Corsica. My tour around the island in 11 days. France

Corsica Low Cost

It was for some years that we thought to Corsica as a possible destination for a summer holiday in a position to combine our passion for travel on the road with the sea and wants to spend without folly, given that next year we must marry!
This is how I (Federico Chierichetti Milan) and my future mogliettina Daniela we booked via internet a car and a cabin on the ferry to Corsica Ferries departing from Savona Bastia on August 5 at 23. The return of the 16 (day trip) so we booked from Bastia to Livorno (on some additional days of vacation in Versilia). Once defined the space of a mass (in Bastia Bastia from along the coast clockwise and doing stage every night in a different place) we booked via internet hotels by going directly to the facility. So we had the certainty of not having to run all day in search of a place in the middle of August, more able to reach the various hotels in the late evening (reservations were nearly all secured by credit card).
The cost: two for eleven days, traveling by car, always staying in nice hotels at 2 or 3 star restaurants and dining in the average price in all we spent 2500 euros. Of these about 350 ferry to / r (including the cabin to same), 1000 euros for hotel and 600 euro for dinner (60 euros a night on average). The rest is gone for gasoline (we have come on 1200 km), expenses, etc ... Needless to say that you can spend much less mooolto, reserving only the deck (or traveling during the day), sleeping and eating in the camping food prepared by se '. We opted to do it on the road, but also quite handy, not deny anything short.
So here is what we managed to see in Corsica in 10 days.

 

Cape Corso, from Bastia to Canari (120 kms done)

The ferry arrives at dawn in Bastia. We are relaxed because we slept peacefully in our cabin. First we give a mega-based breakfast Croissant huge square in Saint Nicolas. Then spend a couple of hours to stroll around the city between the old port and citadel fortified "Terra Nova". The climate is freschino and also a little 'cloudy.
We start then northerly along the road that circumnavigates Cape Corso. The landscape already allows us to understand some things: Corsica means cliffs overlooking the blue sea with narrow, winding streets that cross the coast and often spread to the mountains. Already, because Corsica is also and above all, a huge mountain in the middle of the Mediterranean. We are pleased to be coming in this slice of France that if it were not for giving birth to Napoleon, the French have little in common things.
The first stop is in Macignaggio where we know that part of the "path of customs officers." There is a nice sun and we decide to take part. From the beach Macignaggio turn of the path (reported) and in an hour we arrive at the gates of the natural site of Capandula, a beautiful stretch of coast, where we stop to take a while 'sunshine and make us the first bath! Let's go back to the car to the one and we leave at a time of Barcaggio, the northern end of ditone. We stop at Tollara a Pelino further west, where we eat a pizza with goat cheese in a little bar on the beach.
The next destination is the beautiful landscape of Centuri. From here the road to the south, on the west coast of Cape Corso, possibly becoming even more dizzying. We find a semi-beach and we stop for another bathroom. Canari reach the goal of the day, in the late afternoon. The hotel is actually a restored convent and adapted a bed & breakfast. It's called the Fioretti and Residence is located in the hills, with a splendid view over the sea, 400 meters below. The rooms are essential, but clean and comfortable and more cheap: 75 euros. Quick shower and dinner based on fish in the sea at the restaurant U Scogliu Canelle of Marina, a small uninhabited village at the foot of Canari.

From Canari to St. Florent (80 kms done)

Sveglia presto. La prima tappa è Nonza un paesino a picco sul mare con una splendida torre genovese e una spiaggia di ciottoli immensa e deserta. Per raggiungerla a piedi (volendo la si può raggiungere anche in auto prendendo uno sterrato 2 km a nord di Nonza) mettete in conto una discesa di un quarto d’ora per una stradina faticosissima che parte dal centro del paese (la salita è terribile, soprattutto se fa caldo). Da bravi sportivi non ci facciamo spaventare e la raggiungiamo facilmente. È davvero molto bella, anche se non è facile fare il bagno perché ci sono correnti forti. Ci accontentiamo di sederci sulla battigia e farci sommergere dalle onde.
Proseguiamo per Patrimonio, appena fuori da St. Florent, famoso per il suo vino. Giriamo qualche cantina e ci portiamo a casa un ottimo moscato dolce e qualche bottiglia di rosso. È davvero piacevole visitare queste cantine e assaggiare il loro buon vino.
Arriviamo a St Florent nel pomeriggio. Staremo qui due notti, perché dedicheremo un giorno intero a percorrere in mountain bike (le bici si noleggiano ovunque) i sentieri del deserto des Agriates.
L’hotel è La Dolce Notte, appena fuori dal centro. È davvero carino e le camere hanno tutte vista mare e una terrazza che letteralmente è a mezzo metro dall’acqua! Per questo la colazione è servita solo in camera.! Davvero consigliabile. Costa 130 euro a notte.
Con la macchina facciamo qualche giro e andiamo anche all’uffcio del turismo per decidere quale tra i tanti sentieri degli Agriates percorrere in bici il giorno dopo. Alla fine decidiamo per un sentiero di 24 km a/r che parte dalla frazione di Casta (8 km a ovest di St Florent) e conduce alla spiaggia di Saleccia. Prenotiamo le mountain Bike al Relais de Saleccia, proprio all’imbocco del sentiero. Dopo un bagno e un po’ di sole al tramonto e dopo una rapida doccia facciamo una passeggiata nel centro di St. Florent (davvero carino e pieno di vita) e ceniamo al porto alla Gaffe.

St. Florent (Agriates desert)

Buonora of starting at a time of Casta where to park your car and collect the bike. Our backpacks are well supplied with water and food! Fortunately it is cloudy, then it is too hot not to tackle the adventure with mountain biking. The way is not difficult because it is all downhill. In an hour and a quarter walk down the twelve km that separate us from the beach of Saleccia immersed in a wild and fascinating. Ovunque maquis air filled with the scents of summer. Of course, looking down the path that we are quite concerned about the return! However happy we get to the beach (beautiful, surrounded by the sea and a salt pond that is the nature reserve) and we stop until it gets too crowded (it may rise even with off-road).
The back is really tiring and strongly advice to those who are not trained to a minimum not to try especially if it is hot. We, who have good wind, we put just under two hours and consume only the return, over a liter of water each. Fortunately, I repeat, it is cloudy and does not at all hot. We come out exhausted but really happy for having made and lived experience of having fun!
We rest at the hotel about an hour and dinner again at the port, the pleasant Petit Caporal, more economic gaffe (55 euros against 80). Advisable. To bed early.

Da St. Florent a Porto (170 km percorsi)

Ci alziamo di presto perché oggi ci attende la tappa più lunga del viaggio, da St. Florent a Porto, lungo la strada che attraversa prima la Balagna e poi una parte del parco regionale della Corsica.
La prima tappa è Ile Rousse, una città più che un paese. Al di là del centro storico non è particolarmente interessante, quindi preferiamo proseguire verso Calvi. Decidiamo però di non seguire la strada costiera, ma di deviare verso l’interno. Vogliamo visitare alcuni dei paesini arroccati sui monti dalla Balagna. E così visitiamo Pigna, Calenzana e St Antonino (definito uno dei più bei paesi dell’intera Francia). Arriviamo ad Algajola, sulla costa prima di Calvi, verso le due. Ci scegliamo una caletta (scogli) deserta lungo la ferrovia, poco dopo l’ufficio del turismo (la spiaggia di Algajola è troppo affollata). Ci facciamo un bel bagno, mangiamo al sacco e ci prendiamo un po’ di sole.
Arriviamo a Calvi nel primo pomeriggio. La città, che orbita intorno al porto turistico, è davvero carina, piena di viuzze con negozietti che catturano subito l’attenzione della Dany. Visitiamo la cittadella, davvero imponente. Un vento fresco rende le nostre camminate meno faticose.
Ripartiamo alla volta di Porto. I circa 50 km che ci restano, sono lungo una strada davvero bellissima. Poco prima di Galeria la strada lascia la costa per risalire la valle del fiume Fango poi, come per incanto, superato il passo di Palmarella, si riaffaccia sul golfo di Girolata e sulla riserva di Scandola. Ci fermiamo sul ciglio della strada proprio in corrispondenza del passo (non siamo gli unici) e la vista, da 500 metri d’altezza, è davvero mozzafiato. Sono le quasi le 5 del pomeriggio e il sole comincia a conferire al paesaggio un colore caldo. Da qui parte un percorso di trekking che in 2 ore porta a Girolata, un paesino raggiungibile solo a piedi o via mare. Noi procediamo verso Porto. La strada è sempre più a strapiombo, per fortuna ci sono lavori in corso che stanno allargando la sede stradale. Il colore delle rocce progressivamente si fa rossiccio come a preannunciare l’avvicinarsi delle Calanques, un tratto di costa tra Porto e Piana dichiarato sito naturale tutelato dall’UNESCO. Arriviamo a Porto verso le 7. Prendiamo posto in albergo (Les Flots Bleu, carino, con le camere nuove e con vista sul mare e sulla torre di avvistamento genovese) e facciamo in tempo a farci un rapido giro per il paese visitando la torre genovese che domina la baia e che è stata ben restaurata. È il tramonto e la vista è eccezionale. Dopo la doccia ceniamo al ristorante La Mer, caro (90 euro) e non particolarmente buono, ma in compenso direttamente sul mare. Un concerto nella vicina piazza centrale ci fa compagnia.

From Porto to Cargese (70 kms done)

We dedicate a few hours to relax about the (and deserted because of the hours are 9) beach of Porto. Then, in a few minutes drive to the famous Calanques arrive, just before the village of Piana. Parking to the least worst (there is no parking, but people will stop anywhere) and we do the walk of the "Head of a Dog", which brings in half in the middle of this spectacle of nature. Really a photogenic place! Red rocks overlooking the blue sea. 400 meters below the sea is flooded with boats of all kinds. Imagine how beautiful this place must be seen from the sea.
The next stop is the beach of Marina di Ficajola. This is achieved by taking a detour from Piana. The road is narrow! The beach is lovely, although a little 'crowded, but we prefer the secluded nearby rocks to sand. Right time for a bath and a picnic lunch and then start to turn the beach of Arone just south of Capu Rossu. Here we pause a little 'more, and also crushed a nap in the sun.
Cargese arrive in the afternoon. The town is not nothing that there are two churches (one celebrated with the Orthodox rite). The hotel (Les Saint Jean) is not much, but it is clean and cheap (75 euros). We do a quick cost to Spar and then smeared it on the beach until sunset.
Dinner at the restaurant of the same name. It will be the best meal of the trip and an affordable price (50 euro eating courses and fish dishes). Truly recommended.

Da Cargese a Porto Pollo (150 kms done)

The first stage is a different beach, one of Liamone, just south of Sagone. In the morning is beautiful, deserted and fought the wind that shakes the sea. We continue towards the Gulf of Lava, where there awaits a beach of fine white sand.
We arrive around noon in Ajaccio. Before we visit "Point de la Parade" or the tip of the promontory to the west of the city, dominated the customary and Genoese tower with views of the famous Sanguinaires Island, the sanctuary of many species of migratory birds. Return visit to Ajaccio, birthplace of Napoleon. The steps required are the Maison Bonaparte and the church of the baptism of Napoleon, a walk through the streets of the center and a visit to the Museum Fesch. A quick tour of the rooms allows us to see some works by Italian artists such as Titian, Botticelli, Veronese etc ... With the same ticket to visit the chapel where they kept the remains of the Bonaparte family (Napolenone excluded, of course, that rests in Les Invalides, Paris). Ajaccio really deserves a break. It is a cosmopolitan and lively city, full of interesting places.
Let us go on to Porto Pollo deviating from the main road to visit the small village of Coti Chiavari preceded by the ruins of an abandoned prison in early 1900.
We arrive at your destination in the late afternoon. The hotel is Les Eucaliptus, nice (to us, we booked only one night, touching one of the few rooms not yet renovated. I am more comfortable and cheaper than the others. We spend 75 euros). Dinner at Les Pirates, a place to see that does not inspire much confidence, but the cuisine is all respect (the excellent warm goat cheese with honey). We spend approx. 55 euro.

From Porto Pollo to Tizzano (100 kms done)

The day is not beautiful. Better, because now we just sea and many visits.
The first stop is at the prehistoric site of Filitosa, the most famous of Corsica. The visit is very interesting, all in the midst of Dolmen and Menhir. The setting is truly impressive. In addition the climate a little 'gray, cool and windy, which gives a mysterious.
We continue on to Sartene, most of the city ran the race. The town, a maze of narrow alleys, is perched on a spur and to reach the old town you are on a steep staircase. I take this opportunity to buy some 'honey and jams. Sartene is beautiful, really worth a visit.
We continue towards the tiny village of Fozzati, a place that gave birth to the Dove, the famous heroine Stroke. The place is desert, far away from the tourist trail. But we can feel you should be quiet island off the season. Go only if you have a 'oretta who advances. Lunches on the road in the company of a group of cows intrigued by my sandwich Figatello.
We continue towards the South and we stop to visit the small village of Campomoro dominated by a magnificent Genoese tower from which you can enjoy a beautiful view of the whole cape.
Few miles before we stop Tizzano at the prehistoric site of Palagghiu. Here, walking on uneven ground I lose balance, fall and I am peeling elbow and leg. Nothing serious, I put a couple of patches and continue.
Tizzano to arrive just in time to take place in a hotel (Hotel du Golfe, excellent location, overlooking the sea, even more than in St Florent). After the shower dinner from Chez Antoine a very nice place with outdoor terrace. There is wind and freddino ago, but the dinner, always on the basis of courses and fish dishes, is excellent. We spend less than 60 euros.

From Tizzano to Bonifacio (100 kms done)

The first stop is the archaeological site that includes Cauria Menhir alignments of Stantari and Rinaiu addition to the famous Dolmen Fontanacce. We do the entire route (free) absolutely alone. Stupendo.
Then we stop for lunch at the beach in Punta Roccapina in front of the famous rock in the shape of Leo. The dirt is pretty malconcio, but the C3 is not particularly affected.
Bonifacio to arrive in early afternoon. Take place in a hotel (The Hotel Caravelle, the most expensive of the trip, with its 170 euro, but really comfortable).
First with 20 euro take a boat in an hour that makes us see Bonifacio in all its magnificence from the sea. It is really impressive to see where they were built the houses. It seems all so insecure! The sea still raged and the proverbial wind Bocche crumble the limestone cliffs to witness the fact that this city will not be eternal!
Returned to the ground go up to town and we get lost in the endless streets and breathtaking scenic cliffs that make a unique Bonifacio. Descend along the "Scala dei Turchi" a very steep staircase that in 200 steps carved into the cliff leads to almost 150 meters to sea level (in fact each step is high, more or less half a meter).
U Campanilu by dinner. Discretamente eat and spend less than 70 euros (the best mule in the mariniers), quite honestly when you consider that Bonifacio is the most expensive place in Corsica.

From Bonifacio to Pinareddu (90 kms done)

We dedicate the beautiful morning to walk that starts from the hill of Saint Roch and leads up Pertusato Cape, the most southern point of Corsica (a few miles out clearly Sardinia). The trail follows the edge of cliffs and is the most evocative photograph from Bonifacio.
Back at the hotel settled the account and starting salatissimo. This time north along the east coast.
The steps required are the famous beaches that dot the coast between Bonifacio and Porto Vecchio. We stop at the Rondinara, crowded, if there happen in August, I recommend you reach the far north end of the beach (left, watching the sea) that they are relatively difficult to reach (10 minutes by foot) is almost deserted. L’effetto è quello di riuscire a godersi la spiaggia e il mare stupendo senza la cagnara delle famiglie con bambini rumorosissimi al seguito!
In the afternoon we arrived in Porto Vecchio. Unfortunately we do not have time to devote to the village and we are turning an idea of the place by car. Really nice, shame we can not stop! On the other gained a place at the beach Palombaggia also crowded, but very beautiful, surrounded by a forest of pine trees. Pinareddu arrive in the evening. U Paesolu overnight at hotel. Here we are forced to dine at the hotel because the rooms are leased to August only with half board. The hotel is not bad, but the restaurant is really sad! We spend, on half board, 200 euro.

From Pinareddu to Corte (120 kms done)

In the morning the focus to the long beach of Pinareddu. The sea is wonderful.
Heading in towards the north. The coast from Bastia to Pinareddu is a long strip of sand interspersed with ponds and countries. Less scenic west coast, but certainly more suited to families with children with you. We stop to Ghisonaggia for another bath, but then, as intended, as the coast is not particularly good, we decide to turn inwards. Book a hotel on the phone to the Court, the city that is located in the geographical center of Corsica, surrounded by mountains. The reach in little time. Take place (hotel De La Paix, clean and economical). We dedicate the whole afternoon to visit this city. The weather is quite cloudy and freschino. Court is the ideal starting point for lovers of trekking, as it is in the mountains. The city is also delicious. Oltrettutto seat being the only university of Corsica is full of young people and pubs, so before dinner we drink a beer in the plaza de Gauffry. U Museu dinner (flat courses at affordable prices. We spend 50 euros).

From Corte to Bastia and finally Livorno. (140 kms done)

The ferry that we show in Italy partly to 13:30, so we have time for a hike in the region of Castagniccia, north-east of the Court.
Besides being an area full of chestnut (which is a symbol of Corsica) is also an area of great agricultural suggestion. Let for Morsaglia (birthplace of Pasquale Paoli), Piedicroce and finally we stop to Orezza from which flows the source of the most famous (and expensive) water Corsa. Let's take a look at the tiny establishment, drink a sip of water directly from the source and then in ca. 2 hours we arrive at Bastia.
The ferry is on time and after 4 hours of shipping berths in Livorno.