Nostalgic Prague

We were in Prague in 2002 and the charm of the city had affected us deeply. That is why we decided to take advantage of the Christmas holidays to make a jump, right after New Year, in order to avoid the crowds of tourists that usually invade the city for the celebrations.
We organized the trip completely alone, as we do now for many years. Alitalia flights purchased on Expedia at € 199 including taxes on hotel and Lastminute. The hotel we found was the Atlantic Hotel, in Na Porici 9 to Praga1. Cost of a room including breakfast was € 325 for 5 nights. We bought here in Rome Cook Travel from the Czech koruna, about 5000 equivalent to 200 € (26.6 kroner for 1 €).

 

First day: So much people!

We left at 9 to 1 January 2006 from Rome Fiumicino on to Prague. We have sacrificed the celebrations of the end of the year ... but in the end there are no more concerned now. The first surprise was to find many people who started at the morning of the first of the year!
Two hours of flight and arrive in Prague. The time is not forgiving, we knew it and you do not have illusions. In Prague, the winter is with the "I" capitalized! Temperature -1 ° C, and a lot of fog so much snow! The week between Christmas and New Year is snowed tantissimo with daytime temperatures have not exceeded the -10 ° C!
The formalities for customs are fast, take your luggage and we head towards the bus station opposite the airport, not before purchasing our subscription. Before leaving the terminal on the right is a box with the sign DPP (Dopravní Podnik) that sells tickets and passes for public transportation. We bought a season ticket valid for 7 days, on the whole transport network in Prague, but not limited to the cost of 280 Kr To reach the Metro (3 lines), you take one of the following bus routes: 119, 100, 179 , 225. However do not worry! With the purchase of your data will be also a useful map of the transport network in Prague, and needed to clear the network of trams in particular.
In our hotel is very central, in the district of the old town of Stare Mesto, 50 meters from the underground (yellow line) to Namesti Republicky. We arrive at the hotel around two in the afternoon. It 'very nice, the staff speaks a good Italian. The rooms are very spacious and clean. Also in the lobby there is free internet for hotel guests!
Arrange the bags and go looking for something to put on the teeth as they are almost three ... and the advantage to see the last day it opened on the Christmas market in Old Town Square, Namesti Starometské. The atmosphere is fairytale even if it is very cold and there's lots of people. We take two hot dogs (30 Kr each) and two glasses (50 Kr each) of hot wine (I drink a lot!). prices are a little 'higher than our memories but it is also a very tourist market and in the center ... so it's normal.
We head towards the Charles Bridge (Karluv most) and the crowd of tourists becomes less and less content ... it seems that there are several thousand people on the bridge ... not enjoy the walk. We continue our way to Prague Castle (Prazsky Hrad) and go up above to make some photos. Decided to proceed step is for cold weather but also because the city we know it and therefore we should not stop every two minutes to see the map. Back towards the lower part of town we stop in one of the many local crowd the streets to the castle. Our choice falls on Birreria Pvnice U Glaubicu in Malostranke Namesti where we take a dark beer (25 Kr ... less than € 1!) And the hot (45 Kr). The aim is to thaw because of the cold and snow are pretty dazed. Unfortunately, winter has the handicap of very short day at 15.30 ... it is already night, and you always have the feeling that it is late at night ...
We continue our stroll through the center, watching the windows still decorated for the holidays, trying not to be dragged from the crowd.
For dinner we chose a very famous brewery in Prague, Kolkovna owned by the brewery Pilsner czech. Is in V Kolkovne 8 but when we arrive, we realize that, since the first of the year, almost all premises offering fixed price menus, many of which (because of the thousands of tourists who flock to the city) have not the slightest semblance of a local dish! Not to mention the prices that were close to those of the center of Rome.
We take for losers and we go to Wenceslas Square (Vaclav Namesti) where we recalled a couple of local not bad. But even here disappointment: despite only 21:30 already closed because "tired" of the previous night ... your luck is that we come across an Irish pub nearby, which will not be local but at least it makes us eat without problems. Jama is called and is located in V Jame 7 just around the square. Take two beers and a steak, a piece of fried cheese in two and spend 335 kr (just over € 10).
Let's go back to the hotel rather knock the cold and still determined to do what we proposed at the beginning of the holiday: to see the outskirts of Prague.

Kutna Hora

Morning with 1 ° C and cloudy. But we are determined and nothing can stop us from our goals. After a hearty breakfast at the hotel (buffet very rich and well-stocked) go to the central train station (Praha Hlavní nádraží). To get there by metro and get off at Hlavni nadrazi.
We have to go to Kutna Hora, 65 km east of Prague. Ask the ticket is not easy, since some branches sell only local routes, other than national and more international. All are written in Czech and few people speak a ticket to the po 'd'inglese. In the end we can understand ourselves, we take two tickets a / r (224 kr) and run towards the track. We have a few minutes of time to measure our 10:01 train. Obviously the track is shown only the final destination and to be certain of the train go up and ask a few guys: Italian! Unbelievable but true ... however, they also go to Kutna Hora, and we confirm that the train is the right one. The trip lasts an hour and the trains are pretty heated. Exchange gossip with our with our neighbors and decide to make the trip together. Kutna Hora was included in the list of World Heritage sites by UNESCO in 1996. It is one of the oldest cities of the Czech Republic, and has long contended for the title in Prague Capital. To see it today does not appear: it is a small country, well-kept but has nothing to do with Prague.
The train stops at Sedlec, about 3 km from Kutna Hora. The first thing you need to see is the Ossuary of Sedlec (Kostnice): there are the remains of more than 40,000 died of the plague, a self-styled artist who has transformed into works of art: giant chandeliers, murals, all lampholders ... made with human bones! The entrance costs 70 Kr all'ossario (to which you have to add 30 Kr if you want take pictures ... I have done the gnorri and nobody told me nothing). Remember that in winter close to one, two and reopen again at the 16th So do not plan to return after having regard to Kutna Hora, because you may find it closed, as happened to several boys. Then we go on foot to Kutná Hora under a drizzle not bad. The country is nice but nothing particularly special and we eat our hands because the most beautiful things to see are closed on Monday: the Cathedral of Santa Barbara, the Little Castle and the Museum of silver Czech, nice because you can do even trips in the silver mines. Kutna Hora must own its former glory to the silver mines that passed through (now I am exhausted!) Subsoil.
On the advice of some residents, we went to eat in a small pension, U Kata also has a very nice restaurant. The menu is written in Czech and hung on the wall. If you ask one written in English will bring you a menu with prices much higher and international dishes. Do not give in to temptation and make like us: order by the board, after a few attempts the waitress will give you a hand just to reward the effort! We ate well, a nice plate of meat dumplings and seasoned by a good beer and we spent two 170 Kr (€ 6.5). prices are significantly lower in the city and this is also noticeable in the shops. The crystal is half of the city, such as ceramics and souvenirs of all kinds. The advice is obvious: if you decide to make a trip out of Prague does not let escape the chance to make your own gifts away from the capital, save you a lot and avoid even cheat.
We continue our tour, the weather worsened and the rain, always frozen, it becomes increasingly dense. The temperature is 1 ° C. to return to the station take a bus (9 kr to head the ticket), but we make the mistake to go down about 1 km before to go to a store of crystals are seen to same ... the 17 and the store closed at 16! So a happy Easter as we walk to the station where we discover that the train will not go to Prague first two hours! One of the 16 we missed the big. But do not worry: we take one for Kolnin and then a train to Prague. The second train is a great crowd of people and we are very lucky to find a seat in a compartment. We travel with the light off, convinced that it was broken, as passengers talking in the dark since our arrival. But when the inspector arrives we discover that the light and also works well, but the latter had decided to stay ... in the dark! Strange people!
When we arrive it is now almost 7 and we decide to move into a hotel, change and go to eat something. In 2002 we were in a wonderful local restaurant near Vaclavske namesti (Wenceslas Square) in the center. We recalled a rather "hostile" towards foreigners, with a menu written only in Czech and waiters with no patience. But prices and excellent food at really. Lonely on the find and confirm the description of our memories. The restaurant is called "U Purkmistra" and is in Vodickova 26 Praha 1. The interior has remained
that, but the atmosphere that you breathe is very different: we can accept a waiter in a multilingual Italian pretty good to us a table and asks what we should drink. The menu is only in Czech but we see that inside there are only foreigners, mostly Italians and Germans. The waiters are friendly and speak several languages and does not explain why the menu is in Czech. The prices are quite high for the kind of local feel and the waiters even mention the "placet Lonely" to the various menuù offered. In fact, the guide says that this is the local top of Prague for the pork with dumplings (on the menu appears as purkmistrova misa), but the helpful staff continues to tell other dishes, of course much more expensive! However, we order two dishes of pork with dumplings (185 Kr each) two beers medium (45 Kr each) a strudel (89 Kr) and a Berechovka (80 Kr) for a toale of 674 Kr! Really figure out a rationale for the type of enclosure and the quality of the food, the typical tourist place. Done without passion, without any concern to the table to put hot Italian. An incredible disappointment, if you can avoid like the plague!

Karlstein Castle

The sky is cloudy and the temperature is -1 ° C. We have now given up on being able to see a portion of the sky, the estimates are not particularly good and the staff there takes away any remaining hope. The day is dedicated to the visit of the castle of Karlstein. It is about 30 km from Prague and the train takes about 30 minutes to reach it. The cost of the ticket for two people return is 116 Kr and if you want to offend the tizia train station ticket office in Prague Central ... pulled out the credit card!
Take the 9:55 train and arrive at its destination at 10.25. From the station you walk for about twenty minutes, crossing a long bridge over the frozen river. A good performance is obtained on arrival at the small village of Karstein: on top of the hill stands the imposing snow castle built in 1348. The air, however, is almost saturated with coal dust due to heating of the case (here the gas is still a chimera) and after half an hour your clothes will be soaked all'inverosimile! Along the road to get to the castle there are dozens of souvenir shops that sell everything, especially the crystal priced significantly cheaper in Prague. If you need to shop this is the best place, without a shadow of doubt. To arrive at the castle, it takes about thirty minutes and when you get to the top of the show worth the effort! Across the valley to your feet, dozens of miles of small hills innveate, roads and small villages, a really good show. The entrance to the castle costs 200 Kr and you can not enter without a guide (English only), and especially forget photos and shooting are prohibited and can not even make a payment. I obviously I have some photos of "contraband" because the motivation is purely economic: the end of a turn, there is a small shop that sells souvenirs and photos filmini are back ... but scemi mica, the Czechs! The tour lasts about an hour and the guide speaks English understandable even for those who do not chew as much. I shall spare you the comments about the history of Catello, which you can read on any drive.
After a few photos of Rite descend into the country in search of something to put the teeth on the road and find a very nice (there are many!) Which is called Restaurace Bohemia. Inside a large fire, furnished with wooden benches and flowery curtains on the windows. Meu a fixed order of 95 Kr (one) and two beers (45 Kr each) for a total of 280 in two Kr. Menus are offered in a potato soup (hot and black with lots of bread!) And a good plate of goulash. Refresh shine and means (the beer is produced locally and has an alcohol content of 12 ° C) we are going to make some purchases in different shops in the village. Among the souvenirs we take a different set of glasses for liqueur made crystal worked (with warranty) for 660 Kr In Prague there we took one! I recommend the wine to make a gift to friends or relatives (90 Kr a bottle of red). Cold (the temperature is decidedly lower than in Prague) go to the station at 16:30 and take the train that takes us back to town.
The evening. Wandering the streets of the city center and close to Wenceslas Square we go in another room suggested by the Lonely (we always two chances at all!) The Ceska Hospoda V Krakovska Krakovska in 20th Will prove an excellent choice: the menu is in Czech and the girl talking at the tables and includes a few words of English. The atmosphere is typically Bohemian: we ordered two dishes of the day or the Staroc Panev and Králík. Are two meat dishes (not really remember what kind) and a seasoned stew with potato dumplings and sauerkraut and the other with cranberry jam. A beer (32 Kr) for a total (two) 411 Kr This I recommend just because the food is well prepared and portions are plentiful and full of condiments.

Walking across Prague

When we get up later than usual sky nuvolo notice some tassel twirl in the sky. We decided to do a nice tour of Prague, focusing on the area of Petrin Hill, which in 2002 had not made time to visit.
We also do a walk around the neighborhood that lies at the foot of the hill, looking for the reported "markets" but of course in winter there are just not! The hill is very nice to go on, you can choose the hard way (on foot!) And comfortable (with cable). If you subscribe to cable is included else you like a bus ticket. A cable car makes half a stop (short) for you to get out and go to the restaurant adjacent. Arrived at the top of the cold is biting and the visual spectacle is a bit disappointing to see one imagines the city to its feet but the trees prevent a clear view beautiful. At the top there is a large slice of the hill occupied by a military installation, and then there are several attractions: the labyrinth, the Petrin Tower (similar in construction to the Tour Eiffel, Paris) el'Osservatorio astronomical. When we went we were all closed except for the observatory. The intense cold and snow covered the ground thoroughly just were not met for a lovely walk but still decide to go on foot to the path which leads to the eighteenth Kostel Sv Michala (church of San Michele) construction wood from Ukraine. Dismantled and rebuilt piece by piece is in the forest of Petrin in a state of semiabbandono.
Near the start of the cable (Vítezné, where the tram passes) we had lunch in a small locale (Stara Praha). With 275 Kr took two hot soups, two beers and two desserts. In the afternoon we do a tour in the north of Prague, going to the area of the stadium and Toyota (where the game enthusiasts the Sparta Prague and the Czech National). For those interested in front of the stage there is a souvenir shop of Sparta, unfortunately closed for Christmas!
The area the university is full of parks, but the season and especially not the day to encourage walking. So we decide to put in the subway and go to one of the major commercial centers that represent the "new Prague." As we descend to the underground station Andel and we head to the Novy Smichov, the commercial center in the area of Prague 5 (south west). Dates back to 2002 and is huge, extending for several hundred meters. When snow starts to arrive! The center is filled with shops of all kinds. It 'time to sales and then there are many attractive offers. Inside the mall there is also a cinema, an area dedicated to bowling, several restaurants and a large Carrefour. Leave the mall and go in front (in Lidicka 42) coffee KAVA.KAVA.KAVA. E 'a chain of American origin, where you can drink a coffee and take some sweets. Also, if you have a laptop, you can sail wi-fi internet. There are many students who, with their laptop, spend the afternoon studying, researching or just surfing the internet. Take a hot chocolate (45 Kr), hot tea (35 Kr) and a strudel (35 Kr) just to move an hour away from snow.
For dinner we decide to not turn away, the weather inclement and fatigue suggest us to stay in the area. And then we go right next to the metro Andel where the Pizzeria Corleone (Na Belidle 42). The origins could be no question, the space is very large with huge windows on the street and frameworks within which recall the most famous mafia characters in history. Obviously the staff are not Italian and the menu (at least!) In English / Italian. We now advance the pizza is baked in wood and is very good (better than other pizza in Rome!). The dough is low and the pizza is well seasoned. There is also a large selection of pizzas and appetizers. Take two bruschetta with tomato (46 Kr a portion) and an eggplant and zucchini pizza (98 Kr) and a Corleone (119 Kr). Two beers medium (26 Kr) and a small (16 Kr). The total bill is 377 Kr and frankly we get up really satisfied and happy. Only one recommendation: the waiter no matter what you ordered bread. Usual story: if you do not want to pay, (and then we do with bread if I order the bruschetta and pizza!) Send it back!

Discovering Prague

On the morning of 5, the sky is gray and of course some flake falls to make it even more magical atmosphere. After breakfast we go to the Jewish cemetery of Židovské Hrbitovy where the TOMBRE of Franz Kafka. To get down with the metro stop Zelivskeho, the entrance of the cemetery is directly opposite. Kafka's grave is well marked and easy to find. The atmosphere is really disturbing, with snow covering the graves and paths of access to various sections of the cemetery.
We head towards the north of the city and we look at the Convent of St Agnes (Klaster Anežky Sv) in Stare Mesto. The entry pay 40 Kr and visit the monastery is quite interesting even if it is not, in our opinion, a must for Prague: If you do not have time and skip this visit, there are other things you deserve!
For lunch we move into the area Dejvicka. Here is the University area and we were curious, from former students, to see how the passing of our fellow Czechs. Even in Prague, as in other European cities, university campuses are not similar to ours. Not located in congested areas of the city, there are large green spaces and buildings functional. Even Prague is no exception despite obvious signs of communism in the construction industry and in education. There are several university faculties, all well connected to each other. As the holiday season there is not much movement and the classrooms do not accommodate at the time of our visit lessons.
At we head towards a place recommended by Lonely Plante, La Pizzeria Grosseto (Dejvicka meters). Walk along the road and huge trees (Jugoslavskych partyzanu) and the number 8 is the pizzeria run by Italians. Compared to the description environment there praises, a little to do with the Corleone Pizzeria we have already visited the other side of town. Undecided continue southward, along the same path in search of a tavern czech. We find a hundred meters after the Pizzeria, the name is "U Popolu". I do not think there can be a space more typical of this. Environment spartan but clean, but two waiters very very bored and a few selected guests: an old woman, a retired bricklayer and a few. Obviously, the language (only) is the Czech: is true for the menu to the waiters and so if you are not armed with leadership, a small vocabulary or a good dose of intuition, this place is not for you.
We have taken two beers medium (18 Kr each) a goulash gambrinus (79 Kr) and a "Passero Moravian (Moravisky Vrabec) to 59 Kr This is one of the dishes of Prague and it is quite difficult to find it in its original version . This is a nice piece of pork stew with cabbage and other vegetables rather complicated to explain. Lunch for two cost us 174 Kr, ie less than € 7! Questions are the real prices of Prague, the Prague popular now disappeared because of the large flow of tourists.
Round off the account to 200 Kr and the waiter is not just a blow twice asked us if we were wrong, making gestures to the hell of the account. But it was really patient and very available so we decided to offer him a couple of beers to our health.
In the afternoon we devote to the visit of the shrine of Loreto. Within the Castle, in the West and to get there take tram 22 or 23. The metro stops are not close. The entrance is quite expensive (90 Kr) and you'll find along the way arcigne guards that will prevent you to photograph and resume. Attention because of other parts, here are very strict and some tourists have been seized its equipment (promptly returned at) as a result of the violation of the ban. The main attraction of the shrine is his treasure, and in particular the "Sun of Prague," a 90 cm high monstrance in silver and solid gold adorned with over 6200 diamonds ... at lap ahead of a welcome surprise: there is a event to celebrate the Magi bringing gifts to Jesus Kings Magi have even carried it real camels and there are lots of children and families after the event in photos and applause moved. Manco has started to say a thick snow that makes it all very fascinating! We understand the scope of the event when we see the TV cameras of the Czech state, which incorporates comments and "LIVE" event!
After we head to a pub for a refreshing grog ... the cold is very intense and the sanctuary is mostly open-air!
After a needed rest stop we are prepared (but not thrilled!) To exit again and go to dinner. The goal is the Pizzeria Kmotra (V Jircharich 12). Reported by the guide Lonely and confirmed by the reception of our hotel, it seems that it is the most famous pizzeria in Prague, which serves huge pizzas cooked in wood oven. To get there by metro get off at Narodni Trida, 10 minutes walk and you will reach the goal. We followed the advice of our receptionist: go early! The restaurant is not very great and the place is short, given the attendance and non-local tourist! However if you do not find a table for you do not despair because the waiter will seat you, they divide the table with other diners! Downstairs there is the oven, run by a chef but very very lazy and indolent who puts all his little enthusiasm to engage diners in its activities of pizza ... and say that he should be the main attraction of the space, making twirl pizzas in the air ... we take two bruschette (huge) a portion (giant) pasta alla Siciliana (capers, anchovies, mozzarella, black olives and tomatoes) and a pizza margherita. A sweet, an espresso (decent) and three beers for a total average of 425 Kr Good dinner, good price considering that we are right in the center. Our last dinner, we are fully satisfied. We make a lap in the center and go to sleep.

End of the tour

Last day. We are a little sad, we do our luggage and a full breakfast. We leave for the last few purchases at supermarkets near the hotel (and Absinthe Becherovka liqueur most popular) because shopping at the airport is expensive ... around noon we left our luggage at the hotel and road to the airport. Metro and bus in half an hour we are the terminal. Ready for departure with sadness but with great satisfaction to be made once again overwhelmed by the breathtaking beauty of Prague. Therefore, we say, there's no two without three! Until the next!