The Silk Way: Kizil-Kum Desert. Travel in Uzbekistan

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Marco Polo described in Milione those distant civilization, discovering and revealing for the first time to Europe. Until then the West had limited the history of the world by ignoring these cultures, different but no less civilized. Disappear, thus, the conviction of those who thought that he had written the history of their little world with the conviction to write the history of the world.
From a historical "Silk Road" was a way of cultural exchange rather than commercial. The term was coined at the end of the nineteenth century by the geographer F. von Richthofen, who, under the name "Silk Road", intended to determine the amount of routes that connected China to the West. Silk because it was the valuable and expensive fabric to allow the trade, but above all cultural, scientific and medicinal products, began to flourish.
In the past, the "Silk Road" was covered as well as for commercial reasons by adventurous explorers, today, it is only for tourism: the commercial aspect would be no more absurd, but there's less desire to adventure of a time, indeed .... The travel evolves, so evolves, because the unknown that still exists, and always will exist, unlike what happened in antiquity is not always a threat and increasingly as an opportunity.

Our journey begins at the border of Shavat where we expect to Shuhrat, our guide Uzbek. Climb on the vehicle properly rented a Volkswagen Transpotter, and after seventy kilometers we Khiva.

Kizil Kum-DESERT
The next day there it is "crossing" of the Kizil-Kum Desert. At one time the word was very appropriate. The caravans used to pass it for several days journey by following the guiding star of night, the sun by day and the compass with the bad weather. Today, however, thanks to the good condition of the A380 road, which links to Bukhara Khiva, there s'impiega no more than seven hours to cross the nearly 500 km of asphalt s'incuneano that straight in the desert. During the trip we will stop three times. The first, immediately after Urgench, to consume a fleeting lunch grilled fish, caught in the waters dell'Amu-Darya, the river now known about the disaster of the Aral Lake. A second time when we meet a herd of sheep grazing in the middle of the road. The last in a block of the police. Here they discover dishonest officials and so we have to try the notorious corruption of that Uzbek police. To continue we are forced to leave a bribe of 200 sum.
During the long journey Shuhrat tells their wedding ceremony. How did we, in Uzbekistan, there are still families to choose spouses for their children. The dowry consists of a camel, two sheep, a sack of potatoes, a meal and a sugar. Which leads to knowledge of the customs of the Uzbek weddings, or rather the Fergana Valley, which comes Shuhrat being born in Margilan. Our curiosity leads us to make more speeches like the one committed on the Status of Women and the political situation. Women are prevented to do certain things work and in public their ideas are recognized, in part, and only within the framework family. Easy to guess that the women of the Fergana Valley are socially backward! Shuhrat says almost proudly complete subjugation of his wife. The adultery, for example, is still punished, rightly, according Shuhrat by stoning. The Fergana, I think, fortunately, is something anachronistic compared to the rest of Uzbekistan.
In the delicate political issue Shuhrat says to hate the Uzbek government that crushes the Fergana Valley. The government can ensure the control only by force. He speaks of human rights abuses and lack of democracy. Enhances the Fergana Valley, the epicenter of Muslim fundamentalism, the one and only threat to the power of President Karimov. The speeches of Shuhrat send me anxiety and make me come back to mind the tragedy of the school in Beslan, as the command, consisting of thirty men, included not only Chechens also Uzbeks.

FIELD IN THE DESERT KIZIL-Kum
Bukhara leave, but instead of pointing directly to Samarkand, a Nurata, we head north towards the lake Aidarkul, near which have mounted the scope of yurts that we host.
In this place one day to abandon civilization. Found it was not easy. The yurts, circular tents consist of a wooden frame and covered with felt, have always been the refuge of the nomads of Kizil-Kum. Once they were both in winter as in summer, today only in the most beautiful season. The winter yurts are now rare in the Kizil-Kum Desert. The first column is usually in early spring.
The place is surprisingly green, rain, falling short at this time of year, has refined the landscape by covering the sandy ground by an unusual layer of grass. The phenomenon is visible only in March and April, because of the climate: drive in the winter and torrid summer. Here, life must not be easy in any year. The yurt is a unique setting, illuminated by a lamp oil, with the floor entirely covered with carpets and all. Stretch out our sleeping bags on mattresses lying on the floor above at least three layers of blankets. Not far from camels graze huge hairy with large humps that seem to burst. The camels are not used only for transportation, but to get milk, meat and skins. The camel is, as in any other desert, a real strength.
We go out to make a trip not so much for the tour itself as not to disappoint the insistence of the nomad that we host. The elderly man riding two of the camels which were grazing in the wild savages who clearly are not. Be able to properly kneel climb mount on the saddle consists of a rug from under the straps hanging pom pom. By pulling the reins, using a wooden nail stuck in your nose, you transmit the commands that you want to give the camel so that we can govern. On the desert wind blows cold. The trail always tirelessly traveled the same path that the rain of a few hours before it hardened. The camel slowly through the ice of sand and bushes. During the march moans and grinding their teeth, throwing urli rauch. Return to the field frozen.
The nomads are proud to be free men, were archaic values, but do not expect anything exotic ... now we are dressed like. After having eaten dinner and discussing drinking vodka, all together, before the fire. The dried branches of aryk raising huge flames burning, while a man plays with imposing an unexpected grace Dutari (two-stringed guitar). Some accompanying the music with strange movements mimic very expressive. The time is right to try the "Noz" finely chopped tobacco, sometimes mixed with spices and ash, but especially with the cut opium. The green mush under the tongue melts, so the active ingredients pass through the circulatory system.
Vodka, no noz me away from the pleasure of music and beautiful evening around the fire to dance and talk, until a faint flame illuminates the darkness of the desert.
During the night a heavy rain I wake up and feel, from the inside of the yurts in the distance, the barking of the camel. A strange feeling I axle, similar to that of being safe inside the house when a strong storm bursts summer.