Southern Morocco: trip to an extraordinary county with a great variety of landscapes

 

Marrakech - Ouarzazate

On the road between the mountain passes, deserts and oasis

Morocco is a country that really stands out for its extraordinary variety of fascinating landscapes: the southern region in particular, offers a mosaic of images of unusual and extraordinary and a kaleidoscope of color sensation. Starting from the fascinating and chaotic Marrakech, over breathtaking mountain passes, you pass through delightful oasis that appear like mirages in the midst of arid plains, the majestic and dramatic end to the Sahara desert, with high dunes spotless gives the feeling that the most exciting 'whole journey. The ancient kasbah ocher appear as if by magic among the bright green of the palms, while the snow on the highest peaks in stark contrast with the desert landscape and the warm spring temperatures.

Form the outline of this postcard, slice of daily life at the limit of the imagination: in some places seems to be catapulted to more than a century ago, living conditions are really difficult, but the kindness and the smile of the population are truly unique and unusual.

Morocco offers an excellent value for money and the opportunity, with only three hours flying time, be in a reality totally different from the one we are usually accustomed and spoiled.
The Easyjet flight from Malpensa (6.30 - € 55) forces us to one up early, but offers us the opportunity to arrive in Morocco and have any free time, whereas this is a very busy day.
After the process to control documents, which I expected longer, we go to the Europcar desk for the withdrawal of the car that will accompany us throughout the week (€ 250 - 7 days, Citroen C3). At 9.30 we are already in possession of our half, with the body already pretty bruised and interior certainly not luxurious. Just as well, we will not have to be careful with any scratches or stone ...
Leaving from Marrakech towards Ouarzazate, we can already guess the reason why the streets in Morocco are among the most dangerous in the world: all the way back we will have to reckon with dizzying switchbacks, huge trucks, donkey carts, children and people strolling on the street and then .... It seems that the national sport is to go through with the utmost coolness and specially the road when a vehicle is about to occur!

The mercury was already 24 degrees: the plain leaves room for the first climb quickly through a fairy and green valley with dense vegetation. It continues to grow more rapidly and the vegetation gives way to beautiful and secluded white peaks, cliffs and canyons awesome and majestic landscapes from high mountains, up to the famous passage Tizi-n-Tichka height of 2260 meters.
In some places we proceed at an average speed of 30 kmh, the curves are narrow and very steep climb. We make a few stops along the way to take pictures, in reality the landscape is so beautiful that you should stop every mile, and will remain so throughout the journey.
The descent towards Ouarzazate is sweeter and can take a slower sustained: we get to our hotel after about 3 ½ hours of actual travel, stops included. The hotel, the Kenzi Azghor (€ 50 with breakfast at hotel) is nice, with beautiful pool overlooking the beautiful and warm day (26 degrees, we are at 1200 meters above sea level), we decide to relax a bit 'before out for the first visits.
The sun is hot, water cold, it will be 16 degrees ... but Davidino not stop anyone, and after two minutes is already in the water shouting for the frost!

We go towards the late afternoon and we go to visit the Atlas Studio, where the sets are used for many films, like The Sheltering Sky and Asterix. The place is a half boiata and 5 euro entry are exaggerated. The scenes are abandoned, save the reconstruction of Egyptian temples and the splendid view you can admire the desert.

Returning to Ouarzazate we trace the long road that crosses the oasis town and passes through the picturesque Kasbah of Tiffoultoute that the colors of the sun is setting, decks himself with red.
For dinner we decided to stay at the hotel since we are pretty tired (it was the alarm at 3 am) and we accommodate in the desert restaurant (just us, then get 7-8 other people) which offers a buffet skinny: Rice , grilled chicken, meatballs, vegetables, some sweet, but at least we spend just 20 euro in 3 (council pay cash directly to the restaurant, it seems that cost less than the charge on the account).

Ouarzazate – Zagora

A beautiful day, blue sky and not even a cloud. The view from the terrace of the hotel embraces all the mountains and the palm grove. We go on foot to visit the nearby Kasbah of Taourirt, on the edge of downtown. Upon arrival we find a boy who offers a guide to visit the kasbah, where people still live. Let's make a beautiful ride across the narrow streets, we can look around inside the houses and see how primitive life takes place every day in this place: women wash outdoors, there is no running water, only the current. We follow all the walls with beautiful views of the towers of clay and in the end we find the entrance to the tourist restored kasbah. We greet our little guide is jumping for joy with a handful of 3 euros and enter in the kasbah (€ 2). The patio overlooks beautiful buildings, tall towers that seem embattled building sandcastles and contrast with the intense blue of the sky is beautiful. The interior is a labyrinth of corridors and rooms, some of which are tastefully decorated. At one point we even get lost, ask info to a worker who asks us if we go to the terrace. We thus opens the doors that are not accessible to tourists and leads us upstairs where we admire a beautiful view. Tip and thanks.
Start from Ouarzazate towards Zagora and through another mountain pass, not as tall as the Tizi-n-Tichka but even more wild and spectacular, with rocky mountains smoothed by the wind, spectacular canyons reminiscent of the shape, in very small scale, in Grand Canyon.
Stop for lunch at a restaurant in Agdz, where to eat in a beautiful garden under the umbrellas sheltering from the sun splitting the stones (temperature about 28 degrees): grilled skewers served with mixed vegetables and soft bread, two servings are sufficient for all three (€ 12 with drinks).
Share and suddenly, the landscape dall'aridità encountered so far, it appears as if by magic, the verdant Draa valley that stretches over 80 kilometers. Along the banks of the River Draa arise lush palm groves, whose majestic mountain backdrop the reddish color, the landscape is really beautiful, made even more amazing by the many who seem ksour Kasbah is perched among the oases.
We first stop at the Ksar of amenougalt that dominates the landscape from the top of a mound, with the underlying village entirely in clay. The ksour had been built to regulate the access of trade routes and caravans that came from the desert.
Soon after we park the car on the road and take a leisurely stroll through the narrow streets inside the palm trees: one can observe the various crops, systems for moving water that feeds the oasis, women washing in the river, children who ride the mules that they come at you for a candy, a picture, a smile. We leave in the car and we stop as soon as we see a group of children and we have some 'candy to distribute: assail us, climbing on the hood, coming from near the window and yell bon bon, bon bon .... Davidino remains frozen, big thrills for a child at age of 8 years at all accustomed to scenes removed from our everyday reality. We continue the march but the beauty of the landscape compels us to pleasant and constant stops to admire an incredibly beautiful landscape: through various kasbah, like Timiderte of Idgdaoun of Tinsouline some scenic spots that have different views and superlative ever.
We arrive at Zagora and reach our hotel, the Ksar Tinsouline, very nice looks like a real clay ksour, typically Moroccan in this region with an enormous palm grove, a beautiful pool area and an elegant restaurant (€ 69 the triple half board Planigo). Do not waste time and go to catch the last sun of the day, even here the water is cold but we ... .. inside!
For dinner we eat divinely including half-board and the restaurant is open only for us 3, but the menu is great, you can choose from 5 starters, 5 main dishes and 5 desserts as we take a tasty appetizer with tomato paste, as two main course tajine with chicken and the calf perfectly presented and cooked, while David finds immense cutlet with french fries. We conclude with fruit salad, orange, cinnamon and a delicious coconut cake. Here too, an impressive ratio quality - price!

Ouarzazate – Erg Chegaga

Here we are waiting for the day than the entire journey, one that will lead us in the Moroccan desert to the majestic dunes Erg Chegaga. But let's go with order: head towards the south and the border with Algeria and we stop at the town Taemegroute that surprises us positively. Now we are greeted by a guide that asks us if we are together here a guide is almost essential if you want to get into the heart of the village, untangle the maze of tunnels and really understand how life unfolds in this remote place, where l ' existence is really difficult and people have to contend with the heat, with the advance of the desert, with health and sanitary conditions at the limit of decency.

A Taemegroute, an important center of Islamic culture and pilgrimage, many pilgrims come to implore healing before the tomb of Mohammed Bou Nasri, also founder of the Koranic library we go to visit. We find a lovely old man who explains the history of ancient manuscripts in Italian and continues to joke nicely with David, give him a pat on the back, took his hand, pulls him, made him repeat the explanations ... a joke.
We then pass in the heart of the village, down in tunnels where people lived here below, explains our guide, when the outside temperature exceeds 50 degrees here one can resist the temperature not exceeding 35. Taemegroute is famous for the production of pottery: visit the laboratories, the people who work, outdoor ovens, very interesting.
We leave and soon after we face the small but fascinating dunes Tinfou that appear out of nowhere from a rocky desert. Cross another step that breaks the desert landscape, the scenery is always very spectacular. Among M'Hamid to Zagora, where the road ends, there are about 100 km, the road is a race and when we meet a vehicle, one shall fall dall'asfalto: rest assured that you will always do you in ... . because others do not move an inch.
We arrive at about noon M'Hamid and lunch in a snack bar hallucinating: 4 tables outside and inside, crumbling walls, a sink where a drop of water falls from God knows what ... and a fridge.
The menu consists of 5 plates, the first 3 are not available are still tajine (made from who?) And kebabs: opt for the kebabs, and we accommodated.
After 30 minutes we see the boy running away from the bar bike ... back after a while with charcoal. begins to light the barbecue and cook the kebabs ... .. Oh!

There are two places in Morocco that have the opportunity to experience close to the majestic Sahara Desert: the first, the best known, crossed by the main tourist routes of the tour operators and organized groups and Merzouga. Easily accessible from the provincial and offers numerous possibilities of excursions, overnight, so that the visitor is immediately assaulted by touts for trips and you will most likely come to the crossroads of caravan tourists in the desert ... well, a little bit to be called the desert .
But there is another place in Morocco, far less known and tour guides just mentioning it is called Erg Chegaga and offers a stunning natural spectacle, with the highest dunes in the country that reach a height of over 300 meters. Most importantly, a place more difficult to achieve and thus retaining the charm and sense of adventure.
To reach the dunes Chegaga is necessary to reach the small town of M'Hamid and continue for about two hours in the desert off-road. E 'therefore necessary to rely on some local agencies.
After several painstaking research on the internet and found the solution here: the small technology Hassan offers eco-tourism, environmental impact and carefully composed team of real experts Bedouin desert environment: Bivouac sous les étoiles.
Take granted by approximately the route that we do and send a deposit. After a welcome with mint tea and some indication, we buy the water for 24 hours and we are ready to go off road.
The desert environment seems at once beautiful and wild, mostly rocky, with the background of imposing mountains, sand banks and a few lonely palm.
After about an hour and a half we reach green oasis, where we stop and Hassan begins to fill up bins with water from a stream flowing between the palms.
I ask what will all that water and he replies with a smile ... to the baths, for the car ... for you, for dinner. I give him a pat on the shoulder and told him that the water for tea and for dinner, I give you ...
We continue for another half hour until you see the incredible dunes in the distance: the environment is incredibly fascinating, at the foot of sand dunes that rise majestically, lies a green meadow where the camels graze it seems like a landscape painting, unreal.
Here we are at camp where we spend the night: we are us 3 and 5 Bedouins who occupy the camp. Show us the kitchen, the tent for dinner and we spend the night inside which is hellishly hot in the afternoon, while outside the temperature will be around 28 degrees. I am surprised by the bathroom: I was expecting a Turkey with a hole and instead emerge from the sand here is 4 toilet connected to a water tank which also offers a shower ... amazing!
We are surrounded by sand dunes and perhaps we are the only tourists in this evening off of 50 square km, the feeling is simply electrifying.
After another hot mint tea (I checked ... they used my water!) Are ready for long walk in the sand that will lead us into the top of the highest dune to watch the sunset. Takes about one hour during which different scales dunes, from the top of which appears every time a breathtaking view, nothing compared to the one that will offer the large dune Chegaga: an endless view over a sea of dunes made no end, which lost horizon. The sun begins to fall, making the rain. We enjoy this unforgettable moment sitting in silence, which is broken only by the cries of David begins to run up and down the dunes until you stand it anymore.
Return to camp and prepare for dinner, which comes served in the main tent. You sit on big cushions, you can dine by candlelight and oil lamp, with soup and tagine of beef and vegetables. Evening pass pleasantly with songs, dances and drums of the Moroccan friends now, we offer the best of their tradition.
It 'time to go in our tent for the night, we go out and admire another incredible spectacle: there is an inch of the sky that is occupied by a star, so bright as to glimpse the dunes in the dark.
The night quickly becomes cold and covered us with all the blankets that we have available.

Erg Chegaga - M’hamid – Ouarzazate

We wake up before dawn and observe another moment so simple but so wonderful: the sunrise from the dunes.
We have already prepared breakfast on a table outdoors in the dunes beside the tent: bread, jam, orange juice, cheese, milk and mint tea. Suddenly he gets up a slight wind that begins to slowly move the sand beneath our feet. The visibility is reduced soon ... Is preparing a sandstorm.
We are ready to leave and quickly let the dunes behind us we stop for a farewell note that over the dunes and the sky begins to turn brown, the storm threatening even if they tell us that this is a very light storm. To return to M'Hamid walk along a sandy track between dunes lower, where we often must stop to find a way for the jeep. Two more hours and this is the point of departure, we salute our fellow travelers who have been very competent and courteous, we take our car and proceed to the next destination of Morocco, with even the boundless, beautiful and incredibly fascinating desert in the heart .
Let us take our car and we walk back along the road to Ouarzazate, again admire the wonders of the Draa Valley, where we still have some rest, after which we return back to the hotel Kenzi Azghor and take a tour of the old city, consisting of one ' huge square surrounded by bazaars, restaurants and clubs.

Ouarzazate – Marrakech

We start early because we want to be among the first to arrive at Ait-Ben-Haddou, the most picturesque and best preserved kasbah visited Morocco.
I had read that this place is so crowded with tourists and local insistently trying to sell all kinds of goods and services, not being able to fully appreciate its beauty.
Maybe the fact that we arrived quite early, around 9.30 in the morning hours when the bus loads of tourists had not arrived yet, we have not had that feeling, indeed, was a place that we visited with great peace and quiet, only sometimes with great politeness invited to come to browse in some shops or home.
The road reaches Ait Ben Haddou is detached from the provincial and runs for about ten miles a green valley. La Kasbah magically appears after a curve, perched next to a hill of red sandstone with clay crenellated towers that rise to the intense blue of the sky is truly a wonderful vision.
Parking in downtown seconded and descend on foot into the river, which at this time is in full: the only way to cross it and reach the kasbah is to ride the donkeys and bargain with the kids pass. The three obtained for 3 euros return and begin to wade the river ... The guys tell us to access the kasbah from the back, so as not to pay the entrance fee (1 euro saved well) and we climb the hill to reach the highest point, where some ruins, but above you can admire an unforgettable view: our feet is towering buildings typical of Ait Ben Haddou that seem almost unreal, imposing towers overlooking the houses built next to each other, mud and earth create a fascinating set, the river separates the town from a dense palm grove with snow-capped mountains in the background.
We go down to the maze of narrow streets that sometimes end up in arcades and fortified castles, the walls etched with elegant geometric designs and elaborate arches clay. I have the feeling of walking into a kind of huge crib.
Now only a dozen families still live in this place, a woman invites us to enter his home, a cramped room with carpet seating, a kitchen and a courtyard with two goats. Gives us a mint tea, shows us the pictures of the beautiful granddaughters, we make one together and gives us the address to send them. Further up the valley we arrive at the foot of the majestic Ksar, one of the best preserved of Morocco.
Ait-Ben-Haddou has been repeatedly used as a natural set for several films including Lawrence of Arabia, which is why many have been restored and brought this gem, extremely delicate, was preserved intact to this day and is now right protected by World Heritage.
An extremely attractive characteristic that it is impossible to forget.

Travel over the Tizi n Tichka, where today brings a strong wind. We make a stop at a nice place where seller can trim two unnecessary mineral fuels, but eventually sighs and says it was tough with me and was I earn. ... Yeah, right.
We arrive in Marrakech quickly, easily find the detour to our resort, Coral Palmariva (€ 60 in half-board, over € 25 for the all inclusive supplement payable in 3-spot booking on the hotel website) and we settled in pool to enjoy the warm rays of the sun, now a bit 'obscured by veils.

Marrakech

We negotiate with a taxi outside the resort a move to Medina (€ 7), exactly the Tombs Saadian. E 'early morning, about 9:15 and the place (€ 1) is already very crowded by groups of tourists. Moreover, the most spectacular tombs are visible from a small opening and formed a little 'in a row to await their turn. Are richly decorated, a real shame that we can not admire them more calmly.
We go out and seek the direction of the Palais El Badi (€ 1), which attacked but we turn off the map seems a bit ', I feel empty ..., to find it.
The remains of the majestic palace are a bit 'too much in ruins, it remains little but the size is impressive. There are places better, anyway. The walls can be seen with the huge number of stork nests.
Exit, the kids, who probably have skipped school, accompany us to the next stop: the elegant Palais de la Bahia (€ 1). The building is very nice, thick decorated in Moorish style somewhat reminiscent of the Alhambra, but the place is very crowded and difficult to grasp fully the beauty. Beautiful marble floors, tiles Zellij, the courtyard filled with orange groves from which you access the various rooms, the ceilings of cedar painted with arabesques. The classic building from the Arabian Nights.
From the building, walk down the long street that runs through the Medina, including improvised butchers with flesh hanging outside and live poultry in the back, fruit market and a lot of jobs that do not allow you to walk quietly.
We arrive in the famous Djemaa el-Fna by day a bit disappointed 'we are immediately assailed by sellers, snake charmers (I find a snake around his neck), monkey tamers, women who paint henna, musicians in costume who want a photo . The square is huge but very bare of days, the best view can be seen from the terrace of one of the many bars.
The beautiful sight of the square with the background of the Koutoubia, the famous pink stone minaret of the mosque that crime, you can not visit.

Marrakech

With the usual taxi, which now know us, we do bring back to Medina, this time from the east, just at the District Tintori.
Now a person comes to us with a sprig of mint and tells us if we get in a tannery, the mind serves to confuse the incredible smell emanating from the tanks, never felt a thing. I log on my own and do the rounds of pools: people are knee-deep in these tanks where the pigeon poop is used as a natural acid. Awesome. After the tour I asked the kind offer crazy, 10-15 euro. The cue with 4 euro, saying that I must also offer drink ...
We walk toward the center with even the smell under his nose, we come to the Medersa Ben Youssef, one of the most extraordinary places of Marrakech. (entrance in conjunction with the Museum of Marrakech and Koubba Ba Adiyn € 6). Is it because of the lack of tourists, the site shows an incredible peace and beauty fine.
This is a Koranic school in the country's most important and could accommodate, even though I have not figured out how and where 900 students.



The yard is amazing, with a large pond that reflects the walls richly decorated with tiles and many Zellij stucco. The courtyard leads to the beautiful mihrab, the prayer hall.
Let's look outside the only exit Koubba Ba Adiyn and head towards another beautiful building, that houses the Museum of Marrakech, in addition to the major exhibitions, strikingly elegant Moorish-style stand where the three fountains marble in the center's main hall. We head toward the center of Medina, but not easy to disentangle in the streets that seem a maze and, even with map in hand, you must continually ask the management.
We are suddenly immersed in the magical atmosphere of the great souk of Marrakech, the most fascinating in the world. They are grouped by product category, so you cross up the souks of leather, that of slippers, objects in metal, baskets made of wood and leather.
The most tourism is a long path covered with every kind of product. To purchase you must arm themselves with patience and start to a long contract.
Then reappeared at the Djemaa el-Fna, which we already know very well, but I promise to return in the evening when it transforms.
In the evening, then come back to the Medina, this time left his wife and son to the center alone. Throughout the Medina on foot from north to south and confined to the streets in the northern part is not encountered even a tourist. Medina seems never to end, I walk for about twenty minutes before finally finding the souq. The evening is flooded with tourists, but just leave the gallery and main deck delve into side streets only to find themselves surrounded by locals.
Now it's dark, and suddenly a violent storm breaks out: arrival in Djemaa el-Fna square and the square that day seems a bit 'bare, was invaded by an impressive number of stalls offering all sorts of cooking victuals, including fumes and smells that invade the air: tajine, kebab, couscous, fish and especially the infamous grilled goat's head, with its brains. A truly surreal, just for this extraordinary final weeks intensely lived in close contact with people from completely different traditions and customs from ours, but with a warmth and kindness really unexpected.

Travel hints

Morocco is a place with a minimum of experience can easily visited independently, even with children in tow. Apart from roads, other security issues are almost nonexistent: you will always be someone ready to help and to propose any kind of service, but if you want, just explain that you are not interesting that will leave immediately calm: yes, if you alone, every 10 meters there will be someone who will ask if you need something, if you need a guide, if you want to get a look at the shop, etc.. No retailer will be offended if you do not buy anything, no guide will tell you rudely if you refuse their service: qual'ora accepted, perhaps before the contracted price.
Turn always with change, often the kids ask you a few dirhams for a mere indication.
Turn in the kasbah with a guide is almost essential, can not extricate the narrow alleys and also yourself and you will see very little regarded with suspicion if you go into the most private places where life is taking place daily.
Always ask before taking a picture to people, never to women, but you always ask a tip.

Much attention in the car, you are always attentive to the road, never distracted, even outside the villages still find people walking by the roadside. Always sounds the horn and keep your foot on the brake constantly ready!

In some places the hygiene is poor, apply the usual recommendations on raw vegetables, fruit peel, water, etc.. Always check the fuel level does not drop below half.
If you wish to see the desert more authentic, go M'Hamid and organized an excursion with a local agency. We never found but in some very dirty toilet no flush, you must fill a bucket and wash.
No problem, particularly for children, will be captured by the very aspects of daily, from the incessant noise of Marrakech and its square, the charm of the desert and the Kasbah, although some scenes are a bit 'strong. My son was hesitant for the night in tents in the desert, in the end and enjoyed it a lot. If you have children, I recommend 3 days in Marrakech in a beautiful resort, with the possibility of alternating visits to cultural afternoon of relaxation and fun.
When you return your car at the airport, there are indications. Parked at the parking fee and bring the ticket to the rental counter.
The ideal time for a trip in the south of Morocco is from March to April and October-November, hoping not to be unlucky.
For the desert glasses, hat, sweatshirt heavy for the night, toilet paper, if you have a small flashlight, and plenty of water. ... Spirit of adaptation!