Good bye Cyclades! Greece travel memories

Along the sun path.

 

Athens

I am new here in this city of which I almost do not know almost nothing. The little that is all, represented the Acropolis, dall'Agorà from Ligabetto and glues Philopappo, the narrow streets of Plaka, where around me know the views and the shops for souvenirs, give me the feeling of being at home . The sympathy that binds me to the peoples of Greece, dimly lit by the flashes of the ancient Greek fire that forged our culture, my sister makes Athens of Rome, Athens does not yet know the life that you lead, or the thoughts of its inhabitants, nor its problems of modern city. Athens is fascinating to me and at the same time as sloppy that wearing glasses at the time, but it is my friend.
I am in Syntagma Square at the moment is the scene of a demonstration. A demonstration equal to all others, as we do in the West, a long column of people progressing slowly, it stops, proceed again encouraged by the usually hyperactive personality with a speaker that addressed either to those who precedes and follows it, encouraging the companions or comrades, brothers or slogan rimati. E 'followed by a first front line and that you only see the busts and legs, the rest hidden by the banner rivendicatorio. Following the mass of support, which periodically repeats with energy slogans. Below, less compact, somewhat 'distracted and chatter comes the body of the protesters. The girls, often in hand, smiling a little 'shameful, boys more interested in them that the claims of the parade. The latest demonstrators, in order, walking a little walk 'bored almost to deny their involvement. It seems to say: I'm here by accident.
A demonstration like all the others. Except that I do not understand the slogan. A single word I left out: demokrazia. Here, in the city that was home, it is invoked as if it were absent. Perhaps the modern Athenians should do like their ancient ancestors with Nike, the Nike precisely aptera. cut the wings and force you to stay in town.
I have a few hours in front of me before taking his flight to Samos where I meet with Gino, my companion in adventure Gatteschi, now part of Gattadapelare that, without him, no longer so miaows passionately.
A stroll 'to the Plaka, eat at the usual restaurant, where there is no longer the waiter that I always recognized, even after many years, and I go back to Syntagma Square to take the Metro, which will bring me to the airport.
At sunset, I find myself scrutinizing the sea and islands from oblivion below the twin-engine that is bringing in Samos. Mikonos recognize good and the small island of Delos and the darkness leaves me to imagine Ikaria, Fourni and the more distant, Patmos.
Leaving the plane is surrounded by the smell of dried plants and beloved Mediterranean scents of holidays and freedom experienced countless times in the nature of this welcoming 'Mare Nostrum'.
A jumble of feelings just outlined, which are mixed memories of summers in Sardinia, the Aegean islands of Ponza, the bays of Corsica ....
Gino, from behind the glass, I smile when I look greets baggage.
Pytagorio is a pleasant country that embraces the set, protected by a jetty which is the continuation of the oldest, still clearly visible, from which they embarked Pythagoras to go to live in spite of it known through the many cafes and restaurants that follow each other along pier that tourism here is very much present, however, has maintained the acceptable size of the village. A hill to the acropolis, a haul for ships, a plain back for the food were the factors that determined its foundation in Mycenaean times.
Eat and go to sleep on nell'alberghetto port, formerly known by Marcus and me on a previous occasion.

Pytagorio - Patmos / Patmos - Denoussa – 39 miles

At 8 the Dolphin party non-stop for Patmos. The sea is calm, not a breath of wind, not a cloud. This makes us happy because our program is to start immediately Patmos advantage from the absence of wind from the north to go up as much as possible up to Mikonos. After we meet there with Mary, coming from Brussels and would like to be.
The Dolphin line is smooth and close the archipelago of Arki. Let us place the well-known. Our Marathi is there and we do not know when the meet again with the characters who inhabit and that, in our repeated visits have become part of our lives. The program for the cruise before us will lead us for a few years away from the Aegean part that we believe is the most affascianante. The spores will visit the north, the Calcide, Samothrace, the Dardanelles ... and then, inschallah, Istanbul. Follow, so 'the route of the Argonauts before returning along the coast of Anatolia to Kushadasi. From there to Patmos and Leros, Greece again in the land, almost at home.
Karnaio of Sozon to find, as agreements, Gatta in the water ... and no accounts payable. I at least! In fact, a mutiny timer has established a scaled-Gerlinde Gino to acquire permanent rights of use of Gattadapelare. Still fall short of an expropriation, but it is a signal, have to be careful.
Some discussions with Sozon conducted in greek by Gino involving the battery, and then part. The first idea is to go to Levitha, another call that we like because of its isolation from the contemporary world, and spend the night in the tranquility of the fjord, but then you decide for the island of Denoussa east of Paxos, further north of Levitha. In this way we gained latitude and we will benefit if tomorrow were to get up wind from the north.
Proceed almost exclusively motor and into the five in the afternoon, and darkness falls, filiamo anchor in the bay of the south-east of the island. Have already been here years ago with Marzia in a night's storm with two anchors affocate and tender to tow that revolved on top, raised by the wind This time the evening was extraordinarily calm. A huge moon in its fullness fat, rises from the sea, and illuminates our prosaic dinner.
The starry night surrounds us with the tenderness of a mother.

Denoussa - Mykonos 33 miles

There Berchère the Alarm of an old one of the rare event that gives rise not far from the coast. It 'hard to imagine the passing of that on this island and in this tiny village. None of the charges notified us a life, our daily rhythms of modern men accustomed and enslaved by the city, which has a response. We do not know if the message that we send this is the place of rhythm or melancholia. We slowly motor away listening to the cries of the old fade in the distance. The exit from the bay passing occurs between high walls because of the rock. There is little substance and Gino, a bow, indicating the spots. Along the island on the north side, where the coast falls a precipice into a sea of All Quiet. After a promising breeze wind ceases altogether while infittisce haze that prevents us to glimpse the horizon Mikonos.
We arrived at the port in time to rent the scooter and go to meet Mary who arrived from Athens by ferry in the afternoon.
As always, when we are here, let's go Take a drink in this part of Mykonos, known as' Little Venice ', where you can admire wonderful sunsets sitting at the desk of one of the small cafes along the walkway from the hill that leads to the Mill center. The country is frequented by tourists, even in this season of dying, and we, seekers of romantic corners of Greece still genuine, if not inviolable, these atmospheres anonymous' turisticheggianti 'does not like. But tomorrow we go to visit Delos and, therefore, face the presence of the invaders dori.

Delos. Mikonos - Tinos. 10 miles

Finally we are a Delos, at the center of the Cyclades, the island sacred to Apollo and Diana. Here, you should not die and should not be born, an established law to protect the sanctity of the place. It should not be landed with his boat, down the Harbor. We, therefore, took a ferry, and now we are here among the ruins of the city that was for centuries the focal point of the myth, politics and commerce of antiquity. But it is the myth that hangs on every corner, in every stone, and are among the votive statue, and that magnify the sanctity of the tiny river, now dried, a small lake filled with earth from wicked men, fearful soloist of malaria, become the low hill to the dignity of mountains. We walk again in the summer heat and bright sun of Apollo, whose presence here is a little fogged by two thousand years of Christianity.
The sea around us is a Quiet and relaxed among the rocks and islets that form together a Delos, an island full of shelter for ships. Ships in antiquity that were a safe landing place for the Pilgrims first landed, and, later, the slaves who fed the rich trade that exercised.
From the 'upstream' Cinto on which we climbed along a path, in part a Scalini, which in his wanderings through the ruins of ancient temples, close the Amphitheater, and comes, finally, on the 'top', you can enjoy a beautiful panorama ranging from a Mykonos Tinos, Siros a one Paros Naxos a feel, no need to say to each other, that what we see is all ours. We, with our boat, head to where we want, we can conquer Approdi, to anchor in front of a lonely beaches, our rates atmospheres of the places, let them Consolati by the certainty that the next call will be even more beautiful. Mare Nostrum.
The ferry called the laggards with brief shots of Siren. We board, and reached our Gattadapelare, soft mooring and head on Tinos
An Breeze Gently brings us to cross the short stretch of sea separating the islands dispute. After along for a couple of miles, the south-east of Tinos reach the port town. I feel that now is changing the setting, Tinos be if it were a 'Cycladic mainland', the first island to be conditioned by the proximity of the 'culture' town. As if I had always known that those perched on white Chora and Skala cucuzzoli their feet wet from the sea, omnipresent in all the other islands we visited, in this part of the Aegean were replaced by more prosaic CITTADINE made of anonymous case. No surprise, then, to find a different reality here, not accepted by our Animo romantic travelers now corrupted by the rarefied atmosphere of a Astypalea, a Anafi and Amorgos, not to mention Four or Karpatos and all other small islands, often deserted and forgotten in some corner of this legendary sea.
The first impact with reality bureaucratic Tinos appeared the form of a so-charge of tax collection to the port. We suspect that he boaster functions not mention, much more than merely a part of the tariff is not giving any receipt in return. But it's Prodigal information on where we can buy some things such as the reduction valve of the gas, essential for cooking now awaited the pasta. Every now and we want ..
We also know of the Mary a 'puppeteer' itinerant dichiaratasi Catalan, which runs to the islands on a sailing boat of 24 feet with his companion, when a gain on the continent that support themselves for the winter. He has an extraordinary ability to win our sympathy, so much so that dinner invite a spontaneously without any doubts come if it were an old acquaintance.
Tinos has a sacred image of the Madonna around which was built a shrine Maestoso. This icon is venerated throughout Greece and the place is considered 'the Lourdes Aegean', The church was built on top of a hill and the road, wide and straight from the promenade that leads to the front of the building, is lined by souvenir shops and religious objects. All exhibit very high candles, plastic bottles and the use of which there is clear only after seeing the tap (quite prosaic), placed in the chapel obtained under the sanctuary, from which water flows out of a holy miracle. The faithful, having small, heterogeneous containers, including some large plastic bottles, are queuing up to collect this water to use where there is clear.
On the right side of this road a rubber pad on the run since the square and the faithful serving to ease the painful path of those kneeling 300-400 meters of ascent, so the path is long.
Insperatamente find in a store Mercanzia that varies valve supply of gas that will enable us finally to test the new kitchen which I brought from Rome. There are, therefore, miracles! And without ginocchioni be gone.
Dinner, then, in this Company of Mary there is Old Acquaintances come and we promise to cook for the day for a delicious paella. We pretend to believe that knowing is a way for debt relief cadge dinner.
Then in berth. Tomorrow we go on the north to the village of Panormos (Skala) tell us that it is nice.

Tinos - Panormos. 29 miles

The weather remains good and some escape my doubts to leave the coast of Sottovento to go to sleep on the north side. However, having dubbed the Eastern Cape of Tinos that there eight miles away from it and, therefore, if you stand up strong wind path into the open would not.
Mary, our 'puppeteer', we have a vision far removed while leaving the port. There saluta waving his arms. The paella will be for another time. We can always hope for 'our' Mary, but she has already put his hands forward by declaring that it is a dish typical of Galicia.
Sail along the coast. The island of Tinos is mountainous, but its findings are not very high. Are now close to the sea and form a coastal barren with little case around which, however, the vegetation is lush. I imagine that in the past, these islands are rich in forests, then killed by man over the centuries. When we reach the western extremity of Tinos and turn the channel which separates it from Andros you hear the Venturi effect, and find some 'wind bow, but no story to be included wave annoying. Carrying a huge cross that falls fast and based on straight along the north coast, which seems lonely and jagged. Meanwhile, the sky will be cloud and back the concerns to be brought to the Island over. However if you get the Meltemi tomorrow we will have a few miles to go before we go back and bring the channel to the side of Andros Sottovento. Let off a Isolotto that closes the entrance to the bay that overlooks the village of Panormos and moored it to English on his molo.Il single country and a small and pleasant, with some tavern and a beach, not great, at the bottom of the bay. It seems quite genuine and more in line with our expectations. But the pier where we docked is parallel to the coast and does not seem very safe. The bay is open to the north and if the wind should strengthen the wave certainly lead off. A Pair of villagers confirm that it is not prudent to stop and we advise them to go and moored to a dead body which lies on the opposite side of the country in a covered position at the center of a small deserted cove. In fact, after eating at a nice taverna we decide to move the boat. Now it is dark and we target with the whiteness of a church that is on the cliffs in front, doing a careful move well off a low Fondale we saw with the light. We find the craft that indicates the dead body, but on the night that awaits us we want to be sure of its mass. Gino will dive from the boat while the water enlighten with the Flashlight. When was there and confirmed that fits the desire to spend a night on the alert disappears. We bind the courts to limit the swing a few meters around the buoy. Now we are sure that we have bad weather. The sky is illuminated continuously by Lampi away and we are Happy to have moved here who goes to sea knows what a safe mooring may be acceptable, and the boat becomes a home that welcomes you with a hug family dissolves the tension accumulated in the precariousness of a day of navigation. Tranquilli sleeping there for the immediate, but concerned about the
tomorrow.
The expected strong worsening in the morning. We must start early.

Panormos - Gavrion (Andros). 28 miles

Thundered and flashed all night. Every now and then I woke up to 'feel' the time and the flashes of light coming from the portholes illuminating the inside of the boat giving the objects size and disturbing aspects. But in this little creek we found a comfortable shelter to protect it from wind and waves and this knowledge helped me to slide back into sleep.
Now we are eager to leave and go to a shelter behind Andros. The wind is changing and starting to come from the north. We have to leave the berth as soon as possible before it becomes too impetuous. Last night, in darkness, we have not seen anything Let's look around at the bottom there is a small beach where a few goats graze silent. The small church that was the goal last night is there just a few meters from the sea and from us. In front of the open sea. A morose as the Aegean sky, a way to appear different from the pagan sun of the day to Delos.
Just outside the bay, in fact, put a 'face of the mainsail and the waves already well formed. Do not dare to play the genoa because ultimately gave signs of unreliability in rewind. Better, therefore, not to risk ending up with the sail to the shore locked in a time of maneuver in the wind.
Gattadapelare governs well, salt and slip back hard in the palm of raising big waves splashing water. Within minutes we are to cross the channel between Andros and Tinos, where the wind enters with momentum. The coast of Andros, the channel is more secure and direct there resisting the temptation to get down with the wind and get the garden right away. The decision is manifestly right because shortly after we find a rough sea and navigation becomes quiet. At Andros, then, the sea is calm and the only angry gusts that occasionally descend from the mountains do shiver for a few seconds, giving him the appearance of the skin of a scaly dragon.
Proceed a little deviate from the coast to accommodate gusts less vertically; we reef the mainsail and some 'engine e. .. the boat goes. But bad weather is looming there. In mid-morning starts to rain and soon the rain becomes a deluge. Around us the sea is bubbling and smoke. Protected by our waxed (my is a providential gift of my 'historical' crew) enjoy the weather deal excited by this unusual experience. The rain lasts for a long time, longer when we are already ahead of our arrival. Gavrio is a small country located in a protected cove that is his fortune. In fact, is the main port and dock here several times a day the ferry from Rafina on the north coast of Attica, and the other islands. We approach with caution because the water of the sea is the land of color and do not understand if it depends on the seabed or another. Then understand that the storm is just poured into the sea has a large amount of mud and debris. The bay has changed in color and float on the branches and leaves carried by the rain. The pier is that we reach the desert, except for a single sailboat whose owner to ask what is the bottom. It reassures us and please help tonneggiare his boat in a position suitable for the wind began to blow strong hours by land. It does not rain anymore, but the sky remained cloudy and the wind is unpleasant. After the hot sun of autumn is past time to come arrogance in our days. We have reports of destruction and victims of the storm of today which has been l 'Evia and the mainland.
The knowledge that we have done is called Aristotelis, is married with un'italiana, but speaks greek. His mother-in-law runs an Italian restaurant that he shows us, not far from us. But we prefer to eat at the Greek and we find a cozy tavern.
The country no smiles, a double row of houses on the road alignment that runs along the pier, some rough coffee shops for a small community, a petrol pump and two or three taverns complete unpretentious setting. One can see immediately that it is not a place to vacation, but a simple point.
After dinner we go to an internet search bar tell us that not far from the country, but the links are skipped for the time and we can not know neither the weather nor the news business is waiting for Gino. They say that tomorrow will still be disrupted and sea force eight.
Port in the wind agitates the sea split in small waves and it does boil around the boat. Lying in our bunks we asleep with the feeling that he was still at sea, but with the awareness of safe stay healthy as we are tied with two peaks and two sleepers.

Gavrio

Not even thinking about it, today, to return to sea. The weather is bad, even if it does not rain. The wind, very intense, continues to sommuovere water port. Take a car rental and we are going to explore the island. The road in many places runs high on the south and shows us a scenario of sea that occasionally lights up in the sun when the clouds, galloping in the sky, tear through the mountains. The gusts of wind on furniture design mezzelune dark, similar to blades of halberds, they run off to the gradually diminishing in force, scattering nell'azzurro. A sailboat, scaled by the distance, running, heels, going up the island, aimed at Gavrio. Perhaps this morning we could also leave us, but we have retained the fear of what we experienced in the channel between el'Eubea Andros, one of the most windy Aegean.
We are heading to the capital of the same name, on the other side facing north. The distance is not much and the road full of curves, crossing some small village first to review the sea on this side, it's stormy. Andros layer-country does not have a port, but only a distant pier breakwater outside and just warm. The country, in this semi-season, is not that attractive a few ideas and I vaguely remember S. Teresa di Gallura small. Here lunch before resuming the path of return, crossing the mountains, is shorter. An unfortunate choice because after a few km we enter the clouds and visibility is reduced to a few meters. In addition, the road is very narrow, barely enough for two cars appear. On our right sense, without seeing, the overhang that will be with us for almost the entire journey. I am forced to drive in the middle of the track to follow the white line of the center, the only sure reference and are concerned to find a machine to the contrary. The storm yesterday dragged stones and earth on the course. A fruit box appears and warns us that a little later a large part of the road and landslides downstream. Thank you in me that he wanted to so notify the other of danger. An act of civil liability that makes on those who performed. Escaped the danger has raised the tension and no one speaks anymore. When, finally, we think that you understand what the word means eternity that emerge from this fog and thereby take a breathe freely.
Upon arrival at the port are two other boats. Make us feel a little 'cowards for not having to face the sea today, but the experience in the mountains has no were less exciting.
Exchange chat with the newcomers. Despite predictions to give the next few days, very bad time yet they have to arrive in Athens tomorrow to return the boat to the company charter. And we? We're undecided on what to do. If we leave tomorrow we expect 30 miles of heavy Andros el'Eubea, then, away, the island would be a relatively calm sea, which would allow us to get to the storage of Skala Oropu days, one day before, namely, the departure of our aircraft respectively for Rome and Brussels.
We sleep over and then decide, but we know that the alternative would be to set sail after tomorrow, but with bad weather, and 60 miles burden of heavy crossing.
'Quasi quasi mi faccio a shampoo' sang Giorgio Gaber years ago in a day of waiting to be apathetic liveliest moments. Dall'inattività and while forced to go to dinner Mary and I improvise a heroic moment of bodily hygiene. A wash every now and head can do well.
The sea around the Gatta bubbling last night under the pressure of the wind, but sleep comes early and stifles the fatigue accumulated in the day on the ground.

Gavrio - Gavrio.

Despite all the other parties are and this makes us feel a little 'faint-hearted. What breed of seafarers us if there are rintanati the port with a force 7? And then the Burian is short. We passed the Straits shelter. So we start. I look at the faces of my friends to discover traces of fear, but I can not see, nor I am leaving my leak, but I am convinced the concerns hatching under the guise of safety wear.
The first three to walk four miles in a sea agitated by a wind path that tears the water by waves and pushes us in the eye. Let's go upwind of large, nearly a loose, with only the mainsail reef and some 'motor warranty. It is not just for sailors pure, but we do not care. We just want to pass the channel between Andros el'Eubea that the white, threatening, a little later. La Gatta behaves very well and showed all his ability 'sea' of which the models are famous Alpa. Boat so we do not do more; high performance sailing were sacrificed and the capacity to achieve comfort the modern 'cans' in the kitchen and several bathrooms (call them' stop 'as the correct nautical term for them would seem offensive ) attract the attention of the 'charter' as the ability to keep the sea. Our Gattadapelare, in port, is always, among others, the smallest at equal length 'overall', but to me it looks like a sleek fox goffi among bears. Perhaps the love for this old and neglected boat affects my opinion, but who cares, the emotion that I get is the reality that, although subjective, contains for me the truth. As we develop and we approach the cross-strait the sea is becoming more white foam and salt and Gattadapelare down safe and impetuous waves ever more impressive. The gaze in the route above us that we are following and coupled to the eastern tip dell'Eubea, where the sea seems less agitated. This is still a few miles and soon we will be indoors. What happens then we had expected, but always feared, a failure to the cooling of the engine which sends him into overheating. Begins to emerge from the smoke hatch. After the first moment of panic we find that the cause lies in the impeller which is gone. And we have to respect! We can only turn off the engine and do un'abbattuta to go back. The boat takes hours in the wind almost garden and the little row genoas open and fast and without wave contrary to the Bay Gravio. When, shortly after, we are to begin his cross a series of tacks to trace the wind, which now comes to us from the earth, and into port. But with the little sail to the shore and with the intensity of the wind we can not earn a lot of water because we do not have much room to maneuver the turns are necessarily frequent, and each of them to lose speed. Thus, the last one hundred meters to make them the engine, suffering with him for fear of damage.
Finally at berth. As usual, after having secured the boat to the pier, takes over that moment of relaxation pleased to loosen the tension of the day. Who does not love you navigate ask what a pleasure it is to suffer for hours struggling against nature and to enjoy the comfort of a protected port. Exactly! I do not know anyone, but is' too strong '.
A series of phone calls tells us that the impeller suited to our Nanni Kubota-is found only in Athens and Gino would be prepared to leave tomorrow to go to buy.
But time is short, there is the day after the flight for back home and is too risky to get groped storage on the coast of Attica in a day of sailing. This is approximately 60 miles to travel in adverse weather conditions with the possibility not to conclude the transfer. So the Gattadapelare will remain here in Gavrio until you have the opportunity to return. We turn then to Aristotelis because we keep the boat and, more importantly, controls the water in bilge. At least once a week, the bilge should be emptied. Aristotelis reassures us that he who will take care of the boat, and for how little we know, gives us the impression of being a reliable person.

October 13. Rafina-Andros-Transfer
The ferry the 10 steps away from the pier and salute our Gattadapelare firmly secured to the dock with rope and sleepers and well protected with all the fenders we have. We do not know when we will return, will depend on the demands of work and the weather, but, nevertheless, this has to happen soon because we Aristotelis said, even in port, in winter, under certain conditions. High seas may rise
Gino insisted in Brussels to bring the tender that needs repair.
Outside there is heavy seas and the ferry has to do a couple of edges before reaching the coast of Evia protection. The rest of the journey is obvious: Rafina, buses, airport info. I find the place on the flight today and I leave my friends, who, however, will leave tomorrow.
This cruise is' was a different from usual, but now that we reflect, whenever I have the same feeling. It 'another of the beautiful things of the boat, does not ever addictive ..

Roma - Gavrio

E 'spent over a month since we left the boat moored at dock of Gavrio under the tutelage of our greek friend. Today I am here alone, waiting for Gino to arrive tomorrow with 10 of the ferry from Rafina. By Gino we waited all this time because the weather, since we left in October, have always been very bad. Snowfall has also, I said Aristotelis.
This time, as the portal www.poseidon.gr should have three days of time acceptable. The boat is in order, bound like a sausage from Aristotelis, who was not willing to take risks. The bilge is dry than ever, the batteries are charged. So our friend took very seriously the task that was entrusted. Sdebitarsi for the invitation, together with his wife and daughter to a delicious dinner in the tavern in the country more attractive. Laying the foundations for a business together in the Cyclades, and, l 'I like the idea. I think I know why this pleasure, it is perhaps a way to make my places of interest including the workplace.

Gavrio - Marmari (Eubea island) 28 miles

The boat is ready to sail immediately when Gino arrives load of tender (not repaired). The day is presented with suitable weather conditions to overcome the close and put away the coast dell'Eubea. Tomorrow is expected to decline, but in the channel between Euboea and the coast of 'Attica not expect trouble. So we start. Last night I replaced the impeller consumed with a new bought in Fiumicino and the engine is efficient and reliable back. Aristotelis salute, which did not want any compensation for the guard who made the boat, and prendiamoli wide. It 'a beautiful sunny day, the sea is smooth and we enjoy this crossing late autumn with the pleasure of its exceptionality. We left the city job and existence for only a few hours. Tomorrow evening we will be at home again, but now we are here to eat in the warmth and good friends to talk about things serious and playful things. We have to shore the mainsail alone collecting the slight wind to help the engine speed to give us a less noisy. Towards the early afternoon, when it already foreshadows the early autumn twilight, we are in sight of our destination, the port of Marmari. The wind is a little 'more tense and announced the change of time for tomorrow. At the pier there is no one, only we and two vessels. For the fifth time since Gattadapelare is in Greece, we are asked to pay the port charges. This is the highest fee required to now, eight euros. What concerns me is that these demands have become more frequent in recent times, which leaves me thinking that this paradise for boaters is approaching to purgatory.
We go in early berth in the country there is no attraction in this season. The only person with whom we spoke was the corpulent officer Harbor.
I wake up an hour to be met and hear the wind whistling between the weakly shrouds. I wake up again when the whistle is stronger. I think the day that awaits us tomorrow, we need to go 30 miles and 16 must be at the airport, but first we must identify the Carnaio where we leave the boat. Gino swears that it exists and is located approximately one mile west of town. So I spend the night imagining the dormiveglia, immobilized by the night in my
berth, tempestuous seas and boats adrift.

Marmari - Skala Oropou. 30 miles

We start very soon and bruises among a sea route to be malicious and short waves lashing. Although we shelter the boat heeled to windward progresses. Along this way for about fifteen miles Evia facing a strong current against us forward to three or four knots, with sail and motor. It seems to me incredible that in a few hours I will be in Rome and sleep in my bed warm and welcoming, but now I have around me the solitude of the unusual sea.
A pleasingly unpleasant feeling of adventure and fear of the unknown ancestral to exalted by the greyness of the sky and from the awareness of the novelty of this off-season navigation.
It seems to me that the costs when the sea is less agitated and placed in that direction having before us the plain of Marathon. And in fact, contrary to expectations, departing from the apparent protection offered from Euboea, the coast of Attica under the sea calm and, indeed, to the hours of eleven o'clock everything stops the wind and enter into a field of calm. I imagined the Attic coast, and much more flat and is inhabited mountainous, almost untouched, with few houses and with several beaches and overall very pleasant.
At noon berths at the head of the pier Oropou Skala. We have already prepared our bags and arranged the boat for the winter rest. With a taxi reach the Carnaio, we take our agreements and let the beloved Gatta keys in the hands of this unknown 'carnaiolo'.
Let the town from the seafront and with a presumptuous so different from 'our' Cycladic and reach the airport in Venizelos. Tonight everyone sleep in his bed. We will miss the roll cullante Aegean and tomorrow we miss the Cyclades, and remains rocky, steep and white. The next cruise of Gattadapelare calls are directed toward different, more green, the Sporades. But we feel that at the end of our stroll back to 'home', a Marathi, in Patos, a Lipsi ....
So the next!


Cyclades


Spolpati stones from the sea,
Whale bones
shipwrecked in the wind.

Salty skin of the face!
Sweat of the sea!

White teeth
lumps of stone on
smile at Febo.

Smile blue.
Smile of the Aegean.


From "Fragments of the mirror"
Dedicated to my daughter, Marzia, companion adventures.
March 1999