South Africa "On The Road" travel diary

The idea of our "South Africa on the road" was born from the desire to make a trip to a fascinating corner of the world. The truth is that we had originally chosen as the destination Patagonia (Chile and Argentina) and reaching the far south of America, Cape Horn. Unfortunately (or perhaps, with hindsight, fortunately), because of the difficulties encountered (the complicated flights do not allow us to make the most of 12 days we had available), we chose, not without misgivings, for South Africa . In fact we started out without too many expectations, and perhaps precisely because of this, South Africa has been a truly wonderful country, to be run far and wide in full freedom ... Before leaving we had planned an overview of the various stages of our journey. The idea was to make us all along the coast from Port Elizabeth to Cape town, and then cut toward the north-east to Johannesburg, and then spend the last two days in a Private Reserve to take part in some photo-safari, the only certain things were to get to the 23/01 morning in Mossel Bay for a trip already booked via internet from Italy, and to be in the early afternoon of 28/01 at The Lodge Ingwe Karongwe in the Game Reserve ( this book before you leave). The flights to reach our point of departure were: Venice-Monaco di Baviera, Monaco-Johannesburg, Johannesburg-Port Elizabeth (about 18 hours total travel from Venice to Port Elizabeth). The return however was expected from Johannesburg via Frankfurt to Venice (about 15 hours total travel. Cost of all parts: approximately EUR 960.00).

 

First day: Froma Port Elizabeth to Tsitsikamma National Park - Km 215

After a good amount of hours of flight finally landed in Johannesburg. The stay at the airport was brief, just the time for a sandwich and to order, the modest sum of 69 Rand, the appropriate adapter for sockets (which are probably used only there because of that type had not ever visa before then). Finally, after spending almost an entire day in air or at airports, the last flight takes us to Port Elizabeth, from where it started for all intents and purposes our journey. In Port Elizabeth welcomes us the perfect climate: the heat of sunshine, tempered by a slight breeze coming from the (at the face of the winter climate of the Italian January !!!). First let's take the car already booked from Italy. Over time we take the panic to drive on the right because everyone already vaccinated from previous experience of driving in Britain. Started out with great enthusiasm, we decide to stop immediately on the sea front to celebrate with a dip in the Indian Ocean the beginning of, and to "wash away" the weariness of the journey and to get comfortable. We follow the N2 in a westerly direction to achieve the first goal Tsitsikamma National Park, but about half way we decide to make a puntatina at Jeffrey's Bay, famous home of surfers. The town does not seem nothing exceptional, but the people who live prorpio gives the feeling of being very "cool". We stop here only the time to make a few purchases in the Billabong Surf Shop [tel: (042) 296-1797]. The return trip. Immediately after the bridge over the Storms River we stop for a quick lunch in a subspecies of fast-food (there was nothing else nearby). We put the teeth in something that would resemble a cheeseburger (and prefer not to speak about the French fries). To swallow everything and try to taste the Fanta to grapes ... Attracted by a cartel of information we stop along the road a mezz'oretta to see the Big Tree: using a very easy path through a dense forest, you reach a large tree that stands so impressive compared to other but frankly there seems nothing that, or at least not worth the stop. A little later, with a shift to the left, leave the N2 to head towards the entrance to the Tsitsikamma National Park. Theoretically you should pay to have access ... but it was late and the excuse to get some free photos, with the hope of being able to sleep at the Storms River Mouth Rest Camp [tel: (012) 343-1991, fax: (012) 343-0905; www.parks -sa.co.za or directly on tel: (042) 541-1607]. The initial idea was to sleep in tents "in the ocean shore, but the strong wind and the clouds threatening us to rent one of the many bungalow (Forrest Cabin, for 225 Rand) well positioned in the 'Campsite ". The property there are only two beds (which we adapted without problems), a table and nothing more, outside of the room there is a grid to make the BBQ (the first thing I think is that the company is not 'as the ideal place so romantic ... but what we can do). Before dinner we are on the rocky coast along the Otter Trail (trail otter). The trail (which would require 5 days to walk to be completed) is exciting, even spectacular on the large waves breaking on the rocks. Different rock climbing through dense woods and, having found the lair of a cave, try to arrive before it gets dark to a waterfall marked on the map. Unfortunately, the decline of the sun forces us to return to our accommodation. Dinner in the beautiful Storms River Restaurant (the restaurant attached to the campsite) where we try of course to taste the cuisine of South Africa, enjoying the springbok (antelope) and ostrich (ostrich). Excellent dinner with only 400 Rand in three. After a couple of games of chess, which virtually took the challenge started in the plane, collapsed in a deep sleep.

Second day: from Storms River Mouth Rest Camp to Knysna - Km 110;

We wake up very early (7:30) fault stupidly forgotten the only window open all night. Outside there is a beautiful sun, so much so that we would like to have breakfast (100 Rand) on the naked chest on the terrace of the restaurant the evening before. We decide to go and see the suspension bridge at the mouth of the Storms River ... nice walk! Back to square one we see the possibility of a hike with the rafts along the river, but unfortunately was booked on the day before: nothing to do, we have no time to lose, so to switch to another attraction: the BUNGEE JUMPING [ tel: (042) 281-1463]. We threw himself from Bloukrans River Bridge: the leaflet says it is certified by the Guinness Book of World Records as the highest in the world ... there is no specified date, or so it is, or has been! Either way it's always a great leap of 216 meters! After a subtle work of conviction, can attract the madness of Marco launch, while Michael decided to follow us on the bridge just to watch the show (I am jumping ... I had already made a dozen in the past). The wait was fun, because it lived among the growing fear on his part, the apparent calm and my pure fun of Michele to see two unconscious as we do. The only crossing of the bridge put the chills (especially if you dare look down), but the presence of a sixty that had started before us has resulted in it becoming a matter of pride, especially for Mark ... The flight, as always, is something indescribable and intense (about 6 seconds of free fall), so that Marco and at the end of it all remains enthusiastic. Jump, video of the launch shirt and 690 Rand for a head (very little compared to what you pay us for emotions like). Start immediately, and after 20 km, provided by the N2, turn left to visit (72 Rand) Monkeyland [tel: (044) 534-8906; www.monkeyland.co.za]. This is a shelter that houses about 200 primates of 14 different species waiting to be rehabilitated and reintegrated into nature. The guided tour lasts about an hour and it is worth to be done! For lunch we head to Plettenberg Bay, a beautiful holiday resort. On Main Road we stop for lunch at the Blue Bay Cafe, a small pit in the shade of a tree, then calarci on the beach for a couple of hours of relaxation. After the first real blow of sunshine, a good 'burn continue to Knysna, the second half set. There is a beautiful pensioncina (565 Rand in three with breakfast in room), the Wayside Inn [48 Main Rd, tel / fax: (044) 382-6011; wayside.inn @ pixie.co.za] with a reception at strange man of color, which we nicknamed Jeffrey. A sample is required Knysna oysters, thus following the advice of the guides, we go to the Knysna Oyster Company [in Thesen's Island, tel: (044) 382-1693]. Dinner by candlelight (840 Rand including tip), has tasted oysters farmed that those "wild", as well as excellent prawns, all accompanied by a delicate Sauvignon of Stellenbosch (a major center of wine growing in the world-famous wine region located on the outskirts of Cape town). We conclude the evening back on the Main Road for a drink at the "Zanzibar" [tel: (044) 382-0386].

Third day: from Knysna to Mossel Bay - Km 490;

Before we return the full path: 28.8 liters per 111 Rand! We decide to move away from the coast, and then the Garden Route, to head north towards Oudtshoorn, however, through an alternative route, made mostly of pure dirt, where our guide "sport" for the occasion, is exalted. Oudtshoorn to choose (very randomly, or rather because of the road) the Cango Ostrich Farm [tel: (044) 272-4623; www.cangoostrich.co.za] as ostrich farming to visit. The opportunity to ride the tour makes it even more interesting. After some technical explanations on the characteristics dell'uccello, its large eggs, its soft feathers and its precious skin, come together in a short tour of the farmhouse. Before we do see the funny chicks, so we carried on the floor where two farmers have committed themselves to capture the "steed." The operation is done by means of a hook (which serves to immobilize the neck) to facilitate the hooded head. We were very impressed how, once incapucciato, the ostrich is completely fixed ... It is only then that you can fit back into the animal. We stand firmly on strong wings, concentrating to keep your weight back in order to maintain better balance. Then the cap is removed, and the moment quell'esatto ostrich begins to run at sustained speeds. How do you dismantle the ostrich? When the race is untenable for the neo-jockey, "simply" jump back and he comes out unharmed and have fun, in contrast to the fact that Michele was off dramatically, with ruzzolone on dusty ground! Ah, so you can ride you should not weigh more than 75 kg, but due to the attraction so much fun, well worth the punishment to a small lie, a little 'how did I "thief" a couple of kilos. Nearby are absolutely visit the Cango Caves [tel: (044) 272-7410; www.cangocaves.co.za]. Dwell in the dining room, ostrich-based course, losing just 5 minutes for the Classic Tour, so we decide to fall back blindly nell'Adventure Tour starting soon after. Our guide takes us through the various rooms making us admire beautiful stalactites and stalagmites, properly illuminated by efficient play of light. The show is visually very beautiful, but the leadership seems to us a little 'too well constructed, especially when it tries to look like anything the rocky concretions. All this instead becomes infinitely more exciting when we are in the highlight of the trail Adventure ... after a steep staircase literally begin to creep into burrows slightly larger than us. This is quoted challenging, especially physically (the internal temperature was about 18 ° C but the humidity reaches 95%), and then goes affronatata with the right spirit. Released from the Cango Caves dirty and sweaty, dating in the car for another trip in the mountains: in fact we aim to continue on the Swartberg Pass road that led us right there. Cross walk for 24 km along a spectacular dirt road with gravel. Going then enters the throat of a very intense red color. After the belle hours spent driving between beautiful landscapes of mountains, it's time to head back towards the coast because we get to spend the night in Mossel Bay, where the day awaits us after the boat trip in search of great white shark! Although the demanding day we had made enough "unpresentable" in Mossel Bay choose to dine with its Jazzbury's [11 Marsh St, tel: (044) 691-1923]. This turned out to be probably the best restaurant we tried everything in South Africa, both for the quality of eating and drinking (a good wine, of course, South Africa: a Pinotage of Paarl, another famous town in the Cape Winelands) or l ' impeccable service (840 Rand in three, including Lauta and deserved tip)! After a glass of local brandy and a lively discussion about asking the waitress for information on where to go to bed (there were already about 23) ... for pure kindness (in quell'esatto moment had yet to pay the bill, and then leave the tip) call to a B & B and, given the difficult instructions to follow to reach it, he insists to accompany ... in the end we send in a pub nearby where we expected a similar kind lady who brings us all'Highview Lodge [tel: (044) 691-9038, www.highviewlodge.co.za]. Distinguished gentleman in a dressing gown we rent a magnificent apartment (850 Rand, including full breakfast), with views of the bay. It 'really a shame it did not have enough time to enjoy cotanto we can shelter, because the clock is pointing to the 7:00 to 8:00 at the Shark Africa. Sipping a vodka-tonic on the terrace, so we slipped under the covers.

Fourth day: from Mossel Bay to Klein Bay (Gansbaai) - Km 660;

After a hearty breakfast all'Highview Lodge descend to the port thrilled with the idea that we are face to face with the biggest predator of the oceans, the great white shark! The surprise was not at all pleased when we found the office closed completely Shark Africa. Concerned for our travel call the phone number that we were properly transcribed, and to our surprise the other person informs us that the work on the boat which should have made out had not yet been completed, and then ... ok, ok, we understand ... great pack! But we do not take for losers, because here is not only to see white sharks (which can be done even in an aquarium equipped nostrano) from a boat, but there was an opportunity to immerse themselves inside a cage, for so you can see a nose and palms in their natural habitat! The biggest base of Shark Cage Diving in Gansbaai is (R43 south-east of Hermanus), a small town located exactly halfway between Mossel Bay and Cape town ... so enough of the road for us. From a flyer retrieve the phone number of a company of Bay Klein (small port on the side of Gansbaai), and so we booked the trip there for the following morning. These are then to find something alternative to fill your day and, simultaneously, to draw close to Gansbaai. We decide to go on the most southern point of Africa, which like many people think is not the Cape of Good Hope but the unknown Cape Agulhas, on the east side of the rocky headland of Point Danger. There is just the classic red and white lighthouse, and a simple stone that remembers that there is where the two oceans, the Indian and Atlantic Ocean meet. The stormy sea and a strange light that gives a stretch of coast atmosphere. Not much to do, so we decide to employ the abundant free time rimastoci to visit the famous wineries in the region north-east of Cape town. This stage was theoretically once visited Cape town and left, but since the catch had with Shark Africa to change our flight plans. Along the way we are surprised to meet a family of baboons that full freedom wander around the streets in search of a few tourists who stop giving them food (serious error). Among the famous Cape Winelands of Stellenbosch, Boschendal, Franschhoek and Paarl our choice falls on the very first chance, and in this case the farm Morgenhof [tel: (021) 889-5510; www.morgenhof.com]. This winery, founded in 1692, now owned by the French family-Huchon Cointreau Cognac, you can dine outdoors, immersed in a beautiful garden, under a big tree centuries. Eat well, drink and of course even better with an excellent Dine Reserve 2000 Pinotage (lunch for 300 Rand in three). Lost again in a strange debate eco-environment, we notice that they were only us and a lone peacock in the entire estate, so we wake blessed by gentle relaxation of the moment and we head to the tasting room (to be tested are pinot, Pinotage, Merlot, cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon blanc-Chenin blanc, for a total of 10 Rand per person for 5 samples). Enchanted by the superb wine can not do a look at the convenience store adjacent to the buy 3 bottles for a South African head of nectar, especially after having seen the impressive value for money! There is also the possibility to have it sent at home or at an Italian airport but also increase the cost of ten times the price of single bottle and then decide to take with us. Resumed the car reach the coast and then aim straight towards Klein Bay. The area is beaten by strong winds that make the scenery spectacularly "savages." Between Hermanus and Gansbaai being overwhelmed by a magnificent sunset at the ocean that will be with us until it reaches its destination. Without having too much choice, given the small size of the country, dinner (before getting in bed are still missed the challenge of chess between me and Marco missed ... especially for me because Mark can not win even once), sleep, and then do lunch at the Klein Center Tourism Bay (for a total of 1200 Rand).

Fifth day: da Klein Bay a Cape Town - Km 180;

Finally we go to sea in search of sharks! Having ridden the waves for a mezz'oretta to anchor near other boats, there are also in order to satisfy the tourists nell'avvistamento of sharks and nell'immersione inside the cage. Our boat, the Predator II, was captained by an elderly man tanned and wrinkled (Bryan), the classic icon of the old catfish. Sharks are attracted by the big baits, consisting mainly of heads of tuna and other fish offal different. Every now and then is thrown into the sea a piece of styrofoam shaped seal (of which sharks are fond) in order to recreate the shadow pile of water. After a while 'time we can finally see the first shark. In this it followed a second and third. Approaching the boat very much, so the captain and his hubs drop the cage into the sea. He explains, however (and indeed we see) that the visibility in water is very low. The disappointment is great, because after an interminable wait, we have seen (from very close it is true, but from the deck of the boat) only 3 sharks of "small" size (large probably 2 and a half meters) and still have their charm. .. but we hoped to come across a Bestione at least 5 meters! Discouraged by poor visibility conditions nobody wanted to dive in the cage. After a long pause (rather boring to be honest), the excursion was "raised" from Dyer Island when we move to the nearby Geyser Island to observe a numerous colony of seals with their pups ... beautiful (except the smell)! Return to port in mid-afternoon beautiful roasted by the burning sun, and after having paid for the trip (2520 Rand in three), we head towards Cape town. Here, in order not to lose too much time in search of a home, we throw ourselves in the center on a fairly large and teeming with hotels. We stop in the first decent we meet, and by 1050 Rand rent a suite (?) In Cape town Lodge. As the suite could not be beautiful, and large (so large that we can play football in the living room!), But unfortunately time is tyrant, and since Friday evening, had just enjoy the evening as the room. After consulting our guide we decide to dine at Africa Café [108 St Shortmarket Tel: (021) 422-0221; www.africacafe.co.za], a restaurant furnished in ethnic style, offering dishes from all over the continent (675 Rand in three, including the pre-dinner drink taken at the bar waiting for the table). That works for a fixed price you bring a dozen samples of dishes of a 'whole of Africa and then choose whether or not someone Bisse ... In short you could eat forever! Very nice is the performance of personnel (barefoot, dressed in traditional costumes and make-up properly) that at a certain time intones a hymn accompanied by tribal percussion of events. After dinner we take a taxi, and we do bring in Long Street. Just get off the taxi offers the classic drugs of all kinds ... seems to be that the greater the Magic Mushrooms ... We pulled in Kennedy's Jazz & Cigar Club [251 Long St, tel: (021) 424-1212] for a drink and listen to some 'of jazz. Changing locale and try Mama Africa the [178 Long St, tel: (021) 426-1017] so attracted by a complessino that with only percussion and voices creates an atmosphere electrifying. There we are taken by the pace, and following an incredible flow magic begin to dance and sing non-stop. I am even chosen by a group to collect tips amongst all customers of the local ... truly unforgettable evening!

Sesto giorno: da Cape Town a Laingsburg - Km 430;

We dedicate a few hours of the morning of Saturday the City Bowl area of Cape town, and especially the marketplace of Greenmarket Square (parallel to the Mall St George, lively pedestrian area where they often perform in local groups), where we buy some object d 'handicrafts. Then we drive to the Lower Cableway Station [tel: (021) 424-8181; www.tablemountain.net] to take the funicular that will take us on Table Mountain to enjoy the panorama from a height of just over 1000 meters. A particularly charming and atmospheric effect often occurs on Table Mountain: the clouds lay it on top of that, forming the famous "tablecloth." Once we head down south to go to the Cape Peninsula National Park [tel: (021) 786-2329; www.cpnp.co.za] along the pan and steep along the west coast which, looking back, there are the Devil's Peak and the tablecloth on Table Mountain. We make a short stop at Boulders Beach (10 Rand) to see the beautiful land protected colony of African penguins in 2300 who is living. E 'period of hatching and many penguins are in the midst of the bush to look after their own eggs. Temperature permitting, you can swim close to the animals ... we do not dare because the time is a failure. Driving along the M65 then we reach the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve (26 Rand) [tel: (021) 780-9204] where we welcome the baboons along the road. After a brief walk in a drizzle rompiscatole reach the courtyard of the lighthouse of Cape Point and we stop a moment to admire the vast ocean and the Cape of Good Hope. The next goal is to Kimberley and then, having to travel nearly 1000 km, take the N1 and try to grind the road as possible. We stop to eat at a service station along the highway up to Worcester and then continue until we find Laingsburg sleep at the Grand Hotel (360 Rand including breakfast). The name is a whole program, because it is badly reduced and decadent (it is sufficient to say that Mark has had to improvise hydraulic lock of the incessant flow of water...!).

Seventh day: from Laingsburg to Johannesburg - Km 1240;

Today tappone transfer! The crossing of the arid region was designed with the hope of being able to attend a continuing variety of landscapes ... really are not many, although there are breathtaking views. At about half way there is with the Kimberley diamond mines to be visited (once owned by the De Beers Mining Company, now the Anglo-American Corporation). The city is famous for being at the end dell'XIX century the center of the race to the biggest diamond in the world. We stop only for a short time, just the time to visit the Kimberley Mine Museum [West Circular Rd, tel: (053) 833-1557]. This village-museum "open-air" consists of historic buildings who want to recreate the atmosphere of the place of more than 100 years ago, seems pretty poor and not very interesting, but the visit is a must to admire the Big Hole. This mine closed in 1914, which is considered the largest artificial crater in the world with its 800 meters depth (of which the first 240 hand-dug), yielded 2722 kilograms of diamonds for a total of 14.5 million carats. Kimberley does not offer anything else: quick lunch at KFC (at the corner of George / York St and Bultfontein Rd) to try to reach Johannesburg for the night. A Jo'burg (as it is commonly called) will come with the fall of the sun, and entrandoci we can not fail to note Soweto, one of the most notorious South African township of the metropolis. The center of the city there seems very soothing certainly affect our view there are many precautions specifically highlighted by all the guides, as well as the appearance of the dark little streets lit, attended by groups of boys of color that only first acchitto not seem reassuring. Here in Jo'burg we want to remain so, we want to find a hotel that has ESPN, because this night is the SUPERBOWL XXXVII Marco and I do not want to miss. After you beat all the major international hotel chains, in a Holiday Inn is a friendly receptionist who shows us as the only hotel adjacent sports bar, the competitor "The Protea Gardens Hotel" [Tudhope and O'Reilly Sts, tel: (011) 484-5777; www.proteahotels.com] located outside the center. After having stretched the just reward, we go in this hotel at last, here we use the full facilities of the same grant, although it is already dark, a fleeting dip in the swimming pool. After a shower giving us a good restaurant dinner and calmly start to prepare for the sporting event. Although disturbed by a noisy group of British, we can enjoy the legendary Superbowl, together with a few liters of beer. Unfortunately, the game was rather disappointing and one-way, so a little 'bored and tired, for the hard day in the car, reluctantly decide to go to bed ruefully between the 3rd and 4th quarter.

Eight day: from Johannesburg to Barbeton - Km 600;

We need to better manage their day and a half that remains before the stay at home in Game Reserve Karongwe. So we choose to sconfinarenello Swaziland, just to see a different reality, and why not, to put a new flag on our map of places visited. Having got the paperwork at the border post of Sandlane, we will venture into the small African country. Along the E20 is the Milwane Wildlife Sanctuary Nature Reserve [Tel: (09268) 528-3944] and we decide to visit it. This reserve is the way to a first significant taste of the wonderful animals that will meet the next photo-safari. We can walk the trails with our car ... We can see up close several zebras, the warthog and antelope, and we recognize the gnu, but our curiosity is attracted by the small lake where there is one group of hippos. We hides in sacred silence for a good half hour, but they do not want to give us "photographers." Unhappy that he saw only nostrils, eyes and ears of the hippopotamus (impatient for the heat these large pachyderms prefer to remain completely immersed), continue the march toward the capital, Mbabane: nothing exceptional. So we return to South Africa from the frontier of Oshoek, around Ngwenya (open from 7 to 22, but the 13 crossings have different schedules and some close to 16), and continue northward. Since in the area there are big cities, we prefer to stop in the first we meet, Barbeton. Here accommodation (Rand 300 with breakfast) at the Phoenix Hotel [at the corner of Pilgrim St & President St, tel: (013) 712-4211, fax: (013) 712-5741], and as we stop there and dine. Me and Michael, in trouble with the translation of the menu, we order our knowledge of liver un'immangiabile you are unsure which animal. As we the only guests during a brief absence of the waitresses will use the opportunity to throw the contents of the pot out of the restaurant (for the good fortune of some cat ...). Let's go in the room very early to rest properly. It was not always mentioned, but the challenge of chess between me and Marco goes on incessantly, and always with the same result in my favor!

Nineth day: from Barbeton to Karongwe Game Reserve - Km 290;

The journey will take us to the reserve gives us the possibility of crossing the Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, but get there before we decide to visit some waterfalls along the R532. The MacMac Falls, the Lisbon Falls and Berlin Falls reach heights ranging from 70 to 90 meters. In all accesses to the waterfalls are nice local crafts markets where you can buy and take home a piece of Africa. " We continue in the direction of the canyon, there awaits us a beautiful spectacle of natural rocks excavated by the strong current of the Blyde River. The magnificent slopes covered with evergreen shrubs, the slopes and shapes of rock formations (such as Three Rondavels huts that seem Zulu) form a breathtaking nature reserve. Lunch quickly in a resort near the canyon to go then to the Reserve: 6000 hectares of bush with within 4 Lodge. Our in particular, Ingwe Lodge, not really anything wrong despite the choice made by the house he pointed to one of the cheapest among those offered by Turisanda near the Kruger. Baggage system, we relax by the pool a couple of hours taking some 'sunshine, reading and playing chess. Arrive 4 pm, and finally leaves for the first Safari. The entire staff of the Lodge welcomes us with a small banquet-based pastries and tea. Meanwhile Michael, our batter is closer to driving a Land Rover decapottata able to accommodate 9 passengers (in addition to the ranger driver batter and placed on a small seat on the bonnet). In the meantime is our ranger, Sunday (with a rifle barrels hub), and we leave. After mezz'oretta still not sight anything between us and began spreading to the nightmare already tried the Gansbaai expecting huge shark! Finally you see a warthog that splash in the mud of a pond, and then various types of antelope (springbok, bontebok, orice, kudu and impala, among others). In the meantime we remain impressed by the quantity and size of termitai (they are also high over a meter!) That cross the road. Time passes but the Big Five (rhino, Elephant, Lion, Buffalo, Leopard) even the shadow. By the way: contrary to what you might think, they are called "Big Five" not for their size but because they were once the prey of the most popular hunting, either for their mantle, or for the ivory, etc.. All of a sudden stop on Sunday and off-sets to observe the ground looking for tracks and footprints. We are increasingly perplexed ... there seems a little 'all assembled ad hoc for the classic stupid foreign tourists. Shortly after, however, we are dramatically wrong dall'incredibile beauty of a lion, a lioness and their pups 3 crouching in the shade of a tree. Silently we get up to 5 meters away and eye lucidi begin to take a disproportionate number of photos. Our happiness, mixed with curiosity and wonder, is literally palpable. Fail to capture the lions in all possible positions, even during a quick coupling. After a quarter of an hour spent in their "company" we are moving, regenerated and enthusiastic, looking for other animals. Quickly we can see an eagle, a fox and a small pair of zebras. From time to time there is still a bunch of antelope. Returning in the area of the lake sightings of suspicious movements of water to hair ... There are a couple of hippos, but as in Swaziland does not grant to our goals. Walking away, among the shrubs we see a giraffe, but with great surprise on our part does not stop Sunday, preventing you can do some shooting. Frankly we are annoyed by the attitude of the our ranger, because even a brief stop to admire a giraffe we're very interested in because of our shares is not seen often. Continuing, we see the gnu and licaoni. Sunday stops to observe the dung along the road and from there began the search all'elefante. Finally we reach it. The Elephant is committed to eating and so we can not approach too much, otherwise annoy you and escape, we are where we are but because of the thick forest we only glimpse. The last animal to note that we can see in this first safari, is a small cheetah with her mother, both confined within a large fenced area. The purpose of this security measure is to preserve the puppy by the presence of many predators within the reserve. Let us return to the Lodge and enjoy an incredible starry really satisfied the just concluded. The evening concludes with dinner by the light of a candle with oil.

Tenth day: Ingwe Game Lodge;

5:15 Sveglia hours because the second of four planned the safari at dawn, at 6 to be precise. No breakfast as it should, but the usual cup of coffee with cake. The real breakfast is scheduled at the end of the safari, ie after 3 hours! The schedule so "extreme" for the morning safari is justified by the fact that the temperatures at that time are still not high, so it is more likely that animals are not hiding in the shade of some bushes. The first animals to be seen are as usual the gazelles. The jump easily admire the way one after the other. Here again is the gnu, and then a giraffe. This time, Sunday brings the off-road and finally we immortality. We continue our trip in search of another big piece, and after a couple of information received by radio from another ranger we found a mammoth black rhinoceros and peaceful intent to graze a little 'grass. In our faces you paint a smile of satisfaction at having found our second Big Five. The rhinoceros is relatively immobile, then the subject is perfect for our shots. Returning to the Lodge we cross two adult cheetahs, this time free within dell'immenso reserve. He always found a certain effect in front of the fastest four-legged on the face of the earth! At the Lodge we enjoy a succulent breakfast. Due to the tiredness, the heat infernal and belly full, we invest the 3 hours that separate us from the lunch in a refreshing nap in a room under the blades of the fan. After lunch we start to put your luggage in view of the restart the next day, and we devote a mezz'oretta postcards for the usual ritual. At 4 pm on the third party safari. Of the Big Five, we are still the buffalo, leopard, elephant and even a seen. Now, to absurd, we are even tired of seeing gazelles on the right and no, because we aim at large "prey". We start a long tour of the Reserve which apparently seems fruitless. Sunday we confess that in that day wanted to find a leopard, an animal very aggressive but also very shy and timid, so difficult to find. Apart from the "usual" animals, such as another pair of giraffes, the search for the leopard is dimotrò been very challenging. Meanwhile, driving along a dirt road that runs along the bed of a dried up river, on the other side dell'argine we glimpse an elephant on the move. For us it is impossible to reach, so this time the pachyderm escapes us. Ok, let's say that the third Big Five have "evasive" by a hair. Return to leapfrogging leopard with the help of valuable tips of a ranger who, with the accurate information (incomprehensible to us because in the middle of the savannah is not, at least in appearance, not even a point of reference) helped us in finding the point exactly where it had been sighted a few minutes before. Dusk we enter with our off-road in an indestructible super off-road between the bushes, shrubs, dry rocks and brambles. All of a sudden Sunday asks us to try to sniff the air, but for us ordinary mortals of the city "the air seems to us only very clean, but nothing more. After only five minutes Michael makes us see, with the beam of his torch, the remains of a small impala and only then we can perceive its smell. That, said Sunday there was the prey of the leopard, probably the sound of our approach will have the unexpected feline suddenly stop making the banquet. Sunday off-road down from the gun to embrace pellustrare the area ... also try to wander a little 'with the Land Rover in those parts, but now it is not Stan. It is almost 20 and the third safari is surely finished. There is just time for a brief stop in a very dark: surrounded by a deep and dark lit only by the headlights of the jeep unit for a quick picnic night. Return to the Lodge where we expected a dinner prepared around the fire. Since the next day there's another wake up at dawn for the last safari, after chatting at the table, you go 'straight to sleep!

Eleventh and last: from Karongwe Game Reserve to Johannesburg International Airport - Km 7

Even on our last day in South Africa at the alarm sounds. Waking up at 5:30, come dall'inesorabile ringtone of your phone to the direction of the Lodge makes sure that all participants in the safari are operational for 6 o'clock. This is our last safari here to Karongwe Game Reserve, and the list of the Big Five will miss only leopards and buffalo (and if ever it were possible, maybe even an elephant seen well ...). Sunday is willing to give everyone, so we start searching for the leopard. After nearly an hour of patrol and a dozen dates and information received with other rangers, we can find a beautiful copy of leopard. We remain at a safe distance to admire in that quarter of an hour, between a picture and the other, but we notice that the animal is intent on devouring a prey (probably the hunted the night before) ... Unfortunately time is Sunday and we anticipate that our demands on the elephant can not be answered. Indeed the subject is extensive, and elephants and buffaloes are usually the opposite of this, and then, after the latter certainly would not have time for other material. Walk down a dirt road outside the reserve, which quickly leads us into a fenced area where he lives a herd of buffalo. One of them, intrigued by the off-road approaches us and tries to put its enormous snout inside our cockpit, approaching slowly Marco, who is trying to gently caress. The animal is very gentle and certainly no fear, but driven by fear that a gesture of affection, pull out the linguona bavosa that is found. Sunday meanwhile says that the armor that covers his head, which in practice is one with the horns, is so durable that if it were hit by a bullet at that point, there probably remain dry. Return to the Lodge for a hearty breakfast with rinfocillarci. Because we need to release the rooms in mid morning we decide to lose on the road now, so load your luggage and distribute the right and deserve to be tipping to the staff in that particular dell'Ingwe our formidable guide 2. The plane takes off at 19:55 so to remain there throughout the afternoon to exploit. We go without too much delay to the Kruger National Park [tel: (012) 343-1991, fax: (021) 343-0905; www.parks-sa.co.za] which, with its 19,633 sq km (just to understand The park is just over the extended Veneto!), is the largest national park in South Africa and certainly one of the best nature reserves in the world. Around 10:30 we enter dall'Orpen Gate in Central Kruger, and we strive towards the south and then exit at Crocodile Bridge. Here safaris are completely different from those made previously. It comes with its own half and then you can drive freely in the park, obviously respecting the strict rules imposed from the speed limits and the collection of their waste. Surely there are also guided tours that you can do, but we only notice large buses closed from 20-30 people that run along the streets alone bars, and even a convertible jeep similar to the one with which we run in the Bushveld. Unfortunately, through the park during the hottest hours (the worst) but impalas, zebras and giraffes are still seen. Although qualitatively this safari proved to be less than before, the trip we experienced the same so funny, because sitting with the outside edges of the windows on the car, ready to shoot anything and take some crazy photos on the move. Towards the southern part of the park, shortly before our departure, on the bridge that crosses the Sabie River we notice a car stopped and 2 people trying to photograph something. We of course also stop us hippos! Also this time they are almost completely immersed in water. Let's wait a while 'to hope to capture at least one in its entirety, or at least try to grasp at the instant his notorious yawn. After almost twenty minutes we are rewarded in part by a huge and wide open mouth that protrudes from the surface of. Leave the park at 14:30 and not lose the aircraft must maintain a good average for more than 400 km that separate us from the airport. Given the huge risk that we run, we un'andatura very strong. After the hundreds of pictures taken with the natural beauty of the place, this time, most likely, against our will, we become the subject for the authorities in Johannesburg: dazzled by a powerful flash we believe to be beccati like last souvenirs, a nice speed! ! We arrive in good time at the airport, and after raccatato all the garbage accumulated in the rear seats in well 4 bags (just to make the idea of the dunghill on which we rooting for almost 2 weeks) deliver our legendary Hyundai Elantra (which now it would be better to scrap as we pulled out and treated). 4932 marks the odometer kilometers! Unfortunately we have no air in the neighboring places, the return is quite palloso, and especially to Marco will be impossible to catch up chess 20 to 0. The airport is in Frankfurt, where we change plane to return to Venice. ARRIVEDERCI SUDAFRICA FABULOUS!