A trip in Kerala, God's land.

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Kerala, God's own country-"the land of God": a short holiday "wellness", the sea, with ayurvedic massage

November 2004

Before landing at Trivandrum, the pilot announced 34 degrees, and when night falls, still dressed from Dharamsala 1350 m, it seems to me to enter into an oven. But I am already too busy watching the palm trees surrounding the airport and to feel the smell of salt. The hotel is not far from the airport, a modern hotel and beautiful. My room is 50 m from the sea and the room, overlooking a verandina covered by a beautiful colonial-style porch, and the lawns of the large park surrounding the complex are held in a surprisingly ordered to be in India. I sit on the porch and listening to the sound of huge waves of the ocean. I am 26 years that I miss from Kovalam.
My holiday is very simple: breakfast, beach, a couple of hours a day dedicated to ayurvedic massages, dinner with rum finish.
The massages have been booked at an Ayurvedic resort owned by Dr. Franklin, probably a Christian.
The day after my arrival has a transport service in the car available in the clinic. I am in a beautiful environment. Extremely clean, functional, and with so many plants and greenery all around. The practice wants to know that Dr. Franklin, in his study but little cared for in every detail. Presentations!
My booking requires a week of "Panchakarma". After the usual tour and explanation of what is ayurvedic medicine, ask the doctor what this "Panchakarma". I explained that it is a cure for purification based on herbs, enemas and other treatments with the aim of purifying the whole body.
Reservations ... The note and he tells me that perhaps it is better to do a week of rejuvenation. I like this.
I entrusted in the hands of a young masseur, very prepared and very kind, invites me to undress. I remain in panties. "Even those," he says, and note my reluctance; obeys. Makes me sit on a stool and begins to ungermi hair with coconut oil, then massaging the arms and back. Makes me lie down on a bed, and cleaning of the known ... strange in India! While I am massaging the back of the body on the right I see a rope hanging from a ceiling beam. I look at this string and the mattress under it and begin to think of the name Franklin and torture of various kinds. Once the rear wheel Gigi me and starts with the other part of the body, now and unto bisunto are, and remain in this state for the entire week. Gigi ends with a massage to the face and ears.
I am down and beckoned me to lie down on the mattress under the rope, silently obeys.
I am lying on my stomach and he attaches to the rope, which has several nodes at different distances, and after having asked if the pressure of the foot is good to massage begins. It is fast and light, so skillful that it seems to me is massaging with your hands.
The first part of the treatment, which will be repeated for seven days, is over. Is all coconut oil. I put him camicione a green and clean and makes me go into the room delivery to two lovely and friendly ladies.
Also this room is clean as the first. On the one hand there is a magnificent old wooden table and above it an earthenware container with a spout from which the oil gocciolerà lukewarm. The massage is called "Dhara", is magnificent. One of the ladies turn off the light and speaks with his sub-links, then apply a sort of bandage on the bottom of the front so as not to drip oil on her face and begins to gently rock the container, from a temple to another, making him get over his forehead. Dhara massage lasts 20 minutes.
In the days following the massage Gigi stays the same but changes the second session.
Today I have the "Pizhichil". Kindly passed from the hands of Gigi in those two ladies, they also tell me that I have to stay naked. I am embarrassed! They make me lie down on the table and I usually pay them liters of warm coconut oil. Massage the whole body, take away the oil and pay the other. Are on the table, totally anointed and girarmi becomes a major undertaking. Slide down but the ladies quickly grab me, I try to girarmi but I can not make a move and if it were not for the help of the ladies I am on the ground.
The next day it was the turn of the "Gnavarakizhi". I am still lying on the bed of wood and old ladies with me are a kind of cloth bundles containing boiled rice and a mixture of herbs, all warm. Arrange one part of the body and the other two ladies palpettano me from head to foot with this poultice, and just raffreddatosi the first, a third girl is ready to spend another two bassoons lukewarm.
At the end of this treatment as well as the "Pizhichil, clean the body with palm leaves by removing everything that was superfluous.
Last day. Today is the turn of a mask on her face and body. The face is sprinkled with a poultice of banana, papaya and other herbs, the body with clay and powdered sandalwood. I will leave them for 20 minutes and then it's time the sauna. I am in a room with a cube large enough to contain a body. The side walls are of glass, inside is a stool swivel to adjust the height so that the head can go out and be held firmly between two tables. Place of hot steam and inquire if the temperature is pleasant, and I leave to sweat for 20 minutes.
Finished!
Before leaving the meeting of new dot. Franklin inform you that as the week went. To explain that I come from an India where there is hardly much cleaning and organization, which has left me pleasantly surprised, as I am also pleasantly surprised by the perfect organization and technical preparation, the courtesy and the discretion of staff. Leads me to visit the bungalow of his heart, even these exceptionally clean, beautiful gardens around, but something is missing ... the beach. Franklin, old Volpone, understand me and tells me that the beach is only 5 minutes and that a machine of clinical leads when you want and you are taking when you want!
Pass the afternoon on the beach reserved for tourists. Not for an attitude of "neo-colonialism", but the Indians have the habit of using the beach as a toilet and then to prevent unwanted trip in deposits, it takes the private beaches. Mine is run by Khan. Rent chairs and umbrella for 200 rupees a day and brings you everything you want to drink or eat. The sea does not allow to swim the ocean always seems angry and Mounting like walls of water tip is continuously on the beach, does not stay that diving play and making drag on bagnasciuga. I remember one of the first images of the beach of Kovalam: 26 years ago, 5 people drowned corpses of little caution to lay on the beach.
On a hill aridosso the beach there are two restaurants very simple and beautiful: the Lobster and Saljemini. They are clean, with small tables covered with tablecloths in white and red, and at night are lit by candles in glass containers for repair by the wind. Pass them every night, eating prawns and crawfish, drinking beer and rum, and watch Mounting.
Me ne vado relaxed and happy and still watch the plane down, seeing the clean sea, the expanse of coconut, recalling the kindness of the people of the south there is in me the idea of coming to live in this paradise.