A taste of the particular charm of Morocco: Marrakesh and the desert

Morocco has always fascinated us, but we kept him there for a mid season because we suffer from low blood pressure and the heat of summer is not ideal for enjoying life and the streets of Marrakesh.

Book flights with Easyjet, which currently offers the best rates and great flexibility to choose the weight of luggage you want to embark chee.

In choosing the riad (Riad Amra) consult online booking sites, but then directly contact structures to have direct contact with them. Among other beliefs, on request, also give an additional discount rate than the "official".

We decided that a trip inland and experience of the camp in a tent can only be good experience and then we rely on a local agency (the Key Morocco Travel), managed by a Berber ch offers good value for money than availability to adjust the route to their requests.

The time zone with Morocco is -2 hours -1 hour in summer and in winter (do not use Daylight Saving Time). The weather in October is still warm and sunny days offers intense.

Using credit cards is widespread only in the larger structures and tourism, while for small riad, the restaurants and (of course) the souq are cash. The change is good and also easy to "count" (just split everything 10-11 !!!).

 

From Milan to Marrakesh

The EasyJet flight forces us to wake up very early (early check-in at 5.30 am), not at all helped by time zone (3 hour flight to turn back the hands of two hours).

However we arrive in Marrakesh on time and with the sun high that we welcome. Immigration procedures are not all that fast, forcing us to a long wait but it gives us the opportunity to see how beautiful and clean airport Menara.

After immigration and baggage claim, we make the money exchange (export of dirhams is illegal, so you are banks abroad) and immediately after the pending transfer to the Riad (only sore point: although we had reported arrival time, we have to wait over an hour before seeing the person who comes to pick us).

Riad Amra arrived to find that Medina is a structure in full, but quiet, with only 6 rooms (13 beds), the characteristic inner courtyard (with pool) and a wonderful roof terrace, where we offered you the first mint (also known as Berber whiskey).

Among other things this week we discover that the riad is everything for us because there are no other guests. It seems to be at home: do not even have the key to the door of the chamber (supplied on request), nor that of the riad: there is always someone to greet us!!

We relax, trying to get into the spirit of Morocco, calm and quiet ... But curiosity is so great and decided to rush immediately to the discovery of a thousand dead (and thousands souq) typical of Marrakesh.

Orientation is not easy and dodge bicycles, donkeys and motorbikes is also more difficult: the pawn here seems to have no rights! But lost through the streets, leaving to chance the choice of destination is a nice feeling ...

Dine in the restaurant of the Hotel Ali (recommended by Lonely Planet, Rue Moulay Ismail), one of the streets leading away from Jemaa-El-Fna (southbound) and 240 dirhams (about 20 euros) we enjoy the first Moroccan tajine. ..
Actually tagine is the name of the container, clay (cone) in which we cooked several dishes of meat or vegetables. They are served hot (and quite spicy) and each is different.

We continue to search for the souq and haggle for the first purchase. It is not easy, because usually the sellers offer a high price and should be good to go down in price (usually you get a good 20% but legend has it that up to -60% earn them there though).
Morally speaking, sometimes we do because we feel some qualms over "bargain" as they ask for a 4 euro taxi ride or 5 euro for a set of 6 glasses ...

In the evening we return to the Kotoubia, where a group of guys you are "exercising" to make acrobatic leaps: they are really good and look a bit 'enchanted by their attempts.

But the real heart is the Djemaa El-Fna, where they have already assembled all the stalls to eat (we eat well at No. 34 !!!), but also those of the juice (delicious) and dried fruits.
Next ... snake charmers, women tattooed with henna, musicians, vendors of everything ...

It 's all very funny, but fatigue is felt early and then go back to the riad in peace prepare for the tour that starts tomorrow morning! "

From Marrakesh to Dadès

At 8:30, after a hearty breakfast on the terrace of the riad to pick those of Key Morocco Travel: Our guide and driver Ibrahim Abdoul.
We are on a private tour clean and spacious Toyota Prado (which at the end of the tour will be soooooo more experienced).

Abdoul is a very careful driver and comfortable travel, while Ibrahim explains the way and tells us something of himself, his family and Morocco in general. His Italian is not very strong, but we understand perfectly, while the poor Abdoul is cut a bit 'out: we can make us understand a bit' with the Spanish, but we must admit that the French do not get along .. .

The day is unfortunately not the best and every time it rains, but we stop to take many photos and to admire the scenery you follow each step towards the Tizi-n-Tichka (the highest point is around 2200 meters).
Incredible to see so many villages "camouflaged" with the surrounding mountains, but then the raw material for walls and roofs is represented by the same land that surrounds them (mixed with straw and reeds).

We stop for lunch at the Kasbah of Ait Ben Addou, in a non-touristy restaurant, but very good. Next to us there are two pairs of Spaniards who complain about the lack of a good "cerveza", but otherwise everything is really good (and we learn that if you advance the water of the meal is always good to take it away! !).

We visit the Kasbah, declared World Heritage by UNESCO and admire the ability to build a site so impressive, starting from simple mud and straw, however, very resistant to sun but also the weather. Ibrahim also explains the mechanism of some work tools kept in the Kasbah.

We share, through the city of Ourzazate (famous for film studios but not visited) headed to the Rose Valley (Vallée des Roses). Unfortunately it's raining today and would not be flowering season, but still appreciate the vegetation and the sequence of roses.

The rains of the day, unfortunately, have created spontaneous rivers that flood the streets, sometimes making them impassable. There remains to stop and wait impatiently for the full terms of momentum, allowing the ford car.

Our great Abdoul can unravel the tangle of cars stopped in the street (we Prado is high, but there are still cars that fail to pass) and to prevent curious children who come to the machines to watch the scene and the occupants.
Becomes a kind of party with lots of horns and shouts and laughter ... In all that we hold no fun ..... "WORLD CHAMPIONS !!!!!" ....

The last ford was now dark, the sun sets quite early in this period, but Abdoul safe driving and brings us to our hotel.

Hotel Les Lunes 5 is a small guesthouse run by two guys we need good Berber dinner by the fireplace on and entertain us with bongos and guitars. Going out on the terrace, you see a beautiful starry sky: tomorrow will probably be a good day.
Our room is simple and basic, but clean and comfortable. Before going to sleep, we obviously have the mint tea, a pleasant companion throughout the trip.

From Dadès to Erg Chebbi

When we wake up the sunlight coming through the window and warms the room. Breakfast is served in our terrace and a nice cat keeps us company, enjoying the crumbs "accidentally" fall at your leg.
Abdoul cleans the best car muddy after the adventures of last night.

When ready, set off once Dades Gorge, a deep gorge carved into the mountains with a panoramic road snake that climbs up to a hotel overlooking the River. One side of the throat is completely sunny, the other is in shadow, creating a striking contrast.
Impressive the number of fig trees in this region.

Continuing the way we stop to Boumalne du Dadès where we matched by nugoletto of children who would receive a few dirhams. Following the advice of Lonely Planet, (but also advised to avoid Ibrahim alms), Italy had brought a sacchettone candy and I believe that children are happy because we pay off with a cheerful pose photo.

The next stop is at Todra Gorge, a gorge more rugged paradise for climbing (many even today) and gluttons of dates (most recognizable from the stem almost fluorescent orange).
The Todra river here has enough water to allow even a bathroom for the more adventurous (touch the water does not seem cold, but it's still current!).

We share and after a brief stop for lunch we stop Rissani, where a local guide takes us to visit the local market (held three times a week is one of the largest in the region).
We see all kinds of goods and also take the opportunity to ask about eating habits: eat lots of fruits and vegetables while the meat is present but in small quantities. Arabic bread is the basis of their diet and I have to admit that it is very tasty.
In the animals we see that the size of their race is still much smaller than we are used to (their adult cow the size of our calf).
We inform on the prices of animals and we find that with $ 200 could buy a cow healthy.

After admiring the beautiful carpets (and hearing the stories of their texture), we head towards the Erg Chebbi because we face the night in bivouac.

Near Auberge Erg there are many from which to start the groups of tourists to the bivouacs. We are a bit 'late and we quickly loaded (including our trolley) on two dromedaries and we start chasing the other camp mates: a pair of Bergamo and a German girl. Together with us there are two Tuareg that open and close the caravan and we keep you company.

In the next two hours trying to adapt the dromedary gait, but it is not an easy task, especially if you have a trolley before and want to take pictures of the landscape.

Once again we arrive at the destination in the dark: the Tuaregs follow the footprints of those who preceded us, but when we get my camel does not want to get to know me: we have to sit the other four camels, first to convince him to sit (as many laugh !!!).
Under a sky full of stars we are once again greeted with a tasty mint tea.

Dinner is served outdoors Tuaregs there in the middle of our camp, while our friends have with their drums. My husband can not resist his instinct and drummer launches into a jam session in Africa, very successful!

The alarm will go off at dawn and then, after the hike to the bathrooms (outside), we retreat into comfortable tents, equipped with a mattress, clean sheets and warm blankets.
Thanks to the advice of those who preceded us, fortunately we had a torch to light a heavy sweatshirt (but not needed) and toilet paper (you never know!).

Even in the camp we have our cats "home", probably required to remove other animals and insects. And in fact ... Espying we happen only a few beetle that walks in the sand without getting into the tent.

From Erg Chebbi to Marrakesh

The alarm rings at 6 am, just before dawn, but the sky is not completely clear and therefore we lose a bit 'the beautiful pink-orange sunrise clean. The fiery red dunes is still a show priceless! And the peace of a walk in the pristine sandy ... is priceless!
In the distance, our fellow Tuareg are waking up even the camels, which show quite sleepy expressions and solfeggios very little music!

There is served each morning, always at the center of the camp (unfortunately this morning the flies woke up !!!), before resuming the dromedary and the way to the Auberge where we expect and Ibrahim Aboul to bring us back to Marrakesh.

We take advantage of the dromedary gait slow to make other pictures and admire the quiet landscape of sand dunes. We are overtaken by a jeep that shows other tourists, but we find that the camel is definitely the best way to enjoy the beginning of the day and respect nature and the silence that surrounds us ...

After a stop at the Auberge (and the inevitable mint tea) and distributed to Marrakesh, a long journey that normally would be better split into two stages.
However, we stop occasionally to admire the scenery and take pictures, have lunch in a restaurant very nice and we thank our fellow travelers, giving them their lunch.

On step Tizi-n-Tichka the clouds are very low and sometimes even Abdoul is forced to turn the fog, the temperature drops a lot and the sun still catches us off from Marrakesh.
Now we are really tired of all the talk we mix and 4 Random Italian, Spanish, English, French ... Somehow we understand!
That Ibrahim had taught us to say "okay" we say "baaas and becomes our car smash ... Every now and then turns around and asks" alright? " and we, in unison ... "The baaas !!!".

We arrive in Marrakech and Conoco Youssef, the owner of Key Travel Morocco: we thank him for the organization and confirm the success of the trip!

Riyadh expects us to dinner prepared by staff: Berber salad and omelets. Delicious! But even more appreciated after the tour, have a shower and comfort of the bed!

Marrakesh

This morning we've taken the easy and after breakfast (on terrace) we started down south to visit the graves Saadian, but when we are closed for lunch.

Going north, and between a purchase and the other, we come to visit medersa Ben Youssef and the Museum of Marrakech ... Niches are small, but very nice: there are very reminiscent of Andalusia!
Nearby there is also the Qoubba Almoravide, but it is very badly preserved and it disappoints a bit '.

Lunch at a kiosk rough reported by Lonely Planet (Chez Abdelhay, 46 Rue el-Baroudiyenne): salad, grilled meats, bread, water and the usual mint tea ... 9 euros for two!! Definitely good, but the food is excellent and the staff friendly. Eventually, of course, offer us tea with mint.

We walk to the Palais Bahia happy along the way my husband and try some local pastries: says they are soooooo good and draw French pastries (like croissants).

The Palais Bahia and 'very nice, even if some parts are not kept very well. The rooms, roofs and gardens are very similar (though smaller) to the Alhambra in Cordoba (but then the period and the Kings were the ones).
Unfortunately we just enjoy it because my stomach decided to do a tantrum and then take a taxi (after the contracted price) and we do bring to the riad, which we ordered the classic "canary" hot water and lemon.

Definitely opt for a break, but then return to the track and decide to dine in a booth on the Place Djemaa El-Fna (the end, however, eat only my husband, my stomach when he refuses to consider the food!).

Marrakesh

We are Friday ... My stomach is better, but still we choose to be good and relax.

After the usual delicious breakfast on the terrace, let's jump in the bank to change money (hence the credit card does not exist!) And then we go to visit the tombs of Saadi: the room with the columns of Carrara marble and ' really impressive, while the rest leaves a little 'disappointed. The problem of Africa, and how little we know (we were here and in Egypt), seems to be neglecting some masterpieces (like the pyramids, where children climb undisturbed), leaving time from eroding monuments and sculptures. ...

Since and 'pretty soon, we reach the El Badi Palace, which pays more or less the same state of our Baths of Caracalla ... Interestingly, however, and 'climb to the terrace to see all the nests of storks and a good view of the city' and its parables (a guide tells us that the balconies with flowers are foreigners, while the "unadorned" belonging to Moroccans doc) .

The tour runs out quickly and we decide to go see the new part of Marrakech. The sun and 'high and hot in order to address all the way on foot, we grant several stops on many benches in the shade.

La Ville Nouvelle and 'decidedly different: wide streets, modern buildings and condominiums, shops and (of course there are Mc Donalds and Zara).

We eat in a grill recommended by Lonely Planet (Bar L'Escale Rue de Mauritanie): good food and cheap (90 dirhams in two), but the only women present are few and foreign ... (Some restaurants also guide warns us that might not be pleasant for groups of women only.)

Finished eating, we go to see the Jardin Majorelle: spectacular! A corner of peace and relaxation, including tropical plants, water tanks and strong colors (indigo and yellow in particular).
We take it easy and we enjoy a mint tea with Moroccan pastries (all made with almond paste), do half nap on the benches and then we move to the riad for a pre-dinner stop.

After a nap back in the souq to the square and we give ourselves a good Moroccan dinner at one of the many terraces overlooking the bustling square (Chez Chegrouni, 4-6 Djemaa el-Fna). Then wander between the square and Kotubia for photo dates and ... eating!

Marrakesh

Saturday, the last full day. The sun and 'very hot, but we plan shopping in the souq, where the sun does not come.
We learn that the art of bargaining requires perseverance and practice. But we can find many things for us and for parents: a pair of dancers in leather, the typical tagine for serving jams, the kebabs for the barbecue, cushion covers, scarves, spices ...

Several herbalists seek to stop because they see that I have herpes and want to offer their medicines. Unfortunately they are so resigned to the lack of care that do not string ...

To rest a bit 'you to grant us a quiet Cafe' des Epices (Place Rahba Redeem) and meanwhile look at the traffic in the square below ... On Saturday morning, 'however much quieter than other days, perhaps the parties should be disposed of on Friday?

And to try all the delicacies, in the afternoon we give ourselves a croissant into Patisserie des Princes (Rue de Bab Agnaou), among others, and that 'the road for our relaxing break: Les Bains de Marrakech (2 Derb Sedra, Bab Agnaou !)

To surprise my husband had booked a package is family time. Everything 'in white-beige-brown amber and soothing music fills the air. We provide bathrobes and slippers clean (the bathing suit should have) and make us sit in the garden on the deck, where we are served mint tea.

Shortly after lead us to a private hammam (2 seats) with the temperature almost like a sauna. Personally I'd rather keep both pieces of costume, but the beauticians insist me to remove the piece over and actually makes more sense ... Okay '... I'll leave!
In the following 45 minutes we massage the paste with black soap, it scales with a sponge ruvidissima (which then give us) and we cover with fragrant mud. Beautiful!

After a hot shower we are again in the relaxation room, with a second round of mint tea.

We are then taken on a very dark room by candlelight where we face two big tubs of hot water and fragrant rose petals. The thing is' very romantic, but 'hot water from there' s a bit annoying (after we hammam pressure drops) and then we leave before we call.

Then we go to a new relaxation room where we are given ... the mint tea.

Here we are at long relaxation (almost abbiocco) before moving into the third room (always 2), where we run a one hour relaxing massage. Divine!

We end up even the massage and relaxation back to the e. .. mint tea! There seems to be true so 'relaxed and soft ... My husband would actually institutionalize once a week!! It took just ...

However back in town and have dinner in the same restaurant last night, but without getting on the terrace. The last picture, the last rub between the stalls and to Kotoubia ... And then back to the riad to finish to pack!

From Marrakesh to Milano

This time the transfer was perfectly organized by the riad. After breakfast and after leaving our thanks in the guest book, we come together at the airport, where the check-in and check documents take place quickly and smoothly.

Once again we note with surprise the cleanliness and order of the airport, but in these 7 days more than once we have seen many street sweepers pass continuously to collect litter and rubbish around the streets, as retailers are loyal in keeping clean the pavements outside their shops to ...
Probably a new habit in large cities (during the tour in this aspect was not so marked), but it sure gives a good signal to the passing tourist.

The holiday is over now and we must also recognize and uphold the great hospitality of this people, whom we had no trouble talking and that has always welcomed with a cup of mint tea.