A walk among tibetan villages and monasteries

 

The start

The world is like a book, who does not travel only reads a page.
St. Augustine

I was already in those places in 1999. Be returned after six years I have been to understand how our "civilization" Western is coming even in those remote places. All the villages were accessible only on foot, even the most remote, are now served by a dirt road, on the roofs of the houses, next to the dung of animals put to dry in order to make fuel for the winter, rising satellite dishes and solar panels in many places also got electricity. But nothing has changed the beauty and majesty of the landscapes of the valley of Spiti. Walking on these paths to more than 4000 meters of altitude nell'anima infuses a sense of spirituality to people who did not mystical predispositions. In the villages and along the paths religion is a constant presence, the reference to the divine is everywhere. I remember the banners carried by the prayers to the wind built on all the hills and mountains, the banners of the monasteries, the chorten, votive engraved stones that are located near the villages, the countless monks who meet during the journey and the sacredness of the mountains. The path in the clear light of 4000 meters is also a pilgrimage to the shrine of the ancient faith of the world: the Buddhist.
The Spiti Valley, Spiti from Tibet: "Middle Country" for its location in the mountains, situated in the Indian State dell'Himachal Pradesh, bordering with Tibet is closed to tourism since 1953 because of war and tensions indo - Chinese of the time, was opened to tourism only in 1993. The area, a thousand years ago, was to be a collateral of the most famous caravan routes that united China to India, where the famous "Silk Road". For this reason the Spiti, linked at the time that Tibet is close to Ladakh, had the presence of trade and cultural significant. Now an uncomfortable road, recently built, connecting the town of Manali to Spiti Valley through the steps of Rothang (3978 m) and Kunzum (4551 m) in approximately 10 hours of hard travel by jeep.
The fate has it that the ups and the adventure begin immediately after departure. We are a large group of 24 people, and we were unable to find any place on the same flight. So while 20 reached Delhi via Amman and Rome, the other 4 go from Frankfurt and Bombay. Roma are waiting for the flight to Amman when I receive a phone call from Franca, one of 4 people flying between Frankfurt. Informs me that their flight to Bombay was canceled due to an exceptional monsoon that made it unusable as the airport in Bombay. Immediately contact Philip, my equivalent of "Adventures", which I promise to get involved immediately and resent as soon as arrived in Amman. Conclusion: The 4 start the day after arriving from Frankfurt and Delhi with 24 hours of delay. There remains that we still remain for a day in Delhi to expect. This allows us to make a visit to the capital of India, although we must look at the positive side of the story!

Visiting Delhi

Accompanied by a sultry heat, turn on the streets of this chaotic city traffic, including environmental pollution caused by discharges of the many buses and trucks, in addition to noise pollution from thousands of horn playing continuously, but what most strikes the visitor is the filth and poverty which prevail everywhere in this city, especially in the old. In all peripheral roads you can see the slums, made up mostly of tents, where the poor live.

Heading to Manali

At 9.30 the next day, punctual, landed the plane with our traveling companions 4. Unfortunate that there are in their luggage! The morning spent at the airport, on the one office to another, for practices relating to the complaint of the loss. We can not delay the start then came the confirmation that your luggage will be delivered as soon as possible, at 14 you start with a bus to Manali. To cover the 630 km that separate us from the Himalayan town use less than 17 hours, first in the chaotic traffic of Delhi, then in the plains and finally on mountain roads, often narrow and unpaved.

In Manali

After a night passed trouble nap on a bus seat, at 7 am we arrive at Arohi of Manali where we find Mr. Thakur, our local correspondent, which awaits us. After breakfast and taken the necessary arrangements for trekking fatigue has the upper hand: finalmente un po 'di-earned rest in a real bed, we just wanted a day of relaxation in Manali before the trek. To 12.30 a beat of drums breaks the silence. It is that day and in the street in front of a passing procession. The drummer was followed by a multitude of people that with effort dragging a large rope which is tied to a tree trunk square. This trunk, along more than 10 meters, is then erected vertically close to others already raised in the years ago. This is a religious event that seems to be every 10 years. Spend the afternoon visiting the town, surrounded by forests of conifers and mail to 2000 meters in the Kullu Valley.

Going to Kiato

The morning after the luggage that had to get there at 6 am. Seems to delay due to a landslide that has disrupted the road. Thakur advised us to leave anyway, will deliver them to Kiato, place of beginning of our trek, not just arrive. At 9.30, with 5 off-road, and immediately we start the road climbs toward the Rothang Pass. Unfortunate that the move will be wrapped in fog that prevents us from admiring the view. Shortly after Rothang the road becomes a dirt track and turning on the right leads to Kunzum Pass that reaches with steep hairpin bends. Unlike Rothang Pass, now a beautiful shining sun that illuminates the glaciers of the mountains that surround the pitch. Here begins the Spiti Valley and many chorten and prayer flags placed on step announce entry into the realm of faith and villages Buddhist Tibetans.
18.30 we reach the village of Kiato in which assemble near the field. At 22.30, when many of us had already withdrawn in tents for the night, you hear a ringing of clackson are missing luggage arrived. Finally we all gathered together and with the full baggage, tomorrow we can start to walk

The Trekking

On August 3, at the beginning of the trek, we make the knowledge of members of the group that will accompany us with the 32 horses: cavallanti, cooks and helpers of Nepalese and Indian nationals, in addition to our guide PUREN in all 12 people that we will have a to appreciate in the days after for their reliability and courtesy.
I will not go on describing in detail all the stages of trekking, I will say only that the hardships and difficulties faced in the nine-day journey has been largely repaid by the beauty of landscapes, from majestic snow-capped peaks that surround the steps and broad valleys that we have come from emotions, try entering the simple dwellings of the villages and the hospitality with which we have been accepted, and by sense of peace and serenity that reigns in the monasteries.
Only in the early days some members of the group experienced a slight discomfort due to the share, nothing serious at the end of the journey we were all in very good physical condition.
The first four days of hiking spend predictable, quiet walks to 4,000 meters under a hot sun, visits to villages and monasteries encountered on our journey in a spirit of friendship gogliardica. Every day, when you square the field, we are surrounded by children of the place you rush curious, attracted by the noise caused by our arrival and are happy to receive any gift, especially school supplies brought from Italy.
The morning of the fifth day of our awakening, we are in for a surprise: missing 18 of 32 horses that we had. There are even cavallanti that according to our guide went to their search. One day we were still waiting for their return that has not happened. The guide says that there is no reason to worry because the next day we started out with or without horses. Probably, according to the guide, they fled because some frightened animal, perhaps an elusive "snow leopard". The next day our luggage will be loaded onto a tractor and trailer and we can go on to the fifth stage. In the afternoon, when we now come to the next field, we see in the distance, horses and cavallanti coming. The guide confirms that we have finally been found. None of us believed in the strange history of the leopard, because if an animal had scared them the night would have heard a great racket, however nobody has noticed anything. The most likely hypothesis is that they needed the horses for two days for some transport. We have recovered the lost days by joining the last two stages into one.
There is another episode that deserves to be mentioned: the fifth stage was short, before noon we had already placed the camp in the village of Thangyud to 4470 meters. As the afternoon was a ten components of the group, including the mascot Andrea just 15 years, enjoy the thrill of more than 5000 meters. He set and an easy reach around the top of the field. On the summit marks the altimeter 5250 meters, congratulations to the group! Our guide does not know the name of the top and not even know if they had one: it was so called "Andrea's Peak."

Technical Sheet

Days after stopping the conquest and forced dell'Andrea's Peak the peaceful path continues until the end. In essence, the card of the trek can be summarized with the following table:

Date Place of departure Place of arrival path Hours Fald Notes
August 3 Kiato Ladarcha 5.30 400m
August 4 Ladarcha Kibber 4.30 250m
August 5 Kibber Rangrik 6.15 100m
August 6 Rangrik Langcha 5 750 mt
August 7 Langcha Langcha 0 0 day stopover
August 8 Langcha Thangyud 2.30 300m
August 9 Thangyud Jumbal 5.30 500m
August 10 Jumbal Lhalung 3.30 250m
August 11 Lhalung Sichling 7.45 200m

NB - The time is inclusive of stops

End of trekking

The trek is not finished but the journey. A Sichling find the jeep ahead of us to bring us back to Manali, but not directly with a journey of two days to visit the most interesting.
The first stop is the monastery of Taboo, which is twenty kilometers from Sichling dating back to 996. This monastery, surrounded by a wall, consists of 8 well-temples that we visit with the guidance of a monaco. Some people have within them very ancient frescoes while others, perhaps because it restored, have a more modern, not in harmony with the place.
We continue to reach Kaza, the capital of Spiti, a 3800 meters high, located on the left bank of the river. Very interesting is the visit to the town that, unlike the majority of villages that we saw during the trek, is reached by a paved road, full of people and has a very vibrant. Walking through its streets are attracted by the sight of a cobbler who works sitting on the pavement outside his shop. Here has not yet reached the consumer, not throwing anything, and a plastic chair has a broken leg but does not scrap it, simply replace the leg with a piece of wood. Another chair has no more and no back seat or with two axles will replace the seat backrest if they can do without. The midday sun looms over the poor workers? Do not worry, an old umbrella tied to a stick with a piece of string solves the problem by creating a 'shadow. The art of arrangiarsi that we Europeans have forgotten this is still here.
A stop with a visit to the monastery of women Pagmo and then directly placed in TACs where the last field, tomorrow we go back to Manali.

Going back to Manali

It goes back to where Kunzum Pass stop a few minutes to admire the snow-capped peaks which are seen in the distance. Almost at the end of the descent step we make a detour on a dirt road, with breathtaking cliffs and narrow hairpin bends, we arrive at the lake Chandratal in about 45 minutes. The area is one of indescribable beauty, the lake is surrounded by meadows covered with edelweiss (or should I say Himalayan stars?) And its waters reflect the mountains that surrounded it.
Last night at Arohi then at 5 am, you are returned to Delhi.

We're coming home

Other 17 hours of endless journey before arriving at 10 pm, at the Marina of Delhi. There are 2 days before returning to Italy and then the next morning at 6, leave for Agra where we plan a visit to the Taj Mahal, perhaps the most famous monument of the whole of India.
On August 18 the group is divided: while in 20 we return to Italy through Amman where to stop by one day, the other 4 calling in Frankfurt.
Let the day of a stop in Amman to make a jump on the shores of the Dead Sea, on the border with Israel. Done with the bath water in its salatissime end our trip. Tomorrow it all back home.