La tempesta di sabbia
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Between the Imperial cities and the desert. Morocco travel experience
Also this begins our new adventure, you go to Morocco. The appointment is with Andrea and Antonella on BMW GS 1200 to exit Padova Est to 5.15 and we are always Michael and Graziella's just that this year there is a new, motorcycles are two, eh Graziella is also c'ha his motorcycle, a brand new BMW F650GS. My quote for the final out as ranking, Honda XRV 750 Africa Twin.
Finally Morocco
We are at the port of Almeria to 9:50 am, I go to the door Ferrimaroc a request for information on cost and on the crossing. The operator told me the price, and are the 9:55, I say all right and I ask what time, at 10.00 I am him. Then run get passports and make the tickets. I ask the guy "Excuse me where is the board?" and he "always straight, then right, right again .... CORIENDO" coriendo and we take the Ferry.
After six hours sailing here Melilla Spanish Enclave in Morocco, next indeed to tell the truth are two cities in one, is Nador point of the ferry landing. The descent is a very traumatic Nador, a myriad of people you are asking money for anything, who wants you to book the ferry for the return and so on, a short stress. To start with, our destination was to be
Fes, but given the hour, we landed at 16:30, but due to time zone and the lack of summer are 18:30, too late to do almost 300 km, we opt for
Taza imposed the route on the GPS but I realize now that it will not be completely reliable, we rely on road signs and maps and turn the road to
Taza. I see a fork indicating
Taza but later discover that was not the way we wanted to do, so a little evil is as good as another. The narrow road salt at a height and is about 1200 m the landscape is very beautiful and every village the people greeted us warmly. Morocco also think of giving us a warm welcome. At one point a kind of black-veined Nuvolone of ocher we encounter threatening, a time in Morocco, but if ever it does not rain! Indeed it is not time but a great storm of sand. The atmosphere takes on the surreal characters, the sky is mixed with earth to form a whole, the feeling that I feel is great but at the same time a Filini anxiety pervades me, a storm as strong so it is facing, but a storm of sand no. However after a while 'everything passes behind us giving you a spectacular scenario.
We arrive at
Taza consulting and guidance system to us Lonely Hotel Tour Eiffel, emblazoned as the best of the city (others think MAH).
Fes
We arrive at
Fes in the morning, the evening before, the guide always lonely, had chosen as the Ibis hotel near the station, we know the chain on the safe side. Recently I came to
Fes in Morocco is approached in a car (also rhyme) that makes me "Italian? Hotel?" answer that I want to go to the station hotel Ibis, I mention this to follow shortly after and we are at hotel. This figure tells us that if we want to do the rounds of the city lead him there, why not accept us and we meet at 16.00.
The hotel does not belies my expectations, and also clean the pool. The recall of the pool is too strong we do two dives, lunch at 16:00 and we are in the Moroccan motorbike.
Leads us to find another person to be an official guide and he'll do the tour of the Medina, the unfairness in Morocco is punishable by three months in jail and do not risk it, so also the guy that brought us to the hotel will receive his committee.
The guide takes us to visit a ceramic factory, to see very nice to be a little 'less, the furnaces are fed with olive pomace, the black smoke that rises in the sky is impressive, and the man who feeds more black smoke itself. There are many people who work, who sgrezza ceramics who shape and those who have to form mosaics with beautiful designs. Then we visit the decoration department, too many people (mostly women) to decorate vases, plates and a typical dish with conical lid which is used to cook the traditional Moroccan tajine dish.
Return taxi and brings us to the Medina. This is the part of the city devoted to urban life. I will describe as a huge local market. Here are all the cows' feet to the DVD player. Turn so as not to understand that the more we entered, and especially where to exit. Only look from outside a mosque, the entrance of the Koranic school and a splendid mausoleum.
Now it's up to the stores that give guidance to the commission if you buy something, then first enter into a beautiful riad that sells carpets and go buy two pillows and a carpet. A tip if you want to buy something at these stores do not follow what the guide recommends lonely (half of the required offer and then agree on 60-70% of the price) calmly fired 1 / 4 of what the dealer calls and stay on that price, if he is there to say that is fine and will be for next time. Assured that when you stand up to leave accept your price.
Finished with touches all'erboristeria Berber carpet, where we are shown all the curative properties of the various concoctions. E 'late and I went to
Fes in particular to make the pictures of tanks in the area of tanning, I ask if the guide leads us to see these tanneries and after we are on the little terrace on the famous tanks. The view is wonderful, the smell a little 'less. The skins are colored with natural colors in tanks containing urine pensate un po 'with the heat of that race profumino and think tanks in those people we are immersed up to his knees for 10 hours a day MAHHHHHH.
Let's go back to the hotel, dinner and tomorrow we go to bed ahead of the gorges of Dades and todra, forgot the evening celebrating the birthday of Graziella.
The Chebbi Erg.
As already mentioned, the next step will be
Tinrhir point to the valleys of todra and Dades. A Midlet starts to warm, we will be 40-45 degrees and on the street there is still plentiful, we arrive at Er-rachides cooked enough having about 400 km with very high temperatures. Here we decide to drink, rest a while 'and return the last 137 km that separate us from
Tinrhir. The bar boys of Moroccan Berbers indeed, tell us we are all first and then the desert gorges. We propose to make a night in a Berber tent in the desert to
Merzouga. Contract price, which includes a room in a hotel Kasbah, outing dromedary, Berber dinner, night in the desert and breakfast in the Kasbah. Before accepting the check that the hotel is recommended on the lonely, and it is thus also speak very well.
We reach
Merzouga, with a wonderful glance at the ziz valley, after 130 km of hell. The grades are 50 ° and 60 runs have been beastly. Turn a track into the desert and after 4 km we are at the Kasbah Mohajuot or the hotel that will host our luggage for the night in the desert. La Kasbah is very welcoming as far as hot, but it's all taken care of the smallest details, there are rooms with a restaurant and a little green 'everywhere, and behind the great dunes of ERGOSE Chebbi spectacular.
E 'hours after a powerful shower climb on dromedary and after an hour and a half up and down the dunes here that sees the Berber camp two tents in a pit of sand. E 'already night and not be seen virtually nothing, one of two guides will prepare us for tea with mint while the other prepares dinner, the famous Chicken Tajine.
Finally we eat, the tajine is good and after dinner the two boys begin to play driving and singing Berber songs. Unfortunate that we are destroyed, 500 km in the conditions we have marked, and so you go to bed all covered by millions of stars, a spectacle.
The dawn in the desert
We are still in the desert, we are admiring the sun which is born of the dunes, the peace and tranquility reign supreme, it seems strange, sitting here, that around the world there is so much hatred and war.
We start in our hump dromedaries for the kasbah that after we reach the usual hour and a half to dunes. The desert still amazes me, every minute the sun on the horizon grows and changes color of the sand. Ah, the charm of the desert.
We arrive at the hotel we make a mighty shower and after a delicious breakfast we move towards
Tinrhir. The road that leads to this country beginning at Erfoud not hide Filini of a concern when taken once known dunes that cover half the road, we go well and then we will see. The situation improves as we proceed in this way through a rocky wilderness, only invasion of sand here and there but that does not impensierirci.
Tinrhir to arrive before lunch, and always choosing the Lonely guide us to the Kasbah systemic Lamrani, beautiful, and the kindness of the Director Aziz is unique. We decide to take a day of rest and so is. Spend the day in a hotel doing some diving in the pool (cold) and writing postcards, the gorges are going to see tomorrow.
Todra and Dades gorges
We start a moto by the throat discharges of todra, take the road running from
Tinrhir and after 15 km of the show, the gorge is largely no more than thirty meters high and the walls at least three hundred, the red rocks reaches out towards the sky so impressive that it makes you feel infinitesimal small robe running from his head. Turning into the gorge to reach the short dirt track which connects the valley of todra than the Dades. A young man rises in motion with me says that there are many bivi and it is easy to get lost. begin this track but after a few km Graziella is Andrew who agree to waive, ok it will be for another time. Downstream to the dirt and walk back down the same road until
Tinrhir and then proceed to another Boumalne du Dades gorge ahead.
This valley is also known as thousand kasbah Going from the beginning because you can see some of these buildings' everywhere, the oasis that follows the river is wonderful, the contrast between the red desert that encompasses and the green palms and crop is spectacular.
Facts about thirty km of the road with some turns and, once on top, run practically on top of the Dades gorge, the cliff is impressive is seen from above and from below, since the road to go down alongside the creek and at the bottom of the gorge.
Let's go back to the hotel and the evening Aziz made us prepare for the four of us tajine of lamb, a spectacle
Marrakech
It starts in the direction of
Marrakech, the road is initially quite boring then arrived in
Ouarzazate (village used as set for the famous film) goes up to 2200 m with a step that never ends, but after days and days of perfectly straight roads Various' curves we wanted.
We arrive in
Marrakech and we immediately invested by its chaotic traffic on the street is right in everything and everything runs according to its own rule, anarchy. Let us search for accommodation all'Ibis but it is full, there is good in the second hotel Corail good enough and with the air conditioning.
The evening will go to the Medina exit, take a taxi and, after a trip to a craft cooperative, we are on the main square. There is a tide of people ranging from snake charmers to, the jugglers, who makes the tattoo with the very picturesque aine to sellers of water and chi più ne ha più ne metta, and everyone wants money.
We enter the Medina, and for peace of mind, hired a guide improvised. This guy Berber us make the turn across the Medina there is also here, though that of
Fes in my opinion is the most original.
We go out from Medina which is already dark, the square is surrounded by a white smoke, I now I wonder what it is, stands that are eating is the answer. There are an infinite number of the famous fish are fried in
Marrakech Couscous and tajine other grilled meat. We reject the first call but the second we give willingly, and we settled beside a Moroccan family and dinner together. I think this is the most beautiful square in Morocco and I also believe that if you can not see and we do not throw a little 'time you've lost a good part of the real Morocco.
Rabat
We start from the time of
Marrakech Rabat, eh we are now on the way back. On arriving in
Rabat, the hotel is always chosen by the hotel guide Bouregreg situated directly opposite the entrance of the Medina. The evening usually around the medina, here much resembling a market for tourists, dinner and sleep.