Journey through the cities of Provence and Camargue, France (April '07)

Six days to the discovery of two beautiful regions of southern France: Provence and the Camargue. A tour by car with my boyfriend, from Padua, stopping to Genoa and then wandering between Provence and the Camargue, to the mouths of the Rhone.

 

Padua - Genoa

At 6.30 it sounds the alarm: Henry and I gather the last few things, load the luggage into the car, check for the third time that all the sockets are loose (yes, I have this habit before leaving for the holidays) and the way to our first Stage: Genoa. The ride is quiet and the choice of starting the day after the holiday on April 25 it worked well: there is no traffic on the street and filiamo straight to our destination.
We arrive in Genoa at about 11.30: In the distance I see the city in all its "dilapidated" beauty, un'attempata lady lying on the hills. Control the navigator, set the address of bed and breakfast where we spend the night, and continue along the path indicated.
The thing that strikes me most is the elevated highway to two lanes, which divides the city from the sea: a clutch of noisy modernity in a context that seems barely changed from the sixties. The combination of stride in fact, but soon I will understand that precisely in the coexistence of such different aspects lies the charm of the city.
After some hesitation Petruska (goliardic so we christened our navigator for the Eastern European accent) at the Bed & Breakfast Blue, the second floor of an old building near the Palazzo del Principe. We welcome Fulvia, a lady very friendly and bright-eyed, which makes us sit in our room. The bed & breakfast is housed in a large apartment, in a bright and clean. And the price is really attractive: € 50.00 per room, including a good breakfast.
After placing the luggage, Fulvia shows us the sights in the city, information on the map. Tells us that there will be a long walk but it does not scare us, even after 5 hours 'drive we look forward to stretch a little' legs.
In fact, our desire is largely true: we turn to walk around the old town, pass by the monumental church of San Lorenzo, we came out in Piazza De Ferraris, we explore the narrow streets where many times we lose, we visit a beautiful photo exhibition on 70 years, and we continue to wander until the evening and on. My feet hurt us but the call of the city is strong and we continue to walk.
After we overindulged of cake and porridge, we dive back in the characteristics of the center lanes, rents and shops by the most varied types: It is rare to find outlets in franchise brands, furnishings immoderately "glamorous", next to the small shops of artisans or dealers that smell of old wood and damp walls. As soon as we leave the beaten track, which winds along the main streets for tourists, and we enter through the narrow streets of the center, the city reveals its true face. An old print shop attracts our attention: we try to peep inside but the windows are blacked out, safe from curious eyes. The sun, however, frequently hidden by clouds that day, barely seeps between the old and tall buildings, casting a special light to the ground. And 'here in the narrow streets of La Maddalena, a few meters from the glistening streets "commercial", which is common to breed women and girls from clothing succinct, mostly foreign, placed close to the entrances of the houses where they offer their services to pay . Genoa surprise me once again showing itself brutally in all its multifaceted reality.
Decide at this point to take a break and if not where the romantic old pier? After rising to the large floating barge, having carefully examined all the boats docked for the most part foreign, fantasizing about which of the many would do the job. We pass next to the big bubble tropical designed by Renzo Piano, a kind of transparent spherical glass where it was recreated a tropical forest, plants and animals associated with it. This may also whet our interest but definitely 5 euro entry seem excessive for providing an attractive and decide to continue.
We reach the end of the barge where finally we rest our "weary limbs. The sun finally peeps through the clouds. From here the view of the city is exceptional: the buildings seem to cling to grasp the mountains, as if they were equipped with claws, and there are distributed in a disorderly way.
We reach some operators equipped with camera and microphone, a girl and a gray-haired man about 45 years, preparing the equipment, study hard for the site and choose the appropriate frame. We watch them with curiosity: in fact look like professionals. The girl began to interview 'man, who answered in favor of camera. The sound of the sea, I can not understand the meaning of his words but something I can steal, they speak of a film shot last winter, set in Genoa starring the likes of Margherita Buy and Antonio Albanian. I sense that this is a character of a certain thickness, but I dare not ask. Only later, when I returned from vacation, I will make the bitter discovery: This is Silvio Soldini, famous Italian director, who among others has directed "Bread and Tulips," my absolute favorite movie. Unfortunately, mea culpa, I recognize faces easily inflated vapid TV personalities, because there will also be served to all the sauces, but the face of the director I was not at all familiar. Too bad, I would have gladly seized this occasion for a friendly handshake. Let the sea and we go back in the characteristics of the center lanes.
After dining at the restaurant "the two towers, near the port tower Soprana, we move, exhausted, to our lodging for the night.

Genoa - Aix-en-Provence

After the trek yesterday, today we decided to opt for a program from the more relaxed pace and grants us a visit to the Aquarium. We walk and walk down the street we notice the presence of many Chinese shops that sell products at very low prices: a real invasion. Traders "native", in the western part of downtown, not even the shadow. We aim towards our goal, but in the pipeline we allow ourselves a little detour to the alleys of the center. I have to admit: I'm called these lanes like the Sirens of Ulysses.
I do not know, you will receive a special flavor, "gypsy", and the smell of the sea mingles with that of human reality that the multi-ethnic population.
After a brief immersion in the alleys of the center, we go, without distractions, to the Aquarium. A tourist destination par excellence, the Aquarium attracts many groups of tourists every day and vibrant schools. In fact, if you are in Genoa, is really worth a visit (admission € 15): The show is guaranteed and do not be surprised if you seem to become like children when excited at the sight of beautiful dolphins or be surprised agility Aquatic Dolphin or even recognize the features of the clown fish Nemo, the lively little fish homonym cartoon.
E 'admitted taking photographs but remember to turn off the flash. The pools are bright and the photos are very well anyway. And the fish thanks.
The path is quite long and to finish it takes at least three to four hours. Inside the structure there is also a large cinema where approximately every 20 minutes, then send an 3D film that casts the viewer into the deepest depths of the sea, in contact with creatures truly terrifying.
If you love tropical birds, with a small fee (€ 2) you can visit the hall of hummingbirds, where these animals, the rapid beat of wings, fly free over your head.

In the early afternoon we continue the journey towards Aix-en-Provence where we spend the night. We reach our bed & breakfast "Mas des Oliviers" in the evening. The accommodation is outside the city center but very pretty: the central part, used as a reception area and restaurant, is surrounded by many rooms like "bungalow" arranged in a horseshoe. The atmosphere is spartan but clean and comfortable. Prices are very affordable: € 40 per room.

Gordes - Roussillon - Avignon

The march resumed in the direction of Gordes, in the heart of Provence. The country is truly enchanting: a picturesque village of stone houses and buildings built on a dry rocky promontory from which the view of the valley and the mountains of Luberon really takes your breath away. All the streets leading to the lovely Place du Château, the central square where you will find the tourist office, at the entrance of the castle.
Not resist the temptation to buy two bunches of dried lavender in small fruit and vegetable shop in the center (do not recommend to buy them from souvenir shops to be paid at least twice).
The atmosphere here is calm and reassuring in Gordes and I would stay here and spend the entire vacation. Definitely stay in this location is ideal for those who want to detoxify the stressful and hectic pace of modern life.
To attract my attention are the crickets of all sizes and material that are invading all the souvenir shops. Terracotta, ceramic, plaster, wood ... smells like cicadas machines or as vases, as molds for cakes or as a simple ornament. There are also special, with "light barrier" that chirping when someone passes. Alongside the more traditional soap, the cicada is, I suppose, the most requested items by tourists.
Walking through the streets of Gordes we are called by a lady who invites us inside his shop to taste some wines from the spot. It tried several but ultimately the choice rests on a "vin de Figue" and a "vin de Coings. Given my rusty French by now, I can not then and there to understand what is meant by "Coings. The lady I was not very helpful, speaks only French and a bit 'of English. Henry just did not even think, he knows hardly say "oui" and "no". The flavor is familiar to me, I'm sure you've already tried but I can not reconnect to anything definite. The scene is grotesque, with the lady who tries to "mimic" the shape and texture of the fruit and I do not know what to do. Finally I can think of is quince! But the lady did not seem convinced, and that I will not be on the right track. "Ce n'est pas melocotón!" - He says - "Melocoton pêche est." In the end I understand that the lady had mistaken the Italian "quince" with the Spanish "melocotón" which actually is fishing. After this amusing sideshow of linguistic misunderstandings, I confirm my thesis: it is in fact a typical wine with quince, sweet, firm, liqueur.
We are moving towards the car but we decide to move to Roussillon before making a brief stop near the Cistercian abbey of Senanque. The road that leads to Gordes is narrow and winding and it often happens that you create code, mainly because of the coach, given the size, occupy the entire roadway.
Descends to reach the valley where vast fields of lavender stretch (unfortunately not yet in flower) in the middle of which stands the majestic abbey. We are not particularly interested in visiting it internally, so there we were informed on how to visit. However, if you want to admire the interior locations, you should book a time that, among other things, may occur only on certain days and times.
We continue the march in the direction of Roussillon, a dozen km from Gordes. We park the car just outside the center and right away the impact is striking: in front of us opens an immense valley on which stands a promontory of land of ocher. A huge red spot on a green palette. The country lies on a hill that was once Europe's largest quarry of red ocher, used primarily as a dye for fabrics. The gorgeous center is a grid of streets lined with houses with walls the color of sunset yellow mixes with gradations of red, orange, touching toes purple. In the center of the village there are several shops: in one of these, I can not remember the name, I purchased some pieces of soap craft delicious aroma and persistent. In Provence, the soap shops abound and you can find different types and scents (some are pretty cheap, specially packaged for tourists). Only here in Roussillon I found a type of soap really quality product in an ancient (by Mas du Roseau).
While strolling through the center met several tourists with their shoes spattered with powdered ocher. The extremes are even more scattered the skin of red earth, as if it were a mud beneficial. I'm really curious to know where he's so small!
We follow the directions and walking we reach the entrance of the path okra (€ 2.00). The spectacle is breathtaking: a few steps and you find yourself contemplating a huge dip down thousand amber. Descend along a wooden ladder: at every step I stop to admire from a new angle the strange scenario. Really seems to be landed on Mars. The trail leads to go into the Mediterranean greenery, made even more intense by the contrast with the background red.
Walking on a fine powder that seems to saffron, look at the bright green of the pines and cedars that breaks the monotony of yellow and red and surprise us some rocky pinnacles that stands out majestically upwards, shaped by water and wind.
Late afternoon continue the journey to Avignon, across endless expanses of vineyards and twisted bass lines (from which we produce the "Vins des Sables" - wines of the sands).
We come to Avignon, but to reach our hotel in the center is firm. We go through a car door of the walls through which you access the center, but due to a deviation and the many unique ways that do not allow a second thought, there losses between the lanes. Our hotel (Hotel Danieli, € 77.00 per night per room) is located along the main street, which is closed to traffic on Sunday. Wander hour in order to reach the shelter and when we finally made it there tell us that the hotel has no parking, that we must leave the old town and park the car in a pay parking near the station trains (€ 10.00 per day). Odyssey! At the end (finally) come to the hotel and grant us a deserved break.
That evening, after a healthy refreshing shower, we go to visit the center. We reach the town square, pretty busy, and we head towards the imposing Palace of the Popes, "one of the largest and most important medieval Gothic buildings in Europa.Ai foot of a huge square building opens, made even more impressive the traditional songs in an ancient Provencal street artist. Let us pause a bit 'in the magical setting to admire the strength and pride that the Palace releases. Then resumed the march and follow the directions to the Pont St Benezet, the symbol of the city of Avignon. Who can forget the famous "Pont d'Avignon" mentioned in the famous nursery rhyme? Dating back to 1100 BC, the bridge was rebuilt several times until the XVII partial collapse caused by a flood of the Rhone. Arches collapsed were not rebuilt and today the bridge is broken up by only 4 arches. Back in the center and decide to gratify a greedy crepe sitting in one of the many outdoor cafes overlooking the town square. It's worth it: crepes with chocolate chips and coconut ge

Avignon - Les Saintes Maries de la Mer

After a hearty "petit dejeuner" consumed outdoors, comfortably seated in a bar / restaurant downtown, back near the Palace of the Popes, even more impressive in light of the sun. Next to the papal palace are the gardens, an extensive area of which only part is open to the public. From a rooftop terrace of the garden you can enjoy a splendid view of the countryside around the city.
Towards lunch we take the bags, take the long Rue de la Republique and head towards the parking lot to retrieve our car.
I think with some emotion to our next stop: Les Saintes Maries de la Mer, perhaps the place that, more than all the others, I know. And not just because there is the sea (which I adore). To fascinate me is the story of Sarah, gypsy princess, who during the persecutions Christian pilgrims rescued off the left Palestine on a boat without sails, without oars, without food. Threw his cloak into the water, this is miraculously transformed into a boat and exiles were rescued. Among them were Maria Jacoba, cousin of the Virgin Mary, and Mary Salome, who gave their name then to the seaside town where they settled to conduct its work of evangelization. Perhaps because of his dark skin and his humble origins, Sara was never recognized by the Holy Catholic Church. However, became the protector of gypsies, who every year on 24 May, will meet in Les Saintes Maries de la Mer to celebrate and accompany the statue in procession to the sea.
The landscape, as we enter the heart of the Camargue, changes and becomes more rugged, "free-range". Open spaces around us exterminated, marshy plains where no one sees end.
On one side of the road I see a riding: an inscription in white lime wear affixed to the wooden sign warns tourists of the option of "promenades à cheval" (horse riding). I will realize quickly that the machinations of this kind are numerous. This part of the Camargue is apparently not being at all affected by the phenomenon of mass tourism, it can still breathe authenticity. We arrive at our accommodation (Les Rizieres, € 76 a night for a double room), a beautiful structure just outside the center, surrounded by greenery. Just place your luggage in our room I reach the pool for a little 'relaxation and a refreshing swim while Henry taking a nap.
Towards evening we go out to the center of the country: a group of small white buildings, arranged along an intricate maze of narrow streets, dominated by the high facade of the central Church.
The center is much more rampant and tourist restaurants and souvenir shops. The inspiration for "gypsy" is strong: from shop signs to the names of restaurants, flamenco music that you hear come from the local to the ubiquitous symbol of the bull.
For dinner we opt for a small restaurant adjacent to the church, "The FELIBRE. Capture and the music of Gulf & Miguel, a duo of guitarists / singers that surrounds us with hints of flamenco caliente, sometimes melancholic, sometimes sparkling and rhythmically. The day turns to dusk and the atmosphere is perfect, made even more relaxing and light enough good bottle of wine to accompany the meal. To attract my attention for a moment is an old gypsy woman, sitting at a table, wearing a large, colorful ankle-length skirt, a hat from "cowboy" and gaudy gold earrings. I do not know why but the Gypsy people has always fascinated me, for her to be wandering, nomadic, for his strong ties to tradition.
For the first time tasting the steak bull: a big step for someone who until a few years ago was strictly vegetarian! The evening slipped through the notes of flamenco to the sweet and the cigarette end that squeak to the waiter.
A short walk to digest and way to the hotel where we spend the night.

Les Saintes Maries de la Mer - Arles

The day gives us a nice sun already since the morning. Leave the hotel and back toward the center of Les Saintes Maries de la Mer We are lucky: it is market day. The central square is occupied by numerous stalls selling everything from wines, local produce, bags of straw, utensils, clothes, etc.. One of these stalls exposes dozens of watches colored beads made from coconut wood. The dials are all equal but embedded in pieces of wood shapes and colors as varied as are the straps, made of all different combinations of beads. Can not resist and, given the cost (€ 5.00), take two. Other purchases that I recommend to do in the Camargue are the traditional bags of straw: the market is full of all sizes and colors, and price compared to Italy, is considerably lower.
After an exhausting session of "shopping" (thank you Henry for your patience as I do when shopping is a real cyclone), we load our (especially mine) resume purchases in the car and visit the town.
Back in the center and visit the church. More than a church, it seems a veritable fortress, with walls interspersed with loopholes. The nave interior is very high and the light filtering from the outside is not enough to illuminate the environment and it looks like even more austere. The church would be pretty barren if not for the hundreds of votive crowded the sides of the aisle. It 'amazing to see how many people have appealed to the saint in the difficult moments of their lives. Even so didactic paintings depict the tragedy for which you sought out Sarah. In a glass case there are several human limbs silver or metal, probably donated by people suffering who asked the holy grace to heal their arm or leg sick.
E 'in the air vibrate as if something indecipherable, I almost feel the thoughts, prayers and petitions of generations of believers who have gone from here, each with its own troubles, each with a desire in my heart.
Inside the crypt, the right of the altar, houses the statue of Sara the Black. Adorned with a glittering tiara, will be ready May 24 of each year to exit the church and be honored in a procession by thousands of gypsies, who flock to the country's roads.
I imagine, Sara dark-skinned, raised from the arms of his faithful, revered like a queen, pamper day of his party, led to the sea and there dipped. I imagine the night festival, dancing swirling, whirling skirts of women, the mad violins. By resume my fantasies and we leave the Church. Only a few steps and I stop to look at jewelry on display in a shop by the name unmistakably linked to the tradition of the place: Les Bijoux de Sarah.
We pause to watch a pendant of copper which is etched a strange symbol gypsy. The symbol depicts a stylized man holding up a rainbow: a symbol of luck, which makes them strong and protects against bad luck. What other better gift for us to remember our trip?
After a pleasant walk along the beach, we set off again to Arles, but not without being granted a typical ride.
Instead of going with one of the many riding schools in Les Saintes Maries de la Mer, crowded with tourists, we prefer to stop at a riding a little 'out of the way along the road to Arles.
Given that neither Henry nor I've never got into the back of a horse, nevertheless decides to experience the thrill of being cowboys for a day. Park the car and talk with the owners, a couple western style reassures us of the gentleness of their ranch horses.
Plan your route by one hour (€ 15.00 per head), I think that before we do get familiar with animals, perhaps taking the reins and letting themselves be tested on a circular path, like the classics from our own stables. Instead saddle the "beasts", some quick indication on how to "guide" with the bridle the horse, and we invite them to come riding to the animals. From there the view is quite different and strong is the feeling of insecurity. I think Moustique, my horse has received at the beginning of my tension and I have recognized as jockeys, so much so that he began doing his own thing. While Henry and the lady was amusing himself leading the group, and I Moustique stragglers are worthless and my encouragements. The horse a few steps and stop to eat at a certain point, after another pause "rest", Moustique raises his head and see with an entire bush in my mouth. I guess I am getting the horse more lazy and greedy throughout the Camargue! Tension, As we continue in our walk, melts, I can begin to relax and admire the beautiful places that we are experiencing. We are right in the heart of the Camargue Regional Nature Park. Moustique does not want to get to know my fellow adventurers and the thing a little 'I'm sorry. Even if Henry does not know the language, I see that gets along very well and maintains a long conversation with the woman who makes him by Cicero. I listen but I can understand very little. Eventually I give up: I want to say that I shall enjoy this experience in "solitary". The walk winds through sections on the plain, small hills, narrow paths and reeds where to go should bow its head and become one with the horse. Despite some pain "to the nether regions", typical of beginners, the ride has thrilled us and made us fully immerse in the nature of the place.
We share more in the direction of Arles, our last stop. The trip unfortunately, is drawing to a close. Arles stayed at the Hotel Le Regence in Rue Marius Jouveau, a modest but clean and well managed pension in old town, along the banks of the Rhone.
For the night in a triple room (the only one available) with bath and tv pay € 55.00 (good value for money).
Compared to the rigors of bourgeois Avignon, Arles is more "genuine" and "eccentric". Roamed around the center, getting lost among the thousands of streets that intersect to emerge in front of Les Arènes, one of the oldest existing Roman arena. Modified over the centuries, today the arena is the setting for numerous events such as the traditional feast of Guardians of the Camargue, organized precisely in the days of our visit. We have dinner at the restaurant Media Luna (Rue Amédée Pichot), where, alongside traditional Provencal dishes, you can taste different kinds of tapas.

Arles

Our last morning of the trip we pass around the town dressed in their Sunday best.
We pass the ruins of the Ancient Theater, back near the ring and slipped in the alleys of the center until you reach Piazza della Repubblica, at that crowded. We missed the parade of "guards" on the horse but still we enjoy the party. Women are dressed in elegant traditional dresses, narrow waist and ankle-length, and her hair entwined with her hair tied with a ribbon and placed so as to look like a hat. Many of them held up a bouquet of lilies, which are considered auspicious. After rising to Place du Forum where he met the famous coffee portrait by Van Gogh in 1888. We continue our walk on the trail until you reach the Flemish artist L'Espace Van Gogh, once a nursing home where Van Gogh was hospitalized for suspected schizophrenia. During his stay in this place, Van Gogh painted "The Garden of Health of the House of Aries", which portrays exactly the garden and the courtyard of the building. By studying the perspective of the picture, a copy of which was exposed, Henry and I fun to find the exact spot where the artist must have placed his easel along the porch, first floor, just at that point that we struggle to recognize, 119 years before they could see the artist at work. A at that time thought that excites us.
In the early afternoon we recover the car to return to Italy. Stop in the evening at Piacenza un'italianissima for pizza and then straight back home with the desire, at least on my part, to repeat as soon as a very beautiful.