South africa 2004

 

A holiday (even if "journey" would be more appropriate) always begins long before the departure date, so much that as you reach places more or less desired you have a small perception to have already been there. However for months we worked (it's true... not all o us in equal shares, I don't have to take glories that I have not...!!), Because Kruger requires a reservation in advance, otherwise you can get what is available ..... what happened to us!
The fruit of our work involves an initial part dedicated to the famous Pilanesberg, Kruger, Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Parks with the right time to taste them as it should be..... and a big drop-up in Cape Town (see the title!), through Swaziland, Durban, Port Elizabeth, Wilderness, Oudtshoorn and Stellenbosch.

Just to make us understand that it will be a "hard" holiday, the Swiss airline, our great carrier, at Zurich makes us find a nice "DELAYED" alongside the LX 0288 flight Zurich-Johannesburg, I thought it only happens to the others, not to us! Given all, these Swiss show excellent efficiency, flight would be restored for tomorrow morning at eight, new reservations in South Africa are made for us by them and excellent accommodation at the Mövenpick with a bonus for dinner and phone calls.
The second attempt goes well, we can leave and travel well served, with on-seat screen. In addition to films, music and games (including the legendary millionaire!) we can watch the scene below the plane from the on board camera!
As landed in Johannesburg after 8,500 kms of travel we have to find accommodation for the night, which we did not expect. Hung on the info desk, waiting for its prey, a girl, as arrived, captures us and leads to his BB. Used to give lifts to tourists she leaves us at Caesar's for dinner and the first taste to Impala fillets. We tried also to increase our rand supply at the casino but with little results.

Pilanesberg

Yesterday evening the exit from the airport with our shiny red Toyota Condor, we've been a bit influenced from the narcotic effect of flight..... but today the right hand drive shows itself in all its evilness! Wipers activated instead of bolts, gear lever on the left, not to mention the inputs into traffic!
Heading to Pilanesberg we see the Hartbeespoort Dam, which is frankly anything special, and finally at 13:00 we arrive at the Manyane Chalet of Golden Leopard Resort. Taken the keys of our beautiful Lodge we are impatient to go in the Park.
We have a couple of free hours before the first night excursion. At the first meetings the emotion felt is strong also because, even if travel guides report a relatively easy way to see animals, we are absolutely not used to see elephants or zebras crossing the road!
We chose this park because of the excellent impressions left by other travelers that proved to be effectively worth. We expect to see more zebras, giraffes, impalas and gnus. During the first evening's trip we have been lucky, because we immediately saw a lion, then illuminated by the lights of the Ranger, some white rhinoceros and a coyote. We come back half frozen by the tour, the sky is always smooth with mega stars shining at night but the temperature is decidedly low. We have dinner at resort's restaurant: this time we taste the Kudu, very good.
Today wake up at 5:30, as we booked a trip on foot. After freezing on the usual opened pick-up (we are covered with blankets .... but it was not enough!). Our ranger (armed) tells us all the precautons to observe approaching animals.... this scares us a bit! Finally: three hours of walking in the bushveld..... But zero animals! Obviously they lead you in a "safe" area so the excursion is good only for a little physical activity.
We come back just in time to take advantage of the voucher for breakfast buffet, before it closes.
The beauty of these parks is that you can travel by yourself along the various dirt roads, so we restart our patrol. Luckily for us today there are 2 peaceful cheetahs walking a hundred metres from our road.

Sabie

The transfer of today was expected to be 2 days long, but to recover on the road map we have to halve the times. We refuse then to see the Sudwala caves and the Botanical Garden of Nelspruit, in order to aim directly at Sabie. We make a little pause to refuel the car... and ourselves! At the petrolstation there are some tables, we approach them, but they are all filthy with bones left on the tables! Sidewalk are even better, today we live of annuities with sandwiches stolen from the Buffet! We arrive in the early afternoon at Wayfares, a B&B managed by Sergio, a former Turin citizen transferred in South Africa from many years. The advice he gave us was precious: the rooms are very nice and well prepared. We still have time to see Bridal Veil Falls and Horse Shoe Falls, a brief look at some stalls for souvenirs and then we prepare for dinner, restaurants here close soon! Given that we are here to taste something different.... tonight is the time of crocodile!

Sabie

Cloudy weather, so we must renounce to see the Blyde River Canyon. Instead we see Mac Mac, Berlin and Lisbon Falls (names given them in honor of the first settlers of these regions) and Gods Window. We eat excellent pancakes at Graskop, they are typical specialties of this area.
In the evening we have to try, obviously, the famous Sabie trout, just not bad.

Kruger

We are lucky because today there's wonderful weather. We move towards the Blyde River and see the Bourke's Luck Potholes, rock erosions characterised by particular reddish color, created by the river. Then we look into the canyon and on the Three Rondawels, a breathtaking spectacle. Obviously we could not miss the photo on boulder suspended in vacuum (to act as the third subject, making the photo, was not the greatest thing!).
At 14:30 we arrive in Orpen and enter the Kruger. Along the road leading to camp Satara we meet zebras, springboks, giraffes and buffaloes, as business card it is not evil. At 17:30 safari trip we see few animals (an elephant with his puppy, and hyenaes worthy of note, a porcupine, zebras, giraffes and impalas). Freezing cool!
A light dinner at the Satara restaurant, and at 21:30 we come back and go to sleep.

Kruger

Second Kruger day. We are moving to north, heading to Letaba, when a big herd of buffaloes crosses the road, we better keep distance from them.....! Today we are seeing a lot of animals, as the first hippos living normally with crocodiles.
Before arriving at the camp an elephant (very close) got quite angered, and with its shout scared us all. After taking possession of our lodge at 17:00, we leave to go in a hut. The camp closes at 18:00, we are forced to race, but also deserves the visit. Here we can see an elephant with its puppy crossing the river, it is unusual see the puppy completely disappearing in the water.
There are also several hippos, and the sunset tonight is spectacular, truly African!

Kruger

After the cold of the previous trips, we would like to cancel today's one, with meeting with the ranger at 5:30! However we are rewarded, the presentiment of Maurizio comes reality, as we see a lion lying on the road and a lioness among the bushes.
We stopped his rest.... and soon he is vanishing in the forest. End of luck... and even end of sightings. We come back, clear the lodge and continue northwards to the Mopani. We see few animals. Finally at field the restaurant we can eat "a la carte", the buffet begins to steam. Meat does not betray anyone, good as always.

Kruger - Swaziland

The Mopani is a beautiful camp, even with swimming pool, but not suitable for those who want a direct contact with the Krugher and its animals. Satara and Letaba are much better for this purpose.
We run for the 50 kms that lead us to the Phalabowa gate and head towards Swaziland. We must cross about 40 kms of gravel roads to arrive at 16:00, and not after customs close. In fact we arrived late, and found the gate closed with lock, so we asked a lady there to call the officer who kindly carried out the formalities for visa and, after having paid the usual tangent, let us pass. It would have been a problem being forced to go back!
We still run several kilometres of dirt and mountain roads to reach the capital Mbabane. A distressing place, at seven o'clock in the evening there is no soul alive. Even outside the opened places there is always an armed guard! However the food is excellent (meat Casserole cooked) and we slept at City Inn... because we have not found the BB suggested by the Lonely guide.

Swaziland - Hluluwe

A brief visit to a Swazi village with local dance included, long pause for purchases at handicrafts market and departure for the Hluluwe park. No lunch, only some appetizers eaten into the car. We set in Nyala BB (140 Rand to sleep and breakfast).
For dinner there is only one restaurant, Savahana. Cla an me took the "flat" chicken, a whole chicken to eat!

Hluluwe - Umfolozi Park

For me night in white because of the chicken, and so I go to the park without having breakfast. It's true that here there are a lot of animals, especially rhinos. There is also a centre for the capture, to supply the Game Reserve, an excellent solution for the self-financing. Very interesting the elephants on the river intent with personal cleaning. But the exploit is a cheetah that we saw when we were about to leave, on a puddle, drinking a few meters from us. So tender the baby rhino with mum that we meet across the street. Unfortunately tonight we are forced also to eat at Savahana restaurant, really not so much.

Durban

We restart from Hluluwe and, on the route to Durban, we stop at Nkawalini to see Shakaland, a village rebuilt for a television series, today also a Protea chain hotel. A brief visit with a Zulu guide and a look to their typical dance, more evocative and interesting than Swazi.
Hamburger based dinner at Echove and arrival in Durban at 17:00. We set at the Parade hotel and leave out for two steps, while trying to move towards the centre a gentleman (a white man) seeing us in the classic tourist attitude asks us what we are searching for, and warns us by saying that it is very dangerous tomove on foot in those areas. It's only 18:30 and we are just a couple of blocks inside compared to the Marina Parade complex. We return quickly and effectively it is not pleasant.
We finally have dinner on the waterfront (fish!), a beer in a pub and we go to sleep at 11:00.

Durban

We take a look at Durban, moving quickly in the area of the port and then to the center to see the City Hall and main square. By foot we go up to Victoria, in the Indian quarter. There are not so much things to see but life around these streets is frantic, to mention the several hawkers of "telephone" and various sellers ranging from different types of candies to toilet paper! The Lonely guide says that this is an area of pickpockets, but we leave it unharmed.
At 11:00 we are again in the direction of Port Elizabeth, an error made on highway leads us to a turnoff for internal valleys, and... What an incredible number of people along these roads: students returning from school, women with incredible weights on their heads and men with wheelbarrows. Landscapes made all up and down, with very special houses consisting in rectangular plants flanked by a circular structure.
We have a break at Umtata at 18:00 looking for a B&B, but incredibly are all filled. We leave the city and find room in the Shell City Inn (349 R. - Friday offer). Given the scarcity of restaurants, we have a fast food dinner at the petrol station, with decent fish and chips.

Umtata-Jeffrey's Bay

As usual we wake up at 7:30 (but are we on holiday ??!!). Then breakfast at yesterday's evening fast food and then we take advantage from this stage in Umtata to visit the museum dedicated to Nelson Mandela. I can translate not so much and it is a sin. I'm able to identify the various stages of the aparthied that led to the detention of more than 20000 opponents of the white regime.
We restart again, yet today we need to do about 500 kms to reach Port Elizabeth. A step for lunch in East London, into a pub in front of the Indian ocean and..... first pizza of the holiday, acceptable and... heavy! We arrive in Port Elizabeth around 18:00, but from the wrong exit and instead of entering directly into the city, we continue into the R 102. Now it's night and we don't know well in what direction we are going. But we insist and we are rewarded. After another 70 kms finally we arrive in Jeffrey's Bay. We could not do a better choice!
We spend night in a beautiful chalet with 280 Rands (70 each, less than 10 euros!). 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen and living room with TV. On advice of the receptionist, dinner at De Viswijf, discreet fish and excellent white wine!

Wilderness

After huge shopping in the handicrafts stalls, we dedicate to little surfer shops in search for some t-shirt. We start again at 10:30, while the weather is spoiling, soon we will expect heavy rain. A step at the big tree, to be true not very interesting. For lunch we grant ourselves a bit of exclusivity at Plattenberg Bay; while we were eating all people got up, because of the appearance of two whales (it is true that there are some here!).
Our goal today is Wilderness, crossing Knysna (the rain may not make it justice) we will place at Dolfhin Dune B & B, right upon the hill. Unluckily all cottages overlooking the sea are already rented, it is a beautiful place, I would add a luxury place, at the excellent price of R.175 each person. Everything is brand new, even the bathroom has a shower and Jacuzzi bathtub. The housing is well equipped with attention to every detail.
We have dinner at the Griller, where we paid more than 700 R. for each oyster eaten (tasty!) with an abundant mixed dish. We're here to watch whales, but so far we have not been very lucky, we have seen only one.

Wilderness - Cape Town (Strand)

As usual we start early, with breakfast at 8:00, when our manager surprises us yet. A sheet is delivered us where we may sign what we intend to eat, cool! Even today we expect the usual countless hours by car, it's an holiday...... passed by car! The weather is beautiful when we head to Cango caves, beautiful but commercial destination. It's noon when we finish the Swartberg Pass climb, crossing a dirt road that climbs up to 1600 m. Here blows a bloody wind, we make 2 photos and rapidly descend. It's late to stop in an ostrich farm, so... No fillet steaks for lunch today!
To reach Cape Town we have to make a step further, the landscapes are always beautiful, encouraged by these incredible roads. Maurizio is at the steering wheel to drive from 13:00 to 19:00 for the long travel going up to Strand. This is an area with many holiday accommodations but very few of them are B & B or Hotel accomodations, occasionally there are signs that indicate a B&B but then always, mysteriously, you can not find it. At the end we rent an entire apartment for 140 R. each. Steak for dinner at the usual Steak House and then we go to bed. In these houses it's freezing cold, but fortunately there are incredibly thick blankets!

Cape Town - Stellenbosch

Today patrol of the Cape peninsula, even today with a good weather. We start with the Simmon's penguins a fast visit...... seen the unbearable smell that they issue. We run along the Cape coast, to enter the park we pay 35R. It's suggestive to think of a map of Africa and imagine you as a little dot at the extreme southern point of the continent.
Everyone can not miss the Cape of Good Hope, I have to say that oceans are not so stormy as I imagined. We come to Waterfront just in time for the visit of Robben Island.... oh, God! We have to run as mad to get on the catamaran. Our thoughts go to the Pulsar... we hope we have not to dance! It's such a pity to have not a translator. The stories about the prison told us by our guide would be very interesting. The comeback is a bit "moved" and someone suffers.... we retrieve the car to go to Stellenbosch and set in the Devon Valley, a Protea chain hotel, this time we don't care about expenses, 290R. per person. We leave for dinner...... only in three, because GB has been "damaged" by the catamaran excursion. Luxury restaurant and a super-bill (180R.) for spingbok beef, red wine flavoured with not exceptional wine (14.5°).... we are downed. Not satisfied from the treatment, let's go to disco-bar, great nightlife in Stellenbosch!

Cape Town

Second day at Cape Town, travelling motorway we are able to see the township we hadn't noticed the night before. Among all, it strikes me that people here is used to cross the highway! They literally climb the concrete guard rail... and maybe someone saved himself too!
Today is a mega-day, but now that we are outside we discover that there is wind, we bring ourselves to the the cable-car for Table Mountain station... Unluckily it is closed but, however, we are satisfied from sight here, already good.
The sky is deep blue, but the Table is not visible. We move to visit the downtown and the Waterfront. By chance we meet our friend on vacation from his uncle. We return early in Stellenbosch for wineries. We arrive at 17:30 but everything is already closed, so we opt for the better supplied market. Dinner and bed, tomorrow early wake at 6:30!

Cape Town - Johannesburg - Zurich - Malpensa

The last day here is already arrived, we return car with as many as 5400 kms. Here we discover that the low cost flight of Kulula.com is actually a British Airways one and, differently from our cheaper flights, a good breakfast is served to us.
In addition to this, the hotel has prepared us the breakfast-bag! Me and Cla, interested to see Jo'burg, organize a tour. At the usual info-point, already useful to our arrival for B&B, we find a boy that (for 50 Euros) brings us to the city for a visit. We opt for the African Museum, which collects a bit of everything. There's an interesting section dedicated to the first political prisoners and the reconstruction of a split in the townships, including sounds and noises. Then a climb to the 50th floor of the top of Africa with a great view of the city. This tour enables us to understand that this city is very dangerous: even during the day the impression is not good, especially for a white person.
At the airport we spend the last money in wine before boarding.

Reflections...

Finished to write on 07/09/04, for me it was also necessary to remember the journey, because during it was difficult to me to give diary a fair assessment. Now that I realize that another trip is over, I am happy to keep it in "my archive". In the final analysis every travel is always a trial; I know that for the group I was not always able to give what they needed. I also wish to thank my comrades: Claudia, that with its smiles maintained Humor high, GB, for the security that gave us and Maurizio for having accepted our ever-changing program!

Enrico