TUNISIA 2005: Oasis and Desert

Motorbike travel, just to try the emotions of the desert.

 

Last summer, during the holidays, we met two friendly bikers, Walter and Fulvio, who were traveling with their bikes, the first in China, and the second in Turkey (like us). With their tales of travel have given rise to the curiosity of groped an adventure into the wilderness to discover, as they say, "The magic of sands."
"Do not take much time, a week just to make a first experience ...." ".... we said sure, go by yourself you can not forward them to the desert, would be unconscious and too dangerous, but surely you can deal with certain traits and emotions meet new travel ... just go to Tunisia, which is not so far. "

Africa, the desert sands ... one can not remain indifferent to certain places in my imagination I have always considered to be too distant and fantastic to be real, and that since the child has fueled my dreams ... Walter and Fulvio but argued that those places were not so unattainable, indeed, all things considered, it could get fairly easily.

Since our interlocutors there seemed to be anything but the unwary, just returned from holiday (in the summer of 2004), we immediately moved to gather more information both on how to reach the desert which to understand what commitments in terms of both economic and time would be served.

Do not hide the joy when we discovered that in just 24 hours there was a ferry transported in Africa, was sufficient to reach Genoa to embark on the fly. We landed in Tunis, from there with only 500 kilometers of road you came directly to the Sahara.

We organized it all, asked for leave, booked a ferry (there are several companies engaged in trafficking-Genoa Tunis with departures in different days, so you can choose what best meets their needs), prepared the bike trip x ( with the unfailing support of my father) and with the assistance of Katja and Fabio, we have equipped with the right winter clothing.

Departure!
February 16, 2005, the ferry departs from Genoa on the afternoon at 18.00. Fortunately, no rain today, but there is also a beautiful sunny but cold weather is terrible!
During the crossing we spend our time with a nice retired from Piedmont that is going to Tunisia with his fiat type for a tour and review the people who had known the year before.
Landings in Tunis in the evening after it is almost dark.
Leave the customs are a half-adventure, mainly because of customs that corrupt, we are asking money to avoid having trouble and loss of time.
We understand immediately that a habit must be widespread, so we just pull a little 'on the price (even here is contracted) because the time is not out of the best and we want to find a hotel before dark, we cavarcela with 20 Euro (the customs chief had requested 50 ..... make much anger that want money to do their duty, but we can not denounce it because it is the head of the guards who handle the trades).
Take a few drops of rain in the stretch of motorway (the only of the whole Tunisia) linking Tunis to Hammamet, where we stop for the night.

Tatauine and Ksour
In the morning we leave at a time you Tatauine, a city famous since the point of departure for the visit to Ksour (fortified granary). We arrive in the afternoon and immediately find a hotel for the night, we are in the cities to the south of our trip.
The Ksour (singular Ksar) fortified granaries are made of many rooms (ghorfa) covered with once.
The "ghorfa" overlap each other to achieve the curtain also built 4-storey high (4 ghorfa overlapping). These curtains are closed around a central square.
Access openings of the cells are all directed towards the central courtyard, showing in this way outside a wall full .... in short this is a kind of fortress.
Unlikely masonry stairs provide access to ghorfa higher. We noticed that the branches from the roof fuoriesconoo plans higher: we serve as a coupling for drives used to raise the grain which was then deposited within OTRI great bulwarks of ghorfa floors.
I did not understand where it came from the grain, for the whole journey we have never encountered such crops for charity ... lots of palms, orchards and gardens ... but even the grain of the track .... perhaps because this was great good.
Every city and country has its own Ksar. Definitely worth a visit the most tourist (widely expressed in any guide) that in fact are the most photographed because the most beautiful.
It 'very interesting to do two steps in Ksour "non tourist". It 'very special indeed to see how some of these structures are still used today in everyday life, certainly not as granaries, but as warehouses, workshops, parts of houses.
Should go to see Ezzara, where the court of one of Ksar this has become one of the main town, is a peculiar and suggestive (although not mentioned by the guidebooks we had with us). Visit we discovered that shortly before had been used to create a photo to some girls who have participated in Miss World 2005.
The evening and return to hotel in Tatauine: Tomorrow we start for Ksar Ghilane!

Ksar Ghilane
It is an oasis (with its inevitable Ksar) placed inside of ERGOSE Eastern, that is, between the sands of the Sahara ... albeit only at its beginning.
We are excited for us is the first time you go in the desert!
We know very well that this is a tourist destination and is very easy to reach by any means (maybe with a little 'patience). We can get along the track that runs along the pipeline that crosses Tunisia from North to South, starting from the road that connects with Matmata Douz.
We instead we intend to reach Ksar Ghilane using the trail that starts just after Chenin (near Tatauine) and then get to Matmata night for using the route that I described above (in total approximately 230 km).
To reach the goal, where it is also a small lake fed by a spring, our map indicates a distance of about 120 km (from Tatauine) of which 100 of the track.
Before leaving we were well informed about supplies, gasoline is not the whole part ... and because our motina has an autonomy of about 220 km, we have to take that extra fuel system in a tank.
It starts!
The first kilometers of track are devastating! The bottom of the track is hard and is not sandy but apparently made from a series of miniature high dune 2 or 3 cm that cause an effect fastidiosissimo blender ...
For a certain point I remember someone had told me that it was necessary to find the right speed to allow the means of "glide" on dunette avoid annoying vibrations. They said that this speed can vary from half to half, depending on the weight, diameter of the tire and the size of dunette. These factors will in fact give rise to the frequency of vibrations in the long run ... that you split your back.
Faccio un po 'di test .... found!
I had told a balderdash!
Time goes much better.
After some thirty kilometers away to the barren hills and sand is all around!
Here in the desert! That emotion, the track maintains its solid bottom (and wavy).
Later pass a bar sort of place in an improvised shack and operated by Tunisian un'intraprendente that tries in every way to make us stop to consume

I realize that on some sort of "high road" of the desert, and I imagine that in times of increased tourism is furrowed by jeep carrying tourists to visit the oasis of Ksar Ghilane. Well, since we are alone, at least we know that if something were to happen there is a point of reference.
We covered about 70 km. slope when we start to have some problemucci. The wind that lasts for a few days has moved the dunes covering sections of the track, so I have to overcome those traits alone, while Jana continued on foot.
Fortunately, each stroke is long only a few tens of meters.
We slowed down in most other approximately 10 kilometers, where, after a long climb, the trail disappears completely in the sand. Try the same move (I always in motion and Jana walk) but this time it is impossible to overcome the sand is soft and very deep (the track must be under a lot of respect for the dune moved by the wind).
Let a stretch ... but the bike is charging too much and I hold up! It takes a long time to exit and return dall'impiccio with the wheels on something hard.
We evaluate the situation ... we have already come about 80 km. track and soon to begin the last stretch that our map is shown as "not always go ...."
Damn! We understand that this is not the case with groped to continue, even if it first on the track every now and recognize the sign of a recent passage of the tires, the last stretch of these signs there is no trace.
Agrees not to make the heroes, so we turn the bike and go back to Tatauine.
Since we passed the mountainous tract and the track had entered the desert we saw this as branching into more 'features that I think it was an alternative to the main track. We have always followed the track that there seemed to be the largest since the longer bar.
The fact is that the return to us a little messed up 'with these alternative routes, and we deal with waste of time and effort (and fall insabbiature various). It 'really true that the inexperience you pay!
Matmata to arrive in the afternoon along traditional routes, Ksar Ghilane remains in our minds with a tacit promise: "... so we come back the next time you travel light."
To console us (especially me) spend the night in one of the homes of Matmata troglodyte, hotel Sidi Driss, where they filmed Star Wars.

Matmata
I must admit that sleeping in the house of the young Luke Skywalker, I have raised morale.
We are the only 2 guests in the house proceeds troglodyte, the rooms (which are dug in the ground and can be reached through a tunnel stairs) are highly suggestive and, even without heating are not even too cold.
The hotelier says that since the house excavated underground, the rooms maintain a constant internal temperature, or at least respect the outside is warm in winter and cool in summer.
Indeed in the room there were about 16-17 degrees, which compared the 5-6 exterior are several ... sleep very well and without suffering too cold. For extra security the hotel places at our disposal, and several blankets, however, we have our sleeping bags.
Dinner (which is carried by the kitchens of the nearby hotel) there is served at about 18 ... 20 we're already in bed .... A little evil, the day was hard and we are devastated!
Before sleeping attendant asks me to bring the bike in the courtyard of the house by passing x troglodyte stairs ... remain somewhat 'basiti ... in our laps was there used to the fact that hoteliers often wished that you put the bike in the lobby of the hotel, but I thought that the house troglodyte was considered a good historian. However obey!
On awakening, after a good breakfast, do a walk around Matmata and we realize that a visit is very short, because the interesting part of the country (ie the area with the houses troglodytes) is very small.
So we start to Douz, at some point in the journey we pass next all'oleodotto marking the runway Ksar Ghilane x (where you would emerge due according to our programs). The walk for a short, well, out of curiosity.
More than one runway is in a motorway hard. If we had had enough gas would be left to the end, but unfortunately it is not so, and there are distributors to Douz, so after a brief detour back to the road for the city.
There is much wind today and the sand deposits sull'asfalto make them curious drawings which recall those who made the snow when it is very floury and is transported by the wind.

Douz
The city is quite large and is divided into two distinct areas: the tourist area, full of luxury hotels that is located directly across the desert, and the city itself. Are very characteristic of the market square in the old town: a huge square and large porch with access portals to the center of the four sides.
Our guide Douz describes as a sort of "playground of the Desert", in fact, we realize that because of the dunes near the city has been organized to accommodate the many tourists and offer them the opportunity to enjoy various activities on the sand: trekking on foot or by camel (many camels waiting buses of tourists for a walk in the desert), mountain bike, tandem, Quad excursions, jeep or motorbike.
There's even a track on the sand for Quad and hovercraft and even a "cammellodromo" (this is worth it, it's not nice but it is very interesting ... especially if you find someone who will tell you the races as they occur).
Let the motion to discharge a short tour of the dunes.
Indeed, the main attraction of Douz is not the city but it is the desert. Visited the city do a tour of the surroundings and come to Zafrane, but there is too much wind and cold begins to do, so let's go back to the hotel ... beautiful dunes that stretch into infinity.
Let Douz morning (we stayed in an inn that is strongly: The Mars Hotel 20, near the city center, clean and economic) in Tozeur and go, but before we do a couple of hours to stop in today because Kebili is market day!
Children, the local market is very beautiful! Perhaps as a result of the season we are the only 2 tourists, and just 'for this and a little' for motorcycle clothing, we are viewed with curiosity, they also miss a few smiles.
There's lots of people and it sells really all there is food, craft workshops (carpenters working on the way their products), clothing, sales of animals (mainly goats, horses and donkeys), sellers of old (even Used clothes and shoes), household appliances .... In short, a genuine open-air bazaar.
We continue our journey towards Tozeur, reading the guide to understand that you will get one of the most special of Tunisia: the one that crosses the Chott el gerido ".
This is a huge salt lake that extends on both sides of the road, occasionally there are possible access to the lake bottom that let you do some part of the "off track".
There are many areas but petrol stops with restaurants and shops for tourists.
The view is breathtaking ... all around the horizon is flat, the bottom of the lake is white due to the sale and because of refraction that is created you can see the mirages.

We make many stops for photos and full load despite the attempt in some off-road stretch. The bottom is flat, sandy and covered with a thin crust of salt that broke under our weight.
Just below the crust of salt (perhaps because it is still winter and the sun is still not too hot) the sand is soaked in water and is extremely soft.
Thus it is likely to remain bogged .... better stay on the road!

Tozeur
Tozeur is beautiful, take advantage of the afternoon to visit the medina (old city) to the characteristic decorations of Berber houses.
The walls take advantage of the alternation of brick to create geometric designs in bas-relief (similar to those seen in carpets).
A local guide (this time in flesh and bones, not the usual book we use) comes as President of the leaders of the medina of Tozeur and we attacked a button tremendous!
Eventually the better of us (today we are not in the vein of trading) and accompanies us throughout the tour. Fortunately, at least it is nice.
At some point we come in front of a wall decorated explains that being a special place because here you can take a good luck ritual characteristic, typical of this city.
We need to make a wish and throw a stone on the wall that is in front, where the stones are still among the decorations on the bricks will be true desire.
Some German tourists are trying ... we look at them while chatting with our guide.
I tell him that comes from in my city there is a place where people go to express desires and seek fortune, he interrupts me explain the origin of religion for any use that we were observing.
After his passing, to avoid misunderstandings, slide on a different matter .... How do I say that Milan will crush the bales of the bull "?
Leaving the medina do a tour on foot for the city and the huge palm trees.
To the west, in the tourist area, is the vantage point of Tozeur, a bedrock high fifteen meters (tantissimo whereas everything around is flat) who enclosed within a vast area that is becoming a national park (in construction at the time of our visit).
Although it is not anything special it is worth to dedicate a half hour, at least to see the tremendous rock face in imitation of Tunisian president who want to refer to the famous portraits of American presidents carved into the mountain.

The mountain oasis
We leave for good now, as usual, but this time with the bike download to visit the mountain oasis.
To get there you cross a salt lake the Chott el Gharsa ". The fund is dry and the bike does not have any baggage, so to get a good stretch in the road outside the Chott and see the effect it does. Beautiful, if you happen to you advice.
As we come to the mountain oasis of us realize that they are really fantastic.
I'm not telling how they are made and why today is uninhabited. This you can read on any tourist guide. The environments are truly stunning, however, would be a pity not to visit, especially Chebica - because of the hot source that feeds his palm - and mides (1 km. Dall'Algeria) for the enormous canyon that rises. Back to Tozeur, which is late afternoon, but before going into a hotel (the song remembers Battiato) I want to see the railway and its trains.
Now missing only one day to the departure of the ferry, so we prepare to return. We decided to travel at night to reach Kairouan, in order to visit with calm the next day before returning to Tunis for boarding.
Randomly prior to leaving the city we meet again retired from Piedmont, which had met in the ship, meet a nice and unexpected.

Kairouan
E ' "the holy city and carpets." Here lies the biggest flies, not only in Tunisia but the whole of Africa ... truly spectacular. The city is also famous for its production of carpets.
Turn feet all day and it is sufficient to see everything, leaving even some 'time for shopping.
The city is really beautiful and less touristy than I expected. In the late afternoon we leave for Tunis, we have a ferry to the 22nd

Return
The only thing strange to return to Australia was found in the snow (a lot to tell the truth) on the edge of the streets and in the surrounding fields.
In fact there was another interlude to tell.
By boat, we knew Silvanus, a boy who takes the time to accompany groups of off-road enthusiasts in the raid in the desert. He told us of several travel, putting ourselves in a small tarlo head, just as they had done Walter and Fulvio beginning of our story.
Jana talking to our next holiday in motion more and more we realize that that little tarlo has already started working, influencing our fantasies, and the country most common name among the various hypotheses for the next holiday and that of Libya. We shall see.

Perodo: February 2005
Motorcycles: Kawasaki KLR 650
Crew: Charles and Jana
e-mail: carlo.oggionni @ tiscalinet.it