Discovering Cuba, a poor but beautiful island

Exploring Cuba from Havana to the beautiful colored Trinidad, from the beaches of Cayo Coco Holguin to those from the ancient wild Baracoa Santiago de Cuba, the legendary Santa Clara to Varadero tourist. An island of a thousand splendid colors ... .. with an ancient history .. very poor but rich in beautiful beaches .. of friendly people and excellent cuisine.

 

Italiy > Cuba

X many years I have always dismissed Cuba as a destination xi my travels because it is too obvious then last year talking with people who had visited girandosela themselves far and wide looking as something more, I am convinced that perhaps worth it to go and they did.
I left Saturday, January 10, from Bologna with a friend. Iberia flight with a stopover in Madrid (? 750.00 booked about agency) and arrive in the evening at The Habana. From the airport we took a taxi ($ 18.00) for the Deauville Hotel (nice, clean, with swimming pool and in an excellent position for visiting the city) on the Malecon (the famous promenade de L'Habana)
The hotel I had booked on the Internet (www.octopustravel.com) for four nights or as long as we stay there due to waiting for our other friend.

Habana

Sunday 11 and Monday we spent 12 Browsing through the streets of the city, visiting popular places such as Plaza de la Revolucion, the capitol, the cathedral and the famous Boteguita the Middle and the famous Floridita .. etc.. and also we were the bus station near the Plaza de la Revolution, to inform us on schedules and costs x move around the island (we discarded the idea of renting a car after he saw as driving!)
One consideration: avoiding to pass through the infamous neighborhoods, the city can be run very well all on foot as we did? However, attention to children who are trying to do the kind and nice but then actually trying to cheat us try to convince you to change U.S. dollars or Euro, even better, that are worth more with their money impersonating x convertible pesos but does not actually worthless! Changed only in the bank! U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere American convertible pesos that have the same value ($ 1 = 1 weight convertible) but today I read in a newspaper that Castro said in November that the U.S. dollar no longer circulate in Cuba and there will be only the weight convertible. There are banks everywhere where you can withdraw cash using your credit card. If you want a little 'for local currency change only a dollar or two in Cuban pesos (I seem to remember that a dollar is 25 pesos) as we did not but then you will almost never use it except in some remote village ( we only used them to buy in the streets around the "hands" or roasted peanuts that you sell in small cones of paper - very good!)
Returning to our journey, one of the two evenings we dined in clubs in the area dell'Habana Vieja, Cafe Paris, nothing exceptional but nice, economic and food was very good (fried chicken with fried platano $ 5) and then we went with a taxi to the Castillo del Morro to see the Museo del "Che" (quite interesting .. with several items that belonged to Che and also many beautiful photos) ex assist the representation of Cannonazo (nothing exceptional).

A VISIT TO VARADERO...

13 Tuesday morning we came to take at a taxista José (contracted the day before at the bus station) and took us in Varadero (about an hour and a half to two travel) x $ 30 roundtrip .
We were a little 'on the beach (very beautiful) but it was very cold in those days and so we have to walk x benefited the center and see some' place, hotels, the bus station, the marketplace of souvenirs, etc. . because our intention was then to return x number of days at the end of vacation. We have a pizza lunch with a $ 4 + $ 0.50 water. 16.30 punctual is back to take our taxi driver (obviously not in good standing but honest) and we split the x Habana.
In the evening (with José) airport we went to our friend ($ 20 round trip) and together we have contracted with us to take x Josè by him around the whole island in the days following instead of going by bus.
We made to leave the hotel and we were gathering for the morning to 8.00 per begin the journey itself.

Departure x Trinidad

The next morning we see without even get a scholarship and what seems strange. After a while? fact explains that he has thought well and we can not at this price because we do not earn them anything because the car he uses at the moment is to hire as his is no impact (as we shall see later?) and therefore has many costs more.
At first it tells us that brings us up to Trinidad but then we manage to convince him to come with us throughout the trip slightly raising the price on the night before but still advantageous to us, or $ 900 x 13 days including gasoline.
Finally we agreed the price of a house where his girlfriend lived at the time to give him a way to take a while? of x things to do travel and gasoline.
Here the whole family know you and we can also see his car in closed garage and decidedly badly reduced following an accident that took the previous week at night because of? Crossing a dog (of course he was going to speed crazy!)
During the trip we realized that renting a car with Jose included was a good idea because the roads, not always in good condition, were full of tractors, carts, people walking dogs and crossed all the time, not mention the fact that everyone driving like mad, in ways imprudent speed and insane.
In addition we also had some major technical problems that Jose was very helpful.
The first of these has happened now, when just left the city we are on the motorway and go after a few kilometers there is a tire exploded! Fantastic?. Fortunately the road was deserted and we were able to stop along side of it without a beat anywhere.
Then we changed the wheel but the escort was the worst mass? Other fact on one side had a sort of bubble that seemed to explode at any moment all? More!
A low speed and making a lot of attention to the holes we have carried for several kilometers until we finally found a distributor with workshop where we have replaced one of the tires.
Finally we are divided and then stop along the only road in the beautiful town of Cianfuegos to take some photos in the main square really very beautiful.
Once in Trinidad we had our first impact with the particular case (where it was our intention to stay for x throughout the journey to be a little 'more in touch with the real Cuba) and was excellent. We found the spot from "Margarita," a house not far from the center with the ground floor of their home on the first floor and two double rooms for rent with a bathroom and a dining room in town and a nice terrace where you can admire the sunset ($ 40 x 2 nights half board).
Almost all of the particular case in which we stayed had a similar structure because they can rent places to sleep x at most four people and all the breakfast and dinner were cooked under a house and then brought them over in our dining room before from their machines.
Arranged things in the room we just came down and began to wander the beautiful streets x of the center to the main square where we remained until sunset to admire and photograph this small, beautiful city full of color with the facades of the houses in all colors different from each other. Dinner at home by Margarita, really good and plentiful, and then another walk downtown and stop in a bar for a mojito taste very good ($ 2.00).

Trinidad and Playa Ancon

The next day, Thursday January 15, we spent in beautiful Playa Ancon, a few kilometers from Trinidad where we could finally get some? sun. The beach is quite wide and long and there are many hotels and vendors. From one of them I took a pizzette x pretty good lunch for $ 0.50.
The evening after? Other delicious and abundant dinner we made a trip back downtown, we heard some? music then we went to bed early because the next day we would be starting very soon due to move from x shares of Moron then starting from x go and see Cayo Coco. After a while? who slept Margarita came to wake up saying that c? José was that he needed to talk. At first we did not understand all the talk that has made us for luck then took a girl who was with him (x fortuna che se l? Intortata was during the evening!) Jsela, who spoke a little? of Italian as a Cuban, but now married to a Swiss and with relatives in Italy and told us her best.
José was almost immediately return to Santa Clara, where he lived for a personal problem related to his home and the second ex-wife, but that would be returned in the morning, so the problem was that we would not be able to leave early as planned but a little? later depending on the time that were missed in the offices of Santa Clara. Whether we want to do. Ok .. patience?

Moron

The morning after we finally managed to lots x Moron followed closely by the mother Jsela and also direct them to (some days were in Trinidad to find relatives and now returned home).
Arrived in Moroni, we spent the whole afternoon at the home of José and Jsela while the sister of Jsela have turned the city in search of a home for us. This is a clear demonstration of their kindness and hospitality. At the end there is no particular case or free large enough to house all three together and we had to opt for a hotel where the state gave us a huge room with four beds to a square and a half but not very clean ($ 40 a head x 2 nights ). Dinner and breakfast the next day at home agreed to Jsela x $ 10 a head (although something must also earn them or not!). Jsela After dinner we had brought in a disco all? Open which I do not remember the name. Unfortunately we did not have his passport back and then did not want us to come but then Jsela and some of his friends have provided to us and we revenue (d ticket? Entry $ 1.00). C? Was a lot of people and it was interesting because obviously there? Was not a tourist but was a beastly cold so we decided to warm a little? with rum. We almost teetotalers, we took a bottle of rum and a couple of cans of coke ($ 2 in all!) And we have made 3 rum and coke, but still cold so we ended up across the drain bottle. In the end we had so much cold but they turned us a little? heads and Melissa and Cristina were also evil! .

Cayo Coco

The next day brought us Jsela drive to Cayo Coco, the only reason for our stop in Moron. Cayo Coco is an island connected to the mainland by a long road built in the middle of the sea where the Cubans have no access. Jsela is Cuban but lives in Switzerland and the Swiss passport have no problem to pass. José rather obviously would not be able to enter but Jsela (un po 'pazza crazy and give us a straight line) wanted to take it with you just before the place of the control block where the documents we have hidden in the luggage racks in our backpacks and towels from the sea! It was not a very smart thing to do because if we had discovered would be big trouble for them especially because tourists are sacred but they are punished severely, but is also not right that the Cubans can not be free to go on ' island in fact has always been part of Cuba and then to their homeland, so we have to rebel, and so we did our justice.
In this way José could see a very nice place that otherwise would not have ever seen.
The island is full of resorts and luxury hotels extra but there is definitely a nice public beach and we have stopped there all day. Before going back on land we have entered a hotel to look a little 'and then we shared at full speed as usual. Climb in the car with Jsela is how to make a formula one race! I think I lost a kilo for the tension! On the way back to Moron we stopped in a bakery and we made some pasta? Truly delicious! ($ 0.30). Dinner again at the home of Jsela and then we went to look for a place to take an ice cream that miraculously gave us José and we enjoy sitting at the famous Gallo (a statue) Moron.

Houlguin

The following day, or Sunday we started at dawn. Destination Houlguin where we arrived in late morning.
José had knowledge of the course here and with them we have long sought a casa particular free but the whole city was full of tourists because of their remarkable surroundings with the beautiful beaches of Playa Pesquero Guardalavaca and so here we had to opt for a hotel and we chose the Hotel Pernik ($ 38 a head x 2 nights) The rooms were large and clean but rather vecchiotte but the place we liked and we left because the hotel had a swimming pool.
José has found a room in the house of lords who have helped us find accommodation and we have agreed with their breakfast and dinner.
The afternoon we spent some 'in the pool where he also came José, sad for having to leave Jsela and then some' around the center of the city. Dinner excellent as always based cutlets milanese with all the trimmings and dessert ($ 8).

Playa Guardalavaca

Monday morning we were directed to explore the beaches of the area and we stopped in the area of Playa Guardalavaca where we spent the whole day to bask in the sun and walking along the shore. For lunch I Melissa and we went to eat a pizza in a pizzeria nearby (pizza coca + $ 1). In the evening we dined again in the particular house the day before and then we did a tour in the center with Jose.

BARACOA

Tuesday morning, always good-now we are divided at a time of Baracoa and along the road we immediately noticed the change in the landscape. More leads us to the south because the vegetation was growing wild, incredibly green and lush and also was always hotter. Finally!
The road to reach Baracoa is pretty devastated but eventually we did.
The first thing that strikes you when you are about to come into town is the smell that's in the factory due to the cocoa.
Truly delicious. Baracoa is quite large but more than a city call a village because there are tall buildings but simple two-storey houses, in many cases quite old and malconce, but with considerable charm.
In a hotel Houlguin had met two Italians who have advised us to go to sleep by Denny and fortunately we had because we are really good. Their house is new and very well kept, clean and treated in detail. We had at our disposal throughout the first floor of his house, practically an apartment with two bedrooms, bathroom and a large living room with a large and modern refrigerator and TV, two rocking chairs, a sofa and a long table dining room with chairs, also had a beautiful terrace on the road from where he fell to the ground floor via a spiral staircase and a beautiful and huge roof terrace where there were a table, chairs and deckchairs, a straw umbrella at the center and wire draw from their clothes. Also in this course accessible via a spiral staircase accessible from the back of the house.
Each time the light went away for a few hours but there was no problem because Denny gave us a big pile lamps.
Denny and his wife are the people friendly and very available and also cook really from God, prawns, lobsters, always an infinite number of side dishes including a local tuber similar to potato very good and of course the usual soup of beans that they were truly excellent and unsurpassed chicharritas! (Platano cut into thin slices and fried taste similar to potato chips, but even more good)!.
The first day we wander around the country and we went to a bercé hot chocolate ($ 0.30) in a famous and also reported on the rails but honestly I never drank one chocolate worse than from any other party! Baracoa since then to take the phone so I decided to call my mother from a public phone to charge. We bought something to eat in a market and the "hands" from a vendor (the "hands" are sold roasted peanuts in paper cones already peeled).
We spent three days from Denny stupendi, we have seen the beaches of the area between here Manger Playa, Playa Playa Duabi and Maguana, we were told to be the most beautiful beaches in Cuba but in reality we are not liked so much as it is very wild, small and very dirty, and maybe there was more influenced by the fact that it was not very nice time and the beaches were deserted, but overall we were very well and we relaxed a little 'before resuming our long journey the discovery of Cuba On Thursday we did a first ride in the car with Jose to find other beaches in the end on the advice of a girl to whom we gave a ride we arrived at Porto Santo, where for $ 3, we were able to take advantage of sunbeds and swimming pool. In the evening we paid the bill with Denny about $ 70 a head for three days on half board including drinks.

Santiago de Cuba

Friday at 23 as usual because we are divided, this time to Santiago de Cuba on the far south west tip of the country. Immediately after leaving Baracoa, the road climbs up the mountains from which you can see really beautiful landscapes, and then back down as you go along the coast, the landscape changes again and becomes ever more barren especially near Guantanamo. After several hours of travel we finally arrived in Santiago and have tried just a place to sleep and did not want to waste time we stopped in the first available even though it was not the best. Even here we had a whole apartment at our disposal but decidedly different from that of Baracoa. Here we were on the ground floor in an old suburb of the city, the entrance leading to a long corridor on which overlooked two bedrooms sharing a bathroom and kitchen. The door and window were the only side of the whole house apart from a tiny window in the kitchen. The place was very dark and sad, but apart from the kitchen that was not the best the rest seemed pretty clean so we were satisfied. The lady of the house is not lived there then told us that if we wanted but would have to prepare dinner and breakfast, the price was good so we accepted. Melissa and Chris took a room and I the other alone.
In the afternoon we passed the curiosity about the ways of the city, admiring the beautiful central square and cathedral. We even managed, in a moment of distraction of the goalkeeper to come to the Hotel Casa Granda. Here we have taken a look at fast and then we strung up the stairs to the roof terrace where you could admire the entire city.
Santiago is a very old city and the population is mixed and generally much darker skinned, possibly because of the substantial importation of slaves, as the whole south is also evident in the increased poverty of the people and I must say here that apart from some suburbs dell'Habana was the only place where we felt safe at all turn on their own. Back in our home sad x we prepared the evening and we waited for our lady of the house for dinner at the end there was nothing, therefore, satisfied for the evening after we said we wanted to pizza and so we dined outside. After dinner we went to take a trip downtown even if we felt very safe to run for the city at night and especially in the area where there was our house because less crowded and more dark. But we arrived to the square of the Cathedral, but we left a lot because most of us called and tried to attack button so we shell and we went to sleep.

Santiago de Cuba

Il giorno seguente dopo la colazione preparata sempre dalla nostra padrona di casa ci siamo trovate con José e ci siamo fatte portare alla spiaggia di Santiago. Appena arrivate era quasi deserta, abbiamo preso i lettini e fatto un giretto nei dintorni. La spiaggia è abbastanza lunga ma non molto larga, la sabbia piuttosto scura e il mare abbastanza pulito. In un primo momento non ci è sembrata il massimo ma sempre meglio delle tristi spiagge di Baracoa, ma poi quando si è riempita di italiani stupidi e volgari di ogni età accompagnati da giovani cubane molto socievoli abbiamo subito cambiato idea e rimpianto la solitudine che regnava a Playa Maguana.
Al rientro dalla spiaggia ci siamo fatte accompagnare da José al Castillo El Morro, un antico fortino molto ben conservato dove abbiamo assistito ad una rappresentazione storica in costume e ad uno splendido tramonto.
La sera abbiamo cercato un posto dove si potesse mangiare la pizza ma non abbiamo trovato nulla. Ci siamo persino sedute in un ristorante vicino a casa ma poi dopo aver letto il menù ci siamo alzate di soppiatto e siamo andate via. Alla fine abbiamo cenato in un ristorante del centro, da "Don Antonio" con un'ottima bistecca e patatine fritte.
Abbiamo fatto una passeggiata fino alla piazza della cattedrale piena di gente come al solito e dopo essere rimaste un po' lì sedute ad osservare le persone e i bambini che si divertivano a fare il giro della piazza su una specie di trenino a motore siamo tornate alla nostra abitazione.

SANTA CLARA

The next morning we left very early even skipping lunch because the day before was not the best. E 'come only the husband of the owner to whom we paid the living room and left the keys. After a few hours we stopped in a bar along the road to bercé coffee and breakfast but did not have a great advantage, and after we shared the bathroom, or at least we have tried. In fact, the machine gave no sign of life. Fantastico! Another problem? but this machine is a catorce! Imagining that it was the battery match we tried to start it and pushing it after a few attempts we have finally made it.
The section runs from today was very long and we arrived at their destination, only to Santa Clara in the afternoon.
Before we went to Plaza de la Revolution where stands one of only two statues on Cuba Che standing at the foot of which was opened a museum in his honor. In the same square there is the mausoleum of Che memorial with plaques of the 38 comrades who fell with him in Bolivia and where his remains rest in 1997 when they were repatriated during the thirty years of his death.
Since Santa Clara is the city of José arrived just brought us immediately to see his house which should be very proud. At first we feared that you would accommodate him and we looked orripilante rooms and very sadly sporchissime arredate then luckily we realized that he could not have guests do not have a license as a casa particular and we have drawn a sigh of relief we also made the compliments for the beautiful home, even if it was not for nothing.
After a little stroll 'we managed to find a particular house with two rooms available for $ 10 each. A very modern house very clean and well kept, where the owners also lived with a splendid and huge dog that was terrified Melissa. For the guests there were two very spacious double bedrooms and a bathroom. I was placed in a room with Chris and left the other room x Melissa.
After we had arranged José made a trip to the city and first of all we went to Loma del understand, a small hill from where the famous Che planned the battle of Santa Clara. Now there is a monument and you can admire a splendid panorama of the city from the top. After we were also at the Monument to the armored train located north of the city. Beside the railway still in operation there are a few of the famous wagon train full of ammunition stopped and attacked by the revolutionaries who had divelto the rails with an Loaders, also kept next to the train. Now both have become a national monument and in wagons was even set up a museum but unfortunately today it is Sunday we found closed.
Come back to our rooms we had a shower and we prepared for dinner that was excellent and consists of soup, white rice, shrimp in sauce and chicharritas, all for $ 7. Since today the birthday of Christ was to be a special occasion but unfortunately we have enjoyed these fine delicacies Me and only me because Chris was a little 'off.
After dinner came to take Jose and has led us to the house where his ex-wife has presented us with her new husband and her two children, one male and one female. They were very friendly, we were welcomed with joy even if we were ready to go to bed because the lady was in a nightdress. After staying a while 'there, rather embarrassed because we were seated, but we do not know what to say because we do not know a word of Spanish, finally after what seemed to us an eternity after all hugged and kissed us we are gone and we shared with us was also the daughter of Jose and we go home Mother of José where we again met with warmth, we have to accommodate at home and here we also have a cousin who works secretly Cuban cigars. I had to buy a box for one of my owners, and so after avermene showed different types, I chose a box of Cohiba pagandola $ 25 (to the airport the same box would cost more than 10 times as much!). Obviously we wanted to see how it was to manufacture them so we have taken to the poultry house in silence and showed us how to prepare them and we gave them one by one.
In the end, we welcomed and thanked everyone, we brought home her daughter and we are back in town.

VARADERO

The next morning we had breakfast then we left now to our last stop: Varadero, where we arrived after several hours. Here we have struggled a little 'to find a place to sleep quite Economic particular case there is only hotels and finally we found a place VILLA LA MAR, which is a fairly large hotel with several types of accommodations and a nice big pool. We have arranged from the outside in an adjacent building where there are only in some apartments and shops including a supermarket and we have allocated an apartment with three bedrooms, one single and two doubles, two terraces, a bathroom, lounge with TV and kitchen.
Is certainly not a luxury place to go but more than good for $ 20 a head per day with breakfast seen prices Varadero!
Once housed, we welcomed José and we showed up on Friday evening.
In theory he promised to come and take him to lead us to hope that you do not forget!