Up and down through Rajasthan for 21 days. India travel review

Each logbook tourist respectable part by a presentation from the sensations that the poetic and placed induced during and after the trip. In general, the emotions, colors and feelings are those that we report upon our return and are usually more exciting from the start. This time was different, this time we can say with knowledge of the facts that we visited another planet (not an exaggeration) that we lived in another era. Ladies and gentleman, we will try to describe the Rajasthan small region of India. Sorry if this long preamble is very vague but can not be otherwise .... you will understand why .....
The impact is devastating with India, thousands, millions, hundreds of animals of all species and breeds that live in the wild in cities that we can define the urban-rural. The smells, innumerable, you catch, you sick, you get sick, the colors, all those who can imagine, bright, brilliant, hot, off, on, faded. Shary and chador that blend into a morass of children and in dozens of cultures and religions who every day try to live as peacefully as possible. The India waiting globalization but trying desperately to maintain its identity. The India goes on between technology and superstition, India so different from the rest of the world .... India is India .... the hatred of "who made me do "..... But then slowly abducts you, sucks you in and return to India to have it inside and you feel so aware of having seen a unique place in the world who think ........" please God let me go ... "!!!!

 

the travel

Excited we wake up till 04.00 and after about an hour that my holy father, "Puccio Bruno" takes us to the airport of Fiumicino. Departure 07.30 (Alitalia) to Milan Malpensa. The plane is very punctual and pull (because so many strikes) a sigh of relief ..... we spoke too soon ... we are not starting, not starting? And why? Technical failure! You change the flight ... result? We lose the coincidence of the Milan-New Delhi 10.20. We land at Malpensa at 11.40 Alitalia and nobody expects us, me, Giusy and a large group of travelers do not know what to do ... Alitalia? Ahiaiaiaiai ... after a couple of hours of waiting, suddenly I hear the announcer calling my name of the airport, how exciting! It 'the first time that happens to me! Giusy who had since gone to get the backpacks had forgotten the document in a bag that I kept. I'm going to save my daughter and Alitalia (that lousy company) we move the flight the next day, sent to Novara in a 4-star fake called "The Compass". Bad food and service will be ... I think we bring a sticky rice and pizza with gorgonzola disgusting! Salad and ask me to respond that I have to pay part of ... what? But we're kidding? We bring the salad .... I try to contact via e-mail Francis Singh met via the internet, I had made an agreement with him regarding the driver and the route ... and now? We hope you read my e-mail! However, the series who is content enjoy strolling through the center of Novara (nice), we meet Lucy, a friend of Hotel Giusy and finally there is a religious feast of the Church Pentecostiana sung in Gospel, where many people of color and claps his hands and closed eyes screaming "Hallelujah" ... nice but perhaps a little too excessive ... around 23.00 we go to sleep with one hope: India!

the flight

We wake up and after breakfast we arrive at Milan-Malpensa. First good news: the plane there .... check-in is accurate ... and go with only 30 minutes late ... but it's all true? We are going in India ... on the flight to kill time we compile crosswords, eat junk badged Alitalia, I make friends with many other passengers and then ..... the first lights sprouting from the New Delhi: ore 21.50, touching earth ... India here we come! Opens the sportellone the aircraft and the heat and humidity surrounds us like a heavy blanket .... After a series of stamps and timbretti at customs airport and we go out there SINGH FRANCIS! He read the e-mail ... approaches us with his long beard and white hair, says that looks like Sandokan ... We also know Raje, the driver, seems serious and professional. A Tata Indica (car) will carry us throughout the journey. Slowly the first pictures of New Delhi flowing through the windows ... people sleeping on the floor, cows on the streets, men and women who walk and walk with no destination ... Zombies, ghosts who try to come as slowly as possible to an end that was already written for them ... We arrive at the Hotel Center Inn, located in the area of Pahar Ganj, tel: 23562770 / 2. We pay about 25 euros for a double room with bath and / c. For the zone appears to be too expensive but the hotel is still clean and has a balcony on a street in Delhi where people sleeping on the road with cows and goats next to ... another world! With the first images of India we fall asleep (very difficult) ... and is just the beginning!

New Delhi

We wake up around 08.00, we have breakfast at the nearby Metropolis Bar (recommended by Lonely Planet) but to us it seemed expensive (for a toast, croissant and coffee 2, 4 euros) and then a waiter tells me something why do not I give him a tip Lonely Planet ..... So maybe this time you were wrong! Back to the hotel and Raje (which will be formidable) ... CONTACT THEM TO THIS E-MAIL: rajeev_Singh19712000@yahoo.in) We are waiting for. SI PARTE! The first stage is the Jama Masjid (entrance 4 euros + 20 cents per photo and video), the largest mosque in India. The impact is remarkable, exhausting climb the minaret, but the view is certainly interesting. Arrive at the mosque with the help of a rickshaw ride for 1 euro in the crowd lapping holes and carts. The Red Fort is closed, we see only from outside and within 5 minutes of waiting in front of the central door, a myriad of vendors, children and other assails us trying to sell all ..... this is the main drawback of New Delhi, the lack of some elements of dignity ... We rent this time for 3 euros (even if I gave 4) another rickshaw and he pedaling and panting and we filmed we go to Chandni Chowk, the market is more baffling that we have ever seen, divided by sectors, you can find everything, spices, books, antennae, trinkets and barking, but most of the real attractions are the commodity traders, barefoot, bicycle, carts pulled by cows ... and I Giusy apostrophized one word: crazy! Decisive change image and walk toward the Tomb of Humayn (admission 5 euro + 50 cents per photo and video). This monument in small and shaped like the Taj Mahal in Agra. Me and that meanwhile Giusy crap shoot in bursts ... "pen" a few connoisseurs few words, take pictures with all his might, and perhaps maybe even get the first part .... We leave the tomb, we have a hungry crazy, but New Delhi is not even a small bar or a supermarket ... no nothing! We are fasting, drink a lot, also because the heat and humidity are unbearable. Phoned up my father and then distributed by one of the Qutb Minar (5 per entry). This is a complex Afghan daunting. Bella is the atmosphere and many are girls and women dressed in Indian saris are being photographed without asking for money. We go out and Raje ahead. Start over our tour de force at the time of the Raj Ghat, the exact place where they cremated Gandhi, let's go back to Parliament Governors, a complex of elegant buildings that suggests that politicians in India "pimps" are doing really well! Our tour will proceed to India Gate, an arch 42 meters high ... let's say that if you have little time you can finally let go .... eat ice cream and Puccia retrieves all the sugar .. not dominant, we visit the Temple Lakshiminarayan, modern , white-red and in with a sea of swastikas swastikas ...? Then you will discover that they are a sign of good luck .... We get tired, sweaty and "stinking" ... the hotel we make a well-deserved shower and then go out to eat something. Raje punctual and arrives at 19.00 with a friend, bring us to an Indian restaurant ... we go and see it was a tavern with tables ... run away and we listen to the Lonely Planet, Destination United Coffee House. The choice is true bull's eye, eat 3 courses of different chicken tandoori, the leaf of coconut and grilled, very good, 2 plates of rice, Indian beer, water and a delicious cheese sandwich. We pay 23 euros and we leave happy. Gelato-rite (2) and Raje brings us to the Bahai Temple. Unfortunately closed and turned off (tried again)! Exhausted go to the hotel, but before the India gives us a surprise, you have never seen an Indian wedding? Bhe is something unique, people dancing in the street, musicians, the future bride and groom a horse? We could not see it ... will have changed my mind! Tomorrow it's off to Wake Up 05.15 hrs Agra via Raje's house, where his family I hope we will prepare a good breakfast in India.

Agra

05.15 hours, we wake up on time. Confess to feeling excited. Maybe "commercial", it may be "touristy", but thought I will visit the Taj Mahal gives me the chills. But first, as promised Raje brings us to breakfast at his house ... the house is a big word, it is in fact a hovel where they sleep on a dirty bed in another room, two children and his wife and mother. Prepare us for the kind of pancake and crepe, coffee-milk us and we take off again after the greeting ritual. Delhi-Agra distance 220 km. Arrival time of 4 hours and a half. The Indian roads are nothing short of shocking and dangerous past you and you play by all parties, then the sudden traffic jams arise due to the crossing of cows, pigs, camels and elephants sometimes ..... in short the trip offers strain in our nerves and even then Raje hole ..... We arrive in Agra at 11.45 and take 12 euros for a double with bathroom and air conditioning at the Hotel Apollo. Say that from the standpoint of comfort is not exactly the best, but we must stay one night and then clenching his teeth. Place your luggage left for the Taj Mahal. First of all it is fair to say that Agra city is really bad, I would say its obscene. Everything is destroyed, slums on all sides, the complete disintegration. Along the path leading to the Taj Mahal (which is required to walk) we were surrounded by vendors petulant and somewhat aggressive in Agra ... ... Get ready because here you get things that you humans have never seen! The entrance to the Taj Mahal is 15 euros and takes a long row of siege the main gate. A Giusy remove cigarettes and throw them away ... after a series of drives we can get in and the spectacle unfolding before our eyes is fantastic. The white sculpture of the Taj is mixed with the blue sky and the red of the mosques that are at her sides. The Taj gives the feeling that time has stopped .... maybe just for a moment ... a short and intense stop ... We take pictures on fot (second picture) and contemplate. Too bad this wonderful harmony regalataci sinuous temple being dropped from the looks aggressive, curious and sinful Muslim boys who watch my Giusy ... but you've never seen a woman? Your fairies cover and then look at those of others? Even two people ask us to do the photos with them, obviously they have never seen the attraction of the West ... but we or the Taj Mahal? We leave this beautiful place (even if the interior disappoints a little) and we head Raje Agro Fort (admission 5 euro + 50 cents for video and photo). The fort is beautiful, with the rooms, doors, arches and columns that are followed. A maze of twisty splendor that makes us lose the way ... we remain trapped for about 20 minutes to research output until my better half calls indicating a round local girl: "... the PORPETTO exit "?? Giusy begins to laugh ... And you want to do? It 'made that way ... At about 16:45 we leave the strong and we are attacked by the usual horde of vendors, includes a series of bracelets, 2 euros and Raje brings us to the hotel for a shower ... we leave at 19.00 and go to Shikawa Restaurant, which offers specialties from Gujarat and South India. Take a chicken curry, mutton curry spicy vegetarian rice, beer, water and Indian bread, and we spend about 19 euros. In the evening we try to go see the Taj Mahal lit but unfortunately there was a short circuit and will remain in the dark all night! Pity! The appointment is for tomorrow at 9:00 .... Raje tomorrow then!

Fatehpur Sikri - Abhaneri - Jaipur

We wake up at 07.45, we managed to sleep despite the deafening noise of the fan and air conditioning. Breakfast with toast and jam, and departure at 09.00 am to Fatehpur Sikri, the beautiful city abandoned and fortified Mughal empire. The entrance to the complex of palaces and mosques is € 5.00 + 50 cents for video. In front of us opens an extraordinary spectacle, patios, columns, walls and domes of red it passes. We take lots of pictures and many tourists bother to let us do some photos together. Even here some Indian Muslim is asking us if they can make a picture with us. A boy of 14 who wants to learn Italian acts as our guide and eventually bought from his uncle for 10 euros of souvenirs. Even the mosque is beautiful and we are pleased that many Muslim girls and boys greet us. We go to Fatehpur Sikri hot, sweaty but happy and share it with Raje who surprisingly takes us into a forest full of monkeys to which we feed. We're on the road again ... and what a road! Full of holes, rocks, bumps, trucks, pigs, camels and cows ... Giusy falls asleep as usual but I do talk to our driver. We are headed to Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, but the road we stop to visit the architectural complex Abhaneri, a former real pool, complete with bathrooms and with 11 levels of stairs in a zig-zag. We pay € 1.00 to enter. Although this complex is worth a visit. Devour the road again and at 17.30 we are in Jaipur, which seems slightly better in terms of architectural development and urban other Indian citttà we visited. Giusy has the "luck" also see two huge rats that greet and book the Rajasthan Palace Hotel which also has a swimming pool (16 euros for a double with bathroom and air conditioning) rajastanmotel@yahoo.co.in
But first I must tell this story that will make you understand how the Indian people to be able to make do on everything. Looking for a hotel, come and tell us that they have a room. Accept to see it! They took us into a completely empty room without even a mobile and tell us: "In 10 minutes we bring the bed and furniture"! Superlative! Take a shower and we're ready to go .... Let's count the money and we realize that somehow we have to limit our losses, then we decide to eat at the hotel. We pay 8 euros for a chicken chili (who swear even now I think about it)! Its taste is good but the tears I shed were included in the price? Vegetarian rice, chicken curry for Giusy that is forced to give back inside because there was garlic and onion and she is allergic to his place to bring a mixture steamed vegetarian, Indian bread and 4 bottles of water. After dinner Raje takes us to visit the beautiful and enlightened Hindu temple Birla Lakshmi-Narayan Temple, gleaming white marble. The atmosphere is beautiful, many children play together and I and Giusy are very welcome ... (I know so that we become or Hindu or Buddhist)! Then we have an ice cream outlet Raje and Giusy likes to throw kisses to the kids who try to sell us something speaking in Italian. We go to visit the Temple Albert Hall, beautiful though restructuring and then tired salute Raje that is opening up very slowly and go to sleep. Good night!

Amber and Jaipur

We wake up and is diluvian ... but nothing can stop us! Departure at 08.00 am for the Amber Fort, located 11 km from Jaipur. It 'a superb example of Rajput architecture. We see it from afar and the vision is nothing short of spectacular, even for the weather helps us, not raining and the sun came out hot and blinding. The fort looks like a castle built on sand and the road to get there is amazing! We arrived with our driver Raje under the castle and there you have to take a difficult decision: to climb 20 stairs or just pay 8 euros per person and a poor tire elephant malnourished and mistreated? Giusy and I obviously opt for the stairs, but we note with sadness that most tourists chose the elephant ... what idiots! I ask forgiveness to a pachyderm whispered: "Forgive us .... fogive us ..." Forgive ... forgive us! We enter the castle (2 euros including photos and video camera). Inside is pretty bare, nothing to do with the exceptional effect of the outside ... see the rooms, all with no furniture, large courtyards and beautiful hill and slowly go out. Today our driver Raje is in great shape and takes us to see 2 other forts that are less tourists which are nearby, and to Narargah to Jarigràh (I hope you spell that) .. pay about 5 euros to enter all both. The first is worth more for its colors and painted interior. The second title offers an unforgettable view over the city of Jaipur that stretches to the horizon like wildfire. In one of these fortresses we have a minister of India who we shook hands and asks us to give him any question, we say simply that must work hard! We leave these forums and say to Raje that today with strong enough to say! He smiles and enter into Jaipur, the Pink City, because the center is completely painted this color. Here again, the contrasts, the smells and the noises are deafening, blinding and nauseating. For do not forget anything is also a warm touch you crazy ... it's 47 degrees with a humidity of 92%, sweaty but still eager to know visitamo the Jantar Mantar (admission € 1.50 including video and photos), astronomical observatory built by Jai Singh in 1728. At first glance, the place can seem monotonous, but then each building has its own specific function ... It's 13:00 o'clock and the heat it collapses, is something unheard of ... the blinding light so we can not keep my eyes open ... We enter the City Palace Complex (entrance € 5.50 including video and photos) and we remain open-mouthed, buildings, courtyards and gardens are closed and open, the doors are all stained and the place seems enchanted ... We take lots of pictures and perhaps maybe there's sometimes a little picture here ... an hour later we leave and the car was passing in front of the Hawa Mahal, Palace of Winds, now under renovation and partially covered ... shame! We head to Bazar Jaipur, but when we see the crowds of people this time ... we give up in the early afternoon because we eat 3 mango, back to the hotel and we rest. At 19:00 o'clock (Raje is a Swiss watch) We are looking for a restaurant and our driver takes us to the heart of Jaipur, at the Rainbow Restaurant. Finally eat Tandoori Chicken (very good), the specialty of the house on Rainbow Chicken (chicken, pineapple, yogurt, peanuts and oil), equally good, ginger rice, bread with mint and 2 bottles of water for 12 euro ... Until now it was the best meal in India. With the car we go again in Jaipur Bazar and would have been nice to take a walk to markets, but I can assure you that it is virtually impossible, because there is no shadow of a tourist and there are very few women. He decides to return to the hotel also because we wake up tomorrow morning. Fixed departure at 06.00, we go to Pushkar, one of the mystical cities of India.

Pushkar

Dopo una pessima nottata (il pollo Raimbow era troppo pesante), ci alziamo alle 05.00 e alle 05.50 siamo già in strada. Destinazione Pushkar. Dopo una pseudo-autostrada si prende una strada singola, piena zeppa di camion diretti a Bombay...Giusy dorme ed io ad ogni angolo prego Buddha, Dio, Krishna e altri.....le strade d'India....Arriviamo a Pushkar intorno le 08.30, per 14 euro prendiamo una stanza grandissima, con aria condizionata e bagno all'hotel Pushkar Villas Resort tel 277-2689/277-3640. Il migliore da quando siamo in India, c'è addirittura la piscina. Usciamo subito e finalmente a piedi possiamo girare liberamente senza tanti venditori che ti assalgono. Attraversiamo il mercato ed arriviamo al lago...qui il tempo sembra si sia fermato ad un paio di secoli fa....Una scalinata piena di piccioni e mucche arriva fino al lago, uno specchio d'acqua circondato da piccoli templi (ghat) bianchi e nel frattempo gruppi di fedeli si bagnano nelle sue acque sacre. Io e Giusy ci sediamo e contempliamo...siamo senza parole, uno spettacolo eccezionale. Camminiamo intorno al lago, rigorosamente a piedi nudi, cercando di evitare la cacca delle mucche e quella più piccola dei piccioni, vediamo i fedeli intenti a pregare, pochissimi sono i i turisti e questa cosa a noi non dispiace affatto. Dopo un paio d'ore torniamo nella città e ci dirigiamo all'ufficio postale a scrivere e spedire delle cartoline....mettono timbri e timbretti dovunque, anche sulle cartoline...Visitiamo il Brhama Temple, bello ed unico in tutta l'India, il Savitri Temple e cominciamo a comprare qualche regaletto...borse per le nostre sorelle...E' ora di pranzo, fa caldissimo, decidiamo allora di comprare dell'ananas e tornare in hotel...Dopo un breve riposo, intorno le 16.30 usciamo nuovamente e ci rituffiamo nel centro. Visitiamo prima il Tempio di Gurudwara e poi ci incamminiamo verso la collina che porta ad un altro Savitri Temple. Vi dico chiaramente che il sentiero che si inerpica sulla cima della collina è massacrante, e come se ciò non bastasse ci sono moltissime scale irregolari che portano in alto. Io e Giusy ansimiamo, più di qualche volta dobbiamo fermarci e a ridosso del tempio sento un piccolo mancamento, per fortuna che dopo aver bevuto un succo di mango mi rimetto in piedi. Il tempio in se stesso non è un granchè anzi è decisamente brutto, anche perchè il Dio in questione è stato addobbato con delle luci ad intermittenza quasi come fosse un flipper...Il panorama però sul lago di Pushkar e sui ghat è stupendo e ci ripaga (non totalmente) dall'enorme fatica da noi propusa...Scendiamo nuovamente in città e la fame si fa sentire. Optiamo per il Raimbow Restaurant (consigliato anche dalla Lonely Planet). Molto bella è l'atmosfera, ci si siede su degli enormi cuscini e il ristorante offre una stupenda vista sul lago. Paghiamo appena 6 euro (in due) per un piatto di spaghetti pomodoro e basilico, 2 bottiglie d'acqua, pane indiano e 3 piatti vegetariani al curry. Diciamo che il cibo non è proprio il massimo, ma comunque visto quanto abbiamo speso può anche passare. Intorno le 21.00 ci incamminiamo verso l'hotel, compriamo un paio di gelati e lentamente gustiamo le ultime immagini di questo lago sacro. E' notte e la luna risplende sullo specchio d'acqua. Cartolina da Pushkar!!!

Ajmer - Bundi

Today is a day of transition. After breakfast with fruit juice and biscuits bought the day before. We leave for Bundi, but first we stopped at where we visit the Ajmer Dargah, the biggest place of Muslim pilgrimage (free admission but an offer is mandatory, and I let Giusy 2 euros). To arrive at the Dargah is through a narrow street, with many people and markets, very few tourists, I can see only a small group, who then discover to be Germans. We enter the site and we immediately seized the colors and the singing of the place, a huge crowd of people lined up to venerate the tomb of Khwaja Muin Id-Din Chishti, Giusy and I tried to enter but the heat stifles us, and withdrawn and we continue to wander around the place, while many eyes are watching us and question us Muslims! No problem ... we are vaccinated at these looks! We leave happy and visit the Nasyan (Red) Temple (entrance with video and photo € 0.50), containing an incredible Gold Room ... Giusy befriends an Indian girl and is nice to talk with his family members, tell us are in the south and ask us many things about Italy ... we are surprised by the calmness of their movements and their eyes ... more time passes the more we approach the Buddhist religion. We are again in the street ... and that way, the worst of all those we made, holes are afraid, bicycles and cows, pigs and sudden bumps put a strain on our nervous system. Before arriving in Bundi we stopped on a bridge over a river (not the Ganges), photos of obligation and sense of wholeness ... We come to Bundi and the city lets us down a lot, the Lonely Planet tells of a place where time has stood still, the truth is that the weather here has never started ... rubbish, walls and degradation come into our eyes ... We arrive at the Hotel for 10 Euros and Honey take a double room with air conditioning , bathroom, scorpion and lizard ..... run run away from that hovel and Raje who has since returned from Kota just for us (sorry long) leads all'Ishwari Niwas, where we take one for € 16.00 nice and clean room, air conditioning and bathroom. I understand the standards for Indians but I take the difference of 6.00 euros cleaning! We rest for an hour around 17:30 and then go out again. Do we bring Raje Lake Bundi offers an extraordinary vision of the fort and the palace of Bundi. We go to markets to buy incense and a pair of slippers for my father ... we go to the lake in the area and discovering the beautiful town of Bundi. E 'duty to do a distinction: the upper part of Bundi is obscene, nasty, dirty and decaying, the party near the lake is still dirty, but it is certainly more beautiful, with its alleys, its temples and its lake . Giusy and I discover a football field with swings and games, we approach and many are the children who run after us, taking photos with them and take them with the camera while shouting "Forza Totti and Roma"! What a beautiful moment! I almost touched ..... It 'time to dine, wander a bit and finally decide for Shivam Tourist Guest House and Roof Top Restaurant e-mail: shivam_pa@yahoo.com ).... the atmosphere is very beautiful, I know a group of young Belgians and even the restaurant owners talk to us ... We pay just 6 Eruo (with tip included) for the Indian bread, a sprite, 2 bottles of water, two dishes including rice, zucchini, potatoes and coconut cakes! Exquisite .... Back at the hotel .... another day is gone, tomorrow then!

Bundi - Kota

Tonight I sleep! Giusy tells me that I snored all night .... I was too tired! The India destroys me .... we have breakfast with cookies and mango juice, bought the evening before and at 09.30 we leave the discovery of Bundi. We visit the Fort and the Palace (video input with multiple photos € 2.50). We climbed a steep gravelly hill and arrive at this beautiful palace, with frescoes of exceptional sin only for the state of neglect, crumbling walls, and bats are everywhere ... but perhaps in this way is more beautiful! We meet again the Belgian group the previous evening and we go for a pleasant chat ...... meanwhile Giusy shoot photos like anything (digital or not) and tired and overheated leave the palace-fortress of Bundi. Raje is waiting under the shade of a tree (lucky him) and we go to visit a Baori, to Ranijki, a 46 meter deep well decorated with lots of lace. Bundi is a city of Baori, has in fact more than 50. After the visit of the city to Maharaja Memorial, a beautiful temple with arch and dome, and a beautiful landscape around. Bundi salute and left for Kota, an industrial city in India that offers tourists tell us little, but that is home to some of our family driver Raje, how to say no? Today it is very happy and we also got T-shirts and shorts ... Italian Enroute Bundi-Kota we stop in a stretch of the river Chambao, where a group of women washing clothes and children dive scenes .... for us are of another world, but just for us! Arrivamo in Kota Raje and for inviting us to dinner this evening at home with his family ... there is a hit, but how can you say no? Phul Plaza Hotel will book a room with air conditioning and a bathroom for 15 euros ... I take the elevator stops ..... feeling ugly, claustrophobic and I can assure you that remain closed in complete darkness in a small, cramped and smelly elevator Indian is something scary, scream, scream but nobody hears me ..... minutes pass and finally Giusy hear my screams, call someone who can open the door ..... survived this! Back in the room, shower and deserved rest. Raje presents with the family, we leave at 16.00 and start to discover Kota and I must say that this city is a pleasant surprise. Painted by all as bad visited before the strong and the Palace (admission € 3.50 with videos and pictures) that despite the closing time (16.30) is reopened just for us. The rooms are very beautiful with magnificent frescoes, including the museum with its weapons, photos, and various tools used by the Maharaja (curious washing machine) is very interesting. We go out and continue our tour to Kota, Raje and his family take us into a forbidden zone, near a river where we enjoy a lot of feeding fish and then find, in the truest sense, a temple in the middle of a small park should be another memorial to the Maharaja. The temple is beautiful, a series of domes and columns in the middle of the green, statues of elephants are placed at the entrance of the various arcs. Giusy and I were surprised by this beauty, partly because even the Lonely Planet Mentu this show. Take lots of pictures and around 18.00 after eating a papaya back to the hotel. This evening we go to dinner Raje ... At 19.30 o'clock we go down and go home by the uncle of Raje. The house is very small but cozy. We all have family members with the warm embrace, then I go out with Raje on a motorcycle and bought a bottle of whiskey they drink like wine ... Giusy instead is dressed with Shari and is wonderful! Meanwhile, many people come from other houses, there are many smiling faces and so many are the hands that hold ... We eat a strict vegetarian, so simple and tasty and uncle Raje finally moved and almost touches the head repeatedly as Giusy sign of luck! We invite you to breakfast with them the next morning, I try not to accept and are offended ... How to say no? Return to the hotel smiling and almost shocked, there was a reception like that ever happened ..... Is this the spirit of India? Before falling asleep we make a toast of Enterogermina ... how many bacteria would ingested tonight? Better not to think about ....

Chittorgarh - Udaipur

We wake up around 06:00, I go down and bought two mango juices. Raje is as always and spike to 07.00 we start again towards the house of his family who prepared hot tea and toast with butter. Greetings to all and this time we are also aware that this will be a farewell greeting cards .... life! We are headed in Chittorgarh, where there is a most imposing forts of India. But first we Raje made a surprise stop at a temple, completely hidden in the forest, dedicated to Shiva. The temple is beautiful, built of brick-red rose, made up of pagodas, arches, and several small statues, integrates seamlessly with the green of the surrounding nature and a few yards away a beautiful waterfall that flows over 30 meters ... We thank our driver for this show that made us know and distributed. The road to Chittorgarh is an open yard, miles and miles of destroyed, rebuilt without anything, you can not exceed 30 km per hour, you think to do little more than 160 kilometers takes us 5 hours ... half say it is too exhausting little! But it was more logical to destroy and build a little at a time? But logic is not at home around here .... we finally reached the fort of Chittorgarh (admission 2 euros including video + photos) and just seems impressive, with long walls, visit the museum (admission 5 cents) that hosts weapons and costumes, the Rana Kumbha Palace, the imposing Tower of Victroy and the beautiful Jain Temple, it is hot and you sweat, but what we see is to overcome the hurdles, India conquers us and especially her art comes powerfully in our hearts. We go out and grind km from the fort, this time on a beautiful street. Next step: Udaipur, the most romantic city of Rajasthan. We arrived around 17.00 and take it for 14 euros a beautiful room, with air conditioning, bathroom and sweeping views of the lake to Pahad Palace tel. 091-294-2433458 e-mail: raj_desai786@rediffmail.com or nakoda_international@rediffmail.com This becomes and will be the best hotel of our entire vacation. Shower and around 18:45 we go out for a walk around the "tourist" Udaipur. We expect tourists, stalls, restaurants and more ... but this is India and not Ibiza, so here too, albeit in a minor are poverty and filth. At first glance Udaipur disappoints us a little bit, we'll see tomorrow (think again) ... we decided to dine at the hotel. We pay 9 euro for a chicken to Rajputana, with cinnamon and pepper, a lemon and basil, but with a sauce that almost disgusts, boiled vegetables and noodles. Rating: Mediocre. Tomorrow dine elsewhere. At about 22:00 we go back to the hotel ... tomorrow awaits Udaipur ....

Udaipur

After a good night's sleep we wake up and make breakfast biscuits with coconut and mango juice bought the day before. The appointment with Raje is at 09.00 but at 08.45 we are already in the car desirous of discovering Udaipur. Begin our tour of the city from a vantage point where we admire the Lake Pichola, picturesque but dirty, the luxurious Lake Palace Hotel and the domes of the City Palace. Visit the Jagdish Temple, a great Hindu temple built in 1651, then we enter the City Palace (admission € 10.00 including video and photo). The City Palace complex is beautiful, crowned with towers, domes and balconies is the largest set of palaces of Rajasthan. We take many photos and visit the interior, now a part of a museum. This is a labiritno salt, rooms, thrones, all the bright colors and lively ....... spectacular!! We leave and enter into the Cristal Gallery and here fantasy beyond fiction, tables, chairs and even a bed of glass. We sit in the Durbar Hall and enjoy a Lemonsoda (included in ticket price) and I and Giusy already daydreaming about the next holiday: Cuba, Peru, Nepal, Burma, the U.S. ..... we'll see ......... Meanwhile, we end this! We left the City Palace and visit the nearby satisfied Bagore-Ki-Haveli (1 euro entrance with video + photo € 2.10), a pretty but after seeing the City Palace there is very poor (perhaps I should visit before this one) .. . It's hot, he sweats and suffers two devour ice cream, phoned my dad to tell him that everything is fine and around the 14:00 back to the hotel to freshen up (it's virtually impossible to stay out from 13.00 to 16.00). We leave again at 16.45 and we are going to Shilpgram Raje, an artisan village, created specially for tourists, Ground fl, 3 km from Udaipur (ingreso € 1.00 including video and photo). We say that the village is quite sad, with some of the musical group that sings and dances dressed Rajput Indian music, a few huts and some exhibitions of photos .... If you have limited time you can also avoid visiting. Begins to rain and ran back to the hotel ..... Giusy reads a book next to the window overlooking the lake and I write .... what a pair of letters! We leave at 19.00, hunger is a lot, go to the Natural View Restaurant, packed with tourists, with a terrace overlooking the lake that offers a superb panorama. We pay 12 euros for 2 grilled chicken (which bring us vegetables and covered with a strange jelly), vegetarian rice, boiled vegetables and 2 bottles of water. Udaipur greets us with a fantastic sunset ..... while the monkeys jumping on the terrace .... sated and tired back at the hotel. Tomorrow we travel to Mt.Abu.

Mt.Abu

Breakfast with the usual mango juice and cookies, this time with orange and then at 06.50 we start with the legendary Tata Indica to Raje. Destination: Mt.Abu. We expect 185 km of bumpy terrain, without a real safari animals, made for the inevitable ecezione cows. We arrived at Mt.Abu around the 10.40 and going down to see the first rooms of the Royal Park Hotel, a real dive, continue and stop at the hotel Lake View, a tavern less than the Royal, but still a dive, we book a room with fan, bathroom and views of the lake for 10 euros. We pay in advance (they ask the hotel manager) and then deposited the backpacks left for the Temples of Dilwara (free entrance and is strictly forbidden to film and take pictures). The temples of white marble Dilwara are wonderful, they seem almost fake because of their perfection. We are almost mesmerized by this beauty, and once we buy out the coconut and we have one too Raje, must go on. Let our driver at the hotel, you should see the room used for drivers, a squalid hovel, noisy and dirty. How unfair life! Raje invite to dine with us this evening, happy accepts! We continue our visit to Mt.Abu, I must say that Temples Dilwara aside, the town offers very little, a small town, a seedy market, a picturesque lake too used to our tastes. We climb the Toad Rock, to enjoy a beautiful view of the lake and around 15.30 we go back to the hotel for rest. Tonight exit with Raje! At 19.15 we go out but there is no trace of Raje, while we wait we tasted the scene of an enormous goat that eats the garden of our hotel, trying to hunt but she remains there in defiance of all ..... the power of hunger ! Raje and finally reaches us that can not be ... It's Indian! Then we go to the restaurant Arbuda and ingest food in industrial quantities, taste delicious, spending just 11 euro. Strolling in the evening to Mt.Abu gives a good feeling, so many colorful stalls, no seller aggressive and petulant, in short we are shooting is a pleasure. We buy our house for a towel 5m long for our couch (13 euro spending), then call me by my father that is good news .... is just a nice evening! In the store check out a giant rat that runs from side to side, Giusy comes out screaming and I follow her ... and shop owners who say, "India is full of mice and then this mouse is a mother of about 20 children ....( I swear I have said so )"!!!! We find the space for an ice cream with mango and around the 22:15 we are in bed. Wake up tomorrow to 06.00 .... another day, another adventure!

Kumbhalgarh e Ranakpur

06.45 hours and the roar of the Tata Indica comes on, salute Mt.Abu and head. Destination Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh. This time the road is bumpy and some zig-zag to Ranakpur arrive at 10.40. We book a double room for € 11.00, with fan and bathroom on Roompam Hotel. Pretty place in the middle of the green. Store your belongings and left for Kumbhalgarh 40 km of curves and breathtaking views, the trail runs it in the middle of the forest and the windows we see children who greet us, women in saris carrying huge weights on their heads, cows, camels , a porcupine, and more ...... India, a country waiting to be discovered! We arrive at Fort Kumbhalgarh (admission € 2.00 including photos and video). His vision gives a huge impact, see this magnificent castle perched on a mountain in the middle of the forest, with fewer than 36 km of walls is something to thrill! Despite its bare rooms, the interior is beautiful. We take many pictures and expect a French couple for a photo as a framework, we hope that we have come good! We left the castle and run away, this time at the temple of Ranakpur Jains (admission free, € 0.50 and € 3.00 per picture for the video) You can not go with her legs and bare shoulders, then give us some clothes ( fee and 0.30 ... that theft) very large, abnormal and obscene ... and we enter the temple is wonderful. White marble, with many large and small statues that reproduce the various idols. We leave satisfied, satisfied, sweaty and tired and so we return to the hotel at 15.30. After a short nap, we go out to 18.00 with Tap, a child who tries his hand at driving and that makes us do some trekking in the middle of the forest. Hard on the heels of a beautiful lake full of crocodiles, they say, but honestly we have not seen even one. At about 19:00 we go back to the hotel and decide to stay in the restaurant of Roompam Hotel, where we will spend 8 euros (including tip) for two plates of rice, 3 bottles of water and 2 plates of chicken masala (spice local). Frankly we are beginning to want a fresh salad, tomatoes and mozzarella ...... enough spice! Back in the room, you sleep, it starts tomorrow!

Jodhpur

Today is the birthday of the legendary Grandma Mimma, disappeared 3 ½ years ago, passing the time ... but nothing can erase from my heart! Wherever you are .... hello grandma!
We have breakfast at the hotel with toast, butter, jam and tea in India and we start to 08.00. After a few minutes we go back, Raje has forgotten her panties hanging from a branch of a tree to dry .... too loud! Take a road full of monkeys, three pictures of this trip are certainly mentioned: in 6 out of a moped, a motorcycle carrying two live goats and a truck passes another truck full of clothes and a driver through the window and reaches out stealing a shirt. The streets of India are like life! In 3 hours we are correct in Jodhpur, the blue city. We arrange the elegant Dhillon House e-mail: dhillonhouse3@yahoo.co.in where for a nice room with bathroom and air conditioning pay 14 euros (it cost us 18 but the discount). The hotel's owner proudly shows us all the rooms and tells us that if we write something about him we have to specify that this hotel is more suitable for those who stay more than one night. Deposited luggage and Giusy washes dirty linen .... the heat (really hellish) decides to leave at 16.00. Glides like a Swiss clock and under a scorching sun, at 4 in the afternoon we drive. First stop not miss Meherangarh, or the majestic fort of Jodhpur. This immense complex stands on a rock and is a formidable beauty (admission € 5.00 including photos and audio guide mandatory for video further 4 euros). We visit the fort in absolute silence, its rooms, its rooms, its alleys and its imposing walls we have literally kidnapped. This becomes absolutely the most beautiful strong we visited in Rajasthan. We left the castle and go to visit the Jaswant Thada, marble temple dedicated to the Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. The visit only externally as it is closed and our driver tells us that inside is pretty bare and it's not worth entering ... Back on the street stopping at every corner of the castle to take pictures on a photo ... At 18:00 we return the hotel for a shower. We leave at 19.30 and we headed to the restaurant on the rocks, a wonderful time in the middle of the green, with tables on the rocks, a nightclub and a bar. We spend 12 euros (including tip) for a divine grilled Tandoori chicken, goat and spicy herb sauce, 2 bottles of water, rice and Indian bread. It starts to rain lightly and we fear the worse since the restaurant is open, close my eyes and think about the magic of the moment, I think of Grandma Mimma, we speak of Giusy's father, who died some years ago, I ask my grandmother to give me a sign .... you put out the candle on our table ..... is not raining and the sky opens, displaying its wonderful stars ..... maybe you will not have been, but how nice if it were so! ! 21.00, our driver Raje (the best driver in the world) even goes so far in advance (the appointment was at 21.30). Return to the hotel but before going to bed take a short walk, bought some mango juice, biscuits, water and ice cream. Good night everyone!

Jodhpur, Mandore

We wake, we have breakfast with food bought the previous evening and at 09.00 we are in the car. Just 10 km from Jodhpur is Mandore, ancient capital of Marwar. We visit the gardens, full of monkeys and squirrels, its wonderful red-brown brick and domes ...... there is only one adjective to describe it all: beautiful! A real surprise, though unfortunately the inside of the times is rather Malten, dirty and deteriorated. Perhaps not realize what they have! We enter the museum (admission 5 cents) that exposes the remains of temples and then peck at the exit of a school children accompanied by teachers in Shari, who greets us. Make hot and just 10.15, sipping water and bought a mango juice Raje. We leave Mandore, satisfied and aware of having seen something that many tourists forgiveness. Go back to Jodhpur and do a drive through the city, that seems richer than the catastrophic New Delhi and Agra. Raje takes us to see this time from near the fantastic Taj Hari Mahal Palace, now 5-star hotel, which shape resembles a miniature Taj Mahal and then go to the residential district of Jodhpur with splendid villas for rich ...." people, "says Raje ... and right in front of these villas is a huge tent city with thousands of zombies living in desperate conditions .... the 2 faces in India start loudly and cruelly in front of our eyes .... It's hot, back to the hotel, this afternoon we go to the bazaar of Jodhpur. Around 14:00 we go out to buy the mango and a bottle of water and we realize that something is wrong, it was in fact raised a very strong wind and the sky turned black and heavy with rain. We arrive at the hotel and almost simultaneously began to rain incessantly all afternoon. Are 18.00 and continues to rain. Then jumps the bazaar of Jodhpur, sin ... we hope that the rain does not spoil our last week! Around 18:30 in the shower with Raje go to the bazaar, which appears to us despite the bad weather and some stall and closed store, very nice. We buy some presents for our family and we return to the restaurant around 20:00 On the rocks where it takes us a menu more expensive than they were yesterday, I explain and tell me that when you eat inside the food costs more .... but what's that?? We pay 15 euros (including tip) for 2 exceptional tandoori chicken, noodles, rice, vegetarian and bottle of water. Return to the hotel but before we buy the pineapple juice and 3 ice cream (one for Raje). Tomorrow, weather permitting, we face a hike in the desert ......

Jaisalmer - Khuri

We have breakfast with food bought at 07.40 the night before and we are in the car, towards Jaisalmer. The journey is long but never boring, because the road shortly after leaving Jodhpur enters the Thar desert and the scenery changes suddenly and completely. Sand dunes, shrubs and bushes that lead children to graze goats and cows, some peacock strolling and incredibly, wonderfully open the tail ...... To rest for a few minutes we stop at the village of Pokaran, a place notorious as was here that in 1998 the government indan exploded 5 nuclear devices. We visit the fort, but only outside, 4 euros for entry is really exaggerated, partly because the fort is in bad condition. We continue our journey and at 12.30 we enter the town of Jaisalmer. We stop first at the Hotel Raj Palace, but the 14 euros for the room that shows us are a theft and then we continue our search. Hotel Vallabh Darshan Stop e-mail: hotelvallbhdarshan@hotmail.com where for € 14.00 booked a nice double room with air conditioning, bath and window on strong. We rest a few hours, also because today Giusy is not in great shape ... puccia for my stomach problems! We leave around 15.30 and the air-conditioned Tata Indica does not work, remove everything Raje but no air conditioning .... we go to a mechanic who ran in four and quattrotto repairs and calls 50 cents, repeat 50 cents .... imagine an Italian mechanic who asks you this number? We go to Khuri, a small village located in the desert about 40 km from Jaisalmer. We book for € 12.00 a camel safari with dinner at Krishan Desert Resort (tel. 03014-274078/09928296413/09414469221) and part ..... The scenery is fantastic but I do not think a walk soft, 3 hours above this strange and curious animals can sorely test our legs and our backside. We climb the dunes and the show is fantastic, a sea of sand, bushes, and above all, a silence so deafening to break through our ears! I also feel the jump from a dune, but I fall ill and bangs his head, luckily they are "tough" ... even if for a moment I feared the worst .... Back to the Resort and we talk with Prakash 2, the owner a kind and friendly person who invites us for the next day to sleep in the desert .... I'm sorry but we do not accept! Maybe we just adventurous, but the idea of sleeping in darkness and total silence with some strange animal beside us .... I shiver and opt for the wild Giusy bed! For dinner we bring the inevitable rice, potatoes, cooked vegetables, soup and water. Around the 21:35 and at 22.30 we all salute the hotel ... what a day!

Jaisalmer

After the usual breakfast of fruit juice and biscuits off again at 09.30 at a time of Jaisalmer. We begin our tour with a strong (entrance included video and photos € 8,00). The fort of Jaisalmer is surprising because within its walls are an estimated 20,000 people, and its streets are hotels, shops, restaurants, vendors, barbers, it seems like cows .... short of stepping back in time. The fort itself is beautiful, but less impact than that of Jodhpur. Buy a book of Indian recipes (6 euros, but I wanted to 24.00) and today Giusy received many compliments, "You're an actress," I say it is beautiful and that I'm lucky .... I know a saying: " Sora Maria that everyone wants but no pious ..."!! We visit the temples in the fort Jains (admission € 2.00 including photos and video) ... beautiful, but unfortunately we are at the end of the holiday and it's too hard not to compare one temple to another, and here again we fall into the same trap ... . after seeing Mt.Abu and its Temples Dilwara this gives us less emotion. We go out and get lost in the strong markets outside the walls, Raje we expect from a merchant (his friend) and a bit of compassion, some for friendship, bought 4 pillows cover price of € 7.00. Today we are fainting! We go to visit a Haveli, exactly that of Salim Singh-Ki Haveli (admission € 1.00 including video and photos). This disappoints us, also because the interior is decidedly decadent. We go out and do a chat with Raje and his friend in his shop. The heat does not give us respite and around 12:30 we are in the hotel. Lunch with mango and banana, and we rest at 17.00 .... share and we visit only the beautiful outdoors Patwon-ki-Haveli, then continue through the village of Lodhrova, located 15 km from Jaisalmer. Mi cimento in driving and the greatest difficulty and change gear with your left hand at the end .... still passed the test. We visit temples, Jains (Admission € 0,40, € 2.00 video, photos € 1.00) constructed in brick and returning to Jaisalmer to shoot some photos a memorial dedicated to a maharaja. A village just below the domes formed by wind mills. When the ancient and modern mingle in an extraordinary or catastrophic puzzle. Let's go and visit the Jaisalmer Gadi Sagar, a lake with many temples and ghats around. They're making a movie India ... want to see that propose to puccia my part? It's almost 19:00 and we enter into the search box at some restaurant and our choice fell on Little Tibet, a relaxing atmosphere with a terrace offering a breathtaking view over the fortress of Jaisalmer and the square below. We pay € 6.00 (including tip) for 2 chickens, a lemon (bad) and a roast (good), rice vegetarian (good), noodles (discrete) and 2 bottles of water. I know a couple of Finns, and then a Treviso ... we talk to them and the Italians who have turned much put us on his head a place: Peru! Who knows .... It starts to rain and it is time to return to the hotel, tomorrow we face the longest journey of the tour ... good rest!

Redrova - Kolayat - Bikaner

Mango juice, cookies, and at 08.30 we are in the car, destination Bikaner, 300 km of a road that cuts straight and in the middle of the desert. We stop first at Redrova, where we visit the charming but crumbling Hindu temple, a place of pilgrimage in India. We walk back along the way and we stop to film and photograph, a bearded man of devotion that is doing 300 km, rising and lying on the road continuously .... crazy stuff! I refuse to believe that God, whatever it is, be pleased with such a thing. Share and we stopped again to photograph a herd of camels walking along the desert, is truly amazing what one finds along the Indian roads. Also visit Kolayat, a village with a lake and the sacred temples and ghats that surround it. Perhaps the most mystical of Pushkar, but we still preferred the most famous and tourist Pushkar, not least because the indigenous Kolayat do nothing but pray to ask for money .... the face of mysticism! We arrive in Bikaner around 14 euros to 15.00 and take a nice room with air conditioning and bathroom elegant Padmini Niwas e-mail: padmini_hotel@rediffmail.com We rest all afternoon and at 18.00 we leave for a short walk. Bikaner also opens to us like all other Indian cities, open sewers, garbage, environmental degradation, traffic, smog and the sound of car horns at full blast .... indecent ... I wonder how a human being is can accept this situation? Buy apple juice and exotic, biscuits, bottled water and go back to the hotel. At about 19:00 we decided to try the hotel restaurant, where for € 12.00 (is an account all at the end) Take 2 tandoori chicken (good but those of On The Rocks were another matter), potatoes and peas , spinach and cheese and 1 bottle of water. Return to the hotel and we rest. Tomorrow we will visit the center of Bikaner!

Bikaner

Breakfast with apple juice, tropical fruit and biscuits and at 10.00 o'clock we are on the Tata Indica with Raje. Today is very hot, it makes it difficult to breathe, every meter we do is a huge effort. We begin our tour of Bikaner Junagarh fort called by the inevitable (admission € 5.00 including video, photos and the entrance to the museum). The strong with less than 37 red-brick ramparts and strong and unlike others we visited in Rajasthan is not positioned on a hill but in the city. Junagarh is beautiful and it is especially beautiful in its interior. The rooms are all well kept and offer exceptional paintings, furniture, armor, costumes, jewelry and jewelry used by different Maharajas. Without any doubt we can say that the rooms in this best are the best of all the interior forts we visited in this region. We go by the strong hot, and with our driver off again, this time we visit the Lalgarh Palace, the palace built by Maharaja Ganga Singh in memory of his father Maharaja Lal Singh, today however this magnificent red building, consisting of balconies and cupolas were used to 5-star hotel ...... indecent! The visit only outside, walking through the park and observe a real peacock on a branch .... wonderful! At 12.30 the heat becomes unbearable, then bought some ice cream (the one we offer Raje) is back at the hotel. The date is set for 16:00 to go to the Research Center for Camels in Bikaner (admission € 0.15 cents including photos, filming is not allowed .... but then you do as you wish). The center is definitely interesting and something totally different from everything we've seen so far. We enjoy some of this funny animal herds, while they eat and drink, we see some camels pregnant and those who have recently given birth and are close to their babies .... then meets a pair of La Spezia and he works in the office of an uncle Giusy .... when you say that the world is small .... they also recommend us a nation: Peru ..... we already see on the Machu Picchu ... We left the center and give us the milk of camel , but given all the filth of these days refuse politely. Around 18.00, after speaking with my father and he bought juice, biscuits and water back to the hotel. At 19.30 we are in the hotel restaurant, as in Bikaner are very few restaurants, we pay € 6.00 (including taxes and tip) for a plate of noodles, rice, two plates of boiled vegetables, a bottle of water . While we are eating incredibly arrive at the hotel the couple in La Spezia known in the research center of the camels, unfortunately there are no spare rooms and are forced to leave, we exchange e-mail, he called Dino and is a diver ... from fear, is the first time that we know one! Back in the hotel room, tomorrow we face one of the temples the most disturbing of the entire planet, to Deshnok, bursting with mice ..... hope there is at least Mickey Mouse ....

Deshnok - Bikaner

After breakfast with apple juice, various fruits and biscuits, to 08.00 o'clock we leave for Deshnok. The route is linear, the road in good condition and in our thoughts arise early doubts. "But who does it do '? Giusy is silent, I am pretty excited, in fact, the rat is an animal that always made me feel .... In 45 minutes we arrive at the exact Karni Mata Temple and the vision of some tourist comforts us. Here it is right to make a preliminary, we made a bet with an Italian friend of ours, if we go into the temple and to move closer to mice, of course, tried everything from photos and video, we would have paid him a dinner of fish: "Luciano prepares linguine with seafood ..."!! The entrance to the temple (admission free, € 1.00 € 0.30 per photo for video) is made through a beautiful door silver under an arch, you enter rigorously without shoes (we had 2 pairs of socks each) we see the rats jumping and running first from one side and another group of rodents is situated around a large bowl of milk, we see some sleeping, others who are walking close to our feet, and I Giusy're stuck, shoot All photos and movies, but the fun is yet to come .... as soon as you enter the temple you enter topoland .... thousands of rats are everywhere, climbing on railings, running, squealing, eat, sleep, inquisitive approach to our feet, but fortunately do not bite ... we needed just that .... we come to another bowl of milk, bigger than previous and chock-full of mice, Raje we take a picture ... . we sweat and sweat, then enter a tunnel on foot, dimly lit, crammed with rats in our side .... shocking ... we see a couple of tourists who can not get in and out of the running time ... and I Giusy Instead continue until the end! Filming everything .... like in a horror film .... We're huge! We left the temple dazed, sweaty and aware that what we have seen today and take him with us for the rest of our lives! Exceptional and spectacular are the right terms, one of the most exciting things in our lives .... pure adrenaline! It's hot and the vision of those mice has enabled us to come hungry ..... slurp! We buy mangoes for our lunch and water bottles. He returns to the hotel, the appointment is for 17.00 and as usual there punctual Raje Scarrozza around Bikaner. We visit a Jain Temple with a local guide who speaks only in India and claim that we understand, give him 10 rupees (20 cents) to shut up ..... the power of money! We left the temple and go into the Old City to visit another Hindu temple, but most of the temple what struck us is the Old City of Bikaner, the stench of shit and piss on all sides, about fifty cows rummages in the garbage, gruesome scenes .... Raje tells us that hospitals and schools in India sucks! We genuinely need to clean up .... in every sense. Around 19.00, after buying the usual juice, biscuits and water returns to the hotel for a shower. At 19.30 we leave and go to the hotel restaurant Haras Haveli, with a lovely roof terrace that offers sweeping views over the city of Bikaner and stadium Karm Singh, there are also musicians, actually a little sad that they can play and dance Indian music ... I'm doing a dance but not really for me. We pay € 13.00 (including tip) for 2 chicken tikka (roast) very delicious, Giusy and vegetables for rice with chicken for me, plus a bottle of water. At 21.45 we go back to the hotel to eat 2 ice cream. Tomorrow, the appointment is at 08.00, you go to Mandawa in the Shekhawati region, the area of Haveli.

Fatehpur, Mandawa

After breakfast of pineapple juice and biscuits at 07.40 we leave for Mandawa. The road is straight and fast, the time passes quickly despite the music of our driver Raje (cassette Indian Panjabi music from the 50 ... terrible)! Just emerged from Bikaner we stop to visit a Hindu temple that looks like the entrance to an amusement park, there are in fact plastic dolls at least 10 meters tall depicting a monkey, an elephant (the God Gamesh) and Shiva. You enter a giant mouth of a lion ... no comment! Travel over the road and we stop at Fatehpur, a city that offers splendid haveli, we visit to Mahavir Prasa Goenka, we find it closed and the outside world, despite its poor condition of the frescoes still offers wonderful, Geor Shankar Haveli, this can only visiting the outside, because we live in some Indian families; Nan Lal Devra Haveli, visited both inside and outside, beautiful, decadent, inhabited by a few Indian families that offer us tea and in return accept my missing (€ 1.00), and the most beautiful, the Haveli Hari Krishnan Das Saroga (admission € 2.00), which offers the inside of the beautiful frescoes, salt, a gallery of paintings by local artists and The Prince French artist who lives in this haveli ... absolutely not miss. Ten honors and also in the lead with grace and irony that Shabnam has explained everything very well. It 'been in France, she would like to come to Italy, is a picture with Giusy and we give our e-mail, she is happy! We leave the haveli and out of such beauty and grace awaits the city of Fatehpur, with her children who are begging, its open sewers, its nauseating odors .... this is the real India, I think to myself. Around 13.00 hrs we get to Agra, where for € 12.00 take a room with air conditioning and bathroom at the Hotel Shekhawati. 3 eat a banana and mango, and we rest. Around 17.00 in the company of Raul, a local boy who tried to do the tour guide (at the end we gave € 2.00), we go to the discovery of Mandawa. We visit various havelis like the Gulab Rai Ladia and beautiful Goenka Haveli, where we speak with the owner Pradeep Goenka, a cute 45 year old, which tells the story of the haveli and the village, it also shows the Italian newspaper "Gulliver" where they speak of His haveli .... there is a lot of questions about Rome, the beautiful Rome! Giusy phones home and Ramona, a friend of ours dog-sitter, to know how is our mythical and "beddu" Ugo, our little dog .... okay .... but not all toglieteci Hugh! Mandawa town manages to be worse than many other Indian cities, in other words, apart from the haveli, total rubbish and smells so strong and nauseating Giusy that at some point you almost feel bad .... at 19.00 returning to the hotel where we shower and eat. We spend € 9.00 (including taxes) for 2 chicken Masala, 2 vegetarian meals of rice, 4 cheese toast and vegetables (the vegetables, but I'm still looking) and a bottle of water. We ate better. Stay a little terrace and near Raje who also wants to talk a bit. As we descend know two girls, one Spanish and one in Guatemala, both living in Los Angeles. They, too much running and they also had the same feelings about the Rajasthan, which is nice, but hard, dirty and with people too intrusive. Of all the trips that have guessed what we recommend? Peru .... then we were just driving there! Return to the hotel, our trip is drawing to a close. Tomorrow, the appointment is for 09.30 .... where shall we go? Can not wait until tomorrow?

Nawalgarh - JunJhunu

Bad night, around the 03.00 he took his current and stops the fan is that the air conditioning, the room became an oven, it is hard to breathe, you remain in this condition until 0600 and then Lord ...." What did he give Him thanks "! Power returns and returns to breathe. Breakfast with mango juice and cookies and you leave for Nawalgarh 09.15, but first stop at Fort Mukundgarh, I visited only on the outside, partly because it has been transformed into a luxury hotel and want to get EUR 1 .... 1 euro to see a hotel? But from that .... We continue and arrive at Nawalgarh, a small town with many haveli, we visit with the help of two local guides (we will give them € 3.00 at the end), that of Baghton of Aath and especially the beautiful Dr. Ramnath Podar Haveli Museum at (admission € 3.00 including video and photo), which has beautiful murals, the rooms very well restored and exhibitions on the culture of Rajasthan. We find a dvd store and buy 2 movies Indian and Asif Rasool, two Afghan friends who live in Italy. Around 12:30 we travel the road again, this time it goes in the direction of Junjhunu, one of the great cities of the Shekhawati region. The city looks much more "orderly" other capacity in India. Book a nice hotel room Jamuna Resort-mail: shivshekhawati@hotmail.com. We pay just € 14.00 for an elegant room, with air conditioning, bathroom, outside courtyard and the hotel even offers a garden with swimming pool and restaurant ... panic! We rest in the room, especially to avoid the hot hours of the day. The appointment to discover Junjhunu is at 18.00. See you later ...... We manage to sleep a few hours and at 18.00 paritamo discovering Jhunjhunu, we start from the beautiful and imposing Rani Sati Temple, shame the most interesting part is prohibited to photograph and film, we continue to Khetri Mahal, a palace of 1770 in very bad conditions, the Bihariji Temple, Jain temple Raje and finally brings us to a Hindu temple with a huge old redwood. We are shooting a bit for the city, hopping on cow droppings and open sewers, we are literally assaulted by groups of children who ask us pens or money. Around 19:30 we return to the hotel for a shower. Today we decide to stay in the hotel restaurant and Raje joins us. The choice of the restaurant is true bull's eye, we pay € 9.00 (including taxes and tip) for 3 vegetarian dishes typical of Rajasthan, one with peas and cheese, potatoes and tomatoes is very good, 2 plates of rice, Indian bread (chapati) and 2 water bottles. After dinner we go out with Raje, buy ice cream (of course closed), from a street vendor who opens the fridge with a padlock, pull out all the ice cream, some are already open in the meantime around us formed a little group of curious that looks at us and smiling ... we respond to smiles, after 3 weeks in India than anything else can happen? We choose the ice cream and return to the hotel ..... Tomorrow is our last day of vacation, returns to Delhi Raje but that was almost perfect for the whole trip has promised a surprise .... see you tomorrow then!!

New Delhi

And 'our last day, and as always, the latest images are the ones that do more harm to the heart, so there seems almost poetic to see yet another cow in the streets, children running naked in the middle of the people there and the trash seems almost a work of art .... We leave after a breakfast of mango juice Junjhunu and at 0700 we are reaching New Delhi. After about 30 minutes travel Raje stops at a Hindu temple, a place of pilgrimage for many people tell us that in this place many terminally ill people are inexplicably healed. Raje prays for his father, ill with cancer and we pray with him. Giusy runs with a group of women around a tree and I do the same with a group of men, they tell me is a ritual to bring good luck. Think that to get to this temple there are people who walked on foot for about 400 km! Take the road and Raje today is particularly happy, we understand, will embrace his family after 3 weeks. In Delhi we stop to visit the Temple of Chattebourgh (I hope you spell that) and it is something fantastic pinnacles, pink and white brick pagodas, a giant statue depicting a red monkey, a wonderful place! Surprises even more this time, because it is outside of any tourist circuit and I repeat it is something really cool! An Indian we tie a bracelet on his arm, it squirts water and we paint them with a red forehead, speak words of India. We give 1 euro ..... and it took so long? We left the temple and go to visit the Bahai Temple, a Hindu temple in the shape of lotus, with the white exterior and the interior that resembles a bare conference room. In this temple (admission free) is not allowed to take pictures, shoot, use the phones, talking, running or other attention .... so ... shhhhhhhhhh! We're back on the street and unbelievable but lunch we stop at a deli, there Chop a chicken and a half and have lunch too Raje, who has become a friend .... contact him and fear! We pay 2 euros and a half ... stuff ..... We do not believe the office of Francis who proudly shows us another Italian guy who wrote very highly of him and his drivers at the Lonely Planet ... deserves all our applause, and then reminds us that tonight we are invited to his house to dinner: done deal! We need a shower and Francis call the hotel for New Hindustan € 4.00 gives us a room from 15.30 to 18.00. I have an argument with one of the owners, too arrogant, his attitude, but when I do I feel I apologize and promise me a big discount the next time I go back to India ...... The appointment with Raje is 18.00. We go out with the Tata Indica and with us as well Raje There is also Francis. We come in humble and comfortable house of Francis, his wife Aisha awaits us, the beautiful smiling face, the willful daughter Veronica, and sons Joseph and sympathetic Manu. Francis tells us of his life and his great faith in God and Jesus, let alone Italy, our travel, we drink beer and we all sat around a small table is an evening .... simple, true, hard to forget Around 21.00 ..... we salute you all and the airport. Delhi Flight Milan Malpensa is perfect, on time, but with the usual poor service ... I explained why I Alitalia capita capital Rome must go through an airport in Milan Malpensa airport as provincial? Delhi-Rome direct no?? And then ... as usual puts his Alitalia, flight Milan Rome is canceled, we move as coach of the animals to Linate and instead of starting at 09.15 we start at 14:00 ALITALIA ... NO MORE '! We arrive in Rome and our trip almost ends there.

Report of a Journey

What remains of a trip to India? The images are many but the memories are mixed up with the colors of the shari with children who smile at you and with their big eyes and blacks they ask for money or pens, emotions are mixed into small fragments, in cows, in the sun, sewers, smells, which can be intoxicating, but most times they are disgusting and vomitevoli ....... What remains of India is the sweat, a drop that falls slowly from our front thirsty of knowledge, which washes the shirt of a pastor .... What remains of a trip to India the temples are fantastic, huge, unreachable ..... but most of them are hidden by a veil that hides her face tired of a woman. India is hungry and thirsty, it is the desire to go when you're gone, and the desire to escape when you're there .... What remains of a trip to India are the unmistakable flavors of spices, the melancholy of a embrace, suffering, hope and helplessness in the face of what you see ...... The India surprises you, sometimes they smile, you get sick, but slowly kills you .... What remains of trip to India is the awareness of having been there, even if time fades memories and slowly a doubt assails you ..... and if it was all a dream?
Please God: "Let me go"!