"TODA" LA DOMINICANA JUMPING FROM GUAGUA TO GUAGUA

diario di viaggio in
dominican republic
from 9 december 2006 to 1st january 2007
laura di matteo giampaolo (15) carlotta (14) grignan

three weeks and a half in dominican republic. wonderful but melancholia.
forse made a journey in search of an island that there is.
a journey into submission to the people that was tear your land.
in previous centuries from foreign domain,
now from foreign capital.
a journey in a country that we very different.
a journey in a country that has beauties of natural resources and towns that even sun, are fully sufficient to live agiat decina the population of million people that island. but it is not so!
a journey in a country where the difference between rich and poor is huge.
but .... it was a trip! bello, fascinating, special.
accommodations from simple to great resort,
from city to campaigns from mountains to the beach,
merengue and accompanied by an "trago" of rum,
we shot almost all in the dominican guagua!

what we remain in this journey?
belle of the beach Punta Cana, Bayahibe, Sosua, las terrenas fun and the city of Boca Chica.
panoramas of the beautiful Jarabacoa and unspoiled nature of the samana peninsula.
the historical center of santo domingo ... ... ... and the music everywhere!
but we been in is also somewhat sad.
do not forget the sguardi velati melancholy of many children that are probably not even a school.
there scordia shyness the people of simple or easy to close the memory of the dominican ricchi with their grosse and harsh chains of honor the neck.
in our mind will live for several time images of simple wooden cassette without windows and roofs with in sheet metal, as opposed to luxury villas with kilometers twist of barbed wire above the cancellation.
it may sound we still hear notes of kissed, reflecting their sorrow background, and the pace of merengo, allegra façade for tourists.
and we also remains in some of rabies for the fate of a country rich in both the wonders of nature as a disproportionately poor social level. a country where no perception no hope for growth and poverty where it seems to be only to generate other poverty, and prostitution, begging, delinquency.
tourist resorts in infrastructure are virtually all of foreign ownership. not only big resort, as is also conceivable but all the little bar, i supermarkets, restaurants, rooms for rent, rent a car to the agencies that organize tours, stalls, etc ... etc ... mediamente the dominic is just pure labor.
less than a month and too little to understand if the people that has no steps or if that is the government to encourage the foreign post to grow its population. for example with education, with funding for facilities and activities start small.
certain is that this is a country where i live i could never but where, if one day the things change, as i hope, i could back on vacation!

 

Amsterdam – Punta Cana – Cortecito

Wakes up at 7:00, quick breakfast in a hotel in Amsterdam and then train to Schiphol airport. At 9:00 we are already at the airport. Wear only a maglioncino (thank goodness that is not cold) as ns. We have heavy coats left in a hotel in valigione (keep them up to the trip)! I personally have hosiery sandals! We do check in and we start boarding. The plane is delayed by 50 minutes. We drink something in a very nice Pub (myself drinking a double whiskey against the fear the plane) and then we board. The service of Martinair is excellent and the seats are very comfortable. Our route of flight is toward the west, chasing the sun, so now no one sleeps! Lunch (Eastern cuisine) and then Charlotte and I play cards. On the flight are also Dominican. They seem very united because they laugh and joke a lot together. Whether you already know? Whether in a group? Carlotta and I are trying to attack button with the Dominican lady who sits next to us (most prosperous and scollacciata) but without significant results. His friend, there should not even consider. We will see where is the famous kindness and sympathy of the Dominican ... for now, on this plane, the Dominicans there is only a few cute baby. Sovvengo I have read something on a French travel forum, where more than one woman, with her husband Dominican, complained that when they return to their homeland are not treated very well by their fellow countrymen. ... sure that if we go home with the stink in the nose like this .... should perhaps expected! However, since there is to talk of with anyone, we continue to play cards. Then we look "Friend's"! In mid-trip we also lead the snack! And then dinner.
At 16:20 local, after 9 hours of flight, landed in Punta Cana. The landing is quite rough and violent, so that passengers, who were about to start applauding, noise caused by the opening of almost all branches of luggage ..... crashes instantly! And, boy .... you did not deserve the applause! Learn how to land! (NDR, but perhaps it is just what he was doing!)
The airport of Punta Cana is too good! I had never seen an airport so throughout my life. Even in Malé. It is a huge hall, all open, with sloping roofs of straw. So green, flowers, open spaces. There are girls in traditional costume who are photographed with tourists, and also with us. (NDR: We discover later that the girls were in costume for a tour operator who received a group!).
Taxi for Cortecito asks us 25 usd. As the owner via the internet we had indicated the figure of 24 .... I do not think it appropriate to discuss! The music, which at the airport was not there, on the other is well on the taxi!
We arrive with a beastly hot in the Posada de Piedra, inn on the beach with cabanas. We touch on the "cabanas" for the normal rooms are already occupied. The cabanas (we have 3) are huts with thatched roofs, cement floors, two beds (self-propelled), a table, a central light. No glasses, no mosquito nets .... and more, the walls supporting the roof at the top have an opening of about 20 cm. flowing around the room (ventilation system?). The bathroom is outside. As a first contact with the Dominican there is evil .... Even at the level of spending for 30 usd cabanas seem a bit excessive ... however ... now we are here! I ask timidly at the owner (Peruvian) here if there are no insects (?!). And you answer me .. "We are not mica in New York."
I dare not ask instead if there are blacks hairy spiders (the cacate) otherwise I could not sleep for two nights .... We pulled the quick costume fast, and we dive into the blue Caribbean waters of Punta Cana! Not exactly crystal clear in the truth because the sea is a bit rough but with a temperature only! The beauty of this hotel is that you're right on the beach ... if it were not for the structure of the room, it would seem to be in the Maldives.
After the swim, we drink a President (local beer) and chatted a bit with the owner who speaks among other very good Italian because it is lived in Naples for several years. Her husband (not there), however, is Argentine! (NDR: I believed that the ownership of at least this simple hotel was Dominican, but I was wrong). There is also a daughter, Maria, friendly and very talkative! Discarding the backpacks and we do take turns showering. In the bathroom, I seem to hear the noise (which actually came from the cabana next) so I open the door of sottolavello and we find a large turtle (alive? Dead?)? Surely dead (or at least stuffed) because after 2 days. will still be there in the same position. Maybe it will function, who knows?
Around 20:00 we leave to go to dinner. The ATM is right across the street and then decrease. For 250 they give me a nice pack of pesos that are barely in the portfolio ... Meanwhile, we hear someone sing a kissed, but in Italian. The music comes from a restaurant there on the side .... Come on! It's an Italian, Luciano Salerni, former criminal lawyer who lives in the Dominican for several years and sings and writes songs as a hobby! Offers us a drink and we agree to have dinner together tomorrow night, so we are together and sing! Tonight we go to Captain Cook! The Captain Cook is a Spanish restaurant on the beach. We order too many things and we are so tired (we have two in the morning) that we can not eat everything. Then we must also fight to the account for which we are asking 110 usd. But the bill is 3,000 pesos, which amount to 85 usd ... Poco male: pay in pesos, and solve the problem.

Cortecito

At two in the morning Carlotta calls me from his room because he found two insects and can not sleep. Them we have those insettini there in the room .. seem a cross between a cricket and a cockroach. Matthew, however, is wrapped in a cocoon sheet, including the head, and sleeps like a rock. I put in the bed of Carlotta and sleep with her. But we wake up at four because none of us had more sleep. (Time?). So let's go to the beach and walk back and forth waiting for the dawn .... But the dawn comes here very late, almost at 7:00! At about six we move to stroll into the town hoping to find a Barettini open for sleepless ... but it is all desert, only guards. Last night we forgot to buy the water and when I wake up I have such a thirst that I also drink tap water ... but I do not gamble. The Coca Cola of Charlotte is full of flies and mosquitoes ... therefore we suffer thirst! At 7:00 finally gets up there and the owner sells bottles of water. Meanwhile wake up even the male representatives of the family and so, under the first rays of sun, take a dip in the sea! After breakfast walk in the country. All invite us to enter into their stores: "Just look, just look ..." but, unfortunately for them, we are not good potential clients because we certainly do not think even remotely to buy souvenirs of the voyage! In the country, apart from shops and various agencies of excursions, there is nothing. Going back along the beach and we continue to walk on bagnasciuga. Which is due south towards the north are large all inclusive resort. But apparently seem deserted.
The weather is beautiful and the sun very strong .... We therefore coated with a protective cream 8, but after a bit, we see that all glittering! Eh eh ... I mistakenly bought a antisolare with glitter!
Even along the beach is full of souvenir shops. Matthew and I returning to the hotel can speak five different languages as well, to accommodate all the exhibitors. They think that we are Germans, Americans, French .... and we feel in all languages! Then we discovered ... "Ah ... but Italians are ....!!!" Yes!. (The Hungarian but I do not speak none).
At lunch today we go to Langosta del Caribe (the Spanish-owned)! Restaurants Dominican none yet ..... nor BARETTINI or stalls .... nada de nada.
Compared to the Captain Cook this restaurant has no comparison! The service is excellent, the paella is fantastic and you spend less, indeed, much less!. Today, before lunch, Carlotta and Dad told me that they saw a small squaletto at sea. Thus, in the afternoon, I simply come and go quickly from the water, beneath the laughter of all .... because it was a joke! In mid-afternoon, you depart for a walk along the beach, but after half an hour, Carlotta and myself, destroyed by sleep on two beds collapse of an all inclusive wilderness and fall asleep. Giampaolo and Matthew km walk instead! After the shower we go to the supermarket, buy cigars, water and a bottle of rum with two glasses of beautiful wood, so you can drink in the moonlight!
There is also the restaurant of Cortecito Inn, where we gathered with Alfredo, the Italian singer last night. There is also another Italian with him. And here we seem to be an old clubs of New York at the time of immigration in Italy. In the end we all get to sing: Fly, O sole mio ... etc. Carlotta and I eat a cheviche exceptional (South American dish made of raw fish marinated in lime and seasoned with onion, tomato and green pepper cut small children). 23:00 we go to bed!

Cortecito – Higuey – Bayahibe

At 8:00 we are to make breakfast. Backpacks ready (I had also slipped into the bug ..). Today you go to in Inclusive of Bayahibe Dominicus Beach. 200 usd per day in four ... if I think that yesterday we spent here .... 300
We still do not know how to get there but we were told that just go to the bus stop and tell the driver where you must go and he makes you fall to the various stops coincidence.
At 9:00 we are on the road to Higuey. We have already changed 3 bus ... but the changes are so rapid and simple, that there is no problem to travel with the media. Basically they are the ones who stop you in the right place el'autobus after you pull up. Private buses are small, they are called guagua. They are usually run by a couple of people. A guide and the other brings people and take the money. The driver there is also the music.
Along the way houses, huts, hovels with tin roofs, cigar factories, warehouses of equipment for the hotel industry, plantations. At 9:40, the traffic slows down. We are almost stationary. There is a huge herd of cows and oxen in the street, accompanied by cowboys on horseback and, funny thing, there's also the road that marks the transition cow!
The herd runs in just over there and the journey continues. I expected that the bus runs like crazy, instead (at least so far) fairly well and drive carefully. Who said that in the Dominican drive badly or dangerously should take a trip in Sri Lanka!
A Higuey us stop right in front of the famous church in reinforced concrete, so the shoot.
Higuey is a classic small town typical of central-south america with a lot of people on the streets, stalls of fruit and vegetables, butchers with different fresh meat (?!?) hung in the sun and music that comes from all sides.
At 10:10 a.m. guagua us on the fourth morning. From there the road proceeds in the countryside. The poor households who reported seeing a very great poverty. It makes me angry to have spent this morning, 15 usd for the three, a café and two fried eggs, when people around here are living in misery. Giampaolo reminds me that we are in South America. OK! I know .. is also one of the reasons why most did not want to return, if not that, in 2002 the trip to Cuba I had reconciled with South America.
The Guagua leaves us at the state of the Romana-Bayahibe. Tells us to cross the road and wait for the guagua Dominicus but ... we do not make time, because it approached a van that offers to accompany us until Dominicus for $ 8! OK! This man is sympathetic. It is the owner of a restaurant on the stretch of beach that stretches between the Coral and the hotel Viva Dominicus. So it means that there are also restaurants run Dominicana! I am happy. In these days we will not need it, but we are giving the address given at the end of December we will be back here but not all inclusive. At 11:30 we're already at the Viva Dominicus.
The room she will only 15:00 but in the meantime we bring the wristband and we can eat, drink, use the beach, etc.. The weather is beautiful and the beach is beautiful! What do you want more from life?
The staff invites us to a promotional program for tomorrow morning. After lunch we take possession of the room. Bellina, mini bar, safe, television (which does not interest us), air conditioning (which does not use at all), machine for making tea and coffee in the morning (for me that I wake up early is always perfect) e. .. iron and ironing board (but I am crazy? mica think that I can tap an iron on vacation?). In the bathroom we have stacks of towels (enough for one month). The highlight however is the veranda of the bungalow with sea view! In the afternoon, Matthew and I will do a nice tour in a canoe. Here the water is crystalline and calmissima. It is not a wave as Punta Cana.
After some activity type lesson merengue, salsa, drink in the pool, etc.., We return in the Room, is now dark. Room are beautiful decorations in the shape of a swan made with towels and rose petals .... So now we have more towels! They count 12.
After dinner we go to see the show but a little punishment .... I also fall asleep in the theater, I therefore decide to go to bed. Matthew and Charlotte to go to a nightclub by themselves. Here there is no danger.

Bayahibe

I wake up at 6:30 (better!). I prepare the tea and I drink in the terrace with sea view. The weather is beautiful and the sea even more. Towards the sects lead me the photocopies of the New York Times! Nice service. After breakfast we go to the presentation promotional ... They wanted to sell us a package of 10,000 euros for the holidays to be exploited in the years to come ... We still offer two shirts and two caps for availability.
When you wake up the guys take a ride in a canoe, but it is tiring, so we buy the mattress, the more comfortable. Moreover this is a natural swimming pool! Tonight we have booked the Italian restaurant at the Palace. We do not have to pay even a part, we found that the ns. VIP bracelet and is entitled to use the facilities of the Palace, drink liquor import, and much more. It means that a book on the Internet, as well as to pay less, you're also privileged? Perhaps even the newspaper in the morning and decorations with swans are reserved for VIP? Lunch at the restaurant and then do two steps to look at what's Palace. There is a pond with herons rose. The beach is the same. I like bars and restaurants. Let's peek at an Italian restaurant and since it is not open cancel. Book on the "Grill" on the beach! Better. We are the Caribbean, with a wonderful climate and therefore we think it absurd to go to dinner in a restaurant indoors!
Afternoon with salsa and merengue. Chatting with a few Italian (here are all Italian), drink and shower. They even brought towels, in addition to those for the new decoration in the shape of a swan, so we are now at 18! Dinner at the "Grill" is not good ... but eatable. 22:00's Latin American dance with live music and entertainment in the disco with "Madonna" (?!). I fall asleep on the sofa of the disco where we all to bed early enough.

Bayahibe (Wednesday)

Wakes up at 8:30 this morning. Fantastico! I have taken over the rhythms.
After breakfast, Giampaolo and I go to look for a hotel for the end of the month (given that over cutting from there the nights of 29 and 30). The Cabana Elke (Italian management) are not bad, but we are asking only 130 usd per room ... Walking is the Hotel Bocayate, resettlement management (Italian for a change). Here we are asking 100 usd for two double rooms. It is pretty and just 3 min. walk to the beach, so we agree on the fly. Returning to the Viva we notice that the tourist center is completely in the hands of Italian operators. Real estate agencies, restaurants, bars, agencies organizing tours, diving, shopping for souvenirs and even the supermarket! A real colony! We pass by the Palace and there are tourists who have called an attendant, saying that there was a huge hairy spider (the famous cacata?) That was going on to a palm tree. I expected a scene type action movies in which the keeper pull out the gun and "Bang Bang" .... the intruder was outside ... but instead he simply said "It is completely harmless, NO PROBLEM."
Lunch at the restaurant, which ultimately is the best and then we let the beach life! We do a bit of snorkelling, even if there is not much to see (a few solitary fish) and then lesson Merengue and Salsa (mandatory for Carlotta).
A good aperitif in front of a beautiful sunset and our day ends. Dinner at a restaurant-based Central Asian cuisine (there's also Sushi with a Japanese chef who makes the demonstration). And, since it is the last evening here at the Viva Dominicus, we decide to participate in all activities: shows, discos and pizza (the pizza place is open until 7:00 in the morning ...). The show tonight was fun, maybe because it made by visitors?

Bayahibe – La Romana – Boca Chica (Thursday)

Carlotta us this morning and I wake up that first! Breakfast and away to the beach! Then comes that even Giampaolo becca a Medusa! Ahi Ahi Ahi ... I on the other a wasp stings as we complain in two! At noon we go to the baggage and 13:00, on time, do check out. "We can have lunch?" "Without any problem ..." In fact, they can also stay up to tonight! However we prepare to 14:30 at the bus stop, right in front of Dominicus. On guagua there are also some Italian tourists Viva (finally someone who is curious adventure from the outside) that are going to Rome. The first leads us to guagua Bayahibe, sleepy fishing village with a beautiful harbor. It is from here that leave all the excursions to the islands (Saona and Catalina). A half Bayahibe change and take the train to the Roman.
At 15:15 we enter the city of La Romana. Berthed at the port is a huge cruise ship. We are down to the Parque Central, where you stop for guagua Bocachica, which starts immediately. It seems that almost always expect us to leave. This is very guagua folklore. People who take in a race, it appears the driver of that incredible beat Manatee on the door open for it to stop. It also assists in the race, with another guagua to change the money from the window on the fly. The driver runs a lot, making overtaking incredible against other guagua. What is it? Schumi? But after a bit we find that, out of the city, trying to grab more customers of the other, when it is full and reaches the highway, begins to travel with a regular pace.
At 17:30 on guagua us down on the highway and, after 500 meters on foot, arrived in Boca Chica, where we are literally attacked by procurers business. Two are particularly insistent, and we follow up at Hotel Cachela. There claim that the owner gives them a commission .. You ask whether we have brought them. The monster, where the Lonely Planet had already pointed out the address and then she clears them. Or at least apparently, because after an hour we find them still there. (NDR: He had told the maid of Viva today for lunch and Boca Chica we found the mafia ...).
Hotel Cachela is an inn with beautiful rooms, on the road parallel to the beach (Duarte Ave). It also has a beautiful communal terrace that looks on the way, that evening, was closed to traffic and is filled with tables and chairs of the various bars. We go for a drink in a bar birretta face.
Let us go then to scour the beach, even if it is already dark. The whole walk up to the area west of the parking lot, where plenty of stalls selling fried fish with tree and / or fried potatoes! Should not be bad either .... After an aperitif in a bar on the beach, we return to the hotel. The room is cold because Giampaolo has left the air conditioning at most, so I sit in the terrace. The street is populated with tables, coffee tables and chairs of the various bars. There is music and a lot of people. Let's go to dinner by Fernando! Exceptional. Maybe tomorrow night we Prosecutor lobsters. Coming back home is pure vida! Music at the most overcrowded bar, people dancing. It seems to me almost impossible that he had read in a travel diary that Boca Chica is very quiet and there is no nightlife .... ... Bho?

Boca Chica (Friday)

Alarm at eight, at least for me and Giampaolo. Matthew and Charlotte asleep and we let them go. Meanwhile on the beach we go to find a place for the day. It is full of bars and restaurants that provide chairs and beds, where consumption of them. To consume as we are experts, so we chose a beautiful spot on one of the most scenic stretches of beach. It is a German-run restaurant, and rightly full of German visitors. Besides there is an Italian restaurant full of customers (then talk of United Europe!). Although Boca Chica seems to be the center of prostitution, I must say that there are also many foreign couples and even many regular families. Boca Chica, after five days in high tourist resort (Punta Cana and Bayahibe), there seems a more truthful, more South America, with children lustra-shoes, and you are asking for alms, with the procurers Business and the fried fish stalls. I do not understand why some off to go to Boca Chica. I think it is a place to see. (NDR: Of all the fact that there will remain more favorably impressed!)
The day allowing us to spend a little bit of everything! Carlotta is doing pigtail (15 usd and 40 euros as a Bayahibe). Giampaolo ago pedicure. Sollazzo us with mattresses in the calm waters. A mattress was broken, therefore they buy another one vendor, but ... PURA VIDA! This is the first time since we in the Dominican Republic that we can give money to local people and we are happy! I also eat 12 raw clams, but living with a little lemon (excellent !!!), bought by a nice walking, insists that to make me eat the Lambi in tomato sauce! We also drink a coco loco with added BRUGAL ANJECO!
Then, with Carlotta, let's try the fried fish that make the stalls. Here the people are friendly, cordial, especially the simple people. At lunch Wurstel eat ... and drink beer ... (in a German restaurant is inevitable). The staff is friendly. After lunch Matthew and I try "El Tubo Special" a sort of floating mattress where you keep clinging wave jumping on the air, while the motor trolling ... you are having fun. Carlotta also ... since it has obtained permission to board the speedboat with the driver ....
Sore point of the day: a Carlotta drops the digital camera stops working! S'è ROUTE '..! In the afternoon we spend on purchases from local vendors. Buy necklaces, bandanas, cigars ... and then? Then end the money then Charlotte and I run into a hotel to pick stocks. We pay the restaurant and, before you go, let the seller of mattresses where we leave our two. As from tomorrow, for over a week, we do not need anymore, he will have the opportunity to resell! We spent a beautiful day here in Boca Chica. We felt useful for tourists! There have also been impressed two beautiful children, we have given two pens, but they did not know what. Asked the mother, who was selling bananas on the beach, which replied that the school used to (NDR: who knows if we ever go to school?). Then we made them try to draw. We wrote their names and our and their trying to copy.
When we return to the hotel the Way Duarte is already animated. At dinner we return from Fernando! Fernando has prepared lobster and four lobsters. We also eat a cocktail of prawns and a delicious paella, allowing even a bottle of wine! In total we spend 2000 pesos in four with a tip! (60 usd) (NDR: the lower in absolute spending throughout the Dominican). Around 22:30 we return to the hotel but there is a strange around ... People running, a girl who feels bad, others cry, withdraw the bar chairs and tables .... What happened? The doorman explained to us that they killed a boy.
It is the result of easy money, prostitution, drugs ... maybe. And who goes there at the end of half are young people without education, no future, exploited by the criminal underworld. Unfortunately also happens in Europe.

Boca Chica – Santo Domingo (Saturday)

At 7:30 we are already in the street, backpacks on their shoulders, to stop direct guagua of Bocachica. We stop to take a coffee in a Barettini open. There we meet an Italian gentleman who explained to us that live here for six years. We do gossip and, mindful of the ns. exceptional dinner last night, the talk of the restaurant from Fernando. You will not believe it but he did not know him. Be said to prefer to eat at home, two Spaghettini, because he does not like the Dominican cuisine. People are just strange! How do I live here for six years and not try the restaurants? (moreover, there are a dozen in all!). While sipping tea and coffee, the kids who come to clean the shoes. Since we do not have shoes but sandals simple, give them pens and offer a slice of cake. Meanwhile close to a taxi driver offers to take us directly to the hotel in Santo Domingo for 24 usd. Sure that morning to walk the road we have just made little! (10 m!)
The Hotel Santo Domingo we booked via the Internet. It's called El Palacio Hotel Conde. It is in the historical center on foot so we can visit all the most important monuments!
Coming in Santo Domingo, the driver switches from the Faro a Colon, so we do a picture. To inspect it within no time and then we are not interested that much.
The hotel is beautiful, we have a huge room with two double Latvians that you can sleep in six! The bathroom is amazing .... and the light turns on automatically when you close the door! (NDR: Menomale which is a standard room, who knows what the deluxe?). All this for only 98 usd in 4 people. The entrance gives on a garden very relaxing. But we do not have time to relax and so at 9:00 we are already walking through the center of town. The center of Santo Domingo is clean and orderly, there are few people around the streets, on the other stores are still closed. We do breakfast in the Parque Colon, then visit the Cathedral Primado America, the first cathedral built in America or at least the oldest that has survived until today, because apparently there was a cathedral built in Mexico before, but went destroyed over the years. The first stone of this cathedral was laid by Diego Columbus, the son of Christopher.
After visiting the Cathedral we are going to try the Museum of the Family, but it is closed. There is a beautiful chapel nearby, which take advantage to visit (The Chapel of the Dominican Order Terzieri). He also has a beautiful garden in the back. We are then to the Fortress of Osama, but wrong way and end up near the port where there is not named in the reinforced concrete monument (the concrete must be very fashionable). Go up on the terrace located on the top from where we admire the harbor.
The area of the port is pure chaos, columns of vehicles, trucks, pick up, playing the horn all'impazzata, blocked traffic, hundreds of people who are advancing with suitcases, briefcases, trunks, boxes. A man has with himself amche a bed! They are embarking the ferry to Panama. Return in the center and go to visit the Fortress of Osama. Climb the tower from where you can admire a great view of the city. Pity that in the courtyard are preparing a demonstration, by mounting curtains, boxes and setting up tables. The basic colors are red white and green, which is an Italian festival?
On the way back from the Fortress, a reality check before the Family Museum, which is now open. The museum is the reconstruction of a house of a Dominican family (RICH!) At the time of colonialism. There are some very well-preserved furniture, chandeliers and fine china varied. There is also the birthplace of a child. An old French fashion magazine in black and white near a sewing machine brand Italian! The museum is inside and outside is very well kept.
Left the museum begins to rain. We will repair under the arcades of the Parque Colon. There is music to the streets because there is a party. There are also puppets. Carlotta dance a little bit of sauce with a Dominican. Then, over the roar of water, we see a couple of agencies Rent a Car. From tomorrow, we need a rental car for 4 days .... Our program is going to Comendadores, down to the lake and then get Enquirillo Barahona, where you can visit the lagoon of Oviedo. Program a bit complicated to achieve with the bus. But the first (the Italian) is not available if machines are not "super" jeep at a cost of almost 100 usd a day, the second has also economic. Even tells us that if we return in the evening (before 20:00), perhaps including a machine for 35 usd. Ok revise tonight.

Santo Domingo (Saturday)

At 13:00 we sit in a restaurant chosen at random, in Piazza dell'Hispanidad, the square where there is the old house of the Son of Columbus, now Museo Alcazar de Colon. The square is very spacious and relaxing. Full of bar-restaurants, but today almost all empty! The restaurant we chose it turns out to be Brazilian and offer a fixed menu of meat .... You try! We carry 18 different types of meat, from beef, rabbit, chicken, veal ... .. plus all the trimmings. Thank goodness we are not vegetarians. We stand up from the restaurant satolli beautiful! We still eat divinely. After lunch we visit the ruins of the Monastery of San Francesco, built by the Franciscan monastery in 1500. There is an air of peace inside of this monastery and its gardens, pity that deforms the trash this place. Then we go to the Museum of Alcazar Colon, the former home of Diego Columbus. Inside there are some furniture and furnishings were just told that belonged to his family. But for us Europeans it is not so hard to believe, are dated at the bottom just a little over 500 years!
Then the Royal Palace, although some members of my family are beginning to acknowledge signs of slowing. We visit all the rooms, including the collection of weapons. Even here in the courtyard, are setting up something. A marriage, we explain. At the clock do some photos of the Sun (a kind of sundial) then decide to return to the hotel. Ripasso from Parque Colon (today is already the fifth time!) Where there is now a spectacle of dance. We stop a little but does a terrible heat. So we decide to go into a hotel. Arrived at the hotel, however, Carlotta convinces me to return to the streets. At the end is also Matthew, but when we arrive at the Parque, everything is finished. We rather enjoy a parade on main street of girls belonging to a school for models. All dressed in white, there will be about fifty, but almost no laughs. Then book a restaurant for tonight. Recommended by Lonely Planet: The Meson D'Bari. When we come to the restaurant we remain a bit perplexed. It seems an inn, with lots of people eating, drinking and troublesome crowds ... A cocktail of music and voices. But the upstairs is very elegant and quiet, so book a table for 20:30. Outside the restaurant there are luxury cars parked. I pointed this out Matthew: there is also a Porsche Cayenne.
Before returning to the hotel from the supermarket to go shopping. Fun with us because the trolley is virtually a basket with wheels, that is trolling. Buy nougat, rum and water. At 18:30 Return to hotel. Then quick shower and Giampaolo and I leave to go to the rental car. Then returns to Parque Colon (This is the seventh time that we move from here!) But the rental is closed ... Now what? Simple: Guagua! It means that skip the step of Comendadores.
Let's go back on our feet and we stop to drink a cocktail on the pedestrian street, in a nice Barattino with the waiter who drink beer, sing and dance! Giampaolo Then you clean your shoes (which fit for the evening in the city!) And finally move on to our children to move to the restaurant. A Giampaolo announced that the restaurant is kind inn with lots of noise but is well attended as you can see from the vehicle fleet (now there is also a Land Rover Discovery). He, too, in fact in one still puzzled. But then we go upstairs where everything is very beautiful and romantic. Next to us there is a table of a group of friends (we assume) that they will continue to exchange gifts with each other, throughout the dinner and speeches with a custom for every one of them! (NDR: to see this show in the following days and in all areas of the Dominican. It is the tradition with friends or acquaintances, to exchange greetings and gifts before Christmas, also Christmas for them is considered throughout the period running from mid-December and ends with the year New. A good excuse to celebrate all night!)
Eat well. And I taste a good guinea fowl cooked in red wine. After dinner we go to seek a ballroom reported by Lonely Planet, but the management has changed its name and the place is desert, while Saturday evening. So we just drink something and then we go to bed.

Santo Domingo – Barahona (Sunday)

Since there was to find a car rental, last night we decided to move to Barahona in guagua and, in the end, rent a car in place.
Do we bring to the bus station by a taxi there and buy something to eat and drink, but it was useless because, at least until the city every ten meters up and down from the bus dozens of vendors of all kinds of food. Even today, chasing and beyond to attract customers. Outside the colonial center, Santo Domingo is quite dirty and poorly kept, piles of dirt to edges of the road and houses very poor, practically shacks. Typical periphery of the countries of South America. Guagua This is great, and also has air conditioning. Above there is also a dog (perro) only that the fun is that the perro is not nobody ... (ah ah). From Bani on the landscape changed from a plan hilly and it's all very green. At noon we stop in a sort of motorway "El Parador Donde Todo Hay! Fumarci opportunity for a cigarette, go to the bathroom and take a fresh President! To 13:30 we should get but I have doubts .... In fact, we arrive at 14:00! Barahona station to go to the bathroom. The bathroom is under construction and now is in a room of six meters to six by the end, in a corner ... the water! No door ... so in turn we do the sentinel. Call a taxi to lead us in a strange place, read on the Lonely, managed by Swiss .... It should be a hotel situated in a pleasant, 10 km from Barahona. But we are disappointed when we arrive. The place is beautiful, but is located over a kilometer from the state and there is a soul alive .... What can we do a poor Italian family in a place outside the world and without a car? BEHIND FRONT. Back in the city. Trying to move from hotel Guaracuya. Although there are many guests, because a marriage between a German and a Dominican, has two bedrooms. The driver meanwhile, the fact that you have reported back, ask us twice ... "Me desculpe porch ...? You regressive the same, no? "No! It's adamant! In the end we give a 30% increase. Wow, it almost cost more than the taxi from Santo Domingo guagua here .... Patience. The hotel sits on a rocky beach, where the tables are preparing for marriage (you can see that love to get married here in December).
The owner of the Hotel is a Dominican (it was now!), A former policeman and retired, from what I understand, it operates together with the relations. It is also nice and offers us a beer. The hotel is not kept very well and, although full of people, seems in a state of neglect!
Due to the kindness of the owner, ask if you happen to know where we can rent a car for three days. But from his expression we deduce that the car rental ... NADA! He says trying to ask acquaintances, but the only thing you can do is give us a tour guide. The guide in question, which must be another retired policeman, is proposing - as we said we want to save - to accompany him in public transportation .... We laugh .... If we go to Lake Enquirillo with guagua we can go by yourself, no?
We sit down to chat with a German couple. They too came to believe Barahona to find a rental car to see the Lake Enquirillo and are here to admire the sea. They come from Sosua and you, looking at this beach without many attractions to me says: "To think that there is a beautiful sea ...". However, to visit the park Enquirillo, decided to entrust to an area and have booked an excursion organized for tomorrow. We are going tomorrow instead of the Laguna Oviedo so that we exchange views and to limit the next day we will shift to Enquirillo or better descubierta. But no stress ... we are on vacation! Therefore, Giampaolo and I going to do two steps at the beach. A few meters from the hotel there is a natural harbor with many boats of fishermen and kids who are swimming. We met a nice family who asks us if we want to take a picture with their gemelline ... and no! The mission to the whole family, then do give us the address so dispatched.
At six in the afternoon we are going to make two steps in the center to take the money and give to the city un'occhiatina. The city is strange. On the road of the sea there is a long line of beautiful villas and cottages, while the center is mostly a group of poor houses, without windows and very malconce. Simple people's cooking on the road. A young man stops by his beautiful bike and asks if Charlotte wants to do a lap. (NDR: ... sure dó permission ....) Let us return to the seafront, where there is a set of noise and a BARETTINI unimaginable. The noise is produced by the juke-box of two adjacent bars that make a race to who puts the music at higher volume. This is more than cars parked in the street, with the trunk open from where glimpsed the mega box stereo music that shoot a thousand decibels! Take a drink and eat two papas fritas, because today we have not even lunch. Continues to reach people. Tanta and elegant. On the streets, are now dozens of parked cars and off for at least 80 thousand euros each. Where did all these people? For what we have seen so far, Barahona there has certainly given the impression of a city so rich. People will be on vacation?
Certainly the image of those children who are now bathed in the beach of the fishermen is in sharp contrast with these people who wear several kilos of gold around your neck and off-road luxury. Return to hotel to change and right, making the road between the mosquitoes, we rely on the waterfront to go to the restaurant. The restaurant is practically on the other side of town. Rehearsing in front of the area before, we notice that there is now even more people. Dance and sing. There are also small stalls selling food and in the middle of the road hours enthroned a truck, with two stereo speakers at least a thousand watts, with which it can overhang the music of others. Turisti anyone. We arrive at the restaurant Las Brisas del Caribe, the only restaurant in the truest sense of the word of Barahona. Even here there is a parking lot full of luxury cars. The restaurant is crowded with people dressed very well and there is also the usual table "Christmas", which is exchanging gifts and greetings.
We ask the waiter, friendly and kind (NDR: I must say that in this area are all nice and cordial), if there is some festival in the country? We replied that no, it's only Christmas but since we are in Barahona many people who live and work abroad but that during the holidays back home, to find and exploit the opportunity to celebrate Christmas with family and friends . The call even though this town is rich and we replied that it is precisely because so many people working abroad.
But this explanation does not convince you, because even abroad, if you're not a great manager or a professional, you can hardly afford such cars. (NDR: There will be explained later that many people who live mainly in the United States but also in Spain, are nothing but drug dealers .... So at least one mystery is revealed!)
After dinner we go to bed, because tomorrow we have to do a bit of miles!

Barahona – Laguna de Oviedo – Los Patos - Barahona (Monday)

At 9:00 the family allegra Grignani is sitting on a guagua that travels the coast of the peninsula of Perdenales towards Oviedo. The first guagua brings us up to Paraiso.
A Paraiso us a nice drink cerveza and then expect the President by other means. Skip a car with a couple and he asks us: "Vous etes francais?" "No - we answer - nous sommes italiens. At that slows, and turns the motor reaches us. It is Italian too, named Daniel, a Dominican wife and lived here for fifteen years. Los Patos exactly where we should go in the afternoon. It is surprising, because usually meets only the French who travel the way we are. To explain that, in fact, we wanted to rent a car here, but we did not find it. Asks us if we have the insect repellent, since we go on the lagoon of Oviedo. (No ... I forgot!). This is going to take at home and .... then the oceanic ns. guagua, which in the meantime we have uploaded, and .... We pass through the window! Here you can breathe the air of South America! Today, instead of the dog on the bus, there is a rooster, but his owner.
We pass by the town of Enriquillo, pretty. We also see the food market. There is also a small stage for the combat of cocks! Around Enriquillo lose at least one quarter of an hour because this guagua must also be assigned to deliveries of parcels and cargo. In theory, the race is due to end here, but since has risen another couple who has to go to Oviedo, the driver decides to take us! THANKS!
Us your entry ticket to the park (NDR: Maybe he was afraid that we lost ...) The park seems very well organized and clean. Unfortunate that in addition to us there is no other visitor. At 11:30, to hire our. driving, leaving for the tour of the lagoon by boat. The weather is bad and also pulls the wind. The lagoon waters are choppy. First stop the island of Iguana. Cute little animals eat the leaves, which we follow as well! I left
the repellent on the boat so the mosquitos are in time to eat. Mirador go on but time is bruttina ... The second stop is near a small island (in lagoon there are dozens), where pink flamingos gather. They are there ahead of us, and when fighting his hands, rose smartly in flight. The last stop is on the Tainos of Cueva (Cave of the natives). Advancing in the jungle, fairly circumspect .... La cueva is but a small cave where they were found some of the pictograms tainos (which date back about 700 years ago ...). At 13:30, take us back to the shore, all wet and cold because the wind was so strong that all the water spray of the waves at him. There systemic guagua of the parade (we were told that there are so many ....) At 14:00 but there is still no one came ... .. At 14:05 it passes an overloaded with passengers stuck behind that door ... BEAUTIFUL ... and now? We are told that the next guagua is at 15:00. We go into a shop and buy the food casaba, sandwiches tradition of the Tainos, the flour made from cassava (tapioca), two beer and coca cola because the water is denied. Chatted a bit with the kids who are there to stop (but do not expect the bus, just pass the time). Give a little bit of pens for smaller children who are playing in the street. Playing with toys very humble. But enjoy the same. At 15:00 passing another bus overloaded even more than the first. We explain that there was now a Perdenales the Haitian market and therefore the buses are full. Understood .... but we? At 16:00 I know that's the last guagua ... And if even that is full? IDEA! We try to make the hitch. Will be tough because the passing vehicles are also too few and already nearly all filled. But instead, after the fifth attempt went blank, it stops and a pick up there together! Leads us to Enriquillo: from them there are many more guagua, are reassuring.
The pick up and run ... we balzelliamo on the floor. People on the street when we are laughing ... maybe have never seen tourists on pick up? Makes us get off at stop guagua for Barahona, we try to give him money, but they want to, indeed, for little is offended!
At four and a half we arrive at Los Patos and try Daniele, Italian met this morning. It has a restaurant on this beach really charming. He says that he did not think to see more .... (NDR: And he was right!) Children ordering a fish and roast us a beer. Meanwhile, we chat and photos. The beach is not sand but ciotoli but what is the picturesque river that, before flowing into the sea, form a pool of incredible natural beauty! It is tempting for a swim but the water is really cold.
Daniele tells her story, to me does a little bit of sadness. Then talk about the area Perdenales. Not much tourism as it seemed to us to see him and he confirms. They live mainly in tourism Dominicano. There were also resorts here, until a few years ago, but have closed their doors. The telling of our travel plan, the explain that tomorrow we would go to the lake Enquirillo ... But he does not give us an excellent framework Enquirillo ... tells us that it is even more beautiful Laguna Oviedo !(?!?). At sunset we are on the road to take a guagua. Think if there were not more? ... But instead passes and we charged. It is also full of friendly people and friendly. There is a beautiful music, even if the last score that goes up the changes with a series of sweet-voiced tangos. We arrive at the hotel rather tired. We are also full of bites of mosquitoes. Let's take a shower (cold because the boiler was broken), we change and go out to dinner. Tonight we did not want to walk all the way to the country where we stop in the area of chaotic bars last night, that evening for another is not so overcrowded! Tomorrow we have 2 options: either with a move to La guagua descubierta, visit the national park of Lake Enquirillo and then stop there to sleep, or head directly to Jarabacoa and jump the lake area.
Who we are finally convinced the two Germans, who meet to return to the hotel. They have just returned dall'escursione on Lake Enquirillo, and descriptions that make the National Park is so similar to what we saw today on Laguna Oviedo (apart from the crocodiles that also have not even had the good fortune to see) that we have no doubt: we renounce to go in the area of Enquirillo one night and we are more in Jarabacoa. Then tomorrow morning you return to Santo Domingo!

Barahona – Santo Domingo – Jarabacoa

We wake up with blisters on the legs to be afraid. We scratched all night and we are crazy by the itching. I remember the effect fly-sand (sand fleas) Cuba What were their relatives? Go early to have breakfast, because here it takes at least half an hour .. The bill we already paid because they paid in advance. We do a photo to the beautiful sunrise over the sea and then we move!
At the bus stop debating whether to take a bus or guagua of Caribe Tours. I for opto guagua, because the Caribbean is part of an hour and a half ... and it is because it has air conditioning that does not personally hate ... But in the end even this guagua expressed for Santo Domingo, has air conditioning and Fortina .... On the streets there to stop a lot of checkpoints (to same did not happen). We explain that there are no control Haitians ... Of course I do not understand how to monitor, because it limited only to look people in the face: the appearance of Haitians are so different? Our driver guide very carefully (thinking that when I saw him so young, I feared all'impazzata ran ...).
After the usual stop at the "Parada Donde Todo You" for toilet and snack, go to 12:00 in Santo Domingo. The driver lets us go directly to the Caribe Tours station, from where to 13:30 from the bus to Jarabacoa (times cited the Lonely Planet are perfect!). The bus Caribe also has the TV and the toilet. But has not the environment that the choreography is on public transport that we have taken so far. At four in the afternoon we arrive at precise Jarabacoa. First thing to do is search for accommodation, but with calm. We sit in a bar, drink something and meanwhile see the guide. We look at the hotel Brisas de Jaqué there in the center, pretty, but it is full! The lady at the reception, very kind, call us at Great Jimenoa. I thought it was more expensive, however the price is 50 usd per room with breakfast. Perfect. Take a taxi (because the hotel is located a few kilometers from the village) and we see it. Breathtaking. Not all the rooms, which are fine, but as the environment. The hotel is located in the Open, has a nice pool and is very well kept. The restaurant is a fable, initiated a terrace above the river, so that the tables closest to the rapids, there is such a noise that you can barely communicate.
Take two bedrooms, although one was probably sufficient, given that there are two double beds per room. There are no mosquito nets and then deduce that there are no mosquitoes. No mosquitoes, but the children are just a small frog in a room ... (and how it has made to rise to the 2nd floor?) The throw into the pool from the terrace and you paddle skipping and happy. Ask at reception if they can give us a car rental (at least here there will be?). And there is also a good price. We carry a Honda CRV for 45 usd per day! "Bueno!" We do not seek or deposit or credit card ... perhaps because he booked the hotel?
In the evening, since we also have a car, we go to dinner in town! We make two passes through the center. Orderly and graceful, the great central square reminds a little Mexican towns and there are many restaurants and nightclubs.
We stop at a supermarket to buy something. There is an international group of young and old. Being in choir singing Christmas songs and toast with all persons and employees of the supermarket, on the basis of salted tea and biscuits. Are of Don Bosco. The offer to us!
Galeria dinner at the restaurant, in the central square. I ordered a plate of rice to the Dominican (a kind of Asian-flavored paella), which is enough to feed four people.

Jarabacoa – Costance – Jarabacoa

Alarm at seven and breakfast on the river! The weather is beautiful, despite pouring rain last night. Breakfast on the basis of mashed potatoes and eggs, then you leave. The first step is to the waterfalls of Jimenoa Dos. The only tourists, in addition to us, three Russians! The place is beautiful and idyllic scenery. To the waterfalls is accessed through a series of suspended bridges.
The waterfall (the "jump"), about 50 meters, falls into a natural swimming pool very inviting, but where the water is really cold, so overlook the idea of a bath .... After visiting the first falls, we start to Constance, but reserve the right to visit the other two this afternoon, returning from Costanza se avanza tempo. Jarabacoa leaving after the first kilometers, the road becomes very bad. Luckily we rented a jeep. The road, theoretically, could be flown by any means, but also with the jeeps, it is a reduced speed. But the scenery is breathtaking!
Landscape rock and partly mountainous. The Lonely Planet guide says that is reminiscent of the Swiss Alps ... but for this comparison I think we should have turned quite a fantasy!
We stop in a very nice, with all the colorful houses. Immersed in greenery and surrounded by valleys and mountains.
Pause to make some slides and, from a very nice house with lots of flowers in the garden, leaving a woman who takes advantage of asking for money to buy clothes for her daughter.
From the town of Rio ricomincia the road. Constance lies in a valley planted with strawberries, salad and garlic. This even if they perceive the acrid smell. We make two steps in the city but that, beyond the view of the hills dotted with many residential houses, not much to offer the visitor. Looking for .... Japanese (NDR it would be fun to photograph a Japanese farming fields here in the Dominican) because, when the dictator Truillio, a colony of Japan had withdrawn from Dominican plots of agricultural land at favorable prices, which briefly became very flourishing! But the Japanese have been gone several years ago. Was not even a family. For lunch we stop at a restaurant Aguas Blancas. The service is slow so we lose at least a couple of hours. In return we make a nice chat with a Dominican very nice and friendly and a great eat guinea fowl (guinea) in red wine!
At 15:30, on the way back, we stop in a village to upload a couple who called a pass. He is the doctor in the country, the Dominican Republic to Santiago, and she is his American girlfriend, of Louisiana. Also sing in the car (.... Despues que pasa the temporal ....), But just because we sing for a curve, some woodsmen beckoned us to stop. We have a rubber-earth! BELLO! Cerchiamo the CRIC (el gato), but I do not find .... The key to cross do not go well for the bolts of the spare tire. And now? No problem! Stop a couple of vehicles until they find a key to the right size! The CRIC rather lend it to the forest but since the truck is, in our car we passed! But the problem is now solved: the woodcutters raise the weight of the jeep and placed above the CRIC! Too strong, I filmo the scene ... Meanwhile, I offer a trago of Rum! GRACIAS. After a good half hour and after distributing tips left and right, but we start when we get on the road to Jarabacoa, we see that the steering is dancing the merengue and the wheel swings eerily (not the right size!). We stop at a distributor and we call the rental. Since they're already almost five, renounce to the other two waterfalls and we are reporting directly to the hotel. We play a couple of pool matches and take a drink. Evening dinner at hotel. He almost cold on the river, so we put the pile (NDR: the only time we have served throughout the journey!). We are the only customers and we fully enjoy this corner of Rio, to us completely confidential.

Jarabacoa – Santiago – Puerto Plata – Sosua

After breakfast we take a taxi to go to the bus station. It's cold, but despite what the driver had the air conditioning at most! At 8:30 we are already on a guagua for La Vega. The child is guagua (15 seats) and 18 more are in our backpacks, which for the first time we did pay the ticket! Let Jarabacoa, its magnificent nature, its tranquility, its cleanliness and order. Here we have not noticed a lot of poverty, perhaps the flourishing agriculture of the area and a good tourism industry that works all year round, thanks to the Dominican tourism, make the fortune of this place.
Now we will see the north coast! A la Vega change half and take one for Santiago. Even this is small and overcrowded. And here we are paying the tickets for the "maleta. In Santiago, the guagua ago practically all round the city. The city of Santiago, which is considered the second capital of the Dominican, it is clean, tidy and modern, especially the center. There are beautiful houses and modern buildings. Confusion and little shops all'europea. There are then guagua change, to go to the bus station "Javilla", where the means to Puerto Plata. The Javilla "is a company big enough .... In fact there are tickets! This too is full guagua but is quite big and comfortable.
Threatening cloud on the horizon facing blacks. In Puerto Plata, a city that looks half-abandoned, messy, chaotic and dirty (at least in the periphery) will leave the state, where will the guagua to Sosua. It is the fifth of the day. We do not even have to go down there practically load weighing on an already scassatissimo bus full of people. To our protests are not even appropriate. Matthew is submerged by backpacks .... I will get special treatment! .... Carlotta indeed assumed that the driver appears to like his mother! Arrive in Sosua, where the guagua also helps me to cross the road (perhaps he was right Carlotta?).
After 400 meters on foot to reach retirement Anneliese, booked on the Internet. I Nuvoloni are always threatening but for now it does not rain! The board is pretty, has a pool and a beautiful terrace, where you can enjoy a beautiful view. There is a bit of disorder at the bar but probably will not clean. The reception is not the best because they do not even accompany us to the rooms, they give us the keys to us and we seek. Overall, however, seems a good choice. The rooms are very spacious. Matthew laments the presence of some insettino room but nothing tragic! We go to eat in the Water Front, which is near there, and from which you access the beach Alicia. The beach is beautiful, but Alicia is completely devoid of any service, such as beds, bars, etc.., So decide by mutual agreement, and after lunch we will shift to Playa Sosua. For lunch do not eat very well and also spend a lot too. To go to the beach through the center of Sosua, which is nice, with many shops and clubs. The beach is hemmed in particular and many palms. It stretches for about one kilometer in length and is flanked by a series of shops, bars and restaurants! We offer beds, but they say the figure of 60 pesos a head if it were the whole day should be good, but they are already the 16:30 and soon set the sun ... So we just sit in a bar for a drink .
We also do a nice bathroom. The sea is a bit rough. Not much indeed, but enough to make the water a bit cloudy, so I picchio suffered a foot against a rock that I had not seen! Around five, Matthew and I decided to do a thorough reconnaissance of all the restaurants of the beach-bar to choose a "right" for tomorrow. Prices vary enormously from one room to another. The menus are always the same. The last part of the beach to the west is full of rooms a little ambiguous and women at will. So we go back. We also find an Italian restaurant, run by a Bolognese. It was made deluge, so we are forced to repair them under there. A young man from Milan says that he came here two years ago on holiday and stayed. "And what work are you doing?" Means wonder. "I work the other - we respond - this is a paradise." To us it seems not a paradise ... but do not deepen, we also do not even understand what he is dealing with. Another young Italian-Canadian explains that in Dominican is sufficient to put a little bit of money in the bank and with the high interest that you can keep giving more than good.
We have big doubts on this but in all cases, it is not our problem. The rain does not fall to mention that we decide to deal with, at most there ... a little wet. But along the way the rain became torrential, streams of water down to the dragging along bagnasciuga shrubs, rocks and mud. Arrive where we had left and Giampaolo Carlotta (who meanwhile were repaired within the restaurant) completely soaked!
Tomorrow, Matthew and I, by mutual agreement, we chose the restaurant for Miriam! Dominicans are, nice and is located on a beautiful stretch of beach.
Giampaolo back at the hotel aims to make a stop at the Piergiorgio, owned by Italian fashion designer and one that seems to be a jewel of architecture. The hotel, the exterior of Victorian style, it is actually quite beautiful. We decide to take an aperitif on the terrace. Matthew rightly points out there that we are not just clothes in keeping with the place ... but in the meantime a flood again, therefore we have no alternative but to enter!
At seven we arrived at our house. The bar is still in chaos, dozens of empty beer bottles, overflowing ashtrays for butts ... but no one here does not clean?
Meanwhile Giampaolo screams from the bathroom that there is no water. I go looking for the owner who informs me that, unfortunately, the pump is broken. WELL. And to wash? And for the discharge of water? .... We give full buckets of water drawn from a dark pit in which I dare not think what might be inside ... Giampaolo irritates you, I will launch the idea to wash in the pool! So, after a few minutes, the happy family is found throughout Grignani together in the pool, in the dark (no light in the garden?). We are robbing too, so there is no one who sees us .... Eight and a half to go to dinner. Carlotta choose a French restaurant "A La Vache", because she likes the environment, the color and decorations. It 'just been opened by a French couple of Montpellier. Personally, I did not want to go, because of my fixation with the local cuisine, but we ate divinely! (Personally, I ate a bundles of veal kidneys, which were worth at least 3 stars of the Michelin guide). After dinner, we do two jumps in the disco but we are going to bed early. Tomorrow day of sand and sea! After returning to the board, mouse hunt, infiltrated into the room of the boys! But we can throw it out in minutes.

Sosua

I wake up at 8:00. The weather is bad and flood. Lots of water outside and no water in the room!
All asleep, I leave the room and I go to see if anyone is willing to make me tea. There is the mother of the owner who apologized for the lack of water, and reassures me that around 10 am there will be. The husband of his daughter went to Santo Domingo to buy a new pump. Asks me if we heard the thunder last night ... Thunder? ... I have not heard anything. Tells me that there was one that made the walls vibrate even ... (perhaps exaggerating)! I discover that the owners (both his mother that her daughter) are German ... I would not have ever said: Dominican seem real ... especially as a judge from holding the public areas. In the bar area (which is still as such yesterday morning) to exchange gossip with a Korean boy who complains that it can not take a shower. The council to move a few meters outside the canopy and take a shower "natural"! Giampaolo wakes up and make breakfast. Let sleeping ... so i pargoletti with this incessant rain what can you do? Giampaolo I confirmed tonight that there have been mad thunder striking one of which I wake up thinking ... but I have not shown signs of life ... The children have spent a few hours awake because of thunder ... (who is becoming deaf?) . Since the weather is bad so we decide to take convenience. We do spend a little bit of laundry and trying to make a few reusable clothing ... then decide by mutual agreement to go to the beach itself. The Jewish Museum did not want anyone to visit and to go to Cabarete in the flood we even think. So the four pilgrims arrive in Playa Sosua noon, under the water and in the midst of mud and debris caused by the time tonight! The beach is deserted. It even closed the vast majority of shops and restaurants. But our restaurant "El Coco Rico, Miriam, is open! He stopped a little bit of rain and we are preparing a table with umbrella (in this case anti-rain) on the beach. We pamper all day. Lead us to drink on the beach, you change the ashtray, we cooked prawns and lobsters. We also prepare the coco loco, a pina colada ... nell'ananas prepared with the full flesh into pieces .... and VAII! Among roar of water, swimming in the sea and cocktails South Americans, we arrive early at sunset, but before concluding the day I am an oyster scorpacciata bought from a vendor on the beach! Small but tasty. When paying the bill we do not have enough money (dejavu!) So I offer to go to the board to take. After about fifty meters but comes a shower and then return back crazier soup of water! Five minutes after start (comes with me also Carlotta) but this time we are surprised a deluge exaggerated! The beach becomes a river again. What do we do? Take a motoconcho, which quickly brings us to the board and goes back between puddles and rivulets of water. To distract us from the rain, on the fly, to sing songs squarciagola Russian. (We have taken for matte? ... Or perhaps for Russian?).
In the evening, after a nice shower (there is water!), We are going to eat in a restaurant specializing in grilled meat, but where are the prawns more good. Partitina a pool, and then we go all disco. The disco music, as usual, is based on merengue, salsa and kissed ... but also we must not forget that we are in Santo Domingo. There is also a Dominican dancing in almost pornographic. It is of very questionable taste and vulgar. Then comes a group of tourists from an all inclusive of Cabarete and the environment comes alive. At 2:00 we go to bed.

Sosua

We wake up with a wonderful time! A beautiful sun and a sky so clear to be confused with the blue of the sea. We decide to stay another day here and let us at last a day at sea! Back to Sosua beach and we rearranged the restaurant yesterday, for the joy of the managers.
Today the beach is full of people but also to vendors. We parade before our eyes throughout the day: oysters, shrimp, clams, bananas, coconut, pineapple etc ....
Spend the day swimming in the sea and sun. Matthew and Charlotte make a tour with the "tube" but continually fall into the water on the beach ... we meet the boy from Korea yesterday we met in a hotel. 22 years and has studied in Canada. You go on holiday alone. Chatted a bit and then, with Matthew and Charlotte, playing with sand. Make castles, sculptures, bury it .... in short, have fun! Always have lunch at Coco Rico and chatted at length with the brother of Miriam. That's very kind and sympathetic. The coco-loco called coconut with vitamin and pina-colada pineapple defines vitamin! Towards evening, Charlotte makes friends with the guy who leads the banana boat. He has 18 years, graduated as a job but has found just that. But has the project and we hope to achieve. The call then takes us into the boat to Playa Alicia (where our board) so we try also to get drunk by sea! In fact, there fun! And, when landing at Playa Alicia us our Korean friend. Tells us that it fell to see who ever came in a boat at that .... But we are not! CLARO THAT IS!
After a quick shower we all, separately, in the country to buy Christmas gifts that tomorrow evening we shall exchange during dinner, to a Dominican! "With so much talk of custom" - so he decided Carlotta! At dinner we return to the restaurant la Roca for a good thread (maybe the fish begins to tire?). After dinner, but let's just a game of billiards, and go to bed, because tomorrow we expect a very long transfer

Sosua – Rio San Juan – Las Terrenas

Alarm clock at 6:30. No breakfast because Germany did not even buy bread. We drink tea and we are approaching the state to take a guagua. The guagua us away from sight and we charge salaries well together with our backpacks! On this bus 13 seats will be at least a dozen people! We are asking 500 pesos up to Rio San Juan. $ 15, which I seem a bit excessive given the overcrowding ... A middle road we shall change guagua also pienissimo! We are crammed like animals, with backpacks on him and his legs stuck in the back in front. Will be here guagua that are small or will that today is the eve of Christmas, but so far there was ever to travel well. However we are always more comfortable than we hung out of the bus .... We arrive in Rio San Juan (which is not even half way between Sosua and Las Terrenas), and unloaded all the passengers to stop, the driver will make a proposal for 1500 pesos us to Las Terrenas. We all look in the face and, if the alternative is to travel this way again .... Claro you! Accepted, so feel the experience of the "Rent a Guagua"! The road passes between tourist centers and very poor countries. In the streets there are dozens of stalls of fruit and vegetables, carts overflowing of Palmitos, butchers and roasted piglets already! It is the Navidad! The guagua rentado runs like a train ... the driver is not even young but in fact, not having the meter running, probably not aware. Nagu in the area of the coast is not even interesting, the sea is not clean, has a bleak color that turns brown, perhaps because of the many rii resulting in this area. Here there are many rice fields and the landscape could remember the Po valley, where there were palm trees to the background. Around 11:00 we arrive in the peninsula of Samaná. The weather suddenly turns from beautiful in thunderous rain! You must close the windows on the fly (to Charlotte with pliers because it has the crank). From the state at a certain point, avoiding dogs and holes, the bus takes a detour to Las Terrenas, and as if by magic, the landscape becomes flat hilly mountainous indeed. The road climbs between bends and curves in the middle of a splendid vegetation. Forests of palm trees and jungle. We arrive in a dusty village: we are in Las Terrenas. The driver does not know our hotel (it is the Viva Samaná, where we have booked for Christmas) but we say not to worry, take a taxi.
As ever! If I had known that we asked 15 usd for 5 kilometers along ... I would rather them to their data! The Viva Samaná to our arrival appears desert ....
The welcome is friendly and kind, even if not very professional. The customers here are in clear minority but on the animation, in comparison to the Viva Dominicus is formed by several Italian guys, friendly and even kind. The chamber will give us the 15:00, as usual, then go to lunch first. Finished lunch (the restaurant the service is a pain ...), give us the key to the room, but beach towels are not more (we use our patience), the key can not give us this room, the shower arm is broken The terrace of the bulb is burned .... Here are all nice, kind, friendly organization but ... zero! The camera in the other it is very beautiful. It has two double beds on the ground floor and a bed in a loft in the attic, also has a beautiful terrace also provided a sofa. Unfortunate that we are here only two days. The sea is very beautiful. The weather is so so .... But we knew that this part of the coast during the month of December is not the most indicated.
In the afternoon we Sollazzo on the beach, then we merengue lesson. Cocktails at sunset and then we prepare for the evening of Christmas. When we arrive at the restaurant, champagne promessoci is finished! The buffet is very rich and beautiful, the service is always painful. Wine (like the Viva Dominicus) is undrinkable, so we order a bottle fee! At the end of dinner we exchange gifts with a Dominican, and a lot fun! Then there is the spectacle of dance theater. They are also good but I sleep and I fall asleep (you can see that the theater reconciles me sleep). By midnight, the leaders have set up a crib on the beach animated. Really very beautiful. Then, still on the beach, dancing the merengue and salsa. All'una decide to go to sleep even if Charlotte wants to stay and see the people dancing. When I get in the room but found the room to the ice as they left the air conditioner to 15 degrees! So I am back on the beach, where Carlotta dance with a little bit of Latin American (she is very good!).

Las Terrenas

I wake up at 8:30, me preparo good that I drink on the terrace and expect to wake up Giampaolo for breakfast. Even at breakfast the service is lacking. The deck chairs on the beach are already finished but they now are the towels! At 11:00 arriving in a boat down the beach from which Santa Claus with a sack full of gifts for children!
In the afternoon, the weather is beautiful and we also get the deck chairs. Pura Vida! Towards evening, we Hungarians who are here on vacation and chat a bit with them. When we withdraw we discover that there have even redone the rooms, the terrace of light has always burned his arm and the shower is broken! Angry and then I'm going to discuss at the reception! Around 20:00 it triggers the service is to return the rooms, we fill the fridge, lights and shower repair (shame that we leave tomorrow morning!).
Giampaolo after dinner and I sdraiamo on loungers on the beach and .... there asleep! We wake up cold and we reach our children in the disco, where we are late! Tomorrow we have to move the other head of the peninsula and we do not yet know in what way .... The hotel we booked for tomorrow night does not answer the phone ... and not even know exactly where!

Las Terrenas – Limon – Samana

We wake up late, therefore we can not take the shuttle that leaves at 9:00. Patience ... shell out another 15 usd for taxi to the 5 km. to Las Terrenas. But will not be so, because at the time of check out, the shuttle's asks us if we already have a means of transport and where we go .... After a serious negotiation we give up for 45 usd at the Samaná, then that is not but it is between Samaná and Las Galeras Samaná! (NDR: 15 usd, moreover we would only spend up to Las Terrenas and there is not even be discussed because the boys of animation told us that if you lose the shuttle must pay their own pockets for the 15 usd. In Samaná, or at least in this area, taxis are really expensive!). Driving through the town of Las Terrenas, feel the same sensation of the day: a dusty little town, not particularly interesting and messy.
We pass by the area of the Cascades of Limon, but that is not going to see on foot because it takes too long and most of our family did not mount a horse! At 11:30, we are still on the internal roads of the peninsula of Samaná, where the landscape is beautiful and lush nature! Enter the town of Samaná that seems modern, with a lively promenade along the sea, a beautiful marina and many restaurants. We continue and arrive at our hotel ( "ghost") Playa La Tambora, in Los Cacaos. An all-inclusive Italian property found on the internet! It is in a beautiful location, placed on a slope that descends to the sea and that results in a small private bay, with lots of bars and beach service. Pity that the sea is rough.
They give us two rooms that could sleep eight! Are two-storey bungalow with two bedrooms and two bathrooms each! (who knows why we have given two?) it for 40 usd a head all inclusive formula! We know the owner. It is a nice veneto. Some of the bungalow complex were sold to tourists who return year after year. There are also two Italian families with children. The sea is rough and you can not swim .. So there is no time because we must find a means of transport to see the area of Playa Las Galeras and Rincon! Car rental anything! Motorcycle with four wheels ... but we could also rent a cost figure ... (and if I can not drive it?). Ask at reception. Taxi dear .... A guy offers to carry around all afternoon with a truck ... and only for 24 usd. Truck? He explains that it is a truck with seats .... So we decide to make the experience of the "Rent a Truck"! After lunch (not much choice but good food) expect camiones, which is a real truck, with two rows of padded benches placed on either side of the floor and a roof! Everything for us .... Wow! We start in the direction of Playa Rincon!
After forty minutes we take a detour and a few kilometers of dirt road we arrived at the famous Playa Rincon, considered among the 10 most beautiful beaches of the Caribbean. The beach appears deserted. It is wild enough, but at least the first impact, not so beautiful as she imagined. We do a bath in the sea. View from here captures most fascinating, accomplices the lush hills that are the background. From the sea also, do not even notice the dirt and waste scattered on the sand.
We walk towards the end of the beach. Towards the bottom there is a river, which runs along the beach on the left side in the lead up to. In this area of the beach there are so many people, mostly Dominican. Foreign tourists, in addition to us, we have seen only three or four, across the beach. From this side there are also a couple of Baracchini which are to eat! Structures are very simple (to me falls in the head a piece of tent that serves as a roof) but the food must be delicious. Grids comes from an inviting profumino: lobsters! Shame that we have just lunched ... We just sort of two coconut trees and a couple of beers. And one for the driver (the RENT A TRUCK!).
We stop at Playa Rincon far more than expected, because the environment is special. There are entire groups of Dominican eating, drinking, laughing. The music obviously is not lacking and the girls dancing the merengue in Rio. Carlotta and I are trying to imitate ... but better to dance out of the water because the Rio is cold! Some boys play baseball on the beach (one of the most loved sport from the Dominicans). There are also children on the beach, but probably are part of households that cook!
At five o'clock start. We spent just a nice afternoon. Let's take a step up to a fisherman in Las Galeras, then go ahead. We go up to Samaná, where we do a walk through the center. A Samaná there are also motorcycle type carriages tuc-tuc Asian! During the return, our driver downs a bottle of Brugal beautiful, with a stop in the middle of the street to share a toast with a driver guagua, overloaded with passengers ... even on the roof! FELIZ NAVIDAD!
Dinner at the hotel there is a lot of people. This morning there seemed to desert, one sees that they were all on a trip. After dinner there is also the show. Unbelievable but true! The show actually do make the tourists but it is quite fun. Then he dances well (obviously merengue and kissed)!

Samana – Sabana del Mar – Juan Dolio

I wake up at 6:30 (by force ... we went to bed at eleven o'clock ... ..) I walk in a beautiful garden of our hotel to pass the time. There are chickens, hens and a rooster that sings (almost close to the port under the window of our room so you wake up the others!) At eight open bar so I can finally berms tea warm. There are also two kittens, one of the moments in which I sit down for ... .. At ten, a taxi, we head to the port of Samana from where we take the ferry (passengers only) for Sabana del Mar! The ferry part time at 11:00 and tickets them only 15 minutes before departure, so I do not understand why we were advised to come here 40 minutes before! The sea is calmissimo.
The ferry that arrives from the opposite direction is not full .... More! We start on time!
This time on "guagua del mar" (I call the ferry seems too) there are also two French tourists!
The weather is cloudy but nothing tragic. After an hour and a half of land navigation in Sabana del Mar. "landing" ... in the literal sense of the word because a few dozen meters from the shore, because of low tide, we must tranship on smaller boats, which we leading to the shore. Even before you set foot on dry land we propose, taxi, minibus, guagua ... .. But I am 12 and winds and so we agreed to stop first for lunch! Just speak the word "comedor", a nice gentleman there "kidnapping" and takes us to his restaurant! Behind us insistent follows a minibus driver who is proposing to bring in Juan Dolio for 2,000 pesos. "No thanks, take a guagua. But he follows us the same. At the restaurant there is a company of Italian backpacks on your shoulders. Come on! But we discover that are in the World of Adventures. (NDR: Of course that you go to the adventures you have to invent!) Talk a bit with the head, very nice, and we exchange opinions on the trip. I describe how the organization could very well say that, as a propormi escort groups of Adventures! Speaking of places visited so far, it appears that they have a Boca Chica found the absolute desert .... At nine in the evening there was no local open and four cats in the street. We remain astounding! Explain that the evening when we were us, there were dozens of places with tables on the street, restaurants, pubs, music and a lot of people. (NDR: There are two or more was there when we had the feast of the country or when the unit was a day of mourning. Mystery that will not reveal!)
In this restaurant we eat divinely without doubt the best shrimp all'aglio of all Dominican. We spend an idiot, in comparison to the usual, of course. The driver of the minibus is always there. Mica we waiting? The repeat that we take the guagua. Then lowers the bid to 1,500 pesos .... No Thanks. We discover that the minibus that was brought here this morning the handful of Adventures in the World, for this ... so insists, however, must fall! Meanwhile, we order a little bit of extra vejo Brugal, as a digestive. Arriva a French family of two adults and two children. Parents dragged by two huge Samsonite children have backpacks instead. Carlotta asks me why the children have backpacks and parents no ... just because boys are more intelligent! We pay the bill and salute, but the driver of the minibus us another offer: 1000 pesos!. It is more than a good price (with guagua will spend at least 600 if not more) for which we accept! (Thanks also to Adventures in the World!)

Samana – Sabana del Mar – Juan Dolio

Starting at 14:00 and 14:10 all the other members of my family are asleep! Crossing the Cordillera Oriental and the time changes. Become beautiful! The road runs in the midst of cultivated fields and a lot of green. This is an agricultural area. The people here have as their only source of income, the cultivation of fields and herds of animals. Toiling the land, live in simple wooden houses roofed in sheet metal stretch laundry and practically on the edge of the road. At 15:00 we stop in Hato Major, a town located in the center of the Eastern Cordillera, in a café and toilets! From Hato Major in the way through endless fields of sugar cane.
16:30 arrive in Juan Dolio. Tell the driver that the hotel should be approximately equal to the distributor of the Shell, so at least be found on Lonely Planet. Around asking directions to a person and .... speak for at least ten minutes, making gestures and various reports. (It will be so far away ....) And then goes back in the car, running at the first turning left el'albergo is there .... (Who knows what you were ever told?).
Hotel Fior di Loto is owned by un'italiana. Mara of Bologna, who lives six months a year here and six months a year in India, where he also created a foundation for the development of women. The hotel is decorated in Indian style. The background music is Indian. On the first floor there is also a yoga center. The bar area is very relaxing, full of curtains, divanoni and low tables, cushions and many ... .. a cat! But it is a cat so big that Carlotta and I were afraid to bring it closer! What is a puma? No, it is a cat and is called Gnogno (NDR: It must, however, the cat's guard)
We chose this place because, to go in any hotels of its foreign, it was thought that both were worth choosing a particular site. It is cheap and also part of the proceeds goes to the foundation Indiana. The Foundation, explains Mara (which also lets us see many photos) operates an education program for 230 girls, in a tiny town in Rajasthan. Even the consul of the Dominican Republic is a supporter of this Foundation. We ask why has not done anything for the education of the children of the Dominican? He explains that he has tried, but it was not possible. Many legal problems but also social and political rights have prevented the realization of the project. (NDR: Probably the fact that in theory there are schools here, are available for all non dá solid the support of a project in support of education)
The room for four is a little bit, but basically we just need to sleep. It is very bright and breezy. Placed backpacks we look at the main beach, which is a disappointment! The sea is very rough and quite dirty! We explain that there was a violent storm, and when the rivers are discharged in full all the various waste in the sea, therefore, for a couple of days so still! The beach is full of small tables in the entire length of all bars will be ...? ... No rent chairs and tables but the drinks and food you need to carry them yourself. So go ahead. We will stop a guy there asking if we want something to drink .... The answer here is that if you can, willingly. We order two beers a coca cola and fruit juice. It is full of tourists that Dominicans are picnic. Some are also equipped for the barbecue. We ask for the bill. 600 pesos! ... ... 18 usd! But it is crazy! He explains that we must also pay rent chairs and table. But excuse ... for 15 minutes? I incavolo and police detained a tourist. I ask him if he is normal to pay 18 usd for 4 consumazioni. Initially I said no but then began to speak with one of the tables and give you ... The police, while I am out of me, trying to explain to me that I must pay rent chairs and tables! I insist because I had to warn first as did the others. We are foreigners and we are not obliged to know the habits of the place. But there's nothing to do. At the end there shall be accorded to 520 pesos, which are always too many! Worse for them because we do not doubt tomorrow we put foot!
And do not even need because, from the west side compared to the hotel, there is a fabulous bar and restaurant with lounge on the beach are free for customers who consume! (NDR we!) Tomorrow we will go! The beach is also fantastic, sheltered from waves and very clean. Returning to the hotel we stop at a supermarket to buy cigarettes. Ask me ... 60 pesos. Wonder if they are increased? I answered that no, is the price .... "But if we have always paid 50 pesos in the Dominican?" The lady looks at me with very serious air and saying, "Can not." Let us lose .... This village for now there was some good impression!
Return to hotel, get ready and go out for dinner. Ristorante La Grotta Azzurra. The cuisine is Italian (not bad) but definitely not the property, otherwise there would be all the misspellings on the menu! It spends a reasonable figure. After dinner we all to bed!

Juan Dolio

I wake up soon ... and the seven are already in the hall. Mara is already there so we do of the great chat and tells me how to perform his volunteer work in India. Meanwhile, enjoy a the. All my family are asleep. And sleep again, until 10:00 ... I will pass three hours for a chat, with Mara first, then with the Belgian tourists and finally with the French who arrived in the air tonight! Finally, at 10:30 a.m. in the family Grignani manages to escape from! Let's go to the restaurant-bar with a beach that we found last night. It is wonderful! The water will be a bit low to do great swim but it is clear and blue! The structures on the beach are very comfortable and welcome! Cots are real beds with canopy, curtains and sunshades. There are also rocking beds, and beds in the middle of the water (type palafitte). We also give towels. The food is really not care a bit but nothing too well compared to other places in the Dominican. Making a relationship with the quality of the service say that they are more honest! We also carry the bottles of water in the bucket of ice!
12:30 suddenly the sky is covered. So we decide that it is time to eat! Carlotta Matthew and I eat a delicious fish cheviche! They then continue with a plate of ravioli and pizza (NDR. But in Juan Dolio are only Italian cuisine? Perhaps in this town are too many Italian tourists?)
After lunch we return to the sun, which in the meantime, a rebuilt head. Try snorkelling but the water is too low and the rocks are a pile full of beautiful curls even blacks! Sighted only a few fish, one black and one yellow. But I find a nice pair of sunglasses Giorgio Armani. With a good chance they are also true! In the afternoon, we know a family of Riccione, Riccione she is, he is Argentinian and two sons to follow more the friend of the child. I am here already for 6 days and does not envy .... They are cute, so we end the afternoon chatting with them. Their impression of the Dominican is very similar to ours. We decided in the evening to dine together and find a local restaurant Dominicano! There we meet with their guest house to eight. We refer the Gaucho and, after crossing a field fallow (as shortcut), we arrive on the state where just a few meters there is the restaurant! You will not believe it but the Gaucho restaurant has exposed a list of pizzas, pasta dishes, etc.. The chef is Italian and is cooking a steak that is grilled is slowly carbonize! We go back in the country and we are disappointed at Sueno. Even here there is only Italian cuisine but at least the space is more typical. After dinner we decide to go and do four jumps in the disco but the country is a funeral! The only disco is an all-inclusive where we call the figure of $ 18 a head to enter, justified with the all inclusive. We try to negotiate the price but in the meantime, Giampaolo enters to see the environment and discovers that there is none. So we abandon the treaty and there we go to bed.

Juan Dolio – S.Pedro/Macoris – Cuevas M. – Bayahibe

Alarm clock at 7:00 for all! Today we must move to Bayahibe and stop to see the Caves of Wonder, located between San Pedro de Macoris and La Romana (not mentioned by the Lonely Planet!). We have not yet decided to go because that means we do not know if the cave entrance is near the state where the stop guagua or not .... and given that we have below backpacks do not want to risk having to walk miles! We try to ask if Mara is a taxi, which can lead us from here to Cuevas and then expect the taxi ... but it appears sufficiently expensive so we try that with the guagua. Then she tells us that if we do not disturb the taxi is a little break, I know an economic! We need to fix that. In fact, to bring us from there to the caves (with stops in San Pedro at the post), expect with the backpacks in the car and then take us to stop guagua to La Romana, wants only 24 USD! OK! Mara says that but we can not come here to take in front of the hotel (for the quiet life with the taxi drivers of the cooperative of Juan Dolio) then we go on to state wait. NO PROBLEM! On the state are waiting a few minutes, rejecting the various guagua that in the meantime stop to load and then the taxi-man arrives! The machine is not a little break ... but walk.
We stop in San Pedro de Macoris to buy stamps and post cards at the post office (today is the final day as from tomorrow until January 2, everything is closed!) The use is nice but the stamps make them paste to us all and one by one, then stamp them before our eyes. The same scene we have already lived to put in Srilanka! The postcards are 51! Then, since some of the cards should be in Italy and one in Hungary, we ask "why is the Hungary?" The incredulous look (do not know the post office?) "It is in Europe!" Answer. (NDR: who knows if the cards ever arrive?)
Our taxi driver, Delimon, it's nice! It also has the radio in the car ... (not an option that is very strange for the Dominican but judging from your ...). We arrive at de las Cuevas Meravillas around 10:00. (NDR: It could very well come with guagua because the entrance is right on the state, the offices are well organized and we could keep the backpacks and also on this road passing guagua many large and beautiful easy!) After twenty minutes we start the tour with a guide really nice and friendly. Are entering the ns. taxi driver, which seems just happy to see the caves! Before entering the cave you go through a botanical garden very well kept! Explains the various plants, including yuca, from which the Tainos extracted flour for bakery.
The caves are fantastic! We are not lovers of the caves but I must say that these are truly beautiful, well maintained and well-organized. The lighting system is modern. The temperature is cool but not cold. Our guide explains every detail, even in relation to maintenance works. Only 30% of the caves is open to the public, the remaining 70% is still closed to visitors staying there and snakes "cacate" (... and already, we have heard that they like the darkness ...) At the end of the visit, we come to an underground lake, near which, on the walls, there are several vintage tainos pictograms. The cave seems to still not acted as tainos home but it was a temple to worship the dead. The Tainos believed in reincarnation and several pictograms have this basic theme. A legend tells that when a tribal chief died, the beloved wife was buried alive by his side, so that the transition into the next world, they could still be together. I ask timidly if the man beloved of a deceased woman Subissati the same fate ... but has a great laugh! We leave a good tip to our guide, because it was really special, and we take my leave.
I do not understand why these caves are not reported on the Lonely Planet guide (latest edition), since they are open for more than three years! At our caves. taxista us to take us for just 15 usd extra directly to Playa Dominicus. How can you not accept an offer so? So go! The weather is beautiful. We hope that hard ... as in recent days has not been very generous! 12:30 arrive at Bocayate in Bayahibe, Dominicus in the area! It is pretty and the rooms are kept very well (two weeks ago when we had the book had not seen because they were employed)! We put the costumes and now we head to the beach! Eat in the restaurant properties throughout Dominican Bayahibe .... But even here the kitchen is close to more international tastes than to those Dominicans ... Our all'aglio shrimp, for example, or the "colorado" fried Carlotta, are not comparable to those we have so much pleasing to Sabana Sea! They do not know almost nothing. (NDR: Perhaps the exaggerated presence of Italian tourists of all inclusive neighborhood, forcing the restaurant to adapt to their tastes, dosando differently garlic, chilli and various spices to please the refined palate of Italian medium? But it is wrong ... so why not end up cooking Italian nor good nor the Dominican! I am very difficult and critical of the kitchen (because I cook very well) but abroad usually prefer to taste the local cuisine is Italian so I eat all year round and both because of the culture of a country is also the kitchen. But it must be good!)
After lunch, Matthew and Charlotte go to buy two mattresses, so there fun on the waves (now the sea is a bit rough too). Beds for rent there is none for which we adapt to prepare towels on the beach. Carlotta and I, toward the late afternoon along the beach and through the Palace, let's look at the Dominicus Beach! Than two weeks ago there is a confusion ... incredible. The beds are piled one behind the other, empty glasses everywhere, the bar tables dirty ashtrays overflowing with butts of .... What a difference! Since we still have the bracelets to the wrist Carlotta says: "We try to order something at the bar?". Try ... .... Two cocktails! We sit at the table to admire the sunset and I was also Balzani idea to ask for a cigarette to a gentleman sitting at a table along side a group of Italians and Americans. Is raised, friendly, and offers me a cigarette, I am pure light ... I am also a compliment ... I wanted to apologize to tentatively say that I am sorry, but I left the Palace .... Then I realize that the guy in question does not bear even the bracelet and all the others have the vip! E VAIIII ... I must have just caught the mega-director of Viva!! Ahi Ahi Ahi ... Now I go out? A Carlotta escapes me and laugh ... We drink from our cocktail, we retrieve our. mattress (and yes, because we also brought simo!) and we return to our beach! There we know that the Italians for three or four years always come back here in Bayahibe. Have now bought an apartment that will be ready next year. They spend their day on the beach of Bayahibe laid out on towels and children are the largest hand in Dominicus Beach, where you can buy a bracelet for the day!

Bayahibe/Dominicus

At 7:00 are already all around ... sleeping. Barattino on the beach is still closed ... Return to the country but there is everything closed. Finally at 8:00 open a bar and I can drink something hot. When I go back to the hotel, having taken the money at ATMs, Giampaolo I wake up so we go to breakfast. The owners of even the shadow!
At about 9:00 wake up Matthew and Charlotte and we are on the beach. Since yesterday we have commissioned the owner of the restaurant to retrieve them, for this morning at 9:30, a blow that will take us to the natural swimming pool (where there are the starfish), do not want to do later ...


But the concern is unnecessary because it has brought us nothing! Even lobsters for lunch .... Contract a boat with a guy with several kilos of gold hanging around his neck, but the bargain is too hard. For less than 100 usd for three to four hours, we can not win! Before leaving the owner of the restaurant asks us what we want to eat for lunch "So - he says - when you return it's all ready." Carlotta decides not to come because of the fear of a storm, as thick clouds overlooking blacks are on the horizon.
The boatman was very kind and sympathetic. The trip was wonderful. The natural swimming pool a little less ... It would also be nice but there are dozens of boats, hundreds of tourists, loud music and so much noise! Poor starfish ... The cheerful holiday drink the rum, including in the organization. Well ... .. but our boatman had the rum and he offers!
Starfish very few, very rare indeed! Giampaolo, who has been here 30 years ago, there remains even evil.

Bayahibe - NATURAL POOL

Finally, around noon, all the barges hikers leave the three of us and we and our boatman. So we can swim and snorkelling in calm. Sea of stars we see in total only three! I find a great reward in the shell, which originally was to include a huge 'Lambi'.
At about 13:30 we return to base, leaving a nice tip to our friendly captain, and we head to the restaurant. Obviously is not ready ... nothing. Will be ready after only an hour plentiful (thank goodness we had asked in advance what grade for lunch!). In return we found the lobster! Then lunch with fish fry, wine and lobster (fried fish today is cooked very well !!!). After lunch, sea beach and sun! Towards evening Carlotta ago conquests on the beach, three children of Santo Domingo, which also exchange phone numbers. Truly, there is also the sister of one of those to whom "le gusta" Matthew .... but he push off! Then there are also parents. A nice couple who asks us if one of these evenings we have dinner together! What a pity, we leave tomorrow morning. I am really sorry because it was a good opportunity to exchange views with a Dominican family. We have known so many Dominicans throughout our stay, apart of course taxi drivers, tourist guides, boatmen, cooks, etc. .. Return to the hotel at six and seven are already out! We need to buy souvenirs to give to friends! (always the last moment). Unfortunately the beautiful souvenirs like the wooden sculptures are too heavy and bulky ... so we limit ourselves to a pair of jewel in Larimar, rum, cigars and a few canvas naive.
Dinner is booked at our hotel! The chef has prepared one of the best "cheviche" never eaten in South America. It is so good that I do bring the tank where it was prepared (and in which they have advanced a little ...) to empty. So ... do not want it to taste even the owners! Applause TO COOK!
After dinner we all discotheque in the village of Bayahibe, about 10 kilometers. You can take the shuttle bus from Viva Dominicus. It is free and is available not only for Viva but the whole area of Dominicus! The disco was nice and we go home for two and a half! Guys ... wake up tomorrow at seven!

Bayahibe – Higuey – Punta Cana/Bavaro

Seven hours and ... something. we wake up. Pulling the bed down Matthew and Charlotte (who left the right of the room door open) and we leave. We stop along the road to take a commercial coffee Barattino in Italian, but it is closed! But the owner, who sees us, we prepare the coffee and the same. THANKS! We are already at nine on a guagua for Higuey, which in the first leg is almost empty, but at about half way is filled with Dominican, even cute. We exchange for Americans (NDR: Want to see the fury of living abroad have lost the appearance of Italian?).
A change guagua Higuey. This is a bus of 50 people and more resembles a Caribe Tours bus that is not a guagua! We tell the conductor that we must go to the Bavaro and he tells us that asks the driver if they can make a detour. And do !!!.. What kind! We deposited directly in front of the Barcelo complex! And here is to laugh ... because from the various residences come in one or two kilometers on foot! Porter to check our booking and then ask us if we walk away ... "Is there any other way?" - Ask - "No!" - They meet .... So we are. But after a few minutes we collect a shuttle Barcelo of and brings us to the reception of Bavaro Beach. This time we have for which I held a bag with a hand towel, slippers and costumes, as the room, I suppose, but she will go until 15:00. But no! Ce qui a room the damage suffered. Better. The Bavaro is not so well kept, the beach is full of algae ... (do not clean!). The sea is very rough and the water is cloudy. Probably there was a storm here. Time does not augur well. The animation seems not to exist, but probably because it is the last of the year, preparing the show will stay here tonight. After traveling back and forth to the beach, we go to lunch at the restaurant of the Central Beach. The buffet has a great variety of dishes, the food is good, the wine is at least drinkable and the service is more than satisfactory! After lunch begin to focus on large cloud of us blacks and threatening! At some point comes the wind ... and it is so strong that it begins to come the doubt that there is a hurricane coming. We explain that by a couple of days the weather is changing ... time passes from the beautiful to the violent storm! (NDR: Now we understand why the beach seemed so ill-kept!). After the whole afternoon going to the beach to the roof of the bar, we go in camera! Phone at Punta Cana for sure that the flight is confirmed tomorrow evening but .... I say that has not Martinair flights to Amsterdam in the evening but only in the afternoon and with a different flight number? I worry (of course) but after several phone calls, the answer is always the same. I decide to postpone the resolution of a problem tomorrow. Tonight is the last of! Let's go to dinner. Central to the restaurant there is a long row, and then we decide to go to the restaurant on the beach, so the menu this evening is the same everywhere! Evening falls the anniversary of the chain Barcelo (75 years) for which we have made some gifts: a bottle of rum and extra vejo Dominican Bambolina Collection! The row at the beach restaurant was the most short ... but we have hurt our calculations because, as the restaurant is smaller and more romantic, people will retain more! After half an hour because we are still there. Soon we will also all have a little hangover because they have to forgive the delay, continue to offer prosecco (also good !!!). The dinner will be excellent! Various appetizers, avocado soup, grilled lobster (a whole-head!), Sorbet, beef tenderloin and grilled desserts. The wines are excellent! Matthew but only manages to eat everything. The only sore point is that we end the dinner almost midnight and then the show, which must have been very beautiful, we can not see it.
Certain that if time had permitted, would probably set up the dinner by the pool ... but it is cold, raining and there is wind. Let's go to bed relatively early. From the terrace of the room throw my old shoes (port well throw away something old to the first of the year, no?) HAPPY 2007!

Punta Cana/Bavaro - Amsterdam

i wake up at 7:30 and the phone in amsterdam martinair. i confirm that the flight is tonight and is on time. recall the airport of Punta Cana where in fact they tell me that everything is ok. then employees yesterday evening were already hangover? giá celebrated the new year's eve? i have done well to worry about!
i go to reception to ask if we can keep the room until 17:00. no problem, you pay a difference of $ 25 in total. time, unfortunately, is always bad and the rain does not abandon us. after lunch we can enjoy an hour of sunshine (miracle!), then prepare for the luggage. at 17:00 we take a taxi and go to the airport. at last give the pens a porter, who wanted to carry your luggage (but with the backpacks do not need), so you can take them to her children. the plane is in perfect time.

what we remain in this journey?
belle of the beach Punta Cana, Bayahibe, Sosua, las terrenas fun and the city of Boca Chica.
panoramas of the beautiful Jarabacoa and unspoiled nature of the samana peninsula.
the historical center of santo domingo ... ... ... and the music everywhere!
but we been in is also somewhat sad.
do not forget the sguardi velati melancholy of many children that are probably not even a school.
there scordia shyness the people of simple or easy to close the memory of the dominican ricchi with their grosse and harsh chains of honor the neck.
in our mind will live for several time images of simple wooden cassette without windows and roofs with in sheet metal, as opposed to luxury villas with kilometers twist of barbed wire above the cancellation.
it may sound we still hear notes of kissed, reflecting their sorrow background, and the pace of merengo, allegra façade for tourists.
and we also remains in some of rabies for the fate of a country rich in both the wonders of nature as a disproportionately poor social level. a country where no perception no hope for growth and poverty where it seems to be only to generate other poverty, and prostitution, begging, delinquency.
tourist resorts in infrastructure are virtually all of foreign ownership. not only big resort, as is also conceivable but all the little bar, i supermarkets, restaurants, rooms for rent, rent a car to the agencies that organize tours, stalls, etc ... etc ... mediamente the dominic is just pure labor.
less than a month and too little to understand if the people that has no steps or if that is the government to encourage the foreign post to grow its population. for example with education, with funding for facilities and activities start small.
certain is that this is a country where i live i could never but where, if one day the things change, as i hope, i could back on vacation!