Cruising the Peloponnesia with our motorbike: Greece travel review

Rome Bari Patras for embarkation. From Patras, along the highway to Corinth deviation from Diakoto on Kalvrita, overnight in Klitoria, hence passing through Tripoli to Argos and Nafplio, overnight in this city, of up to Leonid lungokosta them, then climb up to the mountains Kosmas and descent Geraki, Sikia to Monemvassia, stop here for two days continuing Neapoli, Elafonissis stop here two days, then to Prosegur Githio, overnight, and then turn hands to Acropolis, Golimenas, Vathia, Marmari where he stopped two Girne visiting Cape Tenaro, Porto Kagio. Resume for Kotronas. Closed round next morning, passing the Messinian Gulf, until Kardamili, where they will reside. Through Kalamata, Koroni to where he will reside. Next stage through Methoni and Pylos, to Kiparissia. Overnight. Visit of Olympia, overnight in Katakolo. Final stage with a sota Kilini and boarding Patras

 

August 2007
Around the Peloponnese with the Monster

Again, for 2007, despite the years, Returns and I decide to tackle, for our holiday, with our motorcycle Monter the streets of Greece. We already know Greece, vacation earlier, by car, motorbike or boat, but we fought mainly islands and coasts facing them, now we want to take the big island, from the excavation of the Corinth Canal became the Peloponnese. The longest stage, 450 km, are the first and last, running on the highways that take us from Rome to Bari and vice versa.
For some time thinking about this holiday, but for a variety of issues and commitments, we are grandparents of a great number of grandchildren, we were not able to schedule dates and ways, the decision to go in motion, almost suddenly, we have taken .
Friday, August 17
We arrive at the port of Bari, without having booked the ferry, but for a bike there is always a place in the hold, despite its in August, perhaps for the date for the superstitious, considered inauspicious (17 and Friday), there are even two seats in the cabin, we can sleep on comfortable bunks, which allows us to arrive refreshed to face the first step in land Hellenic
Saturday, August 18th.
We decide to start from within, by visiting the much-vaunted Kalavrita. I on the lens of the tank bag, an old paper rather imprecise that incorrectly points the way to the destination programmed to suffer from the northern suburbs of Patras, I move, therefore, reluctantly, toward the highway to Corinth. Reluctantly, because that way, I already know is very busy. I realize too late the error, but I'm not going to step back, two other road routes from the coast of the Gulf of Corinth lead to Kalavrita missed the first, intercepting the second running from Diakofto, known among others for railway which connects it to a fascinating walk Kalavrita.
Leaving behind him the nightmare of the highway, we go on a nice high street many curbs unfortunately begun to taste the bitterness of the slopes burned by the fires that have devastated the Peloponnese this summer and beyond. It will not be the only sad spectacle of this tour, but the first impact has substantial effects and is imprinted in our memory, erasing the images that we have really seen, the memory of entire mountainsides, incredible for an extension, reduced to ashes. The upper limit of the area burned in a tavern, lapped, but spared by the fire, consume the first Greek salad, and drank my first retzina, the resinous wine, no longer in use in 'Attica. less common in Peloponnese
Kalavrita disappoints us a little ', will be waiting for the reports generated by the reading of enthusiastic that led us to climb, a little' for comparison with the good memories of Athens we visited back in the seventies, maybe today, too contaminated tourism arrembante.
We grant you a short stop, a cafe-frappe, a visit to the little station where we enjoy the sight of an old, small locomotive with a tender full of firewood in the furnace of the steam engine.
The presence of many tourists, mostly Greeks, the fame of the place, lead us, not to spend too much, go south to look for a "room to let", here is rare, the term "domatia" we've learned vacation in the islands. We walk along beautiful valleys, on a more modest way of going up to Kalvrita, but of sufficient quality.
Joints Klitoria we stop at a lovely hotel, which seems suited to our modest demands, they say that it is complete. You probably suspect that being in motion, we will not stop for one night and we suggest that you contact the service station at the entrance of the village where the operators rent out rooms. The room offered to us is clean and tidy, but we will pay the ultimate price, 60 € for one night, the whole holiday. A Kalavrita would cost less!
Put our things useful for the night, which are contained in the tank bag, we go out to visit Klitoria. It 'a big country, decent and animated, reached the main square, where under the plane trees are neatly arranged in many taverns, with outdoor tables, one of them sit. Gradually all the chairs around the tables are filled, it seems that the whole population, including children and priest involved in a great feast, cheerful and animated, although the food served is simple and not much changed.

Sunday, August 19 . Early in the morning part, through a nice mountain area, the road is generally good. Before arriving in Tripoli, we have breakfast at a service station, with an adjoining cafe and mini-market, served by children. In Tripoli we do not stop, anxious to sea. The road that descends to the Gulf Argolic, from 655 m Tripoli, is one of the most beautiful and spectacular, which makes driving a pleasure of the bike. The show becomes exciting when it appears far the gulf, to which it falls with wide bends. More mundane path, Once in the coastal plain. We choose to go first Argos. The present town, like many here, is not particularly interesting, not like the ruins of the Roman era and earlier, as the theater, baths and other ruins, and the castle, which overlooks the city from a high hill. . Upon our arrival the area is still immune to fire, but it is very hot. We visit the ruins adjacent to the city Current, eat a sandwich, sitting on the steps of the ancient theater, and some technical mountain equipment, we suppose, for shows scheduled for the next few days. We are being strained by the scorching sun, thus renounce to climb the fort. In this case, and thereafter in more than one occasion, we had to forgo visiting sites that deserved our attention, to meet our program to travel around the perimeter of the Peloponnese in too short period the holidays that are possible and not change our vacation in a tour de force. Reassembled in motion we aim to Nafplio, which is a few miles, following the coastal road arrested matching port. We sit at a table outside a cafe to sip Greek, admire The Venetian fort, called Bourtzi, all surrounded by the sea and seeing have fun, to squabble among masters boats carrying tourists to visit, a brawl, actually very quiet, unusual for the Greeks who for accents and tone of voice, seem always about to fight, even if it is a normal conversation. Nafplio is somewhat extended on the coastal plain, in part, climbs a steep ridge hill, which innervates a peninsula crowned by a fortress at the summit that overlooks two seas. A second fort on the root of the peninsula climbs even higher and steeper. Argos have given up to climb to the Castro, here we can not but go to the first fortress. A road Vehicle access would allow us to go with the bike, but prefer to walk up stairs to climb and slotted rising among the houses. Need to do some careful, because the risers of the steps are in a white limestone made smooth and slippery to wear a thousand steps. Reached the top we realize that it is worth it of the climb, which opens expanded views. The second fortress we are content to contemplate looking upward. Descend along ramps and streets filled with cafes and souvenir shops, reminiscent of other well-known tourist sites, perhaps inappropriately, I recall the streets of Ponza harbor. Explore the possibilities to find accommodation at reasonable prices, but we are quickly discouraged by the demands excessive, replace the engine and start the way along the bay. Standstill for the first time a cartel "room to let", we are already resigned to once again pay € 60 for a room not much, but the request to have a towel for each for the shower, the big man with whom we are dealing with an opposing outright refusal, is not willing to provide more than one, tiny, upside, if there is good we can also leave, the suggestion that we accept without hesitation. Different reception of a gentle lady the periphery of the first next village, which for 35 €, gives us a nice domatia, towels in abundance, and a breakfast served in your room. Wander around the village, the sea does not invite us to bathe the beach muddy, to have a little 'background you have to go far out, more has risen a strong breeze. We end the evening in the usual tavern. bedtime.

Monday, August 20
The next day we have a pretty stage, very varied, about 170 km, will follow the case of high costs, then climb right back over 1700 m through villages, hills and plains, down to sea level. The first section gives us landscapes worthy of comparison to the Amalfi coast, (the landscapes of Greece are mostly less smiling, sometimes grim,) the route is also fun in terms of motorcycle road generally good up to this Leonidio inhabited the road goes through mountains and valleys within the incumbent. Before leaving the coast, we stop at one of those squares with small niches surmounted by a cross and dedicated to some Agios, ie Holy particularly revered by the local religion. We sit on comfortable benches under a canopy of trellis, when a couple of campers stop by, nor fall sympathetic compatriots already motorcyclists, who express their envy us for our means of transport, less convenient, but more exciting. We offer good coffee, this time Italian style, and a bottle of water just out of the fridge, more palatable than that, more than lukewarm, which is contained in a bottle tied to our Bagaglino, exposed to the scorching sun. Proceed in the opposite direction to ours and we predict the severity of the stroke mountain that we face.
Before starting to climb, we carry on the coast in what seems like the navy of Leonidas, for refreshment at an inn overlooking a small harbor, the owner greets us with "Hello brother" that justifies the collection of the account: " I have a Sicilian grandfather, that's why brothers! "
Resumed the road, are a bit 'worried, thinking back to what we have told the Italian friends. A state of tension will accompany me throughout the mountainous tract. At first, the difficulties are indeed special, the valleys are open. First arrived in town on the route, the road narrows in places to a single lane, and reared in a very steep ramp, with poor visibility of those who could meet you. Going forward inspires a certain fear that downstream, there is no security and often touches on a hillside is lapping real abysses. We know that safety barriers and walls are not friends of bikers, but to see the corners of the side scroll all the emptiness, makes a certain effect. The road is not the best, some landslide, not pointed, narrowing the road section and become more frequent turns. In exchange, the landscape offers splendid views, although rather harsh, until you reach the higher altitudes, where the vegetation takes on a distinctly alpine.
After passing the ridge began to descend, gently at first, then reached the village of Kosmas the descent becomes steeper at times, with narrow unreported, where he would encounter a problem with a vehicle going uphill. We end in an open square on a large church, shaded by majestic plane trees, with people sitting at the cafe. Despite the very hot season, speak, even here, its effects, it treasures its freshness, because we are at 1680 m above sea. We stop just a little, still have to travel more than seventy miles to the fixed goal. The road downhill after a first stroke, has features quite different, no more winding roads and ramps, but a pattern with a succession of corners and wide straights that follow the slow degradation of the mountain.
After the descent, is not over our stage, as is done, but the last stretch, a little 'because of less interest, partly' because we are tired it seems not to have to go on forever, then through some villages, followed by the gaze just concerned, the men sitting at the cafe. In one of these settlements, we find ourselves in a very narrow steep angle from the bottom slippery, as can happen sometimes in these parts.
Even a handful of miles, and by the end shows us the wonder of the rocky outcrop that towards the ground, bounds the peninsula where it rises, hidden from view: Monemvassia,. ancient fortified settlement. It 'almost dark, but postponed until after the search of a room, satisfied to have reached the coveted goal. We sit at the tables of a cafe, near the sea, contemplating the view, sipping a coffee-milk shake. We are Gefira, an eminently tourist village, built, apparently, specifically in the ancient fortified town.
Simo rewarded the effort, because we find, at 45 €, good accommodation in a lovely residential complex comprising of rooms with services, administered by a friendly man with grizzled beard, so we decide to stop at least two days.
In three days of travel, the landing at Patras, we walked a lot 'of miles and we are already close to the southern tip of the Peloponnese, we deserve, therefore, a little' rest. We read of Monemvassia wonders, and we think deserves a thorough visit. This sea is just as valuable and wish to immerse themselves in its waters.
Tuesday, August 21
The next morning, we leave the bike in the parking lot and we prepare to walk towards the only door that opens from the side of the mainland in the walls of Monemvassia, whose name seems to mean, in fact, unique door. Join us have to drive a narrow isthmus, and about a kilometer of road on the hillside along the seashore. The visit to this ancient settlement requires at least a day, even briefly describe it would require more pages, the descriptions are not lacking, even in the network, some are mentioned in the enclosed link.
We had read in a publication dated, published by National Geographic Magazine, about Monemvasia the astonishment of the author, for the limited attention of tourism to this place today is not really more so, the wonder is rather attracted by the ease, with which it intervenes, reconstructing old buildings in ways not just to follow correct rules of the restoration, it is true that to prevent all falls into disrepair, some concession to the rules of profit and some will tolerate is clear, but ....
Despite the invasion of the market for souvenirs, and a few other false notes, the impression left with you in depth, both for the beauty of the place: nature and man, both for the history that it evokes. Filmed in length and breadth of the old village, it is the turn of the Sea, down the old pier, which is accessed by a hole in the wall to sea, we dive in the clear, with great satisfaction.

Wednesday, August 22
The day after visiting Monemvassia, we go farther south to bathe safely in the marina of Xiphias, finished the bathroom go further, to admire the coast, we stop at the end on the hill overlooking the beautiful beach of Agios Fokas, where being implemented in a vast project of parcelling. Of dedicated local all'Agios Fokas, not lacking in Greece, some of which are already affected, as others, from the scourge of an incorrect tourism development initiatives, which can have devastating effects, is what we fear when we see happen here, too, saddened , the billboards and earthworks in progress.

Thursday, August 23

The eastern peninsula of Laconia, we still have to visit the southernmost part. Climbing over the ridge, to bring about Neapolis, we can see very beautiful panoramic views towards the one and the high seas. A strong wind disturbs not just march into motion, came to Neapolis, we sit in a cafe near the harbor and seeing the trailer by the Coast Guard, a sloop flying the Italian flag, in apparent failure of the engine. Among the sailors of the port we are taking some sneer, but to us, we have at the time challenged the Meltemi, a 22-foot, proceeding to sail, this seems very honorable surrender, though probably the skipper has had his own reasons . The crew consists of a couple, she remains on board and seems to want to make very small, he, looking sullen, goes to the captaincy for the bureaucracy of the case.
Minneapolis does not offer much of interest during the last few kilometers on the road, we noticed a camper Elafonissos to divert, back to the junction in order to embark on one of the ferries that ply continuity between the mainland and the island. Elafonissos is sought after tourist destination, it may seem hard to find a "room to let". When we arrive in a new place, are taken from agitation, fearing not to find accommodation, Returns impassive hand is always certain to succeed, so too here, the top reason I seem to have two or three approaches on the waterfront receive refusal, almost seems like we are vagabonds snobbino tourists and equipment. We advance in the internal streets and soon receive a positive response.
Our guests are a pair of middle age, he suffers from diabetes, she seems resigned to a life without much satisfaction, and many regrets. We are tenderness, sit down, use local front door to talk; by side, partly walled, bitten by a blacksmith, painted in blue, recalls that the landlord had been a blacksmith. We are ignorant of greek, apart from the usual phrases, but here almost all speak at least a little English, we tell a little 'our lives: the children, grandchildren, work the ailments. We stopped two days, the first we explore the shore facing the mainland, the bottom drops little sand, but mostly submerged reefs and rocks and not recommended for bathing and swimming. Moving away from the town we reach an area with beautiful sand dunes, with scrub, highlight the juniper shrubs but also real trees, with large fragrant berries.
Friday, August 24
The second day you walk through the east coast, past the obstacle of great heat, which contained the very drink that water in our bottles becomes warm, luckily there is wind that cools a little. In the first part of the way we meet a small yard, abandoned, now a real graveyard of boats. Route, a few kilometers (four or five?), We are the only ones to proceed on foot, continually exceeded every kind of vehicle, we climbed up a hill from where a downhill stretch and a good plan separate us from the famous beach called Simo , compared to a Caribbean beach. The depth is remarkable dell'Arenile few hundred meters. Here the wind that we were friends, we target with the sand that raises. A row of chairs dell'elioterapia populated by convicts who stoically endures the blast, it seduces us, we move on an isthmus separating two bays, where many boats are at anchor, waiting for the diminishing of the fury of the wind. Isthmus having water on both sides are sheltered by the sand blowing in the wind. After exploring the site, refreshing baths, a tavern and a siesta on a dune in the shade of a large juniper, there we go back, still on foot at the base.
Saturday, August 25
Left, with a little 'Elafonissos of regret, we are focusing on Gythio, trying to follow the variations closer to the coast road. Before entering the town, for a refreshing bath, we stop the inlet, which precedes the best known for the presence of a wreck beach. Monster parked under an olive tree, we descend on the beach, while we bathe, the eye often runs into the smoke go gray sky, the other swimmers, most Greeks do not seem at all alarmed, this enables us to be. In the interval between the bath and a nap on the beach, eat, needless to say, in the usual crowded tavern, located on the hill overlooking the cove. E 'late afternoon, but we are far from the hour of twilight when we go back in motion, the sun is still high for red smoke screen and red light reflexes left the road, a helicopter from the large blades, appeared on the hills our right, the bucket of water, suspended in its fuselage, there is the effect of a miserable bucket, compared to the fire that we sense behind the ridge.
Gythio is a pleasant city that develops along the coast. Walk in the evening before the tavern on the waterfront, we lie down in a room adjacent to a cafe.

Sunday, August 26
Next target the peninsula of Mani. The road, as often in the Peloponnese, alternating stretches of coast sometimes hilly or mountainous interior features. We decide to visit the peninsula travel clockwise. Areopoli first stage, the City of Ares, for the Latin Mars.
Time rimastoci, is not so much, we can not see everything we want. Areopoli we read about the caves of Pirgos Dirou, go down to browse, we do not attract the bowels of the earth, and we do not enter the gates of Hades, but we simply admire the little bay full of boats at anchor. Still in motion, ignoring the thousands of deviations for the villages scattered here and there, along the main road.
All around, not the usual Greek houses, white, often with blue shutters, as if to reflect the colors of the flag, but brick houses of stone-to-face view, with the corners marked by rusticated flush of square blocks. Here the families were at war with each other and the houses were fortresses, the windows louvers. Unfortunately, even in the peninsula of Mani, you run the risk of deviating, as history has left many towers renovated too cute, into villas, indeed many villas built from scratch seems like a parody of the severity of the old towers mimate tastefully uneven, many There are also offers for the purchase of land and buildings.
We stop at Gerolimenas, a beautiful country, overlooking the sea surrounded by tight rocky barriers. Here the fire has already burned scrub and trees. We stop to rest and bathe in a clear sea, in the company of elderly Greeks, mostly women, who swam beano and conversing with their heads covered by hats pitched. We take advantage of the country enough equipped to do a little shopping and went, with the aim of reaching Alika. I do not know where, I think I have read that it is a fishing village, but arrived at the fork seems quite different. Be said that driving a motorcycle on winding roads, from the bottom of uncertain quality on the fly, and reading signs in Greek letters is not improbable run into misunderstandings. In the fourth high school in ancient times, I studied a bit 'of ancient Greek, but by law should spell as a child in elementary. I go forward, intercepted a distributor of Mobil Oil, as reported last place fuel, (the warning is valid, it seems a few years ago, is no longer true, a few tens of kilometers further on the east coast, we will find another distributor) Continue we reach Vathia, after a surge of road paved with concrete. Vathi is the center where it is kept intact most of the buildings and the character of the complex. Many stop, shoot and continue, the country seems almost dead, there's even a tavern or coffee, which in Greek means desolation. We have to do lunch packets, but not water, Returns asks a polite young lady, one of the few inhabitants, where you can buy, the answer is "there are no shops, accompanied by the gift of a bottle well-chilled, equipment his home .. Consumed our meal we go.
We will not go very far, a few kilometers, we find two successive junctions, the first offering as an alternative to the east coast of the peninsula, the second door Kagio we seeing right a settlement that attracts us, it is Marmari, we decide to choose it. E 'a set of style buildings, Mani, the ancient part of recent imitations, all overlooking a cove bordered by a beautiful beach, overlooked by the slopes partly burned. Staying in a house that looks newly built, (€ 35) higher than the central core that includes a cafe and a tavern. We decide to stop two days, the first more relaxed, to bathe the beach of Marmara, the second to explore the surrounding
Monday, August 27
At the beach a group of Italians, who had noticed at Elafonissos on the beach of Simo, beside and born one of those fast friends of the typical vacation, tell us about the days of anxiety that preceded our arrival, the evening meal in Taverna, the Greek television broadcast scenes of fire and burned in the meantime the side opposite Marmari. As we bathe snowing ash in the late afternoon we repeat the phenomenon observed before reaching Githio the sun well up, already red, will not be the last time we see him in these holidays.
Tuesday, August 28
There comes the desire to go to the eastern side of the peninsula, we are informed as to whether the road to the second fork, which is marked on our maps as a dirt road, is complete and paved, as there was given to understand by looking at the traffic, the answer is yes. but not sufficient, it fires towards Agios Kiprianos, we are informed, for blocking the road. We should return to the purpose of exploring the tip of the promontory that ends with Cape Matapan Tenaro also said.
First visit to the temple of Poseidon, an evocative place, a little 'disappointed in the wreck, a wreck of a wall of squared stones, and a little time, certainly not of the classical age, the ancient Greeks did not build times, but remains of a shrine Christian erected on the ruins of the god of the sea. Paliros is a group of houses typically hands, not meeting anyone, but there are many cars parked. Go down the steep road leading to Port Kagio, a small village overlooking a bay well protected one, all surrounded by hills.
Some tourists, some campers, a sailboat tacking it to take off, boats moored at anchor, with the top down, part of a scheme to bring them back from the shore, a plump girl who insists, with a Technical diving a bit 'awkward, to fish for sea urchins, with great production of spray and displaying his buttocks, you know where the ducks peck on the bottom of the corner of the sky'.
We carry on the right side, watching the sea, the coast, a small market, where we intend to buy something for a picnic, the owner is closing the shop, but go back and we need it, it will meet again to repeat the same maneuver several times . After the purchase of a sudden we go back to a path, then we throw ourselves into the water from a dock. The tour ends at the tavern for a coffee. Then returned to Marmari.

Wednesday, August 29

Let Marmari, going back to the ridge dividing the two sides of the peninsula of Mani, along steep ramps, narrow hairpin bends. Reached the top we can not stop admiring the succession of coves, villages, scrub-covered slopes more distant horizons.
The descent is steep and sinuous, the pleasure of driving is not a reward for all the necessary attention to the busy road, but turned away from view. Here the fire was extinguished quickly, we do not notice obvious devastation. This side of the peninsula seems more charming, more bitter than the other. Even here in masonry houses tower-to-face view that the use of Mani. Once at the root of the peninsula we head Kotronas. We have some uncertainty on the road, back a piece back to a village where we had noticed a group of elderly people sitting outside a cafe to talk, our questions are animated in the usual broken English and give us the right information, not without having first presented one of them, centenary, almost a boast, surrounded by the caring attention of others, care for older we had noted previously elsewhere in our journey.
We bring the end of the dock of a marina where we dive in the clear, refreshing waters. After completing the circumnavigation of the coast of the peninsula of Mani, aimed at Acropolis to close the round and proceed to Kalamata
From a seascape, we enter into a road, with characters of the mountain, which is also in a valley rather closed, the variety of landscapes is one of the most appreciated features of the Peloponnese. For Areopolis we do not stop and we strive towards the north. Soon one looks at which it places on the eastern edge of the Messinian gulf, is a grandiose spectacle, a magnificent coast, who opposed the high chain Taygetus. This view had already appreciated by coming to Githio Areopolis. The road, a good track, descends rapidly from more than two hundred meters towards the sea, but soon takes the discomfort, this side that we had admired a few days ago, it marked a serious fire, triggered only a few hours after our previous step, the focus here has earned the dubious distinction of damage and casualties in this summer's deadly. Crops, olive groves, houses blackened by fire almost lead us to escape with their eyes, metaphorically, closed.
He soon gained the upper hand, need a little 'selfish, to enjoy our holiday, stray from the main road towards the coast, to take a bath. The street that leads us to the sea is a shaft to a housing development of tourist homes under construction, which reminds us of similar motions disfiguring settlements that have disfigured so much of our coastline. We park the bike under a tree next to cars predominantly Greek, and we carry on a lovely beach, stop for a rest and a refreshing bath. The goal of today's stage: Kardamili.ci receives, routes about fifteen miles, with the smiling face of a site free from the ravages of fire, but signals its proximity with the clouds of smoke into the sky grays. The town is set in the midst of the most pleasant. Returns sets out in search of a room, while I stood near the bike back after the first visit, this time, I propose, even if it means a greater outlay, (40 €) to give a little luxury, a room with view, approve, and when I stand on a first floor full of greenery, including banana and a background, a beautiful coastline and a sea, I can only confirm my approval. The complex which includes the bedroom, is owned by a German, who chose to live here, cohabiting or married a greek, a type witty and sympathetic co-manages the firm. The rooms are large, for bathing, there is a descent to the sea, which, on a small cove on the left, with a short beach or if you prefer, right, on a beach with a parade of lounge chairs and umbrellas. To throw a little 'breath we stop for two days to enjoy the sea and landscape.
Friday, August 31
Crossed, not without some difficulty in interpreting the signs, Kalamata, a city dall'impronta and the urban dimension, we turn south to begin the circumnavigation of the peninsula south-west of the Peloponnese, the next step Koroni, a pretty village with a fishing port, A large Venetian fort, a promenade with many tavernas. Find accommodation at the end, left watching the sea, in a room on the ground floor, overlooking the sea. We step to the left to bathe in the sea, water depth, also advanced a lot does not increase much. We stop for a day, taken from laziness, do not visit the fort, we prefer to walk along the sea and the pier at the ends of which still amazes us a great clamshell stainless steel.
Little more than thirty miles and we are in Methoni The road is beautiful, with unique panoramic views, but when it appears Methoni vision is superb.
The site is aatale without infamy and without praise, at least for the little 'we visited, but the natural environment and the castle are very beautiful and interesting. After the ritual of coffee, we start visiting the walled city, so who better to call the castle, for the variety and the extension, visit requires a few hours well spent.
When we reach the outermost point, targeted relentlessly by the sun, we see a visitor to dive back to swim, much to our envy, but we have no costumes and bags and a camera, it must continue the visit to walk through the sunny, open spaces, but is finally a good thing, can we see other things like baths covered by domes in which there are portholes to take light from above. Leaving the ancient fortified walls, feel a desire for a refreshing swim in the sea many have gone before us, the way of bathing for many tourists, especially the Greeks, is to sit straight up to our necks with a hat on.
The bike is parked with the luggage to the edge of the village to get our costumes go that far, indossatili we move closer to the beach, but we realize that it is not easy to find the path to be routed to the deep water, banks rocks just below the water surface, making it difficult, we follow a woman who seems to already know the backgrounds, but will not be a large bathroom, I regret not be dipped toward the end of the fort.
After a packed lunch and a short siesta in the shade of tamarisk trees, taking the road towards Pylos. . The wide creek in front, and the Bay of Navarino is completely protected from any wind, the place famous because of the famous naval battle in October of 1827, battle, rebel Greeks with the decisive contribution of the Anglo-French - Russian on the Ottoman and Egyptian fleets, battle that marked the end of the turkish domination.
Staying in a hotel, affordable price, situated near a pier of the port from the balcony the view is framed by a pole and wires arranged in a confused way, as used here. Not far away a banchinaggio cement, with ladders to climb from the sea is home to many swimmers, to which we join diving. For today we have had enough of visiting forts and neglect to visit those of Pylos,

Saturday, September 1st
Upon awakening, it awakens the desire to visit the fortifications, we are quite willing to bring us to visit the lagoon Gialova, a few miles further north. Separated by a barrier of sand from the bay of Navarino, the lagoon is formed in a natural oasis, a pleasant, but perhaps because we are in a season not favorable, we see little of life, such as wildlife, other than blobs of snails clinging to Dried twigs, reading the signs of presence of birds, resting place of migration, but we do not see anything either in flight or on the water, the comparison comes naturally with the saline lagoons of Cagliari, with their flock of flamingos, or with Nature Reserve Nazzano, even the seagulls are a rarity.
From the oasis we pass the Bay of Navarino, we are now approaching the northern bay, along the sand bar that separates the lagoon from the Gulf, we dive to cool off and return to the Monster we had parked on the street. Direct Kiparissia, on the way we visit the Palace of Nestor, a complex reduced to ruins in which law is not much more than the soles of the palace of an ancient mythological king and pseudovolta a Mycenaean tomb, placed in a beautiful grove of trees.
A Kiparissia, we once again a discrepancy with the owner of a room to rent, in respect of towels for the shower, the Lord has chosen to rent rather than abandon us two towels, it is curious that this type of conflict has happened to us with men, women much more nimble mentally, we have always golden bridges, even here it is, just a couple blocks over.
Kiparissia is a very large settlement, which greatly extends inland from the sea. After the daily bath, done on a large expanse, rather crowded, try to visit the usual fortress-castle, climbing a road that climbs up towards the entrance, but is barred, all around the square seems to have become public toilet. Fold back far from satisfied and look worried and surprised two young men who dressed and with shoes on his feet, down almost running down the steep escarpment which overlooks a high cliff which overlooks the sea in which he threw himself with a dip, standing for at least thirty meters.
Sunday, September 2nd
Today the goal is far from the sea: Olimpia, but for some distance the road runs along the Ionian Sea.
After twenty-five miles, we see through the trees on our right a coastal lagoon or a lake, a pleasant diversion, but everything about the show is disheartening for the trees blackened, and the ash left by the fires, we feel l 'smell of burnt wood. On reaching the junction for Kaiafas, I propose to take the detour to visit the lake, Resi is a little puzzled, rises in some places still smoke, but now I reassure her everything is burned, there should be no danger. For a short walk down the road beyond the lake brings us back to the south. Our survey stops at the Baths of Kaiafa, where we meet many people, strikes you in such desolation, see people, at least in appearance seems calm and serene.
With some uncertainty for doubt on the signs, we come to Olympia, the first impression is not favorable, the city now gives the impression of being around a monument to tourism and trade in souvenirs, like when you come to our sanctuary, which is sacred at first glance, seem to have much, but when we get inside the fence archaeological ruins on which prevail even though the weather has given its heavy mark, the excitement is sky high and despite the heat, we do not lose a detail, among other things fascinate drums of marble columns of which the erosion shows very clearly the underwater sedimentary origin, with fossil shells shells clearly,
The sacred grove on the hill overlooking the site, is heavily damaged by fire, firefighters spraying the ground to cushion any outbreak dormant, but the impression is that you want to show here, but we also observed along the road an activity that is not the moment that it would serve. Finally we visit the museum contains wonderful exhibits well displayed, even if the best parts seem to be in Athens. The only flaw, basically negligible, the adjoining bar, a sign that says you can pay by credit card, but when the exhibits, I am told that there is not current, sorry manifestly ridiculous, all around everything is lit profusely. After the visit to Olympia, we are focusing on Katakolo us curious for its position on a promontory. We exit the highway to Patras. At Pyrgos we go out across the city have the usual problems due to signs, finally resolved by asking passers-by. Running on a road section and features unusually high, reaching the small port town. Without stopping one of the many cafes that face the harbor basin, we put ourselves in search of a room, without success, until a nice young man cycling brings us and guides us up and up a staircase that goes up the hill parallel to the coast . The steps are of varying size and as a show like that kick, painted white and outlined in blue, there are several before reaching its destination. A row of low buildings, among the olive trees, white and blue as the stairs are rented rooms and accommodation of the young man and his family including his mother and father, Mr. Tsokalas, a sailor. Infer that the three have invested money and effort to build this complex, hoping to improve their lives, and compensating for difficult access at competitive prices and the beautiful view of the way, enjoy. On the shelf, giving you access to the rooms, we sit at a table enjoying the view of the harbor, the sea and the surroundings, and a beautiful bunch of grapes proffered.
Monday, September 3
Upon awakening, we see a large cruise ship docked in the port, from which descend several passengers for the visit to Katakolo and the usual shopping. In farewell to friendly guests have the pleasure of the lower (€ 25) of the entire holiday.
We are looking for a place to bathe, but the port occupies a good part of the front to the sea, so we decide to continue for the next target: Kilini Killini or port of embarkation for Zakynthos and Cephalonia. We follow the maze of minor roads, when he began to believe they will never reach Kilini, behold, there appears the port. There's also a beautiful beach with many swimmers, on the occasion to a bath. The landscape is nice but not as exciting as what we enjoyed for most of our tour, a lot of clouds in the sky appear to hold out the change of time, was planning a night here, but for those two reasons above, we decide We should aim at Patras to return home.
We go in the gut of the highway, we quickly than a drop in turbulent flow of traffic, arrived at the city port of embarkation, once last time we lose the succession of signs, let's guess, and finally, perhaps not the shortest way, lead to the chaos of the port, just missing the time of shipment, but we do we win two seats deck.

Tuesday, September 4th
Landed at Bari, managed to escape the downpours and thunderstorms, we see all around, only a few miles from Rome, to protect us from some squalls, rain wear clothes that we rode around the Peloponnese, without ever having to extract from containers.
The Peloponnese has fascinated us, if we could leave at once. The inhabitants are mostly friendly and helpful, except when they are at the wheel of a car or truck, then it becomes overbearing and reckless run like crazy, overtaking, verges everywhere on the bumps in the curve, ignoring the prohibition, drivers manage to be worse than the Italians. The streets are now paved for the most part, but the road surface is often crossed in both transverse and longitudinal, which is in motion is not the best, there are sections slippery especially in residential areas. The signs are not always present and complete, in most cases, it is written in both Greek and Latin characters, but not always creates problems. A road sign is missing entirely is that of "soft shoulder", but there is only the sign but almost everywhere even the appearance of the platform and the asphalt ends directly, even on motorways, even deep in gutters, or on a step on the ground outside. The relief roads or highways, often at intersections, are, primarily, to a single carriageway, with no central reservation.

Greece still alive!


LINK
http://www.ongvirtualstore.it/venezia/vene6.asp
Start http://www.liberonweb.com/asp/libro.asp?ISBN=8804282738 #
http://www.moto.it/roadbook/03.asp?EID=699
http://www.cisonostato.it/page.php?id=159
. http://www.pbase.com/chiaramonte/peloponneso
http://turismoinmoto.altervista.org/itinerari/Grecia/Peloponneso/Grecia% 20 -% 20Peloponneso.htm
http://www.thegreektravel.com/lakonia/monemvasia.html
http://www.pbase.com/nikgr/mani
http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Europe/Greece/Prefecture_of_Laconia/General_Tips-Prefecture_of_Laconia-BR-1.html
http://www.viaggiscoop.it/diari_di_viaggio/europa/Grecia/diario_di_viaggio_grecia_336.ashx
http://www.ongvirtualstore.it/venezia/vene5.asp


Start http://www.liberonweb.com/asp/libro.asp?ISBN=8804282738 #
http://www.moto.it/roadbook/03.asp?EID=699
http://www.cisonostato.it/page.php?id=159
. http://www.pbase.com/chiaramonte/peloponneso
http://turismoinmoto.altervista.org/itinerari/Grecia/Peloponneso/Grecia% 20 -% 20Peloponneso.htm
http://www.thegreektravel.com/lakonia/monemvasia.html
http://www.pbase.com/nikgr/mani
http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Europe/Greece/Prefecture_of_Laconia/General_Tips-Prefecture_of_Laconia-BR-1.html
http://www.viaggiscoop.it/diari_di_viaggio/europa/Grecia/diario_di_viaggio_grecia_336.ashx
http://www.ongvirtualstore.it/venezia/vene5.asp