Masai's Life
Saying that mine was just a simple journey ... Oh no! Maybe saying it was a fantastic unrepeatable adventure is more appropriate.
I said this because we live in Kenya.. and being for a long month between masai and some other local tribes filled me with... I don't know... but certainly a lot of love for life and for the African people in general.
I started with my husband from Malindi (city where we live) and by bus we direct towards Mombasa. Once there we continued to Taveta where, after 8 hours of travel through the savannah, escorted by police to prevent pirate attacks, we finally arrived for our last (but not least) destination.
We reached our goal with another vehicle (without windows, with handkerchiefs on the lips to avoid swallowing great amounts of red earth arriving from road). A goal reached after a long wait in a Taveta bar (about 5 hours sitting at the table, with a lot of people who drank Tusker and Pilsner, the favorite local beers).
From Taveta to Njukini (small even tiny masai village): What an emotion. Many huts.... many modern buildings (unproper to define that so) made of old wood, cardboard and rusty sheets. Children running everywhere, women with baskets on the head and large 20-liter jerrycans transported, with a handkerchief around the front, hunged on shoulders. It would be a torture for my poor neck. But the pride of masai women, unique administrators of their home management, makes the difference. Everywhere pipes, cow dung and mud. A mix that would horrify only at thought our city well-jewelled women .
Some children are frightened by my sight. Was it possible because my white color? The skin of an African at contact with fire becomes pink...... and me? I was entirely burned! Only after a while was clear to children that I was like them, and that we differed only for the color.
We booked in a hotel very similar to our old pensions..... a squalor, but just to undernote the kindness of the person who accepted us. We made a shower every day in the river (electricity and water lack here) and that was the only moment that I felt cool.. The current water of this river comes from the sources of Kilimanjaro. Something magnificent. The monkeys were jumping from a tree to another, thousands of birds were singing while children came with hope to see the "white woman" a little less unveiled. Probably they wonder if I was one of them! My husband scared them only in one way: by showing them the camera, of which (we immediately noticed) they had a tremendous fear. Maybe... they did not even know what it was.
Once made the shower every morning we walked to the inwards of Manyatta. We have been called to drink the chai with them (tea with hot milk) to the English way. All wanted white people to be sitting at their hut. All trying to understand, know, see, and listen to me with the naivety of those who don't know... all the stories of our "civilized and modern" world.... Modern... Civilised... I am not so much convinced that we are more normal than them.
I saw children share a candy and even a piece of bread. I saw women breastfeed children of other masai... only because they could!
I saw crying and laughing. I passed an entire day as host in a circumcision ceremony (luckily here infibulation is not applied). And I saw a whole masai tribe well dressed, with all the ornaments worthy of the finest of our western jewellers, all... dancing and smiling during their day of celebration. Me, a guest at the forefront, on my behalf I was joyful for their happiness'.
A wonderful day... instead,... that spent immersed in the bush. We crossed the depth of the bush (the true African savannah) and we have been walking for about 12 hours, hoping to meet animals of the various species. Me, so hesitant and terrified, (if I'd met a lion... I prefer not to think about it) I realize only now our irresponsibility. My husband... proud, safe and happy of danger escaped... at present day he still laughs of me. But I have to say that to meet gazelles, impalas, gnus, and giraffes was wonderful. We met masai children, proud protectors of groups of cows and goats, directing their livestock to the savannah. They got no fear for them lives, all accustomed to live in the utmost freedom. It seems like a dream to me ... walking in endless savannah between free wild animals. An unbelievable feeling. At evening we returned to our "hotel" totally tired (me for sure). The one of today was a sensation I needed to experience again. I felt really free and, I repeat, only now I realize about possible dangers, perhaps, I challenged.
Another day we went under a big wattle tree immersed in the bush, to speak with a group of masai met together at our request. I brought them a message that I could not believe to be so upsetting for their state of mind. A friend given us the OK to build at his own expense a well in a place far away from the river. A place that they could have the best chance to reach, without having to walk for kms to take the daily supply of water. The reaction of the famous discreet masai tribe? The chief lifted and started to thank us (I had a translator nearby) telling me that from that moment they would pray for me as I should became their second God. I could not hold back tears. Me, a simple spokesman for a message... venerated by so incredible people... by so many men... by a group of elder masai.
We returned to the village, much more happy than ever in our lives. Our days passed in the village, between women and children, that with their smiles donate us wonderful days in full simplicity, and really unforgettable hours. We will return... as we did for every year... since 2001. We will return and if someone wants to join us, we will certainly be very happy to accept him.
A hug,
Tellonia
P.S.: I forgot, my husband is a masai...