Going to Samarkand 2005 - Part 5

After visiting all over Europe in long and wide, last winter we join a group to go to Libya, we were very happy and delighted in this country with its deserts, salt lakes, towns and villages, we already visited Morocco in Africa, but the Libyans with their kindness and hospitality we have conquered.
This preamble to explain our thirst for adventure beyond the borders of Europe, in countries as yet untouched by mass tourism.
Through the Internet I started looking for other campers on a trip to these countries unknown, among the first I found a group that went to Iran in the spring, after the first contacts we have ruled it was too close to the previous trip to Libya and plus it was very expensive as an agency-organized by the newspaper industry camper, then through the Caravan Club Trajan in Benevento I heard of a group that last year after visiting Iran, would like to extend the trip to Samarkand in Uxbekistan, contacted the group leader, I announced the itinerary of the maximum cost to the organization, including visas, guides for various countries, the parking lots at the various hotels in electrical connection and supply of electricity ( Iran and Turkmenistan Uxbekistan), estimated at € 1850.00 per crew, he decides to meet in Porto Recanati by the campsite Bellamare June 2, meanwhile sending a confirmation with 50% of the total.
MEETING: camping Bellamare is very nice and welcoming, we arrived the previous day, the crew of Aosta came before us and make friends right away. On departure a welcome surprise, a stay at the camp has been offered by the crew of Osimo.
CREWS: We are 12 campers from 9 different regions, the average age is 64 years old, the oldest crew is already known: both have 76 years, Piedmont has two crews who were with us in Libya, the last crew was added although over a predetermined number (10 +1), as are doctors, very useful for the group.
Logistical problem: The group leader lists the various problems: logistics, border, water supplies and fuel.
DOCUMENTS: lists the various documents required to obtain visas: passports, passport-size photo 8 (women will do 3 pictures with the headscarf) compilation of various forms and a photocopy of the vehicle registration with the full list accessories (radio-stereo-CB-PC), brand and number of tire sizes, number of the engine. Everything is quite complicated because not all embassies in Italy: for Iran to Rome for the Turmenistan for Uxbekistan in Paris and Vienna.
Carnets de passage en DUANNE: Each crew will have to request a bank guarantee for the double or triple the market value at the age of the second half and through the ACI be releasing the document that will serve to pass the Iranian border, my half has been evaluated in an amicable manner, € 10.000,00, half the figure has doubled since 6 years, the acute and I paid € 180.00 to the bank (Friuladria) € 60.00 to € 359.01 for spending longer fixes the guarantee of one year (interest all1.80%), presenting the documents to the return duly signed by the various customs incoming and outgoing will be returned to me the months not used.
LICENSE: In these countries, an international driving license is required, for having an agency I paid € 50.00.
SPARE PARTS: The group leader advises us to equip various parts, filters, various belts, oil filling, as well as wheel-mounted spare, inner tubes and a gas can in addition, I have also in possession of a motor ZIP revision (€ 120.00)
MEDICINES: The two doctors are sending us a list of medications that we can be helpful, they endeavor to procure drugs for extreme cases that will be available to all.
CLOTHING: Women in addition to foul in the lead, must wear long dresses with long sleeves and wide, to cover the forms, Tina, my wife has procured two Moroccan clothes at a shop in Udine, men can not wear shorts courts, the head group advised to wear long-sleeved shirts, I saw that on TV instead wear shirts and polo shirts with short sleeves. All this only for Iran, the other two countries, we dress as we want.
Maps and guides: through the internet I found the Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com)
Guide to Iran € 23.50
Guide to 'Central Asia to € 28.00
and maps of Freytag & Berndt (www.freytagberndt.com)
- Central Asia Scale 1:1 750 000 to € 9.80
- Iran and neighboring countries scale 1:2 000 000 to € 9.80
bought everything in a library of Udine.
FERRY: Company VENTOURIS Line, all campers will be accepted as 5 to 7 mt. (Some, including mine, are over 7 mt.) for € 156 (Bari-Igoumenitsa-trip) Boarding September 4 at 20.00. Be paid immediately to the company by 30% for booking. The group leader takes charge of a single payment, pay that amount with the balance of the share trip in July.
CATS: Cats are our problem, we have two, have always been with us on all trips, are now old men: Sketch has 14 years and 18 princess, we do not feel for him to do a similar trip, we plan to put in a boarding house in a neighboring country, we will cost about € 800.00, but you can not help it, plus we are warned that they could refuse border animals without reason, and this convinces us completely.
MEETING: The starting point is Benevento, for various reasons we can not be there, we will embark in Bari
Tell us that two teams, for different reasons, forego the trip, I am sorry for them, but in this long journey is better to be in a limited number

 

178/6561 – Khiva – Aranci Hotel

Continued from "going to Samarkand, 2005" Part Four

Arriving in town with a wonderful view of the walls and palaces.
Refurbishment of campers in front of the hotel with water supply and electricity connection, very unstable, we had to replace the power supply was a single mass.
After the system we had dinner in caravans, some of us at the restaurant. Then a tour of the town with illuminated monuments, is really a fabulous city

0/0 – Khiva – Aranci Hotel

Meeting at 9:30 this morning for a tour of the city accompanied by a guide who speaks English only, unfortunately, our guide the LP has served us well, in addition to the various monuments and minarets visit the bazaar, as usual colorful and folkloric, purchase bread, mineral water and vodka.
Dinner at the restaurant: the usual raw and cooked vegetables, soup, spicy, sweet wine and vodka and a poor ballet, the dancer has his teeth covered with gold, they say it's a habit left by the Russians ... ... .... What taste!!

498/7059 – Bukhara – Semurg Hotel

Depart 7am on the road pretty good at first, then after the iron bridge over the river begins on the red sands of the desert "Kyzilkum" as the other is very flat with small shrubs, the road is unpaved and even ugly very boring in the end of the pieces from sliding km. 70/80 hours.
The hotel was new, is situated on the outskirts of the city, the parking lot from the street, few were able to sleep tonight ... ... .... Depends on traffic.
Tonight the big table with spaghetti joint, made from No. 1, 9, and my wife plus other delicious things brought by all.

0/0 – Bukhara – Semurg Hotel

At 8:30 am we pick a coach and a guide who speaks Italian, Nutih not remember how to spell it, let's start the tour of this beautiful city, we visit the mausoleums, the mother and a bazaar where you make a bit of shopping, before returning for lunch, until we come to retrieve the bus, sit in a bar a bellowing green tea, good and refreshing, unfortunately, the No. 5 was stung by a wasp, probably allergic to insect bites, has an anaphylactic shock and passes out, we're all very worried for a while 'we were apprehensive, but soon after he recovered, the doctor made him drink a lot of water, the more relieved we got back to the parking lot.
After lunch, while waiting the start for the new afternoon excursion, I went to a hotel room, we reserve to empty the gray water to the outlet of my inattentiveness portapotti me out of the toilet and flooded the floor, panic initially, then with good will and two rolls of toilet paper I cleaned everything.

At 15, you depart for the city, visiting the main square in Bukhara: A view from the Arabian Nights, breathtaking palaces and a minaret that we repay the effort of all km. ground in recent days. Needless to say, any store, especially women, you buy everything from carpets, silks, knives and various trinkets, my wife has been less and has purchased a cut of silk and cashmere shawl

0/0 – Bukhara – Semurg Hotel

Continue the visit to the city, disappointing because we saw the buildings of lesser importance later when we saw yesterday, the route of today could be avoided.
At lunch it was thought to offer a spaghetti Nutih to the very good guide in Italian, I made the sauce and 5 pound of pasta, No. 10 another 5 ounces in all, we were in 6 crews.
The No. 9 Close the door was closed too safe, the keys were in the camper and you could not enter, the first thing we tried to force the locks, then it was thought to pass through the window above the roof, No. 7 for slender physique climbing on the shoulders of two people managed to climb up, remove the piece, move in and open from the inside, resolving the situation.
This evening dinner ($ 10 + $ 7 per person for 1 bottle of wine) in a former madrassa with traditional dances and fashion show worn by beautiful fashion models.

286/7345 - Samarcanda – President Hotel

Departure at 8:30, transfer to Samarkand on a busy street and very undulating, with holes that put sudden stress of suspensions, I did right before leaving reinforce the rear leaf springs with the bellows was spending well made. You could make a short way but it is strongly recommended by our guide, as it passes near the Afghan border and is very militarized with several checkpoints and is very dangerous.
The problem of the day was the supply of diesel, gasoline if they find what they want but the oil is difficult, after 4 distributors who did not, find one that has only 200 lt.: 20 a head at the exorbitant price (for this area) to $ 6, after 3 I find something else that always gives us 20 liters each for $ 7.50.
Arriving at the Samarkand group photo in front of road sign indicating the city our ultimate goal, with Prosecco and uncork tasting cakes Siena, applause at No. 1 that, despite its faults, is always on her if we were able to arrive in this country.
We park in the square opposite the President Hotel, immediately there is provided an electrical connection and a room for those who want to take a shower, tomorrow it will be seen for the water supply.

0/0 – Samarkand President Hotel

9.00 am departure to visit the city, the guide, we'll call Shokhista Gioia as its unpronounceable name, is fluent in Italian and is a beautiful girl of 23 who studied in Italy in Turin and Siena for 2 years, we accompanies walking all morning between mausoleums, madrasas and minarets, leads us to lunch at a local restaurant where we stopped in 4 couple to eat the other reach the campers, we have spent over 10 including the guide and the guide about 46,000 Sun $ 40, the three of us reach others with a bus that will take us in different places: other mausoleums, madrasas and a bazaar. Today we visited several places many other beautiful and a bit 'less interesting but everyone, including a graveyard, you enter from the recent exit of the old town with small mausoleums now restored, the guide was very good at explain the history and anecdotes of this beautiful country.
Day off tomorrow, the women already know where to spend money !!!!!

Shahrisabz – President Hotel

With a van at a cost of $ 100, with two crews visit the town of Shahrisabz, birthplace of Tamerlane, interesting his impressive mausoleum, we notice many married couples with the retinue of relatives and friends who are photographed at the various monuments , the guide explains that being near the period of Ramadan all anticipate the wedding date, otherwise it would postpone the end of the period.
To go in this city you can do two streets a mountain 50km long, the other plain of 280 km. Unfortunately, the most beautiful, the mountain is impractical with normal cars, but only 4x4, so we need to do the longer, however it is worth it.
This evening dinner at a restaurant recommended by Gioia, Marco Polo in Registan str. At a cost of $ 6 per person, we ate well.

302/7647 – Bukhara – Semurg Hotel

It begins the return trip, retracing the path of such development, with the same holes and depressions, but first we stop with the camper in front of mausoleums and madrassas more important for a last photo with our means in the foreground.
First issue of the day is the supply of oil, after several distributors exists, we find the black market: people who have tanks in the boots of cars plus the cheat pour the contents in the tanks, they pretend to pay and after a few liters showing the still nearly full tank in the car pretending to have been emptied and there we realized almost immediately and after a little discussion filled the two who were cheating and then they said they had finished diesel. Later we found others with the same system, but, mindful of previous emptied their tanks and then into our into our tanks, to be sure of the quantity, lt. 40 I've paid $ 22.
Again the guide was to find a refueling point yesterday as safe as promised, has not done so to make us lose two hours of fuel for research
Having to make tomorrow a long way with the unknown Supply, a distributor of Bukhara we filled the tank as well, even the cans and even here there was another scam, the fuel was delivered by a pump with the count-liter stealing, lt. 80 (fake) I've paid $ 22.
Stop at a bazaar for supply of food varied, then returned to the same hotel for the night of the progress, the Semurg Hotel, where I had suffered water.

388/8035 – Mary – on the road

The border is 100 km. For the customs paperwork takes a long time, pays the tax on motor homes in the $ 99, these countries supported by the bureaucracy inherited from the communist regime was to be expected that practice, lunch immediately after the border,

Continue on "going to Samarkand, 2005" Part Six