Kenya in total freedom, single and unforgettable experience... : KENYA

elenapelz : africa : kenya : malindi, watamu, lamu, lualenyi
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Travel review KENYA KENYA
Kenya in total freedom, single and unforgettable experience...

Malindi, Watamu, Lamu, Lualenyi

Bouganvillee a casa di Kikka
Bouganvillee a casa di Kikka
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Kenya in total freedom, single and unforgettable experience...

Località: Malindi, Watamu, Lamu, Lualenyi
Stato: KENYA (KE)
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Hello to all! I am Hellen!
It all started by chance, with my boyfriend Mark asked us where we go next summer ... after seeing America and Asia in the past and taking trips Oceania future for our honeymoon, we just lacked a continent: L ' AFRICA.

So we said, why not Kenya? A meta certainly interesting, there are many types of opportunities for travel and a lot of us who love the adventure we have found bread for our teeth! So after finding a Eurofly flight at an affordable price (booked with 5 months in advance), we decided that that was our goal for summer 2006!

So looking on the internet I knew Kikka, an Italian girl who lives in Kenya for over 14 years. I immediately liked for his kindness and availability, so we decided that we would have stayed at the house she rents in Malindi. Choice has never been more apt! Thanks to his help and his friendship and experience, our holiday was fantastic! Guys, if you go to Kenya, visit her website www.vacanzeinkenia.com for any information on kenia, climate, the towns of Malindi, Watamu, Mombasa, safari parks and visit the site.

We have chosen as "base camp" Malindi, that choice proved to be optimal then, since from here you can easily reach all places of excursions and parks for safari. It is also much bigger than Watamu and there are many shops, clubs and restaurants. Thing that we did not find Watamu. Kikka's house is also ideally situated near the sea and in the heart of Malindi. For Safari, we have chosen the private reserve Lualenyi, on the border between Tsavo West and Taita Hills. The reserve has spectacular scenery, there are several herds of animals, although we have not seen no cat, then the field is something unique. State parks probably would see more animals, but here we had the privilege of being the only spectators of a paradise so beautiful, we could get off the jeep over and over again, with lunch in the bush, to see the famous Lion's Rock, and most do Night Safari!

If you have patience, this is our story!

 

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Wood Factory and Kilili Baharini

The other boys left for the safari, so Mark and I are starting our laps. Kikka's husband accompanies us to the factory of wood, near the point of the Matatu, where under a large hut a group of thirty skilful carvers prepare statues and artefacts in typical Kenyan wood directly under your eyes. They are really good.

Not far away a big shed in which you can find wood carved to suit all tastes, from Masai statues, the giraffes, hippos, elephants, bears fruit, vases, anything, really good quality, of every type, size, color. This is a cooperative, prices are set, there is no need to bargain, there is no overcrowding and the choice is endless. We have done here is our first purchase: a pair of Masai, decorated with white beads and red, very carefully, a little 'heavy but really beautiful. Damage can also ship purchases in Italy and pay by credit card.

Should go only to the quality of manufactured products, unparalleled in any other place, and believe me ... I shot a lot .... My boyfriend knows something !!!!! ;-)

We decide to grant a day of relaxation at sea, since there is a beautiful sun and that the next few days will be hectic enough. Do we take a tuk tuk to Kilili Baharini, a village very luxurious, offered by tour operator Hotelplan and Francorosso. Join us and enjoy bed, towel and swimming pool for 700 Ksh each. E 'bit for the local standard, but I was curious to spend at least one day.

And 'certainly beautiful, but not suitable for us as we live the holiday.

Being able to enjoy the freedom of the apartment, the company Kikka and his family, as far as possible in contact with the locals, knowing their culture, their thoughts, their dreams. Unfortunately this is often impossible in villages that offer far more comfort, relaxation and luxury, but in a sanitized that standardizes every place that we believe does not allow you to experience the holiday in contact with the local reality. But this is only our opinion!

But the advantage is that when you want to enjoy these comforts and luxuries you can go there freely, without spending a heritage!

Let our quiet day by the sea under a beautiful sun, and behind a large pool and a well-kept garden, where there are dozens of huge sofa with white cushions, from which the village takes its name, "the sofas on the beach ".

Dinner at home with an excellent tomato paste, thanks to super tomatoes bought from the banquet of the "mama" in front of the Post Office, recommended that in addition to cost very little the owners are very honest and you do not ask higher prices just because you white skin.
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Time to start!! Arrival in Mombasa and transfer to Malindi

After months of hard work and study ... finally arrives on August 4, the date of departure! We leave for Milan Malpensa time before, where we had to leave at 22.00 .... Instead, surprise of surprises, DELAY IN 4 HOURS, starting at 2 am, then that son became the 2:30! Does not matter, at least eat free motorway to Malpensa and dormicchiamo on scomodissime chairs of the waiting room. Then we board, flight excellent, quiet, do stop in Zanzibar, and with some time delay landed in Mombasa.

After passing the visa made at Malpensa Italy, the passport and customs without any problems, leave and find a guy with the sign "ELENA & MARCO" which brings us to the car of Khaled, a taxi driver from mandatoci Kikka, which leads us to Malindi.

The road is hallucinating and impact with the reality of Kenya certainly very strong, we thought he had really seen the poverty in the suburbs of Thailand and Mexico, but they were not anything to compare! Shocked by the poverty of this land, so beautiful but so poor, I'll move on Mombasa Malindi trying to avoid the hole on the floor that seem chasms! Khaled is very good, becca not one, but we are still a little 'rough ... lanes exist, but rather than traveling on your road is a slalom between the hole, hoping that no one does not arrive on the other hand! !

Finally we come to Malindi, after about two and a half hour trip. Khaled gives us very good news, before you take us to go home to his house, where Luciano and will take home with us .... Who is Luciano? Lucianino is likeable rascal cercopiteco the Kikka.

We arrive at the home of Khaled and ... there it is! Finally we see it!

It falls on the head Khaled and not a second spring, until Khaled guide, Luciano is on the shoulders behind the head and to keep in balance with those sticks his hands to the ears of delicious Khaled ... missed a scene!

Here we are finally home! Kikka is still at work, so give us a warm welcome to her husband with their child for 8 years.

The house, adjacent to the Kikka, is located in a large garden full of bougainvillea of every color, just under five minutes from the sea and in a quiet area and tranquilla.E 'really great: there is also an outside veranda with wicker parlor. Inside a large room with relaxation area with sofas and coffee table, dining room and right a great kitchen, and three bedrooms, each with its own bathroom. We were truly fabulous, four poster beds with mosquito nets, huge and very romantic! All the rooms are really spacious and bright, a perfect house!

After taken a few minutes we decide to leave immediately on discovery of Malindi. To guide us from the Kikka's husband, who accompanies us on the beach first to see the sea, then in the center of Malindi to do some 'spending. First in a supermarket where we found Italian Italian pasta (Barilla too), olive oil, sauces, Barilla, anything useful. Then we were one of their supermarkets, Al Razak, where we found their typical products, including fantastic fruit juices (which should be diluted !!!), jam and rice.

In the evening we decide to go out again in the company of some friends and we all eat together at the famous restaurant "The Old Man And The Sea" by the seaside, where with an average of 9-10 euro we ate really well, both those who made the flesh, who both took fish. Ce had recommended in Italy and I must say it is really worth the pain! Finally, the guys we have accompanied the Italian gelateria Oasis, where the ice cream is truly unique. Make a cup with ice cream and fresh fruit that is something irresistible!

Finally Nanne deserve ... .... in that fantastic bed!
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Discovering Malindi

Taking advantage of the company of friends of Mark, now we take the Tuk Tuk to the center of Malindi, and after five minutes we have arrived and we dive immediately into the true African ambience!

We visit the Old Market, the main street that leads from Malindi to Lamu, we breakfast at the famous Karen Blixen Bar, in the square dell'elefante, un po 'il sibolo the Italians in Malindi. And 'here that a large Italian community living in Malindi is found. There is also an Italian flag hanging from the tusks of the great elephant, perhaps mindful of the crazy night World Cup!

Take another tuk tuk and go immediately to the Marine Park, where we do the first bath in the Indian Ocean, today regrettably quite slight, will be more happy kite-surfer. Then unfortunately the feeble sun was leaving the place of blacks and Nuvoloni starts to rain, escaped with a Tuk Tuk back to Malindi where to eat in a bar-restaurant frequented only by the locals, the Malindi Beach Restaurant, near the market tourism, where we eat good samosa meat and vegetables! And forget about whether the most!

The samosa is very similar to Chinese spring rolls for sheet, triangular, with a filling of meat, fish or vegetables of your choice. They are really good!

Back to the serene and continue our tour to Malindi, to finish the ice cream for dinner Oasis, where we take a giant cup of ice cream with fresh fruit .... A real bomb!
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Wood Factory and Kilili Baharini

The other boys left for the safari, so Mark and I are starting our laps. Kikka's husband accompanies us to the factory of wood, near the point of the Matatu, where under a large hut a group of thirty skilful carvers prepare statues and artefacts in typical Kenyan wood directly under your eyes. They are really good.

Not far away a big shed in which you can find wood carved to suit all tastes, from Masai statues, the giraffes, hippos, elephants, bears fruit, vases, anything, really good quality, of every type, size, color. This is a cooperative, prices are set, there is no need to bargain, there is no overcrowding and the choice is endless. We have done here is our first purchase: a pair of Masai, decorated with white beads and red, very carefully, a little 'heavy but really beautiful. Damage can also ship purchases in Italy and pay by credit card.

Should go only to the quality of manufactured products, unparalleled in any other place, and believe me ... I shot a lot .... My boyfriend knows something !!!!! ;-)

We decide to grant a day of relaxation at sea, since there is a beautiful sun and that the next few days will be hectic enough. Do we take a tuk tuk to Kilili Baharini, a village very luxurious, offered by tour operator Hotelplan and Francorosso. Join us and enjoy bed, towel and swimming pool for 700 Ksh each. E 'bit for the local standard, but I was curious to spend at least one day.

And 'certainly beautiful, but not suitable for us as we live the holiday.

Being able to enjoy the freedom of the apartment, the company Kikka and his family, as far as possible in contact with the locals, knowing their culture, their thoughts, their dreams. Unfortunately this is often impossible in villages that offer far more comfort, relaxation and luxury, but in a sanitized that standardizes every place that we believe does not allow you to experience the holiday in contact with the local reality. But this is only our opinion!

But the advantage is that when you want to enjoy these comforts and luxuries you can go there freely, without spending a heritage!

Let our quiet day by the sea under a beautiful sun, and behind a large pool and a well-kept garden, where there are dozens of huge sofa with white cushions, from which the village takes its name, "the sofas on the beach ".

Dinner at home with an excellent tomato paste, thanks to super tomatoes bought from the banquet of the "mama" in front of the Post Office, recommended that in addition to cost very little the owners are very honest and you do not ask higher prices just because you white skin.
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Malindi marine park

Another sunny day at the park Marino, totally relaxed. Then run to the office of the Malindi Kenya Airways, have moved on safari, so I take this opportunity to do two nights in Lamu instead of one as expected.

We found the flight, 80 euros round trip, then hear the hotel booked by Jannat House and have also incredible 8 night! Fantastico!
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Lamu

Let's take the tuk tuk in the morning in front of the house and we do bring to the airport. Know there while awaiting a pair of Dutch, including their direct Lamu, Jaqueline and Reinard. With them spend unforgettable days on this island, UNESCO heritage since 2001.

We start in good time, good flight and landed in Lamu after about 30 minutes. The airport, if one can define (!) Is a group of houses with roof macuti. A comparison airport of Koh Samui in Thailand seems to Milan Malpensa!

We expect a nice gentleman sent from Jannat House, which takes us to the pier, where we take a boat that brings us to the island of Lamu. The airport is in fact on the face: Manda Island. In 10 minutes we get even.

E 'indescribable emotion set foot on this island. It seems to be catapulted into a world deeply relaxed and calm, with scenes of the past. Time seems to stand still in Lamu, for many years. We move only on foot here, or riding a donkey, of which the island is full. The streets are very narrow and somewhat 'dark because the buildings are very high and therefore the only light filters from above and makes it much more fascinating.

I will be mad, maybe no, but soon fell to Lamu I felt a kind of déjà-vu ... I lived in Venice for a few years for the university, and Lamu in some respects reminds me a lot. The streets narrow, dark, a little 'dirty, but it's fascinating, including wander is beautiful, miss, look what the people ... E' un po 'the Venice of traits with strong Muslim Arabs, in style and architecture of the buildings. I have felt that way.

Our guide leads us through the narrow streets to the hotel. These lanes are a maze in which it seems impossible to find a way ....

The JANNAT HOUSE is very beautiful, managed by the Swedes, quiet, clean and in style of Lamu. We have chosen a room Bustani, mainly to the bed. Indeed, given the size of my boyfriend GMO 2 m high'd seen all the sites of hotels and Jannat house was the only one that offers a room with a bed with no wood at the bottom of your feet off!

The Bustani Room is romantic, overlooking the pool; bougainvilleas are on bed and bath room. There is no hot water, as in almost all the hotels in Lamu, but it is so hot that there is need.

Lunch, an excellent restaurant and also the guidance, as agreed, to take us back after an hour for a visit to the town of Lamu. Can not see well without the help of a local. We have in the various districts, that Arab and Swahili, with a colorful fruit market, the mosque, on the seafront and then in the innermost of the island, where children are playing catch up to the narrow alleys, urlandoti Jamboooooooooooooooooo! ! Here we saw a glimpse of reality that will always remain local imprinted in our memories of Lamu ...

E 'a reality too different from ours and I believe that the reactions can not be that extreme to Lamu or the love or hatred. E 'a predominantly Muslim city, as is the coast of Kenya, with the sewers in the open air (which is only water, absolutely odorless) in tiny channels on the sides of small streets. The strong smell of excrement is one of the donkeys, the only means of transport. There is also the Donkey Sanctuary, where they are "admitted" the sick donkeys.

But what struck us most is the Lamu people. In the streets, even in the darkest and paths outside the most common greeting you all. Children will cry joyful JAMBOOOOOO! Feeling at home, as other non-conventional and may be this city.

In the evening at dinner we gathered with Jaqueline Reinard and dine at the Roof Top Steak House Restaurant .... Certainly nice place, eat buonino, but ... that is good work in Kenya all-pole pole (slowly), but the expectation of 2 hours was really absurd!

We agree with them for the day after: a dutiful Dhow trip, the typical sailboat Kenyan.
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Lamu: sailing with a Dhow

Here we are leaving for the day in the famous Dhow, with Captain Kelly and his crew: 5 boys one of the most beautiful!

We go now to fishing near Manda Island, where the spoils but for us tourists inexperienced 4 is very thin (it is best way to fish, which with my son is imbranataggine made a nice dinner with all the shrimp that have stolen from my love ;-) ...). A Captain Kelly was better.

Then straight to the beach of Shell to make a refreshing swim and a ride on the beautiful beach .. then slurp: a dish of fish, rice and coconut sauce with peppers and fruits like bananas excellent fresh ...

Send finally visit, where I chat and Jaqueline fail to lose!

Contact with these children so kind and decent in their poverty makes us appreciate even more what we are experiencing. E 'bello il posto, beautiful experience, but are the people that make it special.

On the way back I was almost moved: on the boat, with the background noise of the sea, the boys begin to sing together their and our songs. Their only means of overturned buckets as drums and pieces of wood flying in order to keep pace ... and their 5 items, the result is skin goose.

One of the guys there said "We are poor, we know that we were born here and die here, we will never have the chance to see the world, but we are happy and we try to give happiness to others also."

Coconut bhè, I really believe that that day will be successful, because you often think with great nostalgia for that moment so pure and true past together.
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Lamu: donkey riding and back to Malindi

Pre-alarm at dawn as usual, with the muezzin from the mosque to pray ... an awakening absolutely unusual, impossible to pretend not to so high is the volume of the speakers ... open your eyes and after a few minutes of rincoglionimento, you ask: "but where cabbages are finished? "... Then think of Lamu, the port, its people and smile.

Six out of the magical world.

Alas it is already time to go. Marco is sad, does not want to leave ... I'm going there next.

It 'great after only a couple of days here pass on the street or on the dock and hear the local people recognize you and greets you by name calling .... Where ever we will find another place like this? We must return.

For the last morning in Lamu do the insane: we want to do ... riding donkey. Riding the ass !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If I say to someone who knows me will not believe ever!

It is strong, we have another shot po 'for the city, sometimes running sometimes slowly, with the fear that at any moment that poor donkey is tired of your weight and you rightly hurled to the ground! Instead all liscio row, are very docile and sweet.

My boyfriend would say a phrase well known to him "but you realize .... Esperieeeeeeeeeenza that! "

We spend an hour shopping and buy a picture that we will remember forever this magical place: it is an oil canvas of the painter Adam Musa, is a local gallops sull'asino in one of the typical streets of here.

At home it makes us be nostalgia whenever they look!

Let us return to the hotel, we find the leadership of the first day that brings us back to the pier where we take the boat to Manda Airport.

Return flight tranquil land in Malindi in perfect time.

We go out to dinner "I love pizza" with Kikka and his family to tell them of our experience, thanks for bringing us Kikka Lamu know!
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Safari in Lualenyi

Do not even give us a day of truce, in the morning at 4.00 am we are already awake as crickets, ready to leave for the SAFARI. Fatty, the Kenyan miciona sweeter that we will look angry! He wanted to sleep again!

We decided to do a safari Lualenyi for two reasons: the privilege of being in a private reserve allows you to be the only spectator of the savanna, which in public parks is not always happening and that you can remain in the bush even after the sunset , making a small game drive at night ... spectacular!

After 5 hours of travel through areas really fascinating and touching, we come to Lualenyi.

This is a private reserve of 40,000 hectares, more or less great as the Amboseli and managed by Gremmo Gianni, an Italian who has the land under concession. The field is located on a hill about a thousand meters of altitude, with a dining room in style with a view of the savannah ... the eye can see. The tent, so if you can call it, is about 4 meters long and wide, more or less three, with very comfortable beds (if there was Mark's son !!!), very comfortable wardrobe area, bathroom with shower and hot water ... l ' ideal after a day of safari!

Start off for the game-drive ... the emotions come one after the other zebras, elephants, giraffes, African guinea fowl, antelope, kongoni, impala ....

And then the sunset, the sun sets behind the thorny acacia trees, silence, only you, the savanna and a sense of infinity, freedom never experienced before. Then descends in the evening. You feel almost uncomfortable in the dark, eyes gaze upon you from the bush, you're at home, you're a guest in this paradise.

The tracer rooms on the top of the jeep with a big lighthouse and how to spell many little eyes light up at night. Feelings are indescribable.

Returning to camp, drink around the fire under a starry sky that I have never found elsewhere, and then dinner worthy of the best restaurant: hand-made ravioli, baked potatoes, fillet ... but we are in the bush?!

After eaten by wolves we are a nice chat with Chris, our accompanist during the safari, and patient person with a smile that puts you immediately at your ease, that tells us of his life in Kenya, veterinarian first, then his work a Lualenyi. Us by his fascinating stories. We want this day never end, so it was nice and intense, but it is better to go to sleep, wake up early tomorrow!
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e 13 - Safari

We wake up it is still dark, make, a child of the field, gives us a good day with his warm "Jamboooooooooo"! Breakfast and then on, all on the jeep towards the pools of water, looking for animals. We find huge flocks of elephants, elephant with many tens of giraffes that stop a curious look and then run away, buffissime with their pace all wrong! We see many species of birds, the jackal, the antelope of the kudu, a small dik-dik and many ostriches!

Chris takes us on a very special place, Lion's Rock. Place where Disney drew the inspiration for the film "The Lion King."

Go up with the jeep in front of us ... the savannah: kilometers and kilometers of savannah as the eye can see. Then, it seems a spell, the few clouds are sparsely to disappear ... and here it is my dream come true: I see KILIMANJARO.

Chris then takes us to a clearing, there is great and ... un'acacia incredible table below!

Lunch in the middle of the bush!

Then again in the jeep, with the hope of seeing the lion, but nothing to be done, we are somewhat 'demoralized, we approach a herd of 30 elephants and 40 .... Here is a wonderful conclusion for our safari: three matriarch leading to a small swimming in a pond: it has just one week of life. Chris explains that so lowering its body temperature .. but in the meantime he enjoys a little world to roll in the mud, his verses are buffissimi!

The elefantesse drink, we look cautious, but we are so in trance for this magnificent scene that does not move a finger. Unique and indescribable.
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...following days, relax in Malindi and Watamu

Spend our last days of holiday in Malindi and Watamu, based on total relaxation, we support thanks to the excellent suggestions Kikka to new villages, where for derisory figures we have swimming pool, sun beds and towels. Too easy!

Also in Watamu, the sea is very beautiful and the sand seems powder ... not even in the Caribbean or Asia, we have never found a sand so!

Visit gede, ancient ruins of a city mysteriously abandoned Arab and Che Chale, the golden beach ... it seems that someone has moved to throw tons of gold glitter on the sand, it's fantastic!

Let us return to the Marine Park, an oasis of tranquility and silence, and then to the delight of Mark ... shopping, shopping, shopping!

In the evening we are often left with Kikka and your family in new restaurants and more and more good! And for dinner later in Swahili at home with Kikka Alberto, Clare and Agata: our fellow mitici apartment!
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Last day in Kenia ... :-(

What can we say ...

The silence of the savannah, the hustle of Malindi, the scent of earth and sea, the taste of spices ... it does not find most, if not coming back here. Unforgettable colors of this land, the eyes of children and the friendliness of people. Especially that of Kikka and his family, whose warmth made our holiday even more special, making us feel at home.

We can only hope to return soon!

And Mark Ely



PS

Thanks to everyone who helped make this trip more special: first Kikka dutifully, his invaluable help and his experience and even more for the kindness and friendship! Thank you for the wonderful evenings spent together and for chatting on the veranda!

Thanks to Khaled Jamil and the taxi that brought us everywhere, and Chris, who always kept nice and clean our room, leaving us always fresh flowers on our bed.

Finally thanks to the children: Daniela and Bob with their apartment, with Alberto Chiara and Agata, who by their sympathy have made our holiday even more unique!



Finally, two thoughts on "our" animals:

one in particular goes to the joyful Lucianino, which unfortunately is no longer to cheer for our holiday in Kenya and to be pampered by Kikka that was so affectionate ... will never be the same house without the little Lucy.

The second goes to "small" miciona Fatty, a beautiful red Gatton, with its cast and its sweetness has always followed me everywhere around the door every evening, returning with thousands miao my cuddles! A virtual carezzina for you! Guys, if you will go to Kenya Let many cuddles from me!

Kenya good to all!

DICTIONARY



Tuk Tuk - small bee used as a taxi Ksh 50 each way on the day, 100 pm, 100 for the Marine Park of Malindi.

Matatu - collective taxi, which is very similar to Mexican but much more crowded on a bus of 12 seats at times leading to 20 people on board! We have avoided, except for short distances in the absence of Tuk Tuk. Economic strategy, a race can cost just Ksh 20-30

Pole Pole - slowly

Bui-Bui - traditional Muslim dress for women



ADVICE

- Upon arrival at the airport you take the bag to move it and there is to it to change my mind, prepare a little 'of change.

- The Malindi Mombasa road is a real disaster if you do it yourself travel advice trafficking in Nairobi, then Nairobi-Malindi with Kenya Airways. Flight and excellent prices for any help ask Kikka. Save two hours, still nice to see a glimpse of Africa, but strongly not recommended for the quality of the road ... all holes for two and a half hours!

- Lamu. Stay at least 2 nights, it's worth it. Bring a torch, the streets are very dark and it is difficult to navigate. Throughout the coast, but perhaps even more strongly advice to leave for the sea skirts and dresses and even wear jeans or long skirts. Muslim women wearing the dark-dark, a long black gown to the foot and with long sleeves and often have even covered his face. Unmarried women have only the crack of the eyes uncovered. Turn in miniskirt is not the best.

Recommended Jannat House hotel, excellent location, clean and very romantic. As the Bush Garden restaurant, thanks for having recommended Kikka .... What scorpacciate fish.

- For the safari bring warm clothes and kway.

- To call in italy, take a local sim mooooooooolto ... cheaper!

For information on kenia, climate, the towns of Malindi, Watamu, Mombasa, safari parks and visit www.vacanzeinkenia.com
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