Myanmar and Cambodia pleasure travel review

Dedicated to all the people I care for reasons of work, age and health have not been able to share the beauty and harmony of these enchanting places.


Raffaele Banfi

 

Info ...

Rieccomi leaving for another trip, this time the destination is Myanmar formerly Burma (which, for convenience will continue to call the old name) and Cambodia. Countries away thousands and thousands of miles, with cultures different from our own history and quickly read the books, heard on television for the events of recent decades have occurred in the Indochinese peninsula. The information gathered on the guides and the internet, give a partial picture of the current situation, so I do not know that in these countries will find me totally unknown.
Prepare the bags, camera cards and reserve (I have recently converted to digital abandoning my glorious Pentax mechanical), my inseparable blocking notes, pen, passport, travel plans, guide and not for past the necessary tickets.
For the journey I have chosen two guides;
• For Burma (Myanmar): the first is the Ulysses Hubs - and 2003 - (very good for descriptive, making it possible to know the history, customs, geography and ethnic groups), the second is the Lonely Planet -EDT - 5th edition, by March 2006 - (very useful for the list of places and monuments to visit, as well as provide other "useful" for the trip).
• In Cambodia, the Ulysses Hubs - and 2003 - and the Lonely Planet-EDT - 5 ° Italian edition, January 2006 -.
In the diary I shall refer to the places I visited, giving the page reference guide for Ulysses Moizzi with (M pp.), While for the EDT-Lonely Planet will be shown as (L pp.), So that those who wish to deepen historical details and has all the cultural references of the case.

To Bangkok

Childbirth from home to the train station of Saronno (VA) where the group is being formed, we have 29 people, with some others I have shared trips are also know no other, and the first impact is good. The station is arriving by car, train people, who with a van of a country, which has kindly offered to carry the luggage of travelers. Let the rail tickets and go up on the Malpensa Express 11.16, the fast train that connects Milan to Malpensa airport, making a few stops between. At 11.37 we are at Lombard, the procedure for boarding strangely slowed from an airport that the computer does not recognize some tickets, but after a few minutes of stand-by again and the group can take on the suitcases. The plane to Bangkok is full, the group is confused with other passengers who travel for work, for those who trek sull'Himalaya, who is in Thailand, we, as those directed at other countries in the Indochinese peninsula. The flight is providing outstanding service to the Thai (Thai company) and after 11 hours of flight through a blanket of clouds, with a view to arrive at Bangkok.

Yangon - 1st part

Landed, the airport and steel sheets is modern, wide, clean and orderly, continuous draws a sail, it's really impressive. Long corridors leading to the boarding of who we have just as transit, to move over 1 km on carpets and furniture rose to the upper floor, pass the check for the shipment to Yangon, the capital of Burma, we sit outside, look the clock, is 6.35, the sun is already high in the sky, sleep begins to be felt during the flight almost did not sleep, who read, who using the LCD monitor TV watching a film the plane, Who played, who listened to music. After a short wait we resume the direct flights to Yangon, the flight is short, about 50 minutes. The hostess of Thai, the women on the plane, get off before they lauded a colorful and beautiful orchid, just a thought gradito welcome.
Looking through the window, the landscape is a flat expanse, a vast rice field. Rice irregular with many rivers nearby, a large river nearby, you will see houses and palm trees, some houses are new, others seem to huts. Landed and I see the people working at the margins of the track, the first impression is that they come in a developing country. The plane stopped, we descend to expect a coach is very dilapidated and in a few meters along the route leads us to the arrival of international flights. The airport by more the impression of a large open yard, where people in transit must be careful to present scaffolding and workmen who work, men and women are on scaffolding without any protection, to stay in balance on a simple wooden axles. We shall control for entry to Burma, we are preparing to withdraw his bags and seek the guidance that will accompany us for the tour. Burmese are a girl who speaks Italian, is a tourist guide who is returning home, give us a hand to identify our local guide, as the suitcases come, retire and pass the customs airport are at the end of the tape and .... my suitcase does not arrive. Thanks to the wonder of Burmese girls' information and they tell me that if the case is not reached, could arrive in the evening with another flight of Thai and they are things that happen. Then you must fill out the complaint form, there is the tail, from what I understand not arrived 4 suitcases. Completed paperwork, talking with our guide, tells me that the agency will take to find and the delivery of the suitcase at the hotel. Are not entirely peaceful. Less harm than in their hand luggage, I brought a change not only the camera and blocking notes.
Finally I reach the other on the bus is parked outside the airport, now known in the rise of something strange, the driving is a right, but the direction of travel is like in Italy, the coach goes back to when the movement was English style, and then go up the left side of the bus, or from the center of the roadway.
We leave to the hotel, the guide is, is called Soe Min Tun, but says he shorten his name with Soso, is a jovial guy, he speaks fluent Italian, the first impression is excellent.
On the way over an hour to the hotel, we Soso mentions something of the situation in his country, which coincides with the bed and guides found on the Internet, the country's political situation is delicate, is the military and the control makes use of an effective internal intelligence service. The phone does not work, I explained and told me that the cards only work in Burma, all the others are unusable. Italy with no connection via mobile phone, you can keep in touch with the phone's and e-mail, where it is available.
From the airport, I noticed that people do not dress all'occidentale, only the military and the police are wearing trousers, all the other people lead a kind of skirt whose length varies from ankle to knee. I ask Soso, who says that is the Longyear, the Burmese traditional garment used by men and women, is comfortable and convenient. The shoe for the Burmese is the ciabatta infradito, comfortable, practical, easy to remove and place. The custom is that homes in circles barefoot, then before entering, you must remove the shoes, another reason for the comfort of slippers infradito. In addition, access to holy places, as a sign of respect, has allowed only barefoot.
I think: if your suitcase does not arrive, I could buy a Longyear, or go in search of western clothes? I will see how things pan out in the evening.
Heading to the hotel, I notice a significant urban contrast, flanked by new buildings housing a dilapidated done with style indefinitely, like modern bill, but neglected. One sees un'urbanizzazione very chaotic, almost without rules with a striking contrast between the buildings, the residential area is very well kept, with houses in colonial English style. During the trip, by bus, you can see from the roof of golden pagodas, pass around the imposing, elegant and glittering Shwedagon Paya, the pagoda goal of the afternoon tour.
We reach the hotel, welcome drink and accommodation in the rooms. I am on the 19th floor, the window watching the landscape, albeit sleepy look better contrast of the buildings as seen from the street. After traveling a few hours of sleep you need just to recover the difference created by time zone, we are 5 hours ahead of Italy, here is a day we have made virtually no sleep a night. The phone rings, which are the 11.45 premises, and is the beginning of the tour, welcome in Burma seems to announce the alarm .... The meeting is in the lobby, the guide seeks to my mind for my suitcase that "maybe" will arrive tonight, thank goodness I was with the change in the provident hand luggage (prevention is always better than cure). On the bus go up and come through the town around a lake, where a Chinese restaurant, sample some cuisine Burmese / Chinese shrimp rolls wrapped in dough and fried rice, soup with chicken and mushrooms, beef with vegetables, fish, duck, cooked vegetables, all served with boiled white rice. There are new flavors, lunch ends with the excellent fresh fruit, melon white papaja, watermelon. Tastes vaguely remember our Chinese restaurants, the service is excellent. Fortunately that says Soso, this was only a brief stop for a snack before beginning the tour.
The temperature is warm and humid, 35 degrees with 80% humidity, the monsoon has just past and we should find only the residual disturbance.
Heading in the bus and riding around the city we see the bus a little dated, "are old British cars, dating back to World War II, once used for transporting troops and now converted into bus citizens. Some are full of people, Soso says that all pay the ticket, but only the luckiest sitting, traveling in the other foot, others clinging traveling outside of the bus. Known to stop the inside of the empty bus: the seats are made from 2 wooden benches placed on either side longitudinally placed under windows and also 2 wooden benches placed centrally.

Yangon - 2nd part

Turning into the city and quickly come around a structure that looks like a shed, but the entrance is decorated and finely decorated, we Chaukhtatggi Paya (L95 - M96): this is a sacred place, we must remove their shoes to enter, an imposing statue of Buddha lying down, 72 meters long is to our view. Respect for the sacred places is huge, you should always enter barefoot and dressed in more temples covered with legs and arms (this respect we bring it all over Burma and the temples of Cambodia). The statue of Buddha dating back to 1962, is made of solid bricks, finely coated and colored, the color is a particularly highly valued by the Burmese. The shed is supported by several pillars decorated with silver and mirrors. Near the statue, collect the caskets of the faithful deals and offers that are for the maintenance of the statue and the whole complex. The cushion of the statue is decorated with glass. In the shed there is a photo of the original statue, which was demolished and replaced with the current. The soles of the feet of the statue of Buddha, are decorated with 108 plates depicting flowers, animals and habitats. They are a landmark of Buddhist religion, these boards are the very essence of Buddhist belief. 7 depicts the mountains that must be overcome and the 7 seas must cross to reach the Mount Meru, the central point of the Buddhist religion. Also depicted are all plans that members of the paradise that is expressed by the Buddhist reincarnations. Heaven is made up of 26 floors of which 6 below, where the angels live and 20 above, then there is the current plan where people live and animals, and there are 4 floors of hell. A total of 31 levels.
Let the imposing statue and Soso us to visit the nearby monastery, where hundreds of monks living and studying. As we turn, tells the daily life of monks, they get up at dawn, with breakfast and then hand in a black vase, completely surrounded by their dark brown coat, barefoot running for the country to the call of charity, food will be paid their by the faithful in the pot black (usually boiled white rice). The Monaco is two meals a day, at dawn on the first and second in any event before the 12 and until the next morning not ingests food. In the afternoon, the monaco can run with a shoulder discovery. The dress completely covered in the morning is a sign of respect for the faithful who give their food offer.
Turning to the monastery we are structured as the Burmese case, first we enter barefoot, shoes and slippers should be left at the door. Usually the first room is a lounge where you placed above an altar with a statue of Buddha, in front of which are 5 glasses, which represent the Buddha, monks, benefactors, parents and teachers.
We visit the house where the monks live, a living room with the altar, of very simple, a sink, a room with mats placed on the floor, where the monks sleep, finally releasing a room where they sleep the head and deputy head of monks. The building is completely made of wood, the interior is simple and comfortable, the windows let in light that illuminates the places that are devoted to reading and study.
We visit the monastery entirely: set on a hill, is made of wood houses, the avenues are fully protected internal hedging, a shelter from sun and rain. Outside of their residences, wash some monks, wearing their brown coat will pay him some water using Catini iron (usanza find that throughout Burma). Other monks resting on wooden benches placed under the plants, however, close to homes.
Leave the monastery, dating coach and get on the shoes, but soon after we carry out another stop, we came to the imposing and extended Pagoda Shwedagon Paya (L87 - M87)) with the golden stupa.
I have just spoken of pagoda and stupas, but what does that mean? We use western pagoda indifferently the term to denote any religious Buddhist structure, but there are fundamental differences, vediamole:
• The pagoda is a religious complex where there are multiple structures;
• The stupa is a solid brick building, usually the shape of the leaves "Ficus Religiosa" or "Tree of Pippala", the tree where Buddha had the lights and leaves in the shape that vaguely represents a heart upside down , became the model for the construction of the stupa, gilded tended, but the Burmese love to color it in white also.
At the base of the stupa can be stored: the relics of Buddha, or relics of monks, or a copy of the three sacred books of Buddhism, or a votive tablet.
It ends with a stupa decorated the top "hti" shaped umbrella or votive crown, on top all'hti waves always a weathervane, the "hingetmana".
Hti The iron is made of gold or gilded bronze, and in even the most important gold studded with precious stones.
• The temple is a place of worship, prayer, is accessible to the faithful, and contains statues of Buddha.
But let us return to our tour, the bus stops, take away the shoes and we are preparing to enter the complex from entering the west portal. In the pagoda are 4 entrances, one cardinal point, the original entrances were decorated in wood, was rebuilt starting in 1997 and ending in 2002. The approaches to the pagoda are as corridors are completely covered by roof, white walls, support a series of seven green roofs from working embellished with gold, which break up at the end the roof is surmounted by a golden spire also , the look is lost to infinity and watch the beauty of such coverings.
The coverage of the temples and other buildings is called "pytthat" is superimposed over the roofs, decorated with gilded wooden tunnels or tin, which are gradually tightening up.
To access the pagoda, to avoid climbing stairs access and using a lift recently built quickly arrive at the top of the hill, having a single view of the city, the surrounding hills and the landscape overall, the view that it is really fascinating, green hills are the eye can see.
Enter the perimeter of the pagoda, now we see an altar under a Ficus Religiosa ", the atmosphere seems surreal and it is great that the religion is perceived in this place, we turn from golden pinnacles, we walk between incense smoke and people praying. The sky is gray, but blue is a hole in the clouds break, the sun lights up the huge golden stupa, a 99.6 meters high. It revolves around the structure in a clockwise direction, the stupa is surrounded by the statues that show the points with global representations (L92), representing those born in the morning or afternoon of each day of the week, where the natives pray and give offerings to the corresponding statues .
The stupa is surrounded by a white marble floor that is cleaned up by volunteer 2 times per day according to precise and strict training, cleaning is done in the morning and afternoon. There are many in the white or golden stupa built by private individuals until 1999, after they have been barred from further proliferation.

Yangon - 3rd part

We continue our tour left and we come to a building containing a bell of 20 tons, the bell is divided into 3 parts distinct, the first is the edge, the second presents the stories of Buddha, the third is astrological references.
Near the bell of a building has wooden frames, are frames on which the night of full moon, when Buddhist festival celebrated, women weave a fabric, it is a race that will see at the end a winner will be rewarded with much money and its precious fabric used to dress a statue of Buddha.
Not far away there is a statue of Buddha with a fan driven by hand, the popular belief has it that shake this range is used to remove personal enemies.
Continuing always barefoot, in a building we find an interesting photo gallery of the pagoda, there are photos in b / w and color photos which demonstrate the various vicissitudes that the complex has experienced throughout history. There are some wonderful color photos del'hti, located on the top of the stupa, which contains a diamond of 76 carats, is entirely of gold and with precious stones, and the current hti was placed in 1999, replacing the previous golden bronze. The stupa is entirely covered with gold foils.
There are photos which demonstrate the impressive restoration works carried out, the reconstruction of buildings el'abbellimento the same, a beautiful and important evidence which shows the respect for this sacred place for Buddhists.
Nearby, under a wooden temple there is a bell of 40 tons. Continuing the tour, we see a chapel with a golden statue of Buddha studded with precious stones, this is a special place for prayer and meditation. Leaving the pagoda and head towards the lift that I will return to the base of the hill, I notice that the sun is setting in the sky with gray breccia, sends its golden rays on the lining of the stupa, illuminating the other dozens of gilded stupa as best Welcome to Burma could hope?

I talked about the statues of Buddha that we have seen so far, but we see the three classical positions of iconography that mostly meet in the location in Burma and Cambodia:
• Buddha seated with his right hand touching the ground and the left hand resting on her lap, this position symbolizes meditation;
• Buddha standing with his right hand and index tense bulleted points the way, with the left hand raised in a gesture of greeting, it indicates reassurance;
• Buddha lying with the legs flexed represents the achievement of nirvana, with her legs spread is the act before his death;
So far, the views were those statues of Buddha sitting symbolizing meditation and will also most of those visits in which we will see if the statues were different show each time in the story.

Returning to the hotel we make a trip to the Chinese market, I note the richness of colors of fruits, enjoy the smell of grilled meat, I see clothes shops (of which I take the reference, if the bag does not arrive), cosmetic stores and jewelry. The stalls of the market are made with the support of wood, the tables are bamboo and woven tablecloths made with enormous leaves, where the food is placed for sale. Countless are the dried fish exposed to ignore in the name, the fruit has variegated plants unknown to me, among those known individual white melons that we have enjoyed in the dining room.
Return to hotel for a shower, I would change (with what I have in hand luggage) and then again by coach for a restaurant site, also on a lake. The restaurant, masonry, has a shape similar to a boat, is a place only for tourists, and this demonstrates the quality of cheap food. The evening was welcomed by a musical performance of traditional dances and then by a puppet. Dinner passes quickly and return to the hotel around 21.30. Soso warns everyone to prepare a light suitcase for an overnight stay of one night, for the excursion the following day.
My suitcase has not arrived at the airport, hence my backpack to match the occasion, some recovery in the meantime shirt.
In room after the air travel and the day coaches and between visits, even in eyes with the spectacle of the pagoda and the huge golden statue of Buddha, collapse into a deep sleep.

To the Golden Rock - 1st part

Alla mattina Yangon si presenta avvolta da una coltre nebbiosa, dal 19° piano del Traders Hotel e la vista spazia sulle abitazioni e sul porto, prendendo l’ascensore posso intravedere sulla collina la Shwedagon Paya visitata il giorno prima. Avere qualche punto di riferimento per orientarsi è meglio.
Colazione in albergo, si riprende il pullman e si attraversa la città diretti alla Golden Rock: la Roccia d’oro. Nell’attraversare la città, visto il traffico intenso, Sosò ne approfitta per cominciare ad illustraci alcuni aspetti del suo paese.
La prima curiosità riguarda le targhe degli autoveicoli che hanno 5 colori, il rosso per automezzi adibiti al trasporto pubblico, il nero per automezzi privati, il bianco per gli automezzi delle autorità, il celeste per i pullman ed infine il giallo per gli automezzi dei monaci (pochissimi a dire il vero).
Vediamo dei bambini che in file ordinate camminano lungo il ciglio della strada, sono vestiti con il “longyi” verde e camicia bianca sono studenti che si stanno recando a scuola, il ciclo scolastico ricorda quello italiano, elementari, medie e superiori. Ma in Birmania esiste un sistema meritrocatico, e solo secondo i voti acquisiti nelle superiori si accede alle facoltà universitarie, dove i migliori studenti accedono a medicina ed ingegneria, mentre l’accesso alle altre facoltà degrada secondo i voti ottenuti alle superiori.
In Birmania si utilizzano tre calendari, il Gregoriano (quello usato in occidente), il calendario Birmano (che corrisponde al 1300) ed il calendario Buddista (che corrisponde al 2500). Gli ultimi due calendari seguono le fasi lunari, hanno periodi di 28 giorni ed in vario modo compensano per arrivare ai 365 giorni del percorso terrestre intorno al sole.
Durante il viaggio transitiamo nei pressi di un ospedale, Sosò ci spiega che esistono 3 tipi di ospedali. I primo è una struttura prettamente ambulatoriale dove è presente solo il medico che prescrive le ricette, il paziente deve poi recarsi ad acquistare i farmaci in una farmacia, collocata solitamente nei pressi dello studio medico; questo servizio è riservato alla popolazione. Il secondo tipo di ospedale è riservato agli impiegati statali, dove, accedono solo gli impiegati statali ed i loro familiari; queste strutture utilizzano medicine cinesi di scarso effetto terapeutico. Esistono poi gli ospedali militari, accessibili ai militari ed ai loro familiari, sono le migliori strutture sanitarie del paese, dotate di macchinari e farmaci occidentali.
Infine, ma fuori dai tre tipi su descritti e solo nelle grandi città, esistono gli ospedali per i monaci, accedono solo ed esclusivamente i monaci dei vari conventi; durante il viaggio, attraversando Yangon, transiteremo più volte nei pressi di un ospedale per monaci, un edificio grande e molto modesto.
Sosò prosegue descrivendo altre caratteristiche della vita in Birmania; è un paese che par essere costituito da caste, i militari, gli impiegati statali, i contadini e poi il resto della popolazione.
Poter entrare nei ranghi militari e superare i primi duri periodi, fornisce la possibilità di accedere alle scuole militari che servono anche come avanzamento di grado.
L’altra categoria di persone che hanno dei benefici sono gli impiegati statali, i quali, diversificati per ministero godono di una serie di “benefit” statali, chi riceve buoni per i mezzi pubblici, chi viaggia gratis, chi ha sconti su energia elettrica, chi riceve riso ed olio per sé e per la propria famiglia.
Da quanto raccontato, la Birmania appare un paese molto simile ad altri, dove solo a qualcuno sono concessi alcuni privilegi e benefici. Dalle spiegazioni e da quanto ho letto prima di partire, emerge che anche qui la corruzione è una presenza costante in molte attività e qualche scandalo riguardante persone pubbliche ben in vista, è abbastanza recente. Come metro di misura anche correlato a questo fenomeno, abbiamo delle cifre, lo stipendio medio di un impiegato statale è di 80 dollari al mese, per acquistare una Land Rover nuova (e ne girano parecchie), occorrono 150.000 dollari, di cui la maggior parte sono tasse governative. Questo parametro potrebbe spiegare la piaga che permette a qualcuno d’arricchirsi. Un appartamento in città costa molto meno di un’auto.
La Birmania è il settimo produttore mondiale di riso che risulta essere una delle principali voci nell’esportazione. I terreni sono di proprietà dello stato e sono dati ai contadini per un periodo di 60 anni, il pagamento può avvenire in due modi; il primo è l’affitto puro, il secondo modo è il 10 % del raccolto, calcolato sulla stima della produzione media della superficie della risaia, ma in questo caso potrebbero esserci seri problemi in caso di carestia, in quanto questo sistema crea indebitamento ai contadini stessi.
Ai contadini, lo stato fornisce riso ed olio a prezzi bassissimi e gli oli utilizzati dai birmani sono: quello di palma (nocivo per la salute), quello di arachidi e quello di sesamo.
Proseguiamo verso la periferia di Yangon e ci fermiamo nei pressi di un’edicola; un luogo dove tutti i conducenti di automezzi si fermano per un ringraziamento a San Cristoforo, protettore degli autisti: infatti, qualsiasi mezzo che transita, si ferma un attimo e poi riparte.
Percorriamo qualche chilometro e poi effettuiamo una sosta al cimitero degli alleati, dove riposano 27.026 inglesi e loro alleati caduti nella seconda guerra mondiale; le lapidi indicano, nome e cognome, battaglione e nazionalità, sono ben curate e vediamo del personale intento al taglio dell’erba ed alla lucidatura del bronzo delle lapidi. La manutenzione del cimitero è di assoluta e rigorosa precisione, un bell’ordine in puro stile inglese.
Ripartiamo e poco distante un casello per il pedaggio, è l’accesso all’autostrada birmana, due corsie asfaltate per direzione ed ai lati .... pedoni e poi la pista per i carri trainati dai buoi e per i trattori: veramente un’autostrada unica.
Il manto stradale presenta qualche buca, e dopo 80 km percorsi in oltre un’ora, arriviamo nella città di Bago dove ci fermiamo a vedere la Shwethalyaung Buddha (L145 – M109), una colossale statua di Buddha sdraiato lunga 55 mt ed alta 16. Anche in questo caso, come nel precedente, la statua è realizzata con mattoni pieni, rivestita di malta e finemente decorata. Sul retro della statua delle raffigurazioni illustrano la storia della statua; alla testa, il basamento è ricoperto di formelle di vetro colorato che illustrano la storia di Buddha. Anche qui il luogo è di pellegrinaggio e, come in tutto il mondo …... esiste un luogo di pellegrinaggio senza l’adiacente mercatino? Ottimo motivo, per qualche componente del gruppo di cominciare a far compere.
Riprendiamo il viaggio diretti verso lo Stato Mon (una delle regioni della Birmania), e percorrendo una strada piena di buche l’andatura rallenta di molto, ma questo permette d’osservare bene le risaie e di poter scattare qualche foto dal pullman. Ad un certo punto il mezzo si ferma di fianco ad una risaia, scendono i due autisti e cominciano a trafficare .... non vedo che fanno, ma stanno prendendo acqua dalla risaia … Sosò c’informa che stanno aggiungendo acqua nel radiatore. Riprendiamo il viaggio ed attraversando un fiume, su un ponte di ferro costruito dagli inglesi, passiamo il confine regionale ed entrando nello Stato di Mon, ci avviciniamo alle colline dove il paesaggio cambia, le risaie lasciano il posto alla foresta tropicale, si vedono campi coltivati ed immense piantagioni di piante da gomma.

To the Golden Rock - 2nd part

Another pause, we built a village along the road, the coach has a problem with the cooling system, the air conditioner is stopped, the drivers down, open the bonnet and trying to replace a socket, failed attempt in As the piece is not original unsuitable replacement for which is remounted the old sleeve. Finished the stop where we worked on taking some photos to the inhabitants of the village, children and homes, the journey takes, the sky and during the pause had become dark gray, water begins to download, thank goodness that we are on the road and not we are visiting a monument, the coach protects us from the tropical rain. We stop at a restaurant for lunch, we are on the edge of a green valley and the distant hills you can see the end of our journey. The Burmese kitchen offers soup, chicken with peanuts, duck, vegetables, fruit. Even today, as yesterday, Sandro and I eat with sticks of bamboo. After the lunch, go up on the bus again and along the tropical forest. After 40 minutes, reach the village of Kinpun (154 - M110), where the bus stops. Down and we go at a higher pitch, the sides of the platform are parked trucks, which have been placed box of wooden boards that serve as the seat. Position our backpacks in a cage placed in the bottom of the truck and try to take their places on this unique vehicle. As we Europeans highest of Indochinese our legs long struggle to find the right position between the narrow boards that serve as the seat. Rose on all trucks and 30's start, the road is tortuous and concrete, you do not see anything, we all tossed and dall'andatura Consequently caused by the irregular bottom. The first row is placed in standing and looking over the roof of the cab of the truck notifies the other passengers as the road is a continuous curve to the right, curve left, uphill, downhill, "jump" ... behind, the screams mixed with laughter, makes unforgettably enjoyable trip. Crossed other trucks coming down, then a stop at an inspection site, where the road becomes a narrow sense will alternate running. Opportunity to make photos to the group seated on the axle box truck. Resume the climb, the road is very narrow and winding and steep rises, at some point, the road is lined by red flowers, a bar indicates that we Yatetaung Bus Terminal (L154), the 11 miles of trail were covered in 45 minutes of time. Among the hills, we find a huge yard, truck stops, and taking us down our backpacks we are preparing to make the last stretch of climb that separates us from the Rocky gold over 200 meters in altitude. At the center of the square are parked trucks used to transport pilgrims to the sides, there are huts with shops, bars and stopping points for those who want to rest. The square is animated by the carriers whose unmistakable blue shirt, offered to carry bags and backpacks of pilgrims who want to climb the Rock of gold. For those who have trouble along the steep road, carriers offer a service of a sedan, a deck chair supported by two sturdy bamboo canes. Someone in the group takes advantage of the service, the contracted price and return the other hand, the contract price for backpacks or suitcases, and carriers that rely on nyuszus with bamboo, they start to rise quickly. The group begins to climb, the climb is steep now show, in a short time, the compactness of the group will parade. While going up, crossed the trucks entering and leaving premises carrying pilgrims, for safety reasons, given the way the service is reserved only for the Burmese, in fact the trucks are overloaded and carrying many more people of the 30 planned. Going along the way meet the newsstands with statues of Buddha, places of refreshment, Sellers. At each step we are constantly assaulted by carriers seeking to negotiate the price and accept a ride in a sedan, and the cemented road, salt and sometimes it is very steep.
After a bend s'intravede the goal, and the Rocky gold appears ever more clearly. The decline began, and the Rock is colored golden rays of the sun. It continues to rise, the insistence of the carriers and continues as you climb the price drops. At a bend that turns right, opens on the left, a dirt road that is less steep as the previous one, and passes between huts is used to stores to homes in a short time we arrive at a concrete staircase with a bow at the end of with iron written in Burmese, we are at the end of the climb. Continue along the flat road that leads to the hotel, we are always surrounded by carriers that time trying to negotiate the price for the return. In a few tens of meters of the hotel where we come we come with the very welcome and warm green tea, the drink is really a blessing after the climb done with this heat and humidity. We leave the backpacks in the lobby of the hotel and continue in the direction of the Rock of gold, now it is evening. Approach the top of the hill, which is a sacred place, we must take off their shoes and walk barefoot, we proceed on a floor of polished marble and a short distance we reach the Rocky golden valley looks imposing.
The legend tells that the rock is maintained by a hair of Buddha, in fact, the rock appears on the verge of the valley below. This is one of the greatest places of pilgrimage for Buddhists, closer to the Rocky golden try to take some photos at night and given the hour, we decide to return to the hotel, are coming of low clouds that envelop everything and increase the already considerable moisture. Before returning to the hotel, take a short tour among the stalls of the marketplace and some hotels for the pilgrims.
Return to the hotel, there are assigned the rooms are very small and humid. 20: 30 dinner is served in the dining room looking out toward the Rocky golden dinner is Burmese / Chinese, lentil soup, chicken, fish, vegetables, rice noodles el'immancabile boiled rice. Dinner spends between talk, you ridacchia for the conditions of the rooms, those who have found mushrooms, about a frog that of dragonflies, of whom GECHI ....
Return in the room and try to sleep, the fan in operation should bring a little relief, and I think: "Who knows if my suitcase will arrive? Here the humidity is high and the exchange rate now is dirty, I must find a way to wash it ... "

Bago

Hellish night, high humidity, the fan is noisy and moist air moves only when it shut us think outside the cicadas to keep us awake and ending when the cicadas start people on the way back from Rocky gold to noise. Pilgrims who are stationed in the evening before the holy place and slowly descending toward s'avviano.
To 5.30, with a knock at the door of the room, comes the alarm invites us to get up to go and see the rising sun lights up the Rock with gold. We dress and go, always barefoot on the top of the hill, at this marble floor that covers the hill is slippery and cold, one must be careful to walk. The rising sun is hidden by clouds, but slowly has the upper hand and illuminates all the heat starts to take away the cold damp night by the clothes and bones.
On an altar placed in the immediate vicinity of the Rock of gold, many pilgrims offer food, some of them leave the top of the mountain and others arrive, is a continuous path of people go.
Return to the hotel, preparing for the backpack down, breakfast and then we start, we meet down in the many pilgrims who climb, close to the homes / shops, intrigued by dozens of jars, I will see what to sell, besides the classic souvenir, there are many products of medicine and / or folk tradition, the bones of various animals, various oils, potions, drinks, roots and all things suitable to treat and / or alleviate the disease and / or improve performance some purely masculine.
The climb to the evening before seemed steep it is confirmed in its reality, the descent is challenging and after about an hour after departure, the group is in the plain of Yatetaung Bus Terminal where you pay the bearers of nyuszus and sedan. Here, the bargaining has never end, asking increasingly raising thousands and thousands of excuses and the weight of the person, the heat, thirst, humidity, etc., etc., but are just ways to extort more money. These carriers are insatiable leeches who are still keeping silent only the price the previous day.
The group is recomposes, take a truck and quickly walk the 11 km that take us back to the valley where we find the coach that has been repaired and we leave for the city of Bago. Along the way we stop in the village of Woo, a fishing village, situated along a river, where we can observe the different types of fish caught and the various processing stages of curing.
It arrives in the city of Bago and we stop to visit the Shwemawdow Paya (L145 - M109), even this great pagoda has 4 entrances, the central stupa entirely gilded with its 114 meters. is the highest in Burma, raised several times over the centuries and many times destroyed by several earthquakes, seems impressive today and mammoth. Near the stupa there is a museum where they kept the photos of recent years, as well as other precious relics of temples destroyed during the centuries.
Outside the museum we sit on benches placed under a huge tree, Soso says that the fruit of that tree are used by the monks of brown dye for their clothes. In fact, the clothing of religious pieces are made with other fabrics sewn together, and to avoid possible polychrome, everything is colored with brown vegetable dye extracted from the fruits of the tree, the color is so strong that it covers any other color.
Continuing round the pagoda looking chapels and temples with statues and depictions of the life of Buddha. At the base of the stupa is a visible piece of the end, disastrous earthquake collapsed in 1937. In the temples and stupas see close to the glass case that serves as a collection of offers made for the feast of the full moon, festival where the monks pray continuously day and night for donors of tenders.
Let the Shwemawdow Paya quickly and we head towards the Hintha Gon Paya (L146 - M109)), a pagoda, originally animist, which is celebrated the feast of the spirits, the Burmese tradition spiriti 37 states, and during the various ceremonies and rituals , effeminati and women serve as a medium. The structure is situated on a hill and always barefoot, climb to the temple, where a deafening music and repetitive welcomes us, are men and women dancing to the sound of that music. We continue and visit the top of the temple, where the center is an altar with gilded bronze sculptures that represent 2 birds, which are the symbol of the city of Bago, surrounded by a series of statues of Buddha. Some pictures at the altar and the panorama of the city and the impressive golden stupa of Shwemawdow Paya; to exit retrace the steps of access and the bus we head towards the restaurant for the lunch break, spring rolls, soup with eggs quail, chicken, duck, prawns, vegetables, fruit.
Leave to continue the tour, on the outskirts of town we stop at Kyiak Pun Paya (L146 - M108), a temple with 4 statues of Buddha sitting in the back, 3 statues are decorated and the fourth is remaking. At the entrance of the temple some kids dressed as bear, calling of tenders.
We leave the city and we head towards Yangon, Soso said that the missing suitcase arrived at the hotel, the news makes me happy, because I was planning to purchase clothing to continue the tour.
In the way back to Yangon I see the houses, some are made with bamboo stilts, others are piles of wood and there are very few brick houses. We stop at a factory in earthenware pots, a handicraft typical of the place, inside a hut see the whole process of manufacture of the vases. Lathe with a hand the clay is shaped and has a jar original form, is then finished by hand, we see the smooth processing and to beautify the jar. Then for seven days, it is dried under a canopy, and is placed in the kiln for firing, which lasts three days. In the store are sold many jars of every shape and size, in simple clay or lined with colorful ceramic.
The pots are often used in homes Burmese, round ones are used as containers where water is always fresh; bucati the jars are used for flower pots with various other forms have a more or less noble.
Leave and arrive in Yangon, we return to the hotel where I find the bag, a nice bath, I rarely change, and I: Wear clean clothes is a nice feeling. Dinner buffet at the hotel, where surprise is the excellent and good piadina sweet. After dinner, we remain a little in the lobby to revisit the experiences in these first days, then we go to rest.

To Lake Inle - 1st part

Alarms and preparation of cases, we start for the interior of the country, whom the group may leave them with some clothes that do not serve for the continuation of the tour, will take your bags a few days to our return to Yangon before leaving for the Cambodia. In the afternoon we have a direct flight to the city of Heho in northern Burma, to devote the morning to visit the capital further.
The first stop we make is a square where there is an octagonal Pagoda, one of a kind, that was "saved" during the construction of a long avenue from the English, who have ruled Burma for decades. It was the Anglo-Saxon tradition, for roads, cut all the went on the trip but the pagoda was a sacred place, and then a delegation went to London by Queen Victoria to explain the reasons for respecting the venue, Regina ordered that the pagoda was left. Today, the pagoda is adjacent to a square and a park where the monument to independence. In this same square is the building of the municipality. Let the coach and continue on foot through the streets of the city since Saturday morning there is not much traffic and walking well. Passing in a neighborhood characterized by colonial buildings, we see the court, some banks and then a visit to the Strand Hotel (L107 - M97), a luxury hotel outside of colonial origin, recently renovated, offers 23 richly decorated rooms, the cost of which varies from 475 to $ 1000 per night.
Heading in the bus and we head to the river port of Sin Oan where I see all sorts of boats, from barges to transport goods, passenger boats, to the simple and light wooden boats for the crossing of the River. The water is brown, but this does not avoid that is used for cleaning staff: swimming in the river is a natural thing for many people. On the dock are parked vans and trucks of all kinds used for the carriage of goods, there are also many stores, the symbol of this commercial port which is only 45 km from the sea. In port, on the benches, we see the poorest part of Burma, and some people Malvestiti malpulite sleeping settle or are the few things I have.
We leave the port to board the bus and we head to visit a monastery for Buddhist nuns. Even the nuns as the monks, live bids, but as for the monks is questua daily, for the nuns is allowed only 2 times per week, for that reason receive help from family members and donors if aid does not arrive, we have boiled rice and dried fish. Arriving at the monastery, we can see that today is a special day is the birthday of a lady and her donation, allowing the nuns to have lunch. Inside the monastery, in the dining room, the food is served on round tables are very low and the nuns for lunch must sit on the floor, the food is prepared in common plates from which the diners, 6 for the table, draw. Tomato sauce, shrimp with peanuts and vegetables are served at table, rice is placed in individual dishes: everything becomes cold; badminton hall and only a few flies on the tables of donors, there are protections for the same. At eleven, in single file, came the nuns, all wearing their coat color pink, the hair is shaved, age is indistinguishable. Coming into the refectory, we accommodate the tables, the seats are preassigned and each has its plate marked with a name or a symbol. Lunch begins with community prayer of thanksgiving for the donors. The only dish that is served hot is a vegetable soup, which taken from a huge pot with a mix is poured into bowls of the people.
The nuns to leave their lunch and make a trip to the monastery, transit to the dispensation where they stacked some bags of rice which will serve a few days without donations, continuing through the corridors outside the rooms giving and going to the first floor of arrival at the temple Buddha, the rectangular room is placed above the refectory, the floor is of teak wood, the sides of the doors are entering a lot of light, a balcony running around the structure. Opposite the entrance stands above the altar with the statue of Buddha, on the walls of the rectangular paintings depict episodes from the life of Buddha. The sides of the hall, placed between the doors of the small tables on which to study in a cabinet located on the left wall there is a small library with copies of the three sacred texts of Buddhism: the history, the commandments, meditation.
Returning to the entrance of the monastery, the nuns to leave their lunch in the company of benefactor and we head to the restaurant for lunch, just the 11.30 but, having to take the plane, we must have lunch soon.
Burmese restaurant in the sample, lentil soup, pork, spicy prawns, watercress, eggplant with onions, rice and fresh fruit (papaja, watermelon and melon white). A curiosity Burmese linked to the table, I noticed that there are only fork and spoon, the knife is never set on the table. It 'also true that I eat with chopsticks, but looking at Soso fork to eat with spoon and wonder why the lack of knives, and I explained that the Burmese, having a kitchen like the Chinese, where the food is chopped in the kitchen, using fork and spoon, or chopsticks in China. At the end of the dinner are served in tamarind candies, is a digestive, but three are .... laxative. Then a news story that seems to be incredible: there is the espresso! Not the usual coffee, but an espresso and Italian will be good advantage: the taste is good.
After the lunch we depart in the direction of the airport and just before, in a military zone, we stop to watch two albino elephants; ll color is pink, similar to that of pigs, but compared to the black skin of the other pachyderms in effect appear white. The elephants are tied with chains to the legs to prevent movement (practice used by other people to domesticate the elephant) and are released only at night.
We arrive at the airport to take the flight that will take us to Heho, the structure is always a work in progress, are working to end the new part will be devoted to international flights, we head into the old part where international flights and flights national have the same input. The structure although has dated a number of effective controls, we overcome them and enter the waiting room near the "Gate 1", the room is hot, not cola areata sweat abundantly, is a real sauna. Arriva our air, is an Air Mandalay ATR 2 (owned by the son of the president of Burma), after some ten minutes c'imbarchiamo, the plane is completely empty at the disposal of our group, we are prepared for take-off when The airplane returned to the airport, two technicians with worried expression boarding and go quickly in the cockpit, leaving after a little smile, finally takes off. From top villages and homes are surrounded by palm trees, all around the eye can see the green rice fields, where, since the rice is almost ready for harvest. Every now and in the villages and the countryside seems some shiny golden pagoda. Rivers and canals criss-cross and mark the ground, the water is always flowing brown color due to erosion of the soil.

To Lake Inle - 2nd part

After a few minutes of flight shows a blue lake, it seems incredible after so much water brown. Extended from above is a flat, some hills criss-crossed by dirt roads whose brown stands out in shades of green, miles of forest each other by highlighting a myriad of blue lakes and rivers brown. The eye is lost in this sequence is repetitive and poetic, a river from which a channel of derivation, the rice and then the edge begins the forest, then another river, the other channels are also rice fields and forest, finally ..... .
During the flight the aircraft at our disposal, allowing the group's up in various chat, Italians always have the great ability to be cheerful.
Flying over a river gravity dam, the lake is dispersed in the surrounding hills into a thousand jagged rigagnoli into banks, seems to have the forms of a Chinese dragon. Near a mountain completely covered with forest, we begin the descent, the terraces are planted with rice, then the earth changes hue, the brown of the earth looks different, the rice fields give way to cultivated fields, with their yellow form beautiful scene sesame fields are in bloom, others plowed fields infuse the landscape of various hues and pleasing to see. Landed at Heho where he just finished the rain, to our right the clouds are black, while the left, the sky is clear, the asphalt is completely wet, we hope to go in the direction of the nice weather.
We are in the state of Shan, Soso says that in Myanmar there are 37 ethnic groups and our tour will meet 6th Leaving the airport, walk down a road between fields that appear because of flooding of rice fields, this year the monsoon has brought so much rain and flooded areas are very extensive.
While we travel, the guide tells us that the only monuments of today we have arrived at the pagoda, the only structures built using the bricks and all the other buildings were any, dwellings, monasteries and even the royal palace were built in wood ; deterioration over time, earthquakes and fires have done so only very few structures that come to our days.
We make a stop at the monastery of Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung (L191 - M169), a structure of the eighteenth century. constructed entirely of teak wood. Oval windows are children of monks, began to rain and we have to leave their shoes outside to accede to the monastery, I begin to understand the usefulness of slippers infradito used by the Burmese. Climb a ladder of cement made slippery by rain and access in the monastery, we see a statue of Buddha surrounded by gilded wood colored mirrors. A blackboard on the wall shows the tenders received and the names of donors, we also read of Italians. Leave the temple, which continues to rain, so we have to wear jackets to wind to avoid wetting. Near the monastery there is a masonry building is the Temple of Yan Shwe Pye (L191 - M169) with internal polychrome contains 999 statues of Buddha. Originally the statues were made of marble and alabaster, but following depredations today remain the only original niches in which were placed statues of modern and niches at the base of the name of the donor. The building consists of several rooms, a chapel is covered with glass and polychrome decorations side are partially original. The interior walls, full of niches containing the statues of Buddha, are colored in red with gold decorations, while at the top of the wall are pictures with a colored glass mosaic.
We leave the building and go up the bus while it seems that the rain is ending, the sky is gray and gloomy glimpses of appearing blue.
We head towards the Inle Lake, we arrive in the town of Nyaungshwe (L189 - M169), where, at a bridge, the paved road ends, the town is completely flooded. People walk in addition to high-end life, the houses are submerged, the boats plying the streets instead of cars, it seems to be in Venice, but here we are in complete tragedy. From the coach's vision seems almost unreal, some laughs as you see, although tourists and protected by the coaches, we are now seeing a flood that submerged much of the country.
The bus will stop, turn hard to the left, proceed along a dirt road flanked by right and left huts by a channel. At a crossroads stop your car, go and see a body of water with the boats blue, I think they are our new means of transport instead of our boats are moored close by, are colored red. The boats have a keel very slightly tapered and the draft, each carries 5 people plus the driver, the boats are based on a diesel engine manufactured in Burma. Climb on them, and we slowly away from the shore to the peaceful waters of Lake Inle, what looked like a simple sheet of water was the part north of the lake, 22 km long and 11 wide. We start browsing a few minutes before sunset, we start swaying a little, but as the boat gains pace, the stability increases. The air is fresh, the memorable scenery at the side of the lake rising to circle the mountain, the first brown waters, as we follow the lake turn green, reflect the color of the surrounding mountains, cross a village surrounded by piles aquatic grasses and we follow a series of canals crossed by wooden boats. I tourists seem to miss the orientation, but the locals of the various channels and knows the most hidden secrets. Sailing pass near piles, soon after crossed the boats of fishermen, the silence of the lake is only interrupted by the roar of the diesel engine that drives the boat, traveling to the dawn night, the pungent air, the light that plants plane disappears, it seems to be living in a poem and crossing other boats, we bounce on the waves sailing in calm waters of the lake. With the boat next step to aquatic herbs that seem to make the flower beds where the appearance of pink bluebells and hyacinths blue water. Here comes the sun, the lake seems to want to give us a wonderful welcome to the wonderful things that we will see in the following days, on a canoe across the first local oarsman who rows with only the right leg, a characteristic of the Intha people, "sons of the lake" ( M167) is unique in the world, to carry a boat, this is possible because the Inle Lake was calm and placid waters.
Navigating to the hotel takes 30 minutes or more, remain in the memory of the green mountains, the sky gray, the colors of the pink of the beautiful sunset in the distance a flash enlightens the lake, maybe rain. Of lights placed near the shore indicate a shift and helmsman headed the boat toward the dock of the hotel, we stop and descend on the pier by boat, we are in the hotel and we are greeted with a welcome cocktail and even the mosquitoes are just one welcome, but a spray of repellent solves the problem. Take the room key, we are housed in a cottage located on the lake, the rooms are small houses of wood and bamboo, very nice and spacious with a balcony that directly on the lake, the beds with mosquito nets are designed so that during the sleep insect bite. The air in the room is warm and moist, open the windows protected by mosquito nets, leaving a circular bit of fresh air.

To Lake Inle - 3rd part

I have 1.30 hours of rest before dinner, I take this opportunity to place the diary noting the comments and the feelings experienced in navigation. Then a beautiful and refreshing shower, and I dedicate it to the reading of the sites seen during the day, plus a look at the program tomorrow.
20: 30 we go to the restaurant, situated on the hill adjacent to the lake, the table is made with flat lacquer, dinner is characteristic of the area;. Sheets of fried appetizers, rice, soy with sesame seeds, chicken with almonds, peanuts, vegetables, small leeks and spicy, sweet.
Leave the restaurant and the lake we head towards the cottage, the sky was starry and given the latitude is difficult to identify the constellations known, I will contemplate the beauty of the night in total silence that reigns over the lake.
Within in the room and leave the windows open to circulate air, the bed covered by mosquito nets promises sleep restorer, coming from the lake to the noises of the night, you hear the frogs croak, a flying insect that hits the screens; of Diving of animals in the waters of the lake as the backdrop to sleep that is coming.

Lake Inle - 1st part

At 6.00 we are awakened by music from a village in the vicinity of the place, then discover that it is a local festival, the revival can see the first lights on the lake. The sky is cloudy and gray, the clouds are very low and cover the tops of mountains, not so long that we expect during the day, but if you see the good in the morning, it might even rain.
E 'Sunday Mass, breakfast and departure by boat for a tour of the lake that will last all day, check the sun behind the mountains and try to take off in the clouds, the lake is colored according to the light receives, sometimes gray, sometimes green, at other points is blue. For nearly an hour sail on calm waters, and while we travel we see the floating gardens, we see the fishermen and farmers who collect seaweed from the bottom of the lake that will serve as the basis for the fertile gardens. Cross villages where the piles, although high, are flooded, the depth of the lake is usually 4.5 m, but as a result of abundant rains in the water these days over 7m. We leave the lake and we go into a tributary where the water is brown, winding along the river we arrive at a dock for boats, we Indien (L197 - M173), a village located on the right bank of the river that we are going up, let the boats and on foot through the village through to the local marketplace, we pass near a primary school and we arrive at the beginning of a wooden porch supported by 403 columns of white stone on each side. Under the porch are spread dozens of stalls set out with local products and souvenirs, around hundreds of small pagodas. Along the colonnade outside we see the tombs belong to the simple monks, in the past were only buried their heads while the monks were cremated. The complex of pagodas dating back to the eighteenth century., Is a total of 1045. There is a main temple, temples and stupas are arranged laterally, scattered on the hill, and also to create a green network of some brown peaks (those to be restored), some white and some gold, the show is unique and the view is lost in the midst of so charming beauty. The pagoda, originally, all had a light yellow decor made with pozzolana (a natural sand), at present time, earthquakes and tombaroli have destroyed much of which is still visible a "leopard spot". The pagodas exist, the bulk of which are small temples, have been subject to predation by the tombaroli and looters, who looking for treasures and relics were removed or damaged the statues inside the structures, but all this does not diminish the undisputed charm of the place. On the walls of the temples and above the doors are statues that represent angels guardians to protect, the statues with different figures, symbols represent various dating to different eras and cultures. Climbing the hill we come to the main temple, built in the twelfth century. Burmese in style, all around are dozens of gilded stupa recently restored, and the foundation of every stupa there is the name of the donor. The temple is made at T reversed, the front entrance is where the altar is placed a statue of Buddha, left, compared to entry, there is an altar decorated with colored glass and mirrors, with other statues of Buddha, a right output allows access to the other side stupa. The walls of the temple are decorated with polychrome glass and mirrors, at the top of the walls are paintings depicting the life stories of Buddha, and the ceiling is red with gold decoration, the floor is of ceramic tiles on which are out of mats bamboo. Soso says that mirrors placed behind the statues of Buddha serves as a reflection of itself and its own actions, therefore in order to reflect in the mirror without shame, we must have and maintain good behavior.
Leave the temple and we head to the base of the hill along the long colonnade covered, know that the stalls have increased, they came good now traders had not yet set up to our arrival. The stalls are typical products of local crafts such as lacquer containers with bas-reliefs, while knives, playing with pearls, silver and objects of lacquer decorated, come from other parts of the country.
Riattraversiamo through the village and near the school, we see the children enjoying the range and throughout the world their desire to play and laugh is unmistakable. We arrive in the vicinity of the boats and waiting for the group we stop at a kiosk for a drink of coconut milk, fresh, tasty and refreshing. Someone in the stalls was buying, and I do look, I see the nice shirts I buy to take home.
Climb on boats and along the river into the lake we return after half hour navigation we arrived near a village where imponente appears Phaung Daw Oo Paya (L197 - M172), a temple with a square red roof decorated with iron golden, degrading on seven levels and on top of a very high gilded hti that seems lost in the sky.
Inside the temple, the ceiling is completely lacquered in red and decorated with gold, the walls are paintings depicting events from the life of Buddha, at the center a small altar with 5 statues, three Buddha and two monks. The statues covered with millions of leaves of gold over the years, now seem completely deformed, are a mixed storage of gold. Near the temple, under a shed is a boat moored black with golden decorations, is the boat which is used for the feast of the lake, which has just ended. The festival originated in the very distant future, the five original statues were transported all over the bow of the boat where riding around all the villages of the lake stopped a whole night; usanza still present, and there are 20 villages, the festival lasts 20 days.
In 1956 during the festival, a storm did sink the boat that transported the statues, immediately began the search of the statues sunk, but despite efforts from the bottom ripescare were only four of the five statues, lacked the smallest. Calar At night, when reported the four statues at the temple, they found on the fifth, wet and dirty debris of the lake, as there had come so far is something inexplicable.
In 1957 during the celebration of the lake, the statue just left the temple, suddenly a thunderstorm broke out and people, remembering what happened the previous year, decided to restore the statue in the temple, when the statue was deposited on the altar, the storm ceased, from that year during the festival are carried in pilgrimage only four other statues.
Under the temple is a market for local crafts, there are agricultural tools, knives, cloths, bags and shirts.
Leaving the complex, the water of the lake reflects the blue sky, the lake side of the green mountains are the setting in the sky some white cloud, the sun is really hot, the climate is ideal for browsing.

Lake Inle - 2nd part

Let the crowds of the temple and after a few minutes by boat, arrive in a quiet area made up of piles of wood and bamboo, is the restaurant, a beautiful and welcoming structure which allows us to observe some good aspects of the lake.
Advantage of the pause to ask Soso of explanations on the construction of the piles, since the morning I noticed in bamboo houses with straw roofs and wooden houses with tin roof. The guide tells me that the houses are seen the two different styles of houses, one is constructed entirely of bamboo, the poles supporting the exterior walls, the poles have a duration of 6 years and the walls for a period of 3 years, the windows, in most cases, are also made of bamboo mats.
The wooden houses are made of teak poles and walls in a local wood, the duration of these houses is about 50 years, and avoids a continuous maintenance also allows you to have windows in wood and glass.
The bamboo has a heat function, allowing the walls to maintain a cooler microclimate during the summer and retains less moisture during the rainy period.
Taking advantage of the skill and patience of Soso, I like to achieve the floating vegetable gardens that I have seen previously, and I explained that to achieve the farmers, stuck in the bottom of the lake of long bamboo canes which must escape from the surface of the lake, forming the poles firm on whose support the algae taken from the fund, which will form the basis of "earthly" creating a very fertile layer. Once the layer assumes the consistency result in that other frames are bamboo canes used as support for growing vegetables or flowers. As the garden floating on the lake, the "peasants" move only on boats for all the work of cultivation.
The explanation is interrupted by the lunch is being served, chicken with peanuts, pork, zucchini, fish, spaghetti, rice, white rice, the.
After the lunch we resume sailing boats known and full of people who are flooded with the house move are unusable at the monasteries or from relatives.
Continuing our tour of the lake, we arrive at some piles interconnected with wooden piers, we are a center of weaving where craftsmen produce fabrics in cotton and silk, the silk comes from Mandalay, here is woven and colored. All stages of dyeing, weaving and the creation of the designs are purely handmade, for the color of the colors used are natural products produced from the bark and roots. Turn for the buildings noting that women with frames of wood, fabrics create drawings varied and colorful. In a building we see a unique work of its kind: the creation of a thread using the stems of lotus flowers, are made of bundles of stems and cut into pieces about 10 cm long, from here extract a filamentous resin that creates a unified thin wire, this wire is dried and then processed. To create a fabric of 200 x 30 cm. need 22,000 stems. This precious fabric, was once used for the clothes of the statues of Buddha, today fabrics are produced for the Japanese market, where demand is very strong. The final fabric is rough, pale hazelnut clear, has a very high heat and the cost is almost twice as much as a fine silk fabric.
We leave the building and walking on wooden piers that connect the buildings, take a walk among the piles, at some point we find a word "espresso", but it will be true or is un'allucinazione? Taken by doubt and curiosity, while some woman is in the shop to see the fabrics products, others in the group go in search of the precious black drink, and like all fairy tales, the happy ending arrives, it is a bar with coffee machine and the beverage served is good.
Having tasted the coffee, take the boat, passing through villages and orchards we head towards floating Nga hpe Chaung (L196 - M170), the "Monastery of the cat jumping."
Berths and getting off the boat we are about to visit the facility, inside the temple, the altars are kept in wood from other temples, the clustering of so many altars, seem to make it a unique and unparalleled museum of sacred art dell'etnia Shang. The altars are in gilded wood, finely worked, embellished with colored mirrors. In addition to the altars, there are ancient statues of Buddha, statues are wooden, there are some gold and other colors, all typical of the Shang (recognizable by the earrings and jewelry present). Near the statue there is a throne where sits a monaco during the celebrations of the temple.
Nearby, on a series of floor mats indicate the place where a monaco blasts cats (hence the origin of the name of the monastery), invented an attraction for most tourists and faithful, and the cats are "invited" to jump in a circle kept at about 80 cm above the ground, where the cat jumps is rewarded with food. Given the size of cats, they must be good at jumping into the circle and the food is not lacking.
The monastery was built in 1843 is entirely made of wood measuring 60 by 40 meters, the floor is completely made of laminated teak, the roof is supported by over 200 columns of teak worked. The sloping roof has three layers, originally had five levels, but this does not reduce the beauty of the place, the entire roof is decorated with wooden tables designed with episodes from the life of Buddha.
Back to the boat and return to the hotel passing through the village of Kye Za Gong, completely surrounded by floating gardens. Gardens arranged in long rows, are surrounded by calm water, all around the "walls" made of aquatic grasses creates a barrier impenetrable to boats and waves s'infrangono on the walls to protect the gardens. Within the water is calm, this allows farmers to work quietly on their wooden boats for cultivating vegetables and flowers. It 'really unusual to see lines on the green with bamboo lattice on which grow tomatoes, zucchini and flowers.
A particularly attracts my attention, tomatoes are not brought to full maturity, are harvested unripe, stored in closed wooden boxes and so bring to the market. We will, a few days later, to taste these fruits fully ripe. Navigating between the villages strikes me that we are tourists and we are traveling in the center of a massive flood, a natural event that sees hundreds of displaced people: it strikes me the calm, the composure and the desire to pursue the Burmese people, truly a bell ' example for us in the West that we find it hard to live with natural events of this size.
Return in the late afternoon, I take this opportunity to put the notes and then, after a nice shower, to 20.00, dinner Burmese, fried potatoes, pork, beef, chicken, vegetables, the usual boiled rice and ... surprise ... it appears a car for espresso. After dinner some of the group spent the evening playing cards.

Lake Inle - 3rd part

Before you lie down on the block write notes the characteristics of the boats sailing in the waters of Lake Inle. The boats are of two types, the first are those used by fishermen, are about 4 meters long, from the bottom plate, the ends were flat, this allows to work comfortably on the boat and row to the head using her right leg to operate the oar, this boat is used by fishermen, for the work in the floating gardens, and as a means of transportation for families. The second boat used for transporting goods and more people, far from 8 to 10 meters, has little draft, is driven by a diesel engine which is run by a manual lever and then the number of revolutions set by a knob located on engine. The engines are simple but very functional are manufactured in Burma, the propeller is connected to the engine by a long shaft of at least three meters, which also serves as a variable speed of the boat by immersing them more or less deeply into the water. When these boats carrying tourists, are set with 5 chairs lined up on the bottom of the boat, go up one person at a time and we sat down immediately to avoid the boat to overturn, in effect having little keel boat, the possibility is not very remote.

Pindaya - 1st part

The alarm clock is at 5.15 to 5.45 bags are outside the rooms, breakfast while we do the first light of the sun light up the lake, the vision is truly evocative of red water lilies are blooming in the lake of water in front of the cottage, the sky is partly cloudy and the clouds seem that they are lowering. I hope that does not make rain because we have to take the boat to return to coach. We cross the lake to the north, as they proceed from blue water becomes brown, the long-known fishermen and lotus flowers. Near the shore, among the reed beds is the mist, strange land with the fog. Berths on the mainland and walk a dirt road that leads to the town of Nyaungshwe, where close to the market we expect the bus, while traveling on the path I see the moored fishing boats, the same download and transhipped onto the vans parked nearby, bags containing fish that will be sold to markets in nearby towns.
Climb on the bus and cross the city two days ago was completely flooded, passing through streets that were flooded, the water mark is visible on the walls of buildings. We follow the only paved road that leads to the pass and continue towards Pindaya, the distance is 80 km, the estimated travel time is 3 hours. It seems an unlikely time, but past the airport, after a few km ribbon of asphalt shrinks and becomes viable from a single vehicle, the road is full of holes and in the event of an intersection, you must use the dirt to the side instead of transit route where wagons and agricultural tractors.
The landscape is hilly rice fields have left the room for various crops, the land gives a reddish color to the landscape, the journey is enjoyable, your gaze sweeps continuously between the hills in a succession of single colors of the fields plowed and cultivated fields The red earth mixes with green and yellow crops of the fields of sesame seed, is a succession of plant, cultivated hills and rivers. We continue the journey and after two hours we arrived at the town of Taunggyi (201 - M173) with houses of cement and bricks, the huts seem gone, it's an area of farmers and traders; seems to be in another country, the houses are ordered surrounded by fenced land, the issue seems more Western Europe. We stop and take a trip to the market, fruit, fish, traditional and modern clothing (invoice Chinese), various tools. Some are purchased by the group and then again for Pindaya. The hills are green plants of pine, are about 1400 above sea level, the road continues to have the characteristics described earlier, and the traffic is intense because of the peasants and the people who go to the market, crossed tractors full of people, we see people waiting in the bus that leads to town. Each half crossed that the bus driver must slow down and putting 2 wheels on hard courts (where there are puddles of water), it crosses the other vehicle, the difficulties increase when crossed truck or bus.
Along the way, you are in the fields of farmers who are working Soso says that here, nell'etnia PAHO, males aran the field with the plow pulled by oxen, women look after all the other work of the fields, sowing, cultivation, while men give a hand just for the crop and the disinfection of plants, is a division of tasks traditionally rigid. Along the road, crossed several wagons, some people are drawn by two oxen, others lighter by a horse along the road we see an artesian well, is the only well where people can draw water, although brown in color.
After 4 hours from start to arrive Pindaya (L184 - M163), a city famous in Burma for three characteristics: the beautiful lake, the ubiquitous secular and imposing ficus plants and caves.
Approach the city deviamo left and start to climb the mountain with steep hairpin bends we head towards the Pindaya Caves (L185 - M164), Cave Pindaya. The bus takes us to the entrance where a canopy leads to the lift gate at the entrance of the cave more.
Canopy at the entrance of a statue of a giant spider, the symbol of the local legend that sees seven princesses from surprises in the cave spider, who then was killed by the prince, who freed the princess.
Close dell'ascensore abandon our shoes and go up towards the entrance of the limestone cave, 150 meters long with stalactites and stalagmites, divided into several rooms of different sizes, is home to over 10,000 statues of Buddha, statues are bigger 8094. The statues of all sizes, most are of gilded stucco and masonry, others are of wood, alabaster, of lacquer, marble, some are blackened by the smoke of candles, almost all the statues are covered with gold leaves . In a room, close to the floor, there is a cavity, a short, narrow hallway leads to another room with the statues of Buddha, is a place of meditation for monks. Going from room to room we see a wooden statue of Buddha standing, other statues of lacquer that subject to dripping water cave, can not be covered with gold; ago to see a little black two statues in the midst of thousands of gilded statues . Continuing we see a huge stalactite cave, concave inside, once used as a gong (now no longer used for this function) in a anfratto there is a temple which was offered by the current government, and frankly is a little parcels and the harmony of stone statues found in the oldest ages. In a cave was built a small pagoda, we see an altar dedicated to a monaco hermit who lives on a river and that during the period of rains, is called in the villages to stop the rain and prevent flooding (and it seems that sometimes his intercession functions). In the caves the dripping water is continuous, the floor is slippery, and having to walk barefoot, we must put a lot of attention.
Emerge from the cave that it rains, fortunately the roof protects us, all around the mountain we see a succession of shelters which are leading to several smaller caves, each cave contains some 200 statues of Buddha.
Return the lift that brings us to the base, get the shoes and descend the stairs for access, where in the square near the bus waiting for us, it's raining and we use the umbrellas to get pertaining to. Shortly after it stops raining and I appreciate the comfort of slippers infradito used by the Burmese, even if you bathe your feet in a few minutes to dry.
The bus leaves the mountain and is close to the city on the outskirts of Pindaya we stop to visit a factory of traditional umbrellas made from bamboo frame, the spokes are made of mulberry and the fabric is cotton. Here manufacture of fans also made with mulberry paper and fabric, bamboo, all products are decorated by hand using natural dyes. The laboratory is pervaded by an acrid smell, is the glue that is used in various stages of processing. Here is an artisan working with a lathe pedal, some pieces of bamboo for the umbrellas.

Pindaya - 2nd part

Pindaya is known not only for the features above, including the cultivation of tea and coffee, is the only area of the country where the coffee plant is the ideal habitat for growth. We stop for lunch in a restaurant name from the Latin "Memento," we are offered sheets of fries, soup beans, fish, beef, chives, carrots with mozzarella di bufala, the usual white rice, like a banana fruit red ( very sweet and delicate), the desserts are delicious cookies with sesame seeds and butter. Finally, given the publicity of Lavazza, present on the table, enjoy a good espresso.
To find other Italian restaurant, is a pair Tuscan honeymoon, a few words with our fellow countrymen and then start, the time is threatening, I have the impression that the rain will return. We are slightly behind schedule and we arrive at Heho to take the flight to Mandalay, and after two hours of travel, we arrive at the airport. Descend from the coach and the shirts will affix a sticker of Mandalay Air, Check-in is very fast, Soso distributes tickets and after controls access to the waiting room, where the inputs are separate for men and women. In the hall the other passengers waiting for their flight, a man hears and Italian approaches, is a father of PIME missionary, born in Bormio, and has lived 32 years in Thailand. E 'on Heho to teach seminarians theology and philosophy, is now returning for a short period Tahilandia and then come back and finish the year teaching here residence permits are not very long and needs to continually go out and return to their country . We discover that the Catholics in Burma are more than 700,000 divided into 13 dioceses, which is really surprising in a country with a strong Buddhist faith.
The airport is very busy, three ATR 42 are still on the runway, two and two come off, really unusual for airports to date visa and completely different from the devastation of two days ago when landing our plane was the only one present in .
Off and I see, not far away, the hills that surround the Inle Lake, one last look at the lake and then the plane turns right, others are landscapes, are cultivated hills crossed by canyons, deep well, dug by water, red soil eroded by water appears to be glaring wounds among the green fields and forest, the flight is short, just over a mountain range begins the descent. Soso during the return from Pindaya, we had reported that the road to Mandalay is impracticable because of flooding that destroyed bridges, and even the city is partially submerged by water, but until a few days ago, military trucks were used to carry tourists to the city.
Landing and take the bus, we leave and we head towards the city, the track will take at least 1 hour. Mandalay is a city where the contrast with the poor is evident, the city has been "invaded" by the Chinese who trade in precious stones, they obtained the lease from the government for 60 years of land in the mountains to look for emeralds, rubies and other precious stones, and over time have transformed Mandalay in their shopping center, the same merchants have set up chains of stores selling clothes and where Chinese products imported by them and, until recently the opium was not excluded from their trades . Currently, the social gap between wealth and poverty is visible in very clear.
Leaving the airport we travel on a paved road and beautiful, when we see the side shacks and tents are the homes of people flooded luck. Near the bridge the road is blocked by water, turn left and take a secondary road that passes the outskirts of the city, the poorest town. Along the way, there are continuously tents and shacks of luck, perhaps hundreds or thousands of people piled seamlessly. People are cooking on the fire on board a little way behind and have the mats to lie down to rest, around pots and furniture recovered from their homes submerged by over a meter of water. Life is really sad in those conditions, side by side with people all sorts of animals, cattle, horses, pigs, goats, ducks. Shortly before 19, arriving in the city, passing a huge moat, over two kilometers long is the moat of the Royal Palace of Mandalay (L244 - M139). The city wall is over 1.6 kilometers long on each side, has four entries and three doors on each side. Originally, each side had a specific function, the South was the entrance to the Kings and Kingdoms, north entry to the monks, to the east entrance was to the people and visitors, and finally the west side was reserved to 'output for the dead inside the royal palace. The building was wooden and was completely destroyed during a bombing during the Second World War.
After more than two hours after departure from the airport, we arrive at the hotel, a modern and hospitable that seems almost unreal compared to the camps we have just seen.
Dinner buffet and then retreat into the room, my room has a view of a hill from which I see, on its top, a golden pagoda and enlightened. I fall asleep thinking of the people I care that can not share with me this vision.

Mandalay - 1st part

The awakening is taken up by the sun that lights up the hill where the pagoda, the contrast between the glittering gold of the pagoda and the green of the forest covering the hill is really strong. Descend to the breakfast buffet, everything is cooked really well, jams, cakes, salted foods, fruits, coffee seppur "begin" allows you to start the day. Shortly after the bus go up and leaves for another day by tourists. During the handling Soso says that the rules of Buddhism are written in 40 books that the monks should know by heart, since the total knowledge is difficult, there is a "ladder of knowledge" with its privileges. Anyone familiar with a book in memory can run on buses for free, knowing that two can travel by boat to free one who knows all and 40 books, runs the world-expenses-paid by the state of Burma. Best monks are often invited by wealthy individuals, to stay in hotels more luxurious and, in fact, the night before a monaco s'aggirava where we were staying at the hotel with an accompanying cloud of people.
Col coach we are bringing to the port of Mandalay and during the journey, we see the celebration of a marriage, someone in the group falls by bus to see the ceremony, the local custom is that in exchange for a gift, which is usually in cash , the newlyweds a gift range which are given their names.
The return journey and after a few minutes we arrive at the river port where c'imbarchiamo on a boat designed to Mingun (L269 - M150), a village about 11 km from Mandalay.
While navigating the boat, he suddenly turns into a marketplace, the members of the crew and some of their family members show different merchandise, women in the group, attracted by necklaces, wall hangings, postcards, paintings, handbags, fans are given to bargain. Most merchants selling goods and more arrive on the terrace of the boat, it seems to be a bottomless pit, the last article to appear, but not entirely successful, are puppets in the traditional Burmese. For the record it is fair to say that prior to the sale of products, a part of the group was dedicated to gymnastics, a series of exercises performed on the stern of the boat "gladdened" by a hot and humid temperatures, so a thought to "our gymnastics Heroes "is more than due.
During the navigation we are on the upper terrace of the boat which is covered to protect from the sun and water, the temperature is hot and humid and, despite the boat sailing in the middle of the river, ventilation is limited, you sweat copiously. While browsing I see the islands with the cultivation of sorghum, for the production of brooms, along the river boats and barges for the collection of sand and transport of goods varies. The terrain of the area not suitable for paddy fields was dedicated to the cultivation of peanuts on the mainland soon after we will see terraces with peanuts placed to dry.
Slowly, but inarrestabilmente boat sailing in the brown waters of the river, we come closer to Mingun (L269 - M150), much along the muddy shore of the river the boat trying to dock several times and after some attempts succeed, we descend along a walkway wood and in short we reach the shore, where inevitably lie ahead of vendors products. We are moving quickly toward the monuments to visit, the first we see is the Pondaw Paya (L 270), a white model up "only" 5 mt of unfinished pagoda, whose construction is stopped until the first terrace and the impressive amount dominates the area. A short distance Pagoden access from the river, where two white leogrifi, angels in the shape of the lion and the griffin, are placed as guardians at the entrance: the Settawaya Paya (L270).
Across completely blank, with only the gilded hti, the pagoda stands nell'azzurro of the sky, creating a nice contrast, beautiful views (the color white is considered very beautiful by the Burmese, and use it to paint pagodas and stupas).
The structure is over 30 meters high, the entrance there are three staircases for access to specific functions, that for ministers or important people, one for monks and for the people. This reminds me of the division of Europe medieval monasteries, where on most plans had symbolized the roles of the time, religious, emperors and finally the people.
Inside the temple there are 4 statues of Buddha, the originals were destroyed or damaged in the course of centuries, and were replaced with statues of recent construction, near the statues of Buddha carved mark on marble and traditionally l 'nell'impronta water content is considered sacred. The imprint is engraved with all 31 floors of reincarnation, the 26 floors of the Paradise, the current plan and the 4 hells.
The king who wanted to build in the area, aimed to achieve 4 major works: the 150 meters high pagoda (unfinished), a bell (completed), the statues of lions that served as protectors Angels (completed) and a protective barrier to prevent the river flooded the area (unfinished).
Not far from Paya Settawaya with its 150 meters the Mingun Paya (L270 - M150), should have been the highest pagoda in the country, but an omen of destruction of the city had suspended its work in 1816. Three years after its builder king died. The current structure is square and is 72 meters wide, 50 meters high, built entirely filled with bricks. Over the years, earthquakes have created the glaring cracks in the structure and part of the bricks fell to the ground, the faithful have produced a staircase of 174 steps and taking the bricks from the ground, carry them on top, says that the belief is for the implementation Wish.
In front of the unfinished pagoda there are the ruins of two majestic lions, placed to protect the sacred site, the statues were 30 meters high and are the animals in the act of jumping, but as a result of earthquakes statues fell and now it remains only the rear.
Continuing through huts, stalls for tourists and devotees come to Mingun Bell (L270 - M151), a huge bell of 90 tons, built on the opposite bank of the river and transported on site by creating a raft of teak wood. E 'la playable largest bell in the world, and like all Buddhist bell is not fitted with a clapper. Made of several pieces using bronze and iron pieces were then joined together but are visible welds and the thickness of different mergers.
Mingun and continue to arrive at the entrance to Hsinbyume Paya (L271 - M151), a pagoda completely white, round, from the complex and fascinating symbolism. E 'based on 8 floors, representing the seven seas and seven mountains that must be overcome to reach the Mount Meru, the architecture is unique, from the sight of undulating structures that represent the seven seas, it is dedicated Princess Hsinbyume (which is called the pagoda). The pagoda was originally contained a statue of Buddha in emerald currently inside the temple has two statues, the first is that we see recently, while behind it is ancient.
Turn to the pagoda besieged by a group of kids who want to sell everything, trying to understand which country we come from, then when we discover that Italians, a few words to make even enough.

Mandalay - 2nd part

The attitude of these boys and their insistence they are not absolutely typical of the people of Burma, a negative effect that results in mass tourism in some locations.
Leaving the pagoda, the visit of Mingun is finished, we must return to the boat. Someone in the group decides to use the "taxi" local wagon drawn by oxen. I returned on foot and opportunity for review and the special places that before I had noticed, on my usual block, I take notes and do some design to recall what I saw.
The group is found near the river, we board the boat and we head to Mandalay, the market appears on the boat, but now we realize that the prices are higher stalls, no one buys anything. Navigation is quiet, the group of Italians to spice up the monotony of navigation.
Come to Mandalay, we take the bus and we see that the air conditioning does not work, the heat begins to be felt.
Lunch at Chinese restaurant; rolls with shrimp, vegetable soup with quail eggs, pumpkin (stuffed with chicken, crab, and vegetables), chicken with almonds, lacquered duck, beef, vegetables, rice, fish and fruit (watermelon, melon and white papaja). The restaurant placed in front of the imposing walls of the western side of the royal palace, allows a beautiful and evocative vision.
After the lunch, take the bus and see that the air conditioner just does not work. Clockwise along the walls of the royal palace and ended on the north side turn left, enter the wall of Shwenandaw Kyaung (L244 - M142), the "Monastery of the Palazzo d'Oro. This monastery is built with teak wood inlaid and gilded, are 2 rooms from 114, the royal palace, was destroyed by fire during the Second World War. The two rooms were separated survivors from the palace in 1880 by a gift from the king made a very erudite monaco.
The architecture of the building is fascinating, the structure completely in teak finely worked outside of the angels appearing to protect the building, lotus flowers and peacocks (among other things, the peacock is the symbol of Burma, is the sun and day, while the rabbit is the night and the dark). Originally the building was entirely gilded, golden shares today are visible only inside that are protected from bad weather kept the gilding. The walls of the monastery is unusual, its shape resembles a diamond.
Soso says that the monasteries were built in proportion to the ability of the monks who lived there, plus a monaco was good, more could have a beautiful monastery which is why the king off two rooms of the royal palace for the monastery.
We enter in the rooms of the monastery and golden rest blinded by such beauty, there are entirely golden cylindrical columns, the ceiling is a unique bas-relief, in the lateral walls, also worked, open windows that allow light to pass and be reflected on 'This gold, creating a continuous play of light and shadows. To a wall of the room has supported the altar of Buddha, with original glass and mirrors, the wall behind the altar is completely covered with rectangular panels with angels. The internal structure of the temple is developed from a vertical external party, then an oblique part, after a first horizontally, then a vertical wall, another slanted piece, and finally mounted terminal, all fully engraved and gilded. The altar at the sides two doors, one on each side, communicate with the second room, we passed through the right and access to the room where, near the wall that divides the two rooms are located four altars and a colonial cabinet. The altars, were originally located elsewhere, have a particular form, as two overlapping parallelepipeds, the largest parallelepiped is low and little is on, both with a well-defined, provided that under doors contained the 40 books of Buddhism and above , was placed the statue of Buddha.
Shot some photos of really beautiful wood, I leave, I call sandals, walking and Kuthodaw arrived at Paya (L243 - M141) "the greatest book in the world," the pagoda contains 729 tables of marble, each of which stored in a single chapel, inscribed on the tables are the three fundamental texts of Buddhism. To write a table requires three days of work, the words were originally written in silver, then they were written in gold and now the noble metals have been replaced with the writing in black, to avoid deterioration due to weather. The chapels containing the tablets, originally hti of bronze inlaid with precious stones and a terminal bell in gold and silver. Hti These were subtracted from the rulers of Burma over the centuries, today there are iron gilded hti.
Inside the pagoda, a golden stupa with seats to the four cardinal points six orcs to protect the character of these statues has a Chinese. Inside the pagoda there are 1771 tables of marble, even those protected by small chapels, show the three fundamental texts of Buddhism.
Inside the pagoda, a temple to see a statue of Buddha in size by a single piece of wood affixed to the front of the precious stones, the coffered ceiling was covered with gold-laminated, the altar is also gold.
Emerge from the Paya Pagoda Kuthodaw taking the bus and we head to the foot of Mandalay Hill (L239 - M140), the Mandalay Hill, leave the bus going up and pick-ups begin the long climb winding roads. We stop to see Shweyattaw Buddha (L241 - M141), the Statue of Buddha standing with an outstretched hand is the place where 2400 years after the passing of Buddha, it was a city, Mandalay, founded in 1857. Near the statue of Buddha 9.5 mt high gilded wood, a little smaller statue depicts a woman, says that the belief has cut the breasts as a sign of respect for Buddha.
Heading in the on-board pick-up and continue the climb to the top of the hill. The entire top is a sacred area with temples and trees. Also here to take pictures, as in all sacred places, we must pay. The central building of the hill is entirely covered with mirrors and colored glass. The place is full of dragonflies, Soso says that this phenomenon indicates rain, in fact there are clouds in the sky. We find a group of French tourists and their guide is the sister of Soso, we stop to greet and continue the tour.
The sunset over the city and the plains below is suggestive, the golden rays of the sun illuminate the flat plain, are reflected in the paddy fields and the flooded area by creating a single, big huge mirror as the eye can see.
Leaving the hill and on-board pick-up driving down a road other than one made up.
Return to the hotel, I go at the business center equipped with internet connection, with a little effort can send an email to friends to get my news, then leaves for dinner.

Mandalay - 3rd part

We go to a Thai restaurant for dinner and, as we enter, coincidentally crossed people who are exiting the enclosure, Fernanda recognizes a priest who was in Italy, we stop to talk a little and let us meet for the next night , then where will the clothes, a little help to continue his work, in addition to drugs taken by Italy which we had used.
Dinner passes quietly, spring rolls, fried wanton, cabbage soup with cheese, fried prawns, chicken with vegetables, vegetables, fish with vegetables, skewers of meat, white rice irreplaceable. For dessert there is a bowl with a mixture of white and green balls, corn is softened in coconut milk. It has a strange taste, but it is good. Also in this restaurant with great joy for the Italians, there is the espresso.
In local there is a group of French people stay in our hotel, 2 girls speak Italian correctly, are Como, Como is one of the other Lomazzo, long resident in France, one of them talking to Fausto discover which is the sister of a friend of Fausto: the world is really small.
After dinner, we return to the hotel, I fall asleep watching the illuminated pagoda on the hill and the shining stars in the sky.

Mandalay - Amarapura - Sagaing - 1st part

Alarm at 6.15, we are surrounded by low clouds and at night it rained, looking from the window the day appears gray, but after a few minutes by the appearance of the sun, the cloud thins out, leaving the sky clear, being announced another hot sultry day. Go for breakfast and I note that throughout the hotel are placed fresh flowers and fragrant, as well as beautify act as deodorant. At 7.30 we start with the coaches to see the statue of Buddha most famous of Burma, a sacred place and destination of many pilgrimages. A few minutes later we arrive at the Mahamuni Paya (L245 - M142), admits a colonnade at the temple where kept the bronze statue, made of six pieces from the original weight of 12 tons with its head studded with precious stones. Today, after the continued application by the faithful, of leaves of gold, the statue weighs 13 tons, nearly one ton of gold has been applied unevenly deformation, like a body full of bubonic. An ancient tradition, every day is repeated, to 4.00 each morning, the temple is opened to the faithful and 4.15 of the statue's face is thoroughly washed.
The original temple was in teak, in 1880 it was rebuilt in brick and so far has not been changed, the arches are in colonial style, the cover is entirely gilded and the top is a grid to protect the hti d 'gold potential thieves.
Women are not allowed access to the core of the temple where the Buddha's room and must remain at the sides, in addition to barriers, guards, strictly control access to the room, you should be wearing long pants and shirts to wear, headgear are not allowed. Who wears a dress not appropriate, is blocked and "invited" to wear the tunics that the attendants kindly pose. Consequently the application of gold leaf on the statue is reserved only men climbing ladders side arrive at the base of the statue so it can implement the gold.
We leave the temple and not far away, in a building we see the bronze statues are of Thai origin, of the VIII century., The result of a plunder of the war of 1784. The statues were taken to be merged to produce weapons, but the king, art lover decided to keep them for collection. Over time, the popular belief attributed to the statues of the powers guaritivi, still touching the statues in the part where you feel pain, is thought to help in healing. The result is that the statues are more smooth and shiny, in some places than others.
Originally the statues were studded with precious stones, but today there are only the grooves containing the stones.
Next, another building where there is a bronze gong from the weight of five tons, on whose back is engraved a peacock and a rabbit, and the tradition has it that the gong used for the distribution of particular merit. Located near the huge gong, which function only for decoration, are two bronze statues representing the angels, each weighing two tons.
Leaving the temple, we start the gallery that houses a marketplace of stalls where you can find statues of Buddha in various sizes, bracelets, necklaces, lacquer objects, and various merchandise. Since my sandals, the day before you are cut, I decide to buy slippers infradito for some who never even be able to dress the part of Burma? Soso us to be punctual because we missed the program, but also passing through a street market with women, amounts to a delayed "indefinitely."
Let Mahamuni Paya and exit from the city of Mandalay we stop to see the sculpture of the Buddha statues of marble, the stone comes from quarries in the mountains placed adjacent to the city. The processing is done from a single block of marble, the craftsmen, who have all the piece, under its capacity working various parts of the block, giving shape to the statue. The face is the most sensitive and is processed only by expert craftsmen. The marble work is done with hammers, chisels and flexible, men, women, boys and girls work shaping the statues without any protection for the eyes, the mouth and the nose. The powder of marble, the result of abrasion of the disk drives, envelops everything and everyone, creating a white cloud, visible from afar and making the air unbreathable. The average life of the artisans is very low due dell'asbestosi produced following the dust.
These marble statues are dedicated to pagodas, most is exported, the Burmese are very superstitious, in homes using statues of bronze or wood, as it believed that statues of marble in the house will bring bad luck.
Leave Mandalay along the way central to our arrival that were flooded in the city center buildings are modern, but as we approach the periphery of the houses I see bamboo, alternate colonial buildings to a combination that has its own particular charm.
Walk down a road surrounded by huts and rice fields, and after a few km we arrive at Amarapura (L262 - M146), where we head to the Maha Ganayon Kyang (L263 - M148), an important monastery where they reside thousands of monks, have just spent the 10 and can turn to the monastery to discover the inner life, we see many buildings, some designed to rooms where the monks sleep in the community, and only teachers are allowed to sleep alone. Other buildings are places of study, are other schools of all levels. Places between buildings walls conceal the place where the monks are toiletries kit, wash clothes and using bowls Pour water on him who is always present in several tanks located in the monastery, we are advised that it is forbidden to photograph the religious and washed .
Come running to the kitchen where there are huge cauldron with shrimp, meat, rice, green tea. On the fire are cooking meat, just outside of aluminum pots containing boiled rice that is served for lunch to the monks. Inside the kitchen there is a pantry with bags, dried shrimp, onion bags and wooden boxes containing tomatoes (from Inle Lake). Many foods are the result of tenders, the cooks of the monastery are salaried by a wealthy person in Yangon, which thus makes its offer.
In the nearby dining room can see the seats reserved for the monks and those reserved for donors.
Continuing the tour of the monastery I see some homes with older women: a hospice is included in the monastery, in return the hospitality they receive, these women are dedicated to daily cleaning of the rice for the lunch of the monks.
We have come to the monastery to watch the procession that precedes the meal, the monks, Soso warns us to avoid while photographing the monks have lunch.
We arrive at the main entrance of the refectory, outside there are tables with the offers made by donors today, in addition to meat sight in the kitchen, on the tables there are cakes and fruit.
At 11 a first clear sound of the bell, suddenly a central avenue is populated by monks, each dressed in his brown cloak bearing the black bowl that serves as a plate.

Mandalay - Amarapura - Sagaing - 2nd part

The monks are in two rows and Indian s'avviano slowly toward the dining room, the order in the file is not random, responding to a specific ritual and code that I can not decipher. A second sound of the bell, announced that it is possible to access the dining room, the monks came into the courtyard in front of the dining room, offer their bowl for donations that the fill of rice, take their ration of meat, sweet, the fruit and go sit in the dining room, the table is low and must sit on the floor to eat lunch. Today, the meal is rich and abundant, on days without donations, the monks have lunch with a dish made with rice, dried shrimp, onions and chili, or the ingredients that we have seen accumulated in the pantry. The monks entering the dining room sitting without a specific order, dine in absolute silence, only to the sick monks meal is served in your room. When the lunch will be served to all the monks, what we make will be distributed to the poor.
We leave the monastery of Maha Ganayon Kyang and the coach we head off on the shores of Lake Taungthaman, the car stops and we go to see the U Bein Bridge (L263 - M148), the teak deck in the world's longest; well 1200 meters. The site is strictly tourist, filled with vendors and stalls, with every excuse a continuous and endless cloud of children trying to sell everything. At the bridge of boats to look vaguely Venetian gondolas.
The bridge has a very simple, two rows of wooden posts put in the bottom of the lake at a distance of about 2.5 meters apart, are connected by wooden beams, and on the same axle nailed create walkway on which to walk, it has no side railings, but people walk safely. About every three hundred meters, there is a house of wood that serves as a stopover point for point, a half bridge, where there is a curve, the house has a staircase that descends into the lake, here is a crossroads for boats collecting tourists and carry them to shore, some person in the group decides to return to shore with the boat, but the time to return to the boat is much longer than expected and we have to wait for the laggards.
Kids who sell handicrafts, they are multilingual, have a remarkable ability to learn and assimilate the foreign words very quickly. The stalls are all lecterns wooden carvings, decorations, bags and necklaces made with seeds of watermelon, drawings in black and white watercolors, necklaces and bracelets of various stones, hats fan (from the bamboo and colored ), straw hats in a wide strata typical of Asia.
Let the bridge of teak and the way to the restaurant we stop at a workshop where they work the silver. Lets look at the different stages of metal processing, casting, the chasing, polishing that is performed using fruits and a local stone called untranslatable. The silver is melted in a crucible hammer powered by a hand-cast slabs of thick end and then chiseled. This produces artisan bracelets, earrings, necklaces, vases, boxes, furniture of every shape, taste and price, the store has also necklaces, earrings and rings with precious stones.
Let the craftsman and we continue our way along a river, at one point a bridge crosses the iron, the structure of the bridge at the center sees a home and to train both sides of the roads on which motorized transportation transit, cyclists, pedestrians and carts. The bridge built by the British, was destroyed by the Japanese in World War II, rebuilt in 1952, is currently considered an unstable and so the Burmese government is building a bridge adjacent to the old one.
Continue the transfer and we stop for lunch at a Chinese restaurant, in the bathroom of rolls of toilet paper towels replace, but at least are disposable. Lunch with clouds of dragon soup, chicken, shrimp, pork, rice and fruit.
Left the restaurant, go up on vans and begin the climb towards the hills of Sagaing (L268 - M152), during the climb we stop at the temple of humic Thounzeh (L268 - M153), the temple of the thirty caves, the temple made a mezzaluna containing 45 statues of Buddha, made in honor of 45 years in which the Buddha was preaching shot. The property is fully tiled with ceramic tiles, the floor of the terrace adjacent to the temple is the white ceramic.
On the terrace Soso says that Buddhist monks are two meals a day, when you first wake up, usually at dawn, and the second, after asking the questua, always before 12, and until the next day do not take more food. This custom was introduced over time, as the monks were walking meditation: the long fasting should also serve to help in meditation. While I take notes on my block, the monks curious, come to see and smile as I write.
At the temple, next to stalls of artisans are manufacturing, using the seeds of watermelon, necklaces, handbags and door keys and a cloud of children follows us: they want to sell items produced by craftsmen.
Return the trucks and continue to the top of the hill where we find inside a temple with a statue of Buddha that is the construction of the city on the hill is also a monastery and a cemetery, clearly not Buddhist. Turn to the hill and we can observe the beautiful golden stupa that is entirely out of the sky nell'azzurro. Walk down a corridor full tiled colonnade and protected by a canopy where the sides are rectangular drawings depicting the 15 had nightmares from the king and the related interventions of Buddha, the Enlightened One in which it explains the meaning and predicts what will happen in the future.
Nearby, a temple containing a stone, is the "stone of the court" that is used by students to determine if an examination should be good or evil, for the first time raise the stone, make a bid and then raises the stone, if the Stone seems to lower weight means that the examination will be exceeded, if the stone seems most important, the examination will be difficult to overcome.
Let the Sagaing Hill and always on board buses, we descend to the plains along a path different from that used for the ascent.
Start to return to Mandalay and on the road we stop to visit a factory of tapestry. Tapestries are distinguished according to the design and finish, and if the tapestry contains little machined surface is considered to be precious little, however if he has a very Embroided be considered valuable. Within the factory, seats at each table, four girls working on the piece to the production of tapestries, age is indefinite, some may be genuinely young.
We continue the tour and shortly after we stop in a laboratory where the leaves carry the gold to be made on the statues of Buddha and the holy places. 26 grams of gold out well 4000 gold leaves, each a few cm of the surface. The craftsmen at work in bare feet, as deemed sacred and blessed. For thin gold using an instrument made of bamboo sheets of paper, about 15 wide 15 cm, held by two pieces of wood to the sides, cross-linked with deer skin.

Mandalay - Amarapura - Sagaing - 3rd part

Gold placed between the sheets of bamboo, and bequests held by the skin of deer, is beaten with a sledgehammer, so doing the gold layer is thin. Subsequently, the sheets of bamboo are opened and the gold leaf is divided into two parts, the leaves are closed and continue the beating. This process is repeated for five passages, in the end obtain a thin leaf of gold packed in bags that are sold out of the pagodas and temples.
The sheets of bamboo used for this work, are made to mature in two years, while the skin of deer that keeps together the sticks of wood and sheets of bamboo, is the only skin resistant to blows inflicted by the bat craftsmen.
The leaves made up, are finished by the women who draw in the square and inserters. The packages of 10 sachets have a value, store in 1500 khát, or € 1.5. Adjacent to the laboratory is a shop where there are several items of gold than to those of religious beauty.
Returning to the hotel near the moat of the walls of the Royal Palace, we stop to take photos.
Return to hotel, shower and then I put in place the notes taken during the day. Dinner to consume in a Burmese restaurant, soup of lentils and onions, fish, chicken, beef, vegetables, rice and sweet fried bananas. The restaurant is "enjoy" the full temperature hot and muggy, finished dinner, we returned to the hotel, I go to bed with her eyes lit on the pagoda, placed on top of the hill.

Monywa - 1st part

Alarms and arrangement of the bags, breakfast and loaded the luggage on the bus, leaving for Monywa. Leaving the city, is known as overrun by bicycles and mopeds, being morning people from the countryside went into town to work, everyone brings his "Gavetta" with the lunch of the day.
Mandalay leaving, go over to Sagaing, riattraversiamo the bridge of iron and this time, we continue right on the hill without stopping. We follow the asphalt road surrounded by the huts of families flooded, we stop to photograph the Kaunghwmudaw Paya (L269 - M153), a pagoda built in 1636 by the white dome, the legend has it that it is the perfect breast of a queen of Burma. The height of the dome is 46 meters. Taking pictures and checking on the bus go up but ... have changed the driver? No, that's me walking without looking, I have the wrong bus and boarded the French tourists, come down immediately and go up on the bus parked right behind that of France.
Taking advantage of the trip, says Soso curiosities, customs and traditions of Burma, the superstition is very strong and involves the whole of life completely, and if the houses were the entrance to the south or east, the house was searched and takes a good economic value and if the entry is to the west or north, the economic value drops significantly. Shops and stalls, traders are convinced that the first customer who enters the store or stop at the stand, if acquired, the day is good, if not buy, your day will have a negative aspect to the business, so dealers the first customer is willing to apply very heavy discounts to sell though and have a good day as well.
In Burma the license of the motor can be achieved in 18 years, after six months, one can achieve one of the car, after two years as coach after five years and that of trucks.
Mobile phones have a very particular history, turning to the capital, I noticed the advertisement of mobile generation, but the cards function only locally. The cost of the equipment is equivalent to the Italian one, instead of activating the card costs $ 5000 (all government taxes). There is a lottery where the winner gets a prize consisting of a telephone card activation for "only" $ 1500 and, given the economic situation of the Burmese, many times the prize was sold in exchange for money. Also in terms of telecommunications also has fixed costs of significant activation, the line costs $ 1500.
Along the way we stop for a "water stop" at a restaurant located on the road, although morning on the table there are some ready meals, such as sparrows and fried cheese, take the trip and continues Soso pictured the life of his country .
The houses are made of a main hall, where in many cases there is an altar dedicated to Buddha, we enter in the home barefoot always, the rooms, as well as those of parents, are divided between males and females, while the children are married, when they to find their parents, sleep in separate rooms.
Each of Burma to be a proper person should respect five duties, the teaching of Buddha, respect for parents, for children, for teachers and students.
Along the path passing through an agricultural area cultivated with cotton, arrived here the flood and there are huts of luck along the way.
The road connecting the cities in Burma have the characteristics of previous traveled, a ribbon of asphalt about 4 meters wide, flanked by two dirt tracks where passing tractors and farm wagons, pedestrians and people traveling in motion the rules were not specified, but tend to travel sull'asfalto. In the event of an intersection of coaches and trucks, vehicles with the wheels go on the dirt outside, so the speed varies depending on the traffic that is.
Approach the town of Monywa, Soso we noted adjacent buildings with large well-kept lawns, are the universities, the government built around the city. Being decentralized locations, students are guaranteed a regular public transport.
I continue to listen to other features of life in Burma today, where social services are absent, the board does not exist, older people have hope in helping their children, otherwise they must go in hospices. Salaries are exempt from taxes for workers, civil servants and military, only the unloading of the port and tourist guides have to pay 10% tax.
While travel is broken air conditioning the buses, it is a torment in this tour, we continue with the windows open. During the journey we find a level crossing closed, an employee of the railroad with a green flag announces the closure of Manual el'arrivo bars of the train, the railway is still the one built by the British, the passenger train has a diesel locomotive and is formed by four coaches.
The train passed, we continue the journey along cultivated fields and along the way we see stalls with watermelons.
Continues the description of life in Burma: the distribution of petrol is regulated by the state, the citizen shall enjoy 4 gallons a week, the remaining requirements is purchased on the black market at a cost three times higher, about 4,500 kyat per gallon (€ 3).
The Burmese use chewing leaves of the mix between betala and lime, this intriguing chewing gum and have the language corroded by rubbing lime. The lime is prepared by placing it in a pot with water and cooking is done, then the water is discarded and remains only the bottom, the procedure is repeated five or six times. Thus prepared lime leaves wrapped by the, is chewed, cut off the hunger and sleep. The saliva becomes red, the Burmese who chew the leaves and spit constantly walking on the streets is possible to see many red spots, the result of spitting made. The use of chewing the leaves is of Indian origin.
The women, from an early age like to put on the face of the "Tanaka", a product that serves to protect and beautify the skin. The bark of the wood Tanaka is finely grated and ground, then is applied on the face. Finished bark, pieces of wood are ground and used to make creams for the treatment of hands.
We arrive at Thanhoddhay Paya (L274 - M155), a temple of the pastel colors, with 600,000 statues of Buddha, of every size. Descend from the coach and before entering the temple, which is clearly strictly barefoot, we see the squirrels running on the ground and a tree. The temple built by a monaco named Leonardo is really unusual, the color of pastel pink, blue, green, white and yellow, are lost, it is continually mixed with the white statues of Buddha placed outside the temple on the pinnacles, the stems as decoration. Near the temple, a tank containing the fish is surrounded by a frame decorated with panels describing the life of Buddha. Buddhists buy fish and birds (among other things seen in the sale of teak on the bridge the day before) and then free them. Adjacent to the pool two women selling food for fish, the food purchased by pilgrims and tourists are given directly to the fish that are in the tub.
Let the tank and enter the temple is full of gladioli, the flowers of faith, the bouquet spreads and blended all'incenso burning on the altar, makes the air really good.

Monywa - 2nd part

Inside the temple there are statues of Buddha in various positions of the fingers of the hand as a sign of education. Shot some photos of this particular color and the temple and then we head between fields at another sacred area, in the hills of Po Khaung (L274 - M154) where there is a massive statue of Buddha lying down, the length of the statue is 90 mt.; access in this area through an area where there are 10,000 plants of Ficus Religiosa, climb a tower that is the best observation point to the pagoda and the statue of Buddha lying down. Behind this huge statue scaffolding to glimpse another statue of Buddha standing under construction, the height is impressive, with work completed statue will be 167 meters high.
We leave the area and we head towards the city of Monywa, where we come for lunch, we stop at a tollbooth to pay the toll that allows access to the city. Soso says that for the road construction people "voluntarily" upon state taxation, working one day a week. The reward was for this contribution, divide in half the collection of tolls, 50% goes to the State and 50% remains in the city and is used for maintenance of roads and other public works.
We arrive at the restaurant, french fries (always appreciated by the Italians), chick pea soup, beef, pork (high cooking), vegetables, pineapple. The hotel is nice, the rooms are piles of wood, very clean and pleasing.
After lunch we go by coach to the port city, where we take the ferry boat on the other side of the river where, next to a chaotic market, we expect that the jeep will take us to visit the HPO Win Daug Caves (L275 - M155) the caves of shamans. Go up on the means and depart towards the caves along the campaign characterized by flat, shortly after passing close to extensive areas of mountains and surrounded by gravel indicate that we are in the mining area of state-owned copper mine where. The guide says that at night, the people of the village, it takes the earth to extract the valuable mineral and can sell.
We leave the plains and begin to climb the hills, the road is unpaved and bridges are made of wood, the driver proceeds to speed fairly supported by continuing to play the horn every time he meets someone.
After about 45 minutes we stop for a trip on a small yard, we came to the Caves of shamans. The first nell'arenaria caves were dug in 900, in 1400 and were painted the frescoes, though partially ruined, are still visible today, in 1780 are affixed to the first statues of Buddha in bronze, in 1900 began the restoration and attached many statues are still visible.
The origin of the name of the caves has been lost in time, it appeared that stems from the fact that the place was frequented by shamans who gathered for the preparation of various potions.
Access to the first cave, is preceded by a wall of the temple, the temple was originally made of wood, today there remain only the doors of teak wood inlaid visible on the sides. The cave was dug nell'arenaria inside a statue of Buddha and frescoes depicting his life. We continue along the slopes of the hill, is a series of caves, some visible, others hidden by tropical forest, the monkeys appear that, even at close to us and ask for food, putacaso of kids selling bags of peanuts to be given to the monkeys . Continuing the tour on the hills, looking at the caves of every shape and size, some are fairly well maintained, others show signs of time and humidity. We can see in some of the frescoes depicting the foot print of Buddha and lotus flower, a local belief has it that these frescoes in transit, ports, fortunately, since they are then why not take advantage of them?
At the top of a hill, a cave contains a statue of Buddha dying, are the characteristic legs fully stretched and not flexed, as previously seen in statues, this cave was first excavated between those present.
Descend from the hill a little and find a yard surrounded by temples, the square gathered the villagers and have appeared dozens of screaming monkeys. We visit a cave containing four large statues of Buddha and a smaller one, this cave was restored in 1901. Despite the restoration of the site, begun in the early 1900s, only recently have been made of the conservation and if not pursued quickly, I can say that I have visited the cave a few decades prior to their destruction as a result of moisture, infiltration d ' water and the forest that surrounds it.
On the front of the mountain, we see a cave with a representation of Mount Meru, near the entrance a pyramid carved in the rock represents the seven mountains and seven seas to be overcome to reach the mountain sacred to Buddhists. In sculpture the representative is in the high mountains, while the sea is represented in bas-relief, in which they are carved fish. Above the pyramid, representing the 26 floors of Paradise.
Nearby, a cave contains the largest statue of all, the Buddha is lying down and is 27 meters long.
Following a path to the limits of the forest, descend the hill and got his jeep, retracing the path followed in going back to the River. In the travel pass near fenced land, where sheep farming is widespread, instead of the classic pile-known houses, it means that here the rainfall is less than in other parts of the country.
We reach the river to be covered em'accorgo earth raised by jeep that preceded us, I just covered his face and this is well known, when I hide the sunglasses, it is fortunate that the hotel we expected a nice shower.
Take the boat to cross the river, while the sun gives way to ominous clouds away, on the river you see the lightning. Return to the hotel that darkness has already fallen on the city, a shower and then, as the internet point is available, the internet works and the costs are acceptable, I take this opportunity to send my information through the usual chain of friends.
Eat dinner in the hotel, fried vegetables (a dish called tampura, made with rice flour and vegetables), soup with quail eggs, wheat noodles, rice jumped, lamb, fish, cauliflower. Need a cake made with rice dough stuffed with coconut, then bananas.
During the dinner starts to rain copiously, expect the storm diminished in intensity and we go to the lobby to play cards and chat a little. Then I retreat to the room layout of the diary em'addormento with the vision in the eye of the caves dug nell'arenaria seen in the afternoon.

Pakkoku - Bagan - 1st part

In the morning, the bus the day before the air conditioning had broken was replaced with another having to do because we should have a long way to travel with the windows open. Indeed we find another coach, but ........ is that we have changed two days earlier and also had the air conditioning not working! Let's say a "return to the past."
Breakfast and leave for Pakkoku, exiting from the city of Monywa known piles of bamboo and teak others along the way there are sawmills, where, on a government grant, the work of teak wood. The road is surrounded by acacia plants with red flowers and yellow: the combination is very pleasing.
The road connecting the two cities was built in 1992, has many holes and no apparent long asphalt. For maintaining the road is divided into sections and enforcement work is contracted out to the family groups. In this activity the whole family working, the men take the stones from the quarries and hand them up to break reduced small grains that are placed in holes. Women, children and sometimes even see the children are active part of the work; carrying stones from the quarries to the road, or deposited the stones in the hole and then covered with asphalt is wrought with weights. The work is not done to "art" so that maintenance is ongoing and thus the labor contract is "guaranteed" in time.
After two hours of travel, we stop in the village of Mau, built entirely with bamboo and palm trees in 1997, after a fire had completely destroyed. Just gotten off the bus, we see women engaged in the manufacture of craft for the incense sticks that make using a kneading machine, put a stick of bamboo and closing the machine, allowing the slats to move into a dough that gray wraps. The processing is done separately for each cue and the same, then, are laid on the ground supported by a wood for drying of the dough. The incense sticks have a second coating that is made elsewhere, various essences give the desired scent from the burning of the wand. While women are trying in the working of the incense sticks, craftsmen working the leaves of palm, creating furniture and objects for the home.
Near the village we see the pagodas of the twelfth century. and scattered in the forest, the remains of other pagodas, the guide "invites us" not to go this high grass to avoid the encounter, just nice, with some creeping reptile. Turning into the pagodas, and some is white, someone is in a state of neglect, after a short journey we arrived in a clearing where there are schools. Soso offers children of primary school exercise books and pencils, children, overjoyed, thanks for the donation.
Not far away in another school I see kids / and committed at the hour of physical education, physical exercises seem like a gymnastics "regime" and remember the old movies of the Light, the period before the Second World War.
Returning to the bus, while passing through the village before we see a sesame cultivated fields, with plants from the yellow flowers, then a group of women visiting the temple, is the seventh day after the full moon and the Buddhist calendar is a day sacred.
While taking up the partially paved road heading towards Pakkoku, Soso read the description of the Burmese tradition, the gifts offered by foreign kids are kept as souvenirs. Even the pens and stationery ranges, it is not used. In Burma, pens and stationery, available at low price comes from nearby China, but the quality is not high.
Passing near palm plantations, it describes the use of its parts. Palm used to 15 years to produce coconuts, the plants are males and females, the females produce coconuts and the males produce pods, farmers using ladders made of bamboo tied to the trunk, climb to the top of the plant and cutting the pods, affix the containers for the collection of the liquid contained in them. This liquid is fermented and produces a beverage called Toddy (L72), similar to a light beer.
Palm will use all the leaves are used for construction of the roofs of houses, side walls and mats and the trunk is used to make the poles where the dwellings built; roots, collected, and are cleaned once boiled are edible .
Soso says that tradition identifies the existence of five enemies of the people: the flood, fire, the refusal of a person who does not want me, the governor or the king, and finally the thief.
We arrive at Pakkoku (L298 - M134), compared to the original program jump visiting the ruins of the Monastery of Pakhangyi, and we stop at the town market, which is partially closed because today is a day of celebration for Buddhists. Since there are stalls and shops open, do a tour in search tissue characteristic of the place because this is the area of fabric production in Burma.
Turning to the market we find a great fabric store and enter to see what's inside of the bowls I also see black, are those that use the monks to ask for alms. M'informo and I understand that the bowls can be implemented with three different materials, the traditional glazed earthenware or lacquered bamboo, the more modern and less beautiful are made of enameled iron.
Pakkoku is a city famous for its plantations of tobacco and its processing, the state-owned factories are in cigarettes, and cigars are produced by local artisans. Even the texture of cotton are well known and widely used in town, here are factories of clothes for all the various ministries of Burma, each with its own style.
We stop in town for the break for lunch, fried shrimp, soup of vegetables and fish, chicken, fries (abundant on clear indications of Soso noted that as in the days before we ate for taste), bananas.
Start with the coaches and we head to a village of huts which stands on the banks of the river, we are surrounded by children and sellers of fabrics; transhipped our luggage on a boat, go up and we start to Bagan.
While browsing on the calm waters of the Ayeyarwady River, I see the barges and boats laden with merchandise, someone charged with bags of rice and some post of metal drums votes (which I understand are empty because the waterline of the boat is high). This river has the characteristic of not having the current twice a day, and in fact still sail on the waters of a river is very unusual. Navigation proceeds calmly, only the noise of the diesel engine breaks the silence of the river at a certain point, suddenly appear in waves, the current has taken to move the subject waters. Along the sandy river banks are very high, a sign of erosion produced by the river, just next to tributaries, the high banks degrade before recovering. Above the banks, as well all'erba that overlooks the river, huts scattered indicate that there are areas under cultivation. At some point it will begin the forest, we proceed along, when all of a sudden the green plants suddenly sprout of pagodas and a brown, very impressive, gilded.

Pakkoku - Bagan - 2nd part

The navigation continues in a series of pinnacles that stand out to heaven, you lose sight of eye. The view sweeps from the brown river, and lost nell'azzurro sky lit by a hot sun on the green side of the forest is fragmented by the colors and shapes of hundreds of pagodas, a vision that leaves amazed by such beauty.
Moored in Bagan (L282 - M125) after having sailed for several km on the river, around us there are cruise boats, the green of the forest and pagodas. Since the composition of sandy soil has never permitted to grow rice, and historically this has been dedicated to building pagodas. Today, around the archaeological site of 42 square km, extending to peanut fields, corn and beans.
In Bagan, there were originally 4400 pagodas, then with the abandonment, earthquake and through time many have collapsed. Currently there are 2230 pagodas between original and restored. In 1975 an earthquake caused the summit pinnacles of all pagodas in place, and began a massive restoration work financed by UNESCO, a work that is currently suspended for some tension between the international organization and the Burmese government. In there are three types of pagodas, the original, the restored and rebuilt ones. Along the road to the city of Bagan know the construction of a pagoda.
The sun is setting and the show is unique, from the forest there are dozens of pagodas, the sun illuminates their tips brown, white or gold that stood out toward the blue sky is a beautiful prelude to the day tomorrow.
We arrive at the hotel, we enter the hall and remain enchanted, it's all covered with lacquer, columns, walls, ceiling, all covered with finely decorated lacquer. It seems to be saying "welcome to the realm of working with lacquer.
In his free time before dinner, a member of the group from leaving for a trip with those rides, those who walk. I was positioned near the pool and I dedicate it to read the history of the place and the sites you visit tomorrow, but right in the heart of the kingdom of pagodas, the air you breathe is magical.
Dinner is a real surprise, is all'occidentale, fresh salad, potato soup, grilled chicken with vegetables and potatoes for a delicious sweet creme caramel, all served on plates and holsters. After so many Burmese and Chinese meals, a dinner with our tastes. Finished dinner suddenly the lights go out, what happens? ...... appears a cake lit by candles, is the birthday of Mariarosa! Soso, sei un grande! He made a surprise at all prepared independently of the birthday celebration, but on this occasion was truly a wonderful and attentive person.
Spends the evening sitting by the pool chatting with members of the group.

Bagan - 1st part

Alarms and when we leave the room cooled, the day is hot and muggy, breakfast and then leave for the visit of the pagoda.
We follow the plain of Bagan and arrive at Paya Shwezigon (L331 - M131), adjacent to the golden stupa, the prototype of the stupa throughout Burma, is of timber construction of the seventeenth century. The pagoda dates back to 1058, on the inner walls, are the panels with the story of the life of Buddha. The coating of the original pagoda was pozzolana, is now disrupted by making visible the bricks of the structure. In front of the pagoda are the white serving bowls for the collection of bids, this is the second most important temple in Burma. Near the stupa a rectangular building, is the temple of the transition period to period Buddhist animist; within the building are the 37 statues related to animist tradition, as already seen in the Pagoda Hintha Gon Paya at Bago. The wooden statues were decorated function to achieve their wishes. Adjacent to the temple there is an inlaid wooden pavilion, which dates back to 1880 contains 10 tables that describe the stories of Buddha, the columns are decorated with colored glass. Not far away a building contains animist statues and stone to be raised to fulfill the desires, similar to one seen in Mandalay, two statues representing the transition period of religions, the father is animist, Buddhist son. Going round the pagoda we see a wooden pavilion containing a statue of Buddha standing with a flower of sycamore, mounted on the pavilion is carved and decorated.
Not far from the land surface in a sand table where there is engraved the history of the pagoda, it was tradition that the pagodas had similar tables, but in many cases have been plundered or broken. We see a well placed on the ground the diameter of about 10 cm. Containing water that creates a reflection on which you can see the tip of the pagoda, the tradition says that the king could not raise his head to see the tip of the pagoda, otherwise the the crown would fall and this would bring bad luck and misfortune, including the fall of the kingdom. But the king using this well could see the top of the stupa, while keeping firmly in mind the crown.
Let the Shwezigon Paya quickly and we head towards Kyan Si Tha humic (L332), a temple with frescoes inside which originally was a center of meditation. The structure presents a series of corridors with vaulted ceilings and rooms inside are inlaid wooden doors, the corridors are painted with the stories of Buddha, the rooms have vaulted ceilings cross. See frescoes on the walls and dancers depicting Mongolians (invaders of the thirteenth century.), The structure is of the eleventh century. The frescoes are of the thirteenth century.
We cross the street and see another temple, the Wet Kyi Inn, climb on a scale and access to the temple with frescoes depicting the stories of Buddha, but because of the earthquakes and the infiltration of water, the frescoes are partly irreparably damaged; the door was painted entirely covered with lime.
Continuing the tour of the temples and we stop to see the temple of Wet Kyi In Gubyaukggyi (L323 - M133), made in Indian style, with arched ceilings acute. The walls are divided into three bands of decoration, in the lower part there are panels with geometric designs of Buddha located inside and outside of the individual tiles in order to give continuity. The central band consists of a Greek picture shaped drop upside down, the band toward the ceiling has a fresco depicting geometric shapes the life of Buddha. These panels have been partially removed by a Committee and be seen in a museum of the old continent. The rear of the temple is made in the shape of a cross, the temple is completely frescoed, and the artists were using up to six layers of lime in order to completely smooth the surface and can be decorated.
We leave the temple of Wet Kyi In Gubyaukggyi and we go to visit the temple of A Loto Pye, is a temple of the first period.
But that means the first period? The temples of Bagan in the area were built in three very specific historical periods: the first period lasts from 849 to 1113, the second period from 1114 to 1174 and finally the third period from 1175 to 1287. Every period has its own architectural features and buildings of the first period with windows pierced where little light penetrates, the bricks used for construction of these temples are of great size, and the temples of the second period are higher, have large windows and are embellished with designs of flowers, the third period is characterized by the construction of great temples built in modern style, much of the previous lights outside and decorated with pozzolana. This period saw the flowering of temples built by the queens and ministers.
Let us return to the description of the temple of A Loto Pye, called "Realizing the desires", built in 1090, according to Burmese tradition, this is the first to visit the temple, a temple is often neglected by tourists and visited mainly by Burmese. At the entrance is a wooden building, inside there are four statues of Buddha, kept in niches, polychrome frescoes on the walls, the time is sometimes crossed. The Buddha statues are covered with precious stones, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds and pearls.
Adjacent to the temple, a stupa called "green pagoda", is the only pagoda in Burma to be covered with glass tiles of green enamel. Being a stupa, the climb to the terrace is granted only to men, and go up from the terrace overlooking the plain which, although covered by tropical forest, it is studded with pagodas of different shapes, sizes and colors, a unique spectacle, snap a few photos before returning. Reach the group that is rising nearby on the terrace of a temple, where the access is allowed even to women, the group spellbound by such beauty will stop to admire and photograph. Descend from the terrace of the temple, leave the enclosure of pagodas and we head coach at the temple of Htilommlo Phat (L322), the "temple of the king and dell'Ombrello". The name derives from a legend related to the king who ordered the erection of the temple, with four boys and wanted to build a temple for the child, his beloved, decided that the temple was dedicated to those who were drawn from an umbrella that fell, led the children on the site, the umbrella in his hand "miraculously fell on the youngest son, then built the temple with the name of his son, who later also became king.
Even this temple was covered with pozzolana decorated the facade of the temple, in which the pozzolana is falling, it is possible to observe the positioning of the bricks that make up the structure. Placed on horizontal layers, are interspersed with a layer vertical, in addition to creating a decoration of the facade, significantly strengthens the structure, in fact, this provision has allowed the building to resist earthquakes over several centuries. On the walls are visible pieces of the original coating of pozzolana with Greek motifs, a flower, all finely wrought alternate covering the wall, making a vague idea of what had been the original beauty.

Bagan - 2nd part

The building is constructed on two floors, the arched windows acute allow the passage of much light. Inside there are frescoes, whose designs were made with tempera on sand. On the right wall, just entered is a fresco representing a horoscope, the temple built in 1218 retaining the original statue of Buddha in gilded bronze. The ceiling is entirely covered with frescoes of floral designs, doors and ceilings are arched and show a sharp bell'armonia. In the structure of the temple has four entrances all with the ceiling decorated with flowers.
We continue and arrive in about the seventh building in the morning, is the temple of Min Ke Ga, a construction of the XII century.; Within the ceiling is arched acute cross-walls are fully painted, this is a statue of Buddha in sandstone, the upper deck to support the structure there are two sandstone lintel cross the edges of the same side were built statues of Buddha, where the head rests on the beams and, in the space between the beam and the floor was made the body of the statue. Going on the terrace to see the statues, I can enjoy a panorama as the eye can see the pagodas.
Near the temple of Min Ke Ga, a smaller temple contains frescoes single green color derived from the leaves.
Climb on the bus and we head to the restaurant for lunch, during the transit route near a wall, the wall of the royal palace, which look impressive moat and an area where archaeologists have calculated stood the royal palace , having been built in wood, no trace remains. On the opposite side of the road, the Burmese army has been rebuilt in a scale model of the real royal palace using red brick, the roof sheet is green with golden decorations of iron, the structure, although impressive, very vaguely reflects the beauty of ' original building.
Break in a restaurant along the river, have lunch outdoors by a huge canopy cover, below us the river flowing placidly Ayeyarwady. Fried vegetables, vegetable soup, pork, beef, grilled prawns, vegetables, papaya and pomegranate; finished lunch we return to the hotel to avoid the heat of the first afternoon of this hot and muggy day.
In mid-afternoon take the bus and continue the tour of the temples. Let us stop to visit the Builthy Siem Nyet, built in the twelfth century., The complex built in honor of two sisters, is composed of the temple and stupas, the two buildings, although completely different from each other, were built with the same number of bricks even here the exterior was decorated with pozzolana.
Leave the complex and continue to Manuha Paya (L326 - M133), the square of the pagoda is a huge bowl in golden sandstone, once a year, the bowl is filled with rice, which is then distributed to the poor: l ' supply serves as a reminder that death is always sudden, coming.
The complex contains a building, where there are two statues, which resemble a king and his wife captured during a war, not deliberately killed, taken prisoner and were segregated in this place. The King to express the suffering that was trying to be a prisoner, even if it was in a golden prison, but still in prison it was decided to build a temple containing large statues of Buddha, just to express the suffering he experienced during imprisonment. The temple inside the height maximum of no more than 25 meters, contains statues, the greater is 16 meters high, on either side two other statues are 11 meters.: Opposite the entrance, a statue of Buddha lying down, 27 long mt.
A short distance away visit the Man Paya (L327), a construction made entirely of sandstone, it is said that this had been the prison of the king above. The building is one of the four basic Bagan temples; dall'etnia Mon achieved in the first period when Hinduism was still very present. The temple has pierced the windows that allow the passage of air and little light inside the walls are carved in sandstone, the walls are niches and hooks that served as support for lighting lamps.
We leave this complex and we head towards Gugyi Shwe (L 319), is a temple with a particular position, from every window of the building, you see a pagoda, it is unique. Inside has vaulted ceiling, the altar is a golden statue of Buddha, the arched windows are acute.
Shortly after we visit the temple of Dan Than Gya, "yawn of the king", built in 1284, to see a statue of Buddha made of lava brick home, the statue is unfinished. Here, too, the finish was decorated pozzolana. Leave the temple and meet a serpentello green, clear away, leaving us the reptile to rest.
We continue the tour and come to Lokahteik, a temple of the twelfth century. the interior is completely painted, the ceiling is sometimes cross, is present above an altar with a gilded statue of Buddha.
We leave it is afternoon, we reach the 14th and final temple of the day, fatigue is beginning to be felt, arrived at the Paya Shwesandaw (L324 - M131), when the sun is about to begin, go up the steep steps that lead the terraces, and while we go up the landscape. Someone in the group stops, I continue and go up all five terraces, turning on the highest terrace, watch the hundreds of pagodas which are seen everywhere as the eye can see. The sun is setting behind the clouds, the pagodas are lost among the palm trees, white, gold, brown of pagodas slowly fade, leaving room for the night is falling. Descend from the terraces of the temple, climb on the bus and return to the hotel, the system notes taken during the day, the references to be searched are numerous, shower and then again for dinner with show of puppets in a Burmese restaurant.
Along the way to the restaurant across the plain with the temples that we saw in the day, a few golden stupa is illuminated and time glitters in the dark of night, the show is really fascinating and sublime.
We arrive at the restaurant, dinner in an outdoor courtyard on one side of that there is a dedicated space and over to the stage for the play of puppets. Start the show, in several scenes monographs, telling different stories, slide 28 players, more than a jester. The entire show is accompanied by music and songs. The pleasing performance lasts almost the whole dinner. It 'a show done more for tourists than for Burmese who "ignore" any form of traditional entertainment. During dinner we need sheets of fried rice, lentil soup, cabbage with lemon juice, dried shrimp seasoned with chili pepper (a traditional Burmese dish, very spicy), cooked vegetables, fish, pork, and the cuisine is really tasty. Towards the end of a dinner plate comes ... Grana Padano! Mariella, took him from Italy, shares it with everyone, is a surprise for the whole group. To end the dinner came the banana flambé and a good coffee. The whole dinner is accompanied by white rice seasoned with coconut juice, is a good match for all dishes.
At the end of dinner we return to the hotel, the sky appears clear and starry, but in the distance you can see flashes of the night that can, who knows how it will be the day tomorrow?

Bagan - 1st part

It 'Sunday, the holy holiday, breakfast and then leave for the plain of Bagan, the first stage of the day is the local market in the district of Gnaö, the happiness of women is irrepressible, after the previous day dedicated to visiting the temples, a bit of shopping we wanted to own. On the way to the market in the transit area of the temples, even though they are on the bus in motion, in some temples through the windows one can see the statues of Buddha. We reach the town market, where, turning it, is all fabric, lacquer objects, handicrafts, statues, jewelry, rice, fish, meat and ... the possibility of buying cooked meat to grill, a local specialty: rodents from the campaign. Exactly! Grilled mice; country go, which are custom!
Let the market and take the tour of the temples, we arrived in the area of the monks, we see some square buildings and downs, were the dwellings of the monks, now abandoned because the area has become purely archaeological.
The first temple we visit is the Payathonzu (L330), "the three temples, the building appears to the outside of rectangular shape and as the term encompasses three separate temples with independent entrances, but connected by a passageway . The temple built in the thirteenth century. was not completed for the invasion of Mongols. The original frescoes are present, the three statues of Buddha present, one is original. The three temples are cross-vaulted ceiling, doors and windows are arched acute. Since the left temple of the walls completely covered with polychrome frescoes, the temple has the central frescoes almost completed, and the temple on the right is entirely frescoed and retain the original statue. The statues were placed only when the frescoes were completely finished, the incompleteness due Mongolian invasion lets us see the various stages of processing.
We continue looking at the visit Tham Bula Paya (L330), the temple takes its name from the queen that he built, the plaster exterior is decorated in pozzolana, the interior is painted in pozzolana with episodes from the life of Buddha and the monks.
The third temple we visit is Tayoke Pye Paya (L330), built in 1287, is a spectacular building to present the many peaks that create a harmonious compound. Be a curious example, finished the construction of the temple, the dome collapsed.
During the transfer to the next temple, we stop to visit the village of A Nout PWA Saw. Descend from the coach and do a tour in this village inhabited dall'etnia Mon, dedicated to pastoralism and agriculture, in the village of huts made of bamboo all fenced, we see a mill that moved from cows turning circle in driving the mills for the production sesame oil. Later in a hut, you can see the craftsmanship of bamboo to produce items of lacquer. The bamboo is split into thin strips which are used to shape objects. Bamboo is used the central part of the stem, is discarded and the outside is used only the soul. These artisans produce objects made of four layers of lacquer.
We resume our journey to the temples and visit the Gubyaukgyi Myin Ka Bar (L326), the temple has a square pierced windows, and even in this case, the air circulating and the light that enters is limited. At the center of the temple a chapel, also square houses a statue of Buddha in colored sandstone, and the corridor between the outer perimeter structure and the chapel interior has completely frescoed walls. They are the most beautiful frescoes of the whole plain of Bagan, built on a layer of pozzolana are polychrome, depicting stories of Buddha. On the walls, in addition to frescoes, are written in an ethnic Mon. The exterior walls of the central chapel, there are niches containing small statues of Buddha.
Leave the temple and just visit a nearby pagoda containing a stele written in four languages, is the first document written in Burmese and dates back to 1113. The first form of writing using characters Burmese square, while the current text uses only characters round.
We continue the tour coming to the temple of the fifth morning was Ananda Pahto (L321 - M129), the temple par excellence, the temple of the 10,000 peaks. Imposing, white, surrounded by a ring which is accessed by four portals that put into colonnades, and the structure of the temple, outside, reveals the story of Buddha in three ways:
• 1447 through glazed tiles laid to the building;
• through the frescoes;
• through the statues.
It 'the only temple of the whole plain of Bagan built in the shape of a Greek cross, the structure is spread over several floors. The church has arched windows, in the light enters and illuminates corridors, is truly a unique style to express the beauty and harmony. To four entries are placed statues of Buddha, two are original and made of one piece of golden teak wood. The statues have a structure whose face seems to change with the prospect, in fact, observing from afar, the statue seems to have a very strict approach, the serious expression turns into a sweet smile. The ports of entry are 10 meters high from the weight of a tonne to door.
Inside the temple has an internal square, surrounded by two corridors that run along the entire perimeter, an outer and the other more internal walls are of the same niches containing statues of Buddha in gilded wood and sandstone.
Ananda Pahto leave and we are preparing to visit the latest temple of the morning and during the trip we stop to photograph a stupa covered entirely in gold, the pagoda of Ra Ma Da Zika, coating el'illuminazione night was ordered and paid for by Prime Minister of Burma. We continue the journey and arrive at the temple of Dhammayangyi (L324 - M131), undertaken by a sovereign who accede to the throne he killed his father and brother to show his repentance had built this temple. The construction of the structure deliberately proceeded slowly this to create a solid and well established structure, resistant to earthquakes over the centuries. Currently, the interior is inhabited by bats and we stop to observe the exterior of the imposing temple, shoot some photos and then start
The morning passed quickly and approaching lunch time, we go to a restaurant located on the banks of the river where we need: fried vegetables, lentil soup, beef, chicken, grilled shrimp, vegetables with garlic, fried bananas, Nescaffe.
At the end of lunch, since it is the last day before leaving for Cambodia, we give a little thought Soso for its availability, professionalism and proven puntigliosità; a little commotion among the growing group.

Bagan - 2nd part

We leave the restaurant and go to visit a workshop to create objects of lacquer, the lacquer is a paint made from latex extracted from the bark of the tree of lacquer (Rhus Vernicifera) and left to dry in special conditions of temperature and humidity. The lacquer comes from the state of Shan. As we have seen in the village of A Nout PWA Saw the morning, the bamboo is cut into thin strips that are used to shape objects, particularly for flexible objects (such as glasses), the strips are woven with horsehair . Once your item has taken the shape, the craftsman applies a first layer of black lacquer, then the object is placed in a cellar for proper drying, the stay lasts a week, so the craftsmen to carry the various layers of lacquer. The items produced here have 12 layers of lacquer, and then serve well only 84 days for proper drying. After the layers of black lacquer are applied layers of color, the colored layer is applied and is secured with a resin of acacia, then is given a different color and also fixed with the resin, so proceed with all the layers of color that the artist chooses to affix.
When this processing, go to decorating, the first phase is done with a pen of iron, which is used for the engravings on the lacquer, and the men work the large figure, women finish the details and particulars. Production is a team effort, where everyone with his wisdom and art, creating the assumption that the product is of high beauty.
Being in the realm of the production of lacquer in Burma, as the best opportunity to not make the purchases?
By the end on the last shopping tour to Bagan, we return to the hotel to check our bags and freshen up quickly before leaving for the airport direct to Yangon. At Bagan c'imbarchiamo on direct flight to the capital, unfortunately, living in Burma is being concluded. During the flight to take them to control the pictures taken and see how many I have available on the card are 470, surely enough to stay in Cambodia.
The feeling that I was going to Burma, is to go to places known, is really a strange perception, I will be a case of reincarnation? If you hope to be in one of the 26 paradises of the Buddhist religion.
I do not know what to expect in Cambodia, but Burma is really beautiful, Soso says that on this tour we saw the most beautiful places in his country. Personally I would have liked to stay a few more days and be able to run freely for the cities and countries looking for better people's lives, to visit other places unless beaten by tourists and frequented by the public.
Arrive in Yangon and we head to the hotel, take the suitcases left a few days ago. During the buffet dinner in the hotel, we find some European flavor, always welcome after a few days of the Burmese and Chinese cuisine. The after dinner is dedicated to preparing the case for departure and the arrangement of notes of travel in Burma.

To Cambodia

Wake up, breakfast and before going out on leave from the few Soso khát rimastimi well as shirts and trousers to be given to lepers; Soso thanks also on behalf of his people. With all our luggage on the bus go up and crossing for the last time we head to Yangon airport. We stop to take the last photos of the city, passing close to the Shwedagon Paya, who was the first pagoda visited, the sun is on the opposite side, as if to hide the beauty of the golden stupa, the sky is azure blue, I interpret this vision as a nice greeting and an invitation to return to this beautiful land dotted with thousands of golden pagodas.
Quickly arrive at the airport and Soso, with his colleague's, are dedicated to go through all the practices for the departure, a really excellent and comprehensive service provided by the Burmese. Picked up the suitcases, Soso and salute the entire group through the check-in, it stops in the waiting room waiting for his flight to Bangkok. Look at the airport which is under construction, are still on the track of the aircraft, it sometimes takes off some military aircraft with various shades of color, green, brown, blue and white. We are in a room of the old structure, you notice that is dated. A plane takes off with the Thai, the service on board is always good, the journey is enhanced by a snack of fish and rice. Backpack filing the leadership of Burma and extract that of Cambodia, to take the flight to read the story and some information on the country where we are going. Switch from one state to another, but close is always a great mental leap, culture, history, different customs, traditions still create some problems in the adaptation. The technique of "zero knowledge" always works, never give anything to know or to ground, but always adapt to the country where you are going.
Landed in Bangkok, I can finally turn on the phone and read text messages that had arrived in the meantime, here is morning and half in Italy is still night, is "a little sensitive" to that call. Sending sms saying where they are and I am well and, during his stay at the airport, a few sms and phone call from arriving "Welcome back to civilization ...." reads an sms, this is true, accustomed to the services offered by technology, not able to communicate freely was a little limiting.
After several hours waiting on a c'imbarchiamo ARTICLE 72 of Bangkok Airways, the aircraft is complete, take off late. During the flight over endless plains under cultivation, the mountains seem to be absent from one sees only a few small hills scattered here and there. Seem to see a huge extensions cultivated rice, famous green spots arranged in the vicinity of villages and along the paths of rivers, plants are palm trees and stretches of forest. For several minutes flying over flooded land, I do not understand that, in the end know that the water touches the runway. Then discover that it is the Tonlé Sap lake, which after the large rainfall of previous days is at its highest level.
Landed at Siem Reap (L114 - M92), a town in northern Cambodia. At the airport customs must submit passports, visas, photos and all the requirements of the Cambodian bureaucracy. To expect is an envoy of the local, which collects all of our documents es'interessa him for our entrance, exit the airport and climb on a bus of 30 seats, while the bags are loaded on vans will be delivered directly at the hotel.
We do know that the guide will accompany us in this short stay, is called Sarath, speaks fluent Italian not, but attention is understandable. Because of air travel we are late, we had to watch the sunset over the lake from a hill, but given the hours we change the program.
By bus, closer to the city we see that many people on board leaves the bike downtown heading towards the campaign. Sarath says that there are construction workers who get up at 5 am, arriving in a city where they work until 17 to get to work even travel 20 km.
Siem Reap is 310 km from the capital of Cambodia, a country that, after the dictatorship of the Khmer Rouge, which ended in 1979, has not yet resumed.
On the way well known that the houses are of bamboo, teak and brick, all in palafitte and the pillars are of teak or cement.
Crossed the city, quickly come to Tonlé Sap (L51 - M91), the lake after the rain has a very high level, c'imbarchiamo on a sailing boat and see a floating village, the houses are made on rafts or boats; while browsing the sun sets behind the mountains creates a striking effect.
We stop at a boat that serves as a shop and bar, adjacent to the boat, a fence post in water contains crocodiles bred for the leather.
Return to the land that is dark, the helmsman is guided by the stars and the reflection of water towards the shore a guy with a flashlight helps to illuminate the lake and avoid overwhelm some pirogue present. The houseboats will see scenes from everyday life, the boats are intended for houses, shops, a bar, even a hospital and a church. The whole village float follows the water of the lake. After the rains the surface of the lake is 10,000 square km, while at the end of the dry season the surface is reduced to 3,000 square km.
Homes, known men and women lying on hammocks, children playing, families for dinner, TV work, then a cross-section of normal daily life of these people. There are many Vietnamese immigrants, whose children, on the mainland, so insistent in asking for charity.
Navigation calm is disturbed by cloud of mosquitoes that are s'abbattono us; berths, abandoning the boat and climbed on the bus, we head to Siem Reap, the traffic is significantly reduced along the road you see the markets.
A particularly attracts my attention, traffic signals are equipped with a timer indicating the time before the missing color changes, stops 30 seconds on the red and 30 seconds on the green.
The impact is to be in a country very different from Burma, the phones work here, many cars run, there are gas stations, hotels and shops are sorted and cleaned, and the features of the people are different from those Burmese.
We arrive at the hotel, is large and luxurious, truly another comfort than Burma. The dinner buffet, with a cuisine of Eastern Europe that tries to approach the Western taste, or perhaps it is only an impression because we changed the nation? At the end of the dinner I try to exit from the hotel, but the humid heat is unbearable, and return with the air conditioning is definitely better.

Angkor Thom - 1st part

Alarm at 7.00, the hotel is full of Japanese seem to breakfast of hungry locusts, devour everything, and as tradition has it, are armed with technology for each product, with cameras to photograph everything, including the hall of 'hotel and the adjacent rooms. We leave for the day excursions aboard the bus, this is the standard of bus travel here, 30 calculated on the size of Asia, we find it hard to remain seated for a long time, our legs were virtually caught between the seats. We start and cross Siem Reap, Sarath trying to speak Italian correctly, explains a few things in Cambodia.
The nation sees a predominantly Buddhist 90%, the illiteracy rate is 25%, 70% are farmers. Currently the nation focuses on tourism as a primary source of hard currency, so many hotels are under construction, in part involving foreign capital. The construction of the buildings I can see along the roads is curious, after finishing the roof, are now made outside the finish and then continuing the work internally, as for wanting to show the beauty of the building. Sarath, sometimes is confused with the Italian words, it must be very careful in listening and taking notes in these conditions is a little complex.
Across the city arrived in the archaeological area of Angkor Thom (L159 - M112), we stop at a check-point, we are given the pass with personal name and picture, valid for access to the archaeological zone. From an organizational point of view a really nice idea to turn all the temples without additional code in order to pay the ticket, this could be a model to be imported in our cities of art in Italy.
Angkor (L137 - M101) was the ancient capital of Cambodia, the temples were built in the 802 made in 1434, during the two periods of "classical Cambodia", we will see works dating from the period up to the Hindu Buddhist period, these two religions are a constant presence. The entrance to the area happens to be a huge place in the portal city wall device. The stone used for construction of most temples is sandstone, the gray stone is mixed with green and brown of lichens grew on the stone itself. The color, the shapes very reminiscent of the Mayan temples in Mexico, also here to share the two cultures was "only" the pacific ocean.
Before you enter the portal of entry, walk to a bridge which are placed side of the statues that bear a huge serpent, the naga, the mythical serpent of Buddhist tradition, often depicted with multiple heads, up to seven, is a symbol often used Angkorian architecture. These figures, placed at the entrance, are to protect the structure.
On the walls and door, carved nell'arenaria, we see the decorations depicting lotus flowers, dancers, elephants and a horse to 5 heads. The huge entrance portal is decorated with an elephant on the side with three heads.
The bridge, the statues and the Portal are partially damaged as a result both of the forest until a few years ago covered the whole, both because of the war and the Khmer Rouge rule, during which many monuments have been shooting.
Through the portal and enter into what was once the religious area and location of the royal palace. We climb on two small buses that accompany us to see the monuments in this area. The stones used for the construction of these temples are from distant quarries 50 km, carried here on rafts, and the building of these structures required the use of thousands of workers.
Entered in the first archaeological temple we see is the Bayon (L160 - M113), the name of the temple was changed under the French, the structure has collapsed because of the time and the growth of the forest, Cambodia, having an alluvial soil, is not subject to earthquakes. Starting from the outer wall you can see the remains of naga supported by angels, as well as lions, and the outer wall of the temple is completely covered with bas-reliefs depicting 15 stories, the extension of these bas-reliefs is 1,200 mt. The temple was built on three floors had 54 peaks goticheggianti containing 216 giant faces of the king, virtually turning the impression in the temple is to be constantly monitored and controlled by the king. By accessing the second floor of the temple, we see stories of Buddha, with polychrome staining of the twelfth century. Here are the course of restoration work on the part of Japanese archaeologists. From the base, the complex with its spire is a mixed storage of stone, just going on the third floor where, unlike the other two-storey square there is a circular platform, are clearly the faces of the king and, as was the manufacturer, the gaze of the king will always observed. The temple was started in 1181 and completed in 1190. The symbols identifying the king with the gods and this feature will find anywhere in these temples.
We leave the temple of Bayon and a few hundred meters later we find the Baphuon (L163 - M114), a monument that is the representation of Mount Meru, a building built before Bayon, this building has three floors, with 12 towers, plus a side Central. He is currently being restored by the French team. The stones of the temple were placed on a sandy bed, over time the roots of plants are penetrated by moving among the boulders, allowing rain water to penetrate and remove the underlying sand bed that has been ruinous collapse of the temple. In 1960 began the first restoration work by the French, interrupted because of the civil war, the restoration continues, and thanks to the photographic documentation of the last century, the sandstone blocks are stored in their original position and if they were too damaged, they are replaced with new blocks faithfully reproduced with the help of the documentation on file, you can now see two of the 12 towers, faithfully restored. The entrance of the temple was to the east, preceded by a sandstone platform 200m long.
We continue onto the tour area and past a wall, the perimeter of 600 to 350 m, access from a portal, restored in 1990 by archaeologists in Indochina, in what was the Royal Court (L164 - M115). The first temple we see is Phimeanakas (L164 - M115), "Palace in the sky", dates back to 944, is also a representation of Mount Meru, was used exclusively for the coronation of kings, there are two tanks that were used to washing real. The Royal Palace in gilded wood is 50 meters from the temple, but was destroyed in the war against the Siamese.
Leaving the perimeter wall directly access (south) to the "Terrace of the Elephants" (L165 - M115), a gigantic gallery 350 meters long, which was dedicated to the public ceremonies and shows of the circus, here are organized buffalo fighting, fights between cocks or wild boar. In the same area, when a king was crowned, held a celebration that lasted 5 days. Front and placed at the opposite limit, rise the towers, among them were pulled ropes where performing balances. The terrace for the Cambodian people, takes its name from the sculptures of elephants that are carved on the facade. At the end of the terrace stands a wall with two to three elephant heads, a symbol that represents the three Hindu deities.

Angkor Thom - 2nd part

Not far away a little more terrace at its top has a statue, the statue was originally the "God of Death" and was positioned at the place where kings were cremated, the people he called "the statue of the Leper King" (L165 -- M115), the origin of the popular name derives from the fact that the sandstone statue shows the mutilated fingers and looked so aseptically, truly resembles a leper.
Let the archaeological site and return to the hotel, buffet lunch, a brief stop and then start. Return of the temples in the area, check-point where you must show the permissions that are checked thoroughly by the guard and soon after we arrived at Angkor Wat (L154 - M108), this building is the second complex protected by UNESCO: the temple par excellence of Angkor, which started in 1113 and completed in 1150. We enter from the west than for the transit of kings. The sun illuminates the building infusing a particular light, it is truly one of the wonders of the world. The construction of Hindu origin is majestic and imposing, built in sandstone also represents the Mount Meru and is surrounded by a moat symbolizing the seven mountains and seven seas must pass to reach the sacred mountain. Near the moat in the calm water, covered with water lilies, the temple is reflected, creating an atmosphere and a vision worthy of the most beautiful photos. We find a group of Italians from Milan, exchange a few words with fellow is always beautiful. Turn around the moat, we approach to the imposing building, the entire outer wall is surrounded by a colonnade, on the wall is a bas-relief carved with Hindu stories, in sec. XVI was the bas-relief painting, some traces of color are still visible. At first floor the building has four courtyards surrounded by colonnades fully covered, at the center of the courtyards accessible from a staircase and surrounded by a border, there are swimming pools that were used for the recovery of rainwater. The sandstone has been deteriorated by time and by forest, this temple built on a sandy bed, and in the basins is good that the rain water remains as little as possible to avoid further damaging the structure (only the outer ditch, which we seen before has a sandy base that allows the permanence of water).
In the arcades are 1000 statues of Buddha dating back to the sixteenth century.; The frames of the roof of the portico are decorated with heads of naga, serpent sacred. The arcade consists of a structure formed by four columns surmounted by a ceiling with a particular form, the columns are arranged so as to create a wider central passage and two side steps closer, the two sides transits the ceiling is one quarter of circle, where the lower part is outside and inside the top. In the central part the ceiling consists of two sandstone walls that rise vertically and then block, also of sandstone, which deteriorates with triangular ranging upwards to close the vault.
Going into the visit of the palace through a narrow and steep staircase access to the second floor, in a courtyard where there is the pyramid terminal. The group will stop in the courtyard, and only a few climb on the pyramid, the same access is given by a steep staircase narrows as you climb, the view from the surrounding temples and on the details of the underlying structure . The descent is facilitated by a rope, the steps of the pyramid are very tall and narrow, I wonder how did the khmer to get on and off, since their height is not high.
Leave the temple when the sunset is approaching, orange illuminating every detail of the stone, the view is really impressive, it is truly one of the wonders of the world.
We continue the tour and nearby bus stops because we are at the base of the hill where the temple of Phnom Bakheng (L168 - M111). E 'possible to accede to the top of the hill using a transport service to the back of elephants. Someone in the group takes advantage of this service, but there is more availability salgo a walk along a forest road that gently around the hill 60 meters high. At the top of the temple lies the destination of many tourists more to see the sunset on the plains below, to see that this structure based on the 5 scale with terraces adorned with lions. From above you see the setting sun illuminates Dorando the lake and the plains at the base of the hill, the contrast with the forest is always strong, light and shadow, constantly struggling and the light gives way to darkness of night descends.
Downstream the hill, the night when it prevails, the last meters are made in the dark, luckily someone had flashlights. Return to hotel, shower, dinner buffet and then .... the group is reflected in the bar, is the birthday of Louise, who are celebrating with a good cake. Greetings! This tour is marked by birthdays, really nice.
At the end of the celebration a little conversation with someone in the group and finally a sleep restorer.

Angkor Thom - 1st part

Breakfast and then departure for the tour of the last temples, Sarath always greets us with "Good morning ladies and gentlemen, as a state, all right?" Is' a greeting that has become a pleasant ritual. Like all guides Cambodian Sarath wearing his uniform, black shoes, blue pants, khaki shirt with appropriate badges on the sleeves of the guide. Around the temples, the guides are always identifiable.
Return to the archaeological area and the first temple that we see is Banteay Srei (L178 - M123), "The Temple of Women", built in 967, is made from yellow-pink sandstone that gives a very nice, the colors are delicate and the entire hotel is completely decorated. In the portal bas indusiata illustrate stories of the goddess Vishnu, inside the wall, next to the main temple stands a finely decorated building is the library. Some bas "taken" by a Frenchman (and still present in the museums in Paris) have been replaced with copies faithfully reproduced. The bas-reliefs carved nell'arenaria colored infuse the feeling that the structure is of carved wood and stone, the colors are warm, harmonious and enveloping.
Outside the temple sellers insistent, at times infuriating trying to sell souvenirs. Along the way a market: a comparison of prices with Burma, Cambodia are much higher, could be the effect of tourism much more widespread here in the state.
Let us go to other temples and along the road we stop in a village where the peasants prepare sugar using the fruits of the palms. With Spartan stairs, practically a bamboo stalk with leaves propaggini that is linked to the trunk, the peasants rose plant collecting the products of the female plants (coconuts still in its infancy) and the pods of the male plants: the lead to ground and using a rudimentary tool, the crush to exit the liquid contained in them. This liquid is boiled in pots placed on an oval wood fire and after two hours of cooking the product is cool it is ready a brown sugar and very sweet.
We leave the village and continue to the temple of Banteay Samra (L174), this temple was built by the Hindu goddess Vishnu, originally was the Temple of the peasants, but was used by the Khmer Rouge as a prison. The entrance to the temple, raised above the surrounding land, is located at the end of a street situated on a terrace to the sides with statues of lions and naga. The internal structure of the temple is made of gray sandstone, while the walls are built with laterite brown, the game of colors creates a beautiful color contrast, inside the temple there are other walls and a series of courtyards, as well as a number of columns and bas-reliefs.
Heading towards the hotel on the way we see the temple of Pre Rup (L174 - M119), single structure with four towers toward the cardinal points and a central body, the grandeur of the five towers is also noticeable from a distance.
Return to hotel for lunch buffet, a brief stop to avoid the heat and then we start to visit the temple of Preah Khan (L171 - M119), the temple was completely enveloped by the forest that has collapsed, partly restored by the Americans, has many blocks of sandstone scattered disorderly on the ground. The temple of the Hindu-Buddhist origin, has the walls of bas-reliefs and lintels supported by columns, there are a series of bas-reliefs depicting dancers. The center of the temple is a room where, on the four cardinal sides, open corridors dotted with columns topped by beams. The optical effect is truly beautiful, everywhere you look, the view is the same (removed the collapsed and not restored).
We continue the visit and see the fourth day, the temple of Preah Neak Pean (L172 - M120). The temple is built on an embankment where, all around was a dam built to contain water for irrigation of rice paddies, the temple is accessed through a dirt road surrounded by water. The complex consists of a central and four side tanks. The central square is also surrounded by a bathtub, in the middle of the round building is the temple, at the base are two naga with tails crossed, the heads are directed to the east and west facing code. Once it was the place of reverence and care of patients, which draw water from the tub and the Central used it to heal from illness. The sides, adjacent to the four tanks four side chapels, each containing a statue / symbol: a statue to the east, which means wisdom, to the north statue dell'elefante which means happiness, to the west of the horse statue that means speed; to the south, the statue of the lion which means power.
We continue the tour by visiting the last day, the temple of Ta Prohm (L166 - M117), it is perhaps the most famous temple in the area, completely surrounded by jungle is photographed and is present on all the tourist guides. Plants have roots among the place of sandstone boulders are grown and have divelto much of the complex, huge plants, with their large roots clamped fast the huge boulders of sandstone. Efforts are under way of the restoration. Inside the temple is a statue of Buddha with incense lit. Originally the statue was adorned with precious stones, which over time have been removed. We return to town and we stop in a shop for tourists, even here we must negotiate the price but the goods, even if traditional craft and has a lot to tourists.
During the return Sarath, explains the situation in Cambodia and Siem Reap, the city has 80 hotels in Cambodia, there are only seven tour guides who speak Italian, because Italians are so organized two years alone.
Passed the elementary schools which are present throughout the country, the schools are located only in big cities and farmers find it impossible to send children to school for the cost.
Farmers cultivate rice of which only one crop a year and then seeded watermelons, to increase profits, cut timber in the forest and work the sugar from palm trees. The rice fields are well kept, the natural annual flooding is well exploit the land is surrounded by palm trees for coconuts and the production of sugar. In Cambodia there is a reservoir that serves to keep rain water to feed the rice fields.
State employees receive a salary of about $ 50 a month, the corruption, too, is very widespread.
Cambodian houses are piles with pillars of wood or cement, the height of dwellings is used to prevent floods, or as storage of rice and other products, for access to the upper floors there are always large and decorated wooden stairs.
Passing close to a structure under construction, is proud to Siem Reap, November 25 there will be an international fair with the presence of 121 foreign countries; around the fair in the construction of access roads, we see a truck carrying sand overturned in a ditch on the land.

Angkor Thom - 2nd part

The Cambodian economy is based on the production of rice at the end is sufficient for national needs, the fruit is imported from neighboring Thailand and Vietnam. Export as there is clothing and silk, manufactured are exported to China, Malaysia and the United States.
Return to the hotel that evening was, shower and then dinner welcomed by a performance by Cambodian dance and music. After dinner, a few words with the group and then to bed.

Phnom Penh - 1st part

Alarm at 6.15, prepare bags for the return home, the garments are made of heavy hand to be recovered tonight before embarking for Italy, where the temperature is decidedly less hot here in Cambodia; wear for the last day light trousers and shirt. Breakfast and then before you leave, we give Sarath clothing to be distributed to local farmers and workers. Leaving the hotel we go to the city to take the direct flight to the capital, in order to take on to pay airport tax of $ 6. Paid the fee can enter the waiting room and a fly on ART 72 Phnom Penh. In Italy are 3, here are the 8th
I note that airports in Cambodia and Burma earlier, exposing all the words ISO 9001, almost to show that all goes well, that are respectful of the law and of international quality system.
Take off and fly over the ordered rice surrounded by palm trees, I see the extension of Tonlé Sap, then other rice fields, a river and tirelessly traveled the plains with sinuous curves is lost on the horizon, a mountain covered with forest cut the rice, which are a loss an eye.
Landed in Phnom Penh, we find that the guide will accompany us for the whole day, is called Ra is cambodian and was in Italy seven years, worked as a steelworker in the province of Brescia, speaks with an Italian accent Brescian correct.
Walking about the streets of the capital, we note that the movement is a little "free", in fact, the bicycles and motorbikes seem to move without any rules and it seems the rule of "who goes first, pass." Ra tells us that in Cambodia the insurance is optional for the Cambodians but it is mandatory for foreign nationals in the event of an accident the issues are resolved between the two contenders, and in case of fatal accident there is prison.
We observe that the Cambodian women tend to cover the face, Ra explains that this is to avoid the sun, is very widespread belief that people are tanned farmers and consequently little tanned women are more likely to find husbands.
The first stop is in the capital at the National Museum (L80 - M73), the museum is structured according to the four historical periods of Cambodia and the rooms are organized by objects made of materials similar, almost to show the trend. Begins around the museum with a room containing a bronze statue from the XI to the XVIII century. And some high bill. In the next room there are statues of sandstone. statues of schist and marble, many of them come from the temples, since before the fourteenth century. temples were not only monks but statues. Turning into the museum and see the seating for the monks and saddles for the real elephant, known to an albino elephant. Are shown in real sedan made with bamboo fabric and embellished with gold. In other rooms you can see textiles, pottery, terracotta pots, and a hall containing statues of Buddha from various pagodas.
Leave the National Museum and we head towards the Russian market (L104 - M75), where a blanket is all clothing, handicrafts, hardware, jewelry, music, and the prices are sometimes negotiable, sometimes much less, group there are those who buy and those who only runs between the stalls.
We cross the city to go to the restaurant placed in the river and along the way we see the building of the parliament building, in a square and the colossal modern mausoleum of independence (L83 - M77).
We arrive at the restaurant, finally the opportunity to taste the true Cambodian cooking, not just the proposed international buffet from Siem Reap, peanuts, rice rolls, rice pasta with shrimp, cambodian carpaccio (beef, onion, peppers, whole seasoned with local fruit juices), vegetables without meat, a local dish (fish, mushrooms and lemon grass), sweet (pineapple in pasta and fried rice, coconut pulp of banana leaf and other fresh local) at the end of the lunch fruit: pineapple, banana and watermelon.
We leave the restaurant to head for the Palazzo Reale (L78 - M69), in the courtyard on a yard waving the flag of Cambodia, which means that the king is in the country, otherwise the flag is positioned lower. Next to building a highly decorated building attracts attention, is the place where the kings are cremated. Enter the building, in part accessible to the public. The palace was built in 1913, in strict respect for the tradition was only made of wood, now rebuilt, is a solid brick structure adorned with golden decorations. The building has a total of five inputs, each dedicated to a specific transit type, the entry of the king, that for the people, one for monks, one for the exit of kings died and the part of the building is open only to three areas.
All buildings are decorated and colored with four colors; cha is green vegetation, blue is the color yellow represents Buddhism and the white used for the columns represents Hinduism.
We enter a courtyard and there are a number of buildings all finely decorated, the harmony is great, the gardens are well cared for, the atmosphere is very regal.
An imposing building with a large staircase, is the throne room, it is necessary to go to remove the shoes as a sign of respect, it only passes on the right side of the room, the room is impressive, the ceiling is frescoed with stories of gods. The golden throne is only used for the coronation of the king, the walls are painted with floral and geometric patterns of white and yellow that give a unique touch of preciousness. Behind the throne used for the coronation of the king, the throne of s'intravede queen.
We leave the throne room and on the left (looking at the entrance to the hall) we visit a museum where clothes are kept by the king, queen, soldiers of the royal palace, and all are finely worked gold. Just down the hall of mannequins wearing the clothes used by the king's handmaids, are seven models, with seven different colors that represent the seven days of the week and seven planets. In display cases adjacent to a wall you can see objects in silver and priestly garments used in actual ceremonies.
Not far away a building decorated in iron, is the pavilion donated by Napoleon III to Cambodia.
Walk the yard, past a wall and access to another area of the palace, surrounded by porticoes painted entirely in a courtyard we see many well kept flower beds with plants and flowers, whose colors brighten the entire area. At the center of Silver Pagoda (L79 - M72), after removing the shoes can access this temple whose name derives from the silver tiles that make up the floor, at the center of a temple of Buddha statue attracts attention, natural height is achieved with 90 kg of gold. Behind an altar, which in its vertical reach the ceiling, we see a statue of Buddha made entirely of emerald. Along the walls are statues of Buddha, gold, gold, jade, marble. In a display case you see funerary masks and the real sedan. There are many votive objects (statues of gold, pottery gold and silver).

Phnom Penh - 2nd part

The security service is discreet and consistently present in the structure there are large systems of electronic surveillance, but only enough that someone tries to steal any object you look at the damage the alarm and the "unlucky" is subjected to "trial summary "people on the public square. One method is simple and effective way to discourage any attacker.
Leave the royal palace with its colors, its gardens, its elegant buildings that express beauty, and come through the town at the base of an artificial hill, and Wat Phnom (L82 - M77). Willed by Princess Penh, the hill was built in 1372 the name of the capital comes from this union "the city of Phnom and the hill of Penh. On top of the hill, a temple, today destination of many pilgrimages, in an altar with four statues of gilded wooden Buddha in the center of the temple a statue of Buddha. The walls are dotted paintings, oil painting of wood, depicting the life of Buddha. Leave the temple and descend the hill surrounded by kids who want to sell all along the descent of the beggars are and the surrounding park are monkeys.
We continue the journey to the airport and we stop to see Wat Ounalom (L82 - M77), the central monastery, inside there is a stupa with a temple which holds the edge of a Buddha, the golden stupa of the fourteenth century., has recently been restored, the internal structure of the temple is in sandstone. Outside there are bronze statues of the thirteenth century. Come from various temples and, as we have already seen at the National Museum, the statues were found in temples before the monks. To the left and right sides of the central stupa are a series of six smaller stupas white.
We resume our journey and we stop to see the confluence of four rivers that come together in one, here some of the stalls selling delicacies for Cambodians. I look good, and I can not believe my eyes! M'avvicino and I realize that the view is not me, on stands arranged in stacks well ordered and there are uniforms, blacks spiders, cockroaches, silkworms, shrimp, whole fried grasshoppers, as well as crab and roasted quail. The seller, all content of the calls someone exposes the group to taste these delicacies, "a gentle refusal seems the best choice, dating coach being hit on the flavor of the Cambodians. Continuing the tour of the city and we stop to photograph the modern mausoleum of independence that we had glimpsed in the morning.
The return trip to the airport in the middle of a messy and chaotic traffic where it seems really that the first pass that would have priority should go anywhere. Ra tells us that in Cambodia the public health is for everyone, but health functioning is private, the board is only for state employees.
We leave Phnom Penh that the sky is cloud and threatening rain, we lived just days after the monsoon, a roar, but all in all we were not very wet.
We arrive at the airport and before boarding the suitcases to Milan, we take the warm clothes we had prepared. The 31 bags are on board, move a little group increases waiting times, but when all is good organization. The controls are strict in output and "rigorous" is also the unexpected airport tax to leave the country $ 25, a real theft. But it is a "stylish" to request a contribution for the construction of the airport and a new bridge, if the Italian state to adopt this system, we avoid the taxes.
Fly to Bangkok, the flight proceeds quiet, after about an hour as we see a myriad of lights, we are in Thailand, landed in Bangkok, just see the plane turns four planes behind us who are preparing to landing. For the umpteenth time passing through the airport, a few hours waiting for the flight to Italy, there's change, let the pants and light shirts and sweatshirts to wear. Advantage of the break to accommodate the notes and write the first thoughts of the journey.
C'imbarchiamo thaj accepted the hospitality of the flight to Milan Malpensa airport is quiet, at 7.40 Italian landed in Burma are 12.40. Over a thousand eyes golden pagodas, hundreds of statues of Buddha, the imposing buildings of Ankor .... Writing this diary recounts the mind as in a film along the entire trip and I hope that the reader can be led by these feelings.
And ... .. curious as a good traveler, even if Burma I was particularly impressed with its beauty, the mind is already thinking about where to go in the next trip ....

Three valid motivations to go in :

Burma

• Go in Burma today means to travel back a few years compared to Italy, but this should not be a deterrent but an incentive to visit this wonderful country where people are polite, hospitable and respectful of those who approached them with simplicity.
• Being able to turn in a country where colors, scents, flavors are characteristic of everyday life, where history, art, culture and religion are mixed together in creating a unique reality of unique beauty.
• Traveling in this country also means helping people to grow to achieve autonomy and a sustainable economy, developing a change towards a better future that no longer see the children working in the fields, in workshops, maintenance of roads. A constant presence would give the opportunity to witness dramatic events directly, as the authorities' decision to inundate large areas by opening a dam river, with enormous human cost, material and cultural population.


Cambodia

• Traveling in Cambodia amounts to come into contact with a country just out of the oppression of the Khmer Rouge. It means to observe a civilization that is undergoing rapid change, where the cities are widening urbanistically and where rural life is still the predominant feature.
• Visit Cambodia today can see the archaeological area, many temples still enveloped by the forest and thus be able to witness the rediscovery of the signs of an ancient civilization.
• Traveling in this country does have an already well organized tourism, where the Italians are seen and are expected from the cambodian people.

Thanks to:

At the end of this work, I express my personal thanks to all those who have enabled the realization of this trip is beautiful and fascinating, full of religious sites, historical, cultural but also imbued with humanity, the dignity of peoples and people I had the opportunity to meet. Gratitude to those who encouraged me and who I have seen the creation of this journal.


A special thanks to:
• Don Maurizio Corbetta, priest Rovello Porro (CO), creator of the trip.
• The travel agent to Pavia Alohatour (www.alohatour.it - tel. 0382.5395.65) for the overall organization.
• The tour operator Ancient Splendours of Turin (www.antichisplendori.it - tel. 011.8126.715) for the well-articulated and provided useful information.
• Soso, guidance Burma, for the high professionalism demonstrated, for bringing us closer with ability, preparation and respect for culture and tradition in Burma.
• Sarath and Ra, the Cambodian guide, for the effort shown in the Italian and speak for their preparation.
• The relevant agencies in Burma (Interconnection Travels Myanmar) and Cambodia (Phnom Penh Tour Monsoon), for an excellent proven competence in organizing stays and all land travel, river and air.
• Society of Micro-and Saronno (www.micro-e.it - tel. 02.9602.887) for material technology, computer and have received assistance for the implementation of the diary in the media.
• Who (Francesca, Natalia, Francis, Peter and Laura) in various kinds have contributed to the design, presentation, to correct the diary and the invention of hypertext.