Travel to the ancient China: Zhongdian… two steps away from Tibet
From the center of Lijiang, about 12, I take a shuttle bus that brings me to the bus station, I'll take a couple of hours later the bus to Zhongdian, a town north at about 200 km.
After eating a plate of rice in one of the many restaurants near the station, leaving for the city.
Zhongdian, also known as Shangri-La by foreigners, is a city that certainly deserves a visit, although it has become a major tourist destination known retains the simplicity of a good Chinese citizen. The most fascinating aspect of this city is that you can enjoy anywhere and recognize the Tibetan culture, a fortune for those who can not or do not feel able to reach the most inaccessible region of Tibet. (Photo 1)
Arrival in the city after 3 hours of travel, the new part is presented to me as a great center of Chinese crossed by a large, noisy boulevards lined with modern buildings, I observe people, their traits are determined, her cheeks red from the cold, some wearing a white headdress, a witness to the presence of a small Chinese Muslim community and confirmed by the many butchers who meet on the street whose signs are clearly marked. (Photo 2)
At the center of the main square is the statue of a horseman galloping around alternating colorless large buildings and crumbling shops of various kinds, really uninviting. (Photo 3)
I do lead by a taxi driver in the old town, situated in the area peripheral to the new heart of the center.
When I first arrived I remain impressed by the silence and the rocky streets completely deserted, but also by the numerous structures that are available to us foreigners. (Photo 4)
East and is trying to walk up and down a winding streets of stone, everything seems to be deliberately clean and polished, there are local craft shops, old wooden houses and cafes, many of which closed for the off-season.
I try and meet the gaze homes supported by a wall of earth, dried and painted with white lime, the clear structure of wood is essential, no frills, according to Tibetan tradition.
I walk in without knowing what is the city's main square, the Chinese flag flying high above the wooden buildings in the center is located a few stalls where they sell kebabs of meat and vegetables. (Photo 5)
I stop in one of numerous hotels, dine in a restaurant and quickly back to the next day to visit the city's more accurate.
The daylight allows me to appreciate more Zhongdian, encased in green highlands, walking the first meeting stupa, resting on a cube of bricks, the white bars are linked and part of the thin strings that are fixed small colored flags green, red, yellow and blue are the mantras, Buddhist prayers. (Photo 6)
Continue until you come to a temple situated on a summit, the view from here allows me to better see the whole city, the mountains are dusted with snow and the cold is bitter. (Photo 7)
I leave the old town and walking on the sidewalks that line the broad avenues, I take the bus to the Tibetan monastery of Songzanlin, a religious complex that dates back 300 years ago and houses several hundred monks.
The landscape that I meet as I move away from the center changes its appearance, the mountains become more impressive, the simple houses, new stretches of cultivated fields fill the landscape and seeing the first herds of yaks.
Arrival at the monastery and were astonished by its grandeur.
Before entering a group of young women selling trinkets from a few money, start to climb towards the monastery, surrounded by abandoned and dilapidated houses that give the entire landscape a unique atmosphere. I see the purple spots first move, are the monks, silent and shy, with their shaved heads and sandals worn see them everywhere, in prayer, sit reading sacred texts, to perform menial tasks. (Photo 8)
The silence is everywhere, the monastery is built on 20 meters, is white and finished with bright colors, surrounded by several buildings, the roof comes with gilded statues gleaming in the sun. (Photo 9)
The prayer room is large and surrounded by the sweet smoke of incense sticks, yak butter, fruit and money are the deals I see more applicants.
When I stand on the roof of the temple enjoy a unique view, 3200 meters, a height that allows me to see the eye fields, mountains, lush trees, flocks of sheep and goats, big yak grazing quietly, the valley seems endless and the sense of peace that reigns here is unique. (Photo 10)
Now I understand why this monastery is one of the most important in southern China, is majestic, beautiful, witness to a difficult history, having crossed the sad vicissitudes related to the Cultural Revolution, almost abandoned to himself, bombed, a few years is resurgent from its own ashes ... a story lived everywhere in Tibet and China in nell'interra of Red Guards, years in which, without any respect for religions and cultures, has made havoc of monasteries, shrines and everything that symbolizes' ancient history of the nation.
In the evening return to the city square in the heart of old Zhongdien awaits me an unexpected but welcome sight, the locals dance the popular music fills the air from an old megaphone, men and women girono on yourself twirling the wrists and hands, many are moving into safe light steps and smile warming so cold the night now dropped.
Watch the dance on the sidelines, fascinated by this ritual will discover repeated every evening.
Simona Salini
Interesting news:
* From Lijiang every day go to Zhongdian two buses, one at 8.40 and one at 14:30 and the trip takes three hours and the fare is 45 y;
* Near the bus station in Lijiang, there are many restaurants where you can taste excellent rice with meat and vegetables for a few yuàn before leaving for Zhongdian;
* To visit the Tibetan monastery of Songzanlin need to take the bus 3 that often passes from Changzheng Lu; entry costs 10 y;
* For a great place to eat is Hellen's Pizza in Tuanjie Lu, the owners are a nice Italian, Marco, and his fiancee, a very nice Chinese girl and an excellent cook, Mark has lived in the city and can give very important information about places to visit, the meat is very good with walnuts and homemade biscuits are delicious;
* As for accommodation, if you decide to stay in the old town a good solution may be the Old Town Bright Hotel, in Bei Men Street 22, with 80 y offers clean, right in the center, keep in mind however that in this area of the city almost all hotels do not have air conditioning is always hot and very cold;
* If you want to stay overnight in the new town was a great hotel is the Shangri-La Hotel, in Changzheng Road, has spacious rooms, air conditioning warm, clean, but do not spend less than 200y per night;