From Northern to Southern Vietnam. Two different realities - December 2004

OUR JOURNEY BEGINS IN Vietnam FROM Hanoi AND CONTINUES TO Chau Doc (on the Mekong Delta) WHICH IN CAMBODIA enter VIA FIUME.
FROM NORTH TO SOUTH, THE MAJORITY OF THE STAGE WAS MADE BY TRAIN, ALSO WHY THE DAYS WERE NOT AVAILABLE TO MANY AND TRAVELING AT NIGHT, WE HAVE BEEN MAKING ALL THE DAYS AVAILABLE TO VISIT MANY beautiful.
THIS DIARY IS NOT A TREATY OF CULTURE AND TOURISM, IS THE JOURNEY DIARY OF OUR STAFF WITH MANY SMALL SPECIAL, adventure, misadventure, Curiosità, IMPRESSIONS.
ON THIS JOURNEY WE STARTED You FIRST FEW MONTH, WITH A DETAILED TRAINING WITH VARIOUS READINGS WITH THE JOY OF STARTING TANTA. THE STAGES ARE LISTED ALONGSIDE THE DATES .... WHY CHALLENGE ANYONE TO READ ALL!

THE FEELING THAT WE GAVE THE TWO WORDS IN Vietnam IS:
THE Vietnam FROM NORTH TO SOUTH, TWO DIFFERENT REALITIES!

"The chaotic Hanoi, with its messy traffic, the cyclo you chase, the vendors that emerge everywhere, messy stores with goods on display directly on the sidewalks and the beautiful Saigon, this city so modern, classic and elegant, with restaurants and local to the West. This city teeming with people so vivid, active, well dressed. People whose smiles emerges a culture multiforme, semi westernized. People who want to communicate .. What a difference between Saigon and Hanoi. For Hanoi will breathe much more air from the communist regime. In Saigon there is a latent capitalism, we see the reflection in the windows of the glittering shops of fashion, well-dressed people in modern supermarkets rich west and products charcuteries in the French style. There is also in the families who go to pre-celebrate Christmas with children in the first hotel of their cities, or groups of young Vietnamese we met at the disco-bar, 8. floor of the Majestic . And they will "suffer" in front of the shanty town on the Saigon River channel. "

 

Budapest - Istambul

14:10 hours we are on the taxi to the airport where we expect to 16:45 on ns. flight to Istanbul.
To be beautiful, fresh, rested and ready for the next 24 hours of travel (if OK !)... last night we slept in ns. apartment in Budapest. This morning Matthew and Charlotte were awakened by the sound of ns. furious dispute .... caused by the fact that "I" I forgot at home and the fleece jacket that Giampaolo was chosen for the trip. In the end, everything calms down and (as always) you arrange with what is there .... e. positive note (there's always a positive note in all things): starting lighter!

Istambul - Bangkok - Hanoi

After a wonderful trip with the Turkish airline, which offered a good service as well as an appreciable kitchen without so many spices and tastes strange (and fresh salads to the delight of my children this morning even spinach!), We arrived in Bangkok at 13 : 10 (our 07:00). Pleasant was also waiting at the International Istanbul that, I must say, it was revealed as a surprise to the Modernism, the elegant but at the same time cheerful (style terminal 3 of London) and many pubs, music, lights, glittering shops, etc. ..
Automatically landed in Bangkok we head towards the baggage (and there we made the first couple of miles on foot ...) but come close, we realize that we need to collect baggage passing passport control. But we are in transit and if we pass the passport control, we must return to spend 10 euros per person (taxes Thai) is also the agency in Bangkok from which I bought via the internet airline tickets to Hanoi (a 40% cost in less than the prices found in Europe) I was recommended not to leave ... Preoccupiamoci So before you pick up your tickets.
Appointment to the terminal "A" - International Departures - Post Office - ask Mr. Jack - who knows ...... where is it? Airport Bangkok is huge. Un'automobilina Skip electrical service opportunity ..... to seek information and CHE BELLO! They give us a pass. After a couple of miles back (this time thankfully motorized) we unload in front of a lift: the Post Office Piano di Sotto!
We come to the Post (the now almost 14:30 ).... Mr. Jack is not there ... is left. And our good. tickets? Also strange that a custom hand over the tickets at a post office, no? All now expect some problems. Only I am confident. Matthew laughs! After a couple of phone calls we used the hijacking to another post office ....... more km on foot with my lame leg (cause ruinous fall from the stairs 2 weeks before leaving ..).
Withdraw (to my great satisfaction) tickets to Hanoi and then we go to the offices of the Thai (who knows i ns. Luggage where they finished and what will be the practice to recover?).
The Offices of the Thai are exactly where we came from before (other traipsing down backwards). We do the Check-In and we ensure that your luggage think of everything. CHE BELLO!
The aircraft participated in 17:45 and the gate is the 33 ... guess where is it?? A couple of miles back ... almost where we were this morning! 15:30 we sit in a restaurant without infamy and without praise to drink and eat something while you leave. At 17:00 look at the perfect and long boarding luggage (hopefully there are also our) containers, etc.. the aircraft. Carlotta and I also do a nice photo of Boeing of Thai.
17:45 hours the aircraft is brought slowly towards the runway. The commander makes the usual greetings after which the engines to turn up but .... few seconds after all is silent and back. The captain apologized and warns us that the plane does not work that well and then do a change of aircraft! Luckily it has been noticed before take off. While transferring baggage, containers, etc.. from aircraft to serve us dinner!
At 19:40 we moved on the plane which also has small birds decorative paper (type Origan) hung from the ceiling .. BELLO ..
20:00 rolla is new to the track (hopefully this works well) ... but deaf hear noises from under the plane .... so that a passenger Thai call the hostess ... which after a long consultation seems to succeed him. Carlotta and I prefer to embrace the idea that the workers' intention to control the engine remained attached to the cart and is desperately knocking. Laughter. Even on this plane we serve a small meal.
Hour 21:40 (we are already over 24 hours!) Landed - un po 'abruptly - but in any case landed in Hanoi! No rain and this is already a good thing (the usual things). The passport control is fast enough (apart from the visa of Matthew that has some problems that we do not understand but the mystery is solved soon, only a mistake by the Embassy on the release date). Outside there is to expect the taxi sent from Camellia (included in price) with a sign bearing our name! The journey from the airport to the center of Hanoi is a long double-lane road with little traffic. We note some buildings on either side of the road very high (four five-story), but very close (maximum width of a room), a typical Vietnamese architecture, habit caused (apparently) from a kind of tax that is calculated on the basis of the meters' employment front soil road.
The Hotel is not bad but the parties are bleak in the sense that it lacks a nice place to sit, talk, drink ........ Also my reservation is not in the sense that the two deluxe rooms are not available (as at 20 usd the one with balcony), there were 2 double rooms (15 dollars) I protest, therefore I do see a deluxe available .. . Horror! Practically identical with the bathroom but much worse ... Since it is absurd to pay $ 5 more for a crap like we want the 2 double rooms so we save as well. A second and a third floor with steep stairs made specially for my knee invalid!
Arranged (or rather, spring!) Backpacks in their rooms we have a shower (in which the ns. Allaga bathroom is now) ... Then after two or three times up and down stairs to ask for towels, to warn of flooding, etc. .... Matthew and Carlotta sleeping and we go to clubs to look for a drink ... and also to see something ... is more than 26 hours that we are around and we saw only airports! The impact is strange but nice. We are in the old city of Hanoi and ns. road - not lighted - is full of BARETTINI ... more for tourists than for local ... seats with 20 cm tall and proportionate tavolinetti (rasoterra)! For tonight is over ... then choose a Barettini Touring ... Nice and even managed a nice boy (ns become. Barettini evening for the entire stay in Hanoi). Here impact with a problem that we had already noticed the taxi from the airport. Nobody speaks English ......... or at least not at the level of conversation. Towards midnight and ten owners will enliven ... Leave it at a check ... the other closes the sluice ... We think we want to send via ...
Then explain to us instead ... the police check the times of closure and ... (this thing we did really hard to understand) if Sgarro .. punishment as the kidnap of the chairs ... yesterday evening that would have seized two .. ! Strange kind of fines ...

Hanoi

After a sound night's sleep! (5 hours ..) 7:30 breakfast ... Excellent buffet! Repays the flooding of the bathroom. I eat the noodles! Let the kids relax and destroyed Giampaolo and I will do a tour ... Let's go to the first found on the Internet (see the event is just around the corner) where we need to confirm and pay (sob. .. sob ....) tour on the Mekong - the only tour for which we have supported a ' agency to be for reasons of time or because they cost much less! "But the agency is still closed ... opens at 9:30 ...
Then we go to Central station to book berths on the train tomorrow evening to Lao Cai. We find the station and the door right ... just that - small detail - I have not changed nor taken, nor the money yet ... therefore BEHIND FRONT! You are returned to the hotel ... We wake the pargoletti forming an abundant breakfast then went to family fun walk, first to seek an ATM (essential), then the agency of "Mekong" where I take the opportunity to book a car with driver for tomorrow (30 usd). Then a taxi back to the station to make the tickets (4 persons in the taxi is the most economic as well as no surprise ...).
Station in opportunity to ask how to book berths for Hué we should take between 5 / 6 days (but not from Hanoi to Ninh Binh ...). After a queue at the counter than ten minutes start to use it all before .. I was angry but m'ignorano (carini. .. very galanti!) arrives Giampaolo (which was out of a baguette to eat with the children) and I said "Are you still there?". To explain ... intervenes and falsely ... BELLO! High regard for the feminine gender and to think that here in Vietnam seems to work only women should have a high sense of respect for them!. However for booking us announce that it is impossible ... You can only book by the various stations of departure. In fact, even for Lao Cai we have only sold one way tickets. But how do you run the risk of not finding a spot if you arrive Nihn Binh few hours before the departure of the train ??... It goes well .. agency going in the afternoon.
11:30 am (late fearful about the program) we look at the Temple of Literature. The garden is very relaxing. In the third place photo ... the meter stops working (strange, we changed the battery this morning !)... Then we go to lunch at the restaurant "Bar Koto." It is a restaurant run by a non-governmental organization which works to remove the children from the street, teach a craft, and even then find a good job (there's even a picture of a boy in front of the restaurant of the Sofitel Hotel). WELL DONE. And here at least speak English, are polite and give a lot to do.
Giampaolo orders suffered a dish based MUOC MNON (one acre to the perfume sauce, made with fermented fish, on which we Europeans makes a horrible !)... so we will know soon! After lunch we take two cyclo (one for me and one for Charlotte and Giampaolo and Matthew). We do a little tour through the center and still we are leaving on Hoan Kiem lake, pond located in the heart of Hanoi, from where we start the journey of the center on foot. The camera begins to do as strangely! Virtually every now hangs ....
We see the Museum of Chinese House (an old house completely restored Chinese merchants) and many other things ... Among these an interesting local market where all fruits vegetables, duck, spices, dried fish ..., where you kill the chickens even before their eyes, throw into boiling water and then prepared for sale. .. In conclusion we pass to the Way of SHOES (the old city of Hanoi has 36 routes each of which specializes in one type of craft).
In the way of shoes we spend half an hour in the choice of shoes can capture ... Nike Puma Adidas ... In the end does not buy anything to go back again tomorrow ...
Now we travel because we still have to go by train and then at 18:30 we go to the theater of Water Puppets for which we have already ordered tickets at the hotel this morning.
Train tickets in agency ... cheat (cost 50% more!)
At the water puppet theater (which I thought was done on the lake, is in a real theater is that instead of the stage there is a large tub with water) almost there almost asleep and yawn much (time zone?). We are sorry to think that because the show is not pleasant is very beautiful and deserves to be seen! There is also live music with typical instruments of very special one seems a harp, but with a single rope!
For dinner we decided to go to Soho restaurant (one of the best seafood restaurants in the capital that does not disappoint the expectations!) We have the unfortunate idea to take the cyclo for a dollar each .... Arrived at the restaurant our pay. two U.S. dollars, they are asking us if they expect them and we say no thanks ... not even know what we ...
After a hearty dinner with bottle of wine, go out and find out the two first-cyclo ...
Do we bring in a hotel. When we reach the other $ 2 .... As to the problem out ... it takes twice because people say that there have been waiting ... (but who did you say?) and then that was more distant (distance perfectly identical). Then one of the 2 starts to scream hurl our ground. $ 2 ..... then collects and follows us up inside the hotel (another strange thing ... you always leave some twenty meters before any destination ...)
In the hotel outbreak lite ... this guy (in my former Vietcong guerrilla) screams, SBRA says bad words (at least so we suppose). We are now in the iron not to love nothing more (it has become a matter of principle). At some point this guy take over a huge ceramic vase and threatened to run him to Giampaolo. I ask the Hotel to call the police ... but those they are there inert ... In the end it ends when I pull the phone from the pouch and I declare that I call the police. The crazy disappears immediately and at that point, those of us comfort and give us full reason ... Boh?
After all this pandemonium Matthew and Charlotte are in the room and we are going to ns. Barettini a bercé a vodka to conclude the evening, hoping that animated the "Vietcong guerrilla" first issues there in the street! Tonight we try to converse with the ns. friend of the bar but it is complicated ... for example, to see if there are coins (and not only banknotes paper) will launch a series of drawings that reproduce the notes and then paint the circles with the question mark at the side .. Do not understand ... Let us see ns. local currencies such comparison, but ... Nothing!
Finally a local patrons illumination, capisce! E. .. also gives us the first two coins! The value, in fact, it's ridiculous and perhaps why not use them.
When we arrive at the hotel are the children in our room. You are frightened and decided to sleep with us ...
Indeed, the two single beds in the rooms are practical beds to a large square and a half and then we're fine (we could save $ 15 a night ...)

Hanoi - Surroundings - train to Lao Cai

7:00 alarm. Baggage fast payment account and deposit luggage at the hotel. 8:30 am arrives ns. punctual chauffeur car! Before you head out of Hanoi's try to go to the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Min (Yesterday afternoon it was already closed) ... but unfortunately it is closed again this morning ... we be content to see the changing of the guard. Then we go 30 km. west. First stop the Thai Pagoda. Second stage Phoung Tay. Many steep steps but beautiful temples and a splendid panorama of the paddy fields below. After we go to the village I know, artisan village, where the manufacture of rice noodles. Lets look at the different stages of processing from house to house ... Here there are no tourists or people you address. It's all very quiet, we meet a friendly guy (but he does not speak English so no communication) leads us to gestures in a small artisan factory where we are more a curiosity for them that their lab is not for us. In my mind already foretaste a lunch of noodles locally produced village but we remain disappointed ... in the village there is even a restaurant. Not a tourist place but simply organized a village artisan. Comunichiamo to ns. driver that before going to the village of silk we would like to eat something ... Open sky. Leads us to a Vietnamese restaurant at 100% where there is neither a list nor in any English speaking a few words ...
Lead us in the kitchen (let stand a description of the kitchen) and we shall see what we have. Denote the chicken and vegetables ... Speriamo bene ... Half an hour after us on the table half a raw chicken, to pieces with skin bone paws nail head and all internal organs together ... raw vegetables (those were not bad) various sauce and rice ... Eat almost anything. To bar entry complete collection of liquors Vietnamese (they sell them to decilitre, extracted from large glass containers and inside, as flavoring ingredients include: snakes, cobras, scorpions, iguanas, giant GECHI, or a mix of everything .. ..) We opt for a simple shot of Vodka in Hanoi. Then comes the owner that all happy to see tourists in its establishment, started taking pictures with his mobile art! We filmed! The camera works best ... Just keep the battery crushed while filming otherwise be extinguished. COMODO much! We pay $ 8 in four including the driver's meal and a tip and we leave. After a stop at the Museum of the Path of Ho chi Min (because it is closed Sunday), we continue towards the village of silk (Van Puch). The latter is much more tourist So, there are many BARETTINI, beautiful restaurants, houses and streets well-restored and especially many shops. We visit a couple of laboratories and workshops where they work to the chassis. The frames are motorized but the preparation for the weaving is still manual. We buy the first to bring gifts to friends and family. The prices are very good.
The ns. driver takes us back to the hotel. Let souvenirs to deposit luggage and we head to the street shoes where Matthew and Charlotte finally make their purchases! Let's take a drink on the lake and then trying to find a restaurant for refreshment before taking the train. We find a nice restaurant with a terrace on the first floor in one of the city center close to ns. hotel. Not elegant but a lot and eat very well (after a meal today we wanted to own) and spend 15 euros in 4! Moreover, not just the owner speaks perfect English! After dinner travel to the hotel to collect luggage and taxi headed for the station!
We are on the 22:30 train to Lao Cai (Sapa). The train is fun. It also has restaurant car (and us that we have brought Drinks menu and various things ...) very few tourists. Italian zero.
We greeted Hanoi a few minutes and it is time to make comments.
"There appeared to be a modern city, much more than we would expect, and also clean. Of course, in the context of Asia. The chaotic traffic of the roads so they are sorted. If you can forget the ns. Road we can say that there is an organized road rules. The traffic lights are an option as the way but if you learn to deal with the traffic in their own way it works. When crossing the streets for example are not you that you have to worry if someone comes to the right. or left (even because in this case do not cross until late evening) but they are hard to avoid. You have only to cross a calm and steady un'andatura. Be sure that gets to the other side unharmed. What we have not understood is meters of the cost of living and purchasing power. We know that a minimum salary is around 25 euros per month and have noticed that ATMs provide just the equivalent of 50 euro cents, but at the same time for two etti lichies want of a euro and if you try to treat yourself rather not sell them. At the same time in Hanoi and the surrounding area we have not noticed a lot of poverty, not least in South America or Sri Lanka. We have seen children soiled or Malvestiti wander the streets. Mendicanti few, even outside the temples. Prostitution is not clear but it certainly exists, as the drug problem, otherwise it would not sense the existence of all those organizations that are fighting for the rights of minors. We, however, we must not forget that we are a family and therefore it is difficult for us approccino for strange reasons. The Carlotta was noticed here that only women work or work better than the heavier and more obvious were held by women. We have read that during the Vietnam war have been distinguished as soldiers, pity that nobody has ever given them the proper recognition. And what about the people? Compared to our other experiences in Asia, people here in Vietnam (Hanoi to at least) , are very hard, just smile. Not that they are unfriendly but ... Perhaps it is the war not so much away ... or perhaps more simply character are more similar to the Chinese people. "
Giampaolo 23:30 hours and I are in the restaurant car. Matthew and Charlotte already asleep. We understand. In two days we have done and seen so many things that even a week seems to me that we are here! The compartment is pretty. The air conditioning (for my luck) and there's still no use ... The mattresses are fairly soft, the beds are large. There is beneath the sheet, cover and pillow! Besides Abatjour, roof racks and table! In the restaurant car, a part of us and two Australian girls who meet during ns. travel more than once, there are only tourists, but the Vietnamese (or Chinese?), besides the railway line is one that goes to China.

Lao Cai - Sapa

7:30 we are on the Jeep that leads us to Sapa!
The morning has already proved sufficiently chaotic and stressful. First at 5:50 we were woken up knocking on the door and screaming Lao Cai Lao Cai ... Me, I was asleep convinced that the train continue for China, I went into panic (by my lovely figuraccia!) So first I tried to ask the controller how long you stop (but did not understand anything) then , not to lose any more time, I started to get excited shouting to my whole family ... "sbrigateviii we scenderee ... ... ... velociiii" Only after almost thrown down by Matthew train with a shoe in his hand, I noted that in the various compartments of our wagon all were quietly putting on socks, shoes, etc.. ... BELLA FIGURA! (I was reminded of the old advertising Alpitur No Ahi Ahi Ahi Ahi). Meanwhile, in the ardor of pulling luggage down the camera fell and broke definitively (s'è rott ')!
Anyway we arrived in Lao Cai.
Given that we were suddenly woken up and down travel without the time to go to the toilet, I had an urgent need to pee, so that, despite the nominee of the Mountain View (hotel booked via Internet) - who had come to take -- insisted on telling us to follow him, I rushed in the first bar available ... And since I was wearing backpacks, and mega-jacket photo pouch and given that there was the classic Turkish, to maintain the balance, I dislocated seeds un'anca and then I went out limping from the bath.
Then there is another problem ... Hotel Mountain View, which I had ordered a private jeep to go to Sapa (as in four cost us little more than the mini), has not managed to ... a charge informed us that there is a bus! I was angry (I had also called yesterday evening to confirm ...)! With my stubbornness pushed me: I want my car! After several discussions with various people at the end comes the jeep. An old jeep (Russian?). The driver is also nice. It is the same that we have to bring a stroll later. It also speaks of something as English.
At 9:00, even after an hour of road SUPER Asphalt (we wonder what a used Jeep?), We come to Sapa, a town that now seems quite elegant and well-organized tourist. In the central square, where the ns. hotel, we welcome a group of young girls' hmong '(of northern tribes). At the reception another surprise: There are ns. rooms (deja vu) ... However we send in the next hotel (the Royal) for the same price (positive note we have a better hotel at a lower figure). We do breakfast, posiamo room in your luggage, we quickly refresh and then start with the ns. jeep sometimes the cascade Thaci Bac and Tram Ton Pass. On the way back, our driver takes us to visit a local nursery with greenhouses, nothing particularly interesting to us, but we understand that for them is important in this area there is a climate that can also grow plums, the nursery is one of the largest producers of indoor plants are exported to all over the world. The Fansipan, as a textbook, is covered with thick clouds. But it does not rain (positive!) On the way back we visit the Sapa market and we are literally surrounded and attacked by the various Hmong sellers, selling everything and with incredible constant. We buy two oggettini some girls. For the typical fabric that I like very much, rather unfortunately known that within the market, the stalls, is sold at less than half. Therefore not buy anything from them nor nor stalls. Let's go to lunch in a restaurant and we sit on the terrace. There is a nice sun and then they take advantage. But after three minutes we are again surrounded by the sellers and then we move inside (which is why all the tourists had to eat inside). In the afternoon the male part of ns. family goes to the hotel to rest while the women (Charlotte and I) decide to go around Sapa. We visit a Catholic church, eat roast chestnuts in the stalls (ce the husked well!), Chatted a little 'with the locals and two girls, do we explain a little' things by the owner of a "pseudo pharmacy" where selling all these products curative unusual for us .. gigantic dried mushrooms, seaweed, herbs and spices unknown, various distillates "flavored" the snake, scorpion, etc..
We buy a maglioncino to do Carlotta and repair my pouch that is being loosened.
Then we return to the hotel and together we decide to go and get a cocktail at the Victoria Sapa Hotel (4 star) ...... but we do not like! Not a genuine environment. They are all supereleganti ... absurd. Then one coast! Then it goes away.
Change restaurant for dinner (also because of what today is already closed) and we are great! They also braziers near the foot to heat. In the evening it's quite cold. We exchange comments on the day and on a fact we all agree: "The girls of the tribes are much more open and friendly as the jovial Vietnamese. They talk a good English and even some French. Should be in school like the others but probably have more interest to learn. "
In addition to the daily comments, Giampaolo tells us that he also made a "figuraccia" on the train yesterday evening. When he went in the bathroom while we were asleep already, return it to the wrong compartment (easy because from the outside are all equal), but not only ... has also sat on the bed of someone else .. to that realized that it could not be his. Said SORRY ... and is released. We laugh like crazy ... Then accompany the children to sleep but since we did not sleep, we return to the restaurant for a drink first. There he chatted with a young French couple who tell us that to get to and from Cat Cat (Hmong tribe village we visit tomorrow) it takes up to 3 hours! Wake up tomorrow and then nothing.

Sapa - Cat Cat - Lao Cai - train to Hanoi

Before sleep colossal in Vietnam (you can see that the climate favors ...)! Breakfast at 9:00 am! Breakfast this morning trying to Vietnam-based soup with noodles (completely tasteless). Charlotte makes friends outside the hotel with the Hmong girls ... they exchange a few words in different languages, and if the writing on quadernetti well! We start to walk to Cat Cat! There is the sun. The village of Cat Cat can safely be described as a TOURIST ATTRACTION POINT ..... Other than hiking! We, who were already prepared to traipsing down a path to insolvency, we were surprised. Practically the first 4 km are asphalted (there are also buses!) The next 3 km. Tour are on a tourist route with a driveway and stone stairs very well made and comfortable (not only the sides lampioncini for night walks). We will see if the other afternoon in the village will be more "original." The landscape is still beautiful with waterfalls, streams, paddy fields. Their village, with simple wooden huts, it is very colorful: the linen hung along the streets, children in their traditional clothes playing in the courtyards. We buy two decorations from two ladies "Dao" (the tribes of red turbans) selling their souvenirs on the street ... It wanted one but in the end one has convinced us that it was not right to buy only from you and not from her friend ... "And my friend ?"...
13:00 short rest on the way back. Drink something in a bar, sitting among huge glass containers filled with rice wine and snakes of all sizes. This morning we threw away the camera is unusable. Now we have 5 new blank cassette pack!
After a good dinner at the hotel are going to pay the bill and to recover our. new taxista (organized at the Hotel Royal) before that lead us to the station in Lao Cai (with short stop to see the Chinese border) we shall bring to the tribal village of Tha Pinho for a short stage (a couple of hours?) . This trip I have organized the past in ns. hotel because I left convinced that it was cheaper than ns. taxista yesterday. But evil begins ... Instead of a jeep or a car reaches a normal super-burglary bus ... goes well, walking. Then along the road the driver begins to pick up several local people, friends, relatives .. at some point we are ten! A girl (the only one that speaks English) explains that she and her family must go to LaoCai and there is no bus. Okay! This for us is not even a big problem (it is pure folklore) .. The big problem comes when we arrive at the entrance to the village of Tha Pinho, after a deviation of 8 km. from the main road. We are told that we can not enter because of the need that we had to obtain permission prior to Sapa! I'm going all the rage because the request for a private transfer was made to have the opportunity to visit the tribal village of Tha Pihn along the way, so was the organization of the hotel which was to procure the permit or tell me where I could get it! At that point, after several discussions, the driver tells us that in all cases there is no better time then head directly to Lao Cai. The thing I smell a 'fraud then: REQUIRE A RETURN OF Sapa why even pretend my money back! (... But because I have paid my taxi driver yesterday?)
Half hour after us, with all passengers as they come falling back to the various stages ..., we arrive at the hotel and casino do it. I want my money back! It raises a putiferio. One of the reception we received the tears and throws into pieces under the reception desk ... A couple of French tourists seated at the hotel tavolinetto are organizing a trip that we look with wonder (in my opinion will change agency). In the end we speak the daughter of the owner of Mountain View (at the bottom is you that I have hijacked the hotel Royal) and after his speech, his mother, and I do not know who else, it does restore the money (22 usd ). Now unfortunately there is no time for the village tribal or to deepen the story of the "entry permits", true or false? Patience. However, the entrance of the village was very similar to Cat Cat, the super-paved streets and therefore we assume it was along the lines of the previous year. Considerations: "I think to see something special you should be able to stay in the area at least 4 or 5 days and organize a hike more enlarged, falling beyond the Pass Ta Throm and returning from the north side. The proximity to a town so turistica Sapa as probably now changed the genuineness of these people. Only the costumes have been but under the traditional costume wearing sneakers, or the Puma dell'Adidas! "
Through the Mountain View, we retrieve our. taxi entrusted to lead us to Lao Cai.
Chinese border to shoot some photographs. Here only one channel of the Red River separating China from Vietnam. Now it is dark you can see only the advertisements and various multicolored lighted buildings. The pedestrian bridge is already closed.
Pending the departure of the train, dinner in a room opposite the station where we drink something with ns. driver and we exchange addresses. Tonight we have booked a wagon-bed "special". Not even cost much more than others: 12 usd against 8 paid to same, and - given that anyway in the hotels and agencies in the train tickets will cost 50% more - the price seemed good to me. But .... There remains the problem of having bought the Royal Hotel and, after the experience afternoon .. we expect all ......
But no .. the wagon is like inside the outward journey but there are also "duvets" with the cover-colored duvets and curtains on the windows .... Furthermore, the door of the compartment also has the glass (the journey was to open grate). Tonight we bought a bottle of whiskey and cognac "local ... In the sense that one side says the other Whiskey and Cognac. SIMPATICO. (so glad they all). We make sure that the station where we go is the last step and then we go to sleep peacefully.

Hanoi - Haipong - Cat Ba (Halong Bay)

Hours 5:15 am sitting in a Barettini - one of those with low seats and low tavolinetti that we had not tried yet - just outside the station in Hanoi, a sip of the. Vietnamese is that strange, bitter, it seems more of a herbal tea that tea however they like, then we tasted. Matthew and Charlotte remain on Lipton. We are waiting for the 6:00 train to Hai Pong, which should take a couple of hours scarce. The station is already full of people.
The trip from Lao Cai has proved the worst journey because it is true that the compartment was more of the pretty, but much closer .... then had the air conditioning at most and is gelava (as we have explained the usefulness of duvets!). I tried to call the staff on the train: they arrived in three. First they found that the switch was out of the compartment, and then tried to put a cloth over the grate of the cold air leakage (which appears impossible task) and finally decided to turn down the thermostat General wagon! WELL DONE! Even if during the night must surely have returned to manetta because we wake up to frost.
We are on the 6:30 train to Haipong, we are out of the city of Hanoi and the sun is rising. BELLO. It is also very beautiful passage of the train in downtown Hanoi. It is interesting to observe its path through the houses. It's like being in a narrow corridor that winds between two rows of condominiums ... you seem to take tea with the Vietnamese sitting at their homes. There are people who breakfast out the door ... you can almost touch. At six o'clock in the morning Hanoi is already animated, streets full of people, crowded local markets, bicycles and motorcycles full of goods, is already what the Vietnamese are able to load on a bicycle he can not even imagine.
The train is an excellent service, the coffee, soft drinks, not further identified things to eat (one had a profumino ...! Gnamm ..).
9:30: After yet another animated discussion outside the station with a procurers Haipong business (we find them we all?) And claiming to be a tourist guide insists that the taxi that takes us to the pier must be given at least three dollars and that the taxametro we do not use it ... give in (because we are too tired to talk for a few dollars) and go up on a taxi that takes us to the port. There being attacked by other procurers business already trying to sell the rooms to Cat Ba ... Climb on the first boat (they call it hydrofoil) available and we leave for the island. Arrive after an hour. The weather is beautiful. Face the multitude of vendors rooms ... We listen to everyone and collect the cards by visiting ... Then we got into a bar to have breakfast ... Meanwhile, consulted the Lonely Planet and analyze the collected cards ... We visit four or five guesthouse on the beach (at the guesthouse I third ruinous fall from the stairs on the same knee still sore), and the fifth guesthouse we stop. Two double rooms with terrace overlooking the sea at 5 usd the one! With TV, bathroom, fridge, lamp, bedside tables, .... All! IL My Ngoc Hotel is also an address warmly recommended by Lonely Planet and in fact we do not regret the choice. Do we bring the mountain to 12:00 and we leave .... Poffarbacco ... the climbs are not wasted ... arrive at the restaurant destroyed. The restaurant, however, bodes well .... It is the floating restaurant Xyan Hong. Lead us on the back show us where all fish and shellfish available ... beautiful, live in tanks! Even we do not speak English and then choose the ns. lunch indicating the various tanks! They weigh them and then carry them in the kitchen. After a lunch like a king (Matthew has eaten a fish over a kilo grilled ..., Carlotta 2 real crabs, shrimps us, vongoloni unbelievably good, with all the trimmings, rice, noodles, etc etc.), I extract my Lonely Planet and try to communicate with the owner, who is also the cook! I can tell you in "perfect" Vietnamese 'I like' (Tôi thích)! She understands and is so happy that almost m'abbraccia .... Then ... Vietnamese always try to book a table for tomorrow evening ... but we do not succeed ... In the meantime, however, comes the husband, who speaks English, and so solve the problem ... Their children, meanwhile, proved by the ns. Mountainbike hanging bridge on the close (which we did on foot ... ah ah). After a couple of glasses of whiskey start .... immediately ahead and a slope of 14 degrees! ... I do the walk ... We look at the beach of Cat Co. .. work in progress here. Seems to provide a major tourism development ... But we so far of tourists we have seen little even if the weather is beautiful. Not hot, nor cold. Visit the port and the village of Cat Ba then, after a beautiful sunset, we return to the hotel.
Dinner there tonight, and then we rest a while '...
While Giampaolo takes the drink on the seafront Matthew Carlotta and I play from the balcony .... we have a laser Lucina and we dart to the ground in front of people who walk ... is a fun!. Cé who seeks to crush the foot ... there who are running away but there are also those who raise their gaze e. .... takes us in the act! Final dinner with a base of excellent Vietnamese vodka (not the more we will find throughout the trip NDR) and nanna!

Halong Bay

10:00: We are on the wooden boat (type Giunco) booked yesterday to ns. hotel for the trip in Halong Bay. Boat only to our confidential. family, for the entire day including lunch ..... only 40 usd total ... There is even jumped in mind to deal ..! They came to take us to the hotel at 8:30 with four motor-bike and led us to board. The day is beautiful. The sea is emerald ... the view is breathtaking! Now there remains only the ns. old reflex and digital-camera photos of Matthew ... but it also unleashed. At the port floating pass in the village of fishermen (which is not mentioned by the Lonely Planet). Phenomenal. Are true and their homes set on floats, with balconies, windows, plants and flowers, television antennas and pets (dogs mainly) ... the only difference is that instead of the streets outside the door there's the sea and go somewhere you have to take the boat. Nell'escursione today we will pass through floating villages, there are many around the island of Cat Ba. There are also floating schools, in fact we must not forget that Vietnam is one of the countries with the highest index of school (we are around 92%). The trip takes us through the most beautiful views of the bay, naturally dug tunnels under the huge rocks that fall to peak in the waters buildings. Under one of these galleries we go with a small canoe to the end and it surprised us a wonderful ... there's like a small lake inside the enclosed between towering rocks. Al ns. back on the boat awaits us lunch! Wow, we have a head-prepared, well-aligned on a mat, a range of plates and bowl containing rice, vegetables, soy, fresh salad, roasted fish, squid ... and VAIII! Other than lunch. After eating, we put everyone in costume, as it came too hot. On the way back in fact, from Bahia to Lan Ha dell'Ananas we stop here, the beach of monkeys, where we do the bathroom! The monkeys are very nice but there's a couple fairly aggressive in fact a group of tourists is already on the run.
At sunset, when we return to port by boat, the floating village near the harbor of Cat Ba seems even more beautiful and picturesque.
19:00 we are at floating restaurant yesterday ... But this time we came by taxi! Other Luculliana eaten and finally, Matthew and I run to nell'assaggio wine gecko! Not bad .. and, since we'll bring food in small glasses, you just do not think that this liquorino comes from the glass jar inside with four or five huge GECHI, which is then displayed on the bar. Left with a bottle opener on the table then we get to play the "game of the bottle" ...- say or do - the fact is ... that touches me to go on the back (which then has another floating terrace) to help wash the dishes, of course, to their way and then crouching on the floor like a perfect Vietnamese! But those who enjoyed the most are undoubtedly one of the restaurant, we certainly have taken for crazy, but laughing in taste!
At 21:20 we're already in and sit a while 'at the bar. Let us chat with the owner who speaks good English and is also the person most proper that we met in Vietnam so far! Almost over-correct, as to advise us to move tomorrow in Binh Nihn bus because he argues that private transport is too expensive! We also bought tickets dell'aliscafo without any increase in price ... We are glad to have known a person like him because, unfortunately, the experiences to date we had become very suspicious! A Cat Ba indeed all the people we met were very kind, available, friendly and even smiling. Special People in short. Cat Ba Viva! We play again with the laser Lucina ... this time also plays Giampaolo (which yesterday was still there !)... But now most of the locals, who walks on the beach, we already know and then becomes a play group! 21:45 hours at the bar reaches a massage ... why not ... try it with my knee .. a success! So much so that I can do the bending. Then test with Giampaolo but he suffers, the poor ....

Cat Ba - Haipong - Nin Bihn - Tam Coc - S3 Train

7:15 hours we take the bus to our front. hotel that brings us to the pier on the other side of the island. Here we go on a boat which, after being beaten maneuver (twice) on a pier at the port, finally able to start and lead us safely to Haipong in twenty minutes. Today the weather is foggy not that bad yesterday was beautiful! For Haipong landings at another port from which, however, partly a minibus (which then goes directly to Hanoi), which leads us into the center. Arrive at the bus station and take the national tickets Nihn Bihni, via Nam Dihn, where we must change. The bus leaves at 10:00.
Carlotta and I go to the toilet a second station. There is the usual set of Turkish with small door on the right but there's a kind of tub - long a couple of meters, height 15-20 cm, width 40-50 cm - in which water flows. Who knows what is the use? The answer is not to arrive late! While it looks Carlotta comes a lady who, completely unaware of my presence, step on the sale, you pull on the skirts, the pants down, is crouching on the tank and makes a pee ...
On the bus, the driver waiting for the departure, is watching television - hanging right above the driver's seat. Sure that the Vietnamese do not know without TV stand! Witness the loading of goods, because the bus in Vietnam used to carry things. Load all packages, bags of rice, bicycles, furniture ... some things in under the seats, others on the roof. Hours are 10:15 a.m. on the road. We are the only tourists and attracted a lot of curiosity. So much so that after a few minutes a couple of people come to sit near us and a little 'in English a little' with the help of sketches and drawings ... we exchange various information. First question: How many years have ... The response shall consult with each other and laugh ... (I'd like to know why they laugh? For them appear younger or older?). Matthew's age (13) made mention of dissent ... in fact for them is so high (1.78), which is difficult to convince them. Then a man took the hand of Matthew the searches on one side and then the other and said "beautiful!" Another gentleman tells us who is master of the Vietnamese Navy, makes us see the card with him ... we communicate in English , in writing. Strangely there words to understand. Meanwhile, the bus goes on its way ... local travelers ascend and descend from the bus "in the race ".... in practice, the bus slows down just ... in any case there is a train that will grab the hand and helps them to rise .. in some cases them "literally rolls on." Luckily we go down the line. The various parcels undergo the same treatment. It works like this: The bus arrives in the vicinity of the place of delivery, he started playing the horn all'impazzata, a Then someone comes along the road racing and, after a brief exchange of words, throw the pack! A Nam Dihn you change buses and it ends on a bus load more of the previous! The roof full of goods and the interior also , so that ns. children are sitting on sacks of grain. On this bus there are also many television and hi-fi ... we hope it does not download with the same technique of the previous bus ....
Once in Nihn Bin go by taxi to the indicatoci by Hanoi, where we pick up your tickets for the train tonight and where we leave the luggage in storage! With the same taxi we are lead to Tam Coc, he asks if we should expect ... but it should be? Who knows how many taxis there are in a tourist town so ... Lunch quickly and badly (for the first time in Vietnam) and then we prepare to more intensive canal. Tam Coc is a village in the midst of paddy fields, where a series of natural channels that they forward in a landscape very similar to Halong Bay. Tall stacks, rocky walls, a cliff caves. Along this beautiful countryside you brought with small boats run by women who row with their feet. Carlotta and I were having a "grandmother" and his nephew of 15 years. Even Carlotta tried to row with their feet .... but was a failure .... In return we show their products (to sell), embroidery on silk for the most part ... so buy some souvenirs ... The "grandmother" is very friendly, smiles a lot and speaks French. Sure rowing all day .... Now seeing a scene that confirms the site. doubts about the value and purchasing power of the Vietnamese currency. In fact, when we leave a tip to the "grandmother" her from the equivalent of 6-7 euro cents to the nephew, who jumps for joy. (Surely the prices we have paid so far, including water, prices are tacitly agreed only for tourists!). It can be explained differently because they are all well dressed, their restaurants and bars are always full of people ... as if they would pay a small bottle of water 50 cent. or sometimes even 1? ... be kind to Cuba?
Dall'escursione return to the yard is desert, either bus or taxi, they drive or rompiscatole ...! Yes, but ... as we return to town? We are on foot, confident that soon and, as always, will arrive in taxis and motorbikes tens .... but we would be wrong. So on our return. steps and asking in a shop ... after half an hour of negotiation that bikes arrive 4 to $ 8 total, we are back in town.
We make a trip to Nihn Bin (nothing special) and then dinner in the hotel where we left the luggage. After dinner, we chat with the owner of the hotel that shows photos of proud when he hosted a political group and the Prime Minister. Carlotta ride as the Prime Minister is in Vietnam and fat people fat are extremely rare (you can see that the ministers also eat well in Vietnam). The ride owner. To 23:15 we have a train to Hué! At the station we see the first kitten Vietnamese ... leads him on a leash tied a child (?!?). The train arrives on time. Nanna.

Hué

hours are 9:10 to arrive at the station of Hué. We have just drunk a the Vietnamese that we have paid a figure! Moreover, when the seller asked me 40,000 dong (equivalent to 2 euros) myself that it was still half asleep paid unflinchingly ... Giampaolo but that was more awake than I, says "What? 40,000 dong for this crap? Very expansive! Do not want it ... "As the seller makes it 10,000 dong, but it is very .... as for example yesterday at the bus station Haipong we bought with the same number as a sandwich, two beers, a packet of biscuits, the three and a packet of sweets ... Goes well. Tonight, we slept well. Comfortable mattresses and air conditioning this morning we were woken up very early ... We have also given 4 bottles of water and a lunch that consisted of a sandwich that Giampaolo has been devoured! I do not know how he did, because it was inedible - the bread was sweet and salty inside - only the quail egg inside was good! Hué For we have not the hotel but will, look at the Lonely Planet will choose one in the old town. The hotel Than Us. Do we take a taxi. The rooms are not exactly cheap but the hotel is beautiful, has great common areas, a nice restaurant, a large garden to relax, it also has a pool, which now serves not just ... because it is almost cold and clouds. Lunch at the hotel and also very good. Then buy a bottle of digestive Vietnamese (type Unicum), which is also very nice ... the bottle is in Chinese ceramic bearing two small glasses ever Chinese style with blue designs. After lunch, we rented bikes: 1 usd a day and half day for U.S. dollars ... ½ But in the end will be discussed as usual, because we always try ... is stronger than theirs. Let us all round the town and on the road we see a house with a garden full of people, all dressed in white with black bands on their heads ... will be a funeral? They drink beer all spying. Someone later told us that where premises are still playing Russian roulette, but we prefer not to believe it. After the first round scoured the immense area of town we go to visit the imperial city. Very nice, although unfortunately the signs of destruction caused by war are still noticeable. In the late afternoon return the bicycles. At the hotel to book the trip for tomorrow to go and visit the Imperial Tombs of the boat along the River of Perfumes. 15 usd for a boat, except that the lunch is paid directly to the owners. In the evening we move into the center, the new part of town (beyond the river). You walk along the river that we see immediately that if we were directly here, the boat for tomorrow were at half the price paid at the hotel! Dinner coffee and Good Stay, run by a Vietnamese painter some 'special ... long white hair stopped a ponytail. Snacks are eaten including the spring rolls that wonderful grilled, wrapped in rice paper, then dip it in a peanut sauce. Carlotta tagliolini orders the usual. Then we make two steps in the city. You can see here that the first mice that night wandering the sidewalks ... It's Saturday night and the premises are full of Vietnamese people, most of these bars, karaoke and video-bar, with huge television screens where the film project on DVD. 23:00 nanna, tomorrow we start soon!

Hué (Excursion on the Perfume River - Imperial Tombs)

Are at 8:00 and take us to accompany the landing! The boat is beautiful, shaped like a very colorful Drago. Booked on the boat there's the whole family: the boatman, his wife and two children, perhaps on this boat we also live. The time is covered but - positive note - it does not rain. We are fortunate because the area of Hué to December is rainy season. First stage: The pagoda of Thien Mui, octagonal tower symbol of Vietnam. Sin which is in restructuring therefore surrounded by scaffolding. Near the temple there is the Buddha who ride. Tradition has it that the faithful are in this temple on the first day of the year to make a good wish for happiness (who ride the first ride of the whole year ....). In this complex of temples across the first tourists in Italy, with private guide that ... even speak our language. The lady of the boat, to ask if we wanted lunch, showed us a series of photos of tourists who were eating and then on an old copy of Lonely Planet c'indicava the various types of food. We agree, but without asking the price .... alas. 10:00 Exit un po 'di sole. While browsing the way, the lady opens huge bags and begins to spread on the floor a series of merchandise, souvenirs, ceramics, pictures, wooden items, clothing silk ... OK. Carlotta stick to complete a beautiful black silk (the Vietnamese classic trousers and a blouse kimono). We also test. I choose a dressing gown. For all want $ 30. We try to deal with but nothing to be done. In any event, since they are very friendly, if instead of giving them a tip buy these items, also do something good. Second stage: Nom Chen Temple (on the Planet Lonly not there), which was not anything special to go and we all tarnished. But we had since Charlotte and I have hidden the shoes of Matthew and Dad outside the temple and then we waited a good fifteen minutes on the boat .... before the arrival! Third stage: the splendid tomb of Mihn Mang. At about 13:30 Lunch and very good. The lady has prepared a menu really good! After lunch, first breakthrough: we advise to go to the Tomb of Khal Din argue that because there are three kilometers to go. walk and unfortunately has begun to flood. Then I will add a program, the tomb of Tri Thien. Not believe it .... but we were unable to find it. We found ourselves in a very strange because, after walking to the right and left in open country (almost a foot to the tomb of TuDoc because of misinformation that we had given the girls), we finished on a main road. It was disappointing. We tried to make a sign of motorcyclists to stop you to ask them the direction of the temple. Unfortunately there was no one standing. We also tried to stop people cycling. In all cases, despite our. wonder, has not stopped anyone. Some have even made some gestacci and a cyclist behind us yelled something. Perhaps if they do not have a pattern of interest are not available to help you with? It's ugly to think. Last stop: The Tomb of Tu Duc. This is really beautiful, because they will be immersed in nature or it will be because he belonged to the emperor Tu Duc, famous for its magnificence, for his 104 wives and for the office of the city of Hué as the home of Vietnamese cuisine, with its 50 cooks court that every day had to cook 50 different dishes. Continue Drizzle but patience always better than the flood. Onto the park several times and found the graves. It's huge. In the palace of the - that there was also a hunting reserve and went with his concubines - Carlotta is also photographed dressed as a empress. Later we return to Hué. Arrived at the pier we have the account of the dinner: 450,000 dong well. M'innervosisco because Cat Ba in a beautiful restaurant with a lot less we ate oysters, huge grilled fish, shrimp, etc. .. So ... we always try? So at the end of the heads to give up in silk. Let's go back to the hotel on foot. Matthew goes to sleep and the three of us go to the central market of Hué. It is huge and divided in all sectors: industry shoes, hats sector, clothing sector, etc. .. Clothing sector are the same leaders who were in the boat. Here they want to even $ 75. Start an incredible bargain ... the figure of $ 30 went ce. A $ 27 we are back. A 25 purchase. Buy a pair of sunglasses and a orologino for Charlotte. Let's go back to the hotel a little 'tired. Shower and forth. Tonight we decided to ashes at Tinh Gia Vien restaurant near our hotel. It is famous for playing the kitchen in the old imperial style. Located in a beautiful garden. Strangely there is no one, even if the service, the choreography and the tastes are impeccable. The presentation of the dishes and their decorations are something that rarely has the opportunity to see. A menu that, in the West, could cost well over 100 euros a head, here with a rather good bottle of French wine spend 585,000 dong (29 euro) in all. From Hué is definitely a place not to be missed! In hotel preparing backpacks and then drink a whiskey at the bar. This garden is so beautiful and relaxing ...... Wake up tomorrow morning at 5:30 (maximum 6:00)!

Hué - Da Nang - Hoi An

7:00 go to the station after breakfast and paid the bill! (thank goodness that there are credit cards). Hours 8:10 train to Danang is already on the road. A very nice Vietnamese lady offers dried fruits brownish ... Husked them while she and her son are watching us and laughing. But they are really good and I believe that lichies dried. The arrival is expected to Danag between 2 hours and a half. 10:00 move on step which separates the provinces of Hué and Danang. In theory it should also mark the change of climate that is, from a sunny nuvolo. But unfortunately it is not so. The train passes a lady who sells the jars that seem to those of yoghurt. I (obviously), I offer a taste of ... very good! So they buy another six. A visit to Danang to take a driver from the mandate of Hoi An, along the road so we can make the stages: the first on China Beach, where lunch, the second to the Marble Mountains.
When we arrive at Danang and the driver there's also speaks English! Well. We make two steps on China Beach, is a little 'cloudy but not bruttissimo. We choose a restaurant among the many, and we climbed the steep stairs. These restaurants are all on very high stilts ... certainly the tides of the rainy season should not be a joke. We make a huge meal (that news ...) based on oysters, crabs, shells in a spicy sauce, fish lobster and prawns. Here we see the Vietnamese second cat, a beautiful little cat, and even pregnant! Carlotta the pampers to the delight of dad (which is not true love cats very much). We know a couple of Vietnamese who speaks perfect English! We understand now why they live in Canada, he is a former dissident. Now I'm here for the Christmas holidays. I like him a lot of questions but we can not enjoy that much. After lunch we continue our. car and go to the Marble Mountains. They are very nice although a little 'tiring, especially after our lunch today! Steps, stairs and more stairs. We in any case to make the full path and see all the temples and caves all (except one). We take a full roll, but .... Unfortunately, the evening after we will, with great regret, that it was not locked. At the foot of these hills there are many marble workshops selling sculptures of marble, but not only tiny, there are of enormous size. Tell us that exporting more ... and that the cost of shipping is not too high ... we are tempted to buy two beautiful lions to be put at the entrance to our house but then desist. We arrive at Hotel Van Loi, found on the Internet and have booked several weeks. It is very very beautiful. On the first floor there is also a large swimming pool and bar-restaurant is located in a top floor terrace with a wonderful panoramic view over the river and Hoi An. Stowed luggage we change and we start to explore the town but it is already dark. Now we find the same silk trousers that yesterday was the subject of lengthy negotiations. Here they sell them at $ 5 before bargaining. This is a city of tailors! Giampaolo order a pair of pants that sport is tailored package will be available tomorrow night for $ 7. Walk a little 'to the old town which seems very beautiful, elegant, full of restaurants, and pleasant guest-house. This is the first time that we see so many tourists and lots of life in Vietnam, but this town is, indeed, very pleasant. Around 20:00 we stop to eat in a restaurant floating on the river, near the Japanese bridge. Eat well and drink the excellent Hungarian wine (we could not take it ...). Then you enter the hotel.

Hoi An - My Son - Hoi An

At 7: 30 we are already on a taxi (always because of that is fairly cheap!) That will lead us to My Son. This morning we were woken up in the usual way so kind like "Good morning, it's six o clock", but with an imperative "please wake up." But I thought that the owner is a former Vietnamese soldier in retirement. It is one of those who fought against the Americans. We also read an interview, which stated that, first of all he feels a military ... with this is also the technique of the alarm!
Breakfast this morning was rather thin, either because it was early or because you want everything in the hotel we are only a dozen guests! .... Less harm than the Lonely Planet said that Hoi An must book well in advance because everything is always full ...
7:50 hours we just managed to overcome a stretch of "off road" between the mud, huge holes and bumps incredible - Case work in progress - and is going out the sun! Giampaolo So at least stop complaining about the time, even if the weather we have had only two days and the rain just for half a day .... There was a lot worse in our travels (flooding in Chile where they saw a drop of water from 70 years ... deluge in California Bahia where it rained since 1884 ... even Hurgada was raining). We must always grasp the positive side of things (and I assure you that there is always, if only for the fact that in all cases there is something worse!). Once in My Son (heritage site declared by UNESCO after the Halong Bay, Hué and Hoi An) buy tickets and go up on the jeep that takes us to the visitor center, from which the route. My Son is the archaeological site of the kingdom of Champa in Vietnam most famous. My Son was the most of its glory between the fourth and thirteenth century, and were it not for the American bombing that seriously damaged most of the structures, My Son is one of the best preserved sites in Vietnam! Scoured the various sectors (B and C are those in better conditions, and the most interesting). My Son has its charm also because of its position among green hills and the stream that crosses it. The "A" has not yet been restored, and perhaps never will be, seems to have been left in those conditions to witness the devastation caused by American bombing. At 11: 00 ns already closed. visit. The shift in output towards the jeep is more folk-first because of the driver likes to sing and fills us with the hymn in Ho Chi Min and, finally, with Hello Beautiful! 12: 00 we are already returning to Hoi An and so we have more time to visit the ancient city. We do our. tickets and follow the circular path, we see some temples, meeting rooms, houses of 700 Chinese, etc ... Hoi An is very well maintained.
In a shop in the streets of the center of the trousers are also equal to those of Carlotta, but only one dollar! .... But it is an old lady who said, in fact, after a second rushes trafelato a guy who speaks English and the price is converted as if by magic in $ 8 .... Lunch in a small restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet and eat very well, spending about 8 euro in four. Fight at the restaurant because Giampaolo (as always) want to taste the dishes of all while we, who choose the very carefully, we would like to eat alone ... Morale ... it hurts .. reason why the evening the family is divided! I and our children continue. tour and visit a house museum, "China always, but where there still lives a family. This house is beautiful, belonged to the merchants are very important. Has some fabulous carvings in mother of pearl on the wooden columns. I try to photograph but I do not have the flash .... Who knows? Here we also offer the (Vietnamese) and Matthew, who wants to be friendly, the drinks all of a breath ... referred him to pay the other .... On the way back to the hotel we meet in a bar, the two Australian tourists encountered on a train and Cat Ba! We exchange a greeting and a few words and then return. The counter of the reflex has already arrived later than the 38th photo ... and advancing yet. E 'here that we discover that it was not coupled to the roll ... Marble Mountains then, Hoi An and My Son ......... GOODBYE! And they just had to Tam Coc riifunzionare started the meter.
Giampaolo is still angry that decides not to come with us in town .... And then we just start our own. Find a way to store CD (copied) and buy five or six, not without having heard all before! Crossing the bridge on the opposite side we see a nice restaurant with terrace overlooking the river ... we go there but the prices are high, then continue through the center of town. We stop in two Internet Café to read the e-mail, but both the first and the second connections are so slow that the operation is impossible! We stop at a restaurant with a beautiful terrace from the street in front of the market and dinner. At buy fruit (do not remember the name ... but kind lichies larger, red ..) and then we move towards the hotel, but not to stop by in a bar to make a partitina pool. Tomorrow we start to the South and we are moving by train longer! We decided by common agreement, to skip Na Trang. All the news read by travelers on the Internet agreed that there was one very interesting. If to this we then add that to December is the season of rain, of course, avoiding it.

Hoi An - Da Nang - Train to Phan Thiet (Mui Né)

At 10:00 we are on our. taxi towards Danang. This morning the payment of the account has been quite complicated since the beginning I have asked the 4% increase compared with payment by credit card. I am angry because they usually ask for 2% and then starts a discussion sfegatata. In the end we agree to 3%. Subsequently, the link line does not work (will it?) So I make the application pending, "because you do not pay in cash?" - Why do not I!
No Problem ... waiter in a motorcycle brings me to a bank to draw from (where I apply a commission of 2.9%, which then added to the Visa is almost 5%. With half an hour off track, finalmente si parte! In Danang we are accompanied in a restaurant on the banks of the Han River where we book a table for 13:00 and ask if in the meantime we take your luggage! Of course yes! So get the backpacks and we are accompanied by our driver at the museum Cham art, where they kept the most important sculptures saved from the archaeological site of My Son. Visited the Museum, go back to the restaurant on foot, along the river. It is quite cold and it is always nuvolo. Hanakim The Din Restaurant is very elegant and a superb service. In the list has dishes from all over the world, from Italian cuisine to the Japanese. So, among a sample and the other (now we all try to Giampaolo) arrives soon time to go to the station. The ns. thirsty to 15:30 or so.
On the train we see that we have forgotten to buy water ... we only have the beer, as well as sandwiches, fruit and various, but the children do not go well. We play a little cards and chat. At 18:30 (pity we do not have the camera) and bring us dinner on trays type aircraft - four! A payment order can also coscette roast chicken and beer. Water is free. The train is full of Vietnam on vacation! Tourists always very very few. 22:00 we discover that the door of our. compartment does not close (if not a key ... but not even comes up is blocked). Call a couple of railway which obviously I do not understand, but they translate what I say to a girl of 9 years (part of a family of Vietnamese living in Singapore and it is here on holiday). After ten minutes come in four, armed with screwdrivers, pliers, etc. ... and find the solution. Remove the lock so the door and at least comes up! Not close? Patience e. .. good night.

Pan thiet - Mui ne

At 10:00 we are on our. taxi towards Danang. This morning the payment of the account has been quite complicated since the beginning I have asked the 4% increase compared with payment by credit card. I am angry because they usually ask for 2% and then starts a discussion sfegatata. In the end we agree to 3%. Subsequently, the link line does not work (will it?) So I make the application pending, "because you do not pay in cash?" - Why do not I!
No Problem ... waiter in a motorcycle brings me to a bank to draw from (where I apply a commission of 2.9%, which then added to the Visa is almost 5%. With half an hour off track, finalmente si parte! In Danang we are accompanied in a restaurant on the banks of the Han River where we book a table for 13:00 and ask if in the meantime we take your luggage! Of course yes! So get the backpacks and we are accompanied by our driver at the museum Cham art, where they kept the most important sculptures saved from the archaeological site of My Son. Visited the Museum, go back to the restaurant on foot, along the river. It is quite cold and it is always nuvolo. Hanakim The Din Restaurant is very elegant and a superb service. In the list has dishes from all over the world, from Italian cuisine to the Japanese. So, among a sample and the other (now we all try to Giampaolo) arrives soon time to go to the station. The ns. thirsty to 15:30 or so.
On the train we see that we have forgotten to buy water ... we only have the beer, as well as sandwiches, fruit and various, but the children do not go well. We play a little cards and chat. At 18:30 (pity we do not have the camera) and bring us dinner on trays type aircraft - four! A payment order can also coscette roast chicken and beer. Water is free. The train is full of Vietnam on vacation! Tourists always very very few. 22:00 we discover that the door of our. compartment does not close (if not a key ... but not even comes up is blocked). Call a couple of railway which obviously I do not understand, but they translate what I say to a girl of 9 years (part of a family of Vietnamese living in Singapore and it is here on holiday). After ten minutes come in four, armed with screwdrivers, pliers, etc. ... and find the solution. Remove the lock so the door and at least comes up! Not close? Patience e. .. good night.

Mui Ne

Ore 9: 00 dopo colazione ritiriamo le ns. biciclette prese a noleggio in un negozio appena fuori dall'albergo (in albergo costavano 4 usd mentre qui 2....?!) e partiamo all'esplorazione di questo villaggio, che si sviluppa in lunghezza, per chilometri e chilometri.... Noi siamo quasi all'estremo sud. Sul lato interno si intravedono le famose dune di Mui Ne. Sono molto belle. Ci addentriamo un pó all'interno ma è troppo lontano e troppo in salita. Inoltre c'è un sole cocente, pertanto rinunciamo... ne abbiamo viste tante nel Sahara, in Cile, anche in Sardegna... Continuiamo invece per il lungo mare, attraversiamo tutto il centro cittá dove, man mano che spariscono i grandi alberghi e resort, si moltiplicano le piccole guest-house. Ci fermiamo in un'agenzia consigliata dalla Lonely Planet per organizzare il trasferimento a Saigon per domani. Lí ci chiedono 45 dollari per un auto privata da hotel a hotel. Mi sembra un'ottima cifra (infatti anche il proprietario del ristorante italiano di ieri sera ci chiederá poi l'indirizzo), in fondo sono quasi 200 km.. Inoltre, dato che in hotel ce ne hanno chiesti 58... lo prenotiamo! Arriviamo fino al villaggio dei pescatori. Lí il panorama è meraviglioso. Scattiamo un sacco di foto, poi prendiamo la strada del ritorno. Siamo mezzi bruciacchiati dal sole tranne la Carlotta che si è direttamente abbronzata! Verso mezzogiorno lasciamo le biciclette al negozio e la signora insiste che dobbiamo tenerle ancora perché le abbiamo pagate per tutto il giorno... Vero, ma avremmo giá fatto 40 chilometri e siamo sufficientemente distrutti... poi oggi è venerdì 17 quindi meglio non esagerare!
Indovinate dove si va a pranzo? Ovvio... al ristorante di ieri! Ci scateniamo in un'altra colossale mangiata e bevuta. Il cielo si è coperto... meglio dato che siamo tutti rossi come gamberi! Oggi scriviamo le prime 32 cartoline dato che, da domani ricomincia il "tour de force" e non avremo piú tutto questo tempo libero. Al pomeriggio riposino in spiaggia e alle 17:00 ultimo bagno nel mare del Vietnam! Conosciamo due signore Vietnamite che noi, data la particolare eleganza - cappellini, copricostume, etc. - avevamo scambiato per Giapponesi. Sono di Saigon, sono in vacanza e domani andranno alle terme (?!? sulle terme non avevo letto nulla!), in direzione Dalat. Ceniamo alle 21:30 in un ristorantino dove incontriamo i primi italiani "zaino in spalla"... sono due giovani di Torino simpatici e stanno facendo il ns. giro al contrario (ma hanno anche molti piú giorni di tempo.... Beati loro!). Turisti comunque ne abbiamo visti per ora molto molto pochi. Forse sono tutti concentrati nel periodo Natale- Capodanno... perché anche il ns. albergo è praticamente vuoto, ma a giudicare dalle strutture esistenti e dai preparativi che si vedono in paese, dovrebbero attendere parecchio turismo. Dopo cena andiamo a nanna anche perché la sveglia è alle 6: 00!

Mui Né - Saigon

Arrives on time at 7:30 on ns. driver that will lead us in Saigon. We have already paid the bill, made breakfast and then we start now! I just started immediately turn off the air conditioning (in the car will have been at least two degrees below zero ...) and he also seems happy! Today the weather is beautiful. On the way to the smell of Saigon MUOC MNON (the smelly sauce made of fermented fish) is terrible! There will be factories concentrated in these parts. However yesterday we have eaten with rice paper ... we see that after a while 'habit you ...
Around 11:00 we arrived in Saigon, we enter the city through a modern highway to four lanes, sometimes elevated, through a modern industrial zone. At the entrance of the village begin to appear on both sides modern condominiums. The traffic seems much more regular in Hanoi (but need to consider that today is Saturday ...). We arrive in the center. Stupendo. The city began quite a surprise. We were expecting something completely different. From reading the Lonely Planet, but also some travel diaries published on the Internet, we made an idea of a chaotic city, dirty, infested with mice that walk the streets at night, beggars, children that theft, slum .. .. Some people even spoke of shock and horror immediately upon arrival in Saigon ..... We're speechless. For charity, of poor people around you see, we are still in Asia, but from here all'orrore ....
We arrive at Hotel Majestic. In Saigon, we chose a luxury hotel. Here in Asia we can afford. I booked via the internet and gave us a beautiful suite for $ 98! The hotel is beautiful, not so much for the luxury and elegance, but as for the grandeur of this ancient palace in the French colonial style. We leave the luggage at the reception (also because the room is not ready yet) and we run to the discovery of Saigon. It is very hot. Turn the whole day on foot (there are also persistent cyclo here but are not so obsessive as in Hanoi). We go up to the Cathedral of Notre Dame then try a restaurant recommended by Lonely placet, near the Museum of the remnants of war, but it is sealed ... then we opt for a restaurant near there. Eat a good roast pigeon! Then we go to the museum, which better suited the old name of "Museum of American war crimes." In all cases most of the photos on display here, come from American archives. The museum is shocking, especially the part dedicated to the devastation caused by the chemical bombs, by Napalm and herbicides. There is even a room where they are exposed under glass deformed embryos to assume that children are born dead. And pictures of people disfigured by burns, bodies deflagrate bomb, faces disfigured by gas ... E 'horrible.
There is also a photo of an American soldier who is posing with his hand taking the right pieces (I just shreds) of a Vietnamese soldier. And then for a war proved to be useless.
There distraiamo a bit watching the guns and bombs on display from 7 tons in the yard. Make less impression. The last room of the museum is dedicated to the press and there are photos of all forms of protest on the war in Vietnam took place in the world, from 1966 to 1969. There is also a photo of a demonstration in Rome, and even from Budapest! When leave is already late and the Palazzo della Runificazione is already closed. What more to do tomorrow! We head towards the central market, a pleasant stroll among these beautiful avenues in the colonial style, surrounded by old buildings for the most part very well restored. The Central Market is a pleasant surprise .. E 'clean, bright. The desks are all well aligned and sorted. The merchandise is well exposed and (unheard of!) For the first time in Vietnam, there are also cards with money! Returning to the hotel we pass a road full of luxurious shops say enough ... Certainly in Hanoi we have not seen anything like this. There are clothes shops but also supermarkets international all'occidentale. We also find a shop specializing in French cheeses, wine bar and a delicatessen with the typical Italian products: Parma ham, salami and even culatello! We also note that the tents located above the windows comes a kind of gas ... think of some disinfectant is air conditioning to cool those that stop to watch on sale! Hotels in taking possession of the suite, which is very beautiful. While the children are just starting on the tray of fruit gift and devour, we are going to scour the hotel. 8. there is a piano bar with a breathtaking view over the Saigon River. It is the sunset and it is beautiful. Then there is another bar on the 7th plan on the other side of the hotel and a restaurant at 6 .. There is another restaurant on the 4th plan but it is too elegant ... not even know what to get .... In the end we decide to eat at the restaurant at ground level. Tonight there is a buffet at a fixed price so everyone chooses what he wants and no one is stressed. Then discarding the backpacks, we take a shower and we are already ready to go. I have a bit of problem to retrieve a car with driver for tomorrow at a decent price. We want to go and see the tunnels of Cu Chi War ... we can not go with an organized tour because we still see a lot of things and the tour back in the late afternoon. In hotels, for a car for half a day, they asked me $ 60 ... Then I try to call the agency to which we have booked the tour on the Mekong, so the opportunity to confirm the time and place of pick up .. but they ask me $ 60. Then I recall, and I make an offer of 50 .. but in the meantime, I do not know how I managed through a clerk at the reception to find a car at $ 40! The car is confirmed for tomorrow morning at 8:00. Dinner in a calm, then try to climb to 8th Plan to drink but there's a private party (starting winter school holidays) for which nothing .... The children go to sleep and we are going in the bar (the one at 7th floor). The show that you can enjoy the river, even at night, with all the lights access is a marvel. In the street below us pass many motorbikes. Here in Saigon, there are still more cars. A lot of people on the streets tonight ... Saturday night is well for them. 22:30 to try to see if the private party is over, because the bar is open. There are only Vietnamese customers and there is live music. There is also a lady who sings songs American'70s, including Gloria Gaynor, and is really good! Surely in time of war did the shows for the Americans, the rest is here in the South of Vietnam that had the basics.

Saigon - Cu Chi - Saigon

We do a late lunch so we start around 8:30. The driver procuratoci the reception is friendly and speaks English well enough (it was now). We discover that Mr. Trung, so called, in time of war fought with the Americans. It also says that almost all the rickshaw drivers are people who fought with the Americans. The reunification of the country the government of Ho Chi Min does not allow these people to return to their jobs (teaching, politics, government offices), but lets just this opportunity ... ride! At 9:45 we are almost there. The roads are in very good condition. We are in the countryside, but everything is very orderly. The houses are all very decent and painted in pastel colors, have roof tiles and fencing. Near Cu Chi we notice that there is also a water-park! We come to passages where, before we do see a movie, and then begin the journey into the jungle, including reconstructions of field kitchens, dormitories, various halls and tunnels ... Such that for a stretch of 50 meters is open to the public, are also illuminated (we had brought the flashlights ...). In the first gallery Giampaolo feels almost evil (attack of claustrophobia) and we do not know why not go back you can ... but after few meters there is an exit (thank goodness) so we continue on their own - I who Gattoni! The second tunnel to leave the children. There is very hot in there ... and think that they ran inside with the weapons on their shoulders. Since we have not taken the lead .. We queued for a French group, so we understand something. But after a little change because there is another group guide, who speaks English and that is too strong! We think it is a former Vietcong soldier, and is so taken by the memories of the war against the Americans that explains how the group functioned traps man with an anti cynicism and a fervor to thrill .... After drinking a tea, offered by the management of the museum, in a room which is the reconstruction of the dining rooms underground, we are at. End of tour. It returned to Saigon just in time to go to the Reunification Palace (which closes at 14:00). In return we pass by another road, which runs along the river. There is full of shacks, piles in precarious balance, with tin roofs, terraces giving on the banks of a river dirty and smelly. This is the poor area of Saigon. Because if no steps are not you realize how Vietnam can be considered one of the poorest countries in the world ... especially here in Saigon. The Reunification Palace is very interesting especially in the architectural. Today is also special because there is an event with military parades and band. After the tour, always on foot, we move towards the district of Pham Ngu Lao, District of guest-house more economic, but even this area is well kept and orderly. The only thing is that we do not find the restaurant that we wanted. There is a large shopping center under construction. Since it is late (almost 15:00) and we have hunger, we take a taxi and we are lead to another address in the district of Cholon. But that restaurant is closed. But we find another little further on, and a cozy terrace with many plants. The patrons are all Vietnamese. BENE. It is a restaurant in Saigon specialties. The menu is only partly in English (in the sense that the things they did not know they were allowed to translate into Vietnamese) but there are designs that help. It looks a little ', there is also the rice rat ... grilled, or fried in a sauce? Between the lines see the disegnino the scorpion ... that the public are fried! We order rice, noodles, grilled fish (which will be a carp in the river cartoccio better overlook the place of fishing) and a grilled chicken. The chicken in our opinion was not a chicken but probably a pigeon (very good) and Giampaolo me waving in front of the ossicles in the eyes saying "Have you ever seen a chicken with bones so kids?" Vietnamese customers we offer a beer and want to drink with us ALE '! Fumiamo two cigarettes for the wrath of ns. children ... then we are walking towards the path of herbalists. Along the way we stop to visit two Chinese pagodas. The first very good the second a little special ... inside there were two parked motorcycles and even a few people were dining in the temple (??!). The way of herbalists is incredible ... besides the usual herbs, dried mushrooms and various spices, here we also sell huge iguanas in spirit, snakes of all sizes, but also sea horses ... Then Giampaolo sight with a basket of small cockroaches and called blacks "they eat?" The lady, kind, replied that yes, but things are for men ... we laugh ... Then come back to the hotel. Tonight, at the Majestic, there are still Vietnamese most of the past, families with children who, at the bar, 8., But also at the restaurant on the ground floor, are celebrating the pre-Christmas. We go into a room and then change to 6th plan to take an aperitif. Giampaolo had preceded me and, when I arrive on the sixth floor, outside the lift, I can accept a sea of lights, colored stars, music ... CHE BELLO! Tonight there is another marriage and very rich .... There is also a Super-Star singing .... Cameras, cameras, flash that is wasted. The spouses do not sit at the table. Only the guests eat. Also we often do not eat the wedding day but the very spot at the table is always expected. Here is a job. The bride is still changing dress (it is already the third) The second has changed for the exchange of rings. Lunch will already have arrived in the eighth magnitude. When we reach the children, we drink something with them and then decide to go out to dinner! There is a nice restaurant just behind the hotel, very elegant. I eat eel! We also drink a good French wine and dispatched a total of $ 45 (35 euro ..?). The waiter was very professional and spoke English very good. E 'last night in Saigon.
Saigon, the city so modern, classic and elegant with local restaurants and to the West. This city teeming with people so vivid, active, well dressed. People whose smiles emerges a culture multiforme, semi westernized. People who want to communicate .. What a difference between Saigon and Hanoi. In Hanoi will breathe much more air from the communist regime. A Saigon capitalism there is a latent, it can be seen reflected in the windows of the glittering shops of fashion, well-dressed people in modern supermarkets full of products and charcuteries Western-style French. It is also known in families who go to pre-celebrate Christmas with children in the first hotel of their cities, or groups of young Vietnamese we met at the disco-bar, 8. floor of the Majestic. And they will "suffer" in front of the shanty town on the Saigon River channel.
After dinner, go up to the bar 8. Plan to hear "Gloria Gaynor" Vietnamese singing, but when you come to the song. Drink something and go to bed ... wake up early tomorrow morning. We start the tour on the Mekong!

Saigon - Cai Be - Vihn Long - Canh To

5:00 hours: we are awakened by a noise coming from the hellish road! Cars, bicycles, motorbikes ... the city has awakened! Today is Monday. Then, as if it were not enough, someone begins to voices like a political rally and has been going on for over half an hour ... Arrivals from where and what this tells us not just imagine. 9:00: we are on the road to Vihn Long. Morning ns. and our driver. guide (in French so finally understand all) arrived, punctual to a minibus with 11 seats and in us all, we are 6! We have two days to obtain all the information and things that we have not yet understood about Vietnam! The air conditioning I did lower now ... but sometimes the rise in secret .... We are already quite out of Saigon, but the roads are always in perfect condition and the campaign is very orderly .. We have already stopped along the road for a coffee since our guide had to make breakfast ... In that complex of bars and restaurants was also a small zoo and the monkeys in the cage there was little that could pass through the holes in the network ... laughing and joking so I've found on the shoulder! By car we start to chat with our guide. His name Tó Hiep and is likeable. It tells the story of his life. Viet Mihn, born in the Delta Melkong in 1950. Become a teacher and moved to Saigon. In time of war is not fought, because dedicated to teaching. But after reunification, the Government of Hochi Min removed from public positions all employees made by the previous government and in the confines of the Delta to work the fields. After some years of real difficulty, Mr Tó can ragranellare the money to buy a rickshaw, so worked in Saigon for 7 years. The expectations of customers, sitting on his rickshaw, he studied French. Now is the guide for many years! .. Let also to ask him because in Vietnam we have seen so many cats ...? He explains that the cat, unlike the dog, an animal is considered bad, so many Vietnamese do not love him. The Carlotta then immediately wants to know why go to sell, in addition to the tiger balm, balm of the cat! But it remains a mystery! 11:00 arrive the landing of Cai Be where we start with a boat long and tapered, and the four of us driving. The driver will be waiting with the van to Vihn Long! Mekong pass on the first market of Cai Be ... but now it's late and were only a dozen boats stalls! Then descend in a small village on the banks of the Mekong. Here people live in huts very very simple, but the children with their school uniforms, not the air nor suffering nor sad. Speak a little English, you smile. Give them biro-pens that we brought to it. In the village there are workshops of sweets (like mou) and crispy. We follow the various stages of processing. The most interesting is that of the puffed rice ... Put grains of rice in a pot, mixed with black sand from the river and when it reaches the high temperature the grains begin to swell and burst! Then sift through the sand and are ready! Buy a sweet little bit of their production (especially the crunchy of various kinds) and then to a Vietnamese conical hat. Here is less than half of all those seen so far. At 13:40 we stop at a restaurant on the banks of the Mekong really very beautiful. Surely it is only for tourists (we only arrive by boat) but it is surrounded by greenery, with a meadow full of flowers and a view of the Mekong. Even the water of the Mekong now appears blue! Will be a reflection of the time which is amazing. The service leaves a bit to be desired but the food is excellent! E. .. surprise .... We spend 5 euro in four and a half ..? That we arrived in a different reality? Perhaps here we see what their real purchasing power? After lunch we continue the navigation of the Mekong. My family is very happy today because our leadership is much less stressful for me. It should not be in a hurry and often stops for a drink, relax, etc.. Although there is a burning sun, the breeze is felt on ns. boat is more than pleasant. The navigation continues among the picturesque canals of the Mekong, in the midst of nature, islets and huts to palafitte. Every now and meet local boats covered by the markets. We also see many boats carrying something that we feel the seeds ... are the skins of the grains of rice instead of using firewood for cooking. Simple huts in this area are still the most dignified of the ghetto that we saw the other day in Saigon, is also on the inclusion in an almost natural paradise. The ns. boat trip ends at 16:00 on Vihn Long. Landings where there is a market to which we visit today. Incredible! They sell everything from pigs to snakes, and frogs? You kill them in front of the eye then peeled of a stroke and are already ready for sale. Only mice of rice so that I can not see even today. The market is very colorful, fruits, vegetables, spices. On the one hand it opens on the road and the other on the river. Most of the goods and it arrives via the river. We buy the files. The market to Vihn Long dong in 1000 to give me six! (up to now I have always paid 1000 dong each).


Then, after a fresh beer in a bar, starting with the ns. coach who came to take us. We have an hour and a half of road, including the Mekong on the ferry because the only bridge that exists on this side of the Mekong is very backward compared to ns. direction. Cantho come to us and transfer to Hotel Asia, which is not bad. We offer you a drink to ns. carers and give us appointment for tomorrow morning. Cooled fast (ns now. Driving is not more with us then I have to dictate the time!) And then goes out to scour the town of Canhto. We head to the central market but did not find because it is sealed ... (by force, is 19:30) ... then do two steps in the long river. Cantho is a clean town, the river is a modern and enlightened. We do a tour with a rickshaw (in the Delta also have economic rickshaw), then this is motorized and brings to four people! Then try the restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet (which looks the case is the same that we have advised our driver) and at 20:30 we go to eat! The restaurant has a terrace on the first floor long and narrow (trendy Vietnamese) that overlooks the main street. The service is friendly. The snake eat tonight! Even Matthew and Carlotta (stranissimo..) The sample. At the next table is a pair of Italians (third parties that meet throughout the trip). I am of Ancona and are making a long holiday in Asia. Blessed them. As a digestive drink me a nice liquorino based cobra. Then come back to the hotel on foot but it's all dark, everything turned off, everything has been closed! Better tomorrow morning because the alarm was at 6:30.

Can Tho - Floating Markets - Chau Doc

After a fairly miserable breakfast (buffet mega accustomed to the Majestic hotel ...) load the luggage on the minibus that takes us to the landing where we start to visit the floating markets of the area of Cantho. The first market to Cai Rang, at this very lively in the morning. What are the most choreographic yardarms hoisted on the boat, made of cabbage, cucumber, pineapple, tomato or other vegetables. It is an indication, proof illiterate, of what is sold on that boat. Meet the Italians last night (not difficult to meet since the tour are the same for all). Then he made a stop at a village on the banks of the Mekong to produce paper rice ... but we've seen so many of these workshops we say to our. Guide to do ... then that makes him? Brings us by a gentleman (surely Cambodian origins because it is a photocopy of what is on the cover of Lonely Planet Cambodia) that produces distilled rice tipici. Before we show the various stages of production and raw materials, including the tanks, or snakes, GECHI, iguanas, etc ... Later we move to the phase of the tasting! Just as in any wine cellar, bring us a tray with glasses and a couple of appetizers. The drink also Giampaolo (incredible!). And at the end and buy a bottle. Then navigation between ducks and canals surrounded by jungle. The water is very low and we are proceeding very slowly. At 9:30 the boat and our debts. boatman falls in the Mekong melmoso channel to push. I help a little with the remo ... who knows if I have done well? The scene will be repeated anyway. We reach the second market to Phong Dien, rather disappointing, but perhaps now is 10:30 already too late and were only a few boats. The peculiarity of this market, which is defined as one of the most beautiful markets of the Mekong Delta, is to be attended only by rowing boats. Ended the trip by boat, climb on the bus and we head to Chau Doc Along the way we stop to eat in a horrible (but I have no idea that there was a lot more ...) the restaurant was bleak, even a bit dirty, the waiter was sleeping on a hammock in the same room .. The kitchen was not bad ..... except chicken Matthew surely (poor ciccio) had been marinated in Nuoc Mam. (the sauce described at the beginning of the diary).
I stopped in the street to stop the van because the window I saw a frame for a slide that I can not lose! From the bridge over a canal in the Mekong, rather narrow, there is a postcard view: a row of piles in bambú, very high, which seem to be poised on dozens of poles that intersect and disorderly on each terrace colored linen out to dry . The water below us is putrid. The ns. guide explains that the Vietnamese government, (even for matters of hygiene) is taking steps to build housing in different areas, some condominiums for you to transfer the families who still live in these precarious conditions, but also tells us that, at times, the habit to live on the river means that not everyone is willing to relocate. We arrive at the Chau Doc Hotel Thuan Loi at 15:30. The ns. Guide tells us that we can rest up at 16:30, time when we start to climb Mount Sam. Rest? .. that this is news? But no, the ... so we travel to the central market (which closes in the evening otherwise) to buy the last souvenirs. We buy three for our hammocks. garden. Point we return to the hotel and leaving for the Mount Sam. And here I recommend to readers to read the Lonely Planet which says that the climb is strenuous but the descent therefore less people who want to make less effort can climb with the bike ... MOTO? But what bike? Here are steps!
The sunset is not that great because there is a bit foggy, but the panorama of the paddy fields which follow one another until the Cambodian border, it's fantastic! We stop in a Barettini drinking something cool and we enjoy the sunset. Here again we see the Italians yesterday ansimatamente who are chasing after their group, which has already surpassed at least 10 minutes ago. Falling almost in the dark. We visit the temple at the foot of Mount Sam, and then go back to the hotel. With our guide we drink a good bottle of French wine and our salute. driver, because tomorrow we are to take the boat directly here .. We decide to dine at the hotel because the terrace restaurant on the river is really beautiful. The Lonely Planet does not say anything about because they have just built. The service is a bit poor but they are all nice. Giampaolo eats the fried frogs' legs. They are almost like those big chicken! Call Hawaii hotel in Phnom Penh to confirm the arrival of tomorrow and the schedule, so we will take to the pier. Giá .... because we leave tomorrow morning at 7:30 via the Mekong Camgbogia! At dinner we drink a bottle of French wine and at 22:30 we go to bed because tomorrow is the alarm to 5:40!

Chau Doc - Vietnam / Cambodia border

Hours 6:30 breakfast on the Mekong, still floating on the terrace last night. Get off the bridge with all the backpacks on their shoulders has been more challenging than yesterday evening, but we have succeeded. It is very poetic ... The sun has already risen and its golden rays create reflections on calm waters of the Mekong, sometimes interrupted by the passage of dark silhouettes of the boats against stagliate light. The profiles of women with the classic conical hats, leading to their rowing boats, already laden with goods, we will remain so, imprinted in the mind, as I remember the last lunch in Vietnam!
7:00 we start with the barge. Not be the landing immediately, says the ns. driving before there's another program .... Other program? I had requested tickets for the boat that started at 7:30? It goes well ... we look at the channels of Chau Doc Belli, but now we have enough channels. At a certain point but we arrive in the area where there are the floating houses (as in Cat Ba), but this time on the river. Very interesting. There are also some very beautiful homes. Some, he says Tó Hiep, also rented rooms to tourists. BELLO! We take almost a whole roll of slides. Also witnessing the spectacle of fishing. Have the structures in the river, formed by two large networks connected by a wooden beam 3-4 meters long and appearing as a seesaw anchored at the center. Go back to walk the line until, over the central point, a network shall enter the water and the other side shows the second (with the fish inside). With a screen and collect the fish, after a few minutes, repeat the operation in turn.
Lead us then to visit the "fish farms" with attached "factories" of the feed. Large houseboats are in the middle with a system of large tanks containing fish of all kinds. Then on the side have to cook cauldrons, a fire (fueled by rice husks that we saw yesterday!), A mixture of the remains of fish up to become a compact mush.
But the morning tour does not end here ... (when we leave ???). Then we go to visit a Cham village, a small ethnic group originating in Indonesia, Muslim. At 9:00, finally, we take the boat to Cambodia. It is practically a boat like that of yesterday only that on this we are 25 .. Our salute. guide and depart. We have not understood that a large of this transfer system ... seems that we have entered into a group of tourists from some agency (there are also Italians yesterday) that are transported to the border Vietnam / Cambodia then take the boat that goes to Phnm Penh. It is not in all cases, the direct ferry and perhaps it was better if we had proceeded directly to the purchase of tickets, as we usually do. The surprises did not slow in coming. The tizia, which seems to be the leadership of this group of tourists, asks us the passport and $ 25 a head for approval. I protest because I am sure that I am asking too much (the Cambodian government have sent me an e-mail before leaving, which showed a figure of $ 20). Let me also see the copy but she says that is impossible. Anyway I m'impunto and say that the citations do them all! After three hours of slow browsing, we arrive at the border control post last Vietnamese. Here we say that we have an hour to eat. Luckily there is a place to rest on the boat because there was no service, and we're dying of thirst. I ask where are the visa and I answered them that are on the yellow boat that arrives. Eat quiet and spend the last Dong! At 13:00 there are signs of getting on the boat. Anchored there is two. We go where salt most people (even on the boat because salt does not yellow and does anyone even a little pain ...). Recently we started controlling the tickets and tell us that is not the right boat, we had to take the other one (the yellow) ... They could not check the first ticket? Ma .. NO PROBLEM! ... the Cambodian border we can get off and wait for the other boat. Both are standing for all visas. Yeah, us and we have yet seen them .... Down with luggage and then Bagaglino and I go to the offices for visas, but visas are here! Here is just the endorsement! GOOD! ... and where you are? CHIARO ... where we were first to eat.
Immediately understand the Vietnamese tizia was vindicated! It is terrible. Now that you? Customs officers questioned the Cambodian air quite worried. NO PROBLEM ... moto-taxi ONE DOLLAR! Not having much time to lose, to scream to warn Carlotta dad (who is on the pier with the luggage) I went in motion to make the visa and to do something to wait for the boat ...
Race in motion on a path off to the Customs office (which was right next to the restaurant where we ate). Meanwhile, think about what I could do that if I were to meet befana but in fact not even his fault ... It is the agency that made me this trick! Sin .... Because until now it had proved its worth!
In any case, after a short time, with the same bike, I return back radiant - with ns. Viewed at $ 20 each!
The yellow boat is still there awaiting us ... a little break but we have seen worse.
We do endorse the visa and depart. WE ARE IN CAMBODIA!