Hiking the edge of the desert

Oued Draa Trek - On the outskirts of the desert

It is impossible to fully enjoy lazyness if there is not a lot of effort.
Jerome K. Jerome

It's just not to fully enjoy lazyness that we dediced to participate to a challenging and arduous trek, with an implacable sun, temperatures at 40°C degrees, and the sand raised by wind penetrating everywhere. It also put us to test, especially to see if it is still possible to achieve the same results obtained of 30 years ago. Being able to finish the trek with my legs, even with so much effort, is certainly a cause of satisfaction, but it is also positively surprising the group spirit that formed not only among us (eight travel comrades involved), but also with our four Berbers escorts. We shared a full-time challenge for seven days: we shared food, water to drink, bed on which we slept, fatigue, sun at his peak, wind, sand, but also wonderful evenings spent in the desert around a fire hearing Berber songs, baking bread in the sand, partecipating at the ritual of tea and much more, leading finally to a firendship that goes far beyond a simple passenger relationship. We experienced the confirmation of what occurred us when came time to left the group mascot: the guardian of dromedaries Mustafa which, with its 16 years of age, was the youngest of the group. The morning after our last night passed in the desert, in an area made accessible from a dirt track, a bus came to take us: while our guide Mohammed with two other Berber escorts, Brahim and Salah, got up with us on the bus, Mustafa must come back alone to conduct home his six dromedaries. At the time of greetings the emotion took over, with Mustafa bursting into tears along with the three girls included into our group.

 

Thursday, March 18th, 2004.
At Turin, Caselle Airport, we meet the other two partners of the Turin group: Stefano and Loriana. The rest of the group should be met in Rome, but fate made that our adventure begin even before the departure. While in Turin a spring sun shines, it seems that Fiumicino airport will remain closed throughout the morning because of fog. The chaos generated means that our plane will take off with two hours of delay, thus losing the connection with Casablanca. So.. we are forced to spend the night in Rome. This will even force us to travel during the next night to reach the others, warned by telephone about the unconvenient, when arrived in Zagora.

Friday, March 19th, 2004.
We land in Casablanca at 13:00, since the flight on Ourzazate will depart later in the evening, remains time for a brief visit to the Old Medina, just to think positive! The Old Medina of Casablanca is formed by a maze of streets, placed between sober and heavy walls of the sixteenth century, where we can find everything. The contrast with the new city is surprising. It is not so much prudent to go there at night because the place is dangerous and, however, all the shops are closed. Shortly before midnight we land in Ourzazate where a taxi, alerted by our comrades, awaits us. Immediately we start to Zagora, about 160 kilometres away, where the remainings of the group awaits us. With a fast race we pass the checkpoint placed at Tizi n'Tinififft (1680 m) at 2:30 in the night, in order to reach the others that are sleeping together in a Berber tent. It seems that our problems didn't steal their sleep. Only few, hearing our arrival, wake up, but we prefer to postpone every kind of introduction to the next morning.

Saturday, March 20th, 2004.
Uncaring the fact that the three poor men coming from Turin arrived at 3:00, at 7:00 the wake is given. Finally the group is complete! After breakfast we start to Fajia, in a minibus together with the accompanying guide and the Berber escorts. This place is lost at the gates of Sahara desert, 20 kms far from Zagora. There we'll find 6 dromedaries that will accompany us throughout the trek. Uploaded food water, tents, backpacks and anything else necessary to survive 7 days in the desert on dromedaries, we leave. We walk for about 20 Kms on a totally flat ground, behind a group of mountains, the Jebel Bami. We are at the gates of the desert, but there are many water wells that allow people to cultivate and irrigate land; we walk in the midst of grain crops and vegetables. Around 18:00 we arrive at the base of Jebel Bami and start immediatly to mount our tents; to be true I wonder hospitality to our Berber escorts who sleep in the bigger tent, not lacking of space, why do I have to mount mine? We pass our first evening in the desert admiring a sky full of stars and drinking mint tea.

Sunday, March 21st, 2004.
We start to walk at 9:00 for the second stage, on a path that now climbs towards Col de Fam, crossing in the chain of Jebel Bami, and passing an elevation of about 350 metres. From the hill you can see across the plain where we walked yesterday. The long but not steep descent on the other side leads us in a beautiful valley that is reminiscent of the American landscape immortalized in many western films. We follow the course of a semi-dry river surrounded by mountainous formations where we wouldn't wonder, given the landscape, seeing Indians in the distance. From the landscape point of view this stage is certainly more interesting than yesterday one, although the heat begins to be felt; yesterday a lovely breeze lowered temperature. After a refreshing footbath, made in a puddle of water encountered on the road, our long march continues, seems it shouldn't ever finish. Finally we reach the location where we'll place our second camp. The valley is wide, surrounded by the usual Monument Valley-like heights; nearby there is another pool of water that resisted the drought of the river. For the second time in the day we are able to enjoy the pleasure of a footbath and a general refresh.

Monday, March 22nd, 2004.
We start from a phantasmagorical landscape, composed of dark red and black rocks. We walk mainly along the bed of a stone river, with the same result of yesterday. After ½ hour of walk we stop on the sideline of a beautiful lake where we eventually can make a dip. The temperature rises and the sun beats implacable on us. Today will be a burning stage. After stopping for lunch the group is restored again without its captain that, well cooked, is loaded on the rump of our trusted Toumbou dromedary that will even bear him through some stretches in the following days. The sun is still hammering relentlessly and the temperature remains at about 40°C, attenuating only after 18:00. In the distance we can see the great dune at the foot of Chegaga where we'll set our third field. The landscape has changed dramatically in the final of this stage: lowland areas rich in vegetation continuously alternate to groups of small dunes. Only the beauty of the place gives us the strength to continue and arrive at our destination around 19:00, when the sun has already fallen. In the silence and darkness of the night three jeeps, suddenly appeared cast the turmoil on our field: they mistaken our camp for that of another group and almost took down Doris and Barbara tent.

Tuesday, March 23rd, 2004.
Very enjoyable stage only at the beginning and end: we must pass through many dunes interspersed by flat areas with vegetation that forms a beautiful contrast of colors with sand. In the central part we are crossing a great plain from the harsh ground, making the journey rather monotonous even if easier to walk than on stones (it is less tiring than digging on the sand).

Wednesday, March 24th, 2004.
We begins the journey with an up and down on small dunes that, as yesterday, are interspersed by green fields, creating a spectacular landscape. After about 1 hour of journey, we finally reach an area full of fossils that we are going to collect, loading up our poor dromedaries. The sun is slightly tarnished, not implacable as in the past few days: even the temperature has decreased slightly, we report only 35°C degrees. During the journey we meet several female dromedaries with smaller ones, according to our guide Mohammed, having not more than 6 or 7 months. Near the area where we place the field there is a well with solar panels that create sufficient energy to operate pumps in order to fill a large tank of water. The illusion of being able to make a shower soon vanishes, because the water comes out from a pipe placed not more than 50 cm from the ground, so... only a brief wash, to deprive us of the dust accumulated. At 18:00 a sudden storm of sand and rain reaches our camp. Fortunately, the violent storm is short, but sufficient to collapse the great white common tent, trapping Dario and me. The violence of nature and the fatigue are not sufficient to bring down the morale of our group, that remains high: after dinner songs and celebrations in the common tent placed once again. Unanimous Desire: an iced beer!

Thursday, March 25th, 2004.
The low humidity caused by yesterday evening rain evaporates, increasing sweating. Fortunately moisture evaporates quickly and, shortly after departure, the climate returns hot and dry. We cross a vast area of dunes, not high, but the continuous climbs and descents are worning us. At 11:00 starts the wind that raises sand: the whole sixth stage will be marked by a storm of sand, not very violent, but asphyxiating with sand entering everywhere. Fortunately, in just not more than 4 hours and half we reach the goal, and get all inside the large Berber tent. We can't mount our tents, this night we'll sleep all together in this one. The 4 Berber friends prefer not to disturb us and, after the evening chants, they withdraw into theirt kitchen tent. The young Mustafa will sleep outdoor, on the sand, under a mountain of blankets.

Friday, March 26th, 2004.
Today is the last day of trekking. We proceed for the final stage in a violent storm of sand, walking headlong, determined to get to Lehodi, our ultimate goal as soon as possible. A quick stop under a wattle at 13:00 for a snack with some fruit, and after again all on our way. After the last dune suddenly appears to us the sumptuous refuge residence that will welcome all of us for the next evening and night. That's right, this evening we won't mount tents, as we are host in a hut in the village of Lehodi. The smell of civilization begins to be felt: a snowboard for descents on the dunes, an empty bottle of beer abandoned.... But the beer arrives really, an inhabitant of the village offers to go to purchase it with his motorbike. We are just a few miles away from the asphalt road, accessible by a ruined trail. After more than two hours from the departure he is back with 15 bottles of beer, along with some bananas and fresh fruit. Thus the dinner, the last in the desert, is pleasantly gladdened, as in addition to the fragrance of food and the smiles of the table, there's the fresh coming from the flush of beer.

Saturday, March 27th, 2004.
Waiting for the bus, which must come to take us, some of us decide to explore the surroundings, in particular, to climb on the highest dune overlooking the village. Since from its top could be enjoyed a broad view of the desert that surrounds us, we would remain for hours in silence to contemplate the beauty of the landscape. Unfortunately, we must come back down early, because the bus is coming. It is time to greet the young Mustafa returning alone, at walk in order to accompany dromedaries. I do not want to repeat myself describing the emotions experienced, already described at the beginning of these notes, saying only that it was one of the most beautiful and certainly the most touching moment of the trip. Once in the bus, we move to Zagora, not without making some stops to visit the villages of Tamegroute and Amazrou, both laboratories that produce beautiful Berber handicraft objects. A brief stop in Zagora for lunch and then, in the early afternoon, once greeted with sincere emotion the other three Berber friends, with the promise to keep in touch via e-mail, we take two taxies to reach Ouarzazate where we arrive in the evening. Again crossing the Draa Valley until arrived at the pass after which extends the vast plain of Ouarzazate. For us from Turin, which travelled forth during the night, it is finally possible to admire the beauty of this valley full of palms, small villages and various plantations.
The Royal Hotel in Ouarzazate was waiting us, we take possession of our rooms and finally, even if in turn, we can make the much desired shower. We conclude the day with the last supper of our journey, consumed at the restaurant La Fibule. Tomorrow we'll go back to Italy.

Sunday, March 28th, 2004.
We wake up at 4:00. At 4:45 a bus will carry us to the airport where, with an internal flight, we'll reach Casablanca. Here we greet our proud captain Gianni who leaves us at first, with a direct flight to Milan. All the other will be greet in Rome where our roads will separate: Milan, Turin, Palermo, Bologna. Our greetings are the least but not the last, since we exchange the promise of meeting again. Where? Of course in Val di Lanzo!

Having to summarize our wonderful and suffered trek in Sahara with the company of our 4 Berber friends, raises to my mind a question: was it worth doing so much effort? I am convinced that the answer for everyone is the same: YES, it was.