Cambodia: some Arts among a tough reality.. Siem Reap and Phnom Pehn

The trip backpackers, dealt with my boyfriend, it was so beautiful as emotionally hard.

Cambodia is a country that has faced an extremely strong and difficult (eg Pol Pot) that you can read in the eyes of the people and architecture in particular.

All this contrasts sharply with the splendor of antiquity, that is Angkor, where crowds of tourists distracted crowd.

Here you can find (increase the days of diaries as) a travel diary with comments, suggestions and practical information in addition to travel costs.

Council a tour that also includes the capital city, completely different and perhaps more than all'Oasi actually created for the average visitor to Siem Reap.

 

FINALLY HOLIDAYS - Siem Reap

The flight to Cambodia from Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia), very short, it's peaceful. Landed in hot and tiny airport of Siem Reap, which serves the area archeology is Angkor Wat.
The paperwork is a little 'long. It should have three tails, but the problem is that officials do everything to run and decide to adjust. I take the forms and write them according to queue and not, as many out of the tail. Arriving in front of the officer that I have compiled them together with submitting $ 20 and photos and we move in the queue waiting to be called. The officials are the professional but in practice are only cosmetic and do not even much. During the last expectation have dissolved into laughter because they can not pronounce our names abstruse Italian .... Other customs and finally reach our suitcases. Exit, as in all airports requesting a receipt so do not miss it in the confusion of the documents.
We are approaching the taxi from our hotel with a sign with our names, but after having accompanied us asking $ 5. The price is right but we had not requested such a service ... first lesson!
As recommended by our friend and expert Teo (who to thank or curse mixed several times during the trip, poor Teo!) Arrived in our dream hotel (really nice!) Casa Angkor arranged and refreshed, we are now left chasing bikes for rent for visiting the site of Angkor, and then enter the card for three consecutive days. The sun beats strong on the dusty road and traffic to the two in the afternoon. The bikes are old and the ride is difficult, not because they are so so hard .... But I enjoy the traffic, now mistress of the local traffic rules in crosses with sfrecciano Lore behind me in panic for me and for himself. We arrive with no problems at the barrier (marked on maps) and pay the ticket valid for entry for three days for $ 40 each. We take a photo and short minutes we overcome the barrier.
The road is straight, and enough asphalt ombrata by vegetation. There are also several monkeys that skip over here and the tourists on each half (on foot, on bikes, on scooters, rides on, the tuk tuk on elephants). We visited the Bayon of a thousand smiling faces and the beautiful Angkor Wat where we wanted to wait for the sunset but defeated by fatigue and justified by the mist, we decided to return to the hotel. Exhausted, we returned the bikes, made light of water in a pharmacy (yes, yes, and a good price) and we spent remove shower off all the dust and fatigue, the sweat of a long day. Cotti, while undecided on what to do, trying to speak we have fallen asleep without even waking up dinner only the following morning. (The flight Milan - Rome - Kuala Lumpur has been a nightmare and we were unable to stand, I have not yet decided where to publish this part of the trip.)

WHEN THE NATURE MELTS WITH THE ARTS - Siem Reap

Beautiful, fresh, rested and hungry we were woken up early, around 6 am. Prepared to face the day we go to refresh with breakfast included in our hotel. Here, if you had bought the 30 lode! Buffet breakfast served on tables inside and outside in the garden with pergola is sensational! From the first seconds to the whole fruit is delicious, plentiful, fresh. So there eating a little rice, bacon, sweet pancakes, papaya, etc. ... what it was worth it!
Just emerged from the hotel, we began to negotiate with a tuk tuk driver for the day by setting a price of $ 10 for the big tour, I believe that the correct price was $ 6-8, but so much so, we learn along the way to trade .

The complex of temples is truly majestic and beautiful.

• The choice is usually between the circuit and the small but great, it's a shame to choose. If we had had the time would have been nice to make a day (perhaps the first in which we had only half a day) that small and the day after that big. But it went and then we agreed to do both. Because, really, to do the big circuit is passing near or close to that ... then small enough to contract to obtain a fair compromise standing firm on what you absolutely want to see.

The temples that we have liked more in those are absolute classics: the Bayon, Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, along the road from south to north are interesting Baphuon the West, the Terrace of Elephants, the Phimeanakas and the royal palace, the Terrace Lebbroso King, Tep Pranam and Preah Palilay; to the east, the Prasats Suor Prat, the Khleang southern Khleang northern and Preah Pithu.
These temples are the highest expression of the Khmer architecture, in a period of 300 years, between 900 and 1200, he built the national capital, moving to King in the King of few kilometers, giving life to the extraordinary concentration called Angkor. Considered masterpieces of world, the spectacular is also the place is surrounded by the forest, surrounded by lakes (more or less artificial) and cultivated land.
Angkor was included among UNESCO World Heritage of humanity. The temples of Angkor are over a thousand, some reduced to brick rubble scattered among the rice fields, many of these temples have been restored and there are also some famous through films, books and even a game for Playstation ( one of the locations of Tekken, is the place where the player faces his final opponent Heihachi Mishima).
One wonders, visitors, as never has been abandoned, the answer comes from history, an attack by other enemies of all time, namely the Thai (Thailand) made sure that the capital was moved and the site was Ankor covered by thick vegetation to be forgotten. They were, in fact the French to rediscover it in the nineteenth century and restorations (Japanese then were added and a group of UNESCO) giving this magnificent place.

? The sun is relentless, but fortunately the weather is dry but the dust and the earth if only to raise the passing of a chicken, let alone with a car or a bus. My Kenyan batik has become my "cover linus" Journal for defending but despite this he feels even the dust between the teeth. At the end of the tour I took a picture of my foot limitation on the tuk tuk that you see.
The visit to the temple is unique, some are repetitive in architecture, but each time you try different emotions and when you start to be a little 'tired you are surprised by something special. The course is a kind of ring that connects the various temples, once capital of the Khmer individual. It 'so easy to visit, especially in the tuk tuk, where there is fatigue. Moreover, for every stop there are bars and restaurants of The Spartans and children selling everything from postcards to books at all that most interest a tourist. Of course contracted, I recommend buying at least one book on art Ankgor (ranging from 8 to 10 U.S. dollars). We stopped for lunch, as Sam, our driver, had not finished eating (we have found that every time, or ate or slept), Lore took a plate of rice with meat and I adored my fresh coconut, and cold, to eat with a spoon, unfortunately found only in tropical countries.

? Returning to the temples, the magnificent Angkor Wat is considered the single largest religious monument in the world,
built in 1112 perfectly portrays the Hindu cosmology, with the central towers representing Mount Meru (home of the gods), the external walls which are the mountains that enclose the world, and the moat representing the ocean over the mountains.
Next is the construction of Angkor Thom, for instance where they filmed the movie Tomb Raider in 2001, coinciding with the change dall'Induismo to Buddhism and built after the Cham sack of 1177, the cousins and bitter enemies to find that Vietnamese Nha Trang
? Beautiful and evocative is Angkor Thom (XII century), Bayon style, and built in brick with the face-towers which dominate every entrance to the city. The building had to be big, you visit maze of rooms where putting corridors, getting lost and take the road marked by bridges that were built to protect the more delicate structures. The trees, left to grow as a part of the structure are astonishing. They are gigantic, and, putting on between the embrace of their larger and stronger roots and walls carved you feel small children. She looks up and not be able to see if the magic of this suggestive place could exist without the power and the arrogance of nature. It 'surely the most exciting place around the archaeological site of Angkor.
Try to avoid the groups that organized as the swarms arrive, take all steps to prevent the viewing and the ability to take pictures but with the same vehemence soon leave the ruins. Dedicategli, more time, along with the Bayon is the most significant place to visit.

At the end of the visit, now we realize afternoon to be red, because covered by fine red earth and the sun so strong that our skin style mozzarella is not prepared, despite the protective gear.
Shower we dive into the cool pool, only in water, while some English-speaking world, the deck chair, protected by umbrellas, continued to law books impassive despite the chaotic life of Cambodia over the wall.
Relaxed, refreshed and fragrant we left for a trip to "center", to search for an internet point, tickets to Phnom Pehn, a bit of shopping and dining. We inform you at our hotel on the cost of speedy boat and bus to the capital and we are fired crazy prices for the first $ 35 while the second $ 15. Another way of transit, is very striking railway Battambang - Phnom Penh because the tracks are more often exploited by the so-called Bamboo Train to be a lot rismonta and to give priority. This tour entails, but at least a couple of days that we have not.

The city seems a dusty construction site: the sidewalks done in construction, new buildings by western architectures grow among the old houses. Every 100 meters there are agencies offering package tours and tickets to reach the capital. Result, just at the bottom of our street we buy the ticket for the bus, departure 8:00, arrival 13:00 Estimated price: $ 4 a head!
Satisfaction of continuing the trip by entering in our first market, where, of course, we can do "rub" immediately. We have, in fact, after lengthy negotiations, buy bags of silk which are very nice, down to half the price of departure. Be aware, though, that does not agree to buy anything to Siam Reap, because you will find the exact same things in both the capital has been in Saigon at much lower prices!
The market is a classic covered bazaar with many stores in which it is easy to find souvenirs, even if at the beginning of a journey there is a tendency to postpone.
The center consists of two parallel streets all restaurants, pubs etc.. which could well compete with our local. As soon as we turned a bit by reading the menu and prices very exposed on the road in front of their tables. I would advise you to always consult them before you sit down and order to avoid unpleasant surprises. The first day I was given the choice of the restaurant where we tasted the Cambodian specialty highly appreciated by me but which I could not identify the ingredients ... the prices are higher than the rest of Cambodia and Vietnam. Us for dinner, we spent $ 3.50 a head (beer + Amak Khmer soup with noodles), consider that during the rest of the journey we spent on average a head per meal 1 to $ 3 at most!
The environment is relaxed, almost all visitors are independent, with their Tiger, rather than the Anchor (beers to try!) Exchange impressions. The lights, the music and the informal summer clothing, the heat helps to give the impression of being at sea, we will follow this feeling for almost the entire trip.
Strangely for the country we have not met the classic tour, especially Japanese implacable that raged inside the archaeological site.

OUTDOOR TRIP – Siem Reap

The next day, having replicated the fantastic breakfast, as the agreements with Sam, our driver, we went to the river of the 1000 linga and beautiful Barney Srei for a total of 15 usd (which will then add 30 usd because other travel if you are able try to keep prices lower because they take advantage)

The two sites are fairly close to each other and it is worth visiting both included in the ticket Angkor. The road is paved while the powder is always in the air.
Arrived in the parking lot of the 1000 linga along a stretch on foot in a path into the forest with some rock, I recommend hiking shoes. The trees are beautiful with their large aerial roots forming strange designs in the air. It goes into a bunch of huge rocks, climb a staircase of luck and come in a basin with a waterfall that forms a pond filled with multicolored butterflies in eternal motion, it seems an eden. Besides starting the path used for ceremonies in which the rocks of the riverbed were carved representing the linga (hence the name), phallic symbol, and various other deities. The visit is not long and worth it to get to the bottom of the trail. Moving with the tuk tuk, having waited until Sam finished eating, we arrive at the temple of Barney Srei. Bellissimo! Initially one is puzzled by the color of dark brown rocks but the beauty and refinement of architecture and sculpture of stone leaves you breathless. It is also called the Temple of women for the accuracy and sensitivity of the bas-reliefs.
Then we stopped to eat in a restaurant opposite the site where we have estimated to add a trip to the floating village.
The road that leads to board is very characteristic: it passes neighborhoods dedicated to specific work while buildings are becoming increasingly rade and increasingly poor. While in Siem Reap are the buildings of cement and various plans are gradually coming to houses of wood and straw, and then only flooded fields and water buffalo with curious restaurants with terraces filled with hammocks lined up for customers. Also along the road, beside which flow channels, in addition to the fish you will see snakes also drawn to the sun to dry, stand out for their beautiful red color so photogenic.

After the tour, more and more dusty until we are immersed in the pool of our hotel. E 'stato rejuvenating, relaxing ... in short a blessing, then ready to go out to dinner downtown. Only this time we were good and we also paid much more. We have lost some 'time around the various rooms and alleys to enjoy the last hours of the city.

WITH A BUS, GOING TO THE CAPITAL

After check-out and hailed the fragrant hotel we walk to bus stop. As we learn, we are collected by a mini-van so overcrowded stand clinging to the piles of suitcases, bus and taken to the final where "sorting" the tourists and bags for various uses in a clear and fast. Despite this we start with a delay of at least 30 minutes because we have waited for a passenger, a boy of the place that has taken a well scappellotto procured for the delay.
The trip runs smoothly and the stops are well calculated. We arrive in Phnom Pehn with an hour maximum delay expected.
The bus stops at the Capitol Tour, a few meters beyond the agency. Immediately we are surrounded by drivers of motorcycles and tuk tuk trying to attract clients, men in uniform (police or private guards or vigilant not understand) trying to keep a minimum at bay. E 'un caos. We grasp our backpacks and we move into the hotel lobby waiting for the road is open and that the driver is calmino a bit. The bus departs and we head calmly to the Capitol Tour Office is actually a meeting point for travelers, is a bar restaurant agency internet point, etc.. E 'a place of another era, a large room that knows the station, with people on the move with the bags then a voices in all languages in short, a small but relaxed Babylon with the fresh air, bursting from the fan, regenerator by touch. We should have purchased the trip on the Mekong Delta but we want to go first and then return quietly to see what other tour can offer.

We head to foot to the hotel booked by e-mail, under a hot sun with hot asphalt and now we see the closed nature and a little 'sad the people of this city as tormented and violated.
The hotel is (mannaggia Teo!) Piccolino, clean and essential. Our room on the fourth floor, is a wooden construction "unfair" on a terrace. The bathroom seems to be built for a child who is amused to enter and exit pipes from the walls, making the water stop on the floor. One strong point is a private balcony which allowed us to repeatedly stretch the laundry in a few hours drying.

Taken back to the Capitol Tour, where she speaks of booking a fantastic opportunity and French. Verify inviatomi tour via e-mail from the Sinh Cafe in the Mekong delta and decide to buy the tickets directly (details below). We look also to tour the Killing Field, prices, availability etc and as offered by the agency.
We reserve to visit the Killing Field in 14:00 the following day.

We can then relax and dedicate ourselves to finally visit this lively city.
In 1440 Phnom Penh became the new capital when Angkor and, despite the more defensible position was razed to the ground by the Thai and in 1863 was conquered by the French. In 1975 the Khmer Rouge led by Pol Pot moved with weapons all the people in labor camps in the countryside. . Phnom Penh became a ghost town. Only with the defeat of the Khmer Rouge by the Vietnamese people returned to town without the possibility to claim their homes. There was the rush to employment "abuse" of the buildings in which they settle as many families with the strength defending his new job. All those, who failed to win a house moved to the margins by building a shantytown of wood and cardboard. Unfortunately, many were and is still partially visible. Phnom Penh, then, that was known as the "Pearl of Asia" during the French domination today there seems now a city characterized by an architecture call "random." The trace of the past is clear and legible throughout the city: the buildings because buildings are poorly preserved French and adapted for a purpose far greater than that of households, by applying the traditional idea of a house, in addition to plans abusivi apparently constructed without any engineering consultation ending on the last floor of brick buildings with more style wooden huts of the villages in the countryside. The result is a mishmash of buildings, colors, threads and humanity that makes it difficult to associate it "Pearl of Asia".
Major tourist attractions in Phnom Penh are the Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda, National Museum, the school - Museum Tuol Sleng S-21 Genocide of the Wat Phnom and the Russian Market. Slightly outside the city there is the Choeung Ek Killing Field ie, death camps.
? We do carry a tuk tuk to the School - Museum Toul Sleng S-21, passing the place where thousands of victims of "Angkor" as it was called the party. The visit, in theory, very fast, is so exciting that we were in different classrooms for several hours. (fee $ 2.00).
The communist regime of Pol Pot was one of the most ruthless dictators in world history. Thousands of people simply because they were educated killed. Mines that Pol Pot praised as "perfect soldiers" were widely distributed throughout the territory and even today in non-tourist areas are the cause of suffering. The number of deaths caused by communist ideological madness of Pol Pot is contended by the political world and is estimated to be 1.8 to 3 million victims between 1975 and 1979. Within the prison are still visible traces of torture, chains and beds with stains of blood on the walls to witness the atrocities. In other classrooms have been exhibited in the showcases photographs taken by the jailers that, cataloged and photographed all the prisoners who shortly afterwards, were brutally tortured and killed. In the room there are some tools and drawings made by one of the survivors (I think 5) as an explanation of the atrocities perpetrated during the regime.
It 'hard not to move me looking at photos of Visini of children beaten and thinking about what there will be little happened.
? With heavy hearts we leave from prison and decide to take a walk up to the Russian market, including more gradually immerse ourselves in confusion. Unfortunately we arrived which is almost closed, but sin rifaremo us the next day. This is a great place to make purchases.
Lore, who does not love the market as a concept, to continue towards the hotel on foot, initially accepted because it is an excellent opportunity to cross and see the city. Are about 18.00 and the sun begins to fall. We see the old French villas, new and modern buildings, backed to a channel of the buildings where they live laundries many people (a cross between a camp of huts and a huge factory).
Arrancar to "home" we have stumbled on an open market where we dined with steamed ravioli and fresh fruit.
After more than 10 kilometers in a single bath and shower be after we went on the terrace of the hotel and, with geghini just born on the walls, the chaos below us and a starry sky that seemed to touch we exchanged impressions of day.

VISIT TO THE MONUMENTS AND A MINUTE OF SILENCE

The day includes a visit of all the main monuments, and in the afternoon to visit the killing field.
The sun shines, the air is clear and we rested all the condition for a good visit. Leave a good time to go and see • LONG RIVER, and a bridge, but historically important, more than traipsing down to nothing. There are important bridges in Phnom Pehn, if you read it differently because lie! The bridge is a simple "car deck" nothing of that. It 'been interesting, however, go along the river where we saw the beginning of the day of fishing vessels and river trade.
The second stage is dedicated to • NATIONAL MUSEUM (3.00 USD) housed in a beautiful color painting of brick, with a garden which is incredibly relaxing. It 'amazing how the chaos of traffic able to stay away, it seems, in fact, to come to a place outside the city where silence reigns, cleaning and air is scented by jasmine, lotus ed'incenso. The caskets, some interesting some other 'too repetitive, are not the only reason to visit this little paradise.
We refreshed, by foot, given the small distances and after a few hundred <> And many <> • arrive at the entrance to the ROYAL PALACE.
The entrance is magnificent: the long deleted hiding place carved with precision where even a blade of grass is out of place. The impact is enormous, the city with his humanity stride with the perfection of this place el'artificio royal. The sun beats ever stronger in order to enter but you must wear appropriate clothing and are very rigid so that, over my magliettina adapted to 30 degrees because I cover with a long sleeve, without being able to wear just about batik shoulders. When you enter the gates you pay the ticket. Whereas before the entrance to the building was free and paid only for the silver pagoda, now the ticket is unique. (3.00 USD).
The Palace is exactly how it should be, in the cobalt blue sky yellow gold roofs seem designed with all the different levels and decorations. The lawn, perfectly blended with sculptured plants give the impression of immobility, seems to be in a beautiful plastic. Only the visit of the interiors of these buildings makes real interspersed by green. You visit the throne room, the real museum, the library up to the famous • SILVER PAGODA. In reality, the silver of the floor was covered by carpet to protect it, is interesting, however, the context and the various objects that are stored inside.
And 'now noon, and finish the tour we head to the Capitol Tour The perceived temperature is really high and Boccheggiano, luck and the Capitol are the fans that cool water bursting ... pay the tour which would have left shortly afterwards and advantage to have lunch. After talking with a Canadian, married to a Japanese, who now lives around the world, comes the hour of departure.
We rely on a mini bus the driver, who in fact his, and gentle girl who will be our guide. The group is small and, after crossing roads unusable, beds of rivers and roads in the process of remaking reach the parking site. A tip: Do not andateci in tuk tuk because the road is very long and uncomfortable.
The entrance to the site is charged extra (2.00 USD). It impacts immediately with the monument erected to commemorate all the fallen still buried in the death camps. It 'really touching the visit and, despite the fields you can not see anything, what you imagine is so strong to move. The atrocities too brutal to be included. The rational mind would reject such a eye ... with transparencies that reaches the end of the visit. The guide, think about a girl from 30anni features and gentle ways have the trembling voice to the emotion and not hardly cries.
E 'advice that a visit to the great human and emotional impact and not to forget what human beings can degenerate into violence does not exist in the animal world.
Advise, however, the visit to families with children, too strong and difficult to explain.

The return is silent. All'incenso I think back on for thousands of people buried after atrocious violence to which I walked. I recall the story of the little Peuw ... (see review http://www.ciao.it/Il_racconto_di_Peuw_bambina_cambogiana_Szymusiak__Opinione_755250)

Return to the agency about 16:30 and, given the experience of the day before we decide to take a tuk tuk to get there in time to market. Contract to accompany us, respects us, and we carry to the hotel.

The market is very interesting and buy T-shirts, silk ties, stamps, etc.. E 'covered and symmetrical: we can recognize, in the confusion the meeting place is not easy!
In the evening, with heads and hearts too full for dinner intense day in the good restaurant next door.

THE BORDER

We stand up slowly and, after closing the backpacks and be "rolled" down with them from the fourth floor waiting, as agreed with the Agency Capitol Tour, the mini bus that will take us to the border with Vietnam.
Of all the options we chose to cross the border by river, a little 'for a little romance' for the charm of adventure, a little 'because hardly logical. Indeed, it is a sacrilege not to see the delta of the Mekong and Saigon get up and then back he wanted to say a waste of days, the only really poor resource for us.
The tour booked by e-mail from home, perfectly useless because you choose directly to an agency, I have the cost of 35 USD per head and includes a trip for 3 days, guide fee, bus, boat, two nights in hotel in double room with air conditioning and breakfast.
The price is good and the program, already at home compared with what is offered by other tour is interesting.
In practice they are all very similar and, unfortunately, does not matter that much what is written on the program because the visits inevitably undergo changes as the path soon learn, in all the tour purchased.

The tour is summarized as follows:

? Day 1: Phnom Penh - Chau Doc
Pick up the mini bus to the hotel and transfer (to Neak Luong) boat to the border of Vietnam. Stop for lunch and customs procedures, foreign boat, arriving in Chau Doc, check in at hotel.

? Day 2: Chau Doc to Can Tho (VIETNAM)
Pick up at hotel and transfer to the boat for the excursion by pirogue around houseboats with a visit to Cham village to a mosque, etc. to the rearing of fish.
Back to the pier, and buses should have Sam climb the mountain (from which we see to the border cambodian), skipped for "military reasons", visit the temples of Lady Chua Xu and another in place of Sam mountain . Visit a store incense and rearing of crocodiles. Check-in hotel in Can Tho.

? Day 3: Can Tho to Saigon (VIETNAM)
Pick up at hotel and transfer to the pier where boats visit with ail floating market. Visiting a "factory" where the rice is processed at a cultivation of fruit taste (do not be fooled into anything papaya and mango). Return to the pier and continue by bus to Saigon with stop at the covered market Vinh Longe and, in theory stop the bonsai garden in My Tho (not done).

The description of the journey continues, and then from the story's travel VIETNAM