Maldives - a week in paradise

For all pictures and more information, which for reasons of space were not included on viaggiscoop, refer to my personal website:
www.ivanweb.net

 

Male (Maldives). Arrival in Bandos.

The journey is the continuation of Sri Lanka ...

Taken off from Colombo to 15:30 and landed in the Maldives (not on the island of Male in an island, but used only by side-to-airport) after one hour of travel. We deliver to him the tickets and vouchers, and we await the arrival of vessel that will bring fast to our paradise: Bandos Island. Came the speed boat, load our luggage and help us to rise gently. The docking of the small wooden pier, where stop just 2 more boats is spectacular. The turquoise color and transparency of water is beautiful: at last, for the first time since the journey, find a sea worthy rival the one in Sardinia. Descend on circular pier where, in looking at the center, you can admire a magnificent spectacle of hundreds of fish to run empty for the entire perimeter of the pier itself, probably used to wait for something to eat from the tourists.
The wooden walkway leads directly to the reception and immediately come to the right led to the Sand Bar, where we await a further half hour for us to allocate the number of room keys. They came with us a lot of tourists and create some 'of the crowds and confusion. Azema group of us sit all on the same table, and we were only six (I, Stefania, Ambrose and Gabriella, and Patrizia Doriana) since not everyone has chosen to extend from Sri Lanka to the Maldives. Once in possession of the keys, Loris leaves us and gives appointment at 18:30 in the reception room to explain how these services to Bandos and what can and can not do. So we move to our lodgings. "Welcome to paradise" I immediately think. There is really little to make mistakes and miss: there is only one way that makes the tour of the island in twenty minutes and some deviation to cut in half! More than a road is actually a tree-lined street, very studied in every detail and clear: space the look everywhere do not see a single card of candy on the floor (for example stupid). On the right there are the bungalows, arranged in rows, white with small garden in front, very nice and modern apparent. On the left hand there is the beach, the chairs and the ocean, you see beyond the beautiful greenery of palm trees and various fauna typical of the tropics. In between all the bungalows and the sea there will be twenty meters, beautiful! All this appears to our eyes as a complete surprise: it is truly a perfect paradise?
We arrive in our room and also really nothing to say: nice, clean, not huge but enough room to leave luggage for air, a beautiful bed with linens decorated to welcome with fresh flowers, a table, comfortable chairs wood, wardrobe, mirror, bathroom more than fair, even the useful safe with the code to set a client's choice and, of course, the air conditioning. A large window with curtains allows light to the whole room. Outside, the entrance, we have a veranda with two deck chairs, two beach towels, a hook to draw clothes and lots of ecchi water to wash the feet hold up before you join!
Knocking the porters with our bags and leave them a tip, then there's change in an instant and go out to the beach to do our first bathroom. We are just in time to watch the spectacular sunset that came at 18:00 o'clock, with the sun going down quickly under the ocean on our right. Facing the horizon even see the skyscrapers of Male and to our left we see well Kuda Bandos. The view is magnificent and all around there is a quiet and a solemn peace. The temperature is perfect and pure water, not less than 26 degrees almost does not feel the difference into a swim or not. The sand is beautiful, white and fine, and all around is full of palm trees and vegetation that go up into the sea.
After all these fundamental reasons, we request our fellow Azema at 19:30 for dinner at the Gallery Restaurant where I come and Stefania, for a change, ultimi. The room is large and spacious, there are several places but it seems only half-full. We all six systems in the same table in a circle, waiting for the waiter to order a drink and then we throw ourselves on the buffet. Huge, juicy, mitico! I read comments from various forums Bandos (www.Bandos.com) that you eat well, and fully confirm this view.
After dinner take advantage necessary to make an exploration of the island, following the path that goes through the journey. The island is beautiful and full of corners really unforgettable for those who, like us, is to visit the Maldives for the first time. But even Ambrose and Gabriella, who are veterans there were already three times in other resort, Bandos has confirmed that the unique characteristics of its kind: it is larger than the others and eat divinely. There are different types of bungalows, some more rustic and dated, some newer, but all very nice, with front garden, the path with stones to get to the beach, the vegetation and flowers surrounding curati. Although it is at night the street is well lit and you see many wonderful nuances of the place. There is a silence around powerful, interspersed only by all that lives naturally on the island, such as crickets, the sound of the leaves of the trees in the wind, the fringes of small waves on the ocean beach. All this makes the atmosphere absolutely magical and full of emotions, given that the human presence seems to be minimal and that which is perceived not disturbing at all. As I said before, the relaxation and peace are taken seriously here. I see also another of the most interesting and valuable of the island: there are no flies or mosquitoes or insects strange! This is another essential factor to establish a paradise! However, there are huge bats, but those flying so high among the palm trees ....

the story continues, for reasons of space, on www.ivanweb.net

The first impact with the reef in Bandos island

It 'a beautiful clear day and the colors are spectacular. The sand is dazzling for its white color, the sky a deep blue and the sea, even the ocean, divided into two shades of blue. It 'the first time that I see at last the reef so marked: color clear and transparent for the first 40-50 meters from the shore and then away with the deep blue where it sinks to the reef.
Here the sun beats bad and there's even people who do the bathroom with the shirt on him to leave the back deck while snorkelling.
Not seem to be many tourists, we are the opposite of the concept of the crowd and crowd typical example of a beach in Sardinia with us in August or, worse still, for the excellence of that of Rimini. There are no umbrellas for the shade because it shelters beneath the palms, as well are also the beach towels on the floor, since almost everyone uses the deck chairs. Yet, we told the waiter, the resort is full of customers to 98%, with about 420 people and over 400 staff, of which 25 are the cooks! An impressive proportion: there is a person who works for each client of the island. And where is everyone? By Ambrose with a rough calculation on the perimeter of the island and the number of tourists, we discover that they are 40 meters off the beach to head: This one sensational! If all were arranged in the same way, I have 40 meters of beach all to myself before meeting another person, so nobody seems to be no!
As a result there is a perception, no matter where you look around, a sense of peace and freedom that is transformed into relaxing and that makes these islands so famous now I feel inside me! The thought of staying here a week and bored, that I had touched before leaving, vanishes in the face of this intense feeling of being truly in a paradise, for the most natural and a little bit helped and amplified by man, which has the added comfort to enjoy.
Now only lacks a crucial detail to discover: explore the coral reef with its magnificent fish! Ambrose and Gabriella, who are the experts and fans, wearing the first mask and fins and throw the adventure, following the passage clearly visible to the naked eye that leads from diving over the barrier, which has hinted yesterday Loris. Shortly after I also follow them and Ste, by immersing in water calm pleasant temperature.
The impact is overwhelming the first time the glass of the mask opens the doors to the world. Even in the few inches of a large quantity of fish of various kinds run merrily between the strange and intricate shapes of the barrier, from which we look good not to touch. We pulled in step, with a pool that appears suddenly for a couple of meters, then the water returns to low and finally, there it is there, to which I had heard so much and I am intrigued by death: the reef, the vertical cliff that plunges in the ocean depths! Can not describe the emotion, too strong for someone like me who, while not having never seen one, a practice usually snorkelling in the wonderful sea of Sardinia. By Stefania, who is less experienced than me, is a total shock! The sudden sensation of going from a few inches of water at no more see the bottom, a wall in bright colors that fades into the deepest blue that seems to swallow everything, is pure adrenaline. These are the things on which we focus attention on the first few minutes, then comes the second shock: the fish! A vast, an infinite number of tropical fish of various species that swim indifferent to our presence. While remaining still, they come from all over because the steps that go beyond the barrier are not used only by men but also by them. The entrance in front of the diving becomes a meeting point for thousands and thousands of marine animals and the colors and forms a wide, observable in their eyes the intruder amazed by the human eye. It will take just to make me understand that the Maldivian island paradise perceived in reality it is nothing compared to what we live here below, where nature, as always repeat documentaries, has brought to life and created the most complex eco-system , the delicate color of the planet.
After so much life and color, lying in the sun seems a waste of time. So we return again, this time more to our right, along a short stretch of beach in a clockwise direction and coming to pass, the one in front of the camera 191. The passages are also easily distinguished from the surface and in any event, once in water, the buoy which lies off the coast, which is attached a long rope they use divers back from diving to return to shore without being tossed into the cylinders 'little deep water, or in the event of rough seas. Even here excitement and emotion merge nell'adrenalina to see so much wonder. Of all the tropical fish, which are totally fasted since my first experience, they start to distinguish some observed on the Lonely Planet as the emperor fish, parrot fish, so funny in its beak and so beautiful in the colors of his livery; different squid and some fish ball of different color, a myriad of banner fish, of which I do not know the translation into Italian.
The morning ends with another po 'di tempo, but the sun soon began to fail.
The evening passes fast, and at 19:30 we are back to Gallery retaurant with a hole in the stomach ready for dinner. Passing through the reception, we see the menu displayed with prices in dollars (here is all expressed in U.S. currency even if the tourists are 90% European): ben 20 lunch and 25 for dinner, thank goodness that we have the fullboard!. After dinner we do a walk through the souvenir shop, which explains things very nice and craft, and then we'll drink a cocktail with Patrizia Doriana and the Sand Bar Tonight is the day of the week there is live music. The local group is very good but the songs sung by famous and modern dance, not music typically Maldivian. Immediately after a little walk 'to the pier in the wooden walkway just lit, looking down where all the tourists watching the impressive amount of fish that are moving round in circles. E 'bellissimo linger a few minutes to watch, the atmosphere around it is so quiet. After a while ', almost by chance, there is a huge silhouette longilineal through the other fish is a shark! In seconds you pass under the feet and vanishes in the dark giving you a great feeling: who knows if we will see in our snorkelling!

Snorkeling and beach

I wake up several times during the night, starting from 4 am, because of heavy rain: no way predicts a beautiful day! At 8:30 we go to breakfast with our companions, and wait in the hope that comes un po 'di sole. Unfortunately nothing to do, so rather than go to the beach will be content to take a tour of the usual twenty minutes.
We stop a 'mid-morning in the room of Ambrose and Gabriella, the number 277 is a suite! And 'much larger than ours, has a living room, a great room and a fabulous bathroom. We do not understand why a lot of luck, having taken our own travel package, but the suspicion is that it is in the fact that they said that the celebrated 50 years of marriage and having a room free of gender, probably have been kind enough to make them available!
Comfortable in the sofa, Ambrose and Gabriella told their previous times in the Maldives. The first, in the seventies, they came here they were just starting to create this type of tourism "exclusive". The airport was a tiny track-ball and to go to the islands took hours and hours of the boat. Now you see the seaplanes often go for long journeys. In addition, of course, there were few amenities and were more Spartans resort with bungalows more like huts than in apartments like today. It was the real Robinson Crusoe to tourism: adventure, intense, slightly 'wild. Above all, the barrier was truly a marvel in its colors. Ambrose remains somewhat disappointed by that view today, mostly gray and dead. Unfortunately, as we explained Loris, the phenomenon of coral bleaching has been caused not so much by man as by El Nino, past a few years ago, raising the ocean temperature a few degrees and causing the deaths. I reflected on this in the Lonely Planet, points out that precisely the delicate balance between the polyps and the algae they eat. The rise in temperature is disappearing algae which are the main nutrient of polyps, which are affected accordingly. There are however, still evident, even the signs of destruction, with regard to many broken and damaged corals from evil and inexperienced. Thus making a comparison, we Ambrose is confident that as regards the Red Sea corals remained intact in the area south of Hurgada and still offers a unique in its colors. As regards the fauna, it seems that here at Bandos there is a lot more activity and life.
At noon, saw the sky covered and threatening, we resigned to the possibility of taking the sun, but seen the sea calm and not to that of snorkelling. We enter water without finding much difference between the sun or less, the temperature is always perfect, good visibility and underwater life goes off course if it is bad weather! In the first meters, just entered from the beach, Ambrose draws my attention and Ste on a giant moray eel, which comes out to a piece from the hole with his huge head. Meeting in front of me suddenly and very close to me is almost a shot, then I will stop to observe its troubling winds waiting for the right moment for a photo.
I brought home a car underwater photography disposable 36-pose, only now I realize to be totally inadequate. So I intend to confine myself to the max, trying to capture a single photo for each sample better. Fortunately there's Ambrose, who led her Canon Ixus 2 megapixel digital, with an underwater housing, which I find to be wonderful and amazing with a crisp resolution and lacks even ginning with the low light of the marine world.
Let the moray and continue for a while 'inside the barrier. I dwell on a magnificent, albeit small, sample lion fish (scorpion fish), and then noted, with their colorful transparent, some funny fish cornet (or trumpet) fly up and down a zig-zag. Later still known grugnitore East, marked by the yellow-black stripes, the azzannata bands in eastern and blue surgeon fish with its high contrast yellow-blue of the same name.
Then I left the reef and this time I try to quickly overcome the emotion of seeing a sudden the bottom of me, focusing on what I see around and classify than yesterday a greater variety of fish. Clearly distinguish different types of fish crossbow, the singular unicorn fish along with that long nose, the Lunar Wrasses, the usual banner fish in flocks of hundreds at a time, beautiful in their elegance.
But the greatest thrill comes true with the largest and most feared of all: the shark! The excitement yesterday in the view out of the water evaporates from the wharf to having a face for the first time just a few meters impressive and unforgettable. The most feared predators of the sea is powerful, agile and off and passes under us silent, without even consider. Still shocked by his suddenly materialized behind us, look to remain immobile while away, and then pursue it for a short stretch. His speed is definitely superior to mine and so I see him disappear into the blue ocean in a few seconds. Stefania and Ambrose also have seen, and soon emerge levandoci masks for comment on the incident. Despite being the largest fish and dangerous that has ever seen so far, I have to say that they have not experienced a feeling of fear, especially for the fact that we have been assured that the species here in the Maldives are harmless and has never been any incident against divers. That beast of about a meter and a half, however, gives a rush of adrenaline and not just it takes time to dispose of!
Finished snorkelling, we dried in the room and go to lunch. Continues to rain in the afternoon and so we move between the shops to buy postcards and once in chamber Ambrose and Gabriella a coffee.
17 to retrieve the mask and fins, and so another nuotatina between fish with wonderful photos. This time we make the stretch that goes from the beach in front of the room, overcoming the barrier of the belly fur being careful until you get to step in front of the camera 191. A discreet way. Our goal is to make the whole island tour, a piece at a time, to explore all the wonderful reefs of Bandos.
It 'amazing also realize that every time you enter into a water snorkelling you always leave with some new sighting. The Lonely Planet is quite general and inadequate description and in the figures of fish, and not even a glossary just bought a plastic shop souvenir that I harbor water in order to recognize the new species. The underwater world is very complicated!
He also spends the evening, we went to dinner (always wonderful and abundant) at Gallery Restaurant and walking on the pier. I would agree with Ambrose to get up early and snorkelling at the first light of morning, which is the best time to see a large variety of fish. Before going to bed I go back to the shop to buy a disposable camera underwater, having nearly finished my roll and in despair of wanting to photograph the magnificent sixth continent. Me the beauty of the coast $ 19, while at home I just paid 8 euro: Bloody Hell!

Snorkelling e spiaggia

Ambrogio mi telefona puntuale alle 6:45 per il nostro snorkelling mattutino. Stefania viene con me e ci incamminiamo con l'attrezzatura verso la camera 191. E' bellissimo uscire dalla stanza con solo il costume addosso, scalzi, un paio di pinne in una mano, la maschera nell'altra e la macchina fotografica al polso, passeggiando per questo paradiso sapendo di andare a vederne un altro ancora più bello sott'acqua.
Alle 7 in punto entriamo in acqua, sempre tiepida, nel passaggio di fronte alla 191 dirigendoci verso destra per un lungo tratto, fino ad uscire dopo più di un'ora vicino ad una zona di diversi pontili in pietra, che caratterizzano il lato nord di Bandos. Abbiamo percorso un quarto di giro dell'isola, niente Male! E ovviamente le emozioni si sono susseguite una dietro l'altra, ad iniziare dall'avvistamento di ben quattro squali in successione. Qualcuno è arrivato di fronte e qualcuno alle spalle, ma stavolta non mi sono lasciato cogliere impreparato e sono riuscito a fotografarli! Così come pure ho fotografato gli immensi branchi di banner fish buttandomi in mezzo a loro con assoluta discrezione. Nuotare con loro è come volare in paradiso, non riesco a paragonare questa sensazione a nient'altro che non sia questo.
Quello che mi accorgo essere fondamentali sono gli insegnamenti basilari che mio padre mi diede fin da piccolo nelle nostre pescate subacquee. Noi non apparteniamo al mondo sottomarino e perciò siamo degli estranei. Siamo goffi e lenti e i pesci ci vedono lontano un miglio qualunque gesto brusco proviamo a fare. L'unico modo per avvicinarli è nuotare nell'acqua come un'astronauta vola nello spazio: con calma, tranquillità, movimenti lenti e lineari per smuovere meno acqua e soprattutto fare meno schiuma possibile. Tutto deve essere fatto con estrema fluidità e linearità, dall'immersione, alla respirazione, alla pinneggiata, all'avvicinamento di un pesce. Con questi semplici accorgimenti si può arrivare a pochi centimetri, a fotografare e persino a toccare gli splendidi esemplari che si hanno di fronte senza troppi problemi. Purtroppo mi accorgo invece di altre persone che incrociamo in acqua le quali sono ben lontane da aver capito queste che per me sono comportamenti scontati, e fanno un casino tremendo che spaventa il circondario nel raggio di decine di metri intorno! Magari sono alle prime armi, magari hanno un po' paura o sono impressionati, però è comunque un modo disastroso per intraprendere lo snorkelling. Per fortuna, di mattina presto non c'è quasi nessuno in acqua e mi sembra un fatto insensato visto che risulta essere l'ora propizia per gli avvistamenti. Molto meglio per noi a questo punto!
La novità più grande infine, che non poteva mancare come negli altri snorkelling, arriva con l'avvistamento di una tartaruga marina. Bellissima, pacifica, grande quanto leggera, si destreggia egregiamente sott'acqua che pare volare come una farfalla. Ce la fa notare Ambrogio in pochi metri di profondità proprio al confine della barriera, e stiamo con lei parecchi minuti fotografando ed ammirando la sua eleganza. Altra sensazione indescrivibile. E' in assoluto l'animale marino che dimostra maggior tranquillità nei confronti dell'essere umano, si lascia osservare senza mettersi problemi di alcun tipo e ad un certo punto si avvicina talmente tanto alla faccia di Ambrogio che sembra volerlo baciare! Ambrogio colto all'improvviso la allontana con un gesto un po' impaurito, sperando che non l'abbia scambiato per qualche appetitoso spuntino...
Terminato questo ennesimo leggendario snorkelling, andiamo a fare colazione alle 8 e mezza al Gallery Restaurant. Poi ci incontriamo al diving per prendere un po' di sole, ma purtroppo quella che sembrava stamattina presto una splendida giornata muta in fretta, ancora una volta, in una di pioggia. Stavolta come non mai il cielo si oscura pesantemente sopra il mare con una gigantesca nuvola nera, e nel giro di pochi minuti arriva il diluvio universale! Ci ripariamo sotto il tetto del diving e osserviamo un po' indispettiti la pioggia scrosciante: non possiamo certo dire che il tempo ci stia graziando.
Torniamo un po' in stanza a riposare e si fa ora di pranzo. Nel pomeriggio spediamo un'altra email a casa e stiamo ancora in stanza. Il brutto tempo persiste ma alle 16:30 ci immergiamo nuovamente per un altro snorkelling. Stavolta rimaniamo tra il passaggio del diving e quello della 191, tratto che iniziamo a conoscere molto bene avendolo già fatto diverse volte. Noto come la corrente influenzi notevolmente la vita dei pesci sott'acqua. Seguono quasi tutti sempre la stessa direzione, quindi in senso orario o antiorario rispetto all'isola, al confine della barriera. Capita così che seguendo la stessa direzione dei pesci a volte se ne vedano di meno, mentre andando contro corrente arrivano tutti di fronte un branco dietro l'altro: incredibile, come andare contro mano in un autostrada è la stessa cosa! La particolarità di questo snorkelling risultano essere i batfish, ovvero i pesci pipistrello, elegantissimi nella loro forma piatta e tondeggiante, grandi fino a mezzo metro e soprattutto curiosissimi. Sono loro che si avvicinano a me e mi seguono! Mi diverto a nuotare un bel po' con questo branco di una decina di esemplari magnifici a cui scatto diverse foto in assoluta tranquillità. Devo ammettere però che trovare una buona inquadratura sott'acqua non è per niente facile. Ogni minimo movimento sposta l'obiettivo o il soggetto, e movimenti bruschi o soggetti troppo lontani rendono la foto mossa o sfuocata. La luce e i colori poi sono tutti un'incognita. Sono convinto che la maggioranza delle foto, non avendo esperienza in questo campo, non usciranno proprio come le ho concepite, e forse non usciranno per niente!
Vola veloce anche questa serata e alle 19:30 siamo già tutti seduti al nostro tavolo per usufruire dell'ottimo buffet del Gallery Restaurant. Ne approfittiamo per fare una chiacchierata e una foto con uno dei responsabili del posto, un simpatico ragazzo singalese che parla ben cinque lingue. E' molto distinto e professionale nei modi di fare, non si scompone affatto se non per i suoi cordiali sorrisi. Catturiamo per un po' anche Loris, che vediamo quasi sempre ai pasti seduto in un tavolo in fondo con i suoi colleghi. Ci spiega la situazione del personale di Bandos, che credo possa essere estesa anche al resto delle Maldive. In linea di massima non sono ben pagati, recuperano quando possono con le mance. Allo stesso tempo c'è di buono che sono comunque ben trattati e non sfruttati. Addirittura Loris dice che vengono considerati per alcuni aspetti quasi come veri clienti, nel senso che l'alloggio, anche se non certo paragonabile a quello dei turisti, è comunque pulito bene e comodo e si sta bene.
Dopo cena passeggiamo come di consueto facendo un giretto dell'isola, che continua a rivelare con sorpresa nuovi angoli di una bellezza paradisiaca. Poi lasciamo i nostri compagni e, prima di andare a dormire, ci fermiamo sulla spiaggia prendendo due sdraio e ammirando le stelle che paiono prendersi gioco di noi: ha piovuto tutto il giorno e adesso, di notte, esce il bel tempo! La serata è magnifica, calma, romantica, rilassante. All'orizzonte compaiono le luci di Male, dove domani abbiamo prenotato la gita col dhoni, la tipica imbarcazione locale.

Visit to Male, the capital.

After short preparations reach the pier at 9:00 where a dhoni, the typical boat used by fishermen in the Maldives (and now also of course for tourism purposes), waiting for customers to Bandos who, like us, have booked the trip to the capital Male to 16 dollars per head. It 'a beautiful day, and instead of rejoicing that brings a little' of sadness in our eyes seem a mockery: that today we are not on the beach we decided to leave the sun! Do not return home with an enviable tan, that's for sure ...
Climb in the boat and let slowly departing from the pier, which with today's colors appear very spectacular. The trip lasts a mezz'oretta fast flowing between the beautiful Indian Ocean and surrounding islands. The berth at Male is suggestive, grattaceli with those that seem to end up directly on the sea. It seems that the island is bursting: it is a striking contrast between the cement of civilization and the blue ocean around. Not much vegetation, and space is compressed to the maximum for the homes. It seems that they should build on another island now, to expand the city that now has reached its maximum extension.
Just landed in the port, we gather in a circle and we are divided by nationality. Each group is assigned a guide, so to me and Ste known to be the only Italians. We begin to stroll through the city, crossing the main square, very nice and treated, and one of the few places with green grass and of Evil. The guide explains that the city is cut in two by a few main streets, which the longest is only 2 km This is the radius of the island.
The sun is really strong and does a tremendous heat. Fortunately, the stages are all nearby and just walk. The first is the New Mosque: Modern, a blinding white, a well-curated. To enter, however you need to be barefoot and you can not have the legs discoveries: so, since the shorts are forced to wear a funny pareo that is given on the spot. Stefania not think twice to immortalize dressed like this! We visit the interior of the mosque, a totally new experience for me since it is the first time I see one. Large, spacious, sparkling: these are the adjectives that come to mind to describe it. The floor seems just glazed!
Continuing the route, passing in front of the fish market, which opens later, and that of fruit which is already in full activity. E 'shed indoor stalls with brightly colored frames in special box, much like our rather than Eastern. As well as the streets are scrupulously clean and maintained, a particular that strikes me very much. Perhaps the Muslim influence is seen even from these things. There is also a lot of traffic, and I wonder what sense can buy the car in the Maldives to enable them to move only on a large flat two km across in half an hour walk! I am not surprised at all to see whole streets covered with parked motorbikes and bicycles.
The next goal is the old mosque and the cemetery, where our guide explains the difference in the tip of the tombs in order to recognize the men from women. Let's also a garden where there is a museum of antiquities, there is shown as no small irony, the "mountain" highest point of a small heap of earth a little over the top of me, about two meters across! ! This is to underline how flat the Maldives.
During the walk we stop to observe the way the building and the offices of President, then finally come together in a souvenir shop. At this point, the guide leaves us giving us time to make purchases, saying the return of an hour. We observe a 'the articles and prices: is there really a choice of anything, many objects and nice, but we note that the starting prices are very high. Some things cost even more than Bandos, where, being in the resort in total monopoly for granted davamo to find prices disproportionately less convenient. However we do our shopping, choosing two nice shirts with tropical fish, a keychain, magnets designed with surfing and turtle. The cashier then spend a good ten minutes to bring down the price. Again, the bargaining is the usual method of sale for the tourists!
At the shop we do not see our guide, but a boy who invites us to climb in the shop opposite. Un po 'faltering at the end go up and discover that here is already buys more than the other. We feel a little 'deceived and discover to our cost that obviously the subterfuge and the percentages activities are firmly established here in the Maldives. The fact that the leadership has left us in the shop beside strangely more expensive is not a case.
Rather indispettiti leave the store without waiting for the guide we head towards the port, since you are doing now to return. Walking alone to Male tourists immediately assume another appearance. People of all types and ages are close to leave business cards and ask us to go on their premises, which is beginning to be irritating. Suddenly relaxation and peace of Bandos disappear and it seems to me to be back on the streets of Sri Lanka! We enter the last escape in a craft store items, where I buy a picture that reminds me of the beach in front of our room with a view of Kuda Bandos, and then fled towards the port.
We find our Dhoni waiting to take us back to heaven, in our beloved Bandos! Male just released we are told that the small island opposite, which seems fair as all the others, is actually the prison. Who would have ever said?
Return just in time for lunch at 13:30 and spend the afternoon at the beach. The sky is cloud again, and say that this morning was so beautiful! Let us another wonderful snorkelling and diving between the passage of 191, which is certainly the most convenient short and to enter into the water. Among the wonders of this time I hit a lot angel fish, butterfly fish and again the wonderful fish bat.
Completed our purchases to the Maldives before dinner buying a beautiful photo album in the shop of Bandos, not having found one comparable to Male and at the same price of $ 25, and a T-shirt with two magnificent fish banner designed. At this point there is that the Gallery Restaurant and a night walk off to another day spent in the Maldives.

Snorkeling and beach

Ambrose calls me in the room on time to 6:45. Today we try another legendary snorkelling at the first light of day, starting from the same point where we arrived the other day, and go round the island clockwise. There we meet in front of the pier and get me through the whole touches Bandos, being on the opposite side to my bungalow. Stefania is tired and is sleeping, so we are Ambrose and I alone, armed with our cameras ready underwater adventure!
It does not take very fact that this arrives. After a few minutes, just a hair over the reef there is a real change from the piers, see our huge surprise with the biggest shark ever seen so far. Two to be exact, running in pairs, about two meters long, but especially for very large circle, and another in more than a meter and a half similar to those seen in previous days, which in comparison is a puppy . And maybe it really is. We are petrified for several seconds: see sharks all three at once and the addition of this size really does not happen every day in the life of people like us who do not practice diving! What is most amazing is that unlike the others, these are just passing around us and rehearsing several times before our eyes. So I can follow them for long stretches, immerse in apnea and approaching at a distance of about two meters, taking beautiful pictures. E 'unique and strong emotion, I think at some point almost playing a little' like I did for the tortoise. These however, are sharks, it is better not forget!
After ten minutes we continue our journey always close to the overhang of coral reefs, sharks, leaving behind us. They spend a few minutes, and here they are again re! We are following or are we going in the same direction? I note with amazement that swim quietly in low even up to one meter deep, and I still throw in their chase for several minutes. Although it is not sure of their danger, I admit that I feel a deep feeling of fear and deep respect for these magnificent ocean predators. See them swim under water is amazing, indescribable: it has an elegance and an exceptional power of movement!
Finally abandoned the sharks, we continue our snorkelling in a stretch of barrier single Bandos. The reef here is disturbing and frightening: it sinks tremendamente in some multi-storey slab, creating between one and another of the huge dark caves, surely the best to be used as dens for fish of any size. I look amazed and full of adrenaline this unforgettable landscape below me while pinneggiando through.
We reach the end of this fantastic snorkelling just before the port, where the third step of the island, certainly the least popular because far from the other two. We have come a truly remarkable journey in one hour and ten swimming!
I'll be back in a room together and Stefania go to breakfast. The story of the sharks and we promise to return to the water at mid-morning. At about 9:30 we go on the beach with others. Stefania, Doriana and Gabriella sunbathe with sunbeds always lukewarm water, a common method of tourists here at Bandos, while Ambrose is to make another snorkelling with Patrizia, who learned of him through the marvels of underwater swimming with mask and fins. Despite his initial hesitation and fear, once worn the mask and pointed a paradise for tropical fish, has also launched her exploration.
At 11:30 is my turn and Stefania. Walk to reach the entrance to diving where time, rather than swim in a clockwise direction to reach the next step of the room 191, we are willing to go clockwise around the port. It 'the only trait that I am missing to complete the circumnavigation of Bandos, having already come across the rest of a piece at a time. Meet Ambrose and Patrizia, who tell us that they have done the same path and exiting the first pier of the port being a little 'attention to the belly for the shallow water.
We begin our snorkelling leaving behind us the diving. The weather is unstable, as almost every day that we passed here in the Maldives, there is the sun on the horizon but you can see heavy Nuvoloni. The sea is still calm. After about three quarters of an hour are witnessing a radical change. The sky is dark and heavily once the port becomes visible in front of us began to flood, so great to feel discomfort while I'm on your back with our heads in to look at the bottom. There is a sudden wind, the sea ripples significantly and visibility disappears altogether: we can not longer see Kuda Bandos that a moment ago was just in front of us nitidissima.
Our eyes is so in just ten minutes an apocalyptic scenario and starts the fear. The first impulse is of course to go out to the shore, as we would have done at any beach in the Mediterranean, but we know that both I and Ste that here in the Maldives would sfracellarsi on the reef! E 'crazy because the beach is not even fifty meters, we need only a few minutes to get there. Debating in the middle of the storm with your head out of the water, trying to understand what the right thing to do as quickly as possible, before the situation deteriorates. Turning back is not an issue, we are too far away from the diving and tired. Next to us there is the port to the switch but you can see from there get a few meters high waves that crash on the pier. Groped so we opt for the exit from the jetty which is close to us, who have also exploited Ambrose and Patrizia just an hour ago. But as we approach the barrier, the absorption caused by the fringes of the waves makes the visibility is zero and we are tossed from one place to another. The situation is critical and we are about to enter the panic, the worst enemy of man in a dangerous situation. Seeking to calm Stefania who wants to leave at all costs and convinced that the move from here is too risky! It 'incredible to think they are standing, without fins (causes a bubble on the foot for snorkelling too many of these days!) In just over a meter deep at the shore with a few tens of meters away and can not leave ! The whole situation seems to be a huge paradox.
Let's go back into the high beyond the barrier because at least here the visibility is greater and the waves are not high. We are tired but the best solution, reflecting in a shiny, you stay right here in the water waiting for the storm passes, which usually takes no longer than half an hour. But I understand the panic of Stefania who wants to quit completely, and so we decide to move forward to achieve the transition over the port. With huge waste of energy, since we are just up stream and I am even without fins, fail after a quarter of an hour to travel a route that would have normally done in a couple of minutes and reach the entrance of the small port of Bandos.
So do a few meters and behold our salvation: we protected from the docks throughout the length of the port to our beloved wooden bridge, where we come in the evening to observe the fish. We are exhausted but saved.

for reasons of space, the story continues on www.ivanweb.net

The cut of the surgeon fish. Kuda Bandos

Stefania, given the bad experience of the past, preferring to stay asleep but I can not see myself from my beloved tropical fish. I go out and reach the pier to Ambrose at the port side, where we would be due out yesterday if it had not reached the storm. We need to redo exactly the same path, and conversely up to diving.
Just past the barrier, I cimento to observe carefully the fund known as a rock that moves to several meters deep. It takes a few seconds to focus and recognize the magnificent sea turtle that now rises to the surface. Ambrose immediately call and stand around her for some time: the second is that we see, absolutely beautiful!
At one point, during an incursion into a bunch of banner fish, I feel a shot under the right foot, as if I had struck violently against a rock. There are no fins, and then I look around worried that they have not touched the coral, but it is not possible: they are high in water! Another painful shock to me retract the foot and suddenly surrounded by hundreds of fish do not understand the origin. I left the flock and I am a beast by the ugly face, of about half a meter, which goes from the bottom quickly towards me pointing straight at my feet! Li shakes once again and he deviates sharply at the last minute, Scansano. Then talk to Ambrose who saw the whole scene and confirmed that it was the best to come at him. It also puts a laugh because in fact the whole situation seems almost a joke! I look around and see the fish that keeps following me on the bottom, and several times, perhaps a dozen, salt and then suddenly pointing to my avoid gesturing. At one point even threatening him with the camera, between the laughter of disbelief Ambrose. E 'a comic situation but at the same time irritating, I have not done anything to this fish and I do not understand why have it with my foot! I look down and see two long cuts under the plan, minus those shots that I heard were probably bites of that unfortunate being. I note that I am a diver exceeds himself without fins, and fish is also doggedly against her feet: then it is a habit!
We go out to the diving joking and laughing with Ambrose that this surely will become the most fun to talk to friends around. But soon I realize that the two cuts become something much more serious than it seemed. Meanwhile fastidiosissimi is because, through the long foot all'alluce up, at every step that I put in the ground are suffering under the weight of the body! Then also bleed, so, thinking about the bite of a fish to know which species, I consider it necessary and proper to make them see a doctor.
At 10:00 o'clock, opening hours of the medical center, I approach with Stefania and Patrizia, who has brought in these days of the bubbles on his knees leaning allergic to coral. I received a kind doctor who makes me sit on the bed. To explain the attack of the fish but she seems unbelieving: bites can not be because they are cut off. I asked several times if I passed on the coral but I keep repeating to be sure that it was a fish and I was on high. However I disinfect a medical with very strong and I strip the wound. Not safe for bath today, maybe tomorrow can be groped.
Then shows me a poster with the different types of fish and I is the "surgeon", wondering if what I saw. Already, it is him! I then explained that they are not biting, but its backbone, particularly cutting edge, which uses as a weapon of defense or attack no coincidence, is named for the surgeon just fish! You never stop learning. And this expensive lesson: $ 40 on account, of which 25 per visit and 15 of medication.
We reach the beach in the other telling everything. I am a little 'disappointed in the figure, but mainly because it could not do more for the bathroom and having to walk limping painfully, just today that finally there is the sun. I take this opportunity to make still images and shoot for the girls who enjoy the sunbeds in the water chatting.
For the afternoon I and Ste, we booked the trip at Kuda Bandos, but this time our comrades we have followed. At 15:00 we reach the jetty, where a few tourists Dhoni charged at a time and a part of the small uninhabited island in front of Bandos. The trip takes just a quarter hour and is very pleasant. The mooring pier is also spectacular, with the colors of the sea and the beach drugs, even more beautiful Bandos! It seems really down in paradise: a tropical island uninhabited for all of us, surrounded by a white-sand blinding and a great blue and crystal that surrounds it.
We take some photos in the rock that welcomes tourists, in the high and magnificent palm trees, and after a short walk to the beach we stop to catch the sun. It 's absolutely wonderful and perfect, there's nothing much else to add. The blue sky and sunlight finally make those colors in those days we were still able to see. The sea is a table and Stefania them opportunity to do a swim now, unfortunately alone crying to me having to please the heart to take while I am laid up with my bandaged foot! The whole situation (apart from the accident) I strongly recalls the day when in Thailand, just a year ago, we were deserted on the island of Koh Phoda even beyond white sand, peace of God, so many palm trees and the sea flat, even if not as crystalline as that of Maldives, you should admit it.
I know an Italian girl who asks me to take a picture with her boyfriend greek. They married and are in honeymoon. Stay at Paradise Island and they found themselves very well. As soon as I hear the price they have paid for a week on half board to me the chills: practically what we, for the same package of two weeks Sri Lanka-Maldives fullboard! I will of course refrain from saying so as not to spoil the honeymoon ...
After a while 'to relax in the sun we walk (painful for me!) Crossing the length and off the island, discovering that it is actually much smaller than Bandos. There are tall palm trees everywhere, and several buildings used for banquets and parties from organizing in several resort islands, starting from our offering fishing and dinner on site. The northern part of Kuda Bandos, which can be seen perfectly Bandos, is still less attractive than the south, where the beach is better and bigger.
It seems to be no longer anyone other tourists have gone away before, and we turn to this beautiful paradise completely undisturbed! The sun begins to fall quickly, and after taking the last rays of darkness before the sun of tall palm trees, we return to the pier to wait for our dhoni. We thus discover that in fact we were not their own: there was also another couple of tourists. Four people across the island!
Let melancholic Kuda Bandos and return just in time to enjoy our last spectacular sunset in the Maldives, because tomorrow you return home. Begin to prepare something in the bag, let's dinner and then we dedicate ourselves to the latest (and really the last time!) Gifts to take home: two beautiful and colorful sarongs for Stefania, and a wooden photo frame with tropical fishes, more the poster of the legendary view from Bandos for me!

Last snorkeling. Return travel

There is Stefania and I at 7:00, on time like the other morning, in front of the diving with Ambrose. We opt for a quiet swim up to the passage of the room 191, for later in the Maldives. Fortunately, the foot does not hurt me in water and can swim safely, indeed, I am much better than on land.
This morning, a day is quite active in the underwater world: we pass in front of everything and more, including several sharks. I can not even believe that in a few hours I will have to leave this wonderful paradise submerged, so lively and colorful, which was shocking experience for me.
I realize that my vision and snorkelling in the concentration was increased significantly, rising from the primordial emotions of adrenaline to the reef, to a more careful and thorough search of the details and forms of life.
This time, the absolute novelty is embodied in a magnificent example of octopus and the mighty eagle of the sea. The first found him perfectly camouflaged among the coral and live by it for quite some time, while dramatically changing the shape and colors instantly by moving slowly on the bottom. The second meeting, I arrived at a depth of about five meters and can follow it only for a short stretch. With a wingspan of two meters, disturbing in its huge head that easily distinguishes it from other similar species (such as race and manta), its elegance and possanza make the move in really awesome, despite the end of the day is not certain among the most dangerous fish. Ambrose reach and Stefania, who were ahead of me, and I discover with pleasure that I have also seen them. Stefania was just shocked by the huge be!
Finished snorkelling go to breakfast, then go back to the room to close the bags. The bad weather, even now that we have to go away, no saves and discourages us upon the beach. At noon we leave the room and let's have lunch, then do a nice tour of the island, despite the clothes make him quite warm. We can not leave again without Bandos all at least once! Shooting my latest photos and 14:00, pitilessly, our boat awaits us to accompany us to the airport.
Leaving the island seems a real tragedy, and not that we lack the tears do not fall: something that was not even for Sri Lanka. So many thoughts, like the end of each journey, passing through the head, but one thing in these cases is always certain: the deep desire and conviction to do everything to return!
Part to 16:45 our flight from Male to Milan. Begins the ordeal of another long day of return. Amazed by the window I see one of the many islands of the Maldives surrounded by coral reefs, which I could not do to same: it's crazy to see from this height! During the first hours I watch the latest film of the moment: "The legend of the extraordinary men" and "Charlie's Angels - Full Throttle", and then let me go to a deep sleep.
At 21:45 landed at Malpensa, with six hours of time off. Warmly welcome our colleagues together with whom we have tied in a very unexpected way, with the promise of feeling soon by email or telephone.
At this point we must move from Terminal 2 for international flights in Terminal 1 for domestic, to spend the night there while awaiting our flight to Cagliari. The thing is not easy, especially for the tired and nervous to be back home. Not looking at the shuttle stop that shuttle between the two terminals, we try in vain to make a long walk, but making the distances are too long and not at all clear signs return after a while 'back. Find ourselves waiting for the bus and the shuttle, which finally brings us to the infamous Terminal 1. E 'midnight passed and the thought of having to stay here eleven hours is quite nice ....

Rientro a Cagliari

Dopo una nottata non proprio da ricordare sulle poltroncine di Malpensa, facciamo colazione al bar un paio di volte in attesa del nostro volo per Cagliari. Finalmente, alle 11:10, lasciamo anche Milano e atterriamo dopo appena un'ora nella nostra amata Sardegna. Le nostre mamme vengono a prenderci all'aeroporto, trovandoci bene ed abbronzati come giustamente ci si aspetta quando si va in vacanza al mare.
Un altro viaggio memorabile è archiviato nelle nostre foto, nei miei filmini, e soprattutto in una speciale parte tra il cuore e la mente, pronta ad essere rievocata per dare emozioni indescrivibili. Grazie di esistere Sri Lanka e Maldive, speriamo di rivederci un giorno!!!