Sri Lanka - one week tour between temples, sea and the wonderful Sinhalese people

We have learned through confirmation of the tour operator Azemar (with whom we traveled), which the Dickwella, our Hotel in the South of Sri lanka, was completely swept away by tzunami and that devastated Asia in December 2004 that end. It is currently under reconstruction, but the village has suffered serious damage and many people died.
I invite you to read very closely the story, to reflect and not forget the wonderful people who populate and Sri lanka that has been so hard hit by the tsunami. I am not sure if those guys and those dear children of which I speak and I knew are still alive ...
I turned a forum on my site to deal specifically Dickwella and the surrounding area:
www.ivanweb.net

 

The travel

We are Elmas, are the three in the afternoon just past. The new airport of Cagliari, recently expanded, is totally unrecognizable. Now, finally took shape more international! We have to wait just a quick check-in and the flight is on time at 16:10 to Milan Malpensa.
Arrive after an hour and a little more. Hurry calmly formalities and collection of luggage, we have a lot to wait. The agency has kindly called yesterday by reporting a delay of beautiful one and a half hours for the flight Milan Malpensa - Colombo. Instead of starting to 23:00 touches wait until past midnight. We do a nice tour of patrol throughout the airport and choose a quiet place where to wait. Stefania buy a few more or less cultural, and begins to read. In boredom, some shooting around with the camera to document this long wait. At least there is the excitement of the journey, we know that it's worth and that the return will be much worse, given that we spend the entire night thrown somewhere in the airport! Consultations of the monitor departures: finally compare our flight. Reach the area looking for our group tour operator Azema. We are given all the documentation of the trip, itinerary, vouchers for airline tickets and resort. We even offer a backpack not just beautiful with those blue-brown color and the text Azema, and a bag with the same style. System in the bag all the documentation, but the backpack just do not know what to do! Takes us unprepared, we have ours, so we find ways to put in the bag of the good and Stefania better. Let's do the check-in, we got rid of the luggage (two suitcases and a duffel bag for snorkelling equipment), and eagerly await the final minutes before the flight.
Take-off comes even in the night, just in time for a painful sleep groped by airplane. Eurofly flight is ultimately comfortable, certainly more of the smaller places of China Airlines, which we took to go to Thailand last year. Needless to say that the window do not see anything, it's dark pesto, so that does not remain with the display console of the seat to see if there is some interesting films and scrutinize the position of the plane that slowly begins to draw the white line of route on a map and grind over the 4000 miles that separate us from Sri-Lanka. Are finally turned off the lights and we can settle down seats.

Colombo. Tour of the city. Visit to Hindu and Buddhist temples. Accommodation at Trans Asia Hotel

Hard to say what time is it, the plane windows are still closed and we are in the middle of the Indian connection in some time zone. The staff will serve breakfast and nap await the arrival in Colombo. Finally open the windows. One sees only the sea but yet the map marks the plane is arriving at your destination. He began the descent towards the capital of Sri lanka. The landing takes place at 14:30 local time, which, when removed, the five time zones, they become almost nine hours to fly from Milan.
The airport of Colombo appears spartan and essential. Collect your luggage quickly and change at 50 euros to prevent start-up costs. The change seems good to 107.59 for a total of 5379.5 rupees. Much higher than that cited in the Lonely Planet now dating a few years ago. So we are at, where we meet our group of Italians dell'Azemar under the sole guidance of Gianfranco, a boy about thirty. All together we now know who are our traveling companions: a pair of guys like us, Luke and Marzia, a pair of gentlemen, Ambrose and Gabriella, two girls, Doriana and Patrizia, and then yet another woman, Franca, and another boy, Mauro. Ten in all, from different parts of Italy and of different ages.
Gianfranco expect that the committee and go through some formalities, to finally move to our bus. Two boys, among the many who lined up just waiting, as customary in these parts, bring the bags to our room for a hundred meters, and now we spend our first 50 rupees tip. He quite hot and the sun beats.
We climb on our bus, similar to our Italian, which is practically empty as only ten! During the first part, Gianfranco them opportunity to present and explain some things about practices, customs and traditions. First of all: Do not be daunted by the tremendous leadership of the Sinhalese who are over and pulled on all sides for no apparent reason, do not save to cut off the road and playing the horn at most can not. One notices it immediately in the first km ...
At this point, the flight being late, we find ourselves having to risk a choice not just: instead of going immediately to the hotel as originally planned by the program, and then make the rounds of the city included in the package, Gianfranco first proposed to choose for the tour, since they are already half past three o'clock and six o'clock dark. After a full day of travel, especially for us from Cagliari we had to wait many hours in Milan, is a po 'exhausting but nevertheless decide unanimously to not miss the chance to see Columbus. The dream of a nice shower, a lavish rest and a decent meal is delayed: after all, we are on holiday you need to be super active!
After an hour's journey we pass in front of our hotel. Difficult to say how many kilometers from the airport we did, surely it is straightforward to say that the city of Columbus appears exterminated in a continuous succession of houses, shops, vehicles of all kinds (from carts to tuk-tuk, rickety buses to utility, very rare luxury cars). I expected much smaller and contained, but is probably widespread at the lack of tall buildings. The remainder of the scene is typical of eastern countries: many markets, stalls colored traffic possessed.
Our first stop is a Hindu temple. As soon as we descend from the bus the impact is not really the best, I have to say much more raw and harder than what you feel walking through the streets of Bangkok. To decaying hovels are flanked angles of total immondezzaio, where cats and dogs, almost all with obvious signs of disease and condition, looking for something to eat. Fortunately there are also people. All this in just one hundred meters of road that separates us from the temple. We hope that the rest of the city is not all like that!
We observe amazed the facade of the temple, full of statues and sculptures that emerge from all parts of creating games and superb color depth. Cannot affixed immediately begin to move closer to our lump, clear attitude of alms. A few euro cents for those people who are worth money. Gianfranco nell'autobus explained that their average monthly salary ranges between twenty fifty dollars for those who are more fortunate. Giving a tip of one hundred rupees, equivalent more or less to one euro, it means giving a whole day of hard work to a Sinhalese. It 'also true that begging is never good, as it is not nice to see these poor people suffering from the sides and pull, often barefoot and bare chest, all around you waiting to receive something.
Leave your shoes at the entrance and enter the temple. The open part is not very big, there is only a matter of room. The frescoes and interior in general are a little 'let go, but in better times would be really nice and bright. An elderly gentleman, and there follows a sudden a few words in English to make a sort of guide. Needless to say, at the tip calls, which informs us Gianfranco however not be mandatory in any case. While I take the shoes so I leave twenty rupees a gentleman who does not seem very happy or satisfied, and continues to ask with an attitude that almost indispettisce me.
Let's go back to the bus and continue for another temple, this time a Buddhist, to Gangaramaya. The entrance fee and costs 100 rupees each. Well, at least so it puts things in clear by now: you pay and no tip! The entrance is extravagant, with many trinket, figurines and gifts scattered everywhere. Inside it seems a sort of museum, with objects and relics of all sorts, some very colorful and somewhat bizarre. The old blends with the modern way without the middle. We go out in an outdoor courtyard, in front of hundreds of statues arranged in an organized way and create an equally beautiful glance. Side of the car perfectly preserved vintage makes it even more the idea of the museum extravagant. Another room of objects and emerge in another courtyard with a giant Bodhi tree. After some explanation of Gianfranco Italian and leader of the Temple in English, finally, we return the bus.
Our next goal is a large souvenir shop, where Gianfranco advised to look to begin to realize the prices. Of way, before you get there, we can see windows quickly by some monuments typical of Colombo, where the temple on the lake, the Trade Center, even the original Town Hall built as identical copies of the White House!
So we come to our store, divided into three floors, each one full of many objects and souvenirs of every kind: wooden statues, masks typical, and batik cloth, dresses, sarongs, paintings, handicrafts, spices, cards, really everything. Despite Ste and I had promised before not to come to spend anything, because this is only the first store we visit, we can not but be affected by many who would really cosettine throat to take home. It 'so our final choice rests on a very nice and very original elephant for us, made a carved coconut, with a trunk and paintings drawn in black. Wonderful! Its cost is 360 rupees (3.5 euros).

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Visit to the sea turtles center. Arrival at Dickwella village.

At 7:30 we are at all. Arrive and depart the bus. The first two and a half hours of travel are all in town, a continuous scroll of houses and stalls, people who go to work, school, groups of people in some kind of local events that appear to our eyes, to say the least, folkloric . Not understand now if we are still in Colombo, in the suburbs, or who knows where.
Finally you see the ocean, with views more and more frequent. We are following that are equal to the coast, between flat and repetitive landscapes, but in some places and very beautiful and evocative. The houses sparsely leaving room for lush green vegetation of tall palm trees, while overtaking, for us and without hazardous effect, are repeated on a steady road to just two lanes, narrow and certainly not in perfect condition. Made by a bus then appear even more inappropriate, but so is the leadership in Sri lanka! On balance, however, there is no high speed, and there is practically never stops for the lack of traffic lights or traffic jams. It keeps a constant speed of 40-50 kilometers per hour: everything goes slower is exceeded, including vehicles, cars, other buses, which are on straight or curved. Of course that is similar for those who go faster than us, who do not save to operate overtaking our bus continuous play between the horn and turns on sharp fall in the ward.
Stop the transition to a turtle, to observe the growth and breeding of these wonderful animals centenarians. The entry ticket costs 100 rupees (1 euro). From a piece of land, protected by a fence, emerge of sticks of wood: here are laid the eggs of turtles, we are told by the guide. Later, a tank containing hundreds of tiny pieces just born that made the first swim. We take one hand to caress, it's beautiful! In other basins, there are still large ones, which show a beautiful shell, which seems designed by the hand of a great artist. There are no pet safely retract the head, are accustomed to human presence. We are right in front of a beautiful, long ocean beach, with sand and the sea bream is a beautiful green meadow dominated by tall coconut palms. Soon discover that this is a typical coastal landscape Sinhalese.
Left the center, we continue the journey pausing only once to break the so-called "toilet", the rest due after hours and hours of buses ... It 'a kind of market that sells snacks and beverages of various kinds. During the wait I look around the street: we are truly in another world that does not look like a Western!
Let Galle, an important coastal city south of the point of view for its location, history for the strong Portuguese, and cultural features for fishermen. We see some in the sea, fishing, hanging in that their singular stilts that made them so famous.
We shall also Matara and passed the extreme southern point of Sri lanka, we come at last after a few kilometers Dickwella, a modest and small village of fishermen and artisans. Our hotel, which takes its name from the same village, is on the main road. Who are entering the 14:30: fell seven hours after our departure! The first impact is not at all bad, and despite having seen the wonderful photos from the Internet, I am still amazed by the beauty of this place.
We are greeted with a cheerful ceremony rite that is, between the sounds of strange drums and wind instruments, nell'accendere a candle and make a wish. It is up to the first women and then men. We drink a refreshing drink and come together in a room, the No. 37, which is welcoming, spacious, window and exit by the opposite side to the green lawn overlooking the beach. The furniture is all wood sheets are decorated with colored petals, and a big smiling sun painted shines above our bed. That said, we are happy and excited as the start goes well!
I am facing the window and see two sun lounger and a hook to draw the clothes, then a young man greets me in the distance and told me to come to him. But there is no time to explore now, not even open his bags and leave immediately for lunch because that is past 15:00. We covered the picturesque driveway, also all wood, which leads from our reception and other rooms and later at the center of the village, where there is a swimming pool, two towering palms and a room where air is take a meal when it's nice weather, as in this case. Some nice and colorful depictions of peacocks and elephants on the walls, with a sense of depth to make them appear almost sculptures make it very pleasing to the eye.
We also find this time around the group already at the table, but these are lightning! Let's check immediately that the menu is to our liking. The dishes are not very many but there is our dear and beloved wood-burning oven with a chef ready to prepare delicious pizzas. Why reject a proposal so attractive? During lunch Gianfranco speaks a little 'how is the village, what can we do, schedules to follow and so on. Suggest that it is always better, as in all the hotels, do not leave cash around the room, but not to worry at all for other things, of value, since a complaint for theft in these parts is regarded as very serious and would be the ruin of the employee who holds dear to his job and his dignity. He explained that the tours are all half-day and take place during the afternoon. In this respect we can choose between different options and determine immediately, to begin with, the days when we want to make two trips included in the package, the one in Matara and the Temple of Mulkirigala.
So let's go back to the room, rest a few minutes and go out for a walk alone on the beach before sunset. The place is truly beautiful: the beach of sea bream is lost on the left up to the towering palms along the coast, which stretches to reach the ocean perpetually moved. On the right hand the rocks mark the tip of Dickwella, where the waves break causing uproar with high spray of water. In the sea shore as we see some local fishing boats, the odd shape and construction. Sull'imbarcazione The place is small, at most two or three people, long and narrow, all from one side.
Let us return to the village center, behind the pool, where a white wall of the fence marks the Dickwella towards the beach where the sun sets. Hence the arc of the beach is smaller and repaired, the fact remains that the ocean has always moved and indeed on the horizon, quite impressive with mighty waves breaking on the rocks. Here you can see many more fishermen at work, while the gate overlooking the beach of the sea bass we caught local children, who begin to speak in Italian, not a little surprising. Are three, one boy and two girls, but the alarm is the girl who bears the name of Nilani.
Children will show very nice and in a few words in Italian and gesticulation different, we can find out their names, how many years, where they live and what they do.
At six o'clock the sun sets, giving a brief and splendid spectacle of a deep red color, which does not fail to document with many pictures and filming. Let it return to room and wait for dinner.

Tour in Mawella to see the "Blow Hole", the head of the ocean.

Let's go back to the room at 9:30 and see some of our group to pass. We arrive and begin the long trek to the beach over the sea bream, which starts from Dickwella and continues for three kilometers to the horizon. Together with us are some of the boys, and three others of the place, the "Beach Boys". We remain somewhat 'astounding that the immediate spat comes between them and Gianna with various accusations being too heavy for a variety of events happened a few days ago. We try, as far as possible, leaving nothing to the debate and not spoil the beautiful landscape that surrounds us. The beach is wide and stretches stretches almost disappears under the tall palm trees and dense vegetation behind, forced to walk on water pleasantly warm, almost to body temperature. There is much wind and the sea is rough, so we are not inspired to swim even if the bottom is very low and does not entail any danger. The sun is, unfortunately for most of the time covered by clouds, but sometimes, when you are out, the sea offers beautiful colors with hues ranging from emerald green all'azzurro more intense. Do not see a single tourist on the whole beach up on the horizon! We have only ourselves and a few rare local Sinhalese going to fish, to swim with your dog or a romantic walk with parasols.
The first animals we encounter are dogs, and many other cuccioletti somewhat 'larger living freely on the beach. Are obviously strays, and should not have easy life that have seen obvious signs of disease. Better not herself at the moment, even if poor seem harmless. Then we come across a couple of cows firm, who knows, maybe in the sun. I have yet to ever see them in the middle of a beach!
Meanwhile, the spat and the Beach Boys continue assiduously trying to talk with us, supporting their good faith and the fact that they are not cheaters. A situation somewhat 'difficult not to feel or believe or critical, since we just arrived and do not know the rules of these places! If in doubt try to avoid them, and still does not give confidence. We are still affected by the fact that they also speak good Italian, with good knowledge of grammar and a large vocabulary.
The next appointment with the local fauna is the macaque with the cap, a Bertucci very common in Sri lanka. There are two for the accuracy, tied to a rope over a branch of a tree: a drink from a bottle of species and the other watching us indifferent. Ask one of the Beach Boys on the side because we are related, since it is obvious that we first whale suffered for the idea that it is made there to tourists. Replied that it is not, are there other reasons and soon to be released first. It is not entirely convincing, but the confidence we could be right.
We are a little 'behind the group, slowed by the numerous photos and film are a must. Reach them after a while ', stop to admire a huge hedgehog, rather different from ours, with long quills blacks. There is also shown how to create a resistant rope made from the hair of the shell of coconut, which is not wasted just for nothing.
We pass a few boats and fishermen's houses and come to the end of the beach, admiring the Bay up on the horizon, on the other side, where one sees clearly the picturesque architecture of Dickwella. Franca is the only brave to take a bath, despite the wind, while the rest of the group, including us, is content to chat and watch the beautiful landscape.
You go back, but not before observing a beautiful sea eagle that flies over the ocean in search of booty daily. The rest of the group goes on while I stop and Ste several minutes in awe of this magnificent specimen, I can return the good (and above all to see!) With my digital camera, which with a 20x zoom can be used practically as binoculars!
This time we are very backward and remain with us only two Beach Boys, two boys just above the twenty that are named Gian and Upal. Their knowledge of Italian is amazing, and so, even if at a po 'of distrust and reluctantly, take a long detailed discussion about their habits and customs. Explain that there are fishermen, but outside of the hours of fishing are trying to round off with something Dickwella customers. Are neither sellers nor procurers, are simply escorts, but are able to provide, on request, almost everything. Their way of life is very essential to have the goods of primary necessity and the state helps by distributing rice, clothes for school children and so on. He explained precisely while passing in front of a yard behind the beach, where a crowd of people waiting in rows listening to a megaphone to voice. In the same place tomorrow will be on the market. Unfortunately the whole world is country and even here the role politics plays a double-sided. The aid came mostly in the electoral period, involving many women and children who are usually more at home, while men are well aware that once past the elections everything will return as before. Duty to respond with what happens in Italy, we too have our problems, albeit at a different level.
At three o'clock the afternoon we arrive at the reception along with the whole group. Expect the van with Gianfranco for the tour to Mawella, which has been proposed to the price of ten euros per person. The driver is waiting, and after half an hour of delay finally depart. The first goal is the home of Flavio, an Italian (it says Gianfranco) who has invested here in Sri lanka buying a beautiful land with breathtaking views and built a house with a pool, to say the least enviable. To get there, walk down a narrow dirt road very evocative, full of holes and overhanging the sea. We really hit the scene once the property of Flavio. The estate is situated on a green hill with tall palm trees, with the landscape and the ocean on a small island connected to the mainland by an isthmus of beach that seems, during high tide, even disappear. The sea is very rough on the right side dell'istmo and calm on the left. E 'here we are going to do a little' for snorkelling.
We continue to Mawella, another village to become a tourist route of the "Blow Hole", the head of the ocean, a rare phenomenon known in only twelve places on the planet, of which this is the second most important. So quoting the Lonely Planet and we believe potercene to boast! All this is nothing more than a tall and powerful spray of the ocean, which overwhelmingly comes out from a crack on the rocks (a real hole) with the strong pressure that is created as waves and ocean currents. It seems that the best times to reach 25 meters in height, which are really so many!

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Wewurukannala Vihara Buddhist temple. Tour: Weligama (gems), Matara (batiks)

The temple called Vihara Wewurukannala, and a mixture of influences from Buddhism and Hinduism, who seem to merge together and in harmony sincere. Tickets cost a ridiculous amount to get something more for those who have the camera and the camera, but Gian Upal and make us pay a lump sum only the input. We must of course remove their shoes. I just enter and Ste in the Buddhist, being very impressed by the pace and the atmosphere of the place. Our improvised escorts us explain the meaning of various statues: reincarnation, for example, represented in a row of over 50 buddha one behind the other, or the difference between the position of the Buddha died and the sleeper, which is perceived only alignment of the fingers or toes.
We leave this first part of the temple and enter a side in another section, one dedicated to hell. I am a po 'shocked, just did not think that there was the concept of hell for Buddhists, unless they are not Hindu influence. Religions are not my forte! The Lonely Planet mentions this as a sort of comic disneyland and in fact is not very far from reality. At the entrance a number of statues in the same terrifying but funny in their execution, are a horrific torture of a man upside down while it is being sawn in two, starting by the low (ahi that bad, heck!) And the devil horns with both . From here onwards there are corridors, all meticulously painted on both sides, where at the top are the misdeeds done in the land, and at the bottom the corresponding hellish torture. A huge inferno of Dante with a few hundred rounds! Unfortunately there is very dark and you can not return well, we see clearly that the paintings are somewhat 'easy to let go without any protection and maintenance, as do almost everything around here, and is a great pity!
Once this unique and interesting visit, we go up the stairs in the vast open space that goes to the giant and colorful statue of the Buddha, and enter the base. A long series of steps, broken in stages by different room with walls painted too, rise to the top. We arrive in a first panoramic terrace just behind the head of the statue and climb the last flight of stairs. The view is wonderful and worth the effort! We observe for several minutes, the structure of the temple, those small little below us, and all the dense forest of palm trees to the horizon. One sees very well even across the road that we had to come here and the field of lotus flowers. Gian indicates trees in the distance, explaining that there are lots of bats and may lead us to see them. Interesting! But now there is no time, so we promise to go tomorrow.
We must return quickly to Dickwella for lunch and to speed up the time we take a tuk-tuk. The driver asks just 50 rupees (0.50 euros) for this route and there think twice. Climb in four more drivers in the middle of this tiny three-wheeler is a fun as unconscious! We experience so this means for the first time in Sri lanka, totally identical to that of Thailand homonymous. Experience even less pleasant, the holes of the road!
After lunch the appointment is at 14:30 at the reception for the tour in Matara, which is included in our travel package. This time the bus is on time and arrive two to stay even more comfortable. The first step is to Weligama: more or less three quarters of an hour journey characterized by continuous overtaking and driving sports car and driver that seems to compete with its rival, the party in advance. Bets are made, the funny jokes by Mauro, Luca Marzia and together with us in the same coach who comes first? In extremis exceeded our comrades on the Mercedes seems now been designated, but our driver is dismantled at the wrong lane once you are in Weligama! The path we are past: lost bet.
Gianfranco us inside a dwelling, which is actually a real factory artisan gems. We are being offered something to drink in a lounge, then we start the tour back in the laboratory, where we witness the manufacture of stone material. Different people handle precise tools wisely and patiently, one by one, the buds produce step by step into a mini-chain assembly. The final product is then brought into a more beautiful living room and finished, the place for the trading and sales. We are here to admire these small and precious items on display in shop windows covered, while someone in the group try to negotiate and even to conclude a purchase.
Heading in the moving van in Matara, a few miles away. Here we enter into another home-workshop, this time of batik. In a small outdoor courtyard are some women who work the fabric, also with an enviable patience and precision, covering the wax of a specific color of the picture, which then goes wet and dry, remove the wax and putting on the of the design which presents a different color. It 'an incredible job, I never thought that there could be all that behind those paintings and sarongs cloth hung on the wall! Some are beautiful even if they are still tarpaulins and then not completed. It 'clear, as we are told that the more expensive batik are those with more colors, because each color results in a further more "past" in a matter of processing. And yet, fundamental, true batik is what has the same design on the mirror, turning the fabric from one place to another. If not, this is "only" cloth worked, but not of original batik. How many things you learn! The final product is presented in a separate room where the sale takes place among the most heated negotiations. We see something nice but the crowd and the price, around twenty-five euro make us desist for the time of purchase.

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Bats. Artisan woodworking. Ayurveda massage. Visit to a local house. Local dances

We meet with Gian and Upal beach to see the bats. The tuk-tuk is suddenly a real Jeep!
We stop at the threshold of the dense forest, near a rural house, little better than a shack. A child comes out of the door and watches us curious, shy. Gian mentions to observe the top of the trees, which are high at least twenty meters, where you see dozens of bats sleeping with our heads hung down to the branches. We remain open-mouthed, but the fun is yet to come. Arriva the driver speaks a little 'with Gian and he tells us that now go to some sort of exploding firecracker to make them fly. Their faces light up like those two kids ready to play marachella but Ste and I we do not agree to burst so that, with respect for those poor animals sonnecchianti. In fact, we explain, are not dangerous and barrels are not even noise. Are harmless smoke them awake for a few minutes and then back everything as before. Throw in their business and disappear behind the trees of the forest. We hear a buzz in the distance and see the smoke, while at the same time hundreds of huge bats begin to fly and scream above our heads turning round! We remain open-mouthed, there are an incalculable amount, much more than those who saw the naked eye! Fortunately there flying at high altitudes and do not close. For us it was a great emotion!
The driver makes an amusing reversal between the lawn and the small path, then again Sorbates Heading in the chasms of the earth. Ripasso opposite Dickwella Gian and asks us if we are going to see a house where they work handcrafted wooden statuettes. But yes why not, we have now! We also collect Upal since we on the side opposite to the town center and the controls are not there. A few minutes later we arrive in front of a typical local home. This is far more welcoming than that seen before, but always very small. We enter the hall where a child salute. There is a television and furniture is not bad. Behind lies the laboratory, so call it, the owner who is out now. I am surprised they are all here as a family, you come so easily in the homes of others without putting any kind of problem. It is evident that the craftsman is now out and so Gian Upal and think they show how the tools of the trade! They take so much of hammer and chisel, made strictly in wood in a very simple and primitive, and mimic the act of carving wood still rough, first to become a small work of art. There are some models that are not yet completed to understand the various steps of processing. It 'incredible, it's all done by hand, for statuette statuette! Not there will never be equal because there are no mechanical and industrial: here we are talking about crafted pure one hundred percent!
After the demonstration we enter a room for the display of the final product. We understand now that all parties working in the same way. The works are almost all craft, whether souvenirs to precious gems, wood, clothes and so on, the concept of the factory and mass production does not exist, you work at home at the same time is divided in the laboratory and room for display and sale. Spettacolino completed the walk with them on the other side of the rocks, where the sun, toward the arch of the beach that so far we have not yet seen. There are many fishermen in the sea about those strange, narrow boats that look like catamarans. Someone nicely even with the arm salutes to our passage. The sand of sea bream, the tall palm trees and dense vegetation, there are exactly as in the coast so far sight. At the end of the beach, the landscape is beautiful. Behind us we see the Dickwella while facing the sun is setting by coloring all over with yellow and red fire. We are equipped with stands and the streets to make some unforgettable photos. They do one to two children on our right, seated next to a building in ruins with no roof. An abandoned like so many others believe, but Gian and Upal tell me that in fact this is the school! The sun goes down quickly not disappointing our expectations and giving photographs a sunset to remember the ocean, at 18:00 o'clock.
While we go back to the light falls, Nilani tenderly invites us to see her home. We are off and some 'hesitant, but she insists on taking the hand and we agree. Moreover, such an opportunity does not happen every day. Crossing the lawn at the back end of the beach and the main road, which we follow for a short stretch. Cross this and we are in a small and poor neighborhood of homes and shanties. There is no street lights either, just earth and mud. We have some difficulty even getting to pending because it slips a lot. The house we visit is that of a child is in masonry but is almost a ruin. Gian says that the poorest families, such as this, not even the current and the electric light. In fact see the candles from the holes in the wall where reality should have windows, and some people on the bottom that is washed with a bucket. The most fortunate have even instead of the TV, and share together in groups to see it. Come to us for the rite of football. We are attentive and quiet, immersed in that for us this is the first real experience of poverty. Not even close, I thought to take photos or do some of these people is not the case. Nilani asks me, as I guide taking tenderly by the hand, what do you think of everything and I, embarrassed more than ever, trying to be responding with a normal "nice here." Bad output, but the rest can be said in these cases? I am amazed answered in Italian: "Carino This is nice!". I will never forget his expression when I said, so surprised and equally provocative.
We move a little 'about in his house. Here's the electricity, but the conditions are very bad. We sit a while 'on the porch watching all around. After a few minutes comes the mother and other children: they are our brothers and sisters, seven in all! Make us sit inside, in a room of modest size, with a broken bed and a whole cloud of mosquitoes everywhere. On the walls there are pictures hung, they show us all proud! Are those made by tourists or for some rare and magnificent event. The mother returns with a hand in two small lemons and provides them with the shells, saying something. Gian is a translator explaining that said leading fortune. Not asking anything in return, either money or anything else. He says only if we can send the photos giving the address. I do not think I have ever been so touched in all my life and I promise to do so certainly. Meanwhile it is dark and is now returning to the hotel. Let the children and we are accompanied by Gian and Upal, who help us in our clumsy descent between mud and slippery grass. Had led at least one battery!

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Safari in Yala National Park

At first light of dawn we arrive at your destination. We do breakfast with hot tea, then Saman go to our guide, which comes with a beautiful, classical jeep safari: high, with a bench seat for the passenger side and open on 3 sides with the roof covered. We are perfectly comfortable sitting in six, with backpacks on the floor. There are also binoculars that will be useful. Walk down a long stretch of dirt road in the plains, admiring the landscape that is amazing. An appropriate pause in which we confirm that we are finally at the Yala National Park: a shed used as a museum of game shows and road map of the place. Climb on the jeep again and after another stretch of road finally come to the true entry that looks like a toll road. Arriva the batter, which for the safari in this park is required. It sits beside the driver and finally, at 8:00, we start the safari!
After a few meters immediately encounter two copies of the chimpanzee species Entella of Sri lanka ", easily recognizable by the illustrations of the Lonely Planet. The dirt road is in very good condition, we expected much worse. The meetings follow one after another, like the beautiful and breathtaking views of some parts of the landscape, that open suddenly on some curve. Frequently see several deer, wild boar, buffalo, deer Pomellato and unfortunately we soon realize that, as davamo assumed to be much fewer opportunities for photos with a powerful telephoto lens.
Our first goal, says the driver, is to find the elephants, because later, as the sun begins to warm, they withdraw within the forest and it is difficult to spot. The call of the leopards, but also, as we knew already, is not a good time to see them and find them we must stay several days in the park.
We find an open space in an iguana who digs a pit, and behind a male peacock, which opens to the tail wheel as a sign of courtship. Unfortunately not ever turn towards the front of us and the most beautiful part of the tail remains hidden. Later in large green fields with several small lakes are herons, pelicans then. Spotted eagle mangoose and even a goat, but elephants still nothing.
At about ten and a half we reach the boundary of the park facing the ocean. Jeep parked under the trees and down to make two steps in the beautiful long beach of sea bream. Eat our lunch packets while we admire the beautiful, unspoiled landscape. The enthusiasm of the safari was over and the bad drive past me now, I'm much better!
Return journey on the dirt trails of the park only to search for elephants. After passing a curve we pause to observe that the landscape is for me the most extraordinary seen so far: a huge swamp, surrounded by grass and flowers with hundreds of butterflies and a group of wild boars, with trees in the distance and spectral buckets and a particular rocky ridge. All this nestled in a perfect peace that only nature can create.
We begin to be seriously worried about not being able to see but our loved mammals, as the sun is high and is doing very warm. The driver at this point provides the best results and try to follow the tracks for a secondary path. So we leave the main road and take a path where the jeep can finally show his potential. Pass a rocky carpet, several deep holes and grazing the vegetation to graze in the most narrow. This is the safari as I have always imagined! Suddenly a scream coming Gianfranco: "There he is! Stop!". The driver stops the jeep and back. It 'really there for the elephant, hidden among the vegetation with tears the mighty trunk for his daily meal. E 'escaped the sight of all but Gianfranco was great! With the engine off, look for several minutes in perfect silence the animal. The driver says that there are others, at least three, then become five, but I only ever see one! It 'incredible but so big elephants can blend perfectly among the trees, I would not have ever said! Our sample visible in any case seems to have no way out: the only path open is what gives the street and then I am convinced that sooner or later will come to light. Instead, I remain open-mouthed when I see it disappear from the vegetation, making way eradicating all that is around without difficulty! Certainly that is wild to see something else, I was accustomed to docile trained elephants in Thailand. After a few minutes to get out here a couple a few meters away. A perfectly hides behind a tree to eat: I would not be able to recognize it if you have not seen the entry there! Then finally comes out into the open the whole flock. He guides a mother who protects a beautiful puppy, then others will come back. Follow the dirt road, are right in front of us a few meters, is very great emotion! In deep silence you hear all of our movements and clicks of cameras. At some point, right on the most beautiful elephants while we pass in hand, suddenly feel the motor rewind the film is that Saman had finished the picture! It makes a deadly uproar and immediately try to cover it. Fortunately the elephants is not worried.
After the last copy before us, the driver turns on the jeep to stay behind the pack and after a few tens of meters flows again between the vegetation. We disturbed and not just arrive at the point where they are gone, expect to find the enormous head of the ultimate parent check that the dense green with a mighty and terrifying nitrate! It freezes shockingly, the driver shut off the Jeep and commands us to keep quiet. There was no need to say, we are petrified to say the least, including cameras and various cameras. The elephant is in front of me, Gianfranco and Stefania, a couple of meters as the crow flies, from the side of the jeep where we are seated. We see it very well, is huge, has a provocative look and decided: I believe that they have never been so scared and at the same time with respect to any animal before. After a few seconds, turns his eyes and resumed indifferent to eat, but for us it was a great lesson. We are all convinced that if someone had shouted it was loaded and reversed without too many compliments, and us poor poor jeep! The driver explained to us that they are all females and become aggressive when their young to protect. Moreover, it is understood. What we see is the parent who is always last to control the situation around.
During the way back, we are witnessing the last days of the exceptional event: an eagle glides right in front of us and plunges headlong on the road a few meters ahead, capturing a snake and took over a tree. All this takes just a few seconds but is really one of those scenes that I thought you only saw in the documentary!

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Mulkirigala temple's tour. Final fireworks show at swimming pool.

Sediamo su una sedia mentre Upal ci porta un pacco di cartoline che gli abbiamo richiesto, e cominciamo a sceglierle. Dopo una ventina di minuti finalmente le trattative si concludono e raggiungiamo il numero di ben 35! Prima di rientrare lasciamo loro una mancia come ringraziamento per la compagnia, la guida e la simpatia che ci hanno regalato in questi giorni. Una volta in stanza decido di dare anche il mio cappellino a Gian (che l'aveva gentilmente chiesto come ricordo) e il mio vecchio portafoglio in pelle a Upal. Ne rimangono molto contenti e lo considerano un gesto affettivo da tenere come ricordo. Ammetto che siano stati un po' ossessivi durante questa settimana ma fanno molta tenerezza, sono dei bravi ragazzi.
E' una bella giornata di sole ed essendo ancora presto sentiamo forte il richiamo della piscina dove ci lanciamo per un breve refrigerante bagno.
Subito dopo pranzo incontriamo i bambini per lasciargli i nostri regali. C'è anche Mauro che sta dando loro dei vestitini. Noi abbiamo la stoffa da distribuire e lo zaino fornitoci dal tour operator Azemar a Milano, che abbiamo deciso di dare a loro che ne hanno sicuramente più bisogno di noi. Alle tre bambine spetta la stoffa, mentre lo zaino lo regaliamo ad un'altra bambina piccola che ci osserva da lontano, timida timida, abbracciata al padre. Una scena tenerissima e quasi commovente, così come l'ultimo saluto ai nostri cari, simpatici e allegri bambini singalesi.
Alle 15:00 in punto siamo alla reception per attender il pulmino che ci condurrà a Mulkirigala, alle pendici di una roccaforte dove è stato costruito un tempio nella roccia. Il tragitto non dura molto e una volta arrivati ci troviamo in mezzo al verde di una splendida foresta. Scorgiamo lo spuntone di roccia che è la nostra meta da scalare con oltre 500 gradini! Già dai primi passi il paesaggio si fa molto suggestivo e il panorama passa da una visuale di pochi metri tra la fitta vegetazione lussureggiante a scorci all'aperto, sempre più ampi man mano che saliamo verso l'alto.
Ad un primo terrazzamento visitiamo una sala letteralmente scolpita nella roccia. Lo sono anche le statue all'interno ci dicono, successivamente pitturate e oggi vivacemente colorate come in ogni tempio buddista. Un anziano signore si avvicina un po' a tutti chiedendo se conosciamo l'inglese. Tutti rispondono prontamente e furbescamente in modo negativo, mentre il nostro leggero tentennamento ci porterà ad avere questa persona attaccata come una patella durante il resto del percorso. Inizialmente è tranquillo, tenta di spiegarci qualcosa su storia e tradizioni del tempio, ma noi abbiamo già la guida del Dickwella. Ci fa comodo solamente perché rimaniamo staccati dal gruppo per godere in tranquillità del paesaggio e per scattare foto e riprendere a volontà.
Dopo altri gradini arriviamo ad un'altra terrazza con un ottimo panorama, dove si vede persino il nostro pulmino in fondo piccolo piccolo. Visitiamo altre due sale nella roccia, e proseguiamo per l'ultimo tratto che risulta un po' più complicato. I gradini sono anch'essi scavati nella roccia, piccoli e poco profondi, ma ci sono delle corde a cui tenersi e aiutarsi. Salta fuori il primo macaco con berretto, che osserva incuriosito la nostra ascesa. Poi, una volta sopra, ne arrivano a decine a prendere le caramelle. Corrono e saltano da una parte all'altra ma rimangono comunque diffidenti dall'avvicinarsi troppo o nel giocare con noi. Agguantano la caramella e scappano sul ramo più vicino.
Infine ancora una breve camminata conduce alla vera e propria cima della montagna, un balcone con uno strapiombo di oltre 200 metri sulla foresta! Una bella emozione, animata da un altro macaco solitario che ci segue sugli alberi e posa lì, quasi sospeso nel vuoto, a godersi lo strepitoso panorama. Sembra uno di quei posti che nella sua posizione ed isolamento pare adatto tipicamente a eremiti e monaci lontani dal mondo e dall'umanità. Purtroppo, nel vedere un signore che chiede l'elemosina attrezzato con tanto di banco, sedia e cartelli in nome del bene del tempio, mi fa sospettare che anche qui l'odore dei soldi ha rovinato l'atmosfera pura e religiosa del luogo.
Sospetto che viene confermato durante la discesa, quando il signore improvvisatosi nostra guida in inglese, comincia a parlarmi della sua numerosa famiglia da sfamare, di lasciare un aiuto per loro e le solite cose di cui ormai, dopo una settimana, cominciamo ad essere stanchi di sentire.
Il percorso del rientro prevede una sorta di giro ad anello e quindi risulta per un bel tratto diverso da quello dell'andata. Ci sono addirittura più scalini, che in tutto, sommati, sembrano essere circa 530: non male come esercizio per le gambe!
Verso le 22:00 scendiamo in zona piscina, dove ci hanno preparato delle sedie per assistere allo spettacolo. Ci hanno incuriosito molto affermando che sia stupendo. L'atmosfera è grandiosa: è calata la pace assoluta, l'acqua della piscina è immobile e funge da perfetto specchio per le luci e la temperatura è piacevole. Parte la musica e la solita presentazione di Gianfranco, che spiega la storia della rappresentazione che vedremo stanotte. E' un classico del genere: un principe ed una principessa si innamorano e vivono felici e contenti fin quando i "cattivi" non vengono a uccidere il principe e imprigionano la sua amata. Ma un angelo salverà il principe, che affronterà in duello il cattivo numero uno e libererà la sua principessa. Ebbene, nonostante il tutto possa sembrare banale e scontato, lo spettacolo non lo è affatto: tutt'altro, risulta più che mai spettacolare ed eccezionale! La musica accompagna sempre in modo appropriato il crescere della storia, ma il punto forte dello show risultano la bravura degli attori (gli animatori del Dickwella) unita agli "effetti speciali" dei fuochi e delle luci riflesse sulla piscina. Quando i protagonisti passano con la loro torcia ad accendere altri punti di fuoco e luce sparsi nel grande palcoscenico naturale della piscina, si comincia ad avvertire la magia di questo spettacolo. E quando arrivano i cattivi, dal tetto del Dickwella, volteggiando con le torce infiammate e scendendo dalle altissime palme, è un tripudio. Qualcuno, me compreso, ha sicuramente spagheggiato nel veder saltare dal tetto da un altezza di diversi metri quel ragazzo dritto in piscina, nel punto più basso della stessa, senza alcuna protezione! Per non parlare dello scontro, assolutamente memorabile ed indimenticabile, dei cattivi contro il principe, armati di spade infuocate che nulla hanno da invidiare alle spade laser di Star Wars, con la differenza che questo però è fuoco vero! L'agilità, la prontezza di riflessi e le capacità di questi ragazzi sono davvero incredibili. Chiamarli animatori mi pare del tutto riduttivo, hanno le potenzialità per fare ben altro.

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Dickwella - Colombo

Do not say that there is a beautiful levataccia at 3:30 in the morning even when you're on vacation! Permanently close the bags and go to the reception along with the rest of the group. This time, instead of a single bus as to same, we are divided into three buses that come to four. We are given the bassoon with breakfast and take place, seeking a comfortable position in the hope of making a nap during the long hours that separate us from Columbus. Hope that is soon thwarted dall'assurda leadership of our driver, who despite initially not very busy road (it is still dark, it is not even checked the dawn!) Does not spare his gait between sports abrupt accelerated, braking and overtaking continue on a road with one lane per direction and not in excellent condition. Together with us there are Luca, Marzia, Mauro. Gianfranco front with the driver, is the only one who can take a sensationally sleep despite see hang his head sharply on one side to another. I understand that he has become accustomed to the fury of making this trip every week to go and bring back tourists to the airport and take the new arrivals from Milan.
The journey then turns into a kind of nightmare, and after a few hours results in a sarcastic joke, those who become legends to tell his friends. Meanwhile, at 9:30, exhausted, we arrive at the shop where we stopped on the first day to take a look at the prices. I take this opportunity to hear the comments of the other elements of the group, identical to our guide pessima without any justification and nausea at will! We buy our latest postcards and stamps, and we sit outside while waiting to write the others. Who knows why, I believe that is still not just the airport, having already entered for some 'in town. I will make soon realized that it takes more than three hours!
Bottled three hours in the middle of the traffic in Colombo, a town that looks ten times more extensive than in Bangkok and never to end, in a way that I would describe in great detail. Getting Started "bottled" is not still in the queue as we usually in large cities. It almost always walk but slow, and between abrupt braking, cues from formula one and overtaking controlled by continuous invasions lane (the road is wide, there are three or four lanes in the direction of travel). All behave the same way and that is the equivalent of total anarchy! It is impossible to pass the car in front and gain two meters (just seen the car all the traffic!) And there is no reason, because after a few seconds it was again passed in turn. The first five times we saw cars but especially bus or truck much larger cut of the bus lane and throw him spericolatamente to us, we really feared for our safety. Then, go over the top ten, we understood that the tension began to develop into sarcasm and it was useless impanicarsi. Moreover, Gianfranco there in front is so quiet! I do not know how incredible miracle (which is not called Xamamina) I have heard no evil: I have never happened to me that I suffer each half on the ground, overcome such a thing. I thought Naples was a slaughterhouse: ridiculous. Even in Thailand I was a mess: trifles. Compared to Sri lanka are all drivers-model.
But talk to the driver's precisely because he is the masterpiece, the hero number one! Apart from how nicely customized to change gears, especially the second, which comes with a blatant gesture and funny, the icing on the cake is the obsessive and disproportionate use of the horn. Continuous use, assillante that after hours of journey provokes my laughter and Mauro, who begin to exchange terrible jokes. But because it sounds? How many hands have the driver? Is always changing speeds and always playing the horn, and most obviously in the driving wheel. And do not even have an accident it is clear that observed in real time all the mirrors to avoid leaving the side with the other lunatics out there. Conclusion: It is great! Not explained otherwise, are driving this six hours, without a moment's breath is a robot built to drive!
Continue for hours at irony about horn until, at noon, we arrive at Colombo destroyed after seven and a half hours of travel. The other members of the group are no less, and it seems instinctive to do a little heartfelt prayer of thanksgiving for having arrived safely and intact. Traumatic experience and that will leave the sign! But as it is true that in a world of the crazy deranged person who is hindsight, I realize, thinking that probably the risk of accidents is lower than it seems. Moreover, driving are all so accustomed to having ten times more reflections of our ready, and expect that someone is wearing to another at any time. But to tell vattelo while living in this first person experience for seven hours!

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