My travel in Armenia, through the mysterious and distant Hayastan
A nice "walk" in this country of very ancient history
Naples - Munich - Vienna - Yerevan
Fortunately we decided to spend the day before the start of my home, so we can relax a lot. At about 12:15 my brother Salvatore and Dad lead us at the airport, our flight leaves at 14:30 but there is already much line at check-in. After the usual formalities done our part for the Lufthansa flight which arrives Monaco 1h and 20 'later. Now we have to wait until 18:30 where we have a little fokker to Vienna, where our flight will depart at 22:30 austrian direttoa
Yerevan. The flight to
Yerevan lasts 3 hours and something and send the movie Shrek, but unfortunately we are too tired to see him even if the flight is very turbulent and beside me there is a Pole who talk like a madman and I'm not sleeping.
Yerevan
Finally we landed in
Yerevan all'ereoporto are the 4:50, the new terminal inugurato in July is (obviously) very new and clean. At this point you can either get the visa directly at the customs (30 USD), but you have to do a line a bit longish, or you may purchase through the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (only 60 USD credit card, www. armeniaforeignministry.am / eVisa /) certainly both choices are cheaper embassy. Also in line for checks on visas is very long and we leave the airport at about 7 (!!!). Obviously it is too early for public transport (guardacaso all flights from Europe) come very soon) and we must trust a taxi for 5000 AMD (1 euro = 470 AMD, fair price according to the Guide) brings us all out ' Alo Travel Agency ... but it is too soon! fact here in
Armenia unless you are at least 10:00 everything is closed!. Since we have not had breakfast we go to the nearby opera house square full of cafes where we converse a few hours and get a good breakfast with a good two cakes, two cappuccinos and a bottle of water (2600 AMD). After a short stop at the cafe the other Italian tourists with whom a chat. At about 10:30 we go to the agency and finally after filling out some documents, with an excessive phlegm, give us the keys to our apartment and accompany us to the destination. The apartment (45 USD in Zaqian Street) is located just steps from the main square, Republic Square, is very clean with air conditioning (essential considering the heat in here in
Yerevan) and TV with the way although the cavo.Ma 'The brand new apartment building is hideous plans are not illuminated is all "sgarrupato" and the elevator look like ...... World War experts. Due to the tiredness we decide to take some rest and around 15:30 we start the first walk through the sunny streets of
Yerevan. The first stop is the Museum of stroria Armenian (800 AMD per person) I have to say nice and worth a visit even if there are descriptions in English. After the museum we are two steps to abovian Street to the Opera House with its plaza filled with cafes, continue until you reach the cascde with its beautiful gardens. Inside there is a very efficient (and free) lift that rises to the top where you can admire the city and through the haze you can see the outlines of Ararat. Very nice is also the statue of Botero depicting a fat cat. We head towards the road of the barbecue to taste excellent korovatz Lamb (4500 AMD).
Yerevan - Garni - Geghard - Yerevan
We wake up slowly and we head to our local café in the center for breakfast. Yesterday we set up with the driver of the airport and the trip to
Garni Geghard setting the price for 10000 AMD, the alternative is to take the tour starting in a few days (www.satiglobal.com) spending 4500 AMD per person. Contrary to what the guide suggests you can organize the trip to both locations by public transport, because there are direct minibuses to
Garni and here's a pitch where they stop the taxi and from where (maybe) even the minibus for
Geghard (I saw the minibus number 27 out of the monastery) .. The road to
Garni's not really exceptional, there are many works in progress with their holes. We leave
Yerevan and in the background we can see the Ararat and Little Ararat, until
Geghard are 32 kmdi road semi-mountainous. Shortly after we reach the small village of
Garni and our tasista us out of the temple of
Garni (1000 AMD per person), the temple is very nice, overlooking a spectacular valley. On the right of the temple you see the beautiful rock formations that resemble the giant't casevay in Northern Ireland. 9 km from the monastery of
Garni to get
Geghard, also known as a monastery of the spear, where up to dishes and years ago had kept the spear of Longinus, the Roman soldier who pierced the side of Jesus The monastery, which owes part of his fame the fact that it is dug into the rock, is the heritage of UNESCO. Admission is free although it is acceptable to buy a candle (40 AMD) to light in the charming brazier. Although there is a sign will appear where you can not take pictures nor return ... many ignore it. I must say that the site is well worth a visit are the beautiful crosses carved into the rock (Khatchkar), Bella is also the room where there is a bas-relief depicting an eagle catching a lamb with two lions on the side. In the courtyard of the monastery there are lots of hives and do a hot beast go up on the second floor where you enter a small tunnel where you go to a room where we can listen bellisiisma an impressive chorus. Return to
Yerevan and there we leave the great library the Matenadaran (500 AMD per person). In this library are kept ancient books written in Armenian, a beautiful manuscript of the 5th century. Back in town and we go to eat at Poplpvok Jazz coffee, very nice, looks like a boat on an artificial lake ... a little expensive for standard Armenians (6200 AMD).
Yerevan - Echmiadzin - Yerevan
After a nice breakfast (3080 AMD) we head to the "station" of direct minibus to
Echmiadzin which faces the Blue Mosque. We manage to catch a bus to the flight baggage on board during the race (200 AMD per person), the trip takes about 30 minutes left and we are practically at the entrance to the main church. Dishes and step and arrive at the church Mayr tachar sacred to Christians with the Armenian rite. The church is very typical cone carinacon the roof and all of a particular color red. The structure is covered by a beautiful garden with beautiful trees that make a pleasant shade. The interior is quite austere, it strikes me a picture of the last supper where all the apostles, except Judas, have the halo. To the right of the altar there is the treasure room, where there are several relics including the spear of Longinus (the
Geghard), a piece of the ark and a piece of the cross of Jesus Again you do not pay anything for visit. After we rested a bit we take the minibus (this time) to
Yerevan (250 AMD). Returning to
Yerevan we head to the Museum of Children (500 AMD per person) which displays some beautiful drawings from children around the world ... watch this sobering duisegno child finladese depicting the stroke of the bags and the Iraqi with running a hospital.
Yerevan - Sevan - Noratus - Sevan
Telephoned the landlady to hand over the keys, everything is running smoothly and we head to the Opera House for the inevitable breakfast. After we head for the parking of minibuses that
Sevan is at Isahakyan street behind the Paplovok Jazz cafe. Expect aqualche minutes and at 10.30 we leave. The minibus is full and takes about 40 minutes to reach their destination (600 AMD per person). In general, the busses are very comfortable and fast, but have a very small trunk, we considered that we had a trolley just filled the whole trunk, one must consider the possibility of taking an extra seat. As you get off there's the usual taxi driver who offered to do a tour with which we treat a visit to
Noratus and around 7000 for AMD (as much for accompanying us to our accommodation). The road skirts the nicest
Noratus Lake
Sevan Colure a blue-turquoise, after 35 km we arrive to the famous field khachkars. The cemetery can already be glimpsed from the main road, which as usual is full of holes. I must say that the field does not hit me in a special way, so the crosses are all suggestive inlaid and covered by the usual orange lichens, but too close to the weigh lose a lot of atmosphere. Let us return towards
Sevan to visit the ancient monastery of Hayrivank monastery located on a beautiful hill near the lake. The next step is our accommodation which is located on the peninsula just after the monastery of Sevanavank (30 USD per person including three meals). The rest house or house of 'Armenian writers union has a shape a bit special but the view of the lake is beautiful. We arrived right at lunch, the meals included are good although not very abundant. At about 16:30 we go down to the beach which is almost eight the hotel .... certainly do not expect Rimini, because it is trascuratissimo (as is often seen here in
Armenia, papers and bottles everywhere ...... what a pity), however the water is clean although it is quite cold. The evening we spend on the balcony gazing at the beautiful landscape, but here we need a sweatshirts at 1900 meters!.
Sevan - Yerevan - Sevan
Given that even today the weather did not bode well decide to go to
Yerevan, today is Sunday and there's the vernissage the famous outdoor marketplace. At about 8:30 we go down and we go to the esplanade in front of the desert Sevananvank, contrary to what he says in the Lonely minibuses to the town of
Sevan peninsula run from .. well so soon. Indeed wait a few minutes and take a minibus in a few minutes and for 200 AMD (per person) brings us to the parking of minibuses that leave for
Yerevan. Minibuses run frequently to the capital and begin running at 9:00 even though they often expect to fill the half in 45 minutes we are in
Yerevan (1200 AMD) and the first stop is obviously one of the many coffee center breakfast (2150 AMD) and then we head to the vernissage. This marketplace is pretty cool, although it is very hot this is the place to buy souvenirs. The first area we renamed steel sells everything from old transistor radio to the armored door handles, the second area sells crafts very nice. After the vernissage we go to visit the beautiful blue mosque, which overlooks a beautiful and fresh garden with benches where you can rest for a few minutes (the mosque closes at 13 and opens at 18). Across the street you will reach the market orofrutticolo covered recognizable entrance inlaid. Outside there is a guy with a cage that sells live chickens people spend, they buy the chicken and take him by the arm!. Inside there are several stalls selling fresh and dried fruits is a very characteristic. We decide to buy a phone card to call in Italy (50 units AMD 1000) by the classic 0039 and then we go to eat at Old
Yerevan (2910 AMD), after lunch we return to the parking of minibuses to
Sevan. After the usual 40 minutes to arrive here
Sevan and dodging drivers try to find the "stop" bus to the peninsula, queries came out and a general store and the lady tells us that the bus will go from here sooner or later. Wait a few minutes and a lady decides to purchase and give two ice cream cones .. but we did not have the face of fatigue, after just passing a bus useless to ask why no one understands you decide to go and we are lucky we are dropped at the beginning of the peninsula and only pay 200 AMD per person.
Sevan - Vanadzor - Alazaverdi - Vanadzor
Wake up at 9:00 today, quick to pack and deliver the keys of the room prorietaria invites us to stay for breakfast but we can not, the road is curvy and have a delicate stomach. The usual square of Sevananvank take the minibus and we do drop the "station" of direct minibus
Vanadzor (also reached
Alazaverdi and beyond?). The minibus is a bit rickety, there are only two starts with a 10 and a 15 to arrive early if you want to sit!. It starts on time, the minibus was packed!, But fortunately the people down the road. The path up to Dilijan is full of bends and all uphill needless to say the minibus trailing. Shortly after we enter the region of Lori characterized by beautiful forests, sometimes we push someone who is walking alone along the road and that often carries a load is not very fragrant ranging from potatoes to the fish (thank goodness we have not had breakfast!) . The landscape is beautiful and after 1h and 30 'come all'avtokayan of
Vanadzor (1000 AMD per person). Our hotel is very central and very comfortable hotel located in the main square Metropoline (9000 AMD per person) at the entrance there is an old man who hates simapatico (!!!) Berlusconi acts as a concierge and directs us to the 4th floor. Unfortunately IOER the ATM has trimmed the bill from 20000 AMD (42 euro) which is really hard to change, but fortunately there is a bank is overflowing then approach a customer and offer the exchange. Right after we stop at the bar near the bank (the one with the gazebo coca cola) and we also do a great breakfast here and only pay 700 AMD !!!!. At the station we do indicate the minibus minibus
Alazaverdi but there are, the only Sceta are buses. So as usual, just get on the packed bus, the driver makes up a couple of rooms for us to sit, we sit down and do a bit of conversation with their neighbors. After a while we discover that the bus takes 2 hours! too much to do only 50 km, descend and decide to negotiate with a taxi driver on tour today, but in the end we spend 12000th AMD are more than 100 km, then it seems a reasonable price. Also takes advantage of a girl on the bus subsidiary. At last part, the view is really nice to the lady and the driver trying to entertain us but unfortunately the language barrier is very high, strolling happily along the road every type of animal: cows, donkeys, goats, horses and pigs, this gives the idea of how
Armenia is a country cottage. The trip lasts until Alaverdi 1h, reached the country let the lady thanks us giving us a holy card. Hyper reaching the monastery must Hagpat wages and the driver makes a couple of corners from a heart attack before reaching the top are a little old lady walking under a blazing sun and, as often happens in these situations, the driver gives her a ride. Finally we come to the monastery of Hagpat located above the gorge, the view is really beautiful. Both the monastery Hagpat than to Sanahin are under UNESCO protection. The site is very beautiful as is the beautiful khachkars depicting Jesus crucified and the bell .. a site to visit. Got in the car back to Alaverdi and from there take the road up to the monastery of Sanahin, as always there is the temptation to compare the two sites .. we preferred the first. After this visit we return quickly to
Vanadzor, but quickly is a euphemism often remain stuck in the middle of the road because of repeated failures of the medium. For dinner we go to the restaurant much vaunted by the lonely, coffee 999, is not great.
Vanadzor - Yerevan
This morning we do the chick from the usual breakfast yesterday by paying the usual 700 AMD, back to the hotel to prepare for the luggage and go all'avtokayan to take the minibus directly to
Yerevan (1200 AMD per person). The minibus fast splashing through beautiful valleys, in less than two hours we arrive in
Yerevan. A short walk from the underground station there is never used until now because they live in the center. The metro is very convenient to be paid a flat rate of 50 AMD and down when you want, fitting for tonight (last night) Areg hotel is not exactly easy to find because not too well known by locals. The hotel I must say it is nice and clean (21700 AMD) but has a big drawback to the rooms located in the attic have a window air conditioner less nètanto night ... then you die ... I do not recommend to unless you sleep outside the balcony as we did abhbiamo. Never mind tonight as we get off at 3:30 because the flight to Vienna is at 5:40.