Java, Bali, Sulawesi, my beatiful trip to Indonesia

Smoking volcanoes, rice fields in terrace, the scent of incense and frangipani, throbbing music of the gamelan, flavor spices, smiles of children, fiery sunsets, spectacular dawns.
Over 600 photos, almost 3 hours of film and yet it seems to me that is not enough to capture all the details and all the emotions tested in this trip!
We spent almost a month in Indonesia, between the islands of Java, Bali and Sulawesi, organizing the trip independently. Of course, to know thoroughly the largest archipelago in the world it would probably a year, but the time available to us has enabled us to fully enjoy the atmosphere and hear some of the amazing culture of this wonderful country.

 

The travel

Alarm Clock 4 hours, the first alarm at the dawn of a discrete series ...
5 us to the house waiting for the taxi to Linate ... Who we are: I Karin, Paul, my husband, Henry and Georgia, our friends with whom we were in Bavaria last winter. Of course that Indonesia is not Bavaria, I warned them ... Since I was "the official organizer of the trip, I collected and made them read all the material can be: stories, advice, warnings from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, but they have not discouraged, and we are on track with our zainoni and backpacks! While waiting for the taxi that does not arrive, I find a way to get a mosquito sting from Milan ... on the eyelid! I was already anxious to look like the Elephant Man at the time of check-in and not recognize me from that will examine my passport ... Fortunately on the way up to Linate everything is resolved ...
Embark backpacks up in Amsterdam because it is fly with Alitalia, then we must recover in Holland and then again in the check-up with the Garuda in Yogyakarta.
I give you an idea of tiring journey for nothing when we are facing: Milan-Amsterdam, Amsterdam-Singapore, Singapore-Jakarta, Jakarta-Yogyakarta ... I dare not even count the hours of flight without talking to those waiting ... But it is all we have found, however, by booking 4 months in advance! The flight cost us 1200 euros. Fortunately, life on the spot will be of great economic ...
Yogyakarta is located in the center of Java, the main island and most populated of Indonesia, Muslim.
To give a context for the journey, until two days ago, Indonesia was one of the Top 5 countries where NOT to go, according to the site "Travel safe! Well, encouraging! However, our desire to travel is greater and we hope that we do not understand anything unpleasant.
Moreover, apart from the risk attack, Indonesia is also part of the so-called "Belt of Fire", which means high risk of earthquake and / or eruption of numerous volcanoes! In fact, less than two months ago, exploded the Bromo, one of the most famous volcanoes in Indonesia, killing two tourists. This is the third thing that we should make on the trip: climb Bromo ... Vabbè, I say, we'll see when we will be there ... Giorgia is not at all reassured! Comforting to analyze the statistics and I see that should not erupt for the next 4 years ...
But for now we are on the plane, a 747-400 of Garuda Indonesia, the direction of Singapore, where there will be a stop. We already started with an hour delay and we expect 12 hours of flight to the Lion City.
The Garuda is not the best company with which it has traveled, but it was the cheapest and then I liked the idea of flying with the airline, to get some 'atmosphere. The "Be Sampi base manis" served for dinner was very good ...

ARRIVAL IN INDONESIA AND THE FIRST WITH IMPACT Yogyakarta (Java)

In Singapore, during the stopover, I do not even notice that we have the chance to get off the plane and go to the airport, meanwhile, fill the forms for immigration. After an hour and winds of flight, we are in Jakarta. Getting off the plane, a warm flushing of us to invest together quell'odore characteristic of wet that I have always found in Southeast Asia. Quell'odore Strangely, though some 'unpleasant, fills me with joy: they are in Asia! They are in Indonesia! Finally!
Hurry the formalities of immigration and paying the $ 25 visa valid for 30 days. Caution, very important if you intend to stay beyond 30 days in Indonesia, you have to ask the Indonesian Embassy Seen in Italy before leaving. Do not like the Italian couple was in the queue before us and that was a blow to find that he could not stay more than a month with Visa issued on the spot! The only thing I could do at that point was a return to a country bordering on the expiry of 30 days and then return to Indonesia ... Absurd!
We reach for the race check-in of Garuda after having retrieved the luggage (all by luck!) For the final destination: Yogyakarta (pronounced Giogiakarta, but is affectionately called Yogya / "Giogiò" by its inhabitants). We must pass a series of controls but in the end we will do to take the plane despite the coincidence shortly. At the small airport we head towards the taxi and the crowd that I expected for us not ... Strange ... Indeed, no one sees! I decide to ask a driver if we can bring to the city and he replies that we must first make the ticket office at the airport! In fact, here it works like this: you must communicate your destination to the employee, pay the fee and receive in return a kind of voucher to present to the driver. However, it is the first and last time we will see it during our trip, probably works at airports.
The question that brings us to our hotel, the Istana Batik (Rp 170,000 per night with breakfast - 10,000 Rp = 1 Euro) is already a concentration of Javanese life is a slaughterhouse, and all play without rules are exceeded, c 'is everywhere people, motorbikes, becak (s rickshaw) ... In short, a big confusion! Our inn, booked by email, it's very nice from the outside and is located near the train station and a stone's throw from Malioboro Road, the main street of Yogya. The rooms are less beautiful than we expected especially compared to the photos published on the internet, but seem clean. We change now and we do repair a dip in the small pool, very welcome after 28 hours of travel!
There are about 17 and we have no intention of going to sleep so we change it again and leave to make a tour in Malioboro Rd, where there is a market almost a kilometer under the arcades. The goods on display is not a big thing (t-shirts, shirts, shoes, little handicraft) especially when you have already seen other Asian markets but it is worth to observe the traffic of the avenue hallucinating and be the center of attention, because time of tourists we have only ourselves and all eyes are upon us! Some girls will even touch your hair (it will be because we are blondes?)!
Here the night falls quickly to 19 and let's find a place to eat our first dinner in Indonesia. The Lonely we recommend Bladok (where it had tried to book rooms via email in vain because they do not accept reservations. It is always full of "backpackers" and it is difficult to find a room! I made a turn and it seems very clean and nice, there is also a pool, then a good economics). Unfortunately it seems that the menu is mostly Western, but please visit the local food: I will mee goreng (fried or noodles) and banana pancake with chocolate. Not bad for a start! Then a little chat 'with the type of reception that I proposed several packages for Bromine, the famous volcano of which I spoke at the beginning. Will decide tomorrow, we want to make the trip in two days, there is still time. Let's go back to the hotel and collapsed in our beds ...

YOGYAKARTA AND PRAMBANAN

I wake up at 7, after 9 hours of sleep. I feel formissima! After breakfast we take a little 'money, and Enrico Giorgia change Traveler's checks, we will get to an ATM because we have not done in time to buy before you leave Traveler ... (With hindsight I would argue that this solution has proved very practical, we have found distributors almost everywhere, the only limit is that you can withdraw only the equivalent of 100 euros and that there is a small commission, but there is also the TC ...). We go even to the office of Garuda to reconfirm the return flights and buy tickets for the Sulawesi. Cost Rp 1,557,000 per head, which is half the price indicatomi in Italy. Worth the wait to get them here! Into the we are the only tourists, is full of Indonesians, the long awaited opportunity to learn some numbers in Bahasa Indonesian. In an agency should take note and wait your turn and as she called the numbers in your language, you learn our best not to jump to the next round! Store all the formalities can dedicate to the exploration of Yogya.
After leaving the safe of our money and documents, we go to the Kraton (palace of the Sultan) in becak. Taken with the old that we want to come and bring the figure of 6,000 Rp per person. Becak the course are designed for the corpulence of the Asian and we're in a little 'uncomfortable but it's fun. Every so often I get a terrible sense of guilt when I hear behind me the man pedaling like a madman to go! Arrived at their destination, he does not want to be paid immediately and said that we expect out of the Kraton so we can go back with him but since we have no idea the time at which we prefer to leave him the money and feel more free. In the end we are no longer returned from this part but I am sure he will have waited a long time.
The visit of the Kraton is not a big thing but it is the main attraction of the city. Soon after we go to visit the Taman Sari with a guy that makes us as a guide (the guide here are easily and is useless to go to some agency to book the tour of the city). There are the pools where the women took a bath while the Sultan chose from those who liked. The guide tells us, amused, that the Sultan could also choose other in the same day! We chat with our guide is very interesting, he asks how Europeans perceive the Indonesians after the bombings in Bali and Jakarta, repeated several times that he "does not want to be a good Muslim" in the sense that it is not integrist and with your words you feel you want to post all the events involving Muslims in the world. It 'very concerned by our opinion.
End up hopelessly in a batik shop after our friend told us that only 45 to 500 artists were selected by the Sultan to live in the district of Kraton and this choice gives him the right to have an identity card. Obviously we do not leave the store with empty hands. Want to make, buy a gorgeous batik painting by one of the artists chosen by the Sultan? From the ruins around the Taman Sari, at dawn or sunset, you have a good observation point for the Gunung Merapi volcano, active and dangerous ...
At 15 we are ready to go to Prambanan, a Hindu temple 17 km from Yogya. We agreed with the transportation to the hotel and a chauffeur to take us with a minibus. In Indonesia, there is never hard to find some means of transport, there is always someone ready to take you where you want at a price still to be negotiated.
And so, for Rp 160,000 and after 4-hour journey we arrived at the site of Prambanan, which in reality is not so detached from the city as I would have expected. The ticket for tourists is $ 10 for local costs Rp 7000, but rightly so, we have standards of living very different. For additional Rp 40,000 in 4 rent the services of a young boy who will guide us (we say that a lot has insisted that we choose to!). He is esaltatissimo, and to our great surprise speaks Italian - is self-taught - but uses a little language 'cervellotico, we understand why he does it to impress! Tells us everything and we sull'induismo bas describes each of the temples, so much so that after a po 'no longer understand anything and I dedicate the observation of the sunset ... that lasts a few seconds in reality. All site acquires a particular view at this time and tourists began to leave. A family of Indonesians are asking us to take a picture with them! I had read in the Lonely which for them is very nice to touch or approach a white-skinned foreigners and we are happy to lend to this reversal of roles! After the tour, chatted a little 'with our guide and talk about life in the West, he is very impressed by the costs of things from us, to him are meaningless! When we have to convert Rupees in the price of a house in Milan is about to faint ... At 18.30 we go to the open-air restaurant with view of the Prambanan, which is part of the package that we bought at our hotel. For Rp 45,000 plenty to eat on the buffet table in the middle of a meadow with a very fascinating temples on lighting. Ve lo consiglio. At 19.30 enter nell'anfiteatro with our ticket "VIP" (Rp 150,000) to see the performance of the Ramayana Ballet. Vip place gives us the right to a semi-upholstered armchair with a view right on the stage and a bag containing a strictly warm Coca Cola, a small fan and an Indonesian snack. Cool, is not it ?!... The show lasts 2 hours, past the first 30 minutes of blissful admiration of the costumes and the actors manage to beat the gamelan players and the singer ... Vabbè by, I'm exaggerating! With the sheet that explains the story of Ramayana is all more fun, we know in advance what will happen, we also fun with the presence at our side of a pair of Roman that makes us burst with laughter with a few phrases now legendary among us , but who has not seen the Ramayana can not understand ... ( "to do 'is the monkey?" "eh I do not know, the bird is dead!"). Vabbè, beyond ...
After the show we return to the parking lot where our driver had to expect. But we find the minibus to board him there is no trace, but there's a girl in Indonesia, and should not be to our minibus ... After three times around the car park but there is doubt that it is just that our middle and come back when there comes close behind us the driver smiling teeth at 50 ... Ah ecco! While we were enjoying the spectacle he had found a way to spend time with his girlfriend! Without explanation, start the engine and takes us back to the hotel. The streets of Yogya are overflowing with people and there are also some concerts in the street! Even if the urge to throw in the middle is great we can not stop us, we wake up tomorrow at 4!

FANTASTIC DAWN IN BOROBUDUR

Waking up at 4 is never a pleasant experience on the go but strangely I weigh much less. Our driver, however, is not on the road and has not woken up! Fortunately after a couple of phone calls made by an employee of our hotel, we will take an old man we see is the father. Our destination is Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world. Outside is still dark but there is already a large movement in the streets. Throughout the trip, which lasts nearly an hour, we see people running, walking, who knows where all go, some barefoot? After a few km we find a huge market on the edge of the road, perhaps to their destination? But they are just 5 am! I understand that here life starts very early, contrary to what is happening to our world.
We arrive at the gate of the temple before 6, but we do not open before that time. I am a little 'disappointed because now it is a day and I do not understand why everyone said to be to see the sunrise at Borobudur if we open the gate when the sun has already risen some time ... boh ... We will see a little 'when we are about. Beware, there are two entrances, one for the premises, which costs Rp 9000, and one for the tourists who are demanding $ 10, as Prambanan. We had naively believed that Borobudur was much cheaper than Prambanan because we had not seen the other entrance! When you enter the threshold of Ticket accelerated pace and walk up to the temple which seems a huge wedding cake with several floors made of lava rock.
The climb is not easy, there are stairs rather high and most of them I am doing the race because I just realized that what is "at the dawn Borobudur ... In fact, going up the stairs I noticed that the sun had risen, yes, but it was hidden behind the volcano Merapi and that was about to go out again from behind the imposing mountain! The sky is already tinged with a beautiful orange. When I get on top of the temple here is that the show begins! I am breathless to climb but even without words in front of this almost mystical vision! The sun is emerging quickly from behind the volcano and all the drugs that adorn the top floors of Borobudur, some of which reveal that seeds destroyed statues of Buddha, created incredible pulling back against the fiery sky. When the sun becomes a little 'more "normal" I look around. All wet in peace and serenity. The temple is surrounded by vegetation and there are mountains and rice fields all around, wrapped in a light mist, it is really fascinating. Fortunately, there are few tourists, therefore there is no noise and we can enjoy the magic of this place in peace, walking on the various levels of the temple. Here, as at Prambanan, there are hundreds of bas-reliefs carved in stone, all tell a story, unfortunately we have not taken the lead and we can not understand them, but observe them is very interesting and the stories we tell to us according to our imagination. I only know this church was built in 800 and up to 30 years ago was completely covered in ash!
When we are the way around 7:15, I believe it is already past a lot of time because we are standing for more than 3 hours! As we descend the stairs to go back, are getting different groups of tourists and school groups in Indonesia, a man asks to take a picture with me and we will shoot his wife!
And here we are meeting with the boys from selling statuettes. And we open the Chapter Purchases! If you do not want to buy a figurine or anything else that it is proposed, you have to immediately say no and pull ahead, otherwise just show the slightest interest in an item, you are ruined, of course, said ironically. I do not I have never felt really annoyed (except in a few cases in Bali), these meetings with the vendors are usually pretty nice and if you deal with the right spirit you can do great business! Obviously my eyes look at a small statuette of lava rock, which is a stupa of Borobudur. I see it already in my living room ... Want it! I say no, to form the beginning, but then I have ... and the bargaining begins. The boy continues to repeat "morning price, morning price" ... thank goodness that I had studied the Lonely a few days before. If you're the first customer of the day, the seller will make you a good price, the famous "morning price", because it will bring luck for the whole day and I have to be the first customer, because we are the first tourists arrived! After a few hundred meters to negotiate and several "ohhh noo! Bankrout ...!" for its part, we agree to Rp 30,000. I just finished paying immediately asks me if I want to buy another! E no eh ... Obviously a few meters below other sellers offer me the same statuette a. .. 10,000 Rp! I have no words. Rise with us in almost minibus and until we leave their arms laden with statuettes are strained through the windows and pull down the prices so shameful ... even if you say that you just say you bought one with the greatest naturalness: "Buy another !"...
After we go to visit two other nearby temples (Pura Pura Mendut and Pawon totally devoid of tourists) and purchase two beautiful wooden masks in a small shop for Rp 150,000.
We decided then to make the "sboroni" and give us a fantastic breakfast. A boy (Alex, Indonesia GPC) advised me to go to breakfast in a hotel "supermegafigo" (his words!) With a view of the Borobudur, but forgetting to give me the name. See the Lonely, one seems to fit the description, we are lead by our driver. After a couple of kilometers, trails on a dirt road, we arrive at the top of a hill and we are in front of the reception of "supermegafigo". At this point we can not turn back even if we imagine that this breakfast will cost us a quarter of our weekly budget and the driver will spring there, saying that it should be a park to expect later. There we meet an hour later. A beautiful young man, dressed in a traditional dress, we are meeting with a sweet voice asks us to follow him after I told him that we would like to have breakfast. We are trekking clothes, not exactly the type of clothing that one might expect in a hotel like this, but it seems that no amounts would be absolutely nothing. The hotel is very particular, the common areas are located in a structure that looks like a huge temple, mid-air, so there is marble everywhere, beautiful flowers, a breathtaking view of the forest and in the distance on Borobudur! We sit down, there is no one around and a lot of peace, it seems an oasis, rest our Gambino admiring the view through the colonnade of the restaurant. Needless to say that the breakfast is fantastic. After paying (hum hum, Rp 667,600 in 4, hardly the price of 4 nights in our hotel in Yogya!), The beautiful boy first asks us if we visit one of the Suite ... Why not?
We collect our backpacks and follow the corridors outside the walls created by the various houses which are the rooms. It 'really special, the rooms are ready to bow on the side of a hill, and if you have $ 1000 available per night (with private pool), is a fabulous place! I forgot, the hotel is called Amanjiwo.

Coming back to Yogya

Back to reality, however, and we reach our driver to return to Yogya, then will give him a tip because we returned later than expected in the city. After a swim in the pool, Paul and I go out to find information for the tour to Bromo. In the station, we do not understand anything of what is written on the billboard and we conclude that the train is perhaps not a good idea. While we are considering various options, a guy approached us asking (as if she could read your mind): "You want to go to Bromo?" Eh eh, how it has made a guess ... Well, easy, I think that 70% of tourists to Yogya proceed with the trip ... a trip to Bromo Among the other in Indonesia is really easy to move from one place to another, there is always someone who will offer you: "Hey Mister! Transport ?"... Just then negotiate the price and you're done. The package, which offers us the guy who works for a travel agency, includes, for Rp 250,000 per person, transportation to Bromo in a minibus with air conditioning, a night in a hotel near the volcano and transported to Bali (Denpasar Lovina o). Obviously the contract a couple of changes to the package and so we agree that we do leave at Pemuteran, on the north coast of Bali (Lovina hour before), in exchange for sleep in a nice hotel (the Lava View Hotel, which was recommended to me by several passengers). Of course not everything will go as we had expected ... but do not know yet, and when you visit us at the hotel the same evening will give him our money, hoping to see get the minibus on the morning after ... At the hotel that you are feeling a little 'offended because we have not taken the package from them, but I explain that I wanted to sleep in a hotel that they are not brought ... Vabbè, let stand, I am offended, and smiles gave way to a good muzzle. I regret a lot ...
To celebrate our trip we go from Superman, the specialist of the banana pancakes, strongly recommended by the Lonely. The waiter there is the usual routine questions from Indonesia: "Where are you from? Where are you going? How long have you been in Yogya? etc., etc. ...
Bracket: Rd Malioboro in the day before had tried to make another smart after "interrogation" (usually the reply "Italian" begins the list of all the players they have known that "Baggio, Maradona, etc. .. . or the answer: "I arrived yesterday," you are offered a list of possible hallucinatory excursions to be done the next day) and we were declared in Spain, but to our great surprise we had the guy replied in perfect Spanish! Later, with others had tried with other nationalities but we thought ...
Anyway back to the waiter of Superman, we arrived at the fateful question: "Do you want to go to Bromo?" and we announce that we have already organized the trip with a guy, he asks us what we cost and demoralize us when we announce that it is too condescending, and that the same thing he would have asked only Rp 200,000 ... Ok, maybe we were scrubbed ... All right, no matter ...
We leave you to stroll through the streets of Yogya, we return all'irrinunciabile market where Henry buys a shirt is very "local" for 3 euros and absorbed a little 'air pollution in the middle of the casino to Malioboro Rd A' infinite number of motorcycles parked on both sides of the avenue, becak parked a little too 'everywhere, where the drivers are all more or less a nap and then cars, motorbikes circulating on the avenue, in short, apart from consuming only becak "human energy" is a real tragedy for the lungs! I begin to feel the effects of time and fatigue. Are 18 and we are standing by 3:30!
After an hour of sleep in a hotel, I wake up totally rimbambita so that it seems to me that morning and I am going to give me a shower, when the realization that just 19! I can look outside and putting on something for dinner, try this evening in the Café FM Sosrowayan: eat ayam goreng (fried chicken) a little 'dry, with rice and sweet like a pancake with a whole banana and chocolate sauce! And as a bonus we have a pretty big mouse that passes between the legs between the screams of all those who have seen the rush in the kitchen!

THE JOURNEY OF HOPE TO THE BROMINE

We are ready at 9 but no trace of the minibus. I try not to make me come to mind strange ideas (screwed us the money and no longer, we need another half to go to Bromo, etc ...) but at 9.15 the minibus arrives! Yeah! What woman of little faith! We load the backpacks and we sit behind. The air conditioning does not work of course and probably has never worked and we prepare to face the next 10 hours with the windows lowered. In another hotel charge a couple of guys, Italy, Turin: Helena and Mauritius, after 10 minutes of exchanging pleasantries we discover that she was a companion school to witness the wedding of my husband! Increddibbile! As for Mauri, has a friend in common with Henry!
And so lively chat for the first 4 hours. After a while 'we begin to understand where we are in a minibus too small for us 6 + bags without air conditioning, but this would not be a problem if the air coming from windows that were not super-polluted! Discover that we have the hands of black nails, skin unta and nostrils filled with carbon monoxide! Outside there is a terrible traffic! I would not have ever said but separates the road from Yogya Bromo is worse than the A4 in peak time! Unfortunate that there are only two lanes for both directions of traffic and overtaking are made under the worst conditions of safety, the more times we hear of the truck while touching the death we see in our faces when we are passing a column of cars, hidden behind a bus and that we see at the last minute when it falls is coming to a huge truck in front with very little room for fall too! ... Well I leave you to imagine the urli of fright! And the driver who ride ... We repeat "Hati You!" (attention!) and he laughs ... Vabbè, if he is quiet, tranquillizziamoci us!
Lunch at 13:30 on a "motorway of Indonesia" where for a few rupees to eat chicken curry with vegetables and rice. When we are ready to share, we see our traffic driver on the wheel and more precisely on the brakes! After half an hour is still there with his hands full of grease to try and repair we do not know what. The sun is burning, it's unthinkable to put a little 'sunshine and then we're good to look good on our little man who makes it to fix everything. Hopefully! We're not even halfway. Start. The situation does not improve, there is much traffic and not ever cross uninhabited areas, is what strikes me more, there are houses and people on the edges of the road all the way ... I thought that to see green landscapes and immaculate I wrong to big! When beginning to get dark but there is one huge mountain ahead of us, whose summit is shrouded in clouds, the volcano that's thinking! From the photos I saw on the internet I think Semeru, the largest of the volcanoes of the natural park of Bromo. Finally we arrived, we think! We do not do more, we are destroyed by fatigue and smog swallowed! We're black! I never had the nails in that state, we lost a few years of life probably! Our driver is ingesting coffee from a plastic bottle and seems to cope well, almost 10 hours that are driving! We are a little 'and ask if you feel well, he answers us so with a big smile and another sip of coffee ... Unfortunately after a while 'we understand that we are away from the shape of the volcano, and we're going in a completely different direction! We do not understand ... Yet he had to be, there are other large volcanoes in this region! We ask what is missing, he replied 2 hours! What? 2 hours ??!... We are very discouraged ...
In any case, the driver was clear after 2 hours we are in Probolinggo, but is not over! We need to get off, unloading and change minibus, after a briefing in the mini tourist office of Bromo, where we buy the vouchers for the rental of a jeep the next day. I do not know whether it is compulsory to buy there but then we have little desire to do stories. The employee explains that there are two options: walk up to Bromo from the hotel and wait for the dawn to the brink of the crater, or go with a jeep up to Mount Penanjakan (2706 m) where we have the best view on ' huge caldera of Tengger wait for the dawn and then go back to Bromo for scale, finally returning to the hotel for breakfast. Obviously, we choose the second option! And after a little bargaining, pay Rp 70,000 a head for the jeep. With hindsight for me this is the best solution for those who want to enjoy this spectacle of the highest nature. Later at the hotel will hear a couple who wanted to make the entire journey on foot. E 'da pazzi ... To arrive in time and see the sunrise from Mount Penanjakan should start in the night perhaps ... Some Indonesians him off (maybe even for conflict of interest because the rent jeep!) And end the brave couple decide to rent you a jeep! When we see them on the morrow, will prove very satisfied with their choice!
Anyway i bought the voucher boy tourist office says that we must now change and minibuses that will take another hour to your destination! We are exhausted! Are about 20 and we are in the car from 9:30! I think it is the most incredible journey I've ever done in my life! It takes strong nerves and a strong motivation to resist! After greeting our friend autista climb in the second minibus, which is smaller than the previous! We are literally crushed, and I in the midst of Giorgia zainoni, but we are nice laughs, rather hysterical belief ... When the tragedy ... I see a small unidentified object moving above our heads at high speed on the ceiling of the minibus, when I realize that this is a giant cockroaches put me to scream like crazy! Giorgia ditto! Bestiaccia that moves back and forth on the ceiling and turns hours into the bottom of where they are crushed minibus Paul, and Elena Mauri who is worked up in their turn, however, without yelling (vabbè, the effect the surprise we had!). Paul even try to capture him with a handkerchief, in vain! At this point we cry the driver to stop immediately! That does not make a turn. Enrico, who occupies the passenger seat, turns around and explain the emergency situation! Each movement in the insect causes us hysterical screams of the girls! Henry says the driver what is happening and what is worthy to finally stop, because it is probably more tired of our cries! In the meantime, the beetle has viaggiatore ambush behind the rear seats and there is no more news of him. The driver opens the door and look for (or he pretends to look for) the insect, in vain, and so, quietly tells us that if they have gone! We obviously did not believe and we end the trip with terror that this been more!
But is not over ...

Another surprise

Once in Ngadisari, "download" and Elena Mauri staying at the Yoshi's Guesthouse. We are about to say hello when the driver informs us that at the Lava View Hotel, there is no more place for a group of tourists had booked before us, and we have to sleep here too! I am a little 'angry because I had contracted with the kind of change of Yogya hotel. However we propose to settle in two 'deluxe bungalow. " In fact what makes us see is a two-story bungalow with a small bathroom with no hot water where we should be all 4! I do not know whether it is fatigue or whatever, but I am angry and I say that I have no intention of sleeping in beds by children and me to the shower with cold water (this is a crazy cold!) Because they are not me have booked a room. He does not know what to do, asking me to call the Lava View for me to say that we really have no place and indeed it is. I repeat that in this bungalow in 4 we can not stay and so, after some 'back with two keys and makes us see two very charming cottage with bathroom and hot water. Take them now! Conclusion: we must always insist that in the end give you what you want. And then this was not a whim I could not sleep in the bungalow in 4, not after that journey hellish! Give up the stuff in the room and immediately go to dinner, you tardissimo, Elena Mauri and they have seen that we were in this hotel can not make, however, to reach the restaurant, probably exhausted.
It seems to be in a mountain hut and in fact the climate is, we eat dishes made with potatoes and cheese, but we are in Indonesia and Austria ?!... Our driver will aggregate to our table to smoke and chat and so are his two other friends. Spend so dinner joking with our Indonesian friends! Before collapsing in bed can make us a nice hot shower, probably one of the best showers of my life! Needless to say that color is the water ...

UNFORGETTABLE CHARACTER TO THE PERFORMANCE OF BROMINE

Alarm at 3.30, now we are used and how we pulled robots trekking trousers, shirt, sweatshirt, jacket (rented the night before at the restaurant for Rp 10,000 each) and leave in the night cold. We are lucky, the sky was clear and starry and the moon is full so we can see the mountains that surround us. We are all six point and climb on the jeep that takes us right inside the huge crater containing Bromo and Batok volcanoes. Crossing the Sea of Sand and the shapes of volcanoes there are on our side, making us feel small. E 'a lunar landscape, almost unreal ... We arrive at the top of the view point 2 of Mount Penanjakan at 4:45, a red stripe stands out above the east ...
Within quarter of an hour the sky marked by the most extraordinary colors: orange, yellow gold, pink, is absolutely incredible! I can not divert our gaze from this "painting"! But I speak to the south side of the small platform, where are all the tourists waiting to view the crater from above. The volcanoes are slowly coloring the light of dawn, it's spectacular! In the distance, Mount Semeru erupts dense smoke every 15 minutes, as if it were governed by a clock! Cameras or video cameras are in action, fortunately there are many people and we can see all the changes in the rising of the sun with the different play of light on the surrounding landscape. I can ambush in a small path under the platform and from this vantage point, without any "human barrier" and a few branches that frame, I dedicate it to the photo! At this time, no regret for having done 12 hours of a minibus to get there, the spectacle that is all!
But it is time to return to the jeep and go back into the Sea of Sand to reach the Bromo. We pass near Mount Batok, extinct volcano whose shape recalls the mountain of "close encounter". The jeep leaves us at the foot of a trail that climbs the slopes of the volcano and continue on foot, you lift a lot of dust and ash, we are chasing the boys with small horses, with which there is the possibility of approaching the downward slope more comfortable. One of them is walking beside me for a while 'and continues to repeat "Rp 20,000," to give order and after the contracted price for Rp 10,000 (hey, I was already halfway uphill!) Salgo on horse and surpass my traveling companions were not aware of anything. I recommend it, it's very nice to be swing slowly while having the opportunity to observe the surrounding landscape without tiring and breathing much less ash, and then these children will be delighted!
But it is not finished at the end of the path, there is a staircase of 250 steps to go to get to the edge of the crater! While going up you hear a strong smell of sulfur that we take the throat and lungs, at the top the smell is almost unbearable! All cough! From the bottom of the crater, leaving a thick white smoke and every three minutes and with it the smell of sulfur doubles. There are no guards on the brink of the crater, only a summary of wooden barrier of a few meters with the inscription Bromo Hotel. Quite fun! We must be careful not to walk too much on board at the risk of falling! Fortunately there are not too many tourists and we are all, but I am not going to spend so much time ... Shoot some souvenir photos and come back down. I remember that two months ago an eruption caused the sudden death of two tourists who were stopping on the same scale, I am somewhat 'impression ... The descent towards the jeep is even more difficult because the horses raised a lot of ash and sand and when we are brown!
We greet this place and return to Yoshi's Guesthouse for ourselves a well deserved shower and breakfast. By day this place is pretty cool, I'm re-evaluating a lot, we say that last night I was too tired and angry to cheat the change of hotel to notice. The cottages of wood, very nice (I recommend the Deluxe Cottage nr 1 or 2, provided with hot water, because here at night the temperature drops a lot), are inserted into a rich vegetation and are surrounded by green mountains. It is well, there is an air pure, and we reclaimed after the trip the previous day! We do breakfast at the tables outside on the lawn and it is difficult to fall off when we allocate 9.30 to Probolinggo with the minibus.
This time no "host" side, the tourist office down, collect your luggage and wait for the bus to Bali. Unfortunately, it is almost full and seats are ravvicinatissimi! It seems that they have been designed for children! We must do so 6 hours! Promising! After about two hours we stop for lunch and eat a Kare Nasi ayam (chicken curry with rice) very good for a few rupees.
Fortunately, after a while 'the landscape is changing and we are surrounded by green forests of palm trees, volcanoes, rice fields, here in Asia that I like! I was a little 'disappointed by the first part of the journey from Yogya to Bromo (about 300 km), which I expected not so busy and populated. In contrast, the eastern tip of Java is much more virgin from a natural and much less populated, it is occupied by a national park. When we arrive at the port we stop about ten minutes, the time to pick up the vendors with all sorts of food to sell us! It seems to be a movie, these guys go up one after another in single file in the coaches and show us their goods: fruit, biscuits, instant noodles ... Best of all, make the tour twice!
On the ferry to Bali for the first time we feel very secure and above all we feel very respected, but not as to date, friendly, so there is a kind of paranoia and we imagine a lot of scenarios: while we are here we are on deck stealing backpacks down in the bus, we attacked three or four guys rubarci for the money ... Visitors we have only another 10 more of us perhaps, the rest of the passengers is made up of shady guys who are watching us with insistence. We are regretting to go to Bali. And if it were dangerous? In Java we found well, perhaps in Bali are too accustomed to tourists and we see as the "walking money "??... To complete the scenario, a disco music to the whole volume of Indonesia and an indescribable stench coming from the bathroom (we see some tourists enter and exit immediately! Only one thing left, you see that did not take any more!). Unfortunately, instead of 30 minutes provided we are putting a lot because there is no place to Gilimanuk pier and the sun is already setting. Obviously we have not booked anything for the first night in Bali and we have no idea where to sleep. So take advantage of waiting and consult Lonely: identify a group of bungalows that could do the job in Pemuteran, our destination. I go into the telephone booth of the ferry to contact the hotel but the sfiga want the incorrect number of single Lonely is that the Pondok Sari Beach Cottages! And so, given that the other addresses are all reported in the upper price range, decide who will evaluate the situation upon arrival.

ARRIVAL IN BALI...

At the border the Indonesians are also getting off the bus and checked by the police. We note that one of them is hiding under the seats to avoid the control! Who knows what combination? A Gilimanuk we descend from the bus and go up in a minibus to continue the journey to Pemuteran. In fact we are the only ones to stop first, all others go to Lovina, the rest of the passengers of the coach (most tourists all Indonesian children are probably sellers) continues on the coach for Denpasar. The situation is very critical: the number of tourists who must stay in the minibus is definitely greater than the number of passengers that we would be comfortable and so we are all tight as sardines and backpacks were all loaded on the roof! Hopefully not caschino the streets! I was just a crisis of anxiety because they are crushed in the ranks of the way! It makes a crazy hot, but maybe it's the excitement and the feeling of claustrophobia! We have alerted the driver that we stop at the Pondok Sari Pemuteran.
After an hour we get now is night and we have not understood anything of what was around us during the trip. Pondok Al, I just go down and praying Enrico expect the driver of a moment, and do well because there's no more room! My goodness, where to stay? The driver tells us that he knows another hotel later and we stop there. Ok ... When I arrive a shot! We are in front of a mega hotel! Only the name makes me guess the price already: Bagus Resort & Spa, Henry and Paul go on reconnaissance while we chat with other tourists, all foreigners. 5 minutes after arriving Paul tells us that we can get the backpacks from the roof of the minibus, I try to ask him what it costs and I answered: "Go To give a hand to Henry, when I left, had already lowered the price from 60 to $ 40! " I fell down, I figured if I miss a treaty like that! When I arrive, they are still discussing the price in a very calm and friendly, came to $ 35, the clerk asks me to sit down and after another 5 minutes we can get rooms for $ 30 including the one breakfast! Then the guy gets up there and shaking hands, smiling and making the congratulations! We !!!... I'll be back running the minibus and announce the news to Paul and Georgia who have finished downloading backpacks. Announce the price obtained with the other tourists, one congratulated us, but I have the impression that others are on a budget are much narrower and I look as if I were crazy! We say that for the first night, we did not have many other choices in this area (less touristy than other Bali) and then after the trip the next day until Bromo we deserve a place of fable no ?!... The rooms are very beautiful, surrounded by a fabulous tropical garden full of frangipani, I dream! Dinner with rice and grilled prawns (we are the only guests, or is it too late?) And then a dwarf! Tomorrow you can finally sleep! Nothing wakes up at dawn!

FIRST CONTACT WITH BALI - THE NORTHERN COAST

Today will be devoted to relaxation, and so after breakfast and a quick exploration of the resort (it seems that the tourists we have only us!) We relax in the small swimming pool situated near the beach, the sand here is black, volcanic beaches characteristic of the North of Bali. Who looks for the typical white beach with palm trees should not be in Bali, at least not on this coast, but we really like, is special. The scenery is especially beautiful: we are in the mountains a deep green and the sea! The garden of the resort is really nice, for the first time since the trip, we can relax and contemplate nature breathing the aroma of frangipani, which I have chosen my favorite flower since we were in the Seychelles two years ago. The water of the pool shower falls from a statue of Ganesh, this is a paradise!
Unfortunately we have already quit this place, because we have already booked last night in another place (when I was drafted by the route planning to arrive in Bali on this day, not a day before, and so I booked a very nice resort in anticipation of the "after Bromo"). At 13 we are on the road to wait a few Bemo or minibus that will take us to Taman Sari Beach Cottages, a couple of miles from here. Here it is easy to move, just get right on the edge of the road and wait for a few steps using public transport. A Bali moving many Bemo, means using the local population, there are also some tourist shuttles' more expensive but faster. Our expectation is short and comes just a minibus burgundy color (we have noticed that on this coast minibuses are all this color), the price is Rp 10,000 in 4, this time no contract because it is ridiculous (1 Euro 4 ). Walk the last 300 meters that separate us from the resort on foot, backpacks on their shoulders, it's very hot, along the dirt road, there are Balinese houses inhabited by large pigs and some blacks that rest in the shade, tied to a pole with a chain .
The Taman Sari is a beautiful, yet more than Bagus, the bungalows are surrounded by a very large tropical garden, with spectacular views of the mountains on one side and the deep blue sea (here the sand is lighter) on the other. Laying backpacks in cottage notice that the bathroom is a room-air (the famous Balinese bath) whose walls, over two meters tall, are made of dark pebbles and plates stacked with precision. I can not wait to get a shower! But it's time to go exploring this stretch of coast, we came here for economic star in a cottage! Same path as before, the same warm and pigs always asleep!
This time there is a means of transport which we define as Bemo full of local authorities. We pay Rp 10,000 to go until Pulaki Puri, a temple. As soon as we descend from Bemo surrounded by women who want to sell us grapes give the monkeys that inhabit the temple. We are told that these monkeys are brave and do not attack. I do not know whether to believe or not, after all that I read about Balinese monkeys! Meanwhile, all wear a pareo or sarong, aided by the women who bind us in a special way around life. In the end we buy grapes. At the entrance of the temple leave a bid and wear the strip of colored fabric required for entering the temples. There is accompanying a young man who guides us and helps us to familiarize yourself with the monkeys in which we distribute our grains very cautiously. We are literally surrounded by smaller macaques that fighting to win a grain! Younger children are tender and delicately cling to their "hands" with our fingers! We understand now that there is a well-defined hierarchy in the flock and the monkeys have the largest priority! We have the world, also we are here alone, there are no tourists and then the temple is all ours! The visit of the temple, perched on a hillside, it is very interesting and from there is a wonderful sight.
Across the street, overlooking the sea, we visit another temple filled with lava stone statues of very attractive and we see a very common scene in Bali, a family is to give evidence of offers to the gods and pray ... More ripasso later when the first temple in front of a van stopped on the edge of the right and two men down to pray at the small altar, after having purified wet on her head with holy branches immersed in water. These scenes of everyday life related to Hindu religion are very common in Bali and for us Western ipnotizzanti.
To return to the resort, take a Bemo again but this time I try to bargain the price for fun: I propose Rupees 7000 against 10,000 applications and accepted! Council to learn the numbers in bahasa to bargain prices, will be much appreciated and you have more chance to get the price you want!
Arrived at the Taman Sari we relax a little 'between the black sand beach and the swimming pool, contemplating the magnificent scenery of the mountains behind us.
Sipping a cocktail at the outdoor bar and a great dinner complete this first day in Bali, fabulous and full of emotions.

EXCURSION TO MENJANGAN ISLAND AND ARRIVAL IN LOVINA

Today Paul and I do snorkelling while Henry and Giorgia try their first draft in this holiday. We booked the excursion yesterday afternoon with a dive center located on the main road. After 30 minutes of minibuses and 30 minutes of boat landings sull'isoletta, very strangely barren. The sea is a beautiful turquoise color here because the sand is very white, unlike the coast. The scenery around is very suggestive, we can see some volcanoes of Java. We do an hour of snorkeling with a guide. Below, a profusion of colors and shapes, corals, fish in hot water! Swimming along the reef, near the "wall", is beautiful but there are very strong currents. After a lunch break on the beach (with takeaway nasi goreng!) Immediately go back into the water but this time for less time because the sea is rough and swimming is not easy because of the current. Before we look back a deer that lives here on the island, it means Menjangan deer!
Taman Sari Al very kindly give us the option to use a bungalow, although we have already done the check-out, to make us a shower and change. It 'time to leave quest'oasi peace and go to Lovina, on the north. An office boy at the reception our backpacks on a cart that trolling with his motorcycle while we followed on foot to reach the main road. Stop a minibus, contract price, we will agree to Rp 60,000 for all 4.
The route is very beautiful and picturesque, we are the only tourists on the minibus and Balinese constantly rising, full of all sorts of things: food, bags of rice, bird cages, etc ... We all smile and we look with considerable curiosity! Three girls returning from school are literally in admiration in front of me and Giorgia! It will be clear for the hair think. Here mothers bring the wool hats with their children, we explain why, makes a crazy hot! The landscape that we see from the windows of the minibus is enchanting: paddy fields, palm trees, houses along the street, deserted beaches, we are pleased to note that we are the only tourists (visible) around. Crossed a small procession of men and women into a temple, but the women, dressed in sarong and lace colored blouses, to bring the offerings on their heads while men wear sarong and white shirts with the typical headgear of Indonesia.
The trip takes about an hour, so we understand also how the Bemo: while rising on the local minibus indicate to the driver or the type that raises the people where they must go, then when they have to shout down the driver who arrived and before declining to pay the amount stated.
We descend to Kalibukbuk, one of the first villages of Lovina. While help us recover our rucksacks from the roof of the minibus, we are already surrounded by some guys that we offer accommodation. We had already consulted the Lonely and want to first see if there is room at Nirwana Seaside Cottages. We are fortunate there are rooms available. Lovina is probably the most tourist place of the north coast but it seems that this year there is a great turnout. Make us see the rooms first, as is customary in Bali, are very nice and comfortable, with air conditioning, there is also a swimming pool and a beautiful well kept garden. Returning to the reception contracted slightly 'lower the price from Rp 210,000 to 180,000 requests. After a refreshing dip in the pool we go out for dinner at Barakuda. Chatted a little 'with the waiter, very politely and eat grilled tuna with some typical sauces.
Let's go to bed early tonight, tomorrow we have to wake up at 7 because we have an appointment with a driver, a cousin of an employee of the hotel, to continue toward Uud. Here, the fact even after, they are all brothers and cousins ... or have a friend who can lead you where you want them if they can not do it!

FROM LOVINA TO UBUD

After breakfast, we are ready at 8 and expect our driver, who is punctual. Before his arrival I make a leap up the beach to see the view. Even here the sand is black and the beach deserted at this hour there are fishermen who are returning and some men who are chatting. Our driver, Ketut (in Bali are known only in 4 ways, so explain later) was 33 years and has three children. Our route includes a stop at natural hot springs (air panas) in Banjar, lakes Buyan, Tamblingan and Bratan, up to Ubud, the artistic capital in the center of the island.
After half an hour we arrive at Banjar, where there is a very lively market that cross. The driver then leaves us close to the sources. You pays Rp 4000 per head, are the public baths, immersed in a paradise! There are two pools of water sulfide and we must put the mouth of the stone statues that throw hot water providing a pleasant massage. There are no other tourists, after a while 'some Indonesians arrive, we notice that massaging the body with a small stone, to form a peeling. In another tank, empty the water falls from a height of 3 meters by providing a vigorous massage! After an hour we leave, it is difficult to leave this wonderful place but we must continue our journey ...
Let us return to the jeep, Ketut is there awaiting us. Initially we had a little 'fear to leave backpacks in the car, and then rubasse them away or you and someone else rubasse them? ... But we realize that this mistrust was totally unfounded and no one has ever tried to rubarci something during the trip.
On the streets, towards the center of the island, along the beautiful green paddy fields of an intense, almost fluorescent! Seem unreal! Ketut stops every time you want to take photos, so the street is completely empty. After some 'stops in front of a bar along the road because it is his friend and has a beautiful sight, says the Bali Panorama. In fact, the view from the terrace is great, right on the green rice fields and a village at the bottom of the valley. There are no other customers, it is very relaxing, especially after our baths to the sources. But those who see behind the counter? The maids of Barakuda for Lovina! The place is his. What a coincidence! Lime Juice a drink made on time, in the meantime, the sister of the boy leads the typical sweets. The first, which are called Dodol seem long soft candies, wrapped in a leaf of dry corn, he explains that it takes 4 hours of preparation, are made with sticky rice, black rice, sugar cane and peanuts. They eat, they are very good! We need to remove the peeled leaf like a small banana. They buy a dozen, we are told that you can store and our goal is to bring them in Italy (see below what happens in Sulawesi ...). The second specialty is a plastic bag containing the grated coconut, salt, sugar, peanuts, rice flour. It consumes swallow the entire contents of the bag, it is very good too!
After an hour of pure relaxation and sincerely, we start to stop after a while 'to admire a waterfall. To get there it takes a walk down to half an hour in the forest. When we are there to get a gabbiotto where we have to pay Rp 4000! Eh eh, smart! The cast is powerful and fortunately there are very few tourists and no seller (as we had said Ketut) so we enjoy the show in peace. The rise is less fun!
We resume our journey to the interior of Bali, the landscape becomes more mountainous, the sky is cloud and is very cool, it takes the sweat out. We stop to admire the lakes Buyan and Tambligan from a platform at the edge of the road. No noise, no tourists, only pick-up colmissimi students who cheerfully greeted us when we go next!
At lunchtime we stop near the lake Bratan, on the other side of which stands one of the most famous temples of Bali, the Puri Danau Bratan. As I already noted on many postcards and photographs, there is always a black mist and low clouds that give the place an aura of mystery and mysticism. There sdraiamo five minutes in a beautiful green lawn in front of the temple, but escaped in a hurry when we approached a young man with a python around your neck! We discover that a few meters from here there is a little "stand" with exotic animals where people can be photographed, not for us, thanks!
Let us go and this time we do not stop until more Ubud, Ketut ago streets of alternatives that allow us to move in the midst of very pretty villages and green rice fields.
We go directly to the Honeymoon Guesthouse I had booked via email a few months ago, on the advice of an Italian girl. I'm not disappointed, the place is charming, the hotel is located on Jalan Bismar, a street perpendicular to the main street of Ubud, Jalan Raya. The road is not asphalted and its sides start small alleys that end in the rice. Ketut and greet us, we agree with him on a trip the next day. After the formalities and the welcome cocktail, go to our rooms, located in small double bungalow in the garden. Are very different between them, one has the balinese bathroom, outside furniture and pretty much, so since we are here four nights we decide to share the rooms after two nights to enjoy all four of the comfort of your room more beautiful . We give a little 'relaxation in the pool where we are alone and leave to go to dinner. We have not yet arrived on the main road which we addressed by two guys that we offer tickets for the performance of Kecak that is about to begin. Hesitant at the beginning because we had a little 'hungry, we decide to go there because the show is tonight and I just read that the Kecak dance is one of the most moving events in Bali. The show (Rp 50,000 each) is held in the wonderful frame of Dalem Puri, a temple in the middle of the vegetation, the scenery is very refined and dozens of Lucina the temple and illuminate the trees. The vision is magical! The show is very difficult to explain, is to be seen! E 'and are very engaging as hypnotized in front of the chorus of men sitting in a circle, with a sarong and a white square Blacks close in life and a hibiscus flower in your hair, who sings non-stop for an hour verses that resemble "ciak ciak ciak. in a large candelabra lights up the stage and the dancers perform in the representation of the Ramayana (the one we saw in Java). In the end man in a trance walking on the coals! It 'a dance you can not miss if you go to Bali!
Leave the temple, still stunned and go to dinner at the Lotus Café, on Jalan Raya, a perfect locale to conclude this evening. The restaurant is located on the floor of a large temple surrounded by a pond full of water lilies and lotus flowers. Eat sitting on the floor under a long canopy with elevated views over the lake. Environment and delicious food!

BATUR VOLCANO AND GUNUNG KAWI MONUMENTS

Consume a hearty breakfast of fruit juice, tea, fresh croissants, fresh fruit and yogurt, served as a kind used on our balcony (the night before we had completed a form to order breakfast). This is a "plus" of this very popular hotel which has a value for excellent price! In fact, we pay only Rp 180,000 in two.
Ketut arrived with another Ketut which presents as his brother! You seemed! He will be the one to accompany us on our trips if you want. Ok ... This morning we go to the south of Ubud in the village to see the representation of another popular dance, the Barong. I note that there are very few western tourists, are almost all Indonesians who laugh at the jokes squarciagola actors. The Barong dance is a very comical at times, if you understand Indonesian, but also observing the deeds and Mimiche dancers. Here is a far from gamelan music.
Since we are in the area of the villages we visit two handicraft cooperatives of painters, I find a painting that I like but the price is too high and the seller does not want to get off and then give up. Giorgia Henry and instead buy two paintings.
Around noon we head north and we stop to visit Goa Gajah temple, a Hindu with a cave in the middle of the vegetation. The entrance of the cave is the mouth of a monster rock!
Finally we arrive at Kintamani, the country that dominates the lake Batur and the volcano itself. Here the air is very fresh and just go down the car to admire the landscape, we are assaulted by dozens of vendors! We are behind all the time and are very insistent! For the first time we are annoyed and do not know how to get rid of them! The view is still very beautiful, the lava flow on the flank of the volcano is very visible, is the result of several eruptions in the years that have destroyed villages and temple, which was later rebuilt by another party, at the top. Ketut tells us that last year a pair of Frenchmen died climbing the volcano, still active, very dangerous and unpredictable.
After lunch, we go to the Temple Batur, the second most important after Besakih and here we are surrounded by dozens of screaming women that we want sarong rent (but we have already) and sash, the color band tied at the waist to enter the temple . We leave off giving him 10,000 Rp for 4 bands!
Fortunately reigns in peace and we are the only tourists. A woman is to give evidence of offers on various altars, Ketut explains that she is probably doing to build a house and that should give the tender to the house because of his plan to succeed.
In return trip to Ubud, we stop in a plantation of spices, coffee, tea, cocoa and fruits. Tasted a coffee mixed with cocoa and water, very good! After, I enjoy a roast coffee beans next to an employee who does this all day. He apparently very happy to starmi close, I put an arm on the shoulder! Having bought curry and ginger tea to start Tampaksiring where we visit the monuments of Gunung Kawi, temples of stone set in the hill, at the bottom of a gorge with beautiful rice terrace. This place is fantastic and very relaxing, we are alone with Ketut, the sun is just so down is no longer so hot.
When we come back on the road then the country we see two men who are practicing two fighting cocks!
Returning to the hotel we put ourselves in agreement with Ketut to 20.30 for us to bring to the Café Wayan on Monkey Forest Road where dinner. The location is very nice but we are covered because Drizzle this evening. Let's go back to the hotel on foot. "Hey mister! Transport?" we ask some guys sitting on the edge of the road. But we want to walk ...

UBUD MARKET AND BALINESE MASSAGE

We wake up at 8, today the weather is bad. We exchange the rooms with Henry and Georgia and we are divided up to this evening. Book before leaving the van for this evening to go to dinner all'Indus, the restaurant of the owners of the guesthouse, also known as Casa Luna. Book a massage for 16.30.
The Ubud market is very nice and I want to buy everything! Everything is very cheap but it would bargain a lot. For two sarong, the infradito leather slippers, coasters and dishes made with cinnamon, some paintings and a bag to carry everything in the air!
Lunch at Casa Luna restaurant on the main road where we meet with Henry and Gio. Paul returns to the hotel is tired and tired of shopping, I continue until the 16th
16.30 awaits us our Balinese massage, which takes place in a small hut in the garden. We have each a masseuse that covers the body with a sarong and discover as we apply a preparation of fragrant spices and the texture grainy. Do the massage through the cloth and never touch the skin directly. It 'very relaxing and it is difficult to not fall asleep. On the face and temples we apply a dry oil that smells of coconut, it's really nice. The massage lasts about an hour in total, but it is not finished. The best part comes with a bath of spices that we do in the bathroom outside of our room. In the tub girls pay a preparation made of orange red berries, spices and twigs where we give up a star for twenty minutes after a shower to remove via the preparation that we have on the body and that seems to curry! After all these treatments the skin is our liscissima and we are ready to go to dinner!
The Indus is a beautiful restaurant and the terrace is a panoramic view over the Gorge dell'Ayung. Unfortunately, it is already quite dark and we can only guess the beauty of the landscape. We eat very well, sitting on the floor on cushions around a beautiful coffee table.

2 ON 4 ARE K.O.!

Paul has had the high fever all night and are quite worried. It is not at all well. Giorgia also has some 'fever. We decide to cancel the trip to Besakih that we had agreed with Ketut two days ago. At 8 I go out to warn that we must postpone the trip, is very sorry for them. There we still meeting two hours later, if ever go around in the area. At 10 Paul is not better therefore remains at the hotel, I would call the doctor but he says to wait. Giò is not too bad and so is with us in Gole dell'Ayung. Go down many steps until you reach the river, here is where you get those who are rafting Ketut explains. The climb is very strenuous, it's very hot and I did not reach water. Faccio un po 'shooting with the camera to show them to Paul.
Next stop: the Monkey Forest in the heart of Ubud. Here agrees not to bring food for the monkeys are quite aggressive and thieves, they say. I hide the camera in the backpack and enter the forest, afraid of any attacks by the macaques! After five minutes, however, we see that nothing happens and the monkeys do not seem so bad as we relax a little 'and shot off camera and camcorder. We note however that some tourists are literally scaled by monkeys who try to get food! The forest is very beautiful, there are three temples in it, very impressive. Giorgia began to feel ill again and wants to return to the hotel.
When we arrive I discover that Paul has the fever! At this point we decide to call the Medical Assistance Europ Assistance, I leave my number, according to the procedure but I do not recall! Incavolata are pretty! Nice service!
Around 15 Henry and I were the only ones to stand up and let our two dying in a hotel to go around with Ketut to find a hotel for the next three nights, we would still stay in Ubud, because there are so many things to see and with two members of the group ko we do not know what we can see. Spend all afternoon in search of a hotel, we see at least 15, can visit the rooms and sometimes contracted price, but there is always a problemino: either they have no place for three nights, or give us two completely different rooms, or costs too much, in short order to find the place for us, is somewhat 'isolated from the center of Ubud but it is really nice and only costs $ 25 per night. The rooms are clean, put in a beautiful garden, there is also a swimming pool. Let's go back to the hotel quite destroyed by this tour that we could write a guide about hotels in Ubud!
Paul and Georgia feel a little better ... Paul started to take antibiotics that were brought from Italy, fortunately, because of course its not just a problem of fever! Who knows what made him sick? We begin to think of places where we ate and we are reminded that a few days ago at Lake Bratan we were in a tourist restaurant with a huge buffet and maybe Paul was exaggerating with the "schifezze" (various creams and other colored foods unidentified. ..)
Drizzle this evening, dinner at Café des Artistes, locally managed by a Belgian, a few meters ahead in our path. Eat really well spent Rp 100,000 each.

RICE GREW IN TERRACE AND IN CLOTH

Today Paul and Georgia are much better, before you move in the hotel I go to do even a trip to Ubud market, alone. Here there are absolutely no danger to those who run alone ...
12 Ketut us to take and must take two turns for all 4 with the backpacks. We pay the bill at the Honeymoon Guesthouse with regret, it was just a beautiful place and recommend it to everyone.
Sri Cottages ratih seems to be the only customer and they are all kind to us.
Is it not time to rest, however, and we start immediately with Ketut that leads us to look at Sayan a magnificent panorama of the Gorge dell'Ayung. Here we report the overlook most luxurious of Ubud, with stunning pools.
Cross after some villages immersed in the campaign. All the people are busy in preparing the Galungan, the Hindu festival which will take place tomorrow and will last for the next 11 days until Kuningan. During the Hindu Galungan commemorate the victory of virtue, Dharma, evil, Adharma, and thank God for the creation of the Earth. Outside the house is erected a "penjor", a bamboo cane high and curved at the tip, decorated with leaves of maize, flowers, coconut and a piece of yellow or white garment; the penjor represents the Agung volcano and is also the symbol prosperity.
We are very fortunate to be in Bali capitati at this time, all cities and villages are decorated festively and penjor along the streets are beautiful.
We continue our journey up to Tegallalang where they are present in the rice terraces of Bali's most famous. Unfortunately, the sun is gone and the colors are not bright as I would have hoped.
Then we head to the sacred sources of Tirta Empul where, unlike the sources of Banjar, we do not do the bathroom, at least not allowed to tourists. At this moment we can see the people gather and pray in front of the source, it is very exciting.
On the hill overlooking the temple and the source is the villa of Suharto, the former President of Indonesia. By Ketut try to ask the guards if you can come to visit, even the garden, but we are denied permission.
Let us return then to Ubud where Henry and Giorgia stop at the hotel while Paul and I to continue with Ketut Mas, a village with art galleries. I will absolutely buy a painting. The first time we toured the tunnels we had been too sick to not find anything so we try again today, quietly and without the stress of having to hurry ... We stop in a tunnel where known Ketut assures us that the quality is excellent. If you happen to come into a gallery get to explain the different types of Balinese painting is very interesting. My taste directs me to the paintings with colors in shades of green that depict scenes of everyday life, in rice fields or in temples. One in particular catches my attention, it is absolutely wonderful and very different than the other, represents the Barong dance in a temple in the midst of rice fields, is rich in details and colors very carefully, it soon becomes clear that is one level top. The salesman told me that it costs $ 1900 and has been exhibited in an exhibition in New York! Front of my stupor immediately drops $ 1,000, but it is still too much for our budget. She says it was painted by a master who is now retired because no longer able to paint, this was done in 1999, actually in the corner is the signature with the date and the inscription Ubud, Bali. Contract few minutes, joking a little 'and we get to 600, then 300. My final price is $ 180 but does not accept. Then distract attention from this picture, and displeasure with another individual. The bargaining is much simpler: from $ 250 to $ 70. Before the speed of acceptance I tell myself that I could still ask for a discount but that is good! While I may pack out of the gallery, chat with other committed, we had taken at the beginning, while above our heads fly beautiful kites making a noise in particular ... I see the guy just bought the picture and say that in fact I wanted to take another but that his colleague did not want to accept my money. I then asked what was the context and my money. When you see the picture just says it is the most beautiful in the store! I will say that the $ 180 offer, we think about, look at the initial price written in pencil and asked me again a little effort, they will be $ 185 at the end asks me to wait a moment because it has to go to call the artist to ask him if you agree! After just smiling back and tells me that is fine ... I do not believe for a moment more it off: they have finished off the other pack picture I have already paid. All right, take the two and this will be the birthday present for my husband! And so dismantle the frame, rolled up the canvas and also this picture pack! At this point I have to carry them around for two more weeks! Speriamo in bene! Let's go back to the hotel, soddisfatissimi, it is a beautiful painting!
Dinner at Gajah biru, restaurant with Thai and Indian cuisine, very good in a fascinating context. We are virtually alone!

GALUNGAN DAY

Paul is not going well but we leave this for a long trip with our Ketut that will touch the mother temple of Besakih, Tirtagangga, Pandang Bai, Goa Lawah and Klungkung.
It 'a wonderful day and you can breathe an air of festivity around. Along the streets of dozens of beautiful women dressed in colorful walk on the head a tray full of fruit pyramid located so very graceful. Even today the men wear their party dresses, mostly white with the typical headgear of Indonesia. E 'a profusion of colors and joy!
A Besakih there is hardly anyone on the parking, we are the only tourists at this time of morning. Like a script, forcing us to take a guide after trying to make us pay up to 10 euros a head! Since we knew we were first informed of this attempt to unwary tourists and so the contract that we take a guide, but for 6 euro in four! Immediately accepted, however! So be careful if you are required to sum over, making you see the log that the tourists who have gone before you have donated even more money! It 's fake, or the tourists before you were a little' naive ...
The temple is situated at the foot of the volcano Agung which is unfortunately shrouded in clouds.
Unfortunately, Paul began to feel sick and sits on the stairs while we endorse the various temples. I am quite worried too and I do not enjoy the visit.
Has moments where it is therefore better to continue the trip to Tirtagganga, famous for its beautiful rice fields and very extensive Royal Watergardens. It 'a very pleasant place, and today is full of Balinese who make the picnic on the grass and children who are swimming in the pools. For lunch eat a small restaurant where the best to not look at the conditions of the kitchen. Today, Coca Cola for everyone to kill the bacteria ... Next to our table we see two foreign women, apparently mother and daughter, accompanied by two Balinese. The mother has especially with one of the two and immediately understand the situation ... eh yes, there are only men who seek the company of a young Asian, the opposite also happens. The situation there seems even more morbid as it all takes place under the eyes of her daughter, who seems not to be with another guy ... that squalor ...
The journey continues towards the coast, Candidasa pass, ugly, stop for a moment to Pandang Bai, a beach on the east coast, from where ferries depart to Lombok and Nusa Penida. I do not want to frighten those who must take one of these ferries but in allucinanti! Pieces of rusted iron that float ... The best beach I expected from what I read, it's nice but are worth the glance especially colorful boats of fishermen laid on the sand and children playing football shouting happy. I chat with them and snap some photos, like all Indonesian children are excited to be portraying and make a lot of scenes in front of the camera! Without asking a single rupee.
Goa Lawah is the name of a sacred cave full of bats! Ketut tells us that 8 months ago, the sacred snake who lived the cave and died a few days later there was an earthquake in Bali. So they had cremated, as if he were a man, to appease the anger of the gods because they were convinced that the earthquake had occurred because of death of the snake. Listen carefully to the words of Ketut with a touch of skepticism to these beliefs. Tells us that a man was in meditation in the cave for two days. Given the number of bats do not know in what state they might be out!
We continue our journey towards the final stage: Klungkung to visit Kertha Gosa, a pavilion surrounded by water. At this time of day, with the light of the sunset is very suggestive. Ketut is confident with us and speaks of Karma, reincarnation, cremation. Tells us that for a very important Hindu cremated their loved ones to accompany them to the afterlife and make sure a good karma. Tells us that some ago was due to marry soon after the death of his mother at home because there was no woman and only women can give offers to the gods!
Tonight we have some difficulty finding a restaurant open because of Galungan, in the end eat at Dirty Duck in Monkey Forest Rd have done almost everything we eat and what has remained in circulation.

CURIOUS OBJECTS AT MENGWI AND SUNSET AT TANAH LOT

Ketut today comes a little 'late because he had a meeting in his village that has lasted longer than expected, is confused in excuses. Hurry few things the Internet café in Jalan Bismar a couple of phone calls at the Jimbaran resort and in Tangkoko Reserve in Sulawesi, then unloading the mail my parents ask me what is our program in Sulawesi in order to meet and I read the mail of Freddy, my contact for the cottage to Siladen ...
Finished everything we go to Mengwi, west of Ubud, where there is a beautiful temple situated in the middle of a pond full of water lilies. The place is very beautiful but yet feast day we are surrounded by thousands of Indonesians! The first impact outside the gate of the temple is impressive! A human tide that moves by foot, by car, motorbike, scooter in, close to us passes a scooter with 5 members of a family! We are the only tourists and we become the attraction of the day for dozens of Indonesians! We all welcomed us look, laugh, speak to us, we obviously do not understand anything and we try to translate from Ketut, very diplomatically that we do not reveal the exact phrases in our opinion! We suspect that some will take a little 'fun, but not maliciously so we laugh!
We came hungry and so we are going to find a place to eat. Since Paul was wrong, Ketut is concerned to find a restaurant and tourist office at the end make a nice detour back on the road running due north, towards Lake Bratan, without notice, however, there! Lunch Buffet (just for tourists) do not satisfy us much except that we do not see at Ketut who thought of us a favor.
At this point we go directly to the temple of Tanah Lot on the west coast, to admire the famous sunset. Just before we arrive at Le Méridien stop where we let in and turn our will. From the Green golf enjoy a beautiful view over the temple, some who have chosen the very best place to build the hotel ... Having taken a look at the pool with fake sand beach (!), we reach Ketut we waited outside in the car and we go to the temple. Here, for the first time since we are in Bali, you notice the massive presence of tourists, the driveway leading to the temple is an obligation between stalls and souvenir t-shirt, which seems a little 'squallido Having known the Ubud market.
The temple, the most famous of Bali, the temple is a marine and is perched on a big rock, discovered at low tide, as at this time. Only Hindus can access to tourists and is only admire it from below. These are the days of Galungan and we can assist in numerous processions of Balinese in ceremonial dress lead tenders on top of the temple. It is very impressive ...
Waiting for the sunset joked with Ketut and do some shooting with the camera while he makes us his "show" and said "my Mother!" Giorgia and as Henry has taught him! He is at pains to take a picture with us and ask a guy with a Polaroid to capture so our friendship. Soon after, it makes us write our names on the back of the photo, not to forget. We are very touched by this gesture of affection.
The sun is setting and it is time to put himself in position to take best picture. I therefore move towards the east from where I have a perfect view on the temple, with the sun behind. There are already dozens of tourists with rocks placed on camcorders, digital cameras, reflex, etc. ...
The sunset is very nice though not spectacular as I would have hoped. The tourists, slowly go away, while the locals get ... While we go away, the sky is tinged with orange, then red, finally the rose. Yes, it is spectacular, but now we are in the car on the road to Ubud. We put a little 'more than an hour to get there. We changed quickly and we suffered a dinner, at Gaya, a beautiful restaurant in the midst of rice fields, a little 'out of Ubud, with a private gallery of paintings and ceramics. We discover that the owner is Italian and we are groped by the pulp, which is excellent! The mission also try to Ketut, that this evening has been with us for dinner, even if not eating. Makes a face somewhat 'strange when Giorgia presents the gnocchi with a fork to gorgonzola! We can not tell if he likes or not, he very diplomatically, no comments ...

ULU WATU AND ODALAN AT JIMBARAN TEMPLE/ 1

Today we leave for the south of Bali, Jimbaran direction. Us to a friend Ketut who could not bring it today at 11 should play the Gamelan in his village (he is the head of the players Gamelan). In Ubud we pause a moment in a pharmacy in order to buy milk enzymes, which obviously do not have. But we discover that in a refrigerator, there are bottles of Yacult, the LC1 local, now we take a bottle to the head! Tonight we begin prophylaxis with Malarone, we need a little rifoderarci 'stomach!
Then we start to Jimbaran, from Denpasar, the capital, where we stop. Already perceive a greater chaos than the central areas of Bali, seen as similar to Java. When we arrive at the destination immediately to request two rooms at the Puri Bamboo, the hotel we had chosen on driving. Unfortunately, most have only a standard room, the other is Deluxe. See them all and two, are very beautiful and luxurious than we have had so far. Even the price is luxurious! 40 and $ 50 per room! We get only a sconticino of $ 5 on the most expensive room, which is certainly different than the treatment received at Pemuteran!
We changed quickly and start immediately with a driver to explore the southern peninsula of Bali. Visit Ulu watu, marine peak temple on a cliff that no one would expect to find in Bali! This place is popular with small macaques spiteful and thieves, according to LP, then hide watches, earrings, photo machines, video room and continue along the path that runs along the cliff. You can not enter the temple if you are not Hindu, but the walk is worth the glance. The landscape is beautiful, we observe from above the waves that break regularly on the rocks, creating a large crash. This coast is famous among surfers but for now we do not see, perhaps on another section not visible from here.
They spend a few minutes and we realize that the monkeys are not so dangerous, nor thieves and pulling out of our new photographic arsenal.
Just relax, we are witnessing a scene worthy of Paperissima: a Japanese girl you steal her bottle of water from a small macaco fast that escapes, and if the whole school! Broke out in laughter while the baby cries, we do not know whether to fear or theft of water! Another monkey stole a hat. A pair of Indonesians, who understands the business that could derive from these thefts, launches of peanuts to macaques that miraculously let the socket and thus can recover the stolen property in exchange for a nice tip I imagine!
After the tour around the temple, we go to lunch at Top Rock Café that breathtaking view on the cliff and the beach sand where some tourists are roasting. The surfers are all there, off the coast, where the waves break against the reef. Judging from what we see, are not very good .. A guy who crossed the bar, his back was completely ripped, is not a beautiful spectacle!
We offer lunch to our driver and we enjoy a 'relaxing on this terrace. The Café also offers rooms in small bungalows, at prices not so low but the location is very beautiful.
We decide to go to make a turn in the "gilded ghetto" or Nusa Dua, where there is a high concentration of luxury hotels. There is a guarded entrance to access the entire area and in our view, this place is dreadful! We would have liked to see more hotels close by, out of curiosity, but they are all from the road ambushes and do not see anything. I decided not to waste time to see this sort of Disneyland hotel, we return to Jimbaran. We all agree that those who sleep here will never have the same perception of who we had stayed several days in Ubud and in the north, could come into contact with the real Balinese life.
On the streets we come in a procession to the Balinese temple of Jimbaran, the driver tells us that today is the Odalan of the temple, that is his birthday and then there's a big party. Tiredness passes soon, and I decide to see this ceremony. Because the only question to go, we leave Paul, Henry and Georgia to the hotel and continue with the driver. Before leaving, I advised to wear long clothes that cover the arms, I do in two minutes and come back in the car, armed with camera and camcorder. The driver can not just leave me in front of the temple because the road is closed to traffic, so I continue walking, I'm already ecstatic: dozens and dozens of men, women and children, you are going to the temple in party dresses, women bring on the head of silver trays with compositions spectacular pyramid of fruit and flowers. Within the temple, after asking permission to a Balinese and remain on the street in amazement. Before me is a true framework, colorful: all men are dressed in white, women in dark pink, are all sitting on the floor facing the altar and "Meru" of the temple. In the background a beautiful sunset that tinge the sky with pink and highlights the many "penjor" arranged on the occasion of Galungan. Before the first file, there is the Barong, a good creature. On the left side of the Gamelan players will perform music in a heady, near an altar where they are placed all the trays of offerings.
A man speaks to the microphone and recites a prayer, while another crowd sprinkle holy water. All drop or raise their joined hands above their heads in unison. It 'really exciting.
It seems that my presence does not cause all the locals that I look and welcoming smile. Children will enjoy a world when you realize that you can see the small screen of my camera! Ask permission to photograph the women in their colorful and beautiful clothes willingly accept them, and placing themselves in laying. Visitors are very few, perhaps 5 or 6, all eyes pods before this very impressive ceremony.
Time passes quickly and after an hour, I decide to move towards the hotel, it became dark, and tonight we are going to eat the grilled fish on the beach at Jimbaran. Before looking for means of transport, buy some bananas to market set up outside the temple, negotiating in bahasa Indonesia, which holds me many compliments and appreciation by the committed! Unfortunately for me there are no taxi because the street is closed to traffic and I believe that our hotel is quite far away. I start to worry a little 'but soon find a solution: a call to alert employees of the barrier of the road as I do to return to the hotel and so one of them offered to accompany me, in car! It 'pretty funny, I have never climbed to the car with a stranger, but something tells me that I can trust and I enjoy the warm evening air while sfrecciano along the main street of Jimbaran! Once at the destination I leave a tip of 10,000 Rp. I would have left something off (the path was really fast at the end) but he does not have the rest ...

A NIGHT IN JIMBARAN

After a quick shower and a small story of what I saw on Paul, go out to dinner. Jimbaran is famous for the fact that you can eat the fish grilled on the beach. Choose one of the restaurants that inspires us more, we choose our fish, contracts a little '(1 kg of tuna = 3 Euro!) And we sit foot in the sand around a plastic table with lighted candles. Very romantic! I look around: there are tables, candles and tourists as far as the eye! But the impression is not bad, indeed, is very particular, the lights seem to those of thousands of fireflies. Add to this framework the noise of large waves breaking on the sand and is perfect! We eat very well, the fish is fresh and is accompanied by vegetables, sauce and the usual white rice. To contribute further to its group of musicians is the square in front of our table and runs in two songs of legendary Eric Clapton (Leila) and Santana (Black Magic Woman). I must say that this dinner is the perfect conclusion to this visit Bali and we are a little 'to the melancholy of having to leave this wonderful island the next day ...
Fortunately, the journey is not finished! Let's go back to sleep in a hotel, tomorrow we take the plane to the Sulawesi ...

ARRIVAL IN SULAWESI AND 3RD TYPE ENCOUNTERS IN THE JUNGLE

Alarm at 6'45. After breakfast we leave for the airport, which fortunately is only 15 minutes by bus, it's also why we chose to spend the last night in Jimbaran.
Our flight leaves at 9'15. After the over Gunung Agung, which we had seen from the earth just wrapped in clouds, we make a stop in Central Unjung Pandang in Sulawesi (the new name of Makassar) after one hour. The landing is the chills from the plane makes a curve near the Crazy Mountains before returning to face straight on the runway. I must say that the landing was perfect, however, only one had to Amsterdam with Alitalia!
The small airport does not offer much to tourists and we understand now that we have left Bali. Here there are many Muslims and most women wear the colorful tchador head. Let us go to Manado, North Sulawesi at 14'15. From above we have already seen a luxuriant vegetation and a few volcanoes. The landscape reminds me of Malaysia with almost all these coconut palms.
At the airport you will not find the trolley, there is, in fact there are many carriers that offer their services against some Rupees. Since we need a taxi to go to Tangkoko National Park, our first goal, expect to get in reconnaissance and go! I immediately meet a nice young man and very dark-skinned wondering if I want to go to Bunaken, meta 80% of the tourists arrived in Manado imagine. The answer that I want to go to Tangkoko at Benteng Resort (which we identified via internet in Bali). Of course now says Ok and go to look for other traveling companions after having taken the money with the cash dispenser at the airport.
It takes two hours to reach the Tangkoko, I just saw what I had read on the LP, but he assures me that they redid the road and that we need less. I ask him if knows a certain Freddy (an Indonesian boy who lives in Bunaken and I had contacted via email by Italy to find accommodation Siladen. I had been named by a Swedish traveler known on the forum of the Lonely Planet). Fers-this is the name of the boy who has taken at the airport-bursts out laughing and says it knows him well! You seemed! They work together at the bar of the Living Colors at Bunaken.
The road is actually quite nice but our driver is a daring and I seem to be returned to Java! The landscape is completely different to Bali, there are thousands of coconut trees, small villages and many churches. The region of North Sulawesi, in fact, is a Christian-dominated (75%) against 20% of Muslims and only 5% of Hindus, concentrated in Manado. In Central Sulawesi Muslims are more numerous and have been involved in several bloody battles against the Christians (in 2002 was killed in a tourist region of Poso). Reassured me saying that everything is in the North quiet.
The second hour of our journey is very beautiful, we pass in the middle of a dense vegetation and see some volcanoes, the road is always close and there are many holes. At some point, we see before us, some hundreds of meters, due to local Bemo overflowing, are actually two pick-up and people are sitting on the boards of wood discovered in the back. In the midst of the dark sides, we see two Western tourists, even younger than they are able to understand and admire their courage in facing this journey in such conditions! When one of Bemo stops, we will overcome it when I see that the two tourists who are coming down in front of Mama Roos (one of the Spartan 3 homestay Tangkoko) are ... my parents! It reminds me a shot! Well, to tell the truth, I knew that they were traveling in Sulawesi and had alerted via email that we have arrived at Tangkoko more or less on this day, but I did not think the pecking so, in the middle of the jungle! Needless to say, do the locals do, and our two drivers when I say that I have! After the greetings, let us appointment for later, as a way to make the trip in the evening in the park, to spot the Tarsius Spectrum.
We are continuing to Benteng Resort, located a few km later, after the village of Batupukih. The road goes over a hill and is increasingly bruttina, not asphalt. In the end we arrive in front of the "Resort": The Pope is a collection of huts in the middle of the Spartan nothing ... There is a black sand beach and around the forest! Get your luggage and (unfortunately for us) we let go our drivers giving appointment for the following day to go in the Minahasa Highlands. Ask the owner to let us see the cottage. Are rather Spartan, with no light or hot water and cost a blunder! When I think about the website I get the nerve! 28 Euro per night without meals, even breakfast, practically a theft in Indonesia! Do not even have a car for us to go hiking and the park entrance (opposite to where we left my) is too far away to go on foot, especially in the dark. We are very perplexed and we feel trapped. Was written on the site that could organize the trips, etc.. But it is not true. We do this to the lady that the other does not even speak good English ... While we are thinking about what to do, the light begins to diminish and as a way to make the trek into the jungle to see the Tarsier is necessary to start at 16, now I know that it is too late! Fortunately there is a jeep with an Indonesian tourist and his driver. I ask if we can take advantage of his driver and the car to go back to the park. She is vague, does not say either yes or no and he goes into a masonry building, which I imagine is the place where you sleep. I have no words! We are desperate! The driver does not speak English and we have to deal with the owner of the resort that does not make any effort to act as interpreter, she obviously has no interest in losing 4 customers! We understand that moving from here now will be very difficult but I am stubborn and I decide to return to the village, on foot if we want! I go to the baggage and start to load the backpack on your shoulder, not realize that what I am going to do is crazy! Walking at this for 2 km, perhaps 3, with the baggage is not healthy, but too incazzata for this cheat! The driver, however, will "wake up" and is a sign of cooperation. I see the note of a well-Rp 50,000 (madness!) And can explain to them that we want to go back to the park where there are other homestay. Fortunately understands and load the backpacks in his jeep! I think the end of a nightmare! I do not know if I could make the idea but the situation was truly the limit dell'inverosimile: a semi-abandoned, no one except us, spartanissime hut, no food, no car, we stopped there, we can not move ... Tipa resort of the course is not very happy, but worse for her, not only had to make a deceptive website!
While we are traveling, my cross, that they were coming to the resort to meet us! To explain what happened and we can load them on the edge of the jeep to go back from where it came! Che ridere! I hung to my car while we travel! Unfortunately, the driver says that there are checks and can not stay so we must leave them there and continue, after having promised that the driver will resume. We see the three homestay: Mama Roos, Ranger and Tarsier Homestay Homestay.

FIRST NIGHT IN TANGKOKO...

We stop in the second where they are also mine. The rooms are very Spartan: a bed with mosquito net, a bath with water and send. But after the vicissitude of the first, there seems a dream. Costs 13 euros per day with three meals included!
Since it is now too late to go into the forest and see the Tarsier, trekking to see the next morning for the 4!
With my dinner: grilled tuna, rice, vegetables, fruit. Let's go to bed early but not sleep for almost nothing! The fear of finding cockroaches or spiders over my head is strong, there is also a wind out crazy and everything is very disturbing! So much so that when the alarm sounds at 3'30 am happy!

MEETING TARSIERS AND BLACK MONKEYS

At 4 we are all ready out of our bedrooms, with trekking trousers, thick socks, long sleeve shirts, my dad and the front lamp ... The sky is amazing, there are millions of stars and the milky way is clear. We begin the walk that leads us in the heart of the forest. We are one behind the other with torches to enlighten us, accompany us three rangers. After about an hour's walk, we hear suspicious noises in the trees. We come close to a huge fig tree and rangers are telling us to sit quietly and wait ... We have to await the return of Tarsiers hunting at night in their hut for the day, that these "figtrees". We are to observe silence in the darkness, ears strained to try to capture even the smallest noise, is a beautiful moment ... At some point, to break the magic of these moments, one of the rangers asked me if I have paper towels because ... has tummy and makes me realize that must go to "get rid" behind some trees ... I am not telling you the laughter with Henry and Giorgia !!...
When he returned, apparently much more relaxed, began to imitate the cry of the tarsiers, to call them. And it works! Shortly after hearing the branches and then move gridolino strange! Suddenly the Rangers sign us closer to the tree. There is a small Tarsier hung to a tree trunk. What emotion! E 'bellissimo! Piccolissimo! With huge eyes! Turn your head 360 degrees, it's impressive! In an instant jump in your refuge, and that the trunk empty. Fortunately there are others around, and we can observe two in a tree. We agitatissimi to attend such a spectacle ... Gremlins seem small, but those kind!
After a while ', when all animals are in your back, we continue our walk hoping to spot the blacks macaques, which inhabit the forest. Unfortunately we do not have this good fortune, on the other we see the beautiful colorful toucans.
After about 4 hours walk, we return to the Ranger Homestay, where we expect breakfast. These are the 9 and we have already done a lot of things! We decide to go to relax a little 'on the long black beach and along the deserted forest. Paul, a little 'tired because it has stayed at all, remains in the room. With my, Giorgia, Henry and a boy who guide us, we go to the beach. It 'really beautiful and very special with this black sand! We have done well to bring the mask because the backgrounds are very beautiful, there is a coral reef close to the edge.
When it sdraiamo to rest a while ', the guide comes close to me and tells me: "macacca, macacca." In a moment I realize alzo shooting how do I collect my stuff. We are in a bathing suit, we quickly pulled infradito and shorts, put away the masks in the backpacks, the towel, the camera and the camera around the neck (... and already seen that Paul is not here, I brought back all and two!) and it crashed behind the boy who has already embarked in the forest. What we do shows in our excitement and unconsciousness: run like crazy in the middle of the jungle, with only infradito discoveries and thighs, we scratched everywhere, no longer fear the sharp branches or insects! In the face of the trousers and hiking shoes worn in the morning !!!.... The adrenaline is high! Finally spotted them! There is a flock of macaques blacks just near us! Meanwhile, in addition to the boy, came two more boys who are very kindly offering to down our backpacks and towels to allow us to take photos without encumbrance. One even went to the beach to recover all the stuff I had left in a hurry ... These macaques are beautiful: with a long snout and skins straight on the head that make them look punk! Li inseguiamo for a while 'but for us it becomes increasingly difficult to advance into the jungle, I notice that you have the legs all scratched! In addition I notice that they grip a little spiders or red ant on the foot! Fa un po 'male! In the end we decide to go back to the beach. This race improvised behind macaques was beautiful and we are still agitated. I regret that Paul could not see them! Fortunately, with the camera I made some beautiful shots that I show it to our return to die of envy it!
The time to do a quick shower with us send it again ready for a new adventure: we were all invited to a feast in the village organized by a wealthy family on August 15 (the northern North Sulawesi is Catholic). We are told that there will be a buffet lunch and there instead of the Ranger Homestay. The experience and accept us now! We perform the route loaded on pick-up of the owner dell'homestay, seated on wooden benches that Balzano every hole! It is quite bumpy but fun! The festival was staged in front of a house, there are benches on the street, a huge blue tent covering the terrace below the house where were arranged in rows of chairs. Several people to speak with a microphone and read what I think are prayers or sermons. Meanwhile the women are preparing a buffet on a table next to us and we can see all the good food that we will be offered. In addition to Coca Cola elongated with water (tap water alas), we find things not so pleasant: ask questions to an English woman who lives here and tells us that there are dishes and dog bat, considered delicacies in Sulawesi! Oddio !!!.... and I who morivo of hunger! Fortunately bring rice, fruit, soup and cakes. We are given a plate with a spoon and when the speeches, we are all invited to eat, people are literally thrown on the trays! There will be at least 50 people! Also under the tent is a large table with the same plates as those who were near us on the road. Indonesian pop music there is a whole volume and under the tent do not feel so the boxes are great !!... My father, very bravely, that dog is tasting bat, out of respect for the traditions and especially out of curiosity! But still not very impressed by the taste of meat ... After a while ', escape, I head out for my top music and emotion that he saw these trays and dog with those still alive who stroll under the tables, waiting for be sacrificed too (!) ... The great thing is that they have so many dogs as pets. I asked one if they ate the dogs, and I replied no, they go to the market to buy ...
Three in the afternoon, my salute, which will stop one day and start with the driver the day before (which we had come to take) to Tomohon, the capital of the region of Minahasa Highlands where we will stay three nights.
After two hours and a half trip (during which all 4 collapsed literally fallen asleep!) Arrive all'Highland Resort I booked by email. Here are some 'in elevation and is very cool if not cold at night! The Resort is very nice, made of treated wood bungalow. Dinner and we go immediately to bed.

MINAHASA HIGHLANDS, AN HALF DELUSION

10'30 to leave for a visit 'to the region, promoted very well by the North Sulawesi Tourism. We are operating independently with little "Mikrolet blue (taxi vans) which pass continuously along the road but leave the station Tomohon only when full of passengers!
I remember once we were in 16 and if you see the size of these mikrolet understand immediately what conditions we have traveled! Not to mention the disco music fired high in the coffers!
Mikrolet I have the destination on the roof so it's easy to find the right one. When we find the premises of the difficulties would help us to identify the means of transport, we are also the only tourists around! You pay according to the destination, usually about 2000 rupees per person.
The first stop of the day: Danau (Lake) Linow, a lake of volcanic origin which has the characteristic of changing color with the sunlight, from turquoise to emerald. E 'molto bello. There are also holes in the ground around the lake from where it comes out smelling sulfur ...
When we return to the terminal of mikrolet to Tomohon, before taking another, decide to buy water and biscuits in a convenience store, located right next to the market. Given that we decide to make a turn, the market is very famous Tomohon ... Next to the stand of bananas, a cheerful lady shows us a basket full of roasted patch ...! Stretched our eyes and behold the counter of bats, all carefully aligned with the wings spread out to attract the ladies are spending cha. Later I see something that I would have liked to see the counter dog roast! Any one completely whole roasted! Make an impression! Click a photo to document, and the boy that if they have noticed, take the dog in his hand and let me see better: it is rigid ... Aiutooo! Escape from the horrors of this market and we lose the snakes and tarantulas, but also the most "normal" with fruit, vegetables and spices ...
Take a mikrolet for Tondo, where the largest lake in the region, a resort of local, sponsored by Lonely placet. Unfortunately, after two hours of street crammed in mikrolet remain very disappointed by the lake, the brown color and not at all impressive ... As to the kind of holiday club which is on its side, is a desolate crazy! There is only one Russian family that is doing the bathroom in a pool half filled. We decide to write to the LP at our back to ask him what a nice find in that place! Eat our cookies and our bananas on a wooden bench and back with another mikrolet. This time we are lucky, there's few people and we can breathe.
Let's go to Hot Springs to Rantepaso says that the LP be inserted in the midst of paddy fields. But upon arrival, another disappointment: the hot springs have nothing to do with what we imagined. It 's just a well of water steaming abandoned in a field behind a little bar where we drink tea waiting for mikrolet we had booked for a half hour later!
At this point, a little 'disappointed by the day and expectations, we return directly all'Highland Resort and take the decision not stop another day. So we have no intention of climbing either of the two volcanoes that are close and we want to arrive a day before on the islands of Bunaken Park.
So the evening call to the MC Homestay Bunaken where we had booked three nights via email to know if they have two free bungalow for the night after, a positive response, the Highland Resort advise that we leave the next morning.

ARRIVAL IN BUNAKEN

Today is the anniversary day of National Independence. Before arriving in Manado, to take the boat, we stop again a few times on the road. The first stop, to the caves the Japanese, it is again another disappointment, there's nothing to see. The second stop is fortunately much more interesting: it is a cemetery with tombs Waruga of Minahasa. An old lady driving us from the stone sarcophagus where the ancestors of these people were buried in the fetal position and on which were inscribed various symbols to represent the profession of the deceased. The tombs are very special and beautiful, all different among themselves, at least this time we made the trip for nothing.
On the way to Manado us 10 minutes to stop Airmadidi to observe a party organized for the day of Independence. Military, schools, all in a parade of great joy.
Finally we come to Manado, a city where there bruttissima the stop! He and a terrifying heat and can not wait to get on the island. Angelina, the girl who runs the Indonesian MC Homestay, we expect the port, which is even more shocking in the city! After 40 minutes of boat arrive in Bunaken.
At low tide, unfortunately the first impression is not good, it seems a beach in Brittany! The sand is not white, but the sea is clean and clear and the boat can see the seabed and corals.
We go to MC Homestay which is located on the beach of the village of Bunaken, near a strange white Church. And 'our first meal: grilled tuna, rice, cucumbers and bananas. I think that in these days ... weight loss Here's the "full board" and you can not choose what you want to eat, except at night when there is a small buffet. But we came here to eat, right?
We take possession of our bungalow rather Spartan. E 'il bagno mainly to attract my attention: a Turkish toilet and two basins full of water with two scoops of plastic: one is to clean the toilet and the other to take a shower. It 'very, very spartan! Besides paying only 8 euros a head with the three meals included, we can not ask for more. The beach is not beautiful but it's a beautiful Bunaken is the coral reef ... unfortunately I can not dive because I have not rented fins, we'll go tomorrow. Henry and Georgia go to do some 'back of snorkeling and enchanted! They also saw a sea snake, I had read that there were so many here!
In the afternoon, while we see the sun comes out my! I am here for two days and sleeping at Lorenzo 2, another group of chalets along Pantai Palisang. Are immersed between the mangrove and there is almost no beach, in consideration of their bungalows are more comfortable and have running water.
To 18'30, after a shower with the send and candle light dinner: there's a lot of stuff even at 20 tonight and we finished. E 'night so we go to bed early, after having organized a snorkeling trip for the next day with the children of MC Homestay. Rp 250,000 in 4 all day.
Room and bathroom company we are two huge cockroaches! Fantastico! ...

DISCOVERING BUNAKEN REEF

After a hearty breakfast based bomboloni (!) And pineapple rent fins and start with small boats rockers typical fishermen. Sail until you get off Pantai Liang, the other Bunaken beach where most groups of bungalows. We plunge ... and we are immersed in a fantasy world! The reef is interrupted abruptly to give way to deep blue and a "wall" of 90 m, famous among divers around the world I knew. Unfortunately, I realize that my mouthpiece water board and I can not breathe! Tragedy! Desperate, trying to understand the problem, in vain, so I ask the boy if the boat can go and get one at the dive center MC Homestay. In the meantime try to keep the bottoms in apnea, but it is very inconvenient. After a while 'the boy reappeared with the boat, but unfortunately without mouthpiece! I propose you to go to Pantai Liang. There on the beach I find a lady that rents snorkeling equipment. Allelujah! I take that mask is the mouthpiece for Rp 50,000 a day.
Unfortunately I lost a lot 'of time with this story and when we come back is now to move to another location. I still had time to observe the beautiful coral of the barrier and hundreds of multicolored fish ...
In the afternoon we go anywhere else on the reef, this time we also see two huge sea turtles, a shark and a scorpion fish! We let the current drag is very strong which gives us the impression of seeing through a film before our eyes! It 'a wonderful feeling! Fortunately, the guys that we are following with the boats re-emerging because when we are very far from the point of departure!
At the end of the day we are bringing up the Living Colors, another group of bungalows where he works Freddy, my contact for Siladen. Unfortunately there is not, tell me who went to Manado so leave a message.
In the evening a dinner will be spaghetti with tomato sauce, served in our honor! Incredibbbile! Chatted while a pair of large French travelers (able to have a backpack of just 6 kg! But how do ???!) check Freddy! Finally after several exchanges via email us know!
There we agree on our transfer to Siladen (the island is facing Bunaken) for August 20.
In the evening we again the company of our two friends cockroaches, began almost get used to more or less ... ...

MAGIC MEETING WITH A SEA TURTLE

Another day of snorkeling with the kids and boats. This time we go along the reef of Pantai Palisang. It 'beautiful and yet different from the other side! Here too we find a current hallucinating! I see a sea snake (white rings with blacks, poisonous!) Inseguiamo and a sea turtle for several tens of meters until it goes back to the surface to breath and dives back into the depths ... The sun's rays are reflected on the reef and recall radiation around us, creating a surreal ...
In the afternoon take a walk in the village of Bunaken, with houses and ordered a large white church with its very special! All the children laugh and greet us on our move!
This evening, chatting again with the French manage to make tardissimo and go to bed at 22, a record!

ARRIVAL IN SILADEN AND RESEARCH FOR AN ACCOMODATION

At 9 the boat Siladen for us to take. Henry and Georgia have decided to remain here because they are doing and diving Siladen we are not sure of finding another dive center.
Let's take my 2 and Lorenzo to depart. The trip is short, not even one quarter of an hour, when we pass over the reef, the water transparent allows us to observe the bottom and even fish! E 'stupendo! When we come to Siladen immediately notice the difference in color: the beach is beautiful with white sand and turquoise water. I can not wait to dive! Unfortunate that our bungalows, the Cottages Monica, booked for us by Freddy, are bad enough without bathroom! Okay, the Spartans, but at least send in a room he had expected. To Rp 100,000 per head per day seems to us too. Moreover the three bungalows are one above the other, one on the back even without sight, and the group of bungalows located close to the Onong Cottages, comfortable place where there are almost only Italian. I am quite disappointed. I am going to ask if they have Onong bungalows but they are free to complete. At the end Paul and my mother decided to go to make a reconnaissance tour along the beach. After a while 'go home, they found other bungalow later, from Martha's Homestay. Spartans are also but at least they stuck to send the cottage, the beach is wider and each bungalow has a balcony. With my mother going to see them, in fact, the bungalows are more detached from each other and the beach is wider, with no resort attacked. The owner, Martha, it shows some inside: more than bungalows are wooden huts, very simple, but all in all nice. The door does not close a key but we have taken the padlocks. The bathroom is a room outdoors on the back half of the hut with a Turkish toilet and two basins with bowls to take a shower and clean the toilet. However, unlike the MC Homestay me as less bleak because the walls are made of straw and a lot of light enters from the outside, and does not seem so bad.
There are Spanish and French on the beach, ask how you can find: they say well, are there for three weeks and we do not want to go! Now on to Martha that we take two cottages and are also awaiting a couple of friends who will arrive tomorrow. Since no gas in the boat, there can accompany up to Monica Cottages to retrieve the luggage and my father and Paul, so let's go back to walk with us but they are two boys to help. Monica, the first lady of the cottage, had already gone to Manado market so do not even see that there we went, even if we had been part of our disappointment and he realized that perhaps there would be gone.
A Siladen, there are 4 possibilities to stay: the Onong Cottages, management Indonesian-Italian, with wooden bungalows with bathrooms with hot running water and, for 45 euros per head per day with three meals, Monica Cottages of mentioned before, at Rp 100,000 per head per day with three meals, the Martha's Homestay, where we go, to Rp 100,000 per head per day with three meals (at the end of your stay agree Rp 80,000), and the Siladen Resort & Spa, operated by the Italian, a very luxurious resort with pool, bungalows in masonry with every comfort, for the modest sum of $ 300 per room per day with meals! We really an exaggeration.
The first day Siladen runs so slowly, between the bathroom and reading in the shade of large trees on the beach. When the sun is setting we get a boat with a pair of European children with backpacks. Landed right in front of Martha. I'm Italian and they live in Milan! They have not booked anything and are looking for a place to stay for a few days. The mission of our experience in the morning and announce the various possibilities. The girl goes to see if there is room to Onong, but as the morning, have to complete up to September, even. So decide to stop them even by Martha and we have company for dinner. Here we eat all together on a large wooden table with benches to sit, in front of the cottage. It 'very convivial. Only the Spanish and the French do not share dinner with us (and then discover all meals), preferring to consume it on their balcony ... Furthermore we do not understand well this trio (two very young, her middle-age ...).
At 22 the lights are extinguished and becomes essential to be equipped with torches if you want to see something in your cottage!

ROBINSON CRUSOE LIFESTYLE A SILADEN

This morning we enjoy a good view from our bungalow to wake up. The colors of the sea are fabulous, with a shade of blue and turquoise that make him want to dive now!
Today will be Henry and Giorgia from Bunaken to do snorkeling and see where we are staying. For the time being still at MC Homestay and decided to come here the next day, after lunch, since they planned to do even a dive I think.
I'm going to do snorkeling, it's beautiful, but without fins I make a tremendous effort because there is a lot of current. Tomorrow rental fins! Let's go to the Cottages Onong but have no equipment to rent, then they take advantage for a Coca bercé fresh because Martha drinks are available fresh only in the evenings, by appointment afternoon! The price of Coca altino is, as I imagined!
Finally, spend another evening with my two boys and Milan, Angelica and Manfredi. E 'is another pair arrived in the afternoon: an Italian gentleman who lives in Singapore and his girlfriend in Jakarta Indonesia. Thus the cottages are fully booked for this evening ... Who knows if tomorrow you a free visa and arriving Enrico Giorgia! It 'a nice evening of talk and laughter and we discover that the Italian gentleman has lived for years in our condominium in Milan and knows very well my neighbors! Incredible!
I begin to appreciate this very life by Robinson Crusoe, with a view of the sunset on the island of Manado Tua volcano is spectacular! After dinner we sit on the soft sand and admire the stars and the milky way, crystal clear! Begin also enjoyed my hut spartanissima, since the first night we slept well, without bugs and without the noise ...

FABOLOUS SNORKELING IN SILADEN

After breakfast I go to rent fins Siladen Resort at birth and then do some 'snorkeling with my father. Here is convenient because the reef is close to the shore, a few meters and we are immersed in a tropical garden submerged. No need to go there with a boat. We see a dugong, a rare species of manatee, swimming close to us and eats algae along the reef. E 'a magical encounter unexpected! It will be at least two meters long and is beautiful! The follow for a while 'until the blue disappears ... After returning to the beach are all very envious of our sight, and my father becomes the one with which everyone wants to go snorkeling!
Today we serve lunch at 11'30! like every day we eat things very simple and fresh: grilled fish, cooked vegetables, rice, fruit.
Immediately after lunch leaving for another round of snorkeling with Angelica, it's wonderful! I never thought of seeing colors like on a reef! Have already been in several places like the Maldives, Seychelles, Malaysia, Thailand, but this exceeds them all in beauty and diversity! We can bring the small clown fish (like Nemo!) And also to touch them! The "parents" are defending very well the little that are still in the anemone, venendoci meeting as to dismiss them! Just like in the cartoon!
We go out of the water up to the Onong and continue on foot towards the right, there is a long beach and completely empty, dotted with beautiful white and pink shells. We enter again into the water, even when the tide is low and we must be careful not to scratch with the corals, giving a few strokes of fins as a way forward. Step close to a polyp and I am a little 'impression! When we return from the beach we spent Martha! We stayed in water for two hours at least! But worth it! Seems to dive in an aquarium.
Meanwhile Henry and Giorgia arrived. As the cottage occupied by the Italian girl in Indonesia is still not free (they spent only one night) we go back again into the water with them to let them see the wonders of the reef. We must enter the water in front of the Onong because there is low tide and in front of Martha is not deep enough. In return, we discover with joy that Martha has prepared a snack with tea and cake! What luxury! The Italian gentleman he goes there and leaves his mobile phone to contact him when we are in Singapore in three days, so maybe I'll see.
Meanwhile, two other guys arrived, the Netherlands, that Angelica and Manfredi had known at Bunaken. We are truly the complete Martha, to his great joy! With Paul we go into a book shop near 8 cold beers for the evening. Yes, it works well here! If you want a cold beer you have to communicate well in advance can bring in some refrigerator until dinner time, because there is no electricity all day!
The dinner takes place in a beautiful cosmopolitan atmosphere: Italian, French, Dutch ... the Spaniards and the French are always in the bungalow of the Spaniards and not socialize ...
After dinner Paul and I want a barrel of life and go to a bercé Caipiroska to Siladen Resort, expensive! The atmosphere is also much more formal and less cheerful that with us! Not regret having chosen the cottage Spartans Martha! On the other day, we found that couples who go on the beach, from Siladen Resort, we look like animals and it seems strange that pity our fate in the huts of wood, it makes us laugh a lot! Given that we are well and we spend only 8 Euro per day against the nearly 150 who paid them!

HOW WOULD WE COME BACK TO MANADO???

This morning we go out together for snorkelling but the current is very strong and with the fins we find it hard to move forward. Let us return to the beach shortly after, unfortunately.
Martha even today we need to lunch 11'30. Until the evening die of hunger! .. The day passes between the sun and dry. I see a poisonous snake a few inches from my mask near the shore and go out to race! Fortunately it is quickly taken away by the current ...
In the afternoon the wind stops and we decide to try an exit for snorkeling. The colors are always beautiful and we find our "friends" clown fish ... There are also a variety of colors, not just white and red, are truly carinissima.
We then inform you for our transfer to Manado for the next day. The situation is not so simple. Martha has no boats available. Ask help to Louis, an Australian who lives here in the cottage, but he does not know how to help. Onong to tell us that their boat is committed to dive and there can make a transition. At the end ask the Siladen Resort, but asks us well $ 75 for 6 people. For Indonesia is a very high price! We also propose to ask a French living on the island, in a bungalow attached to those of Martha, but this only returns tomorrow morning. We decide to wait until the next day and decide what to do.
In the evening after dinner we all to drink a cocktail at Siladen Resort, is always great and the atmosphere is freddina like the other night. We all agree on the fact that Martha is much better, despite the absence of light and water. A bed to be washed after 22'30 teeth in the light of our torch!

STARTING TO MANADO AND NIGHTMARE EVENING

Last day to Siladen, unfortunately. I begin to understand the Spanish and French who are here for three weeks!
After breakfast, we immediately find the French to ask him for a ride with his boat for the afternoon. Agree! The boat party between 15 and 16 and asks us only Rp 150,000 for all (we Enrico, Giorgia, two Dutch, Paul and I, my and Angelica and Manfredi stop a few days).
So we go snorkeling, relax at the fact that they have found a way. Even today, the current is very strong, the fins are not really necessary if you want to finish off! Return spent on the beach! Manfredi and Angelica arrive after 13, went to take a boat trip to spot dolphins that populate the area around Siladen and were lucky: they have seen dozens and dozens! Regret for not having organized this trip we. Unfortunately, Martha has no boats available and they had agreed to a "guy of Bunaken.
After lunch we prepare your luggage and go with Paul to make the last dive to finish my roll of the car and dive to make in my mind once again these wonderful colors.
At 15, however, we have the bad surprise to see the passing of the French boat in the direction of the deep! We call it a squarciagola but not hear, or he pretends not to hear! We are amazed! Eventually, by dint of shouting, the French turns around and says: "I'm sorry" ... He explains that he had seemed that Martha was not in agreement that we bring him in Manado! But it is crazy! If Martha does not even have a boat !!!... Indeed in the morning we had a strange discorsetto we had asked insistently asking what Martha had to do for transportation and that she was authorized to take us, because here we were in Indonesia ec'erano very strict rules, he wanted to stay in Indonesia and have no problems, etc, etc ... But Martha did not have any problem with the fact that we bring him in Manado! But now we are in difficulties, in the evening we have to be in Manado, because the morning after, we flew to Singapore. Stare like a still Siladen to charity, but we can not.
The unfortunate episode story to Louis, the Australian, and he does not seem very surprised, I am part of his suspicions about French. Takes this opportunity to tell me a little 'things on Siladen Resort. I explained that it is owned by the son of the Italian Ambassador in Indonesia and that when they built the resort had promised the population that would also have benefited from their 24 ore/24 electricity and running water, and a small hospital. Unfortunately have not kept their promises, indeed, have also cut down many trees ... and the situation of the population of Siladen is probably worse.
In the end we must resign ourselves to the latter possibility Boat Resort, for Rp 720,000 in 6th
Part in the 17th Suddenly, the Martha's Homestay is empty! Even the Spaniards and the French started this morning by boat to Manado public. After the greetings are starting half an hour late. There is a beautiful sunset, with shades of orange and pink, which distracts us from the fact that our two companions seem to have some mechanical problem with an engine! Thus, we arrive at the port of Manado at night! The mooring pier is another adventure, the boat does not have lights, a guy there with a torch driving the pier! To get off the boat we should make a jump of almost 1 m to reach the wall of the pier, with the fear of fall in the dark waters of the port melmose!
Fortunately we are all safe and sound, including luggage and now expect a few steps taxi. No need to wait a lot, stop mikrolet with different lights and music stromboscopiche full volume. We agree the price for us to bring to Manado Plaza Hotel, our choice, suggested by my. From outside is horrible but the hall is not bad, ask to see the Deluxe rooms, the most expensive for the amount of Rp 150,000 per room, so we think we have at least a minimum of comfort for the last night. We do see three on three different levels. Are quite simple and not very "deluxe" but for one night will do! They have hot water and air conditioning, with the essential moisture Manado.
As soon as we enter into our room, I see a cockroach behind putting some furniture! Good start! I decide not to make me upset and a nice shower with running water reparatory us a great good! Reorganized backpacks in preparation for the flight and leave the 20 with the other guys to go to dinner.
At my suggestion, go to the Green Garden, with a mikrolet. It 'very simple and full of aquariums with fish that seem rather strange rincoglioniti! The food is very good though. I take the Mee Goreng (fried noodles) and chicken with ginger. We put ourselves in agreement with the Dutch pair to see in Singapore the following day. They have a direct flight with Singapore Airlines but we will stop in Jakarta with Garuda.
At 23 we are all in bed. We make it hard to sleep, however, between the heat and the casino coming from outside, with music at all volume fired at 2 am! We resign ourselves to turn the air conditioning and goes a little 'better.
At 4, instead we are awakened by the muezzin of the mosque beside and 4'30 is the reception that we wake up, half an hour in advance! In short, a real nightmare!

STOP IN SINGAPORE

6 to leave for the airport by taxi. I try to buy the latest cards in the airport but they are horrible! At 8, the flight departs, Sulawesi goodbye! Tomohon over and Lokon volcano, which we had climbed ...
After a stopover in Jakarta to Singapore where we start us a real tropical storm! It 'very cloudy and raining! What sfiga! Especially for Henry and Georgia that have not ever seen. Paul and I had already been the occasion of a trip to Malaysia. It 'always a pleasure but to get to Changi Airport, one of the most prestigious in the world I think! E 'bellissimo, with carpeting, fountains and orchids, clean and very functional. Since we have 12 hours of call leave our baggage at the Left Baggage and take the metro to the center, stop by City Hall. Here you pay according to how many stops you make, there are automatic machines, simply enter your destination, and we are given a magnetic card to bring to readers of badge of touch with the subway turnstiles. Technology! When you exit the subway, you can get $ 1 back in Singapore by returning the card, so that people throw on the ground ... Are really ahead of us!
Since the flood (but what is it? Already the monsoon?!) Decide to make a trip to the mall of the Raffles Shopping Center.
Fortunately, when we leave the rain has stopped, however it's very hot and humidity is atrocious!
We do a tour of the main attractions of Singapore, the legendary Raffles Hotel, where, unfortunately, do not get Henry and Georgia because of trekking sandals!, The Raffles Place, Boat Quay, Chinatown ...
I send a sms to Andrea, the Italian-known in Singapore but do not get answered. So we go to where the two Dutch, who are very happy to see us, and we go out to dinner with them in Little India. We carry a mountain of food and we do not eat everything! In addition, Martin, the boy is bad and passes half the evening in the bathroom poor! 20'30 Thus, we salute, we are tired and we must tackle other 12 hours of flight to Amsterdam.
Upon check-in they give us the places in between, terrible ... To deceive the wait before the flight, which leaves all'1'30 sail on the internet in places made available for free at the airport.
We start with a delay of half an hour and I Sprofondo suffered in his sleep and I do not make that case to bring us dinner, so I did not hunger after the Indian restaurant!
I wake up completely after 6 hours.
We arrive in Amsterdam at 8'40 and after a stop in a café to eat some brioche Dutch start for Milan at 12'30.

Thus ends our journey, which began the day before to 4'30 in Manado! We destroyed !!!... but with his head still full of fantastic landscapes, colors and people encountered in this wonderful journey ...