From north to south Vietnam

After Cambodia and Laos, countries I visited in recent years, this was the time of Vietnam. I found a really "racing" country, very dynamic and invaded by mass tourism, although worthy of an accurate visit. This country, since ten years ago, is still living a period of renewal (called Doi Moi) in which, unfortunately, everything seems revolving around money... And the Vietnamese are desperately trying, in a thousand ways, to make even the most possible. Having had the opportunity to speak several hours with the locals I realized, hearing their stories, that the general corruption level is high. The government, which handles most of the hotels and equipped tourist facilities, corresponds the minimum wages to their employees, which are consequently able to ensure only the minimum needs. In Vietnam is common practice to do by yourself with various gimmicks.
I hadn't any problem moving from north to south with every mean of transport: airplane, bus, train. The most interesting region that I visited was certainly the north/north-eastern (Hanoi, Hailong Bay, Sapa), less chaotic and by some ways more romantic compared to the rest of the country. I found the northern and central area to be the most depressed, while the southern one is the heart of the economic recovery, with the focus in Saigon. At first impact Vietnamese (especially northern ones) seem closed and reserved, but it isn't true. Once passed the initial distrust they prove to be affable and curious people, with a luggage of stories to tell and willing to waste that pragmatic label that, sometimes unfairly, was given them. Among their words it can be immediately felt a strong attachment to family, home and unpleasantly a desperate desire to gain money at all costs.
The fastest and most convenient method to move around in the big cities is with mototaxies. Buying a ticket for both train or bus, it is always better to visit more than a single agency to get an idea of the best price. I suggest you not to buy tickets through the hotel where you stay, it could happen you to pay twice the normal price. Differently from flights that cost about the same everywhere. You must always be careful, after a payment, to the change they give you back! Several times happened to me that money back was wrong. Euros and U.S. dollars can be changed anywhere in the big cities. I always used U.S. dollars to pay hotels, flights, trains, buses and other trips while, to pay meals in small restaurants and revenues to the museums, I used the local currency. (1 Euro = 19,700 Dong)

Itinerary:

I arrived in Hanoi with a Malaysia Airlines flight from Rome, including a stopover in Kuala Lumpur. At the airport I took a taxi-bus for 2 US$ that took me in the old quarter where, at the cost of 10 US$, I found a room in a hotel near Hoan Kiem lake. The things to see are so much, so you'll be spoiled for choice. In my opinion, very interesting are: the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh, the Literature Temple, the Perfumes Pagoda, the chaotic streets of the old quarter, the water puppets performance (for 40000 dong - the old 4000 Italian Lire - you can place in the front row with a fan and a musicassette for free) and a walk around the lake between 19:00 and 21:00, when is filled with people who are jogging and doing some gym (a good occasion to socialize). For the trips around city I always used a mototaxi (15000 dong, about 1500 old Italian Lire, back and forth). On the evening of 10th October I took part to the celebration for the 50th anniversary of liberation from French domination. We enjoyed street theaters, dances and fireworks to end the evening. It's really curious to see such a large crowd with nose upwards and opened mouths while thunderous welcoming the outbreak of any fire, as if unbelievably witnessing something magical.
In a travel agency I bought a train ticket one way for the next day to Lao Cai, the station you must reach to go to Sapa (17 US$ per seat, in a soft berth).
Arrived in Lao Cai, I took a collective taxi to Sapa (a special taxi, payable at the railroad station) where I moved into a guesthouse (8 US$). Sapa is very nice, wedged between mountains in a beautiful natural scenery. Every day there's a local market where you can meet the Hmong and Dao minorities from the surrounding villages that, wearing their traditional coats, usually sell their finely embroidered fabrics. I rented a motorbike with driver for 10 US$ each day and went nearby to visit some of the many villages around (which I found partially unhinabitated because most of the mountaineers poured into the city to take part in the market). From Sapa, with 3 other people I hired a jeep with driver in order to arrive in Lai Chau (hours and hours of horrible road!). I stayed there for only one night (US$ 8) to continued later, heading to Dien Bien Phu, a city that I suggest to visit only to those who are passionate about modern history: infact, in addition to the famous battle museum, there's little more to see. Taking a bus, in about 18 hours, I arrived in Hanoi (at approximately 10000 dong of cost). Once arrived, I immediately booked a ticket for the next day, to get first to Hailong city and once there, crossing by boat her beautiful bay, to Cat Ba Island (totally 12 US$ for bus and boat). I had accommodation in an hotel from which it was possible to enjoy a magnificent sight of the bay, unforgettable especially at sunset (12 US$). In Hailong there are three beaches, easily accessible on foot, accessible at about 7000 dong of cost. The hike in the natural park is an about 5 hours long walk (12 US$, guide included). Really a continuous rise. It's better to use hiking boots and not to forget water to drink, because until the end of the path is truly impossible to find it. The bay is fantastic and it is possible to rent a boat for few dollars, visiting several fishing villages placed on the sea (I even had the good fortune to attend a floating marriage). In the evening is possible to eat fish at reasonable prices in one of the restaurants along the Cat Ba town promenade.
With a fast ship, then, I arrived at Haiphong (70000 dong - about 7000 pounds), where I took a bus to Hanoi. In Hue I arrived by train, with a journey of so much hours that I wouldn't repeat (700 kilometers from Hanoi, cost: 380000 dong).
Hotel accommodation for 10 US$. There I visited the Thien Mu Pagoda even if it has to go under restoration works (I arrived by boat on the Perfumes river at ***********usd 8), some of the imperial tombs (that of Tu Duc, in my opinion e'la piu 'bella) and bus (8 usd ) I visited the galleries of Vin Moc and the DMZ. In the heart of Hue is really interesting is the citadel is the large covered market, certainly worth a visit for a few hours.
From Hue to Hoi An in buses with a trip of a few hours (cost 2 usd) via Danang where the Cham Museum (20,000 D) with its collection of statues continues .....

 

A Hoi An ho trovato una camera per 10 usd in un albergo vicino al mercato che praticamente è al centro città. ( ci sono arrivato a piedi visto che l'autista dell'autobus ci ha voluto lasciare davanti ad un albergo dalla parte opposta....). Hoi An è piccola e affollata di turisti ,ma nonostante questo è assolutamente da non perdere. Girare a piedi o in bici è la cosa migliore.Tra templi, antiche abitazioni e pagode c'è solo l'imbarazzo della scelta. Per visitare i siti piu' interessanti è necessario acquistare un biglietto presso uno dei numerosi chioschi situati in vari punti della città ( 75.000 Dong ). La sera si può mangiare la specialità del posto, il Cao Lau . Molti ristornati organizzano corsi di cucina di una serata ( 7 usd e si mangia quello che si cucina ). Il giorno dopo ho visitato My Son, santuario della civiltà Cham risalente al IV secolo d.c ( con guida e autobus 2 usd ). Da Hoi An ho preso un taxi fino a Danang da dove ho preso il treno per Nha Trang. Non mi è piaciuta, troppo movimentata per i miei gusti. Lontanamente mi ricorda alcune rinomate località turistiche della Thailandia agli albori del boom turistico. Sosta di una notte e con il biglietto comprato sul posto ( 38 usd ) ho preso l'aereo per Ho-Chi-Minh city. Con un taxi preso all'aeroporto (6 usd) sono arrivato nella zona di Pham Ngu Lao dove mi sono sistemato in un hotel ( 12 usd ) . Il verde che si trova ad Hanoi qui lo si può scordare. Cemento, cemento, cemento e motorini che sfrecciano in tutte le direzioni. Il traffico è pazzesco, la città è caotica e molto inquinata. Saigon oggi è sede di piu' della metà degli investimenti stranieri in Vietnam, la città dove i grattacieli sorgono come funghi, dove eleganti manager in cravatta e ventiquattrore si mescolano ai mendicanti e ai senzatetto, dove alle 18 si può bere l'aperitivo e ascoltare musica a tutto volume in uno dei numerosi bar alla moda, mentre nello stesso momento a poca distanza si sentono suonare i gong dei templi buddisti. A differenza di Hanoi , qui bisogna tenere gli occhi aperti piu' del normale, soprattutto di sera. Purtroppo la povertà è tanta e la delinquenza comune è dilagante. Mi sono accordato con un mototaxista che per 5 usd mi ha accompagnato a visitare vari posti. Dipende da quanto tempo si ha a disposizione e in base a quello organizzarsi per un itinerario. Qui come ad Hanoi, le cose da vedere e fare sono tante. Oltre al mercato di Cholon, a vari templi e pagode e al museo di Ho Chi Minh ho visitato le gallerie di Cu Chi ( non mi hanno entusiasmato, molto meglio quelle di Vin Moc ) e il Tempio Caodaista di Tay Ninh ( dove ho assistito alla preghiera di mezzogiorno ). Costo della gita alle gallerie e al tempio caodaista 4 usd. Partendo in autobus per Mytho ( 10.000 Dong ) ho visitato anche il delta del Mekong dove, muovendomi sempre in autobus tra una città e l'altra, ho passato 5 giorni. ( Vale sicuramente la pena spendere qualche giorno in piu' per visitarlo in maniera approfondita ).





Dopo piu' di un mese di viaggio sono ritornato a Saigon e da li ho preso il volo che mi ha riportato in Italia.
Finisce qui il mio viaggio in Vietnam.
Nel caso qualcuno fosse interessato ad avere informazione oltre che sul Vietnam anche sul Laos, Cambogia, Thailandia , puo' tranquillamente contattarmi.

Angelo
Mail: taggl@iol.it

Alcune tariffe di voli di sola andata della Vietnam Airlines:
Danang - Nha Trang 38 usd
Danang - Saigon 55 usd
Danang - Bangkok 145 usd
Huè - Hanoi 55 usd
Huè - Saigon 55 usd
Huè - Nha Trang 40 usd
Hanoi - Danang 55 usd
Hanoi - Saigon 102 usd
Saigon - Phuquoc 55 usd
Nha Trang - Saigon 38 usd
Saigon - Bangkok 175 usd
Saigon - Vientiane 205 usd
Hanoi - Vientiane 105 usd
Saigon - Haiphong 102 usd
Hanoi - Bangkok 170 usd
Saigon - Phnom Phen 75 usd

Altri prezzi: 1 Euro = 19.700 Dong
Caffè 3000 D
Thè 3000 D
Bottiglia d'acqua 3000 D
Zuppa con uova e tagliolini 8000 D
Manzo alla griglia con riso 6000 D
Un pranzo completo ad Hanoi 45.000 D
Pesce alla griglia 30000 D
Birra 7000 D
Baguette farcita 3000 D
Giro in risciò 5000 D
Quotidiano in inglese 3000 D
Camicia in seta 10 Usd

Links utili:
http://www.centrostudivietnamiti.it/
http://www.Vietnam.com/
http://www.italia-Vietnam.it/
http://www.seat61.com/Vietnam.htm
http://www.vietnamonline.net/
http://www.livinginvietnam.com/
http://www.vietnamtourism.com/
http://www.embitalyvietnam.org/