A trip to discover the land of Captain Corelli..

Before departure we decided to chance and groped to find accommodation on the spot: just landed from a trip of 30 hours we found a room in a nice apartment in Agia Efimia, Logaras Hotel, very reasonable prices: we spent 45 euros in two for a studio apartment with terrace and kitchenette. We moved across the island to-day stages of course, but we visited almost entirely: people truly enchanted and full of peace and tranquility. We especially liked the north of the island, with the town of Fiskardo and the beach Emblisi, windy and cooler areas than the south, or Xi with Skala. We made a jump to nearby Zakynthos, to discover its blue caves at Cape Skinari. The spirit of the island is so tied to the calm and relaxation that within a few hours we let themselves be affected and we left completely enveloped by the beauty of nature and tables. A journey full of surprises really.

 

the long journey

We boarded the 08/07/2010 at 13:30 we arrived at Ancona and Patras in the next day at 11:30. We did about two hours by car to reach the port of Kilini where we waited for the ferry to Poros. This port is tiny and not properly reported, we found it by accident, even if it is the point of connection to Kefalonia. We face a heavy sea, and in about an hour and a half we landed in Poros. Not having booked any room before leaving, we head towards Sami looking for an accommodation: our attention is focused on Sami and Aghia Efimia as they are centrally located with respect to all other towns of the island. Sami let us down, maybe about 30 hours after the fatigue of travel, but we do not find anything affordable and people treat us very well enough. Disconsolate we move to Aghia Efimia which is five minutes by car and after some 'research found an apartment on a street behind the harbor, the hotel Logaras: the owner was really disponibilissimo and the price very reasonable (45 euros for a small apartment and 55 euros for a big apartment) quick shower and just outside the village to discover the port: it is fully developed along the road that runs along the harbor where there are numerous local, but has a special charm: everything flows calmly and without the anxiety of the tourist towns, you can taste the real greek style.

the discovery of the north

The 9 days we start early because we expected the visit to the north of the island: the first half is Fiskardo. Along the way we stop at the lookout above the beach Myrtos: a breathtaking view of the beach just as spectacular, but unfortunately it is still early in the morning in the shade, the ideal would be around 11 so you can see the turquoise color that characterizes it. We arrive at our destination: the village has completely caught up, is a piece of Paridise, outside the usual routes. The vessels of the houses with flowers colored pink and fuchsia, crystal-clear bay, the remains of a Roman tomb near the sea, an infinite number of tavernas, bars and shops along the marina. He remained as it was before the earthquake, Venetian-style: it is the only town that was saved from the destructive earthquake that hit the island in 1953. From Fiskardo we go back to the peninsula of Assos on the road follow the signs to the beach and we remain at Emblisi amazed by such beauty. A small bay full of trees and vegetation near the water crystal clear, equally beautiful but more impressive is the Aliates beach, reached by a narrow street in the center of Manganos: there are cliffs that plunge into the sea and a tiny strip of sand. Continue along the road to the peninsula of Assos we stop at the intersection on the lookout that offers views of steep cliffs that plunge. We descend along narrow winding roads and parked out of town: here are all the houses and cafes along the harbor on an emerald bay, there are also some memory of the ruined house that once was! The peninsula is dominated by the ruins of the castle of Assos: It can be reached on foot along a road that goes up to 1.8 km. I had read that it's worth it, but we decided to evaluate in person: not really worth the effort!

snooping around Aghia and Sami, Cephalonia

On August 10 we decided to go to the beach Myrtos hoping not to find the rough sea. We go down the dangerous road with many hairpin bends and we settle on the beach: 8 am completely deserted because they are still in shadow, but mostly because life in Greece does not start before 10. Starts around 10:30 to see the comings and goings of cars completely saturate the available parking. Unfortunately the sea is very rough, but we try to swim too: the waves are deadly and can also be dangerous because they hurl towards the bottom, which is of stone (a stone I took on the painful foot!). The color turquoise, from the bottom, you can not appreciate good, and frankly I think that makes it more impressive from the shore, but they taste! After the beach we head Karavomilos, once attached to Sami on the way we see the signs to the monastery of Them and us to decide to jump. Too bad that we get lost several times along the way to absolute lack of signs at the end we find him, surrounded by cows and calves, but it is closed. Disappointed we descend from the mountain, and we go to see this geological phenomenon in Karavomilos: This is a siphon of water that sinks into the ground north of Argostoli, in Katavothres, and ends here in a pond adjacent to the sea, a paddle wheel indicates the slow-moving current. The same water also goes into the cave Melissani: boat tour through the cave (9:00 to 19:00), 10 seats but spend 7 euros for a round of 15 minutes it seemed a little 'too much, even though the show are stunning. There is mixed turquoise water between sweet and salty, which is reflected sunlight because the roof of the cave collapsed: the games you create different color depending on the time of day when you go. Having still want to sea, we move to Andisamos beach, reached by heading towards the old Sami could be seen from many machines, but the pebble beach is very long and people are well distributed, there is also a Ample parking available land. It is the only area in which we are immersed to observe the fish and we've actually found: a myriad of colorful fish and the underwater cliffs. Another stop we make it to the old Sami, the archaeological site on the hill just above the new Sami as usual there are many explanatory signs, but the scenery is really wonderful and there are spectacular trees. Tired we're going home for dinner, and we taste the first pita: choose a local port on the Grill House, and we enjoy our dinner at an absolutely absurd price: 2.20 euros each!

at a time the south-east

On August 11 we are preparing to visit the south-east of the island. The first stage is Tzannata and the tomb of Mycenaean Tholos: a truly immersive, and a historical record very well preserved and enhanced. Mycenaean tomb is well preserved and largest of Western Greece. Admission is free and the lady who we found on site also speaks Italian. We had to stop in Poros idea to see the cave Drakena, but the lady advised us not to go because you can not visit and all the artifacts found are kept at the Archaeological Museum in Argostoli. We continue to Skala, where are we going to see the remains of a Roman villa, the 2 nd century BC Here, too, entry is free and well worth it because there are mosaics on the floors are nothing short of amazing and very well preserved, there is also a very helpful guide. Afa prey to attacks (to the south is much warmer than the north despite being a small island) go on the beach and choose to Kaminia, where the turtles go to nest: of course we have not seen any, and after a refreshing bath off again for our tour. Along the road to Pessada, we stop at the Church of Our Lady at Markopoulo, erected on the site of an ancient convent: August 15, according to tradition, the feast of the Ascension of the Virgin Mary appear in the church of the harmless snakes with a cross on the back of the head , which are shaken and are auspicious; the custom wants to protect the island from earthquakes. Legend has it that during a pirate attack the convent, the nuns who lived there there, prayed to be transformed into snakes were taken to prevent prisoners, their prayers were answered. The tour continues through Lourdas (taking forever), but we do not stop because the beach is very narrow and chaotic, and we continue to Pessada. Down to the beach there are no signs except in the vicinity of the village, we decided to go from here because it is the point from where the ferries to Zakynthos and information we need: there is only one bar within 10 miles, and not sells tickets for the ferry. These are bought at the very moment of embarkation. Approaching the lunch hour and ask to eat good fish: a man directs us to the marina Spartia, unfortunately there are no street signs and we get there by intuition. The restaurant is called Waterway: we eat very well but we were expecting prices of some 'lower. After the eaten down to the beach down below the cliffs, the bay is very pretty, but at 17.30 is already in the shade so it is advisable to go in the morning. The next step is Argostoli: even if we decide to stop then we will be back quietly, and the pedestrian area is really cute, there are many shops, bars and restaurants, there is also a Catholic church where Mass is celebrated in Italian on Sundays and adjacent to the museum dedicated to the massacre of the division Aqui. We stop to talk with a gentleman in charge of a little museum that tells us' the story of the massacre and it provides information to reach the altar dedicated to the division. The inhabitants of Argostoli and the Italians on holiday will not be able to help you find the monument and unfortunately the signs are scarce.

Argostoli, the beach of clay

On August 12 we decided to dedicate ourselves to Argostoli and the peninsula Paliki. We arrive in Argostoli and immediately we start looking for the memorial: it is over a hill and the place is a sacred and total respect, it seems to go back in history and in feeling, a little further down the road there is also the pit, where the officers were shot, but unfortunately it is privately owned and the Italian state was not able to pay homage to this second (I recommend watching the movie "Captain Corelli's Mandolin" inspired by precisely these events). The second step to do the archaeological museum, which houses all the artefacts found in Mycenaean tombs of the island and several others, is small but very well done. We continue the walk to discover the narrow streets, shops and views of the sea. Lixori leave for, but we decided not to stop and go direct to find a special place to do lunch, Mantzavinata. The beach called Agios Nicholaos Vatsa and is presented by a friendly sign of danger of crocodiles and kangaroos. We arrive at the restaurant Spyros Antonellos, cute place, with tables and chairs on the sand, covered with dried palm leaves and near the sea. The beach below is not worth much but the room with its simple dishes back in time to leave a sense of calm. To the beach we decided to go on X: we did not know how to expect this sandy clay. We come and we are literally stunned: a sandy brown "burnt sienna" and a whole series of beautiful clay cliffs above. The beach is very long and you can make beautiful walks, but care must be taken to pieces of rocks falling off because they are very crumbly. Do not be shocked if you encounter walking down the green men and women are there to make poultices of clay and is also a good excuse to dive into the water. The beach has many facilities, there are concessions bathing, spaces to play and the possibility of water sports: a bit away 'from the center of the expanse you can also find the calm and solitude. After a little 'relaxation we decide to move to the beach of Petani, for enjoying the sunset, and visit other places during the trip. The first at which we stop is the monastery of Kipoureon: a structure overlooking the sea from the terrace, as well as spectacular views, you can enjoy the lapping of the waves breaking on the reef, is a return to nature. Continuing we arrive to the beach Platia Amos, also called the 300 steps, to get there you must go down a dirt road with several hairpin bends and folds, so be careful. Down the road there is a large square, where you can park. Our laziness did not allow us to go down all the steps and we were admiring the transparency and colors on the other: that is definitely worth descend. Leave for our destination, Petani: finding the way was not easy from the point where we came from the south, but asking the elders of the villages we were able to find her. Unfortunately, there are terraces along the road that goes down as Myrtos, to enjoy the beauty of the colors directly descend and remain a little 'disappointed, and the beach of stones left seems a bit' in itself, although there are bars and facilities for the rental of umbrellas, not the sunset was so spectacular because there was not a cloud in the sky and the play of color were few.

rest

On August 13 we take it as a day to recharge our batteries, we have made ??so many miles and decide to relax in a cove along the road from Agia in Sami, Cephalonia and take this opportunity to catch a little 'do not bring your fishing rods in Kefalonia, because the fish along the coast is completely absent and do not listen to the advice of local fish with feta cheese and bread (the maggots are impossible to find!).

in the vicinity of Mount Enos

On August 14 we have to change rooms because we have decided to extend our stay in Kefalonia, Lefkada without going to, as they had thought prior to departure, and fortunately we do not have to change the structure because the friendly owner has taken action to find the solution. In the afternoon we drive to the plain of Omala, under Mount Enos. Let's go primarily to visit the fortress of San Giorgio: Admission is free, the ruins are beautiful, but the fortress is not valued in the complex because there are no guides, explanatory signs and the visitor is left to himself, yet the view enjoyed from up there pays for every disappointment, even Byron was impressed. The time of the visit was not a good choice because there are many shelters from the sun and the heat we suffered a lot. After we recovered a little ', we share the time of the Monastery of Saint Gerasimos: August 16 is the feast in honor of his birth and is full of stalls and people on a pilgrimage. Inside the church there is a cave under the floor: it is the place where the saint is locked up for the media. Behind the monastery is Robola of the cooperative, where you can taste and buy wine of Kefalonia: there are different varieties and better than the other (a rosé wine we tasted was a sweet mix of strawberries, and our Muscat, a delight to the palate) to buy wine is perhaps one of the best places for these varieties are many. Wishing to bring home only typical Greek, returning to Aghia Efimia, we stop to Makriotica where there is a dairy cooperative which sells the fresh feta cheese: it's arrived safely home after two days including travel! Near Sami instead we took the delicate thyme honey, from a lady who sold it at the roadside and the producer was her husband.

trip to Zante

The day of August is expected the hike to the Blue Caves of the wreck and the beach in Zakynthos. We get up early to go to Pessada to embark (ferries depart from Pessada at 8:00 and 18:00, while St. Nikolaos start at 9:45 and 19:45, there is no need to book the ticket and is done on site at the time of boarding. The cost is € 7.50 per person and 31 € for the car) and after an hour and a half we landed at the port of Agios Nikolaos. We walk and we hope that the company we chose for the boat trip is near: Cape Skinari is, the tip of the island to the north and there are three brothers, very nice and available for 15 € you do do everything around the Blue Grotto and take to the beach where you leave the wreck for an hour. It took about an hour to walk to the lighthouse at the head Skinari, (the port there are services for renting scooters) along the dirt roads and uphill, but with breathtaking views of the sea. We arrive at the lighthouse, we surpass it and descend down the cliff where we find the Potamitis Bros and the boarding point for excursions. Having confessed that we arrived on foot, the brothers were very kind and have assured us a ride to the port at the time of departure from Zakynthos. We get in the boat and we wait an hour browsing among the many caves with crystal clear water really, with many corals and some with the water of a bright blue that it looks blue color of the body: we had a bath in those most beautiful. Their visit is recommended always in the morning because they are located north-east and in the afternoon in the shade. We return to the starting point, we change boat and together with a larger group of tourists we are heading towards the beach from the wreck: an hour to leave us here to enjoy the crystal clear blue sea that characterizes the bay, which has the only access from the sea . On the beach there is the wreck of a ship which ran aground here smugglers after failure: the atmosphere is really fascinating, you can rise above the ship, but attention to the protruding rods. The expiration time the boat to take us and brings us back to the lighthouse. We go up the cliff and we stop for lunch at the restaurant to Faros taverna, has always been run by three brothers who also have two windmills with rooms to rent. On the reef have also placed a wooden deck for sunbathing and is connected to the blue grotto underneath a long flight of steps: we spent the whole day at this fantastic, original and complete structure. The hour of departure arrived, as promised, we are one of the brothers to take the boat down the staircase and we took her back to the port of Agios Nikolaos: without him we would have had to walk another hour.

looks past the island

He arrived on the last day of vacation, and reluctantly we salute the owner very nice hotel. We head up north because it is that the ferries from Fiskardo to Lefkada. Along the harbor there is an information center where you can book your ferry ticket (tel. 2674041440), then be collected upon boarding, but in total chaos (the cost is € 7.50 and € 33.50 per person for the car). Before embarking we stop for the last time to enjoy the crystal clear waters of the beach around 12:00 Emblisi and look for a place that makes us eat, before you leave. It was difficult because in Greece you lunch from 14:00 to 16:00 and dinner from 21:00 until late at night: we found a local restaurant Lagoudera, all colorful and cute that we had the pleasure of us to eat, fortunately. At the appointed time we head to the boarding point: the port is very disorganized because there is a narrow road that must accommodate both the cars that go down that those who must go up, and beside them there is a kiosk where you pick up tickets, but without there being a sense of orderly line and then people crowd as best they can. Survived this, he began the return trip: Vasiliki disembark and, again with a little 'luck, we can disengage from the chaos and we are going to travel the 160 km that separate us from the port of Igoumenitsa. Tired but satisfied we settle on the corridor of the ship and we get back with nostalgia to review all the pictures taken.