My travel in Occitaine, France

By Luca, Sabrina and Federico

 

At the dawn of a hot summer day waking up to find half the campers, parked in front of a house already full of everything you need to address this new journey, which will take place in the south of France. A journey that we would already have done two years ago, but a car accident, fortunately without serious consequences, almost completely destroyed our house and crews had to, must, give it up.
We go in Occitan, a region historically situated in the west of the Rhone and the chain between the Pyrenees and the Massif Central, usually somewhat 'neglected but rich in ideas of considerable interest, both natural and artistic. Unfortunately, we start with the anguish due to the terrible attack which has been consumed, at the hands of ignoble and despicable Islamic fundamentalists, on the night in Sharm el-Sheikh resort, which we are familiar.
At 8:46 we leave home, with Frederick, a lover of this kind of travel, more than ever pimpante and twenty minutes later turn, as usually happens, the highway at Faenza. Traffic to the north is intense, but row away everything smooth and 9:30 we are in Bologna. Not so however in a southerly direction, because they are virtually stationary.
The asphalt runs continuously beneath the wheels of our half, so at 10:30 we are at Parma and Piacenza a half hour later. Touch only the Po and go west along the A21, then south, following the first and A7 then the A26. Beyond the Apennines noticing the strange name that brings a tunnel, "the animal died" (which is a curious pair with the "Viaduct of the dead ox", located sull'A1, just before Florence) and we come in sight of the sea, on Ligurian coast, at 12:30. A10, bordeggiando the Riviera di Ponente, and shortly after, at 12:55 p.m., near Savona, we stop at a service for lunch.
The pause lasts less than an hour: take the road as soon as possible and after a short queue at the barrier of Ventimiglia to 15:30 entering France without any control (indeed, even the customs of the shadow), in the face of the much-vaunted suspension of the Schengen part of transalpine after the recent despicable, London bombings.
We follow the French salatissima Highway, across-known seaside resorts elite as Monaco, St. Tropez and Cannes, then at around 17:00, we stop for refueling and a note for the first time since we travel, the prices of fuel even more expensive than in Italy!
Around 18:00 we are right on the crossing for Marseille and an hour later we reach the goal of this first day, at the foot of the village of Les Baux de Provence, who will visit tomorrow morning.
He had to be in a parking area for campers who are not there anymore and we accommodated for this night, in a rather improvised along the way, but there is another crew to do the company and the place seems quiet enough, so, far from being worried, we dedicate ourselves after dinner, the deserved rest.

When we wake up there is no sun, but just have time to make breakfast and the sky clears rapidly from the clouds, so we can better engage with the expected visit of the medieval village of Les Baux de Provence, located on a rocky outcrop between the small roughness of the Alpilles mountains.
The town, home to a sophisticated court in the sixteenth century, recklessly supported a revolution and was punished with the destruction ordered by Louis XIII in 1632. During was discovered near a mineral which was given, in fact, the name of bauxite and today the village, expertly restored, you can visit.
Were reported to its former splendor of the streets, that we in the calm of the morning until panoramic balcony overlooking the Romanesque church of St. Vincent and more on up to the castle, but we decide not to visit in three would have cost us twenty euro ... everything has its fair price and that is definitely too much, because the castle is little more than a ruin.
Satisfied, however, the visit calmly regained the campers, focusing on the seventeenth-century homes and shops, which over time should always be more intense.
Back on board our half we move a few kilometers further north, outside the village of St. Remy de Provence, where they are gl'interessanti and evocative Roman ruins of Les Antiques.
Over the road linking Italy to Spain stood at this point the location of Glanum, foundation Hellenistic Romanised in the first century BC, which remained some vestiges: foundations of houses, temples and baths, but above all a wonderful triumphal arch dating from the early years of the empire, and the mausoleum that, over 19 meters high, was presumably dedicated to two nephews of Augustus. The two monuments, erected side by side, is scenographically placed on a small flat area between the trees and deserves, indeed, more of a look trivial.
We take some photos and let us briefly ensnared by the charm of the millenary stones, then regulate the navigation system upon the stage today and return to the grind kilometers. Pull the sums of the first part of the day we realize, however, account, because the failure to visit the castle of Les Baux, to be strong in advance on the road map, so we decide to stop off for a program in the city of Arles, which is exactly on our route.
Parking north of near Porte de la Cavalleria, beyond which, on foot, we reach the old town, dominated by the bulk of Les Arenes, the largest Roman amphitheater in France that was built probably in the second century under Hadrian, measuring 136 meters by 107 and, developed over two orders of 60 arches, could contain up to 26,000 spectators: a colossal, fortunately conservatasi in fairly good until now.
Under the warm sun of Provence around the arena and alongside what remains of the theater, also in Rome, we come to the great portal of the church, this time Romanesque St. Trophime, sculptural jewelry dating from the twelfth century ... Noted the severe internal and we are dedicated to visiting the scenic cloister, through which slender columns, you can capture the most captivating views about the religious complex.
Walking for a city sornione particularly apparent, given the public holiday, so goes the lunch and plenty, all things considered satisfied for the unexpected visit, returned to the camper, just in Arles, in a shady park on the banks of the Rhone, consume the We deserved lunch.
In the afternoon we leave for the largest part, such as mileage, the stop is beyond the city of Nimes, and for the adventure on the high ground along the so-called Corniches de Cevennes. The road runs for long stretches on the ridge of a mountain is not exciting visually apparent, which offers glimpses of a hilly landscape, very similar to those of our Appennini ... and dense fog this certainly does not help to make them more appealing.
Meanwhile, the arrow indicating the fuel level drops quickly approaching the red zone and the holiday seems we can not deal with them ... Instead, when we thought of stopping until Monday morning, we find a distributor close to open Florac and, full, we can return safely to our journey. Turn as the road follows the valley and the Gorge of the River Tarn, which grow to several tens of kilometers offering scenarios sometimes interesting, but nothing transcendent (especially if you have yet negl'occhi drugs canyon of the American West). .. more we find, in order, striking the site Castelbouc in the shadows, the broad viewpoint of Cinque de Chelly St. controsole and the remainder of the gorges flooded by the gloomy light of the valley in the late afternoon ... In short, a small failure!
Around 19:00 we arrive at the end of the narrow valley in the home of Rozier and go up from there, a road, since the plateau in the town of Montpellier le Vieux, where it should be a parking lot for campers ... I found, but there are other means to stop, however there is a local good, the Auberge de Maubert, where an excellent steak dinner with a minimal amount (25 euro in three).
Darkness falls in a silence almost unreal: we seem to head in the world, and the background is beautiful, and four, four comes another camperino us company and even for this night we will not be alone.

It is unfortunately not a good day in terms of weather, the sky threatened rain but it is completely covered and the gray dominates unchallenged.
We stand up slowly and we go to see near the so-called Chaos de Montpellier le Vieux, a relatively narrow area in which the erosion caused by weathering, has shaped over time dolomitic rocks in imaginative conformations.
Passed through the entrance and paid the ticket (combined with the Aven Armand, who will visit a cave in the afternoon) parked our means and, on foot, we will venture along the main route that crosses the protected area. Thus face the bumpy ascent up the rocky outcrop of Douminal, surrounded by stunning peaks, and from there we enjoy the bold landscape ... sin only for the sun, hopelessly in hiding! Following a stretch down there and then approximate the so-called Porte de Mycenes: a beautiful natural arch of rock that is full on the role of conformation symbol of the park.
We another short stretch of trail and then, with the help of a comfortable train, we returned to the parking lot, concluding a visit in terms of time better, and therefore more appealing scenario, it could certainly be done in a more extensive and depth ... sin!
Return route for the driver then almost immediately because of my curiosity, but above all of Frederick, for an "Adventure Route" between different facilities around rocky pinnacles dell'Auberge de Maubert. Armed with helmet and protective snap engage us so, for over an hour, nell'attraversamento of bridges and walkways from the most strange, that with Federico, fearless, you let go of pulleys attached to some long dizzying steps, while Sabrina, patiently we expect in the camper for lunch ... Finished the adventure, to be real tough men and derogatory of the danger, we present a table with imperious do ... "By eating a woman!" ... we would shout! ... Joking aside: we really enjoyed ... and good, give a good hand in the kitchen without discussion.
Lunch and became late and we are definitely still in Montpellier le Vieux, so promptly, as soon as possible, take the road. We follow the interesting Gorge de la Jonte, and after about thirty kilometers we stop to see the Aven Armand.
Go with a cable car along a tunnel and access to a huge underground room, 45 meters high, which could accommodate within it, in full, the cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris. It was discovered in 1897 by Louis Armand and this is beautiful, it is literally invaded by a forest of over 400 white stalagmites from the very particular form, due to which the fateful fall of water droplets: seem, in practice, many "pancakes" of limestone one above the other. Riemergasse outdoors so pleased for the visit ... and say that the caves we have seen so many in our travels!
The afternoon is more than made when we come back to devour the asphalt, but there is still a place we like to see before the end of this day.
After an infinite number of curves, around 18:00, we reach the parking lot near the site in question. We go to the ticket office and then immediately begin to fall along a path that in about one km takes us on the secrecy of the river below, to dell'Abime de Bramabiau.
Literally "The abyss that roar of the bull" (because of the noise produced by a shift of water during periods of full) is a deep rift in the rock produced by a river which flows for 800 meters underground and then re-emerge with a roaring waterfall.
We remain long in the company of the guide, at a temperature of 8-10 degrees, nell'intricato maze of tunnels Bramabiau: we will only walk a mile, but in fact water, with the complicity of the time, it's up really and development of caves speleologico total is less than 11 km! All this is at least very original and the end of the maze of the Earth can cope sufficiently satisfied the tough ascent to the parking lot, where she awaits us, patiently, our car loan.
Because even the "Nature Adventure" became decidedly late, so we are practically forced to close, in the parking dell'Abime de Bramabiau, the stage today: dinner and, in the silence of the Cevennes, put an end to a day all in all positive , but with the presence of the sun, especially in the morning, could have been decidedly better.

Because of the delay yesterday, we are forced to skip the visit to the medieval village of La Couvertirade in compensation today, it seems, be accompanied by a dazzling sun.
With these powers, and after having slept wonderfully well to over a thousand meters of altitude in the vicinity dell'Abime de Bramabiau, and flown a series of curves come down quite a bit towards the sea level, near the village of St. Bauzille de Putois.
On limestone hills that dominate the north-east to the town climbs a road which brings us to the famous Grotte des Demoiselles.
In facing the parking place is quite hot, but the feeling is short-lived and once penetrated, by means of a funicular railway in the heart of the mountain are to expect the 14-degree constant characterizing the cavern, known for centuries but only visited by the early twentieth century. Its size is substantial and particularly affects the great hall, also known as "The Cathedral of the abyss, which reaches 52 meters in height. On the contrary, however dell'Aven Armand, "alive" and dripping, the Grotte des Demoiselles is arid, virtually "dead", and although it is more suggestive and less attractive tetra.
After another hour spent plenty in the bowels of the earth Riemergasse, while the noon was long past and into the camper is a hellish hot. Lunch with diligence and start following the course of the river Herault.
Un'ansa after another so we arrive in the village of St. Guilhem le Desert, located in picturesque area between the cliffs and the river basin, being sacrificed in his position so that in the small car parks, we can not precisely find a place for our half cumbersome and useless after a few attempts, we must necessarily give up, reluctantly, to stop and visit.
Alternatively we stop, to the delight of the small, as many here do, for some 'time on the banks of the river ... and we also enjoy a cooling bath. In this way, the quiet afternoon slipped away and soon becomes time to leave the Herault and the Cevennes, who, in all honesty, in many ways we have not fully satisfied.
Regain the Mediterranean coastal plain and proceed south along the A9 highway to divert then right shortly after Narbonne, following the A61 until reaching a weapon tonight, at the foot of the famous medieval citadel of Carcassonne, a beautiful first sight.
Parked just outside the walls, in a permitted, and after dinner we are four steps to the old ways: the most beautiful thing indeed for a day not too successful. We take some pictures to stunning floodlit fortifications and strengthened in this way, the moral, there we go quietly to sleep: tomorrow from here begins the real journey into the heart of Occitan.

Strong wind has blown over a good part of the night and when we wake up the whole sky is cloudy ... Acc ..!!! Just in Carcassonne, presumably one of the most beautiful of the whole journey!
The fast moving clouds above our heads and occasionally some small s'intravede glimpse of blue sky, but it is only an illusion. We do all the work possible and before beginning the tour, but the situation does not change and, although disappointed, we must accept it.
The Cité of Carcassonne, also called the "Merville du Midi is one of the most important examples in Europe of the medieval fortified walls: its 45 towers were scattered along a double row along three kilometers of ramparts, never violated, constructed several times in the course of about a thousand years (between the third and the thirteenth century). Were providentially saved from demolition and restored to sixth by Violet le Duc nell'Ottocento and came to us to keep intact all their extraordinary charm, so much so that they have been repeatedly used as a movie set: here are, for example, been shot some scenes in the movie "Robin Hood" with Kevin Costner.
We enter, near the Porte monumentale Narbonnaise, in the space between the surrounding walls and walk among stunning views up to the Tour St.Nazaire. From there we enter the village and immediately encounter the fourteenth century Basilica of St. Nazaire, which include the splendid polychrome glazed. Then go out again through the fortifications Porte d'Aude scenic to look at the imaginative play of architectural walls Turri, who at this point is so beautiful to stand out even sull'infame gray sky today.
Vague for almost two hours between medieval ramparts and narrow streets (unfortunately invaded by an excessive tourist exploitation) and this time we look at the valuable Chateau Comtal, which lies on the western side of Citè, preceded by a huge semi-circular barbican and the customary ditch, but as long as the sun there at all worthy of his presence!
Shortly before noon we finish the visit and we are a little 'indispettiti to Toulouse ... doubly indispettiti when, arrived at its destination, the clouds quickly thins out, the sky returns to blue more than ever.
Parking and lunch near the 'Cité de l'Espace ", a large exhibition space, interactive, dedicated to the cosmos and the European Space aeronautical wanted to visit, but the high cost of the ticket (20 euros per head) and especially not knowing the perfect addition to other languages, understand the fear of anything or just make us desist from doing so. Federico (ideal and miser's friend Paperone de Paperone) to take the good fortune and agrees on the decision, in the early afternoon so we're ready to explore the historic center of Toulouse.
The ancient capital of the Languedoc and current capital of the department of the Midi Pyrenees is an agglomeration of large size, which, after a futile attempt to find a central parking in the streets for our bulky vehicle, try an alternative. We head towards the periphery and we stop as soon as possible, near a metro stop. To the delight of Frederick, who had never tried this kind of transportation, right on the subway so we reach the old town of Toulouse (an experience which, among other things trying to get in place of Citè de l ' Espace).
Emerge near the central and great Place du Capitol, dominated by classical and elegant facade of this, precisely, that Capitol, built between 700 and 900, now houses the headquarters of the de Ville (the City Hall).
Walk the narrow Rue du Taur, lined with ancient buildings, and arrive in front of the great basilica, all red brick, St. Sernin: famous monument of Romanesque and stage of the pilgrims on the Camino de Compostela, "which began in 1080 , on which stands the bold Nolare tower 63 meters high, six-storey octagonal tapered.
The use of brick features a po 'all over the old town and the imposing church of Les Jacobins, rare example of a religious building of two aisles (usually of an uneven number, one, three or five) raised in the XIV century.
Closing ring some sort of route is unfortunately closed the Hotel de Bernuy, an interesting building in the sixteenth century, and we are faced with the vibrant facade of the Capitol to have some experienced a brief but pleasant experience in the architectural beauties of this great and perhaps un po 'unevenly city.
With the help of the metro back to the camper and for the evening we move 70 kilometers to the north in far more tranquil town of Albi, is dominated by the silhouette of the Cathedral of St. Cecile.
Brigato greatly and I also flayed clumsily dropping a knee in an attempt to find the area for campers, but eventually parked in a beautiful place, almost at the foot of the great religious edifice, which, mindful of what happened in Carcassonne, I rushed to take pictures with the presence of the sun ... and peace of this town of the province, with view of the cathedral lit up a stand out wonderfully on the night sky, as if to want to protect, we conclude a beautiful day full of history.

Consume our usual breakfast with more than glass, the great bulk of the Cathedral of St. Cecile ... and from the latter, of course, leaving for a visit to the center of Albi: historic city, capital of the department, and between the twelfth and thirteenth century was the fulcrum of the movement of the heretical Albigenses.
The Cathedral of St. Cecile, Albi symbol, rises to the top of the hill overlooking the river Tarn, in the middle of a vast square, and was built between 1282 and 1390 all in red brick. He looks like a medieval fortress, crowned with battlements and round by semicircular towers, but especially the majestic bell-tower, 78 meters high, that dominates, reinforced by cylindrical mighty fortifications. The originality of the building, which has more the appearance of a military and religious buildings, is given not only by the severity of the external walls, but also by the absence of the main front: it is accessed through a real structure a separate location on a side and consists of a staircase, from a portal and a turreted Gothic canopy, full of pinnacles and pierced decoration.
Already impressed by the powerful external stand in awe in front of the sumptuous interior: the chapels, and sometimes entirely covered with rich fresco decoration, made in the early sixteenth century by Italian painter Giovanni Francesco Donnell. C'intratteniamo long inside the cathedral with the nose upwards ... pity only that, following some maintenance operations, come from the great body, a repetition, prolonged and monotonous sound, which leads to some disturbing 'the solemnity of the visit.
Released by St. Cecile do four steps to the center of Albi, and come to the Gothic Pont Vieux, which is a nice glance of the city, invariably characterized by the cathedral, as well as from the nearby Palace of the Berbère, a dramatic building brick that we will stop shortly after to see more closely, in which there is the Musée Toulouse Lautrec. The artist, born in Albi in 1684, is most famous for having designed numerous posters advertising the Moulin Rouge and her dancers can-can is universally known: thus acquire, in his honor, a beautiful lithograph and then we return to extremely happy camper just concluded his visit ... Frederick is just a little 'disappointed because they wanted to climb on the large bell-tower, but it was not possible, although it saw some people at the top.
Return the road, climbing on the surrounding hills, we reach the medieval village of Cordes sur Ciel. Parking area for motor homes in the country and there, given the hour, have lunch.
Without hurry, in the early afternoon, we are dedicated to exploring the village, founded in 1222, is perched on a hill at the entrance of Valle del Cérou and is enclosed within four defensive curtain, erected over two hundred years.
The path leading to the center, all uphill, in the heat today, it is extremely difficult, but in the end, beyond the ancient and beautiful doors, landed in the square root of the country, on the balcony below the natural valley surrounded by a secular peace in which we find two improvised suonatrici to further characterize the atmosphere ... and there, the comfort we enjoy a well-deserved and refreshing granita.
With more calm (and less breathlessness) go enjoy the town, studded with ancient buildings and workshops of many artists ... carina is Cordes sur Ciel and has certainly earned the hours of care that we put into it.
Completed, the facilities, all routine operations are taking up the road to Albi laughing alongside fields of sunflowers and brings us back to view the massive amount of St. Cecile. Of course not we stop and proceed towards the north-east, following signs for the city of Rodez, where we arrive late afternoon.
Parking near the center and we rushed to see the Cathedral of Notre Dame, as the sun, after a hot day is about to disappear behind a thick gray clouds, which mercilessly advancing from the west.
The religious building, raised on several occasions between the thirteenth and the sixteenth century is virtually the only monument of interest of the town and stands out, impressive, after the broad Avenue Victor Hugo: view the time is now closed but we can take a decent photo, even with the glare of the sun, before returning to the camper for dinner.
In the evening on several occasions threatened to rain, but in the end it does not ... throw everything and we hope tomorrow morning there is again the sun, in a beard because it systematically since we started: a beautiful day and a bad ... Today and tomorrow the sun ... clouds?

In the early morning in the end it rained, but when we wake up are much more numerous flashes of sky serene and confident we can make there to this day.
We must move quickly because, in the parking lot where stop, they are probably preparing for a feast of country and when we put our heads out of the camper, we are already almost completely surrounded by the barriers ... do a quick breakfast, and after that we leave behind Rodez.
We follow the road north-west and along the rugged valley Dourdou arrive in the village of Conques, but unfortunately the clouds are increasing dramatically, confirming to some extent the alternation of weather.
Parking and we are approaching on foot to explore the village, along the sidelines, which unfortunately is everywhere ... Nevertheless stands out wonderfully in the center of the silhouette of the former Benedictine S.te Foy, Romanesque building dating back to the eleventh century, which was originally at the heart of city life as pilgrims on the stage of "Road to Compostela".
Around the abbey complex is unravel the streets paved with round pebbles and alleys flanked by timbered facades, in which we want to lose a couple of hours, until we are rewarded by a few precious sunshine.
Once, shortly after 11:00 am, visiting dell'accattivante village of Conques, in 1988 forming part of the World Heritage, and we start a nice stretch of road beyond the town of Decazville (I do not want to venture in translation Sconce so literal as unlikely) and near the town of Figeac we stop for lunch. Parked on the banks of the river with the sky above us and completely covered with the only hint of color offered by Frederick, who delights with his new whistle as a draw, bought in a store Conques.
Refresh leave for the second part of the day, but also begins to rain and the morale of the troops "quickly descends to levels inadequate for a holiday atmosphere.
In less than an hour we arrive in the valley of the River Lot, our point of arrival with respect to the stage today, and the weather does not change course. Instead of going to see the village of St. The Five Popie then climb along a road side of the valley, the caves of Pech Merle, visited only by appointment ... We have reserved the right to do so, right from home via the website, for tomorrow morning, but given the weather we do not anticipate regret ... How can we not told, however: the visits of the day are already full and we should go to St. Popie The Five, and fortunately it does not rain more but in the clouds, now more rade, also head the sun.
St. Cirque dominates the valley of the Lot from the top of a slope and is ranked among the most beautiful medieval villages of France. The noble family of La Popie, once lords of the place, gave his name to the castle, situated on the highest point of the slope, and then the whole village.
The remains of the castle come to a path that starts from the main square and from there enjoy the view over the country and the old church, perched on the side of a cliff. Then descend into the heart of the village which, enriched by buildings dating back to medieval exclusively, has a beautiful architectural homogeneity, and we enjoy, among lights and shadows, this little gem occitan.
Could go even better in terms of weather, but in the end it was almost pleasant to walk at night along the narrow paved streets of St. La Cirque Popie quietly and later we move, for the night, in the near Camping de la Plage, on the banks of the river Lot, in order to wash well after almost a week of travel.
Little spent some 'time in the tiny playground in the area including and then we will withdraw inside the camper, while falling a few drops of rain ... but do not despair: the well-tested rules tomorrow would be the sun.

First part

Sounds the alarm and cautiously open the porthole above our heads: I am facing and I am in a padded ... not a sample of dioptres but everything around me is too blurry and there is a reason, because we are immersed in a thick bank of fog. We are not discouraged and do breakfast, while the mist slowly goes sparsely and now, looking good on the vertical s'intravede some shade of blue.
We would still take a picture with the right light in St. Cirque La Popie before leaving the place, but the town at 9:00, is still shrouded in morning mist and we must desist from doing so, just twenty minutes later we in front of the Caves of Pech Merle, for whom the visit is not necessary the presence of the sun.
The anfratto of the "Hill of the Blackbird," was discovered accidentally in 1922 by two teenagers, and its main feature are not the conformations limestone (albeit in small part), but the prehistoric paintings. This area of France is particularly rich in evidence dating back to the Paleolithic and nearby are other caves with special features similar to this, however, Pech Merle is one of the few open to the public (albeit limited to 700 visitors a day) and is essential to book a visit , which we did almost a month ago ... and we were extremely providence, since we are the first in the list.
Collect our tickets and shortly after, accompanied by a guide, we descend into the cave. We take this vision of the first paintings, executed in shades of red and black on white limestone walls dell'antro. Some even date back to 20-25000 years ago and are beautiful in their stark simplicity ... We are not in the sight of the "Sistine Chapel" but gives almost shivering observe those rough but significant case, in front of us, after so long.
We are almost an hour in his visit assorti noting among other imprints of hands on the walls and standing on the floor, and a strange root that crosses the entire cave to stick in the ground at its base, then, for considerably satisfied ' experience, re-emerging in the open air ... The mist in the meantime it is completely dissolved and is now traveling nell'azzurro white clouds of heaven.
Let a fast glance all'attiguo museum and then go back to the Lot Valley. So we stop to see the curious Defila des Anglais, a series of narrow tunnels fortifications topped by strange, and Iron Bridge dirimpettaio that suggestively across the river leads to the village of Bouzies.
Un'ansa after another so we arrive in the town of Cahors, embraced by the Lot, that the wet on three sides, and characterized by beautiful Pont Valentré, bridge-fortress is considered one of the most beautiful monuments in France.
The camper parked nearby and we enjoy standing the impressive medieval construction, the best preserved of its kind in Europe, built, apparently with the help of the devil, between 1308 and 1378. E 'consists of six Gothic arches which stand out in the middle and end, three slender towers battlemented passers, which rise 40 feet above the surface of creating a framework of great suggestion ... The bridge, a symbol of Cahors, was long engaged, fully responsible, in the World Heritage.

Second part

It 'almost noon when we leave this amazing city on the Lot and take the A20 highway direct to the north: I walk a good stretch and then we stop for lunch in one stop, to share immediately as soon as possible, for the second part of the day.
We leave just before Brive la Gaillard easterly and following some minor roads we reported to the village of Collonge Rouge, while the sky, which had incupito, as if by magic opens giving you a bright afternoon, more than ever. Parked just outside the country, ranked among the most beautiful villages in France, and we dedicate ourselves walking quietly to his discovery.
Entirely built using red sandstone, was built in Collonge 785 around a priory and from an architectural point of view its most surprising element is the large amount of noble present which, perfectly restored, with a myriad of scenic towers and turrets. The post, in the Middle Ages, in effect was a sort of holiday resort and in a sense, after a period of decline, was once again touring to save it from destruction ... E 'a country of strong contrasts in color starting with the bright red stone with white lime, which unites them and the green landscape of bucolic surroundings, and then the dark blue, almost black, with the roofs of blue sky. .. fortunately!
Walk along the Rue de la Barriere, flanked by fanciful gl'immancabili buildings that house shops, including one who stands out for its originality: the "Casa della Befana", with everything, really everything that relates to the beloved old and his scopa inseparable. Walk down the narrow Rue Noir, at the bottom of which lies the tiny Chapelle des Penitents, and arrive in front all'Eglise de Saint Pierre, a beautiful Romanesque church dating to the eleventh century, while leaving the front door, among the celebrations, two fresh newlyweds ... There's that saying: Collonge (red) has really delighted us in every point of view, and back to happy camper ... while the sun disappears behind the clouds again.
Now is the afternoon but our day is not over, we go south, bypassing the course of the Dordogne (which will meet again later in the trip) and one curve after another come to the so-called de Padirac Gouffre. E 'abyss of an impressive 35 meters in diameter, that opens suddenly on the ground limestone Causse de Gramat in extremis and unable to make the visit.
With the help of two lifts descend to 103 meters on the bottom dell'Abisso, but Richard and I prefer to do it on foot, through a dizzying scale metal. At the end of the descent meet Sabrina and a short walk along the underground path that ends near a pier bizarre ... We are in a cave, for over a hundred meters from the surface, but expect to find a peaceful river, the Rivière Plane, which we follow with the aid of a boat, carried on by a force of arms, for some 560 meters (crisp ago The air temperature is 13 degrees, the water is 10).
The waterway closed basin in a room whose ceiling hangs the huge "Grand Pendeloque", a stalactite 60 meters high. Landing here because the final part dell'anfratto you visit on foot and what's surprising is its size: the highest part of the vault is located on our head for more than 90 meters (about it remain only nine meters of Earth's crust) and attached to a wall falls, candida, the "Grand Pillars" conformation huge limestone which rises 75 meters to well!
Astounding return to take the Rivière Plane and then the chasm, until its top: this wonder of the underground, discovered in 1889 by the famous scholar and speleologist EA Martel was able to amaze and soon after, accompanied by the first lights of evening, we move for the night in the nearby town of Rocamadour.
At the foot town is a beautiful park in grass, where we placed in the company of other campers. From there, the enlightened view of the village, we visit tomorrow morning, is sublime and so we conclude the first week of travel in Occitania and, simultaneously, perhaps, the best day to be interesting when this adventure began.

It 'nice to wake fresh when in Italy seems to be a hellish hot, but mostly it's nice to open the window and be below the spectacular cliffs of Rocamadour.
The village, perched on vertiginous wall of the Canyon dell'Alzou, with the castle that is superimposed on churches, churches that overlap with homes in an incredible universe vertical, stretching from the river directly to heaven, was a major pilgrimage destinations of Christianity and already in the ninth century, seemed imbued with great religious fervor, which lasted, continually growing, for nearly 500 years.
We then walk from the esplanade where we are parked along the ascent up the community ... Rocamadour is actually located on three levels: lower across the village, consisting of two rows of old houses along the only street (Rue de la Couronnerie), which is open four fortified gates. At the central level, there is the so-called "Religious Town", formed from the palace of the bishops and several chapels, sacred, to which we come along the Grand Escalier, strewn staircase of 216 stairs that once the pilgrims, burdened by heavy chains, even along knee.
We enjoy excellent views from the medieval flavor and then, going along a shaded path used to Calvary, we reach the top of the cliff, where, in a panoramic to say the least, is the castle, built in the nineteenth century and therefore relatively recently. Conquered so meters meters after the overhanging rock of Rocamadour we return, with more calm and less breathlessness, the camper, completing a nice exploration of the town in little more than a couple of hours.
At 11:00 we were again ready to leave and with the bow toward the next goal we road down from a rugged plateau, we leave behind the small town of Souillac and we stop for lunch on the banks of the Dordogne.
In the afternoon, left the village of Domme, we visit the village of La Roque Gageac, one of the most beautiful valley, nestled at the foot of the cliff near the river to peak. The fifteenth century ocher-colored houses are competing with the vegetation of the small space between the bed and the dramatic rock wall of the Pech Vigueyral, leaving barely a passage for the road trafficatissima lining in the course of the Dordogne, and the procession continues to cars remains, inevitably, a lot of charm to the place, so after a short stroll along the cobbled streets Secondary resume our journey to discover this pleasant valley.
We leave on the left, across the river, the silhouette of the castle of Castelnaud, which was English in the war of a hundred years, to reach to Beynac, in front of us, which was French in the same war. Scenographically lies perched on a cliff and is reached by a winding road at the end of which there is a parking lot.
Let the foot camper and we are approaching the castle through the narrow lanes and characteristic village of Beynac, then cross the door of the castle, very charming and in excellent condition, recently was chosen as set by director Luc Besson, girarvi some scenes for the movie "Jeanne D'arc".
To the delight of Frederick, who loves this kind of experience, we visit each smaller anfratto building, going along the stairs on the right lace, from where it has an impressive sight on the Dordogne Valley and, more distance, on the strength of antagonistic Calstelnaud.
We gone from the halls of the castle and when we conclude the visit is now evening: we have four steps to the medieval village and then back to the camper, where we expect to un'antipatica surprise ... Stuck to the windshield, there is a fine! ... Acc! ... E 'unbelievable because we had also paid the 2 euros for parking, but given the size of the half had not placed in the appropriate spaces. Is not to dramatize the case: there are only 11 euro and then pay them do not believe ... Folded our unexpected souvenir and we move in for the night in the nearby town of Sarlat le Caneda, who will visit tomorrow: we are calm and the little mishap has not changed the outcome of a day rather than positive.

Not much light filters through the darkening glimpses of ... raise them with some 'apprehension and fears become reality: it seems another gray morning, and it is a pity because the program was the visit to the historic center of Sarlat le Caneda, a picturesque medieval town apparent .
At least it does not rain, and clear, we move on foot to start with the exploration, so, shortly after, we are straight on the Rue de la Republique, the main artery of Sarlat, on this street are many shops.
Taking advantage of the situation we enter into a resale of tobacco and ask about the fine ... smiles and the tobacconist us to give up: 'It is only for the French! "he says, and decide to follow his advice carefree ... souvenir souvenir was and remains!
C'inoltriamo then in the east of the village, where lies the medieval quarter and in short we are immersed in the streets of Sarlat, lined with beautiful stone buildings in yellow, expertly restored, that stand out admirably despite the gray in inappropriate which they are immersed. What is most surprising in this village is the incredible uniformity of architecture and at each step we encounter a view worthy of a picture ... let alone how it was with the presence of the sun!
Sarlat leave with a little 'bitter in the mouth, while the clouds are being slowly thinnings, and we are approaching the village of Les Eysez de Tayac, situated a few tens of kilometers away.
Along the way, shortly before arriving in what is considered the European capital of prehistory, we stop in the parking site of Roc de Cazelle and there, given the hour, have lunch.
In the afternoon we go to see the establishment of Cazelle troglodyte, inhabited almost continuously from prehistoric times until 1966, when the family, the last owner of the place, he has bequeathed to the French cultural heritage. Since then it has organized a kind of museum that illustrates with the help of numerous reconstructions, life in the rock through the various historical periods.
Between gorges and tunnels dug into the rock is especially fun to Frederick, who delights to hurl (with discreet mastery) a perfect copy of the spear used by prehistoric men, and at the end of the trail was almost sorry that the visit is over. To his luck, however it remains to be seen like another place, indeed, more important than that.
But omitted the interesting National Prehistoric Museum Les Eyzes turn the narrow valley and arrive at Vézère Roque St. Christophe, troglodyte settlement, falling even in the World Heritage. The site, which surprised by its breadth, extends for about one kilometer clinging to a cliff 80 meters high and was continuously occupied until the Renaissance, when the city now had developed was destroyed by order of the then king of France.
While finally the sun comes out we will venture sull'impressionante clifftop: a sort of terracing, partly natural and partly artificial, which because of its size and has earned the nickname "Boulevard de l'Humanité". In this place, among others, have been meticulously reconstructed some rudimentary machines used in medieval times for lifting and guidance, assisted by an attendant, it shows the operation, triggering the curiosity of the small, fascinated by the fundamental principles of mechanics.
Walking for Roque St. Christophe pleasantly spent the second part of the afternoon, so we put an end to another interesting day of visits, but still remain to be 150 kilometers close to the stage and is being done late.
Let your heart and dell'Occitania sfrecciano along the A89 motorway towards the region dell'Auvergne. We come in this way, with the first light of dusk, in the spa and winter of Le Mont Dore: we are at over a thousand meters of altitude, has just rained, and even quite cold, then dinner and then we defended for the evening in pleasant warmth of the camper.

We wake up to the sky darker than ever and the thermometer marking 12 degrees! Unbelieving seek an explanation that neither the timing nor the location (despite the thousand meters above sea level) we can make and even though we oppose the revolution of the day, which included a visit to the Puy de Sancy first and then Puy de Dome. .. all the peaks of volcanic origin that characterize this region of France today are, in fact, surrounded by clouds and we have to abandon the game strongly.
Let's go to the east, thus avoiding even the city of Clermont Ferrand and beyond (at 1401) the Col de la Croix Morand, the highest point of the journey, and arrive after an infinite number of curves in the town of Issoire, note that other for its Romanesque church of St. Austremoine dating from the twelfth century.
Thank God the good fortune assist us and the sky, as if by magic, it appears, so we can enjoy the religious building with the wonderful apse, enriched with polychrome geometric decoration, which stands on an unexpected glimpse of blue, then just the time to admire gl'interni, entirely decorated in bright colors, and a little later when we resume the road everything is gray again.
Briefly follow the A75 motorway, then the SS N102 south-east, we stop for lunch and when we start, in short, we reach the town of Le Puy en Velay, and starts to rain.
Parking near the center with the first rain slows and then calms down, so we decide to undertake the visit of what is the District capital of Velay, dell'Auvergne region in the heart where the fire and the magma of ancient volcanoes played with the land and water, embroider a landscape really unusual. Some rocky peaks emerging suddenly around the home and the most surprising, the Rocher d'Aiguilhe, 85 meters high, is the pedestal of the gigantic church of St. Michel, which dominates the scene in the company of the colossal statue of the Virgin , overlooking the Rocher Corneille, and the cathedral of Notre Dame, built in the eleventh century and the dominant place of pilgrimage since the early days of Christianity.
We are moving toward building religious symbol of the city accompanied by the sun, as by a miracle, he came out into the open again delight of his presence and climb the steep stairs leading all'inusuale entrance of Notre Dame, so unusual that the inhabitants of Le Puy loved so defined: "The cathedral is dall'ombellico enters and leaves the ears!" ... In the sense that the entry is the official extension of the porch steps, ending below the church and emerge in front of the choir, in the center of the nave (hence the reference all'ombellico), while you can leave the side transects (the ears). This strange architectural solution was adopted to expand the building in the absence of space and is truly unique.
Delighted by the original views of Le Puy en Velay we calmly return to homes, while the sky back quickly to cover themselves and shortly even threatening rain.
We are a mid-afternoon and we decide to move further south, in search of better weather and a little 'more heat, which would not go amiss!
Along the way we do, despite the pouring rain, a detour to see the spectacular cliff of Arlempdes and when we are before him (unbelievable but true) a single ray of sunlight through the thick blanket of clouds and as if by magic lights up the scene. Thank tacitly and return to the grind kilometers. In this way, we descend from the Massif Central, accompanied by the column of mercury which, fortunately, salt. So we stop for the night at Vallon Pont d'Arc, in sight of the famous Ardèche gorges and Provence.
That just ended was certainly the worst day so far, even if the sun somehow there has always been true, but every journey there must always be a "worst day" ... hope is this and tomorrow solleone return to the master.

Because the bad weather we have an advantage of a normal day on the itinerary planned, but this morning, on our head, there is a magnificent blue sky: we have come to the south and it shows!
Carried out some routine operations are leaving the stage for today and, for a start, c'inoltriamo in the Ardèche gorges: the namesake river before throwing in the Rhone dig one of the most impressive and beautiful canyon in Europe, visited by a scenic road that unravels clamped fast to its board for more than 40 kilometers.
Sabrina and I were already in place, but no Federico, and there again ... sorry Now we expect the most spectacular, with huge natural arch of Pont d'Arc (60 meters wide and high 45), through which passes the river and the hundreds of paddlers who each day take the descent of the gorges.
After Pont d'Arc, the road rises and follow one after another, the dizzying viewpoints among which stand out for the spectacular, those of Serre de Tourre first and then de La Madeleine.
Between a stop and the other time flies and it is almost noon when suddenly the landscape loses its harshness and leave the canyon on the plains of the Rhone, in sight of Provence. From here, walk a few dozen kilometers to the south and there we stopped in the parking lot of the site of Pont du Gard, where given the lunch hours.
Even in this place we were already, but 18 years ago: then there were no organized parking and with the ribbon of asphalt s'arrivava right on the banks of the Gardon. I remember that at that time undisturbed climbed to the top, the impressive Roman aqueduct, built to carry water to Nimes in 19 BC by order of Agrippa, son of Augustus ... Today of course is no longer possible and must settle for seeing the extraordinary work of engineering, which consists of three superimposed orders of arches to a height of 49 meters and a length of nearly 300 by the steep banks of the river and there is can only pass along the next adjacent pedestrian bridge, built in 1743. Certainly the site has lost some 'charm, but it was inevitable having regard to the amount of tourists every day you log on and, despite the prohibitions and regulations, remains one of the most stunning and drug evidence at the time.
By Frederick from archeology galvanized street and back, following a short dress the A9 north-east, we reach in the home of Orange, historic town known since antiquity.
Parked our camper at a short distance from the center and we are walking towards it ... Suddenly bursts in our view a huge wall, like a stroke of the solemn scene: an insurmountable barrier that stands above all the houses and stands, an imposing, against the hill of Saint Eutropia, dominating the urban conurbation. And 'the outside (long 103 meters high and 36) of the theater, built in the first century AD under Augustus, the only one in Europe that retains the intact wall of the scene.
We spend almost an hour inside that marvelous construction, which in its period of maximum splendor could accommodate up to nine thousand spectators, and for as long as we are joined by a full audio description (in Italian!) Included in the ticket price , then go out and we look at the first town on the outskirts of the magnificent arch of triumph, also Roman, built in 49 BC After a victory of Caesar and one of the largest known, with its 18 meters high and 8 deep.
Completed, with honors, including the visit of Orange is now afternoon and we move in for the night in the nearby town of Fontaine de Vaucluse, where, along the banks of the peaceful course of the Sorgue, is a beautiful area equipped for camping ... In absolute peace so we return to close one day be the major success.

Miracle! Second day running with the presence of the sun! ... We wake up surrounded by the sublime tranquility of Fontaine de Vaucluse, near to the transparent waters of the Sorgue, the same "Clear, fresh and sweet water ..." inspired by Francesco Petrarch, who lived here at intervals, between 1337 and 1353 boasting the best rhymes for the beloved Laura.
After breakfast take a stroll along the river early on, the source karst springs where the famous water ... Indeed, donde flow, because now the source is completely dry and the stream appears, suddenly, only a few hundred meters downstream.
Mindful of the place as it was about twenty years ago we sadly returned to the camper, with Federico indispettito more from failure of an old mill on the banks of the Sorgue, which was to illustrate the ancient process of manufacture of paper.
Despite the small failure in Fontaine de Vaucluse is gone most of the morning and return to the paths of Provence when it is noon, but the journey is short and we will stop shortly after the country of Gourdes, in whose vicinity we would like to visit the stano and archaic Village des Bories. The road that arrives, however, nearly two kilometers long, sets the maximum width to 2.30 meters (just, just ours!) ... better not to risk: lunch in a nearby parking lot and then immediately resume their journey.
In the early afternoon so we reach the village of Roussillon, nestled in the hills of the Vaucluse is known mainly to its ocher cliffs.
A fatigue can park, then walk, we go to walk a path that amazing s'inoltra in a fantastic, made of colorful pinnacles in contrast with the intense green surroundings is a charming landscape, a sliver of the American west chissà as happened in the heart of old Europe. At the time of the Roman hill called Mons Rutilus ocher and that was was transported with horses up in Marseille, to finally reach the shores of the Tiber: used to color red the most important of the toghe and l ' inside of the houses. Now serves "only" to attract tourists and it is always a source of wealth for the locals.
We enjoy visiting the interior regions of France and then turn the bow of our car in the direction of the Mediterranean Sea ... Here we come, in a few hours, in view of the coast near the town of Hyeres ... and we immediately put in queue: we arrived, ahinoi, in the classic holiday chaos that characterizes the most known seaside resorts.
We employ three quarters of an hour to travel the ten kilometers separate us from La Tour Fondus, where c'imbarcheremo tomorrow morning for the island of Porquerolles, and fortunately they expect to find a parking lot (albeit expensive) in which to spend the night and leave the camper, the next day, all day.
For a dinner like pizza and nearby is a small pizzeria apparently ... but it is "criminal association": a simple margherita costs ten euros, and from there to grow, in addition to indoor and drink! ... Everything has its price and waive the right! ... We will withdraw as a dinner in the camper passing a quiet evening, but now the holiday is coming to an end.

Then move on to the sea the last day of this journey in the land of France ... Meanwhile, the weather conditions are optimal, and this helps us to make the outcome more positive than ever.
Eat a quick breakfast, and after that we rushed to take the boat that set sail at 9:00 o'clock from the quayside of La Tour Fondus to the island of Porquerolles, the largest of the tiny archipelago of Hyeres: a sliver of rock and sand (ten kilometers for two) located just off the Giens peninsula, on which we find ourselves.
Less than twenty minutes after the start landing in the port on which lie the 250 inhabitants of Porquerolles and there we rent three bikes, the only means of transport which allows to move the dirt roads of the island.
After some initial difficulties with the confidence we take half and pedaling along the coast to the east, between hills and vast pine forests, we reach after about half an hour for the Plage de Notre Dame, in practice the only beach of this small Mediterranean strip of land.
Surrounded by the squeak of a thousand cicadas chained the bike and on foot, walk the last meters to the beach, completely bordered by thick vegetation and lapped by a transparent sea, is beautiful and inviting ... Our system and we run things in a water bath having a desired, disturbed only by the presence of some jellyfish to intimidate some 'Sabrina and Federico ... I, however, I have an account with those damned animals, big game and I will fill a bucket, cleaning as much as possible to the sea in front of us.
Lunch with our sandwiches, the shade of pine trees and then spend pleasantly the whole afternoon at Notre Dame is a delicious inlet toward the coast, which is clearly seen in the distance, and was virtually surrounded by the earth when drops in water, so as to have the impression of being in a big pond rather than the sea and only the smell of salt helps to appease any doubts.
Quickly become the 17:30 and we leave the beach, so at 18:00, as agreed, we are happy to return the bike and half hour later Sailing leaving behind the smooth silhouette of the island of Porquerolles.
It is consumed in this manner, happily also the last note of the vacancy and in short we are in front of the camper: dinner, take a shower and we are ready for some 'of the return journey so as to lighten your day to come.
To 20:25 we leave the parking lot of La Tour Fondus and twenty minutes later take the highway A57 at Hyeres. We leave on the right the outline of the Massif des Maures and follow the A8 towards the east, around 22:00 transiting close to Cannes, while Sabrina and Richard if they go to sleep. Subsequently past the exit for Nice and Monaco, notes that the border town herald our return, at 22:45, in Italian territory. We still a few miles and then exit the highway in San Remo: deal with the long descent that leads the community and we stop for the night, when the 23:20, in a parking facilities on the shores of the Sea Ligure.

We expect a day of heavy traffic due to the departure en masse for the holidays ... we, however, we have finished, but not desperate, and already trying to think of the future.
At 8:40 we put ourselves on the road and, after returning on the motorway, at 9:45 we are at Savona. The ribbon of asphalt, for the moment, smooth and flowing away quarter of an hour later take the A26 motorway leaving the sea behind, while the radio began to talk of long queues of vehicles sparse un po 'everywhere throughout Italy ... We address the first barrier to Piacenza, where are the 11:45, then enter in A1, where there is a traffic sostenutissimo, and we stop for lunch in a parking lot just before Parma, at 12:30.
At 13:15, after a brief stop, start, and appended to Serpentona of trucks, more and more compact, carry very slow now, so we employ an hour and a half to travel the few tens of kilometers separate us from the Modena Sud, then in the distance s'intravede increasing the gauge of the shrine of St. Luke, overlooking Bologna.
Beyond an acceptable time in the capital and 16:10 Felsinea us to the motorway exit of our city. Performing some routine operation at 16:40 and conclude happily, in front of the gate of the house, even this journey.
E 'was an experience by the many positive aspects and, in part, only the Cevennes we were fully satisfied ... Could go with the best weather in Auvergne, but it was the middle part the route, the heart dell'Occitania, from Carcassonne to Sarlat le Caneda, passing through Toulouse, Albi, Cahors, Rocamadour and the wonderful villages minors, who has impressed us most ... And what about the amazing caves and amazing traces of Paleolithic, the Roman remains, the red cliffs of Roussilion and last but not least, the delightful island of Porquerolles ... The good old Europe is not never disappoints and this broad area to the south of France, sometimes a little 'unevenly, is no exception.