Colors, history, laughters and spirituality in Mexico. Story of a journey across Yucatan and Chiapas

"Life is a journey, travel is to live twice" Omar Khayyam, Persian poet of the twelfth century ... ... Perhaps never, as in this trip to Mexico, I realized how true is this sentence, what is the time, in travel, to alter its inexorable slide, and dilate on the faces, landscapes, the sounds and smells that fill the minutes of a day, otherwise, whatever.
It is perhaps for this reason that the memories of emotions, landscapes and looks only cross, they remain indelibly etched in memory

 

Arrival in Playa

After two years of waiting finally touched down in Mexico, but for now it is still difficult to realize that I'm realizing a dream long cherished. In Cancun welcomes us look heavy, damp and uncomfortable for some time that makes us regret the pressurized air that has wrapped for the twelve-hour flight across the Atlantic.
But notice the nonsense we move immediately to withdraw our Hunday Dodge light blue sky that will bring us wandering through this beautiful country.
We head immediately to Playa del Carmen and as soon as we leave the airport, we realize what are the Topes and vibradores Mexicans. Other than curbs! ... If taken at high speed could make us take off immediately to Italy .. not to mention vibradores not erotica, but half balls of metal firmly planted on the ground and the size of a palm smooth, which have primarily function to make you slow down and secondly, to support the category of mechanics.
Even the signs indicating the speed limits are worth a note ... went from 90 Km / 40 and then again at 60l all over 4 / 5 km, and with no apparent logic ... .. at least for us ... ... then you might as well keep a fairly quiet pace.
In about an hour, however, we reach Playa del Carmen and, without major difficulties, we also find the lodging that we had booked for this first night. Maria Bonita is truly a nice pousada, painted yellow, blue, red, orange and green, is overlooking a small pool in the center of the garden. After a quick shower we begin the search for the village that will host the end of our tour and we want to leave the large bags, but probably start to feel fatigue and not finding anything. We are shooting a bit 'along the Avenida V which is really very nice and decided it was time for dinner. Our choice falls on a little place located right in front of a colorful souvenir of Chiapas - our next destination - and we start our "Mexican diet with two enchiladas delicious. Now, however, sleep is taking over, so, after buying some provisions for the next day, back to our pousada and colorful fall blessed the arms of Morpheus.

Laguna Bacalar

We wake up at dawn - not unexpectedly - and it's time to reorganize the suitcases ... .. The sky did not bode well: blacks announce dense clouds rain. A little disappointed we are waiting to open the bar to make a pousada breakfast while we talk with a local boy. Naturally, Mexico is not quite half an hour half an hour ... ... is a bit 'more, but do not know how, then we go into the Fifth Avenue to have breakfast, deliver the luggage to the village - this time we find no problems - and .. . away! It starts to discover Mexico.
Among Topes and vibradores - always present and in massive quantities - in an hour we arrive at Tulum, but given the bad weather we decide to not stop and proceed directly to Bacalar.
I am a little 'disappointed by this Mexico ... .. short .... For years the dream of coming here and he welcomed me so ... ... mouse gray clouds and rain! Batter's more!
This weather makes me doubt a bit 'on the feasibility of the route that we planned to take, and I seriously fear of having to change.
La carretera leading to Bacalar is a strip of asphalt that cuts through impenetrable forest, the walls, deep green, stand on either side of the road, we travel a bit ... ... the 'Moscow through some small town ... but a little seedy little rain falls and you begin to glimpse the horizon of small scraps of blue. Upon our arrival in Bacalar (300 Km in about 4 h) the sun will succeed even peeking through the clouds!
Now we find the Hotel Laguna Bacalar, where I had planned to stay. The hotel is clearly visible from the carretera thanks to the structure a little 'kitsch painted green and white with pink roofs. Now just give us a room (690 pesos) which directly overlooks the famous lagoon of seven colors, and after we relaxed a bit ', let's start off in exploration. We head straight for Cenote Azul and a small hill we can see the lagoon from above. Maldives is known as a landscape, perhaps a comparison is a bit 'too much, but it is really beautiful! Taking some photos and then go on to the cenote. The Cenote Azul is very large and its waters dark and deep contrast with the 90 mt lighter tones of the lagoon, from which it is divided only by a thin strip of land. Lunch and then we go to visit the town of Bacalar and the fort of San Felipe. It was built in the 17th century as a defense against pirates and still in good condition, a little wander around and then, having nothing else to do, let's put a little 'feet to soak in this water so crystal clear. The sky is again covering, but all in all it went well!
At 18 I am already in a coma and struggling to stay awake until dinner, so wander around to kill time between the different steps of the hotel which has direct access to the lagoon and even a chapel. Reigns absolute peace and, after supper, we go to sleep .... Even if, however, there is much more to do.

Transfer Palenque

05:15 hours we are already standing. My husband I have never seen so awake at this hour (but the time zone is my accomplice) and, incredibly, I did not even want to bite anyone who addresses me. Today we are expecting a long and, if we're lucky, even the ruins of Palenque! We close the bags and, prior to sunrise, we're already in the car. While we have breakfast with chips, cookies, chocolate and coca cola, we encounter the first checkpoint. We stop and the cop asks us to open the trunk, looking grim. Seems anything but sympathetic, but as soon as we hear in Italian, attitude changes completely. Not interested in anything in the trunk, you print a smile on his face, and a word there a nice flight!
After a good two hours up to me to take the wheel. Impenetrable forest has gradually left its place to the forest first and then cultivated fields and haciendas. The road is never crowded and all in all, very viable. Honestly I expected a lot more dilapidated roads.
Near a village we again stopped by a solitaire and jovial staff member who probably just wants to deceive boredom. It asks us where we are going - not that there are many alternatives - if we are married, etc.. When I asked if the road to Palenque is in good condition after the flood last month, he replies with a gallant "serious mentiroso si le decía que no" (more or less said so ... but my Spanish has some 'gaps). Well ... we do not give much weight to the fact that the road might not be in good condition and we get to where we Escarcega a short step. It's only 09:30 and then Palenque not miss much.
Actually a little "Mentiroso" I was really in fact, the road to Palenque is revealed in good condition, except the work begun. This stretch of road is definitely much more traffic. American-style big trucks run at high speed, in fact resumed driving my husband.
Shortly after noon we are at Palenque (490 km time 6.5 h). Unfortunately, my miscalculation, we're going to find our hotel and headed toward the center of town ... we had not ever done ... .. this error we have less than three quarters of an hour ... There's a party, and many roads are blocked to traffic. We are behind a super tour bus that almost fits between the machines in a way rather narrow. By maneuvering to stitch, the driver manages to extricate himself without breaking any of the cars that were parked. How he did still very fit.
As soon as we resume the main road ... a few hundred meters, we find our hotel (Maya Tulipanes - 690 pesos a room). Let's check in in a hurry, go and get packed up and departure for Palenque. Ruins close at 16:30 and we still have enough time to visit them.

The site of Palenque

We arrive at the site and decide to take a guide who accompanied us. In fact they want a very high price (50 euros), but not contracts more than it first because we have so much in a hurry to enter the site and secondly because you see one Km away that I want the guide. The choice will prove, in fact, apt and explanations of the Nile will be useful even in sites that we will see later armed only LP.
Palenque is surrounded by tropical forest, which was torn by great works and to which he seems to want to return to the distraction of man.
It is said that the best time to visit both in the morning when the morning mist envelops creating a particular effect. Instead, we see it in the afternoon but it is cloaked in a halo particles: the sun, falling very early (around 17:00), wraps around the temples and palaces in warm and bright. Will not be the magic of the morning, but a charm. For my husband is a return, because in Mexico there was already 10 years ago, but at the same time is a new discovery since the last visit was very rushed.
We advance the site and getting into the Nile tells the story of Pacal, the ruler of Palenque: crowned king by his mother for only 12 years he ruled his city for several decades. We smile at the physical description of this king is so important, cross-eyed, limping, and with the typical head crushed and we are amazed at his knowledge of architectural and cosmological as well as for his intelligence.
After a brief pause Nile shows us the "mimosa pudica" a grass that only touch the leaves close to the tree ceiba - the plant sacred to the Maya - who's in front of the palace of Pakal.
At this point we begin the real discovery of the site. Palenque is one of the few sites where you can still get on the palaces and temples. We visit the Temple of Inscriptions, where it was found the coffin of the Red Queen (Queen unusually high for the average age and race maya) and soon after we go to the Palace.
An architectural detail that goes unnoticed is the arc Maya Palenque and only if they are also a double row. It 'amazing how some parts of these "strings" are still standing, defying all laws of gravity. Offenders are emblems of the time-worn temple was destroyed by successive conquests and even the bathrooms, female and male, connected directly to the sewer where you can see a part of discovery.
A detail not to be underestimated is that all the buildings and sculptures were made without knowledge of the metal and using simple stone tools.
Another feature that explains the Nile is that Pacal is often depicted seated in the lotus position, typical posture reminiscent of Buddhist meditation. You really think that there is an invisible thread that unites cultures so distant in time and space.
While wander around the Palace, Nile explains that in the Mayan culture were the kings and nobles to undergo sacrificial practices providing for the payment of blood to the gods and the sun, while the mass killings, those best known, were made in periods later during the Aztec domination.
After the visit to the palace ascend the Temple of the Cross, where you can admire the whole of Palenque, the expanse of forest that surrounds and protects and hides the mythical bird colorful quetzal feathers.
The Cross and the Cross Foglia (a stylization of the ear of corn) are two other elements of the Maya spiritual symbolism that often end up on sites and in Chiapas.
After the tour we stop to buy one of the many Mayan calendars that sell paintings on skin within the site, but trembles Nile .... Before the closure of the site wants to take us quite a bit 'in the forest around. Humidity and the mosquitoes are the masters but still interesting. Covered with vegetation, there are still many half-destroyed buildings that perhaps will never see the light, but are used to give an idea of what the complex of Palenque was extended. During this walk I have the opportunity to ask informations about a particular plant that I had noticed before and that has the trunk and polished bronze. It is jokingly called the "tourist map", it has precisely the distinction of being red and peeling in the sun.
But now it is time to go, the more that we met last look at the palace and head exit, where again I admire beautiful charm croton blaze.
Now that we left the magic of Palenque we find that we also have a hungry, not to lose time, because we really have lunch. So we are granted a snack of tacos at a restaurant off site.
Returns to the hotel and do a quick patrol. It 'a very nice hotel, the room is spacious and welcoming, but now we need a shower and a little' relaxation before dinner.
The evening a crowd celebrating in the garden, do not know what. Traditional Mexican music and themed decorations, all white, red and green colors of the country ... it's a shame to think that in Italy the Italian flag-except on official occasions - sticking almost exclusively during the World Cup and here - as in other countries of Latin America - we find it virtually anytime, anywhere. Quick ride and then to bed, the day was long and intense ... San Cristobal tomorrow!

San Cristobal de las Casas

Today we allow ourselves a bit 'more sleep, even if the road to San Cristobal is all curves, are "only" 200 km! leave right after breakfast and soon we reach the waterfalls of Misol-ha. and 'soon there is very few people. the waterfalls are nice, but nothing that was not for the fact that the sun is still rising and gives us very good images of its beams sprouting from the top of the falls and slips through the trees. we stop time for a little 'photo and then distributed at a time of Agua Azul. This morning I'm there to guide and, among the jeers of my husband, can not be overcome by good two buses. it might not impress, but the road to San Cristobal is composed of an endless series of corners and wide enough for two cars to pass, let alone if it is so normal to be overtaken by tourist bus. I feel for a bit 'to keep up with these fools who know by heart every Topes, hole and corner, but gives up very soon. are fools! Finally we arrived at Agua Azul. even here there are very few people because it's pretty early and even today is a beautiful day. Agua Azul is truly beautiful with its turquoise waters, and almost an hour we stop to take pictures and relax. buy two bananas from a very nice boy and returning to the road to San Cristobal. We go from Ocosingo, a town known as the Zapatista rebel base and takes the seat my husband. I can relax a little, because between curves and Topes, the road is quite challenging and requires constant attention in the meantime, the vegetation around us has changed, as well as clothing for women. from blouses "huipiles" the white and dark skirt with colorful embroidered belts too colorful, it moves to a typical dress of the natives of the mountain. Time is changing and is coming to an ugly, but never mind. the last stretch of road is very heavy. we face giostrai big trucks that go to San Cristobal - is celebrating a saint - and it's really impossible to overcome. cruising speed is obviously very low, and we wonder what it will take to get there. Fortunately the boys perched on top of these big trailers, as soon as the opportunity presents itself, you improvise traffic controllers and make us see that we can overcome them. After about 4.5 h (excluding stops) and under a heavy rain, we arrive in San Cristobal. tropical forest has been replaced by pine forests and the air is very crisp, on the other hand, we are at 2100 meters of altitude! the outskirts of this city so famous, I disappoint. Petrol stations and car dealers. ... it was not that I expected! soon as we enter the town, however, I find it really that much vaunted gem ... pity about the rain. We will then research the hotel where my husband had stayed 10 years ago. in his memory is a must because, after having eaten and slept badly the worse for several days, the hotel for him and his friends, he meant the physical and moral rebirth. Hotel Catedral is, needless to say, a few minutes from the cathedral, has valet parking and covered and although it is a 5 * offer us the choice between double and, for a negligible difference, the presidential suite. I watch my husband and it's like seeing a child in front of a jar of Nutella & without even asking who I know will be his choice (in fact two nights in a suite with breakfast cost us less than renounce sin ¬ 90.00). Our suite Chamula is really very beautiful! great, with three windows overlooking the main street, of course, the bath is adjusted to rest. nevertheless ... time to remove something a little 'heavier the suitcase and we are already on the street. Meanwhile the rain stopped and although there are still clouds blacks, you are assured. reach the cathedral and the first thing we calle ... Adelina Flores. My interest in this street is due entirely to a book by the writer Marcela Serrano - "what's in my heart" - I read several times. and 'set in San Cristobal and in this street who lives queen, the woman around which winds the whole story told. Once found, it is a parallel of the main, we take a walk - and peek in the various patios that lurk behind the facades of many colorful houses. I do not know what I hope to find, if the house of queen or chissachè .. certain is that we find beautiful hotel with patios and almost a little sorry 'to be immediately landed catedral. walking we reach the beautiful church of Santo Domingo, where every day is held on the market for indigenous Chamula. One thing is certain, I know I can make purchases. ... and even several. the market is a riot of colors: huipiles, Serap, wool sweaters, pochos, embroidered tablecloths, leather belts and not ... basically impossible not to buy. who thinks in San Cristobal immediately imagines the famous cathedral at sunset yellow and burgundy, when the sun hits it directly, it turns to golden yellow. in fact the church of Santo Domingo is perhaps even more beautiful with the pink facade and entirely "embroidered" engraved. The nearby church parade is a celebration, pine needles covering the front steps and a floral arch above the door. we celebrate the Virgen de la Caridad "and then you party! wander around a bit 'between the stalls and various shops. San Cristobal offers great prices a bit 'everywhere and the best exchange rate we found in our whole trip. on the way back to our hotel we discover a tradition a bit 'weird that makes us laugh. we come and get us a Coke in a little place and ask us if we stop to drink it on the spot or taken away. when I say that we intend to take it away, it appears a clear bag - such as ones to freeze - and the coca cola bottle to go straight from the bag that is closed with a knot in which the girl puts a straw. my astonishment is such that I begin to giggle trying not to burst out laughing ... but blatantly is stronger than me. trying to hold back the tears and I pay when I leave with my bag of coca cola tears me scratch her cheeks. My husband takes a few seconds to realize why I'm laughing ... and when he sees the bag hard to connect it to the fact that Coca Cola is in there ... the glass is to make .. here is revealed the mystery. come out to dinner tonight, I am very tired and so we decide to take advantage of the hotel kitchen. The choice turns out to be anything but good idea, but never mind. we make two steps to the cathedral and paraded through the streets in procession, preceded by a mariachi band in ceremonial dress, dedicated to St. Cecilia ... it's true the saying that in Mexico is celebrated forever? the evening, the square of the cathedral lit is very suggestive, as the arcade side, but our walk is short, and after a brief stop in one of the countless Interpoint of San Cristobal, finally sleeping!

San Juan Chamula and Zinancatan

We wake up early and, before his appointment with the Senora Mercedes, we have time to walk in this beautiful town. It seems incredible to be right here in San Cristobal and are happy. There's a special air this sunny morning. The houses painted in bright colors stand motionless in the still, clear, crisp, and the traffic is still limited and the distance you see a slight haze rests somewhere that seems like a hat forgotten. Even Marcos el'Ezln were here and, certainly, they are not that far away now either ... .. Continued to walk for hours in the alleys colors but at 09:00 we meet at the Zocalo with Senora Mercedes. He soon find it, because, as indicated in the guidelines LP, has with it the inevitable colored parasol. We buy the half-day excursion and we are waiting for the bus arrivals (180 pesos each) that will take us to the villages of San Juan Chamula and Zinancantan.
Unfortunately Senora Mercedes does not come with us and arrange for another guide. I'm sorry because I had heard very well and now seems to be an institution in San Cristobal, but never mind.
The village of San Juan Chamula. ... Well, not exactly a village but is a small town that lives according to the rites and rhythms archaic. In San Juan, people are dressed in traditional native costumes: men wearing ponchos of the species above the normal trousers, while women's blouse and skirt black fur of sheep, in both summer and winter. Chamula I do not like being photographed, so if you want to do is to ask permission, but is rarely granted.
Let's take a stroll through the village and in front of a green cross, adorned with pine branches, our guide explains the symbolism of the cross / cross leaf in the Christian religion / maya. Indeed here, the two religions have merged so as to create a harmonious blend of ancient culture and new religion. This concept is a bit 'complex, we will understand better later when we visit the church of San Juan. I look forward to visiting this church that all show to be very particular. Externally the church of San Juan is very simple: three arches green floral motifs adorn the entrance door, the rest is painted in white candidate who stands under the warm rays of sunshine that illuminate today.
The entrance to the church, however, transports you to another dimension, another world. Entering the church has, in a sense, the feeling of entering a forest of conifers in a sunny day. The church is in fact quite dim and assails you at the smell of pine needles scattered on the ground in remembrance of the prayers made in pre-Columbian forests, mixed with the smoke of hundreds and hundreds of candles lit in front of several saints.
Although a Christian church is absolutely different from the imaginary town that has a church and is imbued with a spirituality perhaps different, but very heartfelt and real.
There are benches and kneelers it, it confessionals but please sit down on the pine needles. There are some families, many women, in groups, with the children or themselves, as they pray and stick on the floor, through the dripping wax, other long, thin candles.
Before a gathering of so many saints, there is a whole family, with the help of some kind of officiating that acts as an intermediary with that particular saint, asked pardon for one of its members ill. These rituals, explains our guide, are particularly costly for Chamula, who must pay, not just the officiating, but also bottles of coca-cola and chicken to be sacrificed to the holy asked. The use of coca-cola as a gift to the saints has replaced the use of the posh, an alcoholic beverage that has a dark and much more expensive.
The chickens to be sacrificed today are more than one, but unless steps are taken carefully, almost do not realize it. The entire ritual takes place in a very quiet and the feeling is that they are intruders, accepted by grace or need to watch closely what concerns the lives of these people.
Another peculiarity is that the altar, the central position is occupied by St. John the Baptist, as Christ is crucified to his left, like a figure in the background. Even Baby Jesus is seen in a somewhat 'different, it is not worshiped as the child who was Christ, but as a figure in itself.
It is difficult to leave this place of worship a little 'unusual, a little' magic, and so full of deep spirituality, but I think I have already taken advantage of the availability of enough to have access to this site so be with my husband outside.
I get angry a little 'when he confessed that he had secretly filmed a few minutes inside the Church. E 'expressly forbidden aviation repeatedly requested not to be a cunning ... but can not help but feel a surge of joy, some image of this place I will take with me not only in memory.
The square outside another cross adorned with pine needles at the base is an inscription to commemorate the visit of Pope John Paul II. Already during his apostolate came here too!

After doing a little 'purchases at the market of San Juan - which is more expensive than that of San Cristobal - allocated for the village of Zinancantan. We stop for a brief stop at the cemetery of San Juan Chamula, which lies near a church that caught fire .. and here we discover the reason why some saints in the main church had lit candles. It was the Saints that would have protected the "old" church, but not having done properly, are a sort of punishment, so no candles and prayers .... also this is Mexico.
Zinancantan village is about 7 Km from San Juan Chamula, but the clothing of the natives totally changed. Women wear dresses in fact finely embroidered in shades of blue, blue and turquoise. We are accompanied by a family who is willing to show his house to tourists. Women in traditional dress are weaving a lot of cloths that are sold everywhere and gives us another of freshly prepared tacos and a taste of posh.Sulla way back again in yet another procession Zinacantan come across a few santo.Nel afternoon once back in San Cristobal, we are dedicated to shopping. Purchase many things for me and my friends, from a wooden cross painted in a floral bedspread fabric in the colors of Guatemala to a Christmas tree fabric frame ... anyway ... Fortunately, the bags were too heavy when we arrived ... What I do not buy the photographer, because the stalls are a riot of colors that deserves to be immortalized.
This evening we can admire the Cathedral in all the splendor that give the rays of the setting sun. We ran around a little 'for the center and after a stop at the hotel, which allows us to take a shower, LP in hand we go out to dinner.
We drive by Emiliano's Mustache, is recommended by the guide that does not disprove anything, in fact, eat well and meat tacos, spending about 16euro in two. We said goodbye to this beautiful town with a last walk to the cathedral and the arcades, tomorrow, unfortunately, is already time to leave.

Transfer to Campeche

Left San Cristobal at dawn, I try to save as much as possible of this place, from pine forests to the valley fog still shrouded morning ... for me it's always hard to detach myself from the places they affected me deeply. My husband however is already projected toward the next stage: Campeche ... but it takes several hours before arrivarci.A Ocosingo take me again driving the car and shortly after, we stop at a souvenir shop on the street who also baths. Also on this occasion we have no way to have a chat with the owner, to which we ask for a coffee, combining our idea of souvenir bath + = "Autogrill". In fact the lady does not offer this type of "relief", however, goes to prepare a coffee directly into the house. Because he does not want to be paid, buy a pair of pouch to thank you for your gentilezza.Dopo the usual 4 ½ hours of travel we arrive in Palenque, where we stop for lunch. At a price of around discrete 6euro panzio more than half chicken spit, coca cola and mashed beans and two bananas. Departure for Campeche driving puts my husband.
Mexico and clouds, was never more apt song ... In fact the clouds, on the whole, we support you every move. But there are clouds high, closed and dark we're used to seeing from us. Low clouds, clear leaning here and there or better. ... suspended in midair. It 'a phenomenon that I have ever seen it so clear and really nice to watch them grind miles to our new stage.
For Escarcega we stop for a short break and resume I am driving. Between Palenque and Campeche cross many American style truck, often with two trailers and we can not help but photograph someone. The drivers run at very high speeds, it's okay that the roads are completely straight for long stretches ... ... but really are really mad. On the other hand they seem to have special protections from the Bom Jesus, seeing the many prayer cards and stickers - "God loves me" or "protect me" - which we often see on cars and trucks. Certainly will have his work cut out to protect this gang of would Schumacker ...!
The state of Campeche is noticeably richer than those traversed so far, such as Quintana Roo and Chiapas. This is what we suffered from the condition of the road surface and the countries that are crossed, much more orderly and well kept.
We reach Champoton and, for the first time, we spot the Gulf of Mexico. Champoton is a town that we pass through quickly, now lacks very little in Campeche. We gasoline and I give the wheel ... I am now exhausted.
We arrive in Campeche and are fast enough that one of several hotels in which I had documented. And 'the Francis Drake hotel very nice colonial style, with covered parking, but expensive compared to the standard Mexican (cica 900 pesos double), however it's ok, I'm really tired and I would not do to look for another accommodation we left early and we milled about 570 Km in about 9.5 h ... I'd say that is enough for today!
But my husband wants to see Campeche shivers ... ... so after about an hour of relaxation we are back on the road. In planning the trip I had considered Campeche only for a stopover to break the journey, in fact I will give a nice surprise. We go from the hotel which has already fallen in the evening and discover that we are really short walk from the zocalo, in fact after a few minutes we turn a corner and we are in front of the cathedral lit up beautifully. I was not expecting and I must say that there remains enthusiastic.
We ran around a bit but it starts to drizzle, so we repair to the patio at the center of the square and wait for steps flipping through the guide. We read that right there in front is a small museum where it is playing a typical house of the colonial era and so let's give it a glance. This museum is very small, but worth a quick visit, to take a ride into the past of this beautiful town. We go to dinner at the Parroquia, a family restaurant recommended by LP, a short walk from the zocalo, where I taste the famous "Pan de Cazón", a typical dish of Campeche. My husband decided to try a traditional Mexican dish that is ... ... the veal cutlet. This time envy him a bit 'but ... the Pan de Cazón (a tortilla stuffed shark and drowned them tomato) is not quite to my taste, but at least I tried! (P & 330 pesos).
Once we had dinner close to the sea and then return immediately to the hotel, the tiredness has now taken the upper hand on both ... so nanna!

Uxmal and Merida

As usual now, we wake up quite early and we head to the restaurant Marganzo to make a typical Mexican breakfast (and that was enough ... is not the Pan de Cazón) .. based tortilla, tortillas, beans, onions and tomatoes. This time, however, are more than happy with the choice ... I think right at home I drink just a little 'you with some cookies!
The restaurant is very nice and we spend 130 pesos for two.
The day today includes a visit to Uxmal and then transfer to Merida, so we have time to stroll into town. Cathedral view day ... really ugly! Nothing to do with the effect of the evening. We take a few photos at the Zocalo and then we head towards the sea. Frequently visited by pirates - not by chance staying at Francis Drake - was surrounded by ramparts of protection and even the homes retain the habit of grates on the windows a bit 'like the town of Trinidad in Cuba for a walk a bit' and I never tire of it, I love this town of low houses and colorful.
To have the record, I can not miss a note on clothing typical of women of this area. Because of the hot and humid climate the skirts of wool from sheep of indigenous of Chiapas have been replaced by the long huipiles to below the knee fresh airy (almost like short nightgowns), but a heritage which unites these hupiles to those of Chiapas ... the colorful embroidery, which never fail.
In Campeche I allow myself a small souvenir that well represents this city. A small fan in the straw, with the press of the cathedral ... Perhaps because of the small museum visited, of the pirate tradition, the grates on the windows for me Campeche is a city where, once, spoiled girls, daughters of wealthy merchants, lounged in garden lazily fanning awaiting fresh evening breeze ... this is why a fan!
In a couple of hours we arrive at Uxmal ... ... the famous site of the Pyramid dell'Indovino. The Pyramid is indeed an imposing building, it is impossible not to be fascinated and excited about the ancient Maya and the whole site turns out to be extremely interesting. Predominates here, with the plumed serpent, the mythological figure of the god of rain Chaac Mol, featuring a kind of a trunk.
The "Quadrangle of the Nuns' proves to be a really very beautiful and elegant building, built in pink stone, is richly decorated with numerous masks of the god and motifs that recall the rhomboid scales of the snake's hard to believe that even in this case, these skilled artists and architects were not aware of the use of metals!
The sun is shining and it's very hot but, fortunately, there is always something that every cloud we can not give fully roasted. The site of Uxmal is really lovely, there are many trees, several iguanas sunbathe and tourists are not very many, you can breathe a peace and silence guess at other sites. The photos, of course, sprecano.Dal Quadrangle of the Nuns came to us first field of pelota - how the hell they did to play, God only knows! - And then just get on the Governor's Palace, which is also impressive and richly decorated.
From the back of Government House can climb on the only visible face of the "Great Pyramid". I am not very convinced of this ascent ... but above all, I am not convinced of how am I going to get off! What convinces me is to see a Japanese woman of a certain age ... if he has made her ... even I can go there! Just reached the top I repent of my "audacity", even if the spectacle of the site surrounded by forest and the high seen in all its completeness, repays the thought of having to get off.
We ... now what? Looking down from the pyramid one gets the impression that the steps are put into practice as a vertical ladder. Actually it is not really so, and if you do not suffer from vertigo, the descent is more than feasible. However I do not trust too much and I adopt the method of descent on all fours with his face to the pyramid. So it is much easier ... my husband and I laugh a little film ... I 'not, are concentrated and, of course, Grumpy.
We ran around a little 'for this wonderful site and then we head to the exit, where we stop to eat.
To set out to Merida, where we arrive in just over half an hour (235 km total time 3.5 h). The hotel we chose was Dolores Alba, quite popular among those traveling with do-it-yourself. It 'pretty near the center of the city and seen from the outside is quite decadent. The interior however is completely different. It has a large covered patio with a tree in the middle, is decorated in a vaguely colonial and is even equipped with a swimming pool. For 459 pesos we have a double room with air conditioning, very simple but more than decent.
Merida is a bustling city that attracts us specifically, then we decide to give us a little 'relaxation in the upper patio of the hotel, quiet and secluded from the noise esterni.Usciamo then to explore a bit' the city, which being Saturday evening, preparing for a night of celebration with singing and dancing in the street.
In Merida you are spoiled for choice with restaurants, so we opt for dinner in a softly lit patio ... the perfect side dish for a romantic dinner ... even if our clothing is more in theme with the Indiana Jones romance of the place. Come and visit one of several "Casas de Artesanias" - anyone who stops in Merida has a house to advise de Artesanias - Where to buy a plate of ceramics, souvenirs typical of this city and having wandered around a bit 'in the chaos of the Zocalo, we retreat in the quiet of our hotel.

Chichen Itza

In the morning we look to the city that is much more quiet and then we start early enough to visit the famous Chichen Itza (130 km time 1.5 h), before the mass arrival of tourists from the Riviera Maya.
It 'still early and we can enjoy the site safely. The Pyramid of Kukulcan there is striking for its perfection and grandeur even though I realize I prefer the buildings of Uxmal, but it is still early to make judgments. We can photograph at will, and with the clouds that run fast in the sky, each picture is a bit 'different and a bit' like the many that are around. Imitating these children find that if you clap their hands in front, feels like an echo that makes a tightrope that is vibrated, sin is no longer possible to visit the throne room that is inside the pyramid.
The Temple of the Warriors with an adjoining room with a thousand columns attracts my attention in a particular way, I wonder how he could be at the time of the Maya ...
The golf game of Pelota is really impressive at Uxmal and whether I wondered how they could get to the center, here it seems particularly impossible. The circle is placed, in fact, at a height such as to be unlikely be able to hit it without the help of hands and, especially, considering the height, not just by basketball players, the Mayan era. But perhaps it was better that way, as the player to succeed, was awarded the honor of being beheaded in sacrifice to the gods, as is illustrated by scenes carved on the sides of the field.
As front of the pyramid of Kukulcan, also here is sufficient to produce a clapping sound echoes. Starts to get really hot and the field of pelota is the least suitable place where to rest. There is absolutely no shade, so we head to the Sacred Cenote through a shady street in the forest.
In the Sacred Cenote, is said were found numerous remains of human bones as evidence of the large number of sacrifices to the gods, which occurred Aztec era.
On the way to the cenote have now been set up numerous stalls selling handicrafts of local produce at prices slightly higher than those found in Chiapas. They are so beautiful to see and so colorful that even if you do not buy it, the photographer, the most beautiful is what sells ceramic plates. Let the latest purchases, including an orange serape not even know where to put, but it is too good to leave it there .... I hope not to have to rent a cargo for the return to Italy ....
E 'is almost noon is really hot, we move toward the exit and cross long file entry. They arrived the bus trips from the Riviera, not envy them their own, see Chichen Itza in the noonday sun is absolutely not recommended.
The first impression you had then demonstrated real rather than the site of Uxmal Chichen. Surely the reputation of the Pyramid of Kukulcan has played against against the complete surprise of the site of Uxmal. Surprise for my husband, who in his previous visit had not seen him ... or so he thought! Back home, in fact, we find by his traveling companion much more attentive, who had also visited this site. Where at times my husband has the head, just do not know!
Leaving Chichen we head to the hotel which is only about 3 km E 'always Dolores Alba and we booked directly from Merida (595 pesos a room). This hotel is pretty simple and consists of a series of pink bungalows arranged around two swimming pools and is located just opposite the Cenote Ik-Ill.
Place your bags go straight into patrol of the Cenote. After a short stretch of road in the middle of a tropical garden at the entrance and we get, we begin to descend. The Cenote Ik-Ill is very nice and is very popular with tourists because it is possible to bathe. E 'in the open and down around the roots of ficus to touch the water. We are a for a little 'in this cool place, but we do the bathroom for my husband the water is too deep and I ... I do not have the costume! Me tapina!
Rise to the surface and after lunch we relax a bit 'in the pool waiting to return to Chichen for the spectacle of lights in the evening.
Before joining not fail to leave again groped by a purchase: could not miss the hammock, no? ... For a fee of around 10 euros we have our beautiful hammock synthetic, of course, even if the climate of where we live will allow us to use it and no four months a year. In front of the pyramid of Kukulcan has been placed a series of chairs for the show, and unless that point, everything else is shrouded in darkness. While waiting for the STARTED the show, you can hear the distant sounds of the forest and as the moon rises on the horizon, my husband fiddles with camera and tripod. When the machine is placed for good, get a dog a little 'naughty that although there is room for around a herd of elephants, lies down in front! Can we do move, and soon after the show starts, during which part of the story is told Maya, meanwhile on the pyramid of alternating bright and dark colors, even artificially reproducing what happens during the equinoxes when, for a play of lights, feathered serpent seems to descend from one side of the building.
My husband is not remotely interested in history, primarily because it is told in Spanish and secondly because it is committed to taking artistic photos of the pyramid and at night.
After about a half hour the show ends and we returned to the hotel. We are running out of our vuelta, will stage the next day to Playa del Carmen where we stop for a while few days' relaxation.

Cenote Dzinup - Samulà - Valladolid - from Tulum to Playa

In the morning we look to the city that is much more quiet and then we start early enough to visit the famous Chichen Itza (130 km time 1.5 h), before the mass arrival of tourists from the Riviera Maya.
It 'still early and we can enjoy the site safely. The Pyramid of Kukulcan there is striking for its perfection and grandeur even though I realize I prefer the buildings of Uxmal, but it is still early to make judgments. We can photograph at will, and with the clouds that run fast in the sky, each picture is a bit 'different and a bit' like the many that are around. Imitating these children find that if you clap their hands in front, feels like an echo that makes a tightrope that is vibrated, sin is no longer possible to visit the throne room that is inside the pyramid.
The Temple of the Warriors with an adjoining room with a thousand columns attracts my attention in a particular way, I wonder how he could be at the time of the Maya ...
The golf game of Pelota is really impressive at Uxmal and whether I wondered how they could get to the center, here it seems particularly impossible. The circle is placed, in fact, at a height such as to be unlikely be able to hit it without the help of hands and, especially, considering the height, not just by basketball players, the Mayan era. But perhaps it was better that way, as the player to succeed, was awarded the honor of being beheaded in sacrifice to the gods, as is illustrated by scenes carved on the sides of the field.
As front of the pyramid of Kukulcan, also here is sufficient to produce a clapping sound echoes. Starts to get really hot and the field of pelota is the least suitable place where to rest. There is absolutely no shade, so we head to the Sacred Cenote through a shady street in the forest.
In the Sacred Cenote, is said were found numerous remains of human bones as evidence of the large number of sacrifices to the gods, which occurred Aztec era.
On the way to the cenote have now been set up numerous stalls selling handicrafts of local produce at prices slightly higher than those found in Chiapas. They are so beautiful to see and so colorful that even if you do not buy it, the photographer, the most beautiful is what sells ceramic plates. Let the latest purchases, including an orange serape not even know where to put, but it is too good to leave it there .... I hope not to have to rent a cargo for the return to Italy ....
E 'is almost noon is really hot, we move toward the exit and cross long file entry. They arrived the bus trips from the Riviera, not envy them their own, see Chichen Itza in the noonday sun is absolutely not recommended.
The first impression you had then demonstrated real rather than the site of Uxmal Chichen. Surely the reputation of the Pyramid of Kukulcan has played against against the complete surprise of the site of Uxmal. Surprise for my husband, who in his previous visit had not seen him ... or so he thought! Back home, in fact, we find by his traveling companion much more attentive, who had also visited this site. Where at times my husband has the head, just do not know!
Leaving Chichen we head to the hotel which is only about 3 km E 'always Dolores Alba and we booked directly from Merida (595 pesos a room). This hotel is pretty simple and consists of a series of pink bungalows arranged around two swimming pools and is located just opposite the Cenote Ik-Ill.
Place your bags go straight into patrol of the Cenote. After a short stretch of road in the middle of a tropical garden at the entrance and we get, we begin to descend. The Cenote Ik-Ill is very nice and is very popular with tourists because it is possible to bathe. E 'in the open and down around the roots of ficus to touch the water. We are a for a little 'in this cool place, but we do the bathroom for my husband the water is too deep and I ... I do not have the costume! Me tapina!
Rise to the surface and after lunch we relax a bit 'in the pool waiting to return to Chichen for the spectacle of lights in the evening.
Before joining not fail to leave again groped by a purchase: could not miss the hammock, no? ... For a fee of around 10 euros we have our beautiful hammock synthetic, of course, even if the climate of where we live will allow us to use it and no four months a year. In front of the pyramid of Kukulcan has been placed a series of chairs for the show, and unless that point, everything else is shrouded in darkness. While waiting for the STARTED the show, you can hear the distant sounds of the forest and as the moon rises on the horizon, my husband fiddles with camera and tripod. When the machine is placed for good, get a dog a little 'naughty that although there is room for around a herd of elephants, lies down in front! Can we do move, and soon after the show starts, during which part of the story is told Maya, meanwhile on the pyramid of alternating bright and dark colors, even artificially reproducing what happens during the equinoxes when, for a play of lights, feathered serpent seems to descend from one side of the building.
My husband is not remotely interested in history, primarily because it is told in Spanish and secondly because it is committed to taking artistic photos of the pyramid and at night.
After about a half hour the show ends and we returned to the hotel. We are running out of our vuelta, will stage the next day to Playa del Carmen where we stop for a while few days' relaxation.

Playa e Isla de las Mujeres

The next day we appreciate our first swim in a sea by the beautiful emerald ... ... E 'rather rough, but the color is priceless ... and as we stroll along the beach we decided that tomorrow, a trip to the Isla de Las Mujeres is not so bad.
Said than done, notes in hand, after breakfast we head to the "terminal" of collectivos to Cancun. We need to get to Puerto Juarez for the nine .. time we have, but collectivos leave only when full, luckily we do not have to wait long and in an hour we arrive at the destination.
We get to the terminal in Cancun and immediately after passing the colectivos that in a few minutes brings us to Puerto Juarez. As soon as we descend almost taken hostage by a jovial Mexican local agency that offers us a day by boat to the Island of Las Mujeres for a very affordable price (about 300 pesos per person with lunch included).
On the boat we are only 9: us and a Mexican family consisting of grandparents, children and granddaughter. We go! ... The trip should last about half an hour .... Should already ... when we are half way between Cancun - which can be seen from a distance covered by a cloud of rain style Fantozzi - isolation, the boat stops ... we have almost run out of petrol and motor fishing residues that have done to stop ... . A fine and now? Oh well .... The section is very busy, certainly in some way will. Our pilot did not lose heart, fiddles with the two engines, and with the utmost calm, after a quarter of an hour and a good dose of luck, one of two engines restarted. So we reach Isla de Las Mujeres, where we make our first stop in town ... .. while our "captain" is gasoline!
While in Cancun rains, the time it takes us is rather beautiful: clear blue sky and sun splitting the stones.
Isla de las Mujeres is the classic Caribbean island: white sand and thin, crystal clear water, palm trees and tranquil relaxation.
After a brief walk in "town" We're back to the Zona Hotelera, where we stop for a refreshing bath. Today is really hot! We throw direclty from the boat into a charming sea, and enjoy these moments of pure relaxation!
From there we head towards Playa Tiburon in a restaurant where we will be prepared with good lunch of rice, pasta and grilled fish very good.
In Playa Tiburon you can get your photograph taken with a shark in captivity in an enclosure so narrow that I pity. It 'so tired of being photographed and pieces that just may be hiding on the bottom.
A few minutes walk, but you can visit a center where they are collected and treated the injured turtles and eggs for hatching and help protect the newborn to survive in greater numbers once the open sea.
The day runs nice and quiet and not just the nice little family Mexican finishes lunch .... operation that despite the scale requires only a couple of hours ... we leave for the Natural Park of Garrafon. Here the water becomes deep blue color and then move on to green patches. There is time for another bath in the middle of the colorful fish ... but now the day draws to a close. The colors are more warm and golden as we share - with a full tank - at a time in Puerto Juarez.
Recall the Collective to the terminal in Cancun and then onto Playa. On the latter two musicians climb directly to one of great hotels in Playa for an evening concert, and have with them a charango and Andean flute. We catch up on Andean music, and I improvise? A l t u r a s? of I nt I llimani, unatralemiecanzonipre wounds (RCA costototalegiornataci ¬ 5 0, 0 0 Hindu).
A nchequestagiornatavol gealtermine, leprossimesarannodedi catealrelaxedallaspia ggiaconl? unicavariantediunamez zagior born in the Garden of Eden Cenote, excursion offered by TO at the time of booking. It 'a cenote pool water is decidedly lukewarm, though we enjoy the bath and the view of the depths of these pools of water, semi-sweet.
The day of departure ... ... to pack it reveals a company out of balance. We are told in fact that the airports are much tax as regards the weight of luggage and we, with all the purchases we made, we will certainly be allowed out. Buy a beach bag with the sole purpose of filling of souvenir fragile and heavy (not weigh much) and try to deliver the best shopping in two suitcases and trolley. Indeed, we are very good, suitcases overrun of one kg each (which we pay anyway) and this allows us to not be too conspicuous with the trolley, which are actually quite heavy ...
With the knowledge that you have only tasted just a little 'in this land of color, music, ancient history and spirituality we board for the return to Italy with a little' of nostaglia for everything seen and especially for those still to see ... ...

... ... At home in Italy: the bags are opened and the living room becomes a small indigenous market: neatly spread on our couch we are all our purchases and, in the camera, a few hundred pictures in memory of one exciting trip to a country that fills the eyes of color and beauty and heart of emotions ... que VIVA MEXICO!