Mali, la realtà dell'Africa nera

I ended up in Mali by chance, because I wanted to spend New Year in a warm place (but not stifling), not far from home (in terms of hours of air), interesting from a cultural point of view and different from usual.
I had the vaccination for yellow fever is mandatory, but no antimalarial prophylaxis, as December and January are the dry season. The choice was apt, as my traveling companions were all male for drug antimalarials, and I was fine.
I flew Air France. The option is Royal Air Maroc, but you lose too many hours for the connecting in Casablanca.
The climate is wonderful, nice and dry. The country is quiet, they are all very friendly and almost all speak French (except in the most remote villages).
When you go to visit a village is normally greet the Great Chief (the chef) and the elderly, leading cola nuts as a gift. Then he asks permission to visit the village and take photographs.
It takes great spirit of adaptation, and needless to say we must get to eat fish from the river (muddy) and free-range chicken for the holiday. THE fruit bought in the markets, however, is excellent.

 

The flight departs from Bamako to Paris in the late afternoon.
Virtually all day pass at the airport, because I just found a flight to Paris in the early morning mist and moreover there is fiita.
Fortunately, my being a flight that is "guaranteed."
The flight is 5 hours, we landed in Bamako quite late. FA a heat.
The drama is to recover the bags, because there is only a tiny strip is crowded and the locals desperate.
After 1 hour I can retrieve the bag.
Caution, do not go by the boarding passes with baggage label, otherwise you do not leave the airport.

The visit of Bamako is impossible. It 's closed. Today is the feast of Tabaski and you can not Vivitar anything, just go up on the jeep with the rest of the troop and I head towards Segou.
Once in Segou, after lunch, and canoe in salgo gently navigate the river Niger.
It 'a beautiful feeling, there is no noise ....
After shipping, you dock in the old Segou, and after having greeted the Boss is making its way jar with a torch, because artificial light is missing and we are now at sunset.
Many children follow us and make us the road.

I km to go in jeeps are really many.
Driving northward on a dirt track towards Djenné.
Djenné, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located on an island in the middle of a river.
To get there you climb on a barge (a rermi), which docks a short distance from shore. Then close the window well and gain the river, hoping not to get embroiled.
Ada our driver, performs the maneuver in a very fluid.
Djenné is wonderful, but it is now almost oxen and New Year's Eve. Better go and rest.
The bad news is that it's over the water in the tank of the village. There is no water for anyone, not even for brushing your teeth or go to the bathroom.
We have to make a habit ....

Instead of making dinner in the hotel as the few tourists here, Gabriele, our guide, we organize an evening alternative.
We go in a hut Griot (the singers) and we hear a story sung in Mliano.
The atmosphere is very evocative, almost hypnotic. At the end of history (1 hour plentiful), the wife of the Griot is a dimension in tribal dance.
E 'already past midnight when we leave and even there we noticed .....

Djenné is now a market day.
Let the day to visit every alley across this wonderful city of straw and clay. It seems to be in a picture-perfect.
The market is colorful and full of life. I put together and taste cakes of rice flour cooked in cast iron bowl.
Unfortunately this afternoon we have to leave this enchanted place, go back on our barge rowing and head towards Mopti.
Once there take the canoe and make a visit to a village on the banks of the Tuareg Niger.
To get on the boat fell into the River.
Are covered with mud, but at least I was laughing all the children of the village who always welcome us with a thousand smiles.
The hotel of Mopti is the only one with a little water between those where I paused.

The morning is devoted to the visit of Mopti and its wonderful market, even more beautiful than that of Djenné.
Then Km and Km of dirt to the land of the Dogon where we come in the evening.
Before we retire to visit the village of Sangha, where time has stood still.
Here again the rites of initiation for children and I remain struck by the description.
I can not even believe that in 2007 is still alive as in the Middle Ages.
It 's fascinating, although I very inspires fear.
The hotel of Bandiagara is quite spartan and totally devoid of windows. In the sense that there are windows, but no glass.
This is an area which the harmattan blows strong, the wind of the desert and at night is a nightmare.
Virtually sand enters the room and the wind is constant.

I was awakened by the black sand of the desert ...
Today you trek into the legendary cliff.
The cliff is a charm and is worth making a day of trekking up and down the rocks.
The villages with their granaries from roofs are hiding in rocce.Lo scenery is breath-taking.
Here is witnessing a vigil in honor of the dead, a tribal dance with the Dogon masks really incredible.
I was excited.
This is black Africa that imagined ....

I expect 580 km on the road to the south, with stops in San and Sevarè.
While we relax under a mango tree, the villagers, as a sign of welcome to start a dance party to which we invite to participate.
They are too good for us ... even the children are better than John Travolta ...
The people here are wonderful and always smiling.

Here we are again in Bamako. Today is a normal day and you can turn safely.
Very interesting archaeological museum, but even more beautiful on the market, especially one dedicated to hardware.
Dante looks like a circle, we must understand that going to mean.
It 'one of the things that impressed me most remain in the village.

Last day is scheduled to visit the Siby, the land of the Mandingo.
Hot and makes the trek up to the gorge I know tough.
Americans are there to make climbing a bare hand ....
Market buy cloth and fruit, but I am tired ....
The diet based on chicken and fish is killing me.
I need to make the evening air at the 23rd
I would advise you to do pre-check in the capital, you can even deliver your luggage.
This is to avoid overbooking and crazy in the airport code.

While landing on time, I risked losing the connection.
At that time in Paris hundreds of flights arriving from around the world, but customs is only open a door.
I say no quarrel with the French.
Cmq Air France has the closest seats to the world and no space for the legs ....