BORRACHO DE L'ISLA GRANDE

Cuba is undoubtedly beautiful, charming, rich in scenery breath-taking, city characteristics, the contradictions within the limits of irony, a sea of incredibly beautiful, even if people say the most beautiful in the world probably has never seen the Amalfi Coast or parts of the coastline of Sardinia, Cuba hits you with the rhythms Salsero, Find the music, with the ladies sitting on the huge door to smoke a cigar, with his great hope, with the tremendous warmth, hospitality with an unmatched, with his art dell'arrangiarsi, with its colorful houses in ruins but with his car at Happy Days, with its countless posters recalling the revolution, the national heroes, the fatherland, patriotism, all'antiamericanismo, survival against the embargo ...
But Cuba I came to the heart, no, because Cuba is also on socialism, which I feel so much a capitalist in disguise, but visceral in the cost of services, in macchinoni and Mercedes dealers in the neighborhoods of the rich to make the level of social and equality for all, anti-vaunted American outside an Adidas store in all'occidentale nightclubs, with a selection.
Cuba I was especially disappointed in the people, people who tend to want to say subtly and ambiguously, to take advantage and squeeze tourists, mask the need for money from friends, disguises the scam of counterfeit cigars or the committee bring in around shops and restaurants, by sympathy.
Are not all so careful to do all the eggs in one basket is always wrong, but my feeling after 21 days was to always have star sull'allerta on chivalà on they can not trust anyone, be careful on the blow the portfolio as soon as the wall of mistrust and distance was only a minute down to allow for a conversation that was really friendly, with no double ends, double play, double intentions.
The stress generated at all, stress has been transformed into tension, the tension in aversion, the aversion in an absolute limit to enjoy a full vacation, and a warmth which fortunately still survives as a bastion, in many people not still subject to the myth of the designer and the social structure gradually go up from that, along with pedophiles and sad 50enni senz'anima we happily exported to the face and with the U.S. embargo ...

 

La Habana and Playa del Este

It finally arrived on the long-awaited, has come the 5th of November, came after 11 hours of flight time to tap Cuba
Destination and dreamed for a long time, fascinating for its history, its traditions, for its culture, and for being one of the last bastions social-communists in the world, at least I thought so ...

Landed at about 22 at the José Martí International airport dell'Havana, inebriated dall'afa us that makes us forget the 15 degree roman subivamo that only a few hours before, the thought el'eccitamento but are now off dall'estenuante row control immigration, as excessive body meticulous, there dwells so, needlessly at an officer who looks the picture, it is concerned, then we scrutinize carefully, then begins to turn a Catervo of useless questions like: "what is your name? "," where he lives? "," because it is in Cuba? "," what remains? "," where he sleeps? "...
And thank goodness that the Lonely Placeta found the experience "exciting", I call ridiculous to say the least ...
Just outside is a taxi that will take us for 25 Euros (it would be half enough, but the "only" the principle is a must, and unfortunately will not be the last) to the particular house that we have already reserved via email to time, began our Cuban adventure ...

HAVANA
The first house located in a particular dell'Havana Center is a lady named Martha, gentle, affable, insightful. We arrive late and then renounce to exploit the night, preferring to dispose of 6 hours of time that separate us from the motherland.
The day we armiamo backpacks, camera and water, and map in hand we devote the day to shoot for the "capital of all Cubans" reads like a sign affixed to the streets.
Centro Havana, el Malecon (the seafront), El Capitolio, Havana Veja, veja Plaza, Plaza de Armas, Plaza de la Catedral, Chinatown (which eye! Chinese has not even a shadow because they are all gone away with the advent of socialism and the impossibility of developing private activities). Havana is a real monument in the open air, all is history, everything is beautiful, pity that, apart from the Havana Veja, non curanza makes barracks housing than in any Western country would be used as museums and would honor these neighborhoods, now abandoned to be little more than dirty suburbs and malconce.
Throughout the trip we target the phenomenon defined as "jinetera", dozens of people attempting to approach, friendly but with an eye to our pockets full of dollaroni by tourists, and of course sooner or later fall in the network. He is called Adrian, 24 years, says of working at the factory of cigars that today, Sunday, is closed, offers to accompany us around, we only show places that perhaps we would not have found, is gentle, he speaks a little Italian, is available to answer my curiosity, perhaps before a mojto. We sit, we order 3, for twice, the final price 24 euro, blow! We decide to eat something, takes us into a rather squalid sandwich, a guy tries to barter his hat type "that" two sandwiches and two beers 11 Euros, Azzo! Is not over for the afternoon show is available to us to visit the house of music, the place is fascinating, the sauce played live also, that sin is followed by the spouse, 20 euro in total to get all the blow is complete.
Let us return to our home rather broken, Cuba, at least for now (but find out later, throughout the trip) is expensive as Rome. For the evening we do not lose heart, from my searches on the Internet for months, I have the touch of a private driver, Ernesto us to take the house and leads us in a bad, Il Caffe singer, live music, salsa , Raggaeton, the most popular music among young Cubans, a mix of reggae and salsa played electronically, it is the business progresses.

On the second day in Havana is by the sea, with Ernesto we Playa Europe, the most popular beach near the capital, the sea is spectacular, it burns and hear the chatter of too many Italians, at least for my tastes ... For the evening we have a restaurant, Chan Po li, the Chinese quarter, lobster 5 euro, not bad really, and the after Ernesto us in a street full of local authorities in the area of Vedado, the modern part of ' Havana, one made of large hotel, tourism and thus most modern discotheques.

The Havana disappoint us, not for appearance but for the chaos and cost, we decide to abandon it, the focus still the last day before leaving, now it's time to change the coast, take a bus there Viazul scorterà south towards Cianfuegos ...

Cienfuegos

CIENFUEGOS
I state, I will be part of this section because Cienfuegos I remained in my heart, beautiful place, the city, the sea a few steps, just as the nearby mountains, the friendly people, the quiet of a town not too beaten by tourism, I is to ask why?, all ready to run in Varadero, the apotheosis of the commercial, the anti-Cuba, and jumps in my opinion one of the most beautiful of the island, the mystery of mass tourism ...

From trusty Lonely planet choose the first reported case specifically, Armando y Eleonor, the place is really nice, they are nice and friendly people, devoted to socialism as appears from the countless photos of the lider maximo hung everywhere, so I will have to do two chat to confirm the confidence in a system of government that seems to overcome us, but that seems like someone again, and not a little. The evening to do two jumps go to the nearby "El Benny", the local financial year, there's few people, so little fun.

The second day we dedicate to the sea, Rancho Luna is only 10 km, the beaches are beautiful, fine sand and clear sea with countless gradations, beautiful backdrop, straw umbrellas under which lying is a little paradise.
In the evening local change, we go to the disco Alte, finally reasoning, outdoors, wide, salsa live, many young people, have fun, very ...

For the third day through a friend of Eleonor find a private driver who takes us to the nearby Santa Clara, a city monument dedicated to Chè. The journey is an ordeal, a 127 crammed into every hole arranca and off, is a rare situation in Cuba, where the scheme requires a machine for life, creating that great museum of vintage cars, particularly Crysler turn you see every day on the streets. Somehow we arrive, we visit the mausoleum dedicated to Chè, the tomb, and then a tour in the central square, Plaza Vidal.
At around 15 we are at home again, for it to take a walk up to Punta Gorda, 3 miles and 3 to go back, it's exhausting but beautiful, but I spent the afternoon. In the evening after dinner once we get plenty of bed for a nap in the pre-exit, we forget to set the alarm, and of course fall into lethargy, the night is gone ...

We are now the 4th day here, the last, unfortunately, probably a record as the visitor on average there are pauses and no one night, from Lonely Planet and the friends decide to make a rather unusual trip for 50 euros by divide by two I have to bring Ninchi, a lake located on the central mountains, the boat will escort the body of water sull'immenso deployed to a length between waterfalls and dense vegetation, before we stop at a beautiful waterfall where you can swim Then at the mouth of the Rio Negro and then to real Ninchi, a walk on the hills, between vegetation and small villages where we come Watched as ufo, reaching yet another waterfall, you can also opt for the horse, for those who obviously knows lead, should the rest because of the very bumpy road and the length of the route. We are not lucky with the weather, and when the sun is covered, sometimes the sky drops fast but interest roar of rain, and the sultry temperature falls rapidly, forcing the capes.
On the way back home we are exhausted, it's afternoon, we make the knowledge of the latest home flatmate particularly after two Italians, two French, two British, Hanna and Dotty are Dutch, is the gathering of the European Union. In any case we remain sympathetic to one another, the evening we go along with the "Cote d'Azur" where dancers perform in typical Caribbean dances, and we agree with the girl for a ride after their car hire, destination Trinidad.

Trinidad

Trinidad
We arrive in Trinidad in the afternoon, we find a house all 4 together, and decide to visit just one of the most sought after touring the world, and soon understand why. If you are looking for a typical small town in the Spanish colonial style, perfectly preserved, fascinating and provocative, you're in the right place, Trinidad catch you, its streets in continuous ascent and descent lap really typical scenarios, the houses are well preserved in the central part, and colorful lively, and people are very friendly, available to a smile, a picture or why not a chat. The house music of Trinidad for the evening is spread belief in one of the most evocative lease I have ever seen, the charm of the place, with the background rhythms of Find (a typical Cuban music), call at par, or nearly the emotions that could arouse the Spanish Steps in the mountains one evening capitolina, and to put a Roman doc like me it means you need to trust.

The day after Hanna and Dotty leave us, their time in Cuba is ended, and I will take advantage Aleksij for a quick tour pro shops in town, buy a flag's great, a disposable camera, the art of barter exchange leads me to two sweaters and a dress for a box of Coibha siglo 6 of 25 cigars, and 3 boxes of Romeo Y Giuliet 5, maybe I made a bargain or maybe not, I am not expert on cigars, but the pack in where are you beautiful, and furniture will be an excellent gift for the return, and then Trinidad is the capital of the production of traditional Cuban cigars, and where if not here to buy.
The day proceeds with the sea, Playa Ancon is quite close, the sea is beautiful, but very touristic place, which results in expensive, a little water 1.50 euro ... The evening provides probably one of the most beautiful and special I have ever seen, the place is called "hard Ayala" but is known by all as "la Cueva" (the cave), the name is not a case, the disc is approximately 30 meters below ground in a cave wilderness, where the sultriness is excessive but see something similar around that is more unique rare.

Let's have a day in Trinidad, we decide to change the beach, we are lead to a cut strip of sand between km of rock, the place is called "diente de Perro", I had found in a forum during my research, and I must say that we are not mistaken. E 'peaceful, we will be at most 7 out of every 30 meters of beach, the backgrounds are really beautiful, the reef invites a long, fun baths, sighted a few moray is the best place to snorkelling that I have come so far. For the evening we decide to try a paladar, one chosen by Lonely closed stumbled into another, sinister and imboscatissimo, but probably where I eat the best fish and lobster the best holiday of all, sometimes the fate helps us proceed with a ... quiet evening at home listening to salsa music and then to bed, the party soon after bus and the journey will be long, destination Holguin.

Holguin

Holguin

About 6 hours to reach a destination, Holguin is probably the city I knew best of all, which I accepted willingly or not well for 5 days where I leave a friend with endless knowledge, and I did enjoy some aspects for some Cuban reality really.
The wealth of parks and squares is the central feature of this location east of Cuba, we are on the first day to visit them all, parque Cespedes, Garcia Callisto parque, parque Marqueda and Peralta. Turning stumbled into what, as I said pocansi become perhaps one of the few people who will remember this trip. He named Jorge Luis, but everyone is called Padilla, his surname, dancer, 28enne, happy to live in Cuba, his country, unhappy with a scheme which allows him to express his ideas, to travel, and why not to live a little more dignity. It is hereby declared to be a fan now of the Italians (especially Pausini, poor us!) And as such, places and shows us how we typically Cuban says only that we would never understand, told me to learn how to live this way because only Cuban You can save enormously. On this trail of savings shows a pair of paladar where you pay in Cuban pesos (one is called "the Mandraguegna" close to the Parque Garcia, the central square of the city), and the story changes, we eat in 3 130 pesos (not even 5 euros), teaches us the art of barter, the ability to move with the means they use them, bicitaxi, the rides, trucks, local buses, with a saving nothing short of dramatic. Invites us to his house, a house inspired by so many friends who enter and leave at will in Cuban style, the warmth and joy in the house dancing, singing, listening to music, chatting, we consider now friends, comrades, is a strange, different, beautiful. Another knowledge deserves the attention of the afternoon, sitting quietly in a bar I find myself engaged in conversation with a German, and soon understand all too well his intentions, is called Titus, 45 years at least, well, loves to stay here for 5 6 months or a year, saying that starts with the women is not a problem for tourists, but that the real problem is that for some years now, though, "unfortunately, there is a pecking with a minor, fifteen or sixteen years, if not smaller, big risks, even the jail, I seem to be in the video transmission Iene the view some time before, exposing two pedophiles in Southeast Asia, I would be inclined to break a chair in the head but I brake and I decide to go away, I have seen many scenes of this kind up to here, convince me that the god money can not be beaten, and that people like this infamous existed, exists and will exist forever, unfortunately ...
And 'now the late afternoon we decide to pull the plug for a moment, back at home and riverderci with our new companion to them for a few hours in the evening disco. The disk in fact is called "Cristal" is not bad, although too western, people dancing, singing, drinking and you know ...

For the second day Padilla leads us to a beach, playa blanca, for Cubans around the nearby Guardalavaca, another shrine of tourism worldwide, and returning shows us the feast of the local Frey in honor of Saint Lucia, the rides, to say the least pre-generate our laughter, security systems are practically zero, we take advantage Spizzico for all the banquets where the pizza, where the sandwiches with pork, peanuts where ...

We are already ready to go tomorrow to Santiago bus, believed to leave permanently Holguin and do not know that we still come back two days to be with our new friends, and because the bottom arrived in Santiago there is really nothing more important to know Cuba

Santiago de Cuba and Holguin

SANTIAGO

If you ask a havanero what you think of Santiago, will meet or nearly the worst, if you ask a santiaguero think that will do the same dell'Havana;'re not running good blood between the two major Cuban cities, including a chat and the other coming to discover that the rivalry is not only sports, two baseball teams are the most important of these two goals, but it's just a matter of prestige one on.
From like me had to be painted Santiago and has revealed that, charming, for sure I liked most of the capital, but also dangerous, and here I can dispel the myth, it is nothing more nor less risky of the other cities of the island, the center bustles with the police that is, excess of tranquility.
Exit the station and resisted the first assault of procurers business, with all available homes for any particular taste and needs, we rely inevitably to a private driver, a certain Enrique, exchange gossip with what it claims to be a professor of mathematics at university, and that brings us to the house of a particular friend, the owner, Mrs Maria is very friendly and available, with a cagnetto that only Zompo him at all in search of game, we decide to stay.
We dedicate the first day to wander through the center, Parque Cespedes, Plaza Dolores, Plaza Mars, the Plaza Revolucion, the huge Moncada barracks, Spizzico around and the evening dinner at home. After dinner ready to go out there see Enrique check directly with 3 girls, says his students, has already arranged everything, asks us to choose what we like, everything there seems nothing short of incredible, we are not yet well entered in Cuba but here it looks normal that the tourist explicitly care of you spend the night as to the best of his chances, especially economic ...
Leads us in a bar not to mention some fun or beauty, of course we pay for all, including professor and one that will become his wife, 30 euro more food, we ricascati ...

The day after Enrique after leaving the girls in our house for good now with the intention of returning them to an hour to go to sea, it gives us one of the most stratospheric hole of history, we are playing dominoes with two of girls, savoring what, along with chess is one of the favorite pastimes of the Cubans. At 16, not more and we can decide to make a turn, virtually replicating the streets the day before.
In the evening, turning to the streets across Padilla and a friend that we have come to find, with the intent to return to Holguin, spend the evening with them at the Irish club, pubbetto with pool table, very quiet, very Cuban, to convince us go back a few days just to Holguin, and returning home, lead us to the house of a childhood friend of our friend. Taste on Saturday of the true Cubans, home, music, fried plantains, hospitality as I had never seen before and rum, rum, rum ...

Holguin

For the return journey of course we set the economic means, we are now at the end, even the funds available before a truck that is red-hot plate under the sun, then a local bus where some people vomit through the window due to a excess rum morning, those who eat rice, and who falls ACCHIAPPA a soup on the fly from a house on the street, split it with the driver, all of course mixed with the countless times that the bus goes haywire and you repair it, is a journey of hell, but now is told what really is the life of Cubans every day.
Nothing particularly important to tell about two days longer to Holguin, simply wrong times we simply return the opportunity to visit Camaguey, which they say is nice, take a bus Viazul in 13 hours that brings us directly in Havana, where we arrived at 3 am for the last days of Cuba.