Bosnia with scooter

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The street of pain

In the morning I decide to go to Srebrenica. The night I slept little and I feel tense as a violin string. The idea to go there knowing what happened to me restless. I make a very frugal breakfast, I lo stomach in turmoil. Among other things I have to travel over 150 kilometers and make an equal return. I do not know why but I decided not to tell anyone that I go to Srebrenica. I fear that I deterring upon or arouse hostility. On a piece of paper I write the names of countries which meet off the street Milici up to where the last diversion that will bring me in Srebrenica. I stop every 30 kilometers around drinking coffee, and to ask information back here because the signs in Cyrillic and I have no desire to wrong way because the number of kilometers to do so many have already. When arriving at Vasglanica, a town slightly 'larger than the other encountered to date and important crossroads for Srebrenica, I front of a yellow sign with a maximum of six signs in Cyrillic. Fortunately two boys are working in the yard of a house, and I ask explanations to them. Srebrenica not appoint either of them, always convinced that it creates discomfort. Instead the boys watch the plate and I find it again in Bosnia Trieste is known, if only for trafficking of Jeans and gold that have dramatically enhanced the Teresian merchants of the village in the 70s and 80s. Give me very comprehensive information on how to reach Milici and I write the name in Cyrillic on a piece of paper and then, convinced that I will continue to Belgrade, I recommend to bring a kiss to all the girls Belgrade. With my poor English can make some joke spirit and make them laugh (or maybe to laugh my English?). I greet them and after about thirty kilometers Milici and find the junction that leads to Srebrenica. I stop at a breath again and I sit in a restaurant for a coffee. While the boy serves me, the kitchen comes a good smell of Cevapcici they're grilled. He can not hide my Destination: When I asked where I'm going to tell him but does not a fold and shows me the way. Want to chat and asks me to where I come and how far I have done. "Everything with that?" He says, indicating the small Dink. "Very long drive!" Comments. And 'now the one and are in the saddle for 4 hours between a stop and the next. E 'ora che io go and I decided to do the last stretch that separates me from Srebrenica. The wonder what's to eat and after hearing the menu, I decide to return to stop for lunch. We salute and goes back in the saddle. The houses on the road still visible signs of war. Some are half are also being restructured, and then the usual stumps blackened by fire and abandoned by the owners. The signs of grenades formed with the holes ... abstract paintings remind me of the "holes" of Fontana. I close the stomach to think about all the horror happened here. When it appears in the distance the silhouette of the factory shed Potocari where the Dutch Blue Helmets was the command and where they were Refugees fleeing refugees from Srebrenica who was about to capitulate, I come the chills. There is a place to lock in front of the memorial to victims of genocide and, of course, are stopped for inspection. The policeman is not speaks English and delivered to the eye, like a ritual, license, booklet and a green card. E 'un po' gruff, insists the talk in store also know that if I do not understand. Keep calm and smile. Him look at the license and exclaims "Oh, italijanski!" "Problems?" the I wonder. "Nema problema!" I indicates the memorial park and repeats: "Nema problema". A semicircle carved marble contains the names of the victims in order alphabetically. A man runs with his eyes probably Subscriptions looking for a relative or a friend, keeping a hand pressed on the mouth. I'm ashamed as a thief when the only shooting photos in the Memorial. Edge seems indifferent, the police and chat laugh with each other in the shadow of the roof of casamatta supported the fence that separates the road from the factory. The shed looks like a place of memory left and the shame of Europe. I go out and leave the scooter in the street to make these 7 kilometers missing in Srebrenica. In a few minutes to town, and now semi - Missing any of the superstructure, the water comes only hours and so the current. Here a time there were but the baths were destroyed by grenades in an attempt, however successful, to stop the supply of water during the siege. At one time this was a rich and flourishing city of the silver mines (srebo). That of Sasa in particular was equipped so technologically modern and before of war committed in 1800 people of which 400 were miners. From'93 to '95, The year of capitulation, Srebrenica was declared a protected area and by the close of siege by Bosnian Serb militias. Inexplicably, at least from a human point of view, May 30 1995 The UN said that the forces of interposition of Blue Helmets in Bosnia had to step aside, a decision that would have been fatal for the city. A couple of months later, July 9 the Bosnian Serb army commanded by General Ratko Mladic, began to bombard the city without truce. The Blue Helmets, who were forced to non-intervention, sought to convince the population to surrender by promising them the assistance of the air NATO who would never come. Not only that, but in the meantime, threatened with death, the Dutch Blue Helmets Mladic delivered to their uniforms, their weapons and the means of transport. The men of Mladic undisturbed so they went to town on board the armored Assembly accepted from the population as liberators. The two weeks following the inhabitants would have been a real nightmare. About 8,000 men between 12 and 77 years - but the association "Women of Srebrenica" has long insisted so that the figure will be updated at the 10,072-were taken prisoner, separated from women and summarily passed by the arms. 1800 of them who took refuge in the engine plant where he was the command of the Dutch Blue Helmets were cut in the miter reeds in front, where now stands the Memorial. The few survivors testified before the courts because that could hurt, pretending dead at night to escape taking advantage of tiredness of soldiers who all day had fired on their comrades. What is left to know and understand this tragedy, one of pages of the most shameful history written after the Second World War, is the truth politics remains a mystery why the international forces
these have not done anything to avoid a bloodbath, because NATO has not supported with air strikes, and why managers dell'Armija of the Bosnian army in the area have been suddenly moved a few days before the surrender of the city. Among the various things that had outraged public opinion, there was the Find a movie in which Father Gavril Maric blessed immediately before the slaughter weapons and butchers. When I raised allotment and it is as if I had lifted a weight. But I am convinced that anyone thinking of making a trip to Bosnia today
can not exclude from its itinerary Srebrenica. The massacre here occurred
remain one of the most shameful events that occurred in Europe in the century