In the name of love for Ladakh

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For the sake of Ladakh
some tips for travelers

Ladakh consider a bit like 'my land', and I am sorry when I hear comments like this:
"But, all things considered, the Ladakh is not so special."
"All these monasteries! Given all a visa."
"The Ladakh? Okay for a few days after it becomes repetitive."
"... What I have suffered a headache."
We start by the comment: the problem of altitude. It is known that above 3500 m of altitude made itself felt, but some small measures will overcome the difficulties more easily.
First of all: the arrival. Where did you come? In Ladakh, one can go by road from Kashmir - although for now this access route is less used for security problems in Kashmir-or Manali, an approach that creates many problems, because since you already have to overcome two steps above the 5000 m, with a minimum of acclimatization.
But back to Ladakh. Most tourists arrive by air from Delhi. In this case you must take certain precautions. That one is young or older, your body has become accustomed to a bump on the sea level, practically from sea level up to 3500 m, within 1 hour of time. How?
First thing: slow down ..... slow down the movements, and not make an effort during the first day. Lets us into a hotel or guest house, let the drivers have to load and unload your luggage, and arrived at the hotel sit with a nice cup of tea or coffee. Why this is the second point: we need to drink to stimulate the kidneys. Once you do this, go to sleep.
But how, is not so far away to sleep! True! But meanwhile, are emerging from a long intercontinental flight and the flight from Delhi started early in the morning, then you still sleep a little behind. Rest a few hours, until lunch, and prendetevela quietly in the afternoon: a trip by car to the Shanti Stupa to admire the scenery, a visit by car to the monastery of Samkar, a trip of no more than an hour at feet in the center, just to look around a bit and that was it. Your first night will not be so easy ... the headaches, heart palpitations, insomnia, nausea, which may result in physical discomfort and fear are all normal symptoms. If you master, sit in bed, or go four steps to put back in motion the body, and be patient. Pass ...
Oh the first morning at breakfast, that show!
Do not despair. After a bite to eat you will feel better. Prendetevela calmly even in this second day, perhaps taking advantage to make a "scorpacciata monasteries," a first introduction into the world of this form of Buddhism that is so fanciful that Tibetan. It may be that the second night is not the most relaxing .. But know that we are always in the "normal", nothing to worry about.
After two days the time has come for tours outside Leh. In Ladakh, this means that we can go towards Lamayuru towards the Nubra Valley, or to the lakes of Changthang. For Nubra and Changthang is still too early. Have to pass over 5,000 m, and you are not yet fully acclimated. Much better to go first to Lamayuru, where in fact get off lightly compared to Leh, and reserve the Nubra to move to the next step. Nothing changes, and save more illnesses.
The second problem: monasteries, convents, monasteries ever ..... fines that one is not a true specialist in Tibetan Buddhism it is difficult to understand the differences between all the monasteries, and "them" all becomes very monotonous. You have to make a selection, and limited to highlights of each of those visited. It is not necessary to list all come from, and is not necessary to visit all the rooms of each monastery. Artistically speaking, the Ladakh is rich in paintings and frescoes. To give you some examples: the collection of thangka in the royal palace of Stok is sublime, the elk to Sumtsek comparisons did not (maybe exaggerating a bit, Taboo is not less, and Guge and even Tsaparang) to Hemis is a collection Sculpture on slate that is unique to the palace of Sheyi are wonderful frescoes, Lamayuru in addition to spectacular scenery, there is a wall that shows all stages of transition from one life to another, day after day, as described in Thodröl Bardo (Tibetan book of the dead); Thikse is a beautiful statue of Maitreya, a Ridzong the unique character of the monastery is given by its "protected" by surrounding mountains. A beautiful face is Likir tick away from the monastery and the statue (orrenda..) In the Open.
All these things are "unique" you should not miss. In addition to this you can see the structure of the monasteries, the division into different rooms, the wall paintings "typical" (for example the wheel of life, one of the clearest examples is at Hemis), but are things that are repeated in each monastery. The best thing is to have it explained once by a competent guide.
Recently several trips in Ladakh are organized on the occasion of the "ritual celebrations in monasteries." Holidays are important opportunities, allow you to see why so many people locally, and to participate in what for them is an important religious event. But, gentlemen, do not be fooled: in the summer quarter of these will be tourists ... unfortunately there is often a confrontation between tourists: some, for the sake of sacred photo, is interrupted close to the monks dancers, and someone a little patient gain against him because it fails to avoid it in his picture! Suffice it a bit of patience to meet the needs of all ....
However, the monasteries are not the only thing that offers the Ladakh, there are also its beautiful landscapes. Someone thought to altitudes where it is, is disappointed because it does not expect to see Himalayan mountains without snow and glaciers as they are, for example, in Nepal. Here the landscape is barren and desert, but the walls of the mountains have an amazing kaleidoscope of colors, from purple to red, from green to brown and gray. During the trip to this desert, suddenly seems an oasis of green, a village surrounded by cultivated fields hemmed by streams of water. Walking on foot between villages and fields we s'impregna the sweet gurgling water, gentle perfume, song of the peasants intent to harvest. How kind, the Ladakh! The passenger will remain astonished to meet a people so mild that lives in a harsh environment. The Nubra valley is spectacular, unusual because it conformed by two wide rivers with sand dunes and snow-capped mountains in the background. The region of lakes, although a bit more difficult to see why you should sleep in a tent at 4500 m, will bring an additional touch of wonder to your trip to Ladakh: here you are truly in another world, a world "rarefied", not only for the lack of oxygen but also for its sublime beauty.
Finally, what I mean is this: if calibrated well all aspects of travel, culture, religion, and nature, I guarantee you that the Ladakh do not forget anymore!

Jule .....
Kristin Blanck
1 March 2005