On board diary. Cyclades islands

Among myths and sea...

 

May 13, 2003 - Rome-Athens
E 'spent nearly a year since I left on his flooded Gattadapelare to Patmos in the trees of karnaio of Sozon. Today begins the journey back toward our boat and the adventure of wind and sea in which we will drag.
Arrival in Athens in the early hours of the afternoon, too late to take the 15.30 ferry to Patmos.
I take accommodation at the Attalos in the city center, the edge of Plaka.
In the evening, after eating at the foot of the edge dell'Agorà, I go walking in the alleys of the Plaka, the Acropolis rising up to reach the focal point of our Western culture that is the Areopagus. I seem to know this city forever.

May 14-Patmos-Athens
I spend the morning walking at the foot of me and I decide to go back to the esplanade of the Parthenon and the museum. Unfortunately, for many years continue the restoration and you can not see the monuments free of scaffolding. Only ERETTEO ended. The delightful little temple of Athena Nike was dismantled completely and are less impressive Propylaia hidden by scaffolding .. The city view from above, is a construction site. It seems impossible that everything will be ready for the next Olympics.
I board at a time of Patmos that reached at midnight. The owner of the modest but pleasant inn that already know, the Captain's, I am waiting for. Assegnatami The room looks over the harbor. The sea is within walking distance, I feel the slight sigh and slip into sleep.

May 15. Patmos.
He anni.Un birthday especially in the sun and the greenery of this beautiful island. It is not difficult to be optimistic so that Aegean dall'azzurro surrounded domino from the top of Chora in the quiet atmosphere of Patmos.
Top of maintenance work and inspection of equipment. I see now that I have for a long and not be able to complete the works to navigate safely. Towards sunset I go a little on the shore to sit on the pebbles and lose me in the gentle lapping waves.

May 16 - Patmos
Continue the work. I have to hire a motorbike and in the afternoon I go to the beach Agrolivari. There is almost no one, but the water is already warm and you can do the first pleasant bathrooms. Along the road of Carnaio I met George. George is an old fisherman who speaks Italian learned in childhood, when it was part of the Dodecanese. Every day, twice a day, a sea salt from Chora relying contorted to an old stick, and it is not clear who the most knotty of the two. A character that is part of the landscape and steep streets lined with blue bluebells and yellow daisies.


May 17. Patmos.
Move into the car in warm and relaxing is liberating. To go from the port of Skala boat yard needs to climb dozens of hairpin bends. As you go up towards the houses of Chora biancheggianti the coast is explained in inlets, bays and islets that make this island one of the most beautiful of Greece. Reached the village of Chora, dominated dall'austera massive monastery-fortress, go down the other side towards the coast as the most evocative and lonely.
Continue work on Gattadapelare. The avvolgifiocco is blocked, the water pump fails, the sail-still does not run, the batteries are exhausted. In short, the boat is stopped for a year and I keep the muzzle. E 'offense and does not want to cooperate.
When no more can I go again on the shore listening to the sea.
At the hotel, sitting on the balcony, my drink ouzo and watch the arrival and departure of the ferry.
The arrival of a ship always brings with it a sense of joyful expectation, while the departure is pervaded by melancholy abandonment.

May 18. Patmos
Work to the boat all day. Tonight come the usual "girls", and Elke Gerlinde. I would be ready for launch tomorrow, immediately after the arrival of Gino.
Patmos today lives a day of international glory: the six months ended chaired by Greece and a large ship has moved here the representatives of the European Parliament with wives and children. A small tavern was in charge of organizing a dinner and set up on the pier un'ottantina of the VIP tables. Are simply filled with a white tablecloths and red, but their modesty enhances the importance of the event.
At midnight, finally, come the "girls".

May 19. Patmos.
Gino also arrives today. Pending accompany the ladies on the beach of Agrolivari. Since we have only one car is forced to shuttle between the town and marina. A job!
15.30 to land the co-skipper Gino said Rockman. After a year of absence we are all happy to be together again, ready for good sailing.
Gino's arrival marks the moment of launch. By taxi to carry the baggage of Carnaio Sozon and we put Gattadapelare sea. We have problems with the electrical contacts to the engine, but eventually head to Skala where we expect Elke and Gerlinde But now it's too late to sail on to Marathi and stay asleep at Patmos. The ladies at the Captain's boat and us.

May 20. Patmos-Marathi. 6 miles
For one reason or another fail to give their moorings in the late morning. We direct a Marathi. In fact, an island that is part of the small islands of Arki, which for
we became the symbol of the reconquest of the naturalness and simplicity of life which we aspire in our small town existence. The rhythms of the day are not scanned by hours but by the bleating of goats and fowls singing. Time will slip on the skin, without bringing with it anxiety. The rush gives way to a sweet laziness and you can enjoy the luxury of a little bored '.
After rounding the islet that closes the Straits to the south between Arki and Marathi and play the trumpet to warn that we are back Michalis. We immediately recognize from a distance and invites us to dock directly to Moletto in front of his tavern. An honor reserved only for friends. Followed by greetings and hugs and plenty of ouzo poured from a large demijohn .. In bay there are a couple of boats, but crews do not fall to the ground. One of them, a beautiful sloop (estimate is 80 feet long) painted in dark blue, is the manufacturer of greek brandy Metaxa,. We do serve a drink from Michalis, just to be able to say that a small part of that boat is also ours. Dinner with lobster and wine and to mention some steps sirtaki under canopy of reeds that shelters us from the cool of the evening. No other team was down to earth. We are alone, we at Gattadapelare, the Michelis-pirate tavern, the chef's sister and brother. The island is all ours. Then the "girls" go to sleep in the inn and Michalis Gino and I in the boat. Finally enjoy the rocking sea of boring under the hull. While we listen to the song of a late cock sleeping sleepless us calm.

May 21. Marathi
We take the day comfortably. Since we are in a boat the quality of our life is really improved. We do breakfast with free-range eggs fried in the pan, and later at a time is part of the "Blue Lagoon", the inlet on the south-west of Arki. The name is well deserved. The water here is exceptionally clear and the sandy bottom reflects the color of the sky. There is only one boat, with the German flag, but we have been accustomed in the past not to be the only trad visitors and a boat from us as a single fleet. Surely even the occupants the feeling is the same because we dried apostrophe, complaining that he had anchored too close to them. But it is not true, however, we ignore them because they do not appreciate the expressions of intolerance.
Advanced in the afternoon sailed towards the main bay at the bottom of which there are few houses of "capital" Arki, In comparison to dirimpettaia Marathi seems like a stop metropoli.Senza invert the route and head west towards the hosting of Michalis and his tavern.
Sirtaki the dancing and drinking ouzo.

May 22. Lipsi Marathi-5 miles.
We start with a nice wind hauled direct to Lipsi. Gattadapelare gently glides on a smooth sea behind the small islands of this island away from mass tourism. Lipsi is the island of the nymph Calypso, the one you fall for him, and Ulysses with him for seven years. Let us assume that Ulysses has remained very willingly because, apart from the fact that the nymphs were not particularly bad and Calipso was a beautiful piece of nymph, the island from the sea seems very nice and inviting. After rounding the eastern tip and soon opens before us the bay that overlooks the small town itself. There is a very long pier with dock space for English. We choose the side that seems more appropriate taking into account what could be the wind direction when we decide to leave tomorrow. If you rotate a Meltemi we push against the pier and we would create difficulties to come off. A bet with ourselves and our status of "wolves of the sea." Behind us, of course, moored to English, there is an impeccable English boat. But so impeccable that the comparison seems Gattadapelare an old cart of the sea. Appears. But with a surge of pride, after a moment of disesteem, we return to daily: "a boat much surf" in the hands of "real" sailors. Also comes a sail Scandinavian launching a top of Gino all'attracco come to help, how to use the pier kindly. Gino the league by making a perfect, (saying), gass of lover, but does not exceed the strict examination of the skipper .. Recently on the ground, these discards and draws the node. It seems also to have shaken his head and mumbled something to himself and himself. Self-esteem of Gino, already shaken by the nickname with which he is known in the Aegean (Rocksman!), Is at very low levels. Gerlinde to console us for dinner at a taverna where we need an hour of seabream and grandiose size. Thanks Gerlinde. And you're not becoming when you have submitted the bill!


May 23. Lipsi-Patmos. 6 miles.
The night has passed and we have quite won the bet. The wind has turned. We do a walk through the country, small and cute, with a large church and some pleasing squares. In this season there is no tourism, but the summer came several hundred guests including many Italians. Some have bought or built homes. Overall the place is still immune from real estate speculation, but who knows as yet.
Facciamo un po 'spending in the late morning, starting at a time of Patmos. This evening the ladies, pardon, the "girls" (Gino insisted to flatter so) board for Athens. The wind is weak, but favorable, and after a bit we put the hood and have lunch. We did not hurry. When moored in the afternoon Skala begins to rain. A light rain and freddina. The weather promises to be beautiful tomorrow. Sin, we would go to Levitha.
Dinner is usually at a restaurant where a good cook lamb on the spit.
All'una arrived, and quickly again, the ferry to Piraeus. Gino and I remain alone in greeting the other half of the crew that back.

24 maggio.Patmos-Levitha. 20 miles.
We wake up with a cloudy sky, but with little wind. Stavros, our friend the fisherman, is happy to meet again. We left for him in Marathi, a bottle of Nebbiolo that the Marzia and I had promised two years ago. Assures us that today there will be calm. He says his calm, in Italian. Who knows, maybe it's an international term, like those used in music.
We leave and head for this lonely island, we know where to find in any case a safe landing. Probably you will meet the three brothers the only home owners, and at the same time, tavern on the island. Gino for this is unknown. For me it is already linked to memories of the other two times we have been with Marzia. Once there we were blocked by bad weather and exploring until you reach the remains of which dominate un'acropoli 's access to the fjord.
Towards sunset dubbed the small headland to the south-west closes the entrance to this narrow inlet. It is well protected, except from the west, but from that side rarely get strong winds. The island has very high relief and the Meltemi blowing can also vigorous in this arm of the sea, but without raising wave. Today, however, the wind does not come from the north. The whole day was marked by clouds storms that we have looked with suspicion, but you are always on the horizon kept Vento, weak, from the west. Upon arrival we are greeted by the largest of the brothers, Stavros (he is called so!), Who approaches Gattadapelare to help anchor the dead bodies that have placed this year. We do all the maneuvering under sail by refusing the offer of help, not for pride, but only to test our skills.
The mooring fee is now and this innovation to me the contents of modernism in a place I've ever seen out of the consumer patterns of our lives There are four other boats in the harbor. If they are distant from each other and shy, almost annoy the casual gathering on this strip of land in the sea greek forgotten.
Set in the evening. Darkness is the appropriate place with the safety of those who are aware that they had no obstacles. No lights, except for those based in the tiny boats, which are often confused with the stars.

How many stars! Those who imagine if every other star in the sky We're not accustomed, we city dwellers of this planet, a lot of pure heaven. They embarrassed by their testimony dell'immenso large as opposed to our infinitesimal small. We recognize some constellations and show us the mutually pointing the finger in their direction. We are the one behind the other for the vague path that leads to the tavern-house of the three brothers ranging ahead and behind the flashlight to illuminate the steps of both. On the point of view we choose the stone on which rest our feet. We are concentrated in the proceeding, but feel the smallness of the island and its distance from what we are accustomed to call civilization. Proceed in silence in the silence of this special night and the perfume of dry Mediterranean plants that are the same inhaled by ancient peoples of the sea, from egei kinds of ions and dori, by the Romans, the Venetians, the Turks and many others sought refuge for a quiet night nell'insenatura of this almost unknown. Finally we come to the building. We were preceded by a German crew available to socialize just that, however, shortly after we left alone under the canopy of boughs until dinner.
We listen to the few noises coming from the house, from which nobody comes out. A few words exchanged with our host that we prepare dinner alleviates the feeling of loneliness that feel out of the zone, weakly illuminated, where we eat.
The return to the boat takes place in darkness. The torch has been exhausted and descend cautiously towards the shore. Now that we have no light without using the eyes are adapted to receive the outlines of things in the light of the starry sky. The foot became more agile and drop you off safely.
In pushing the boat at sea an explosion of sparks lit the water that move. Millions of small marine life, the noctiluche, the creators of this show. We air in handfuls of sand, which is also fluorescent, which fall into the sea gives us a fleeting vision of another place starry sky at our feet. How astonished children repeat the gesture again and again until you get used to the game.
Quiet sleep in the cozy womb of our boat takes us back to the size
less disturbing of our human smallness, closing the vastness of the universe.

May 25. Levite-Amorgos (Katapola). 34 miles.
The weak wind, always from the west, carrying clouds sfioccate that over time give way to vast areas of blue. We left later after the other boats that are scattered in different directions. So are the fleeting meetings sea. In the evening the boats are concentrated in the bays, in the docks, ports. Come from other bays, docks and other ports along the routes converged. The occupants share a gesture of greeting in passing along to those who already anchored. Later, all'immancabile tavern, people meet and are somewhat familiar ', and we exchange some information on routes and on the islands visited and lets you fall asleep in the boat. In the morning following the gestures are repeated with a smile more because of that knowledge and each takes its course, without constraints. Free, each of advancing in their blue. The sails depart from each other until it was again just for hours or days. And this loneliness that only the great outdoors can make, whether water or sand or rocks is the reason why we start. It 'a real and precious solitude which we yearn in the frenzy of everyday life, but at the bottom of the soul, after all, makes us vaguely restless. This is why every encounter is greeted and welcomed, especially if it is fleeting. Sailing and motor sailing as the wind remains weak throughout the day. Leaving on our right the island of Kinos there is already the outline of Amorgos. The coast north-east of the island is high and deep inlets accept where we enter to enjoy the secluded beauty. The water is full of deep blue. Not a house, but only the far scampanellio of goats that wander on the coast. Centuries of work arms in vain have tried to spietrare arid and steep fields by aligning countless stones along the borders. There is nothing that can better witness to the poverty of life of those peasants of this vast network of boundaries that enclose the land poor and effort that today no one loves and works.
Behind a headland, finally, appears on the bottom of the bay which is the landing, Katapola. The village has no true port since the same conformation dell'insenatura is sufficient to protect the boats which dock at the pier along the tract homes and shops and taverns.
There are a dozen sloop. Amorgos is not frequented by many tourists, there came a ship of the line, does not have much to offer to those who seek what we are accustomed to having at home. A few kinds of essential shops, no souvenirs, no rooms to be fun. Only a few restaurants, a coffee some modest pensions. The site is genuine, with its squares shaded by some trees, simple tables, chairs painted in a waiting customer.
Before dinner we walk on lonely streets to discover corners. The chalky white house serves as the background colors of the doors and windows. The Greeks have a deep sense of color and can give small items to the gift of simple beauty and purity. A vase, a chair vividly painted blue in front of a lime transcend their physical substance to sublimate the level of a work of art.
The Greek flag has stolen the colors of this land and this sea of white and blue to make their own colors. Looking fly in the wind you see in the Cyclades and the Aegean, the sea foam biancheggiante, the cross of its small churches scattered everywhere.
Dinner, Gino and I, in a small tavern on the pier with other teams, making the program for tomorrow. Go with the other side of the scooter to visit the famous monastery. I already have been there with Marzia, but I am pleased to return again to enjoy the beauty of the landscape that opens to every curve of the road and leave me wondering again from this unusual construction ..

May 26. Amorgos (Katapola)-Antikaros. 10 miles
We rent the mopeds, modern donkeys, which are the means of transportation and economic link between widespread these islands.
We climbed to the north until you reach the village of Chora, which tightens around the acropolis. Of the temple that was not dominated anything, His place was occupied by a small church. Here, too, repeats the usual vision of alleys, white houses, Agora, bright colors of small objects. The square root of the country, also shaded by a couple of small trees, facing a room of a few square meters, which today serves as a court. The location is too small to contain all of the defendants and some waiting outside leaving, sitting on a wall, waiting to be called by the judge. Stands out among all of the figure, well dressed in suits and ties, with a sheaf of papers in his hand, his other in the very role. We do not know what it is, but the tone of the questions and answers and the attitude of these follow a common everywhere ..
Going uphill you will reach the watershed ridge in front of us and opens the superb scenery of the southern coast of the island. The day began with cloudy skies are now clear. The gaze sweeps up to the free cinerina shape of the island of Santorini. To our left, crushed against the wall to the peak of the mountain, the monastery Hosoviotissa. White stands out on the red rock. The common demand of all who see it for the first time this original construction is the force which keeps glued to the wall. It seems a gigantic white patella tenaciously attached to the reef when the wave reflux. I know the history of the foundation. An icon of Our Lady, escaped the iconoclastic fury of the eighth century flew so far and it rests like a butterfly on the wall of the mountain. A pastor, for this case, he was nailed to the readiness of the rock. Was built around it a little at a time the monastery. Icon, hammer and nails are kept in a chapel inside. And 'the second time I come here this time and also gives us an attendant of sweets and a mild liqueur made by monks.
We hasten to return to the boat because we want to sail at noon to reach the island of Antikaros. Un po 'd' purchases for the caboose and away! is part, happy to let us push back the wind. Who's going to live the sea state of mind described in a note of the 70's song: Do not wait to land, but has already arrived just want to share.
To the west of the island of Antikaros, a few dozen meters away, so as to form a narrow channel with little depth, there is a small island with a small beach.
E 'that we carry them with the tender after Gattadapelare anchored at the center of the channel. Across from Amorgos was quiet, with low wind abeam.
The first encounter with this island, now inhabited only by a fisherman, took place three years ago when we came there, Marzia and I, looking for a French misanthropy that had built the house. The house and found the evidence of a loss for years.
The house is always there, a little 'more obsolete and abandoned. A melancholic vision in flat light of the afternoon advanced. While lying on the sand, me into the good feeling to have the whole Aegean reserved for me, Gino reach home beyond the channel to collect, too, the atmosphere of twilight romance issued by it ..
In the channel play in the tide and wind can be mixed and the swing of the boat gives us some thought. We decided, before going into berth, to a second yet afforcata to ensure a more tranquillo.Ciononostante sleeping I wake up a couple of times to check the distance from the rocky shores and, as always, I have the feeling that they are much closer to not appear during the day.

May 27-Mikonos Antikaros-49 miles.
Let Antikaros with the usual weather. Morning cloudy and low wind from the south-west. Then the cloud thins out and the sun with us for the rest of the day. We prefer a slightly longer route doppiando the island clockwise rather than pass through the channel where the bottom is not guaranteed. We must reach Mykonos in the afternoon because we have an appointment with a new passenger. Titti the cousin arrives from Rome to resume contact with Gattadapelare. Eight years ago, at the beginning of the journey that led us into this sea of pregnant myths, legends and history, she left us to return to Capri and Rome. Since then, our boat was, for her, a dream to live again.
Proceed and sail and motor between large and small islands. On our right scorre Karos, Skinuossa Koufonisia and farther, let Iraklia left, in front of us the transition between Paros, which is located to the left and straight to Naxos. Speed is 7-8 knots and we look forward to get to Mykonos to four in the afternoon.
The wind and weak from the third quadrant, facilitates our making. Many other conditions we would have lived if, as normally occurs in the Aegean, the spirit of the north wind,
The channel between the islands of Paros and Naxos, with the axis oriented north-south, it would be very hard to trace.
Cross between these islands in this sea is always influenced by the Meltemi, the wind that blows from the north almost every day from morning to night. In July and August and is particularly intense in the channels between the Cyclades can reach 40 knots, raising a sea short and hard. Every time you go down to the latitude you need to keep in mind that you must go back to lengthen the path of two or three times. For this reason our boat raids take place in May or June or late September. But today we are lucky and do not miss the appointment with Titti.
At 16:30 we enter the port of Mykonos where we come back away from master. We discover that in the meantime there was a marina at about 4 kilometers further north out of town.
In reality this is not a marina, but a simple pier that runs from north to south parallel to the coast. Between different berths filando boats anchor at the bow, slightly north of our position. We would be able to put even more in the direction of prevailing winds to be sure it can not plow if you blow hard, but we do not want to cross our chain with those of other boats to our left.
We trust in the persistence of these weather conditions, even if they lead us nuvolaglia and a few drops of rain.
You exchange phone calls with Titti here and reach with arms and baggage.
After days spent away from the crowds, looking for a life closer to nature and captivated by the flow of quiet time to immerse ourselves in the life of Myconos annoys and excites us at the same time. With scooter rental we made contact with a local traffic intense and dangerous because of the size of roads, traveled by car and constantly camions. You go to look for a place to dine. The village, also in mid season is crowded with tourists and residents. The squares and narrow streets are a unique outdoor restaurant where s' meets a wide variety of characters, and normal chat. There fun to observe them, feeling quite alien to this way of life in Greece that we have the charm of its history and its myths, where the memory of the deeds of ancient people is not compatible with the insipienza this life. A short distance from here is the island of Delos, the center of the Cyclades, birthplace of Apollo and his sister Diana, the ancient sacred island where it was forbidden to be born and die. The mythology here is breathed, brought by the west wind, but I doubt that there are many nostrils able to capture the scent, as it is confused with the smell of fried fish that comes out of many restaurant kitchens. But every so often, and for a short time, we also want.

May 28-Mikonos.
Today it's raining lightly. The wind that for all these days came from the southern quadrant, and has changed considerably reinforced. Now comes from the north and parallel to the pier where we are moored. We still, as expected, urged the sides, it begins to plow. We are forced together with two other boats in Germany and we move to English side downwind. There is little place and approach to one of two German boats, kindly allow us to tie in to it.
With the advance of the day the cloud thins out and take advantage to get back in town to shop. We need a tank of gas and fresh vegetables. Titti remains to rest in a boat.
The hours pass without us news.
At sunset, we are watching the sun set in a infocato sky while a majestic three-masted sailing ship to slowly cross the horizon. We are sitting at a cafe in the most picturesque in the country, where houses seem to rise from the sea. One unforgettable scene and played on all the tourist brochures.

May 29. Mykonos-Paros. 20 miles.
It rains again today, weakly. The wind remained steady and the sea appears smooth. Or stay here to wait for the other crew members, Marzia, and Alfredo, from Rome, or we move on to Naousa 'island of Paros. We decide by majority vote. Two were against my no. I fear that, down the wind, we can not return to Mykonos for days to receive Marzia and Alfredo.
We start with the wind abeam and rough seas heading on Delos. We want to gain water, before betting on Paros so as not to take the wind full astern. It ranks well, but once the final route we are subjected to an unpleasant oscillation caused by large waves at the garden. Titti dorme below.
The bay, on the bottom of which lies the village of Naousa, is soon reached. Do not even try to seek a local place, which we know is not very large, and we carry on the leeward side just north-west dell'insenatura protected by high hills. Here the sea is calm, but down from the powerful gusts that advise us of the still main appennellare adding a second yet. Now we are calm and we carry on the ground with the tender.

May 30-Naousa
We wake up with the sun and a nice Meltemi that the hill behind us which we repaired. At anchor, together with us, there are five other boats in an Italian flag is flying. We need to find a ride in the car to arrive in the country and rent a scooter.
We charge a farmer on his van on the way and tells Gino, (who claims to understand at least thirty percent of greek) because the Greek cuisine is superior to that of other countries use to eat the steak with the marmalade. I think with our pens and arrabbiata all'abbacchio scottadito that kind ilot never tasted.
With motorini we go in Parikia, the capital of Paros and the main port to book passage for the ship to Titti Mikonos. As expected, the wind is to stop us from going back tomorrow.
Spend the afternoon on the beach at Monastiri (this is the name of the place in front of which is at anchor Gattadapelare) Monastiri In addition to a small church-monastery, there is a small, friendly, swimming pool, a little 'bar and a little' restaurant. In this season is little known and stay lying on the beach in peace is much appreciated by us three. In the evening you go to the country.
Naousa is a delightful country living around its harbor. On this face many taverns and restaurants where promiscuity with the fishermen, who play on the boats quietly small maintenance work, we inspire serenity and benevolence towards humanity. Although there is no crowding, there are, however, other tourists. Eat on a square near the pier and we go back along the coast to Monastiri .. It's cold and we look forward to draw on our bunks under the covers ..
The night was very windy.





May 31. Naousa.
Today arrive in Mykonos and Marzia Alfredo. Titti 11 hours to leave us by bus to reach the port of Parikia where you embark the ferry to meet Alfredo. We, me and Gino, lazily, on Monastiri.
We have nothing to do but observe with binoculars nudist clinging on the rocks while they're lying in the sun on the beach, which closes the inlet to the west.
23 to go with a scooter to take Marzia Parioka and then dinner Naousa.
In the evening car is cold and protect us with the old, but excellent, the system of the newspaper under his shirt in front of the chest The road from the village up to Monastiri runs along the sea crossing areas of warm air or cold depending on whether the prevailing the influence of the mass of water or campaign. Even the smells are changing continuously from that issued by the rocky shore emerged at low tide the discharge of Mediterranean herbs already forget the winter rains. The way it carries out in twenty minutes during which the cloud of winged beasts will affect the face. Before getting to the bar-establishment meets a modest storage of boats that could ultimately accommodate Gattadapelare. We left the tender to shore and with that we head toward our boat where there is shadow in the dark of night

June 1. Naousa.
Gino leaves us today for a few days. Demands of work already scheduled, the draw in Brussels. Accompany him in a car to Parikia 10.30 and its distance from the ferry pier in the direction of Piraeus. See you in a week with Mary for more adventures of the sea with a new crew!
And Alfredo Di Titti remained little known in Mykonos. Should reach us, but we are all too lazy to take action. We, too, Marzia, and I do not feel the urge to take off. Outside there is still a rough sea, and we ashamed to say, we did not want fatigue to the rigging. So we hire a deck chair and umbrella and we stretch to the sun and read and nap. So spend your day in the luxury of a dolce far niente.
Late in the afternoon you go to the country to take pictures, take a drink and dine at the usual nice tavern on the harbor. Then he walks a little 'cold in the alleys of Naousa. From a tiny shop leaves a sweet music. We do know the dealer who speaks to us like the singer, and we recommend some CDs. Tomorrow there will be a list.
We return by boat to bed suffering from the cold during the journey.

June 2. Naousa.
Still feel like doing nothing. Beach, deck chairs, baths, nap. Even in this day spends healthy laziness. Luxury that can bore a '!

June 3. Paros (Naousa)-Sifnos. 26 miles
Today is a beautiful day with little wind. Not really ideal for sailing, but certainly less tiring to deal with the gusts of days. We plan to go to Sifnos which is 26 miles from us, to the south-west. Then, wind permitting, go back to Mykonos to meet old and new companions in the boat.
So we are leaving, Marzia and I, in late morning, a motor. Along the west coast of Paros we leave on our left in front of the island Parikia scene of a fatal wreck occurred three years ago. A ferry line from Piraeus, it crashed into inattention to the crew. There were several deaths and the fact that he made a stir because of inattention was the TV broadcast of a major football match.
The island of Sifnos we know nothing except the fact that it is a great destination for tourism. For us this is nice. If we decide where to land. Choose on the paper because Pharos village protected by a deep inlet open to the west, and sheltered from the Meltemi.
In the afternoon advanced caliamo anchor before the village.
We made a good choice. The village consists of about twenty houses, two taverns, a coffee and a beautiful secluded beach.
At the wheel there are two other boats. At dinner we are counting, we dodge the tourists of tourists, and we met them in the eight trattoria "pan", but infested with thousands of small beetles that are flying around the light wave and, while stirring, ends up in our dishes. With a feeling of compassion for the tractors that you see deprived of their unique collections, we abandon the place to go farther in the tavern that seems immune dall'infestazione.
We are told that tomorrow evening there will be a feast of the patron saint of Sifnos with the arrival by sea, to a small monastery located on the promontory that closes the bay to the south-west, a sacred icon of Our Lady. An important holiday in remembrance of the miracle of saving the island from an infestation of grasshoppers. In short, we think that this island has always had serious problems entomological.


June 4. Sifnos.
Today we went to explore the island. With a public bus route, we have forty miles of curves touching all the villages of Sifnos. The most important thing is to Apollonia, a large, white, country, however, that we have not found any way attractive. Interesting is the landscape of this island characterized by endless terraces, but now scarcely cultivated. You see on the open-circular aie on which thresh the grain with the old system of poaching of animals. We have already had occasion to see this custom elsewhere peasant still be, as would have described in Virgil Georgiche. The Venetians introduced there, and not only to Sifnos, the dovecotes, construction of 6-8 meters in height made of many triangular openings for nests of host birds. There are many, some of which then acquired the original residential use. We also some modest purchases of pottery, typical of this island from time antichisssimi.
Let's go back in the early afternoon to Pharos to prepare the feast of the patron saint. There is already excitement. Groups of faithful walked along the coast on a path that in three to four kilometers will lead to the monastery. We go by boat with our tender and calling the bluff at the foot of the church. There is also a small pier on which await the religious and civil authorities. Four bearded pope, standing on the steps leading to the pier, ranks second in importance charge. They are decorated paraments of use. The mayor, with the family, some navy officers and a couple of gendarmes preceding them in the provision of ceremonial, but are lower. In the stretch of sea front cross boats and boats. The wait lasts half an hour until, from behind the promontory on which the church is built, breaks a big ferry to explain sirens. E 'soon became clear that the ferry is too big to pull over, and in fact a barge, to those used for sightseeing, close to the stern where it was down the pontoon and where the committee expects to accompany the sacred icon. Because of the wind through the maneuver is repeated several times while the boats and ferries are powered rockets, and smoke colored barrels to emphasize the festive event. Finally, the icon is loaded and transported to the pier, accepted by the band. Many people also came from neighboring islands and it is difficult to reach the small square where the church, meanwhile, the four litanies pope tune around the icon. The psalmody is, to our ears, ungainly, far dall'armoniosità of Gregorian chant and lasts hours and hours. Satisfied the curiosity of the spirit we see on a beach, just off a few taverns that are certainly able to satisfy the body. Make friends with Heidi and Heinz, two German tourists with whom we had already exchanged friendly greetings of yesterday evening, and eat together at the same table comparing each other's impressions of the place and people.
Return to rowing, having finished the mixture of the outboard. But it is a nice paddle in the calm sea, under the vault of heaven, while the voices of the pope salmodianti depart in the dark of night.
Gattadapelare us for a peaceful rest.

June 5 Sifnos-Paros. 26 miles.
It is again with the intention of going to Mykonos where Gino arrives tomorrow, returning from his break to work, accompanied by Mary. As a guest of the next Gattadapelare we heard from Gino tell who is good company and have good skills marinate. We are curious to know, finally. Titti Di and Alfredo know that you are enjoying your holiday in Mykonos.
Just outside the inlet Pharos encounter rough seas and winds. Even if the conditions are not hard, we have reservations direct to our goal, doubts that convert into firm decision to return to Naousa when we are joined by a text message to Gino from Brussels that predicts sea force 5 sull'Egeo
But the fear does not occur. We arrive at our shelter of Paros with discrete weather. The rest of the day to spend the usual beach of Monastiri and later we find a passage where Naousa for dinner at our favorite taverna.
Return with the motor cold.

June 6. Paros
Also today the weather is beautiful and we have no program. Gino and Mary waiting lying under umbrellas in a dolcefarniente. So spend the hours until our reach. Arriving in car and know, finally, Mary. Yes, it is certainly a nice purchase for Gattadapelare. Maria speaks Spanish, Italian in us, we pretend to understand perfectly. Familiar and immediately end the day at the usual country inn on the pier.

7 giugno.Paros.
Today it is windy, the wind enters the bay of Naousa and raises small waves edged with foam, which we call ochette jargon. But to protect the high costs we receive only modest gusts. Day sad and happy and full of novelty, this one. There's a change.
At March 11, beginning at Parikia, and while she climbs the ferry from the same descending Constantin.
A brief exchange of greetings to meet at the foot of the ladder (Greek ferries are fast in the land and embark passengers) while mesto and smile on the face of Marzia, glimpsed from behind the portholes dall'agitarsi chased away our arms , the radiant face of Constantin-Cocò shines through the sea of desire.
Marzia achieve Titti and Alfredo in Mikonos to leave all then to Rome. In Athens, at the airport, cross Isabella and Marcus arriving in Paros last night at 23. Organize all this series of coincidences has required considerable work in the weeks that preceded the beginning of this cruise.
Pending Isabella and Marcus still lazing on deck chairs by the sea in the background while our boat wheel, too slowly, sull'ancora under the influence of delicate wind gusts. .
This year we can not say that I have sailed hard. There is no spray several days of salt on the face of change in lively maneuvers and wind in your hair, but we recognize that when we had the opportunity we have overcome the laziness and were still attached to our ..
When Isabella and Marcus come to Naousa are welcome by Maria, in an apartment for rent. After dinner in our usual cheerfulness tavern we are giving appointment for tomorrow at the beach of Monastiri.

June 8. Paros.
The presence of Cocò you hear the first morning with a thud that in water. It 'so you know, and when the boat is with us. A dip and a aaaah! jouissance. Gino, however, as the dumb, and is dedicated to swimming as a dutiful exercise. Goes towards the rocks of the shore where, of course, look first to the nudist back. Mary and I remain on board to prepare breakfast. Isabella arrives at 10 with the boat that ferries tourists from Naousa a Monastiri. For several weeks it is waiting for a future small hub that will come in January and we have not recommended to arrive by car. Later it also Marcus, all the while we are waiting on the beach deck chair while sipping on delicious drinks. A life not ever die!
A day still Sibari. Sun on the skin and short dry. Greek salad and retzina.
Dinner at the taverna and programs for the future. We want to return to Antikaros and spend the night at wheel in complete solitude. The weather promises beautiful and moderate wind

June 9. Paros-Naxos 10 miles.
The weather is beautiful and the wind favorable and moderate. Then we start! Aliam anchor.
First we go on where we Naousa diesel, water, and get cambusa Isabella and Marcus. Then turn the bow towards the mouth of the bay and leave it out.
On our route there are a number of islets and rocks and dried before you find in the channel between Paros and Naxos. The wind is now stronger and more the wave formed. Up to this moment we heard that we sent Cocò that he had learned from a skipper on the "candy" eschatological. A foolproof method for not obstruct the discharge process. But now that the sea is felt and we danced Gattadapelare above a certain silence and a yawn tell us that someone has arrived to the moment of truth. Sea sickness is an experience that sooner or later all those who surf or have had. Nelson suffered frequently and it certainly Ulysses was not immune. Indeed, Ulysses must have suffered much since Neptune not spared any storm just discovered on a boat on the route to Ithaca.
The wind comes from hours and proceed straight to the large slack. We are forced to reef structure to maintain a less unpleasant. Increasingly entering the channel increases the pressure of wind and waves, but the question is short and within minutes we find ourselves in front of the entrance of the port of Chora .. E 'a port rather large and there are several boats. Are now free and a place with the right orientation with respect to the wind so the docking maneuver succeeds perfectly. Do good in the eyes of the willing that the pier waiting to help at berth.
At the conclusion of this crossing applauded for its excellent Isabella for whom this was his first experience of sailing. Mary was at the fame told by Gino.
At first impression the city looks interesting. A Venetian castle overlooking from what was the ancient acropolis of the long pier on which face a row of cafes and restaurants. Not far away, to the west, is silhouetted against the sky, the big box of the remains of the Temple of Dionysus.
Some of us are in the country, others remain in the well to familiarize yourself with the neighbors of the boat. To our left is a 33 foot sloop armed obstinate. The skipper, a ripe and smiling English proves ready to socialize. To the right a high iron jawl with the German flag has a couple of families with an indefinite number of children who enter and leave simultaneously from the walk-d'uomo E 'difficult to keep the account. Remind me of those animals of the desert, the mangoose, always excited to move around their burrows dug in the ground.
Constantin is bored. To entrust the task to verify that the winch is locked and I happy, began with a work of dismantling the tools of that board, however, are not adequate and must be sought near all'organizzatissimo English. He too is happy to be helpful. I too am happy that finally someone makes a little 'maintenance Gattadapelare.
In the evening you can stroll through the streets of Chora looking for a nice restaurant. There are only so many and we have plenty to choose one. At the table do the program for tomorrow. If the wind set to descend Antikaros, but I am puzzled why it would be risky to put in the conditions of having to go back quickly against the wind and to be punctual to the moment of our home.
June 10. Naxos.
Wind and rough seas. One is at berth. Approved the proposal to make a trip within the island. And so we leave, two for motor direct to Apirantos, a small village, they say, very nice.
Leaving the coast we go up with some bends on a vast and undulating plateau that smells of herbs of the islands. A warm scent that falls through the nostrils to the heart and stirs vague memories of holidays spent in the sun somewhere in the Mediterranean. Scents of hay, oleander, the fox tails, myrtle and rosemary are mixed to form the smell of the islands.
Turn a narrow road following the tentative signs that indicate the site of an ancient temple. Hence the campaign has remained the same for centuries. There are agricultural facilities, vineyards, olive groves and large plots of arable land, but small and campicelli confused, scattered trees, ravines and reeds that betray resurgences water stains on the bottom of oleanders of dry streams, dry walls to delimit irregular properties. Yet the varied forms of this area express the sense of the fertility of nature that takes no rafters, but calm and strong. There seems to feel the presence of Pan and nymphs shyly hiding among the reeds and the green bushes that frame the scattered pools of water and maternal and authoritative presence is Demeter, goddess of fertility of the fields. So should you felt when the old people here, on a small hill a temple erected in his honor. Today it remains only a few stones remodeled over the centuries to adapt to the new construction needs of the soul, but despite attempts to Christianize, they are still loaded with a force of the pagan deity absorbed by the surrounding countryside, and that restores, the radiating sheaves of grain spread out to dry, the occasional olive trees, almond trees and vines.
We visit the ruins and take the journey. Eat in an inn, and then reach Apirantos. We were expecting a more interesting town. Apart from a series of small cafes which are repeated along the main street of the village, deserted at this season, there seems that there is nothing more attractive to. We remain short and return to our base in Chora.
Continuing the work of restoring the functionality of the winch from Cocò with the kind assistance of English. With unconditional approval of Isabella and enthusiastic participation of other abundant spaghetti concludes the day.

June 11. Naxos
The white mare in the gusts that, at the center of the channel seem intense. No boat left the mooring and we stay on the ground. It 'a good opportunity to continue the maintenance work, near the boat held a festicciola of birthday wishes for the operator of another boat moored nearby. He tied the ropes of colored balloons and the return from a walk in the country concerned, we all sang, in their own language, "happy birthday for you" accompanied by her guitar.
Isabella and Marcus returned to Paros by ferry as we remain a stroll in the country.
At sunset we go sull'isolotto now connected to the mainland by a short artificial isthmus, where the temple erected to Dionysus. According to the legend seems that Theseus, returning from Crete with Ariadne who had helped to find the exit from the labyrinth, is disaffection her and leave, weeping, on this island. It was found by the god Dionysus that he married.
The temple was never brought to completion. Today it remains the plant and a huge square marble arch, through which one can admire the sunset in the background of the coast of Paros.
A superb performance followed by dozens of tourists who gather every night in a sort of pagan worship .. The buzz of voices of the audience fades away the hard way that it changes on the horizon on fire. When the last wriggle of light goes off you hear a sigh of admiration for the representation offered by Phoebus followed by scalpiccio feet away that is.
A dinner in the well, spaghetti with tuna unconditional approval of all ..

June 12. Naxos-Paros 10 miles.
Today we must return. Although apparently the sea appears rough and the wind is intense, we can not stay here another day. Maria and Gino want to visit Mykonos together and I have to turn the boat wing and prepare it for storage. So, we start taking in and ready to spray. Instead come to the shelter of Paros we are almost forced to turn the engine. Reach the tip of the bay of Naousa where the wave is high, and when he had dubbed his head, it pushes the stern. E 'un'andatura unpleasant and some people will suffer. Mary, at the helm, will handle well in sending Gattadapelare plane. The boat rows well and soon we are inside the bay where head for the usual juggling and maneuvering behind only to sail, just to keep us in operation.
In the evening take a Gattadapelare Naousa (insperatamente place where we find the pier sopraflutto) to meet Isabella and Marcus and dine together for the last time.


June 13 Paros.
Hello Mary, Gino hello. The Hispanic crew members leave us to spend a day in Mykonos, before returning home,
The next year, friends. Thanks for the warm company, we were fine with you.
We ourselves, Isabella, Constantin, Marcus and I to watch on the end of this holiday. We return to Monastiri for one last day of the beach .. Tomorrow aleremo the boat and, at different times, will arrive in Athens.
The day spent in idle waiting for its conclusion. Prepare the dinner on board and in the romantic setting of the bay bathed by the sea of myths and the rays of the moon, hear the silent night of sweet notes of Chopin and other sounds of nature.

June 14. Paros-Athens.
Isabella and Marcus depart by ferry in the morning. Constantin and I follow the work of towing systems that occur with quite primitive, but correct. After preparing the boat for the long rest that awaits us we take a taxi from Parikia and we embark on Athens. We arrive early afternoon. Here we find the survivors of the crew and with them touring around the narrow streets of Plaka, eat at the usual tourist inn, climb the Acropolis and the 'Areopagus see the city below us. Like other times in the past. A ritual now where we can not give up because
For the first time feel hot.


June 15. Athens-Rome-Zurich
Constantin leave and the other asleep in a hotel and, at dawn on me boarding a jet of the Swiss.
A little direct flight, but thanks to my sponsors, for free.
Goodbye sailors. Until the next!