THE UNREAL ATMOSPHERE OF BAJA CALIFORNIA

Our journey began long-awaited ...
It 'more than year that Diego and I accordingly by osmosis, want to come to BAJA CALIFORNIA.
I wrote this diary live, not like before where I wrote notes and impressions in a notebook and then the months passed, I found the time to sort everything and pass it to the computer network in place ... now we bought a mini-mobile PC and so quiet in the time or dead can write directly on our tour and put it online just now returned.
We do, however, a smattering of what has preceded our trip.
In September just returned from vacation we found a flight with a great price with destination Los Angeles. A good starting point and then down in Baja California.
The only problem we encountered was the air carrier: ALITALIA, things you early September were tragic and we book: pay for two round trip € 1069 including taxes, but the situation falls two weeks later, about failure and cordata Cai ...
In short you have saved the company cancel the Rome-Los Angeles, but we are proposing riprotetto all other operational: Milano Malpensa - New York and then a nice New York-Los Angeles ... We do not have much choice but our flight hours stretch and we're on the road for longer.
In order not to get exhausted chose not to wake up at four in the morning but to make the approach in Milan the night before ...
Choose, after reading them from the diary of Trip Fabio, the MALPENSA HOUSE.
I am very serious and efficient: they also offer shuttle service to and from the airport, all included in the cost of the room: we paid 61 € for two, no breakfast, but it is really convenient to leave your car in, be brought to terminal agreed and then be accompanied to the chamber in the morning and again at the airport all without stress and without additional costs.
Near the hotel there is a pizza restaurant, but two kilometers there is the Cueva offering shuttle service and we were there for dinner, following the suggestion of the owner of the hotel.
Dinner with excellent service and prices average high fish but very fresh and very good.

 

WEDNESDAY 'MILANO 24/12/2008-NEW YORK-LOS ANGELES

We arrive at our departure: 1st flight at 11.30 with arrival after 8.30 hours of flight.
Quiet flight and on time. We were warned that once in New York we pick up our backpacks and clear customs and then board again for the next flight, but without having to again make the check-in ... Hurry quickly entry procedures in the United States with their fingerprints and photos soon ... find the backpacks and rimbarchiamo ... after an hour of us on board to direct DELTA Los angeles, flight time approximately six hours and thirty ..
Sleep or at least I'm pretty well there, instead Diego enjoys with the screen with some personal films in Italian and it shoots 2.
To me the time zone was in full ... even if we say they are the top five in the evening my body knows that it is night, and does not want to learn to change habits.
Hope to deception as quickly as possible and not to repeat the negative experience with the zone to the west that I had in 2005 when we were in Mexico for two weeks have fallen from six to sleep tonight and had to wake up and arzilla three or four at night ... I assure you that a danger of exhaustion ... and you enjoy half of what you see then why your stamina ends soon .. By the end of my diary as we all went.
We are in a terminal at Los Angeles where we have a wait of eight hours for a flight booked after that will take us to Los Cabos.
Officially, we spend the whole night, the flight is at 6:30 and there agreed to go into a hotel for about five hours ... we say to our body to sleep but he knows that Italy is in the morning and while the hand of our clock the 2:51 AM mark your body says it is 11:51 a.m. and lunch soon ... I am sitting in a waiting room to pass the time, our expectation is deceived dall'arresto of a slightly suspect ... ran up and down making strange allusions to Diego (such as follow me ..) and do not understand his goal ... a girl called worried surveillance and within five minutes they arrived in ten or more, armed with his attempt to escape, were handcuffed and led into ... and I searched even if we have not seen anything but only heard his moans ... then I left him handcuffed at the time ... but not so the continuation of the story ... because I do not speak a word of English and Diego have discovered that his English is that of English and Asian American do not understand half ... thank goodness that does not stop there but we're going to speak Spanish.
Like any trip I read a lot of travel tales of all those who have gone before us and I am in my personal file ... what to see, where to eat, where to stay, what excursions to do and not do ... so a distorted version of the mythical planet lonely ...
If you want I can send it ... well chiedetemelo: didodandan@fastwebnet.it
Reading and gathering info, we realized that our idea to go from Los Angeles to Los Cabos and then rose again by bus and sometimes by hiring a 'car ... was not very feasible because of the short time available.
So we decided to book a direct flight that will take us down to Los Cabos and then use the ten, eleven days we have only to lift up to Los Angeles ...
We found eDreams at an acceptable price by calculating the net advance was virtually nonexistent: book a flight early December for the December 25 one can not expect a price bassissimo.Voliamo with US-AIRWAYS and pay € 381 in two .. . we have not paid a folly, and, most important thing we have recovered very long time.
Diego was boarded by a fifty year old who only has a tremendous desire to speak and tell all I saw in an earlier trip to Europe ... at least is training a bit with English, I simply smile.

THURSDAY '25/12/2008 LOS ANGELES-cabo san lucas

At half past four we start queuing for the check-in, the flight was delayed about an hour ... so it is not that much and expect to wait ten or eleven hours is not much difference ...
This company makes us pay $ 15 a head for backpacks ... now we dance and dance ...
Our flight is not direct but makes a stop in Arizona to Phoenix after about an hour and half flight,
landed, landings and lifts, all in about thirty minutes at least are fast and our flight, it was transformed into international ... fill out the card entry and 12.30 landed in Mexico.
Are exactly 36 hours that we are around and we start to be a little 'tired and feel the need to put the word arrived on this part of the journey ... now we see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Just go down the ladder looked hot there enters the bones and welcomes us we are warm, finally!
Let the queue for passport control and spend about thirty minutes because it touches our turn, all ok, have to expect our backpacks and another smile fills my heart ...
For each flight, I always fobia not find backpacks ... this time we also went well ...
We deliver the sheet to clear backpacks Diego and press the button on the traffic light remains green, beautiful that we avoid the control of backpacks.
We are free and now we have arrived!
Leave us in a row are all the buses (which they call collectivos) and we are asking $ 15 a head to lead us in front of our hotel has been ... Ok, just starting as soon as possible ... There are about 45 'to cabo san lucas.

From Italy we booked the first night in 'HOTEL MAR DE CORTEZ
www.mardecortez.com
4info@mardecortez.com
831-663-5803
fax 831-663-1904

A night without breakfast costs $ 61 (€ 44)
And 'situated in a prime position, center, we felt it was close to everything but at the same time far from the mega hotels or from the chaos ... the entire U.S. as well as the beach can be reached with ten minutes of walking ... I am equipped to answer any question or request, for an excursion or for a rental car ...
Our room was spacious, clean the right, with air conditioning, swimming pool a few steps into the veranda and there are table and chairs to pass the time ... There is a massage center, a small shop and restaurant.
We just arrived we had lunch and then breakfast the next day ... quick service, food abundant and average price ...
We feel quietly advise: we paid $ 61 excluding breakfast.
Around four in the afternoon but the physicist tells us that it is already midnight
and it would be better to go to bed ... we want to resist and force us to leave, take a walk and take all the necessary info for the following days ..
We go in the area of marine and fortunately we do not find all that chaos that we expected, many shops are closed and there is no rush ... the fact that today is Christmas plays in our favor ...
It 'full of local shops and restaurants, the pier is almost difficult to see the sea are so many boats yacth or "parked" ...
It 'a great American, but to this we were prepared and then tomorrow we go on ...
Take information to see the arc, another agency gives us the opportunity to get out to see whales, we guarantee the success ... two hours and costs $ 70 a head ...
We aim to see the whales further north and in the ocean ... some argue that there is in February, in March that the sea is filled with almost ... whales are coming in December ... are all in March and arrived in more ... have already given birth and increased in number.
We choose the short hike to see the arch.
Baracchini in a marina just outside the tourist office there, we know that Gustavo explains the most interesting of Baja Sur and call for us to various agencies who rent a car.
They want a day for one week and then we can leave at guerrero negro ...
The Thrifty (http://www.thrifty.com/) is the agency that has the availability of cars and does not request a folly if not return the car in the same place where you retreat, has a fulcrum in a hotel which is called Cabo Me .. come in now that are closing, talk and set an 'appointment for tomorrow morning.
After a night walk on the beach, we start to be really tired, do not want to know and to eat Mexican nineteen hours, but three in the morning Italian time, give in to the first night's sleep since we left and we both within letto.Crolliamo two minutes of literals.

FRIDAY 26/12/2008 cabo san lucas - CABO Pulm

After about ten hours of sleep, aware of the reality around us ...
We do breakfast in the hotel's restaurant and then go to the pier and take the 'trip of 45' to see the ARC and the beach of love and divorce ...
Costs $ 12 a head, very nice and it is sufficient to render the idea, if a longer time can also be left on the beach and make love to come after a few hours ...
The sea is very beautiful with the sun that makes the colors.
Usually the tours begin at nine o'clock in the morning and repeated every hour until five in the afternoon.

At about half past ten we leave the room directed at the location of the agency that leases the car, last night we went to inquire and we have confirmed the car for today.
We arrive and after the usual misunderstandings we confirm everything.
Those of us ask Thrifty, with insurance all included, $ 77 a day and paying $ 60 extra to take your car in Los Cabos and leave after 4 days in la paz, as a warrior does not have an office.
Ok! We are eager to leave everything and start touring the U.S. to see the real Mexico ...
We are a direct CABO Pulm and, with the help of the tourist agency of Cabo Me (a desk with a computer and telephone) to confirm two dives tomorrow morning with the diving site, we do not even have a phobia of having to arrive early for request info and take the risk to get them and have no place ... they are too few days and we can not afford to spend days on the beach doing nothing to ...
There is a beautiful warm sun and a very pleasant, estimating that by then we have an almost polar cold, our senses are filled with joy
We enter them in the road that exists, the A1 and after more than thirty minutes past the airport, we are out of the world ... just rocks and cactus ... follow the road ...
E 'ora di pranzo e deviamo following signs for the villages that are reported with the aim of finding a place to dine ... the first country is ok ... Miraflores, away from mass tourism and not expect much. . but we are not able to even find where to eat ...
Return and passing on the road next to the country, Santiago, we do some photos of the church in the country, typical and colorful ... and then ask where to eat ... tell us the Palomar ...
There are tables scattered in the garden and everything is very orderly and quiet .. we hope to eat well ...
Ate very well with an excellent service ... the average price, and if passed by those parties we feel you '.
We continue towards our final destination, because it is now almost three in the afternoon and we do not have the slightest idea of where to sleep tonight ...
We arrive at Las Cuevas and take the right fork for the marine park of Cabo Pulm ...
shortly after the paved road ends and begins the dirt road: having read a lot of stories we were prepared for the worse and the road takes us unprepared.
Certainly most of the 40 can not be done, there are too many holes but we are in the midst of nothing, unfortunately, the sky is cloud and not allow us to appreciate how should the color of the sea when they are ahead of us ... We hope tomorrow is better, since we do diving ...
We arrive after about an hour of dirt road to Cabo Pulm is really small and do not know how to be listed as a country and have a place in the maps.
Many in the forum I read asked if you need a 4X4 to cabo Pulm:
hours from personal experience I can confirm what others have written: NO! a normal car, it succeeds well enough to go with the proper caution and not leave the dirt road to reach the beaches, on sand instead need a 4x4, but we arrive at the most quiet and you take a walk to reach the other beaches before and after cabo Pulm ..
Now we must find sleep from my information, there are only three places, one beloved, the other medium and that Nancy is very spartan ...
Let Baja bungalows with that of the average price has only one room available and does not know whether for two nights ... we ask to see is really small: just a double bed and a half meters to turn around ... the bathroom is outside, in town ... price: $ 45 ok ... we think ...
We shall as a second choice to the dear Pulm CABO RESORT where there is also the diving center ... (http://cabopulmo.com/ info@cabopulmo.com)
They also have one room available, with bathroom and asks us $ 55 ... look at the room is spacious with double bed and half bath read more great ... clean and ordinatissima, has a garden with table and two chairs .. short for ten dollars more gives us a bellissima.Accettiamo room because we booked diving with them ...
One thing surprised us .. in so many travel is the first time that we happen: the woman at the reception we did not warn that the keys to the doors ... that's all open and nothing ever happened .... we remain somewhat astounding, but we do not have much choice but to leave things in view not possible to trust and love of neighbor.
Let the sea last one ... now the sun is setting behind us and the colors of the sea does not stand out so much ... but it has a long and lonely beach ...
I think this is a true paradise for those who have enough days to enjoy the peace that exists in this place away from everything.
Dinner in the restaurant of the resort ... nothing special, we were at the closed due to wind, but we left that we smell the food because the kitchen is in the same room ...
Tired from the sleep immediately collapsed.

SATURDAY 27/12/2008 A CABO DIVING Pulm

We wake up very quiet although we hear the wind outside and whistles that this does not presage anything good for diving we have to do ... with all the sun is beautiful both above and below! Patience we can not change the weather.
At nine we go to the diving to prepare for diving, are the eight and we want to eat ... the restaurant at the resort was closed and asked the attendant tells us that opens onto the top ten ...
Where can we go? In this group of houses we have seen many alternatives:
there is the restaurant of the area: EL CABALLEROS. There is also an amazing restaurant ...
They just opened quietly and we do an excellent breakfast.
To the nine we have the diving is full of people and are all in turmoil, we, mostly I have a while to bewilderment: kg kg but not libre .. and it is not known how mene bring him ... L ' air in the cylinder is not in bars but in another unit that I remember and as a logical indicator of the depth meter does not indicate the feet ... but thank goodness we have computers ..
After a good hour of preparation for all the different groups, the time comes to leave ...
The wind is quite strong and as a result the sea is rough enough ...
The current is strong so you need to dive quickly and all together ...
1,2,3 ... ok, all down to earth .... I go I follow the guide ... after a few minutes that we are in makes us the signal to go up I do not know for what cause, but I understand that is why We are not in the right place ... UFFA!
Heading in the boat while it is not easy all the various operations ... keep in mind that I also suffer from sea sickness ... I hard ...
The captain will make the right point and again a 1,2,3 ... can not go with the group and we must wait at sea .. and again sea sickness you feel ...
M'immergo with a feeling of nausea and a slight dizzy ... Below there is little visibility and a lot of suspension ... there are many fish and I had never seen so many all together fish ball to see ... When the fish first guitar ... and groups of fish of different varieties and colors ...
But immersion is normal, nothing special ... Suddenly the tipa tells us to go back ... all about ...
Just go up on the boat goes out all my gift and upset my breakfast to fish ...
Yawns even as the nausea is contagious and even the sub in front of me a copy ... between the sea and moved us who are disgusted by the decision to waive the second draft. Done well? Hurt?
I do not know, just so that when I saw not the time to get back on land.
The price of the diving is so divided:
DIVING: 1 dive $ 55
EQUIPMENT $ 20
2nd DIVING $ 20

TOT 2 DIVING $ 95

Hot shower and rest a little nap to take the forces ...
Then we start looking for a place to eat ... there's lots of choice but we are curious to see Nancy and try to find by following the arrows in the structure ...
E 'as described by those who came before us .... very simple and spartan ... but the prices are lower in other places as regards the food ... we eat the tacos and then take the car to visit beaches cabo Pulm since Pochettino is emerging of a sun ...
Do the various photos that we find cactus and condor or several prey like hawks ...
The landscape is really Mexican ... but the whole baja to Los Cabos is part Mexican and very little tourist luck.
And return very quickly collapsed from sleep.

SUNDAY 28/12/2008 CABO Pulm --

I wake up at dawn, I do not know if it is the fault of the cast or the fact that I went to bed at five in the afternoon because of the headaches ... the four are sveglissima.
I open the door and I find myself in front of a starry sky incredible, from box perugina kisses ... in this place there is no light pollution, so the sky is truly starry.
I also put a photograph and I can assure you that some seem to come really good, fantastic! Then start writing the draft for the mail to send to my friends just find a place to connect, and I write a few lines of the diary ... Then I call good for another hour ... Be the backpacks, we are ready for departure to la paz at half past seven, we have not dined both pretty hungry, but everything is closed, we decide to get on the road, sure find something along the way ...
We stop to photograph the landscape, the cactus and the various birds we see around ...
Today time seems better, there's a beautiful sunny but wind freddino ruin what would be an ideal climate ... At about nine arrive in a country called RIBERA ... we stop in a typical Mexican restaurant and ask for breakfast , no problem!
We sit down ... not even have juice and egg to be done but only beaten a cake with tomatoes and onions robe and other inedible because of ...
The type gentilissimo explains that the specialty is the "meat" and is anxious to see a piece to us if it was not clear ... but we understood benisimo ...
The appearance is very inviting, we accept the challenge ... go with the meat: it is then boiled pig meat in large pot and then made a jump cut on a grill to roast a Pochettino. Excellent! Ne slope half kilo in due.Ci bring all the various hot sauces, chili and guacamole ... but I refuse ...
The type gentilissimo again brings us the taste of his specialty: the pieces of skin, stomach and liver ... A delight for them, Diego tries to eat, I will not let me restore them before and I just laughed ...
I can only say that we have not touched more solid food until nine o'clock at night ... what time zone more, soon my stomach does not know when it's time for breakfast or lunch!
However it would be a great place to eat if it was the right time ...
Happy to have won this little mental challenge start ...
LOS BARRILES come to stop for coffee in a bar run by an American family, just at the entrance to the country in a kind of commercial plaza ... good espresso, good biscuits then we have done that a mocaccino is nothing but milk and coffee ...
Everything helps to digest the meat that we ate.
We continue on the road through the mountains and arid forests, a landscape that lacks the big surprises ... and to enter an afternoon in la paz.
We use a while to move and see where the two hotels we have chosen among the many recommended and tested before us.
la paz is full of life, lots of people, I think it is normal since it is Sunday ...
This is the first hotel: Jenko HOTEL, located in the center on a street parallel to the Malecon ... but before we move on the various boards with written marjuana free us to spend even just want to ask ... go directly to the second .. la posada jesuschile
Is found easily by studying the map for a moment and inspires us now is slightly off-center but with a walk of ten or fifteen minutes it was already on the Malecon, where they are all the restaurants or shops in the center.
They have two free rooms and ask to see one that is cheaper ...
It is truly beautiful and great, all the posada is beautiful and well kept: it is arranged on two floors, with the reception and the car kept on the ground floor.

Posada jesuschile / Mar Y Aventuras
# 564 Topete, E / 5 de Febrero y Navarro
la paz, BCS, Mexico
http://www.posadalunasol.com/


It costs $ 168 for three nights, $ 56 per night without breakfast.
The room would be perfect but I want to be accurate for those who eventually will choose this accommodation also thanks to my warning: the camera is perfect, but the bathroom has only a small window and perhaps the sewers do not throw well, however the room wafts an odor of sewer ... after the first ten minutes you habit and it is very annoying, because the room there are two beautiful windows and we can change the air ... well I have no idea if the same problem is present in all rooms or in ours, or if it was due to a temporary problem ... If we go back in the area, definitely come back ... they are kind, available to any need, and there is always someone at reception 24 hours at 24 ....

Solved the problem of housing, we want to arrange for a dive tomorrow if we have time we like to make a ...
Near the posada is a diving center, seem prepared and equipped, we ask for info then the foundations to make a final choice ...
I read of people who advised that the diving is in the CANTAMAR (http://www.clubcantamar.com/ info@clubcantamar.com) and the Club of the Sea, where we have taken the patent has recommended for personal experience to go with them ... They have a small office in downtown la paz on the Malecon, but when we move we are closed ... perhaps for the time or because it's Sunday ... we decide to try just the Cantamar. ..
It is really out, take the road to the beach ... just after the ferry boat, there is a crossroads, just before the beach ... if PICHILINQUE at the fork keep left at the bottom you will find all the stable residential CANTAMAR with attached diving center.
We speak with the boy at the reception, do not know much, we just said "no problem coming here tomorrow at eight and do everything."
Ok, done deal ... since we are on the right track we decide to visit all the beaches of this side of la paz.
The most beautiful as all of you who have preceded me, I had done well to understand is certainly PLAYA BALANDRA.
There is a lot of people and thanks to the low tide can also get the fungus under a rock formation, and make some nice photo ... pity not to have the costume .. even if sincerely pulls even a slight breeze that makes you appreciate to have a dress on him.
And we return for dinner, from the stories I had read was strong in the positive sense KIWI ...
We find slightly freddino, we need the nachos and a really good cream for even more good fish ... The positive comments were motivated ... we are full of hope ... but the kitchen will fall dramatically over the meat: I had taken a steak kind Diego New York and a T-Bone, arriving almost a two-ciabatta fingers and soles of shoes in a hard and inedible indescribable. Perhaps choosing fish would have been more fortunate? I do not ever know because in the following days not give a second chance. Pay and go to sleep, tomorrow will be a day of understanding.

MONDAY '29-12-2008

We leave with a thought: where to have breakfast before diving?
Sono le sette e trenta ed è tutto chiuso,troviamo solo un caffè sul malecon che offre anche torte pannose e cremose che evitiamo… speriamo di avere tempo sufficiente per mangiare qualcosa nell'hotel del diving.
We arrive on time and talk with Jonathan, it is he who organizes and manages the diving:
Yesterday the boy does not know half and then we learn what are the programs of the day:
2 dives, a place to be decided under the sea and the two fall into the bay to go in search of whale sharks, you pay the extra $ 25 for ultra light rises in flight to locate them: in their theory after move a safe shot. Accepted all the crawling and credit card. Fortunately, all the times that we used do not have to pay a commission.
We try and prepare the equipment and soon after they are all ready to go, there is no time to go to the restaurant for breakfast, telling Jonathan reassures us that we will give him the biscuits on the boat. We do not have many pretensions, just put something in the stomach.
The boat is really great, it's practically on three levels: the lower deck, where we put our stuff and clothes and everything is safe and protected, the plan where all the equipment and that after each dive becomes a lake and where a higher level then sit and enjoy the sun and the journey.
We employ good navigation hour before arriving at the place where the first draft, but there is much wind I find shelter behind the cabin of the captain and I do travel quite quiet.
A few stretch where the current is strong and consequently the sea is rough, for the rest of the sea voyage is a table. Isla Holy Espitu lined the sun highlights the color of the sea and the white beaches, certainly in the summer stay lying down in a few hours these beaches should not be so bad, but ...
LOS Islotes C'immergiamo to where he lives a colony of sea lions 350-400.
We are a little over ten and diving, but many people immerse themselves in the end and the two dive masters share the remaining sub and we are just another guy with Spanish.
That are diving dream big boat, little people, calm sea and dive as in this case to five meters and then drops to the desired depth in a gradual way.
Everything perfect.
C'immergiamo just a sea lion s'immerge with us, animals are quite large but I do not fear, they swim with us but do not particularly care for our intrusion.
We reach up to seventeen meters deep.
The visibility is not the most, ten meters slow and the suspension is great.
Maybe close to us also a few big fish or a turtle, but we can not see them ... shame ... but we swam with lots of fish, in some cases we were just in their "cloud".
Going back we stop at five meters and swim around us yet the sea lions, unfortunately not many pieces but enough to be surprised to see the grace with which they swim in the water.
We could, instead of just go back by boat, snorkeling with the lions while expecting all sub who were with us ... but after we thought and will remain in the classic moments of if we had said or done. But the next time I will be more awake.
Return shipping direct to the second dive site: La Partida
descend with the top Dell'Ancora directly to the maximum depth of 18 meters and also in this case do not meet very special but it is an immersion and quiet with many fish and colorful starfish.
By boat we serve lunch tacos with meat and fresh fruit ... we are in the midst of the sea and be content there.
Return to the pier to catch those who paid only the snorkeling with the whale sharks.
Yes again, we confirm that the ultra lightweight diving spotted them, even talk of a dozen, but to us it seems more a mockery that the reality ... We are also satisfied one.
After about forty minutes to slow the speed and begins to scan the sea in search of a signal, which is logical because they are men of diving sights that the first shark:
divide us into two groups of six people and just after the recommendations not to touch the sharks are just one way to immerse.
I really do not have a great desire to dive into water slightly freddina and say, "but I see it well from above the boat ..." and then my brain quickly goes all the info available to the type is a special experience , is not every day, there are people who would be at my place, I know divers who organized trips just to view and have not seen ... you paid to see it ... and then just after the others have thrown me, unfortunately I just lost the piece of snorkel that goes in your mouth and then I pulled the plastic tube directly, although I felt a little disadvantage.
I assure you view it from above and be with this animal within five to six meters (a puppy) to half a meter away is a whole 'other effect.
We all know that is un'animale delicious and not at all dangerous, but given the poor visibility on one occasion I have found the front with his mouth open slightly and I was scared so great but at the same time wonderful.
We had already met with the newly patented whale sharks in Mozambique, but then I had seen from above the raft and saw under water ... this time we have seen very well, even thought that the tail will move somewhere ...
While we were busy with a second shark group has dived for another monitor ... just lose contact with the shark will spit back on the boat for another addocchiarne or to approach and then dive again.
I am a little 'out of fear and maimed for the snorkel lifts are not for bathing, idem Diego him but because the lack of water and the cramp that has been caught ... at least 5 meetings with the animals we have made!
Diving in the end do not require a special physical form, although it is certainly a safeguard in case of unfavorable conditions or currents, on the contrary snorkelling with the whale sharks .... YES you have to swim with him at his pace in the middle slow down to the sea for a while if he is already gone ...
We then limited but it was wonderful to see them from above and actually had about a dozen ... felt constantly exclamations that a sight in all parts of the ship.
Bellissimo!
Some have passed beside the boat and we regretted not having a lot of us had with the camera to capture it all, but we did not know that we tried the shark and even more of the conditions of the boat, often when you dive, there are protected areas and everything is wet and then leave everything at home so as not to run unnecessary risks, in this case would be quite possible.
Congratulations to the diving Cantamar for their organization, preparation and attention to everything, especially the diving safer and peaceful as possible.
We pay the two-day $ 309.59 (€ 220)
A head:
DIVING SNORKELING 2 + $ 105
EQUIPMENT RENTAL $ 23
PLANE FOR WHALE SQUALO $ 25

Return tired but very happy.
Dinner at a restaurant recommended by Jonatan on: Bismark specializes in fish: eat good portions plentiful, including the first oyster Diego ... even the last!

TUESDAY '30-12-2008 la paz

We are accustomed to sleep ten hours or more per night ... at nine collapsed from sleep and at eight we find it hard to wake up some day ... Yesterday we had tired for good.
Today there is a splendid sun and the wind has fallen ... it is the ideal day for a walk on the Malecon, the promenade of la paz and around the narrow streets of the country.
We must deliver the car by noon, so we decide to exploit it for the last hours duplicating the various beaches around the final destination with the most beautiful beach for us and many other travelers before us: PLAYA BALANDRA.
The sun highlights in striking colors of the sea, and offers picture postcard scenery ...
We arrive in Playa Balandra and the first time that we view, Sunday afternoon, has changed its look for the better: it is a paradise!
Sunday was the late afternoon and I imagine suffers low tide because there was a lot of beach, today across the creek is covered with a fabulous color, and we regret having to hand back the car because as the hot sun could also make a dip.
Return after it is immortalized in our minds that our cameras ... Fantastic!
We arrive in perfect time for delivery of the car and after checking that everything is ok and in good condition we are free to stroll through the center of la paz.
The sun helps and makes life more beautiful, even if sincerely hope in something more to see.
The shops are souvenirs are all equal and the first after you no longer desire to see others, anything that you want to come face to bring home something to remember your trip to baja.
We follow the advice of Fabio; traveler who came before us and have lunch at the Laureles:
Eat well and stay happy, we enter almost empty and leave that all tables are full.
As a historian there is much to see, only the church is characteristic and there are some museums, where we did not enter. Dedicate a day is more than enough.
Safely continue our walk until you come to our posada.
We prepare the backpacks, tomorrow morning at seven we have to take the bus that will take us to loreto.

WEDNESDAY '31-12-2008 la paz - loreto

Alarm even before dawn, the seven we have the bus from la paz that will lead us to loreto.
Descend and the posada boy who did the night shift calls us taxi.In suffered less than ten minutes we are at the bus station AGUILA. Tickets for loreto is 410 pesos per head, waiting, waiting and we understand that only by c '... is a delay at least eight quarter tell us that the race was canceled and that we must take one of the nine. We reprint the tickets with the correct time. How beautiful to have woken up before the six and then wait more than two hours on a bench. But even this is part of the journey and its unexpected!
The arrival in loreto scheduled for noon at two passes in the afternoon ... we hope!
We start on time and leave quickly ... la paz in the middle of anything the bus, like all other vehicles, was stopped at a lock, make us all down and a soldier with his dog control and searched all bags After the dog has jumped to well on all baggage, are also the "dog proof" that is hiding a bag blank in the middle of the bag and release the dog, frankly I think a little Imbranato (but I do not I I mean these things) I see several times the military that shows where to look for ... to end the dog locates the package, and sits in front of the bag in question ... as a premium "toy red" that the dog enjoys tighten in the mouth and type it takes and throws it in the middle of the bag .. everything is repeated for four to five times ... Jump on my back pack more than once, just that we do not pee ....
We are all clean and we can start again, thanks!
Ora siamo sull'autobus,è già mezzogiorno e fuori c'è una bella giornata di sole...A loreto abbiamo prenotato via mail una notte alla Baja Outpost di Leon...tutti nei vari racconti ne hanno parlato benissimo,vedremo.. (http://www.bajaoutpost.com/ outpost@bajaoutpost.com)
We arrive on time, we took a little over six hours is. The zones that are crossed are very typical and classic as landscapes, mountains, ravines with carcasses at the bottom of cars and cactus and occasionally anything you emerge in a small town ... the road in some sections, however, offers
glimpses of the beautiful and if we had had the car we would be very happy to take pictures ... Traveling by bus also means this: to lose the freedom of where you want to stop ...
We are making more and more about how we should live the Baja: How then did lots of travelers who have gone before us: first, with much more time available and in full freedom and autonomy, modifying and changing the program you want to base and sensations of the moment.
Dropped out of us immediately approached by a taxi driver: ok 40 pesos to take us to BAJA OUTPOST OF LEON: is located on the Malecon of loreto, with a short walk you are in the center.
They are doing the work of expansion and now we know that Leon is on the roof of a building to direct the work and its workers ... I do not have much time but gently brings us to our deluxe cabanas ... $ 86 per night with breakfast ... I had read about him in the different stories and we have not tried other ... I knew that he did that is diving around the various islands ... but now says there is not a good time to do diving and all outstanding to the various works of enlargement and that by January 15 will start the season to see that blue whales are arriving in the Sea of Cortez ... UFFA, in advance ... we hope we go well at guerrero negro.
Describing the lonely dwellings at Leon says, "though it is a few steps from the Malecon in a few hours will seem like you're in the jungle." It was a phrase that was difficult to understand, now that we know are inside ... The cabanas are all made of straw, of dried palm leaves and wood and have similar form as the huts of Africa although the inside is equipped with a confort.Da each side are also very romantic to me personally if you relax a lot more beautiful room of a hotel that still be in ... It 'a matter of taste.
Another particularly beautiful but very strange here is that even as a cabo Pulm not have the keys to the doors ... He explains that in fifteen years is not nothing ever happened just not to leave their passports on the table but in the backpacks and Sharp posto.Poi says not to quit because he did not spare keys and there is a blacksmith in the country which has the tools to open the doors ...
It 'still incredible to think in a world full of crime you have to completely trust people who do not know and leave the computer and camera and all your personal items so in an open room where everyone can come because there is no reception or control over who enters or leaves ... I am happy for them even if they live in a small corner of paradise, but I would like to know if he in his house does not have the keys and leave everything open ....
After these brief comments we left to eat and we managed to book two dives tomorrow morning with another diving, on: DIVING DOLPHIN ... (www.dolphindivebaja.com / loreto / town.html)
We walked in the afternoon to the small town center and peek in the shops of local craftsmanship, the fact is that one is seen as having seen tutti.Non I still found things that have struck me particularly and I saved a little 'of money. ..
We have requested confirmation of the timetable of buses to Guerrero and again our plans were upset we had decided to sleep two nights in loreto and in the morning starting on Friday .. and the day after making the trip with the whales .. . but the buses leave until four in the morning then have a break until noon ...
What to do in loreto sincerely here unless you taste the sea with scuba or snorkeling, or you have not
your car and go around and see other beaches or the mission that is close, there's just a nice to do nothing ... .. We have to decide we are certain that Guerrero once seen whales there is still less to do than go to loreto ... we can all anticipate and stay one day more in Los Angeles and see something more ... And 'also a stress end l' dive and then leave immediately but has no sense to stay In this village one day in not having anything more to do ... I think if we start with the bus 15:30 and after six hours we should be there.
We are tired enough and collapsed immediately after dinner ... in the distance we hear the people who celebrated in 2009, but after a while we were again in the world of dreams.

THURSDAY 'loreto 01-01-2009 - guerrero negro

The cabanas of Leon will also be nice and romantic but I can assure you that it is freddina the night, with the cover of wool you sleep well, but the head remains out occasionally freezes a Pochettino ... Certainly in August in the straw walls are much more cool and ventilated, but now the temperature is a little lower ... we're still good.
We wake up with no desire to do diving and go all wet and then advise the diving of our exchange program ... no problem there, warned that the other couple who had to dive with us has given package!
At half past eight there are the children of Leon that start to play ... and to call if one wanted to sleep a Pochettino is not the moment ...
Meet Leon and with a good Italian, tells us where to eat breakfast and when he was suspended for not diving ruining the square ... the visibility is low and if they do not make a beautiful diving there torni more ... in theory he works only a stroke in August sicuro.Dice that there is a visibility of 40 meters and you find two thousand, three thousand and thousands of dolphins maintained all along ....
I will be happy to arrange a trip for un'agosto future ...
Breakfast is served there almost beside the shipyard where they work ... everything is chaos, we must walk to get on the boards ... shaky wooden cats climb on tables and you what you lick the plate ... that Grand Hotel!
I guess at least I hope that in August slightly changes the atmosphere, some family is family ... the kids of three and five years playing with you and ask you what you're drinking ... and finally I woke up with a cockroach at least 3 cm at the head of the bed, almost beside my pillow ...
I do not feel discouraged because so many travelers who have gone before us speak well, but at the moment if we were to return to loreto do not believe us up to Leon, although I think we capitati at the time of restoration of the space .. but my $ 86 were all good.
After breakfast, saw the beautiful sun we have a little battle (we regret not having diving, maybe we would have seen some wonderful things, but at the same time we are happy not to have done and to be relaxed) for diving ... we miss a nice walk on the Malecon.
Until we reach the marina where there are the owners of boats that offer us the opportunity to go to take a trip on the nearby islands ... look at the hundreds of pelicans fish: running high in the sky and when they see the fish you put in perfectly vertical and sling water ... are beautiful to see.
We go in the small town where sitting on a wall there is free wireless internet and we can send some mail ...
At eleven we take a taxi, and now we are waiting for the bus to Guerrero in six hours ... we should go.
Tickets cost of 477 pesos each.
We begin the journey ... the driver driving a bit like a madman, and between the mountains and the various curves it makes my life a little difficult for me to suffer the car ... sometimes we find the straight and then gives me the luxury of stabilize.
We find again a place to block the military are telling us to get out and start to check their bags, even if not all, my backpack, for example, do not touch ... but this time with a dog and perform searches touching here and has in the bag ... I do not think many will produce results at least with a dog might have a sense ... but ... so do not check the bags personal or internal station where one could first to go hide anything ...
I am sure that, in theory, know the fact his, which I completely ignore.
Start and towards the two afternoon we stop in the middle of the desert where, however, there is a set of three to four houses with a small restaurant: the pause lasts thirty minutes abundant to allow everyone to have lunch with calm.
Back on the road ... we see the beautiful scenery, between mountains and cactus in the distance comes out every now and then the deep blue sea ...
Around five Sant'Ignacio that we still find a place to block the military ... (beginning to think about when we will travel to Tjuanana at night and quiet while we sleep (we hope) we will be woken up every tot and facts fall out freddo.Ma to this is another day and we do the time.
This time also control the backpack of Diego and all personal bags before we climb back on the bus ... and we clean start.
We have the honor to witness the sunset over the desert in the midst of montagne.Il sky is colored red in an indescribable and shadows of various cacti stand out even more. We hope that the photos through the glass has come!
At half past seven we arrived at their destination: guerrero negro.
We do not see much of the country, now seek a taxi to the Hotel MALARRIMO where we had booked for tomorrow night, but anticipated having all of one day, hopefully we have a full camera.Sono, but the book tuors to see whales, tomorrow at eleven.
Tells us to try al'HOTEL THE MORRO. We trust and go without consulting my guide or lonely ... More than a hotel looks like a motel in classic American style ... She has the book and we accept, we did not really want to spin, and second I do not think that in this village , famous for the whales, there is still plenty of choice and this is just one night.
Then checking the lonely say that offers simple but comfortable rooms ... specifying that I do not have the certainty that they are all equal: our (number 10) is certainly simple but also quite spartan or "slight" decline. The floor is all half-cut and the bathroom because of all the water that has taken, is a little sad but at least the sheets appear clean and maybe I will not have the cockroach I had the luxury cabanas of Leon ... The price of room 320 pesos a dinner about € 18, then everything is accepted.
We go out for dinner, following the instructions contained in a package that gave us the kind of first-motel We are entitled to 10% discount on food but not drink sule.
The restaurant is not very far and it seems a "very luxurious" by establishing the place where we are ... you pay the water in the glass, you open the door and other small things that make you understand who studied some class. Eat well and spend a night in normale.quanto room sgarrupata.Rientriamo and after reading a 'collapsed sonno.Siamo without the physical, but a lot do not always sleep better ... .. because the night in these places would be too long ...

FRIDAY 02-01-2009 guerrero negro - TIJUANA

Today is the big day, we hope our expectations are not disappointed: we have to see the whales.
Alarm squallido very quiet in the motel, shower with a rigolo water and starting to direct
the agency ECO-TOURS MALARRIMO
info@malarrimo.com
www.malarrimo.com pay in two PESOS 1070 (€ 60)

The departure is scheduled for eleven, just the time of a quiet breakfast, also taking advantage of free Internet we can send some mail ...
We are about twenty people who will then split in two lance ...
During the trip, which lasts about thirty minutes, a boy and as a guide explains the history of the country to find not so small as to be believed, (has a total forty-three thousand inhabitants) explains the saline and the lives of whales.
Arrived, starting with the two boats and trying to discover where are the whales ... suddenly a surprise us with his typical puff ... it is very big ... appears and disappears ...
Go ahead and start a kind of ritual: the dolphins are jumping very close to our boat and immediately after the whales reappear here ... to see it end, even if you never know if what we see in another place is the same or another ... One thing is certain that we see three or four at once ... They are huge!
It is also one that has particularly want to spoil a ballot comes out next to us or to another boat with the muzzle to be caressed. It is something incredible and exciting.
This beautiful and enormous animal passing under our boat and check with the muzzle with a delicacy that has no explanation, it could easily capsize wishing instead
just want to caress ...
It is impressive, at some point we are with the boat type face to face and while I am on the outer side I see the long tail of the whale, those of the boat are rubbing the muzzle or the left.
Every now and we also were washed, to the delight of cameras, from the spray of a whale which was so close. Fantasy.
Even the many dolphins that we saw, will remain in my heart, I had happened to see in other places but never for so long and so close to the boat ... they are beautiful and amazing elegance. It was a beautiful sunny day which made everything even more beautiful ... now when we thought he had finished the whale greeted us with two shots of incredible photos from the queue, that all sin was it a surprise that we failed to photograph or film anything, and then take a mockery of us once again came out with the jumping out of the muzzle.
With this we have taken in your eyes the way back, we stopped to see the nest that fish had made an eagle on a pole in the middle of the sea, a boat photographed carrying salt and in a photograph last twenty sea lions who were all piled on a huge boa, similar to a bin in the middle of the sea were fantastic ... even if the dry smell of shrimp which is a shocking thing ... at least when you approach them by diving do not hear the stink .
The tour is organized so prefect and the established return.
Always have lunch at the restaurant of Malarrimo with tacos and we go to ... at a price of 150 pesos allow us to keep the room until the start of the bus, around six to seven this evening.
The journey is drawing to a close, I am sorry to have lost a day in loreto, was lost because we did not diving, but this could not predict taper.
But it was a day that we could use to stop in another baja type to Magdalena to see the whales again ... just for the fact that even if we go back (I am sure that sooner or later we come back: we have forgotten too many things ...) in baja will never be in this period, during the whales ... and then maybe we needed to concentrate a Pochettino more .. even if it is in la paz, loreto that the season was not yet open: we have arrived in advance. Today, to our joy we have seen, and well, then we must also know how to please, right?
Towards half past four and five for the sake of having to decide new confirmation of the bus we meet that there are so many people and has created a waiting list, we are the number 26 and 27. AUGURI !!!!!!
Creandoci own false hopes to half past six we present in the waiting room where very quickly reaches a lot of people ... talk, talk in a little shaken ...
We understand little, a boy speaking more slowly tells us that the 19:30 bus is already full so do not go up any .. let everyone on the list for those of 10:30 and of one, are still looking at whether to create a 'extra buses ....
Start a small depression of mind, mixed with resignation: sooner or later everything has an end, only you do not know the time, and we console with some meat tacos that we take outside the bus station, just to kill time.
Arrives and passes that of half past seven ... then at about ten we are warned that it is full the other but certainly start with that of midnight, I believe, because that extra time does not coincide with any of those, so better, a round of applause to those who manage it all.
Around eleven we do the check-in luggage to, deliver to the other side of the bench and we attacked a number of ... number at the time of withdrawal no one asks.
At least we try to do things sorted ... Meanwhile, we pay the fare un po 'in dollars and a little' in pesos, 480 pesos each.
With one hour delay of the bus reaches the ten-and thirty ... our party and instead arrive in perfect time: 00:15 ... the Stanchi us as we are asleep now.

SATURDAY 03-01-2009 TIJUANA - LOS ANGELES

After just over an hour we are woken up from the block, this time we do not have to go down, just check the bag but as the pockets of our backpacks are closed with the lock we are forced to go down, open them and remove backpacks, attend a check very ridiculous, just pro forma, but they are very nice, right up to help us to throw everything as they found.
Towards daybreak we again stopped by another place to block but we are moving now, perhaps because they know that we have already been checked.
Between sleep and the other dormiveglia and varied, we arrive at a perfect time in Tijuana, is approximately eleven ...
We do not even have time to get off the bus that a woman shows us where to go to catch the bus to Los Angeles ...
Are $ 22 a head ... Is there a bus to the international departures and the one with the inscription ... Greyaund not know the difference but then later we will do our assumptions ...
We are happy not to be due to go into the chaos of hundreds of people that are in the waiting room ... follow the directions of the woman.
The driver takes us to the border then we deliver our luggage and us to follow the crowd that forms the queue that was created quickly, the bus ahead of the other party: this is at least what we think we have understood ...
Piove and suddenly we are also short, there is a row of a hundred people and maybe more .. front and behind us.
However in a short time we are at passport control and baggage and move on quickly.
There is no indication on where to find the bus, follow the crowd.
There is much chaos and no one giving information, after waiting half an hour we understand that we need to reconfirm the ticket in a ufficetto around the corner, again a long line ... we are divided on different buses and depart at the end. We employ approximately three hours to Los Angeles.
Leave us in an unknown area near Downtown and $ 50 an abusive driver takes us to our hotel.
However, well goodbye Mexico arrived in the United States.


REFLECTIONS ON THE BAJA:

We liked, I had no doubts that it would be so because of all the stories that I read, I found only one negative to 100% and another slightly more objective but always negative, and all the others were in love with baja o at least be happy to come a time in life.
Excluding the opportunity to see whales, which is only in winter, and I agree that we Diego that the best time is in summer, although I imagine that you die from heat, say in August because of the beautiful Baja california is the sea and its beaches.
When outside is hot dip in a sea of beautiful colors makes it even more wonderful when it is cold out there the water is only twenty degrees.
Surely even the scenery inside the desert cactus and its prey that inhabit it make it special and also the fact that in many places you can find the real Mexico, not the creation of tailor-tourists, all this makes it all worth the Baja to be seen.
But the beauty of Baja is the sea and its creatures, then one must start with the idea already, or to sub or to be around the various beaches and snorkeling ... if one has enough time can save a little money found a boatman, and not doing things organized by the agencies.
Us with a few days between one thing and another we have spent a bit ... but our motto is:
if I need to save or pull the belt I do not sure on the road, depriving them of any excursion, make it at home in everyday life.
Second thing is that I agree is that Diego is that Baja should be turned in the car, in total autonomy and freedom and serving a total of days available in our case, ten days is been very few, we had to forgo visiting many places that were marked as interesting or beautiful to see.
Patience will definitely be back sooner or later ... and in August will be at least two - three weeks left.
One final note: we did not find the Baja cheap because maybe because of the time, often we could not evaluate more than an alternative ... but we are happy to have seen even if only in part.
We hope to come back one day ....