African Paradises. South Africa trip report

PREAMBLE
For the summer of 2003 I decided that the goal of my trip would have been Chile My friend Rosaria of which I speak, having contacted a few tour operators, I shall not hold an individual .... - "Go South Africa" - I said, I have a very good tour and I ... "Rosaria, in South Africa there have already been," but the word Africa triggers in me a craving, irrepressible and .... I decide for you.

18/08/2003
Direct flight from Milano Malpensa with South African Airways Arrival in Joannesburg to continue, then, to Cape town, first goal of the tour. At the meeting the other traveling companions, including two ladies in Naples, almost my peers and has been sympathetic and casino .... Neapolitan us so we made.
The goal that I am most at the heart of the entire trip, you stay at the reserve Kapama, located in the central part of the KRUGER PARK. The KRUGER PARK is the largest of South Africa with an area of 20,000 sqkm. (approximately as the Veneto), with the highest concentration of mammals in the world.

 

ARRIVAL AT BUFFALO CAMP

After a flight with a small plane and a short transfer from the reserve big jeep finally arrived. E 'il Buffalo Camp, nestled in the green bush and big trees, housing rested in large tents on platforms supported by long piles, connected to each other and common areas by wooden walkways. The joy is spreading in the group, we are in twelve pairs 3 and 6 singles, and short the fun turns into laughter, when the allocation of tents, each with the name of an animal, with amused amazement, I discover that my tent is the elephant and the jokes are wasted between the general laughter!

Afternoon at the Buffalo Camp.... the adventure begins!

After lunch we start for the first photo, already knowing the character of the winter climate in southern Africa, I am organizing with clothing: sweater, jacket, wool hat.
We start at the Camp where we expect off-road guided by two rangers not bad, arrival, as my usual, at the last minute and I discover with pleasure that they were given two seats in the upper part of the vehicle (they are placed at scalar, so that everyone can have a good vision). I climbed and I sit next to a Neapolitan, who now takes me all over my massive photo equipment, we are excited, it will be a night safari, is 16.00 and the sunset comes early in these parts, is at 18.00 already dark.
We note that our feet are in place of blankets, we wonder ... what will our curiosity will be satisfied, after a short trip, we begin to wear anoraks, replace the caps with hot cotton wool hats and the sun is still high on the horizon, there is constantly on these tracks between the bush, the characteristic vegetation of the place. Our ranger speaks only English, (but the group is a good translator) and communicates via radio with other off-road in the reserve, in order to share information about the sighting of animals. The first meeting was with a herd of buffalo, we keep a safe distance, because if a sample is very dangerous, a herd is a genuine suicide .... but the "beasts" are quietly ruminating, and we appoint just one look.
Leave, making the slightest noise, this large group to move into a clearing where it was suggested the presence of rhinos .... ... There are scarcely able to see you in the thick of the trees, are a mother rhinoceros with her .... ... Sic small (so to speak, already weigh 800-900 kg.), it remains silent, to observe, photographs and video footage, making nervous giggle, battutine mind, we are now just a short distance from the animals and their office is not not at all pleasant, even a decidedly dangerous, shortly after the couple is adding a third sheet, a superb male, the ranger tells us who is the "father" of little, yet we remain a po 'to observe them, then we move. Our goal is the search of the lions, you will not be easy, have a huge territory and run continuously during the day oziano under the trees and among the bushes, doing big sleep, especially if you have the "belly full." The racing vehicle continues without respite ... we will stop only for 20 minutes on a large dirt track overlooking an expanse devoid of trees ... it is already dark, but not the darkness ... that usually means there are no lights for miles, but we fitted with two powerful lights, and off-road light each other, we are down by vehicles, in order to pee (behind the Jeep), smoke and drink. There is a show that I do not want to miss and I admire the way I do ... salgo on off-road, I lay over the place, the higher and the rest, hypnotized, watching the sky ... .. the two lights were switched off , now it is dark pesto. I can not find suitable words to describe what I see .... are billions of points of light, the impression is that the heavens can not contain them all, there is a constellation that giganteggia in the central part, is that the Scorpio beautiful, but we see also The Cross in the South, are two constellations visible only in the southern hemisphere. I would stay the night, lying on the seat, his gaze lost in infinity, savoring the silent atmosphere of this enchanted place!
Yes again, we face the lions in some remote spot of the park, so we made a peep in the thick of the trees that we barely notice that the jeep slows and then degrade into a small clearing, and lighted by headlights ..., with l 'emotion that takes us, we see two lions, one male and indeed a female, lying comfortably, the position of our vehicle is not good, we are faced with the couple, to frame well, I have to lean to one side ... they are beautiful, I can not get used, even though I have seen many, their view ... I make a comment, which raises the hilarity of the group: - "now go down and I approach them" - and probably I would do it, are so excited that either 'any danger of being assaulted, I would desist, they would certainly run away, do not waste energy to attack, if you do not really feel in danger, those used to hunt. Shortly after, bored, they get up and slowly disappearing in the thick of the trees.
It is not yet over the magical evening, not long after, another interesting stop. On the shore of a lake, there are two large groups of hippos ed'elefanti, but the sight of lions has downloaded all the accumulated tension, and after a brief stop you again. The blankets, which were carefully folded at the bottom of the seats, we cover literally from head to toe ... is a cold and the speed of the vehicle accentuates .... are 20.15 ... we are about ten miles from Buffalo Camp, and then quickly return home. There is a succulent dinner that awaits us and will be served in the boom, an outdoor enclosure at the center where there is a huge fire, the tables are around the circle. A sweet boy is the great chef of this camp, we cuddle with its delicacies, and is happy when he sees that brushed voracious everything.
After dinner one is drinking coffee and smoking comfortably spaparanzati on wicker armchairs, always open to tell the adventures of the day, we are in 2 vehicles, six on each side and the comments from one car to another is not easy, because it should not ever speak out loud, especially in the presence of animals. Tomorrow there awaits a levataccia ... will be a photo at 4:30 ... wake up ... then after repeated hello and good night, everyone goes into their tent.
The tents are spacious and comfortable, but cold to die, instead of undress and put on pajamas, which in any case is lightweight jerseys, began to wear a suit and a sweatshirt, put the hat of wool em'infilo quickly, literally beating teeth, in bed, thinking that fortunately does not have to stay very much, it is midnight in a little over four hours back on their feet. In the morning I discover that the bed has a scaldasonno .... ... Damn!

Dawn at Buffalo Camp - the adventure continues....

4.30 hours - The usual zombies get together to drink coffee and tea, with pastries, cursing the cold suffered in any way, laughing at how we dressed. Climb on the jeep and each takes a providential deck wrapped in full, you must wait until the sun rises and begins to heat the air to get rid of the blanket and some clothing, clothes are a "puff of onion": cotton shirt, sweater or sweatshirt, jacket and wool hat, someone has even gloves. Yes, the car runs quite cold and the wind penetrates everywhere, the sky is colored slightly pink ... suddenly the sun peeping over the distant ... the lift and the sudden decline are here in Africa .... In a few minutes is already in heaven with all its glory!
After several laps, finally arrive in a wide expanse of trees that, for the period, the African winter, the presence of several elephants, many skeletons that appear to raise their arms to heaven.
A herd of elephants can quickly remove dozens of trees ... eat once the leaves begin to pull off the bark and virtually decreed the death of the plant. Many of these lie in the earth, down from their mighty strength.
Precisely in this wide open space with few trees, there is a herd of elephants that is working with diligence, to break the trunk with the branches more slender and then eat them, they are not nutrients as the leaves, but they must eat while in some way.
There are small, in particular one is a short distance from the jeep, play around with one arm, he does spin it with the trunk, it will be an exercise that serves to refine the use thereof. Suddenly an animal begins to move closer to our car ... the ranger tells us to stay calm, but in the meantime put a shot in the rifle barrel that is always resting on the dashboard.
E 'a young man, his goal is to sniff out what strange animal is our jeep, now sitting in the central and Testoni almost touches me ... someone is frightened, especially Laura, her companion, Mark, jokes levatosi and the cap, alludes to wanting to rest on Teston dell'elefante! Movie non-stop, rarely approaching in this way, after several laps around the vehicle, seems tired of the thing, and sign away, he does distance of about 20 meters, the rangers put in motion, but with him an incredible rate, returns on his steps ... and it freezes again. This "game" seems to have fun, in fact, we are most excited that frightened.
Moves away again, but keep an eye on us, shaking his head several times and assume a posture buffissima, crosses the forecast, you would like us understand that not in a hurry and there may even stay the whole day.
The rangers make another attempt, but, walking paths, our friend reached us again and we crashed. I saw the movie many times, after hearing the comments of all of us, the jokes and the constant puffs emitted dall'elefante
We are far from the path of a hundred meters, we have embarked in the trees, so it's hard to get to the dirt track, doing the slalom among the plants, but the ranger is accelerating the march back and quickly reach the trail, but not the elephant desists and a fast race, and it reaches us at the jeep plant, seal the road.
For a hundred meters on the track, there is another vehicle, our comrades quietly observe the passage of a bunch of elephants with the puppies, they have not realized, for the distance of what is happening .
The "young man" keeps us constantly under control, just feel and see a small movement of the vehicle is approaching suspicious smell and, with the trunk, the front of the jeep, now is a bit nervous, in fact, alludes to open the big ears, index This intention to attack. Our chances are not many, in fact only one .... escape, backtrack along the trail, hoping to catch him by surprise ... and that is the decision to take the ranger.
Filiamo fast, chased dall'elefante, which obviously does not surprise pick is made, enlarging c'insegue large ears and bars. Leave at the beginning of a climb, almost sadly, with the regret of having lost a friend, we have rice, stupidly, his attitude, but we know he wanted to defend its territory and females from our innocent invasion.
We return to the lodge, a hearty breakfast awaits you, from sweet to salty, sweet our chef has prepared himself with the liver with onions, which is certainly not in the scope tray ... if everyone uses them twice. even those who go to work the morning after drinking a cup of coffee! It remains at the Camp to eat, to explore its surroundings and observe animals moving freely in the common areas: it is a dik.dik, a tiny antelope the size established by the ranger who serves as chef, there is also a warthog, the famous Pumba, for those who have seen the animated movie "The Lion King" and around a magnificent hammock a male Kudu, un'antilope, turns freely, is an exemplary beautiful, without approaching the shoot, we want you feel calm and not go on. Our two rangers take a small lesson theoretical sull'avvistamento footprints, excrement of which appear on the tracks and how to determine how long the animals have passed in the area.
After lunch and a post-prandial nap, a pennica ops ... restoration .... Eheh ... we meet for tea that is served with a wonderful chocolate cake that the chef insisted wants us to taste, our resistance, justified by an "I will be increased in a frightening way to return from this trip," surrender soon and quickly brushed the slice of cake, which is simply delicious!

We are electrified!... Starting for the night safari.

16:30 start for the photo at night, usually clothing, same euphoria, everyone has the impression that it will be a profitable ride. It runs constantly on dirt tracks, you move away from the field to reach the places where there have been other sightings of cats. All of a sudden the radio we hear the voice of fellow ranger of the jeep, was sighted a group of lionesses and there are also puppies. We take on the spot with a lighthouse who searches tirelessly for the large trees on either side of the track, and that is where all of a sudden something that is seen slowing down the car .... You ..! there is no doubt .... There is a lion walking to no more than 20 meters away, point the camera, the closer the image and follow all the way ... it's quiet, goes about 50 meters, then out of the thicket of trees until the edge of the path and cross the street to no more than 10-15 meters from the jeep, is reaching the group, no doubt! Emotion makes us not even speak, we remain with bated breath to watch it until it disappears along a small path. We move about 20 meters, the rangers shut off the engine and begins to turn the light of the lighthouse at 360 degrees, there are lions around, whispers, and told to stay silent. I am sitting on the lower part of the car and I'm looking with great attention among the bushes ... all of a sudden with the corner of I see a shadow pass close to the jeep, abbastanza sudden gaze and emotion stopped me breath, farfuglio: "here" .. a lion is moving at 30 cm. from the edge of the jeep tour me ... shooting backwards, no one has noticed, were all intent on watching another lion that slowly emerge from the darkness behind us: it is a young male, you notice the beginning of a mane, and gives us another emotion, moving a few steps away from us ... .. that evening ...! Now the lighthouse illuminates only one place, where the whole group, s'intravedono puppies and there is also certainly a male, his roars break the silence that reigns around here. It 'time again, are 20.40 ... we have exceeded even the hour of dinner, we are so excited that tolerates the cold wind produced by the vehicle in the race. It was a wonderful meeting, we could not hope for better! Will remain indelible in our memory!

We are forced to leave.....

Africa is one of the last havens for flora and fauna, a trip into nature, a return to our origins, land that has seen the birth. Savor the freedom also saw in the eyes of animals that live in the beautiful national parks, which have been created in order to protect them, not having to tell in the future, our grandchildren, as an elephant or the fact it was fascinating to watch a lion that hunt.

Nice trip to everybody!