman persecution. Here was born and developed the monastic tradition which later was endorsed by European Christians. We decide to visit the monastery of Deir Al Baramus. In this monastery, the fourth century. D.C., 80 monks still live Orthodox. Un monaco with long hair and glasses (intellectual 80s) to guide us. He speaks very good English and then to let them take advantage mole questions, not so much on the monastery, but on the difference between the various Christian religions. We thus learn that, according to their dogma (actually very very tough), who does not believe in Jesus is not their salvation, unlike the Catholics - stresses - which grant salvation to non-believers. What then is whether an Orthodox married a Muslim? Obvious answer. Is expelled from the Coptic church.
Ok. Taken note of this hardness dogmatica not continue further.
12:40 p.m. to start from the Monastery, towards Alexandria. We reach almost to 14:00 and we look at the first hotel to Union! It's perfect, I would say a surprise! Standard rooms cost 12 euros and are not evil. We take a 4 bedded room, large, clean and a nice bathroom. TV and minibar. Balcony on the Mediterranean with panoramic views. Total cost 30 euros including breakfast (for all four).
Taohid salute, to which we have made an appointment at the Cosmopolitan on the first of the year - at 8:00 - to make the trip to Giza, Sakkara and Dashur.
Before you start exploring Alexandria, the phone call the Swedes, known at the airport during the outward journey, and we agree to see us, at about 18:00, at home. A little walk on the beach towards the central square, where stands the monument to unknown soldiers. The buildings are very impressive and the view from the front, the strong, is very fascinating. The weather is beautiful and it is hot. After taking some photography, we are in the old quarter, where there are markets with improvised sellers "really fierce"!
The environment is much folklore and may be defined in pure chaos. The merchants are in four to sell their goods. One even climbed on the roof of un'automaobile (we hope is his) and shouting from the rooftops the exceptional price!.
Try clubs recommended by a Lonely Planet (the Cup d'Or) to eat something, but the local community is a real restaurant, where we cook squid and prawns fabulous. As always eat a little too!
Are already 16:30, so we decide to do a panoramic tour of the city by tram and then travel by Swedes. At the restaurant, however, seek an ATM and ... .. "The one" who? We "eat" the paper ... .. Horror !!!!! Call emergency number (obviously written in Arabic characters) and tell us that, as a minimum, the employee may not arrive before one and a half .... BELLO! What is? Wait.
The boys go into a hotel .... And we expect.
After exactly 90 minutes (SWISS PRECISION!) The employee who comes to us rida paper. We reach the hotel, we retrieve our. children and we go by taxi from the Swedish (which in the meantime had alerted the delay). The taxi takes us "almost" ... a destination in that it leaves us in a street parallel to the right ... ask, ask left ... we can finally find the house! An Egyptian lady (who was their colf) to our request "Diana and Jerry?" He answered "Harb! .. Harb ....
Harb means "four" and then we head to the 4th floor. We received a very nice gentleman, who invites us to come together ... but Jerry is not so ... thank you and go to a piano! The home of Diana and Jerry, to be their second home is very appealing. Diana lived for 18 years in Sweden. But surely it was the love for big houses, typical of the Egyptians. Even the apartment that we had taken for rent in Luxor, in fact, was enormous. We have prepared a lot of things to eat and drink and beer, wine and wisky. Even the brother of Diana wisky drunk ... maybe we are all converted to Christianity? But no! We discover that the husband is Swedish, which was converted to Islam. Our view. surprise ... we explain that in their religion are not all students at 100 percent but it is still not believe in God
Diana is very nice: have the temperament to Egyptian Joint Europeanised attitudes. At 22:30 (prestino. ....) go to dinner. Lead us to eat at Quadora. Here we meet a group of Sardinian ... After a huge meal of fish, at 1:00 we go to sleep. Wake up early tomorrow morning (New!) Because the train to Cairo part at 8:00. At the hotel told me they do not need to book ... hopefully good.

(Alexandria - The Cairo)

At 7:35, we are already at the station! After finding the right door (each door sells certain routes ...) used to tell us that the train is no more place! I, of course ... I am angry because I had doubts I had and the reception and asked if it was the case with book. They replied that I had no ... No Problem!
What now? We do a little bit of drama and say that we have an airplane in a few hours! .. Another employee comes and asks us what we need ... simple: "to go to Cairo"
Recheck the booking sheet and said NO PROBLEM: four seats there are.
Breath of relief. The train is very beautiful. The comfortable seats (for business class). Excellent catering service. We arrive in Cairo around 10.00 ... ... .. there is the fog!
(But in Cairo there is always the fog?)
Take a taxi outside the station (always after exhausting the usual bargaining) and go to the Cosmopolitan with 10 pounds.
We do check-in and then, quick quick, take a taxi to the Islamic Cairo. Ask him to take us to the mosque of El Azhar ... but he leaves us in the street El Azhar. A little evil, but because there is a small mosque, we call "El Azhar?" "Yes, yes .." and so we shall see a poor unfortunate mosque shooting in pieces. The keeper also makes us see the bathrooms and the refectory. We laugh. At the end of the street El Azhar, after about one kilometer, we find the imposing Mosque of El Azhar, with its five minarets. Guide us to a young Muslim who speaks Italian very well. The mosque is the seat of their "bishop" and is very well decorated. The courtyard is the oldest and dates back to the tenth century.
E 'visiting this mosque that we discover that their custom is to read, study or just relax in it. It is full of young people who read, write or rest. Also interesting is the legend of one of the minarets 5 that in the highest part is split into two distinct peaks, representing the split between Shiites and Sunnis. After thorough tour of the mosque of El Azhar, we are in the bazaar of Khan al Khalili.
That we are in Islamic Cairo there is no doubt! We head to the Khan al Khalili restaurant but there is no place, at least until 16:00, then folded in a restaurant any, in the main square, where also try to bear on the account. Sin: no tip.
Buy a pair of sunglasses whose price by 85 pounds, in about 15 minutes, miraculously drops to 20! After lunch we give a break nell'Aiwa oldest district of the Fishawi, drink tea and smoke a shisha. In this ancient room, decorated with mirrors and inlaid wood, used to spend many afternoons Egyptian writer Mahfuz, Nobel laureate in literature.
We move then to visit the old Ottoman house in Beit as-Suhaymi, now museum. The house is enormous. Three floors with dozens of rooms, arranged a maze, all beautifully decorated and full of inlays. All the windows are huge wooden grate finely worked, which allowed women to spy on what happens in the court below without being seen! At fall into confusion. But we do not have time to complain ... we must make the final purchase, and then we launch into the fray.
The shisha to buy in a store room, outside the tourist area. Similarly we set for objects in brass. For other purchases, however ... is war! Wild trading, prices go down from 485 pounds to 80 as if by magic, escapes from the shops and then be recalled within kindly. Overall, there fun.
To return to the hotel we head on the main road to hail a taxi and there happens something strange ... a guy approached us and asked us if we need a taxi to say "Yes, for the Cosmopolitan hotel, ... but we pay a maximum of 10 pounds ". Negotiation as usual and then says "ok"! NO PROBLEM! We were convinced it was a taxi driver ... procurers instead was a business for taxi drivers ... because this guy stopped a taxi in the middle of the road (sorry ... could not stop us ... :???) give you two pounds for the service and makes us accommodate Mafia ... (!)
The poor man does not know, however, the location of the turn and empty for nearly an hour ... You ask us why not even sleep at the Hilton or Sheraton, which is easier to find ...
In any case there is a little pain so the end will give him 15 pounds. Today is the last of the year. Carlotta and I go out shopping for a couple of hours later we return to the hotel (not after a brief stop at the Barettini in front of our hotel for tea and a shisha) and we prepare for dinner. Descend to 10:00 in the restaurant! In the middle of the buffet table of a huge solitary towers Pyrex bowl full of boiled chickpeas (perhaps replace our lentils?). 10:45 a.m. to bring us chicken soup and started belly dancing. This too is a pain ... better dance tourists. The second course consists of breaded chicken fillets (type Findus). At midnight distribute hats. Of sparkling wine even the shadow ...
NO PROBLEM! After midnight the room was empty ... we are just 4 or 5 tables. There is a performance of Sufi dancing not bad! At 2 am to do a jump Barettini in front of a fumarci bercé a shisha and tea ... then a nanna!

(The Cairo - Dashur - Sakkara - Giza - The Cairo)

At 8:00, punctual as a Swiss watch out of us to meet our driver Taohid. Cairo is the desert. At 8:30 we arrive at Giza, there is only a coach ... but there is so much of that fog that you do not even see the pyramids. We decided then to go first to visit the other two sites. Dashur to arrive at 9:00 or so, between palm trees and splendid vistas.
The red pyramid, the first true pyramid dating back to 2600 BC is open. We decide to visit, but after the ascent of the staircase leading to the entrance, we meet a group of Asian tourists who are coming out of the tunnel access. Are folded on their knees, puff and complain. Faces have destroyed .... So we fear. Giampaolo (which suffers a bit claustrophobic) waiver. I too am about to give up but then change my mind and comes down with Matthew and Charlotte. The descent is steep and the tunnel is quite narrow but nothing ghastly, could easily come Giampaolo also. There is a very pungent smell inside and the humidity is high. But the beauty and the immense charm of this building, which dates back almost 5000 years, compensates for the small inconvenience. The walls are liscissime and slabs of stone that form the steep ceilings are spectacular. Inside the pyramid there is not much to see but it is the very structure that is extraordinary.
Dashur to pass from Saqqara. This site is very large and rich in ancient artefacts there was truth in what Dashur enthused. Perhaps because chock full of noisy groups of tourists, which removed a bit the atmosphere that reigns in Egypt of the Pharaohs, or perhaps because the infrastructure and services are very poorly treated and most of the tombs were also closed to the public. We visited the northern part, with the incredible pyramid steps, part of the funerary temple of Zoser. Then we direct the Tomb of Mereruka, near the pyramid of Teti, who we really appreciated for its decorations, its detailed carvings and storage of color.
After visiting, since it was already early afternoon to ask Taohid us somewhere to eat. Then lunch in the pleasant garden of Felfela Restaurant (restaurant dell'omonimo branch of Cairo).
We therefore expect the Pyramids of Giza. We are not so sure you can visit the inside of the Pyramid of Cheops, or because now is 15:30 and we know that allow access only to the first 250 people in the day, and want as a result of the review on Lonely Planet, which strongly advised not to visit the people who suffer, even slightly claustrophobic. However at the ticket office told me that they still have 4 tickets! Fate will be .... so buy them on the fly, and since they are also the last, after giving me the rest, immediately close the case with a strong damper!
Triumphant arrival of my family with 4 tickets in hand and Giampaolo convinced to join. In fact there is no problem. The corridor is quite wide, although it is a bit low and we must bend over to walk, but there are convenient handrails to help, both in ascent than in descent. The structure is similar to the Red Pyramid Dashur although most imposing. At shoot a little bit of photos to other pyramids and then turn around to the Pyramid of Cheops to position ourselves in front of the Sphinx. It is already dusk and there is also lots of fog but we can make some fotorafia.
Then invite Taohid to drink tea with us in the bar in front of the Sphinx, and finally we return to Cairo. Tonight at 1:30 alarm! At 4:00 we have the plane back. In Hotel for this night we had only one room, so only a few hours sleep ... Let your luggage and then leave the room for children to make them, and descend in the night at the bar. Too strong! It is a bar frequentatio almost exclusively by Egyptians, who drink it secretly (?) Cognac, etc ... wisky. Lighting, poor cleaning ... but the atmosphere is not to be missed.
Around 21:00 we leave to go to dinner. Choose to return to the Arabesque Restaurant, where we had lunch on the first day at the Egyptian Museum, and we found very good. It is a stone's throw from then go on foot.
Eat everything that we can ... It is our. Farewell to Egyptian cuisine. Return to the hotel almost at midnight. Carlotta actually asks me: "Why always book hotels when you sleep only a few hours?"
"For a few hours in bed is always better than a bench at an airport and then because the holidays are to be exploited until the last minute. Tomorrow, at home, because we can sleep! "
At 2:00, punctual, is the brother of Taohid awaiting us with the car to lead us to the airport. Strictly positioned away from the prying eyes of the hotel porter, load luggage into our car and ... ... .. ARRIVEDERCI CAIRO!