Travel review LIBYAN ARAB JAMAHIRIYA 
Libya - Through dunes and Roman ruins
Tripoli, Sabratha, Ghadames, Ghat, Acacus, Leptis Magna
Rovine di Sabratha
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Libya - Through dunes and Roman ruins
Text and photos by Bruno Visca
Travel is a door through which you exit from the reality known and enter into another reality unexplored, which resembles the dream.
Guy de Maupassant
It is with great emotion that we go back to the desert! Magical place for himself that we in the West, we live every day in a chaotic world, it seems like an infinite universe outside of reality. The beauty of the landscapes, the colors of the dunes that vary continuously over time, taking at sunset and at dawn shading reflections with hardly describe. The intense blue sky during the day and overflowing with stars in the nights infuses the traveler a sense of serenity and lead to better appreciate the beauty of nature. The desert is a place where not only the physical but also the spirit travels with slow rhythms: the clock is completely unnecessary. From the desert has always fascinated mankind. Tuareg say: "God created the world to give to a house, the desert because there are its soul."
At about 1200 km south of the Mediterranean coast of Tripolitania, Libya, is one of the most fascinating regions Sahara: the massive dell'Acacus, a sandstone plateau with a surface, from north to south, a hundred miles, interspersed by sand dunes and extraordinary rock formations shaped by wind, a veritable outdoor museum. The Acacus stretches 7,500 sq km. It is a park with no guardians, but to access it you must be accompanied by a guide and have a permit to be submitted at checkpoints. The beauty of this place is absolute, but what makes the area a heritage are mostly paintings and stone carvings, testimony of the presence in this region. On rocks in the ravines and protected from erosion weathering are hunting scenes and moments of everyday life depictions of elephants, giraffes and other animals of the African savannah testified that once this region was not desert, but had a similar ecosystem that's Central Africa. It was around the third millennium a.C. that the desert began to advance inexorably, by decreasing the wildlife and vegetation and forcing the shepherds to leave the region in search of new pastures in major river basins. The presence of natural shelters in the sandstone massif has also allowed the preservation of the magnificent cave paintings. The first information on the presence of these paintings date from the late nineteenth century, but was not given a precise location, was only nine hundred that were made the first archaeological explorations led to discover this extraordinary open-air museum, where the nature and 'ability of man have merged, creating an unforgettable spectacle.
It is in this region that, after a quick visit to the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Sabratha, is where a lot of our trip.
Milan, Turin, Rome – Tripoli (Airplane)
I and other fellow travelers started from Turin, at the airport of Rome we have the other members of the group, all 20 persons. We embark on Tripoli along with 11 boxes with more food with another food containing cash pots, pans, colander and anything needed for cooking. The plane part with about 2 hours late at 16:45 and landed at Tripoli. Change 200 euros per head, 150 for the common case and 50 for personal expenses (1 euro = 1607 DL). At we find a charge that the agency has failed to take. We transfer our luggage on the two means that we expect, a bus 17 +4 seats plus a 6-seat minibus and ½ hours we arrive at the hotel. The delay of the flight we took the time to visit the city. In the evening we meet the locals to provide for off-road drivers and driving. This is not just a courtesy visit, must collect the agreed sum for all services! After exchanging greetings and Rite VERSAILLES want the money collected in advance by all participants. Not ever! Nell'atrio There are too many prying eyes, it is not prudent to count the notes in the presence of all. Leads me on his car in the parking lot, in the dark and secluded. While we're counting the money, which takes a while, I see the approach lights some torches. This is a companion who, having seen heading toward the parking lot in the corresponding Libyan company, began to worry about me and were trying to venendomi!
Tripoli – Sabratha – Kabaw – Nalut - Ghadames (Bus - 650 Km – 14 h)
Despite the alarm at 6, you can not start before the 8th We discover immediately that it must adapt to the slow rhythms of the place, do not hurry and do not have to watch the clock. Paid accommodation withdrawn passports know the cop-guide will accompany us throughout the journey. In about an hour we reach the archaeological site of Sabratha, do not take the lead as not available in Italian. To visit the site takes about 2 hours. The old Roman city is very beautiful, built on the seashore in the 1st century AD and is a necessary step for those who visit Libya. The origins of the name of the city are lost in time, but it is considered that due to Libyan-Berber word which means "grain market". Do not miss the museum. By a deviation of 9 km we visit the town of Berber Kabaw with its characteristic qasr (fortified granary) where they were collected and stored grains and skins for the oil and olives. The qasr, very interesting, has more than 700 years and maintains an incredible medieval charm. The barn, now no longer used, is placed in an impregnable position, on top of a hill and shows how the protection of cereals was almost as important to the preservation of the water. Back on the main road you reach the village and left half of Nalut, also with a characteristic qasr, once pride of the old town but now almost entirely surrounded by the ruins of the deserted village. It arrives in Ghadames to 22 and, after placement in hotel, dinner in a restaurant near the hotel. What is missing most during the trip transfers are heaps of garbage that are the sides of the road, especially near Tripoli.
Ghadames – Medina - Hammada al Hamra (Jeep – 100 Km – 3,5 h)
After breakfast we make the drivers aware of the 6 Libyans who will lead us into the desert along with the cop-driving. 8 to load luggage on the jeep and, accompanied by a friendly guide who speaks good Italian, will visit the medina, a maze of narrow streets covered with skylights declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. After purchasing fruits, vegetables, eggs, bread, water, 2 Catini, 3 plastic mats to sit during meals and a reduction in the gas cylinder, at 13.30 finally leaves for the desert. Immediately the paved road ends and you enter nell'Hammada al Hamra. The scenery is quite monotonous, a vast rocky plain. During the journey is the first of many failures jeep, rupture of the accelerator cable. Fortunately the drivers are good mechanics and repair in 45 minutes on medium. Even the holes will be almost daily. The only criticism that can be done is the age of the media. 17 to reach the area where the place field, place the edge of the runway with a little 'sand. The place is good, not great. I decide not to place the tent but to sleep under the stars away from my sleeping bag, which I will also in all other areas. During the night, several times, a light drizzle falls. It seems strange but sometimes in the desert rains.
Hammada al Hamra – Erg Hubari (Jeep – 290 Km – 8,5 h)
Alarm at 7.30, as it will be for all the successive mornings in the desert. Failure at 9.30 seconds, a shock of a jeep sold. According to the drivers is not an essential element, and then simply be deleted! In a place called Liba, 5 km from the Algerian border, there is supply of firewood collecting dry bushes of the area. The journey continues in a monotonous environment, a vast plain of earth and stones with rare shrubs. An endless horizon to 360 º. 15 to stop at a vantage point from where, in the distance, one can see the first dunes. At 17.45 we arrive at the place suitable to house the field. Finally, among the dunes in an area with very fine sand-colored carrot. After dinner, around the fire, pleasant evening in the company of the drivers and guides.
Dune di Diwana – Ghat (Jeep – 220 Km – 10 h)
Last night there was a high humidity, all the tents are wet. As usual we start at 9am on a stage that will be particularly busy. After many ups a jeep stops for a failure of the clutch. It is not repairable on site so you need to tow, with many difficulties due to the nature of the terrain and sand. After 50 km of towing with many ups, meets the paved road that leads to Ghat. The jeep is left at the shop of a village Ghat and reach with a car less. The incident is missed so much time, instead of reaching 13, now scheduled, you arrive at 19th 29, 30 and December 31 to Ghat, to celebrate the new year, the festival is held the Tuareg. This is an event for which any part of the desert him famous and beautiful "blue men". Dances, songs, show their artefacts, an extraordinary tribute to their culture which they jealously preserve their traditions. Thus, after having assembled the tents in the camping Les Dunes and have dinner, let's watch the show which lasts until late at night. Celebrating in an unusual way the new year.
Ghat – Visit to Medina - Fozzigiaren Arch(Jeep – 170 Km – 9 h)
The jeep is not damaged repairable in a short time, for a replacement phone in the correspondent in Tripoli that proved efficient in a few hours can do to replace. In the morning, while the rest of the group visiting the medina, accompanied by the policeman-I go driving in an agency for confirmation of the flights of the return journey. After purchasing water, vegetables, fruit and bread, at 13.30 we start for the Acacus. Fortunately, the sun shines has taken the place of clouds and mist that velava the landscape in recent days. The first part of the track runs on a stony ground, the scene reflects what has been seen in previous days, a flat land with an endless horizon to 360 º. Approaching the park the landscape changes, they start to see beautiful dunes of yellow color and unusual rock formations. Crossed the boundaries of the park, the landscape is breathtaking: soaring pinnacles protruding from the sand and alternate with the dunes. The Acacus alone is worth the entire trip! 18 to arrive in the vicinity dell'Arco Fozzigiaren where does the field. Unfortunate that the arch is not visible, patience, tomorrow we could observe closely. This is certainly the best time to admire the scenery, when the light of sunset highlights the depth of the dunes and enhances colors.
Fozzigiaren Arch – Wadi Teshuinat (Jeep – 80 Km – 8 h)
Usual starting at 9 am. Suddenly appears majestic l `arc Fozzigiaren in a square in which the various branches of uadi have created a sort of internal basin. Short stage today, about 80 km, with small shifts in the heart dell' Acacus and with many stops for observation of the famous cave paintings. The oldest paintings date back 10,000 years ago depict animals that now inhabit only the most African savannas. 12 is a stop at a large tank supplied with water. The landscapes are spectacular, with massive pinnacles which emerge from the sand. The path continues between wadis, dunes, natural arches and pinnacles, which alternate continuously. In the afternoon we stop at the hut Amrhar, an old Tuareg who made the guide dell'archeologia Italian Fabrizio Mori. He showed us his photos of archeology and in the company, to be photographed, claim 5 DL. At a relative buy a goat that will be cooked by our drivers.
Wadi Teshuinat – Erg Murzuq (Jeep – 210 Km – 7,5 h)
Today reluctantly leave the Acacus. Before exiting the park we meet another beautiful natural arch. We put them into a vast plain surrounded by high dunes that gradually give way to mountains of earth and stones. The journey continues in the plains throughout the morning between landscapes that change continuously. To 12:30 lunch stop in a sandy area, but the sand is short, stony ground again, always the same at the horizon and flat. The boredom is broken by a stopover in Kassa wadi, where it seems to have been a prehistoric settlement, to admire the graffiti inscribed on large stones. The landscape around us is lunar, all stones in a vast plain with some small hills, also of stone. Shortly before arriving in the area of the field we find the dunes, the scenery changes dramatically and the place where you place the field is amazing. Imponemte a dune above it, and many of us reach the top. The altimeter, at the top, marks 935 meters while the field is located 780 meters. A total of 155 meters in altitude that paths in the sand, have made themselves felt. We have abandoned the Acacus to submit nell'Erg Murzuq, an expanse of undulating dunes as the eye can see, the high mountains of sand up to 200 meters which are the real harmonic chain lines.
Erg Murzuq – Wadi Baju (Jeep – 150 Km – 9 h)
Last night was cold. Alarm, as usual, to 7.30.É yet we are all dark and cold. We heat around the fire with a cup of hot coffee. Arrives at 8.30 am the sun and now the temperature is raised. Shortly after departure will leave the dunes again and enters a vast, flat plain that, after about an hour, gives way to rock the ocean, an expanse of stones as the eye can see. The cross and shortly before 11, we reach the wadi Methkandoush, one of the largest concentrations of rock engravings in the world. Was once a river along which there were many human settlements. Its length is about 12 Km on foot, in about 3 hours, 8 we will admire the graffiti depicting giraffes, crocodiles, elephants and other animals that populated the area before the desertification. The walk is pleasant, not at all tiring, and the jeep waiting for us at the end of the wadi. Lunch and after the visit to the two most important graffiti, the Cats Mammon and the Crocodile, the ocean riattraversiamo stone which leaves then place in a flat area that we at 80 Km / hr. At 18.15 we find the dunes and we pause to place the field. The sun is setting, pulling an icy wind and cold.
Wadi Baju – Erg Oubari (Jeep – 160 Km – 7 h)
During the night the temperature is significantly decreased. Probably fell even below zero because the tents are covered with a thin layer of ice. In the sleeping bag, outdoor, I have felt the drop in temperature just at dawn. After two hours, with the last stretch on asphalt, we reach Germany, the old Garama, capital of bellicose Garamanti cited by Latin authors and the southernmost point of Roman penetration in African continent. Visit the medina and the museum. Shower and lunch at a campsite where there is the possibility of change, even if the operation is rather long because the operator of the field must go to his house to collect the money. We thought to call Italy but the phones do not work and the only distributor is out of gas. It shortens the step because the jeep, after having left in the area of the field, returning to Germany until the gasoline which should arrive in the evening. We are new in a beautiful place, surrounded by high dunes. Climb higher on the wait for the sunset. As soon as the sun went down the dune shadows are lengthening. It is an indescribable landscape, a beauty that to which the many photos taken will certainly not due to merit. One negative point that the temperature, with the sunset, decreases rapidly. Usual evening round the fire this evening is late, up to 23.30 with the nice company of our driver and guide.
Erg Oubari – Germa - Fjeaj (Jeep – 75 Km – 6 h)
Last night was not cold as the previous one. Unfortunately, it is the last day in the desert will dismantle the field with regret, knowing that no longer fit the tents. He had proposed to sleep one more night in a tent in the dunes near Fjeaj rather than a cold and anonymous hostel, but the next day, they provided a very long to reach the coast, we should dismantle the camp again with the dark. Today we visit one of the most interesting of the Libyan Sahara, lakes Oubari. There are three lakes with characteristic high salt content in many oases located and surrounded by date palms. If the outside temperature permits it is strongly recommended to check the bathroom, let them float in the water surrounded by sand dunes is certainly a beautiful experience. This season is quite cold but, enhanced by our guide who was diving and I wanted to try to dive too. The water is warm, take a swim was certainly pleasant, but the only problem was presented at the time of escape without the towel closed luggage Jeep and the cold breeze that Spirit not very pleasant! Usual starting at 9am. After many ups and dunes we arrive, in about 1.30 hours, the first lake, the small and picturesque MAVO, surrounded by reeds and date palms. Short and, in about 30 minutes, we reach the largest lake Gebraoun, surrounded by high dunes. A pause of about 1 hours and again for the third lake, the Umm-el-Maa, undoubtedly the most beautiful and most picturesque. Here, tempted by the guide, I try to take advantage of the long bathroom break for lunch. A third 20 minutes from the lake was now fourth lake drained, the Mandara. The visit almost hastily without stopping. Even an hour of ups and shiver from the dunes and then, unfortunately, we reach the paved road, 10 km routes are all'ostello of Fjeaj. We leave from our drivers that deliver what remains of food and cash tip each of 50 DL. Tomorrow we reach the coast by bus.
Al Khoms – Leptis Magna – Tripoli (Bus – 120 Km – 2h)
At 8.30 for us to Leptis Magna, which is only 2 km from Al Khoms. Just try driving into Italian for the visit. The ruins are amazing, thanks to Septimius Severus who wanted his native city as large as Rome. The tour lasts 3 hours, we decide not to look at the museum but to go directly to visit the Circus Maximus and Villa Silin, always with the same guide. In early afternoon we leave for Tripoli that we reach after about 1 hour. We moved into the hotel and book a restaurant dinner planned for the top 20, with afternoon free visit to the suq.
Tripoli – Rome, Milan, Turin (Airplane)
Departure at 6 for the airport. At check in we find that 5 out of 20 participants did not have the flight confirmed that despite a Ghat we had to support local agency for confirmation. Fortunately, the anomaly was resolved thanks to the intervention of the corresponding immediately notified by telephone, although he was still asleep in less than half an hour we reached the airport. We greet our cop-driving and we board the flight to Rome where we separate greeting us with the promise of a town to see you soon.
Conclusions
This is certainly one of those trips that many of us would like to repeat. Even those persons who, not having ever been in the desert, with some apprehension had decided to make this experience. There was a good harmony among the participants, as well as with our drivers and the driving, they too good traveling companions in every respect, and this has enabled us to live in harmony of the various and inevitable discomfort.
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