Paros and Naxos: Two Aegean pearls

By Luca, Sabrina and Federico

 

Passed less than four months since the end of the journey in that of Saint Martin and Anguilla, two extraordinary splinters thrown to the ground, along with many others, in the deep blue of the Caribbean Sea to form, as if by magic, the Lesser Antilles.
I therefore spent a little over one hundred days since then, including a crazy unusually rainy summer, and now we are ready to leave in search of the sun, towards the Mediterranean region in some ways similar. A handful of islands scattered in the Aegean Sea, form the archipelago of the Cyclades ... and among the many, even this time, we have two choices: Paros and Naxos.
The days prior to departure were unusually quiet: no air attacks or disasters in the world and, especially, health appears to assist in a positive way.
Are 6:00 am when the house echoed to the sound of the radio and still quite sleepy, we organize the final preparations. In short we made the 6:45 and arriving at the inevitable grandparents take us to accompany us at Bologna.
At 6:52 we leave the house, carried in the camper, surrounded by an unusual summer fog dissolves shortly after when, in Faenza, we enter into a motorway. The traffic is pretty intense, given the time and the rest this is a public critic, given the expected mass return from vacation ... Instead we are leaving and, fortunately, does not meet code along the route, so at 7:30 we are in front of the "Marconi in Bologna, where we are now becoming regular.
We welcome grandparents and cross the gate in its tour with the cart full of bags and suitcases to the above ... Federico, more radiant than ever. Our plane, a charter, it seems to be on time, so embark luggage, we stop to take a coffee, go beyond the check-in and we put ourselves waiting at the door number thirteen.
The morale is high, and above all the enthusiasm of a small office to give us the right to face the hardships of starting, so the time passes quickly and soon after the 9:00 past the last barrier that divided us from the Boeing 737 of Macedonian Airlines. Climb on board and at 9:57, the flight from Mk 2366 off the ground with destination island of Mykonos, then continue from where a ferry will take us, finally, on Paros.
Let us share and climb above the clouds flying over the Apennine ridge directly south. At some point we notice a large lake, the Trasimeno likely, then the clouds s'infittiscono, take over and prevent us from seeing the earth, which reappears later when, just refresh by a providential snack, we see below us the Ionian coast of Calabria, who will soon leave us behind to tackle over the stretch of sea which separates Italy from Greece. In short propaggini first appear in Greek and shot, one after another, almost every parade Ionian Islands: Cephalonia, Ithaca, Lefkada and Zakynthos, then flying over the Peloponnese and enter the Aegean Sea to begin immediately after, the descent towards Mykonos.
Synchronize clocks on local time (one more than Italy) at 13:01 and landed on the small Cycladic island. This opens the door and go out in the open air: there is the sun, but the strong Meltemi blows, a troublesome wind that in summer, you often hear in these parts. Withdraw, safe, baggage and the airport is the representative of Planet Earth (our tour operator for this trip), which lets us get on a bus by which we arrive at the port.
Dell'aliscafo The departure is scheduled for 15:00: waiting after all bearable. Less bearable was having to learn to fall, from Naxos, with one day in advance to return, because the connections between the transfers and the flight, but we were aware of the possibility and, although disappointed, we accepted without much protest.
The wind blows really strong and, as we manage to get away, the sand flies c'infastidisce not least, while patiently waiting for the hour of departure, with front agl'occhi the town of Mykonos, that perhaps we expected more scenic than it is in reality, at least from this distance.
Shortly after 15:00 is the hydrofoil dock and that, given the poor condition of the sea within the port, is struggling to stay attached to the pier for us to climb, but then, in the open sea, row away fairly smooth and I take this opportunity to doze off a little ', since when, a few minutes after 16:00, we come finally to Paros.
The island, the third in order of magnitude of the Cyclades (195 square kilometers), is in circulation in the heart of the archipelago and its capital, Parikia, where land is located in the center of the west coast and within a deep bay, where the wind blows, but with more restraint than the infernal gusts of Mykonos.
Even here we find the representative of Planet Earth and again with the help of a coach reach the Paros Bay Hotel, located a short distance, in "windy place" on a small rocky promontory, where we are staying for the next seven nights.
We require a rental car, which will take us around 19:00, then we deliver the keys to room number 59: a small (very small) but comfortable.
Wear costumes and go on the edges of the pool to spend some 'time, so Frederick is a bathroom, but very short because the wind that blows no truce, no calls to stay in the water and the sun, now close to the line' horizon, no longer able to offer its contribution to heat. In fact it is almost evening and I go to set aside the car: a shiny red Daewoo Matiz (targato EMZ 1853), which, later, we reach Parikia in search of a place where you can dine, given that our hotel provides accommodation in single bed and breakfast.
GIROS and consume soulaki, two simple dishes of Greek cuisine, which we show to accept judging by the ardor with which cleared the dishes, then take a stroll in the city center, very distinctive, with narrow streets lined with shops and houses whitewashed with lime, Finally, after having fun for a while 'Federico in a small playground, we return to Paros Bay and we can finally rest after the long and tiring day ... while the wind continues, Undaunted, blowing ... hopefully just calm down soon.

The alarm clock rings at 7:30, but out of the windows, beyond the scuroni our room, we can hear the wind whistling petulant, which invites us to let us raise some concern with, so we end up going to breakfast around 9:00 Then, without haste, starting at the edge of our Matiz, the discovery of the island.
We stop in Parikia to do some 'spending, then follow the coast road that runs due south, but almost immediately leave the turning inward to climb the first hill. E 'so that we meet, by chance, the scenic monastery Christou Dassous, partly built recently, and we take this opportunity to visit it.
Its classic Cycladic architecture, replete with domes and walls painted lime, sull'arido stands magisterially sull'azzurro surrounding landscape and sky, so shoot some photos and then come back to follow the road that, after an infinite number of curves and bumps, comes to the small valley Petaloudes.
The area is the most luxuriant and rich water of the island and is known because, in summer, is populated by a host of butterflies (butterflies to be exact), which in some cases completely covering the surrounding vegetation. We are now at the end of the season but, in several places the butterflies, which are nocturnal and therefore are almost always poses are really numerous. The site is located in an unusual spot and intricatissima green, which they forward some rough trails, the little that he enjoys to travel non-stop ... and it proves to be a beautiful and interesting experience.
Let us return to self and begin to descend toward the sea, but without too many pretensions: the wind is strong and I do not know if we can find a place sufficiently repaired. We try to look for along the south coast, where there are perhaps more likely, and reach the village of Aliki, then continue along a dirt road to the beach Faranga.
The small parking lot nearby is full, obviously many others have had our own idea, and, in fact, here the wind blows with less intensity, though the beach is not the best we can wait, but we have and there we stop.
It 'almost noon, and with Federico, I go exploring on the right of the beach: more than a small rocky promontory discover two more beaches, more beautiful and repaired first, then let's call Sabrina, move the "base camp" in the smallest of two inlets and immediately take a bath. The water is warm and beautiful, even if, due to the bottom, not much stands out, especially if you still have the reflexes negl'occhi sea of Anguilla, which, however, we must try to forget, at least for the next two weeks.
Lunch and stay to enjoy the beach Faranga, perhaps one of the few sheltered on the island, but later the wind rises further in intensity and is also disturb us in this place: the grains of sand splashing away at full speed and bite on leather ... let it go in the water to look for some 'respite, but we can not stay there for as long as we return to the beach to target us ... It is a pity, because the place was worthy of being lived in a different way. Around 18:00, however, the wind slows down his race and the sun, you start to slow down, with its warm light enhances the colors and highlights the beauty dell'insenatura. We look around and, objectively, we can be satisfied with the performance, on which, however, soon set, inexorable, the curtain of night ... then rearranged all our stuff and, with calm, we return to Paros Bay.
Let's take a shower this evening, more than ever necessary to remove all the sand that we are wearing, then go out for dinner, while Frederick seems to acknowledge the first symptoms of a cold ... We are terrified by the idea that we can ill because of the wind, and it is perhaps for this reason that, distracted by the situation, trying to park, another car collision slightly, ironically Italian!
I go down, together with the driver to assess the damage: fortunately nothing serious, so she caviamo by exchanging some harsh look, then to each their own way.
Eating fish dinner in a taverna, and then do a walk through the old town of Parikia, which never ceases to amaze and at each step allows us to discover new angles characteristic. We also see the "Church of the one hundred gates" (which we will visit in more depth with the light of day), then go back to ... while the wind, "I miss to say," continues to blow with disarming obstinacy.

The unmistakable hiss you hear is the wind, which invites us to emerge out of the sheets, in addition, when we open the window, we can not help but notice that a large Nuvolone, stationed on the center of the island, incupisce further landscape, already bright because the intense fog.
Despite everything we take courage and, after breakfast, depart to the north of the island, Parikia and reach beyond the village of Naoussa, lying on the bottom of a large bay where, in 1770, was moored to the Turkish fleet, which was attacked by Russian . In those days, Naoussa was the largest village of Paros, but after the battle was Parikia to take over.
Park your car and on foot, we discover degl'angoli most characteristic of the country, starting with the port, delicious, with the typical boats of fishermen and taverns all around displaying, hanging, long rows of polyps, while the narrow alleys paved with lime and the inevitable white churches, sometimes dominated by classic turquoise domes ... Cycladic very many pictures, where, with few, we dive, spending a short amount of time really nice, and then go back to your start, this time in search of a beach as far as possible, sheltered from the wind.
We follow the road that runs along the bay of Naoussa, in the westernmost part, and we reach the beach Kolybithres, the most famous island of Paros. In reality it is not a single beach, but a series of sandy coves intercalated by large granite boulders eroded and smoothed by the wind, vaguely reminiscent of the conformations rocky Gallura in Sardinia.
Dramatically is a beautiful beach, there is only say, more water is transparent and the gusts of wind is bearable. What, however, to be really bothersome is the presence of a swimming pool which deals, in practice, every inch, so that we can scarcely find the necessary space to support our stuff. Nonetheless, we remain, however, for the rest of the day, because the place deserves all the attention the case.
We are relatively far from bagnasciuga, so, with Frederick, I go exploring along the coast: "climb" the rock and go down to see all the other bays, but we do not find anywhere free umbrellas and sunbeds, then go back to square one, give us a bath and then have lunch.
All in all you are good and, in the early afternoon, the wind seems to slow down its course, but just raising the temperature perceived and bonds, therefore, to go into the water to look cool. So pleasantly spend the rest of the afternoon, until it is time to return to Paros Bay.
That small strip of land, towards the west, where you will find our hotel (we can not help but see this!) Is probably one of the most exposed of the fact there the wind blows still, indeed, more Unfortunately back later to blow with some intensity over the region and when we go to dinner in a pizzeria on the port of Parikia, we have to cover because it is really cool with him the only t-shirt ... Damn! ... "Now just Eolo! ... This is certainly your kingdom, but hears the prayers of three ordinary mortals who ask only to be able to enjoy their holiday time, indeed, you go on vacation and takes away, please from b. .. " ... Therefore, at some point, I wanted to scream, but so is useless ... better go to bed and continue to hope for good fortune.

The "prayer" addressed to the God of the winds has not had the desired effects as well, as usual, the sound of the alarm is not the desire to take up and let's have breakfast far beyond 9:00.
Around 10:00, by car, leave the hotel and walk the short stretch of road that divides us from Parikia. Our intentions are, in fact, those visiting the capital with the light of day.
Parking near the center and, above all, we stop to see the most historically significant monument: the "Church of the one hundred gates" (Ekatontapyliani, in greek), which indeed it has, including windows, "only" ninety-nine. Fortunately, since, according to legend, the discovery of the hundredth door announcing the end of the world (or, as a more optimistic, the return to Istanbul to Greece).
The religious building, the first in order of importance of the Cyclades, dates back in its original nucleus, the sixth century, while the one you visit today is a large complex consisting of three adjacent buildings: the Basilica, in the shape of a Greek cross dedicated to Our Lady, the church smallest and intimate Aghios Nikolaos and the Baptistery. The garden, however, seems an archaeological site, with capitals and remnants of statues stacked here and there. The whole complex is also closed by a white wall and severe, a little 'convent, which stands as a barrier between the church and the square outside. It meticulously visit every corner, then go out and start walking through the alleys of the old town.
Along the way we encounter the characteristic angles and churches, the dome typically Cycladic, like that of SS. Helen and Constantine, built at the top of the Kastro, the old Venetian fortress, which are some curious remnants of walls, built with the famous marble of Paros, appear as a mosaic of marble Byzantine, butts of columns and pediments coming probably from the ancient temples of Apollo and Demeter in the area.
E 'stata una visita really full of the interest, which also has shown Federico accept, as he was busy taking pictures with his new machine, and almost without realizing it we had to run the clock well over noon.
Let's go back to recover the small playground, we had forgotten in the room, and starting at the usual search for a beach sheltered from the wind. We follow the road that follows the coastline until the far northern tip of the bay of Parikia and arrive at the beach Krios, which has nothing exceptional, but it is nice and, above all, is not beaten by those infernal gusts of wind.
We do a bath and then have lunch, while in the parade before us, one after the other, the numerous ferries that dock in the capital, coming from many different ports of the Aegean.
Later, Richard and I, we reach, on foot, the tip itself, where there is a church dome, of course, turquoise, then return to "base", and the small is at play with a baby greek .. . not understand a word, but the games with the sand are a kind of universal language, which does not require translation. The odd couple, though, was short-lived and after a while, unfortunately, the friend improvised forth, instead we remain almost at 19:00, then, calmly, we return to Paros Bay and we prepare to go out for dinner .
Truly an original dinner that will grant you this evening, seated at a table along the streets of Parikia, a melon (melon in English), which in reality was a watermelon (water-melon), but that we would be wrong to order, emptied pulp and then filled with fruit and ice cream, on which Frederick threw himself headlong, leaving us, practically, only the "crumbs", then two grilled corn we consume spensieratamente walking through the center ... its a good dinner! In the meantime, hear, hear, the wind has almost stopped and, once returned to the hotel, almost does not seem real, lying in our beds, not to hear more quell'odioso whistle, thus, more relaxed and happy we reach soon the world of dreams.

Eolo seems to have finally pulled the wind and when we open the window we are meeting only a slight breeze and pleasant way, and loads more motivated than usual, let's have breakfast, then after spending some routine, we leave for the south of ' island.
Reach, near the tiny airport of Paros, the town of Pound, where we embark on a ferry in a few minutes by boat, landed us sull'isolotto of Andiparos along just 11 kilometers (an area of approximately 35 square kilometers), the only inhabited island of the mini, which stretches south-west of Paros. The nine hundred inhabitants live, almost everyone in the village (of the same name of the island), from which we start to explore the area.
In this case we go south, following the road that runs along the coast, then turn toward the center of the island and go up the mountains to visit the Spileo Stalaktition, a cave known since antiquity for its calcareous concretions. He is currently well-lit and it goes through a scale in concrete, but it is not always so. It was, in fact, one of the first to be visited by the pioneers of tourism greek, including Lord Byron and King Otto of Greece, who were calarono with the aid of a rope, among other things behaving as vandals and leaving the incised their signature on the stalactites.
After they did so many others, and the concretions are now, unfortunately, nearly all death, but the place is equally charming and down right on the bottom, to about eighty meters deep respect for the entrance, along 355 all the rough steps that s'inoltrano. It also appears to be an adventure for the little fun that now near leaving, they say sorry that the visit has already ended.
We go out in the open air and descend from the mountains in search of a beach on the western side of the island, at Agios Georgios, a small and remote collection of houses situated on a low stretch of coast overlooking the island of Despotiko, but the place does not satisfy us and we return on our steps in the side.
Find a beach, one of Soros, but we continue along a dirt road to the southernmost tip of Andiparos to give up shortly after when it becomes impractical for our Matiz ... Balneari speaking, until now, the island was a little disappointing, plus the sky was cloudy and the sun is almost gone.
Back and we stop at the beach of Soros, with a shoreline of boulders and, all things considered, pretty, even beautiful view from above, with a water transparency of exception, the best view until now ... so give us a bath and then have lunch.
In the afternoon quell'invitante crystal clear water and the almost total absence of wind invite us, finally, to bring out the air mattress, with whom we do another bath, and play, for the happiness of small, then we put ourselves to rest on the drapes. .. now is really good, the sky is clear again and the sun burns the skin nicely.
Around 18:00 we bundle, we are approaching the ferry and an hour later we Paros Bay Hotel.
We go out for dinner and we reach Naoussa, in fact we are going to eat fish in a small restaurant, its characteristic small port ... and so do two shrimp and a red-snapper cooked on the grill, very good, but too expensive to be in Greece (seventy euros). Not matter in the end of the day we leave, and then usually spend a lot less.
Satisfied the palate do a walk through the streets of the center, then back to Parikia and then to the hotel, thus concluding a beautiful day.

Calm: do not blow a breath of wind and the weather is wonderful when we get up ready to face, with good prospects, another stop on our itinerary.
Come on, this time towards the middle of the road that goes all curves, from Parikia, in the direction of a rough and mountainous, dominated by Mount Profitis Ilias (771 m), the highest peak of Paros.
Immediately after the village of Marathi we stop to see the old marble quarries, famous Hellenistic period to be the place of origin of the blocks with which it was built the Parthenon in Athens, but at the same time provided the material for other famous works, including the Venus of Milo, now in the Louvre in Paris.
Struggling a little 'to find them, but in the end we find the steep tunnel that descends in the heart of the mountain, and, with Richard, I venture a few meters inside, from where comes the sun: in addition to us in the gallery continues total darkness and the cool supersede the hellish hot outside. E 'suggestive to think of those blocks of marble, made immortal by history and, in absolute silence, we seem almost to see them pass, slowly, before our eyes, between the imaginary shouts of the miners, who knows extracts and hoisted the methods by such a depth, but the illusion is short and all disappear when we return to fresh air and reality.
With a jump in the virtual time of a few thousand years to climb, again on board of our Matiz and reach the nearby village of Lefkes, clinging to the slopes of Mount Profitis Ilias.
The center, which we walk, it is distinctive, but not those of Parikia and Naoussa. Along its narrow streets stand out some churches, and more on the outskirts, the remains of a Byzantine street that once connected to the neighboring Lefkes Marpissa.
At the edge of the path are some ripe figs, which like a lot to Frederick, and take advantage to make a small snack, then go back to self and follow the road today, we come to Marpissa.
The village is dominated by high ground on which the church of Agios Antonios, who intend to visit, but the narrow ribbon of asphalt that climbs the hill ends too soon and the heat not traipsing down to us all the way to the top so desist, especially since it is already past noon, and we put ourselves in search of a beach and a po 'of refreshment.
Stand almost all the beaches of south-east coast and we are going to stop in Golden Beach, a long sandy beach famous to surfers around the world, but today the wind blows and it is all very well for us. It is not particularly scenic, but the water is very beautiful, so we just dived and, at length, we take a relax in the delightful fluid.
Lunch while in the west, toward the center of the island, they accumulate different clouds that obscure in the early afternoon, unfortunately, the sun, led inevitably in that direction. Meanwhile, along with Federico, build a castle ... but the clouds, those spiteful, just seem anchored in the center of Paros ... and time passes inexorably.
Nothing to do: stay in the shade for almost the whole afternoon, until almost 19:00, when, like it or not, there we go, but then, on the way back, from a height, we see a beautiful sunset on the coast indented at our feet and on Andiparos in the distance.
For dinner we return to Parikia, where we have a small account open two evenings ago, by mistake, we eat a melon filled with fruit and ice cream ... good for charity, it was a watermelon! Thus we return to the same place and at the second attempt, at last we can have dinner with a tasty water-melon, followed by the usual grilled cobs munch strolling through the center ... fantastic! Then, satisfied and happy, we return to Paros Bay to go to bed, so as not to get up, tomorrow morning, with eyes still full of sleep, as is happening every day for some 'time now.

E 'on the last day of the month and the last turn to Paros. There is a sun and a slight breeze blows: the best we can ask in anticipation of a day spent at sea.
We start with our Matiz towards Naoussa, the reach and beyond following the road that runs along the coast towards the north-eastern tip of the island.
Our intentions are to go to the beach of Lager, but the only way that there seems to be arriving in private ownership, it is closed by a gate with a padlock. We request information but it seems there is no alternative: either by boat or on foot, and we do not know exactly how far is the beach from the paved road, then we decide to go in the nearby bay of Santa Maria.
The beach is a small loop sandy, partly occupied by a beach, bathed by a beautiful sea and characterized, on the horizon, the shape of the stern of Naxos, where we go tomorrow. We stop there and, after putting a small tragedy in the scene who claim child, alone, to inflate the mattress (too big for its possibility), take a bath, which we can not, however, to enjoy fully, given the presence , on the bottom, some algae that do not enamored Sabrina and Federico.
Let in Santa Maria a few hours, then lunch and now we put ourselves in motion to change the beach.
Let's go back to Naoussa, the past again and we go, this time, towards the north-west of Paros, pass around Kolybithres and continue along the road that comes after a handful of miles, the beach Monastiri, so called because the presence, in fact, a monastery nearby.
The place is a pearl of Aegean and is inserted into an extraordinary setting, framed by steep mountains that go against the deep blue of the sea.
Let us now a long bath in its crystalline waters, then, with Richard, I go on the rocky promontory, where the religious building the customary turquoise dome, to discover new angles and perspectives from which suggestive shoot unforgettable images: that is, without doubt the most beautiful spot of sea in Paros, with the church that overlooks the scenic bay marked by white town of Naoussa, which stands out like a stain on the coast on the other side of the bay, and more in the distance the imposing silhouette of Naxos dominated by large white Nuvoloni, only the usual beach, however secretly infuses all'insenatura, stone with the beautiful landscape.
Spend, of course, a Monastiri the rest of the day, until the sun does not cease to offer its warm warmth, then reorganized our stuff, we accompany Sabrina to see the monastery and then we return to the hotel.
Later we go out for dinner last Paros: how the first evening and eat soulaki GIROS, then do four passes through the center and we stop at an internet-point to see how the weather will be in the coming days. It seems we have a good time and sunny until the end of the trip and so, more raised, we return to Paros Bay to begin to place their bags in preparation for the transfer to Naxos.
Until now it was a great vacation: we were happy with Paros, in many ways, and now we have serious reasons to believe that the next island will not disappoint our expectations.

Kicks off when the operation Naxos, with calm, we get up and go to breakfast, bringing with us the keys to the car, we should return by 9:00, but at preset do not see anyone. We do this to the concierge of the hotel and, after a phone call, teaches us that nobody is forgotten and will certainly arrive soon to take it. Meanwhile we in the room to accommodate the latest things, then, having finally left the car to its rightful owners, we descend to the reception with his bags.
Punctually at 10:30, arriving the van that will accompany us to the port, so salute the Paros Bay Hotel and begin the transfer.
Our ship (the Blue Star Paros) salperà quay at 11:50 Parikia, including more than an hour, but is not a big problem to wait because the sky is now, more than anything else, cloudy.
Punctual to reach the ferry: we climb aboard, and almost immediately, taking the deep, while Federico, as usual, I go exploring.
The ship slipped away on the smooth water and to 12:45 in men 'who do not tell, we are in the port of Chora, the main town and capital of Naxos, the largest island of the Cyclades, with its 428 kilometers (square) and surface 148 of the coastline. Land of myths and legends, as is every corner of Greece, Naxos, in antiquity, was the first island to abandon barter and take the money in trade.
Just landed here, we climb on a bus that takes us, a few kilometers outside Chora, the Lianos Village Hotel, where accommodation for the next six nights.
We deliver the keys imprinted with the number above 63, and meanwhile we also ask the hiring of a new car, then we reach the room, which appears to us now broad and welcoming, a suite compared to that of Paros, in addition there are the television and safe ... but also many mosquitoes! Barricades and let us begin the hunt, which, judging by the signs on the walls, have also undertaken by our predecessors, then we put ourselves in keeping from the sea and we are in the pool, but the sun is in hiding and on the arm of sea that separates Naxos Paros by a raging storm.
Later I go to pick up your car: a white Hyundai Atos (EME targato 3358), while the clouds full of rain remain at a distance and Federico makes a bath in the pool with the sun still covered. Meanwhile, send a text message of welcome to our friends, Sabrina and Ivan, which came to Mykonos to spend a week maybe we'll see them next Saturday night and certainly the plane's return.
We decide to go and do a tour, since we are driven, then move the camera and when they emerge out of the sun shines, so we reach the nearby beaches of Aghios Prokopis, formed by a shoreline of fine ghiaino and bathed by a beautiful sea. Here we spend the whole afternoon, while the sky was almost completely clears the clouds ... and if this was to be the days of bad weather ... va benissimo! ... nothing to object!
We remain on the beach until the sun disappears over the small mountain that is on our right, then we return to Lianos Village and we are preparing to leave.
Dinner in a tavern before making a walk through the narrow streets of Chora, and then return to the dark, to search. We find in the room and we see some 'of television, un'astinenza after seven days.

The day begins with a wonderful breakfast in the open air: our hotel is, in fact, on a hill about one kilometer from the sea and the landscape sull'Egeo that you can enjoy from its balcony, in the quiet morning, it's wonderful Only a little 'dall'onnipresente clouded haze. One sees, of course, much of the southwestern coast of the island with the background, just pronounced the outline of Ios, and to the right of the view that much sharper Paros. And 'thanks to this sublime view, shortly after, let's start, with renewed enthusiasm, the visit of Naxos, starting from its own capital: the Chora.
The country, which today has approximately seven thousand inhabitants, is of ancient origins and witness of this is on an island near the town, a surreal and gigantic marble door, which seems to frame the sea. The so-called Portaria, which is the symbol of Naxos, do not create in a building or in an enclosed space because its walls are the breezes that come dall'Egeo. This port and fragments of marble that are around are the remains of Naxos and its shrine dedicated to Apollo, built in the sixth century BC Millenarians debris scattered sull'isolotto Palatia to achieve that by taking the short pedestrian street that connects to the port (where, among other things, a water is incredibly transparent).
The place is very charming and full of mysticism, is not lacking, in fact, about the usual legend, that when Istanbul will return to Greece, miraculously, appear the doors of the temple (and if memory serves me, in that same while, should also find the hundredth door Ekatontapyliani in Paros!).
Remain for a while 'in contemplation to enjoy the spectacle of those simple but fascinating ruins in the middle of the sea, then let the buildings of ancient Greece to spend time on a poorer and more recently, but no less interesting, we start is to visit the old town of Chora, with a typically Cycladic.
The atmosphere bathing and modern buildings along the harbor are just the fifth play, which hides the other Chora, a casbah Venetian, Turkish, Byzantine. Uphill streets, archways, secret passages, covered alleys and tunnels that seem to stairs that lead us up, until Kastro built seven centuries ago by Marco Sanudo, nephew of the Doge. Then there were thirteen towers, now there remains only one, but, as a whole, the Kastro is a small medieval jewel, with some well-preserved churches, among which stands out the Catholic Cathedral, which, among other things, the guards' icon longest in the world.
In a building, located at the highest point of the city, there is the small archaeological museum, but today is Monday and is also closing days, so we must pull out, with great displeasure of the small (always fascinated by the exhibits), which But we have to tell which is closed for work to avoid another early traipsing down up here in the coming days.
Descend to the other port along narrow streets and conclude the visit to the center of Chora, which we liked, but not as powerful as that of Parikia.
Climb in the car and reach, a short distance from the capital, the characteristic church of Agios Ioannis Theologos: tiny, white, lonely and ... simply beautiful, as is clinging to the rock with his poor architecture and essential. To find out we had to request information from the réception of the hotel, because it is not marked on tourist guides and the only clue in our possession was a photo downloaded from the internet, but in the end we found and, naturally, photographed as deserved. There is also some cost 'of time, but worth it.
After a wonderful architectural beauty scorpacciata we are dedicated to nature, which does not wish to be less and should hopefully give a similar beautiful beach where you can spend the rest of the day.
We go south of Chora, in the stretch of coast where you will find almost all the most famous beaches of Naxos. Aghios Prokopis past, where you will find our hotel, and we come to Agia Anna, a small collection of houses from which a dirt road that runs along a long and beautiful beach.
We stop at the point, in our opinion, the most savage and there placed on a few meters from the water, behind high dunes, the sand underneath the feet soft and clear and agl'occhi facing a crystal sea and the silhouette of Paros that, who knows why, from Naxos is seen as well, the last week, was not as clear vision as to parts reversed.
We do a bath and lunch, then spend all afternoon in complete relaxation, until 18:00, when we return to the hotel and as we go along we change to Chora before sunset the sun, so as to be able to see it fall in middle of Portaria.
A magnificent spectacle, which gives the place even more charm and mystery, set the stage masterfully by the forces of heaven on a curtain in a flawless set by man and time. Only a few clouds low on the horizon, we have partially spoiled the party in the final.
The shadows of the evening quickly take the upper hand and it is still early to have dinner, then walk for a long time on the port of Chora, then we stop in and do a spaghetteria full of pasta, before returning to the Village Lianos and put the word end a day with flakes.

Tomorrow we visit throughout the interior of the island and is perhaps the hardest stage of the journey, so now we want to grant us a full day of sea and relax.
Sleep a little 'more than usual then, after a nutritious breakfast and a stealth harvest in the garden of our hotel, where growing succulent bunches of grapes, we will venture along the southwestern coast of the island. Beyond Aghios Prokopis and Aghia Anna and continue along a narrow and bumpy road that arrives, after a few but endless miles, near the promontory Mikri Vigla.
On the side exposed to the north is a beautiful beach, home to surfers because they normally fly in the wind. Here the breeze, and in other places it appears pleasant, even today it is no longer supported and invites us to stay.
We take a picture, as he passes a shepherd with his flock, before recovering in the car and reach the more sheltered side of the promontory, at whose feet there is a long beach, which would be beautiful if it were not invaded by several algae, photos, probably in Following a sea. Fortunately, walk up the coast in its most rocky beach is a wonderful "family size", just for us, with a lovely sea and beautiful views all around.
Arrange the towel and looking backpacks, in practice, the entire bay, then take a bath and play some catch small fish, as time passes, bringing with it the whole morning.
After lunch we leave our personal corner of the Aegean and, in the car, we return to the north, traveling back to the last section of trail in the morning.
We stop in Plaka, a few kilometers before Agia Anna: parking behind the dunes before arriving at the beach, which here is composed of fine gravel and wet from the splendid sea seen so far to Naxos (one level above that Paros, as provided in the rest). Even here we are taking a bath, but two ... and the afternoon slips away quiet.
Shortly before 19:00 and we return to later, the port of Chora long, with an excellent dinner of lamb ribs, and then, after a short walk, to accompany the little sleep, since it seems particularly tired after a ' whole day playing with the sand and among the waves of the extraordinary landscape of Naxos Beach.

So we leave for the day, perhaps, the most tiring journey: Naxos is quite big as an island, but its best beaches are concentrated in the south-west, but this does not apply, however, make the penalty a full turn.
Let's go in the direction of the town, then turn to the heart of this rugged land and partly wild. In short we are on top, to dominate a significant portion of the coast, only pity for the haze that always characterize any negative views.
Beyond the village of FILOT and turn right along a road that s'inoltra in the most inaccessible part of the island. We pass beneath the slopes of Mount Zeus, which with its 1010 meters high is the highest peak in the Cyclades, and we are coming, including evocative landscapes, the ancient tower Chimarou which unfortunately is being restored, where the tape ends d ' asphalt. From here a dirt road continues for several kilometers to the wild and uninhabited south-east coast, but there is no need to jeopardize the mechanics of our Atos and back down the same path until FILOT.
The next step leads us to Apíranthos, the capital of folklore naxiota, famous for its textiles, wine, and the strange dialect that mixes idioms Cretan and Byzantine. The air up here is sparkling: we are, in fact, the highest point of our journey, among the so-called Phanaria mountains, where the vines and olive trees prevail on where, according to a local proverb from rocks not gush water, but wine intoxicating.
Apíranthos is also called the "marble village" to the widespread use of this material in the construction of houses and his Paralia, a characteristic that paved the road we stroll leisurely, until you reach a delightful square, then go back to your and begin the long descent towards the sea.
After hundreds of curves come in the northernmost tip of the island, where the village of Apollonas, in whose outskirts we stop to visit the namesake Kouros.
The subject that brings this strange name is nothing but an unfinished statue, located at the point where he was about to be carved and abandoned, probably as a result of discharge of poor quality material. Sketchy, roughly in the rock is an impressive warrior about ten meters long, that it is lying in that position, from at least 2600 years!
Now we prepare to close the tour of Naxos, descending south along the rugged and wild north-west coast. We also try to go in search of a beach, so we descend all'insenatura of Abram, but the area normally exposed to very Meltemi, is not particularly beautiful, the sea is rough and bagnasciuga is full of debris and algae.
Not worth it to stop and we continue to go where the sea is more beautiful, even if it's late and hungry are beginning to be felt.
We arrive at Chora and we stop to see its beach (Agios Georgios), but it is too crowded for our tastes, then continued to grind miles and shortly after, we have to Aghia Anna: there the sea is beautiful and c ' is spoiled for choice.
Park your car near the dunes, then walk, we reach the point where there is the small church which gives its name to the area and where there systemic rocks give way to sand, then finally lunch.
Spend what remains of the afternoon relaxing: you are good, even if the wind blows a little 'more than usual ... but you better not complain, recalling the early days of the Meltemi. Meanwhile Federico makes friends with an Italian boy (Elijah), son of nudists, as he himself, after all, and most people around us.
Shortly before 19:00, finally, as the sun, burning down towards the dark silhouette of Paros, we leave the beach to return to the hotel.
This evening, for a change, not long dinner port of Chora, but in a taverna in Agia Anna, on the seashore, with mousaka, pastry and cheese greek: a nice experience there, however, preclude the possibility of taking a walk, so soon we find ourselves in a room ... tired but happy, after a day that we have been able to offer many points of interest, both historical and environmental.

The sky is slightly cloudy, but do not despair because it is certainly the sun, while in Italy, according to what they say on television, the raging storm, this crazy summer, practically since we started.
Pending the peaceful go to the inside of the island and reach the village of Melanesia, in whose outskirts one can see another Kouros: the Fleri. We enter a valley so unusual, the luxuriant vegetation, and are in the midst of an orchard, lying among the trees and with a broken leg.
The statue, which depicts a young man (perhaps a god or a hero), is smaller and more refined than that of Apollonas and perhaps less striking but still interesting.
Ended the brief visit and come back to Chora, just before the town, turn left onto a road that runs towards the south coast of Naxos.
Crossing in the village of Tripodes, where there are three windmills in a row on a hill, which would be beautiful if they were not semi-dilapidated, and we arrive at the sea near the village of Aliko.
In the area there should be some beaches, and we look at a not bad, but not special. Then we go to the nearby Pirgaki, where there is a great beach: nothing too special, even a small disappointment.
Let's go back to go to Aliko beach and in the first note, a short distance, parked in the street frieze, on the other side of the small promontory, a few cars. Curious we see usually when there are people in a place that is worth ... In fact, hidden under the edge of the cliff, there is a magnificent beach, view from above that is a real gem, probably the most scenic view up to now in Naxos.
Descend to leave backpacks, then, with Richard, go back to take some photos: before our eyes a strip of sand arc develops between the blue sea and the reddish wall of rock above, creating a framework of assured chromatic.
Remain for a while 'to enjoy the show and then let's go swimming in those beautiful waters. Pity only that the site is somewhat exposed to wind and then the choppy sea, but it is a defect, so if you can define, largely bearable.
Lunch and we will stop, of course, in this small paradise for the whole afternoon, surrounded by so much wonder and a few nudist beach, which does not give us any bother, although their behavior is incomprehensible to us. It is divinely and, between sunbathing and sea, time flies, indeed c'incamminiamo only when the sun is now near the horizon, then, calmly, let us return to the hotel.
Eating fish dinner in a tavern, served by a waiter unusual naxiota-ferrara, then do some buying and then later, so let's go to bed at almost midnight, with negl'occhi still magnificent beach of Aliko.

Today, as preannunciatoci arrival, will be the last full day in Naxos, tomorrow, in fact, with almost briefcase in advance, we will leave the island assigned Mykonos (where you spend a night), and all this to avoid losing the plane that Sunday we will return home. So there is failure in practice, a day of vacation and, as if not enough, tomorrow we were asked to leave the room until 12:00, while the departure is scheduled for 15:15. But we would like to get those three hours, since we have paid for seven nights at the Village Lianos plus a possibly extra Mykonos (which unfortunately was necessary), instead réception to argue that they were paid for only six nights. It is therefore a small question: we demand a statement indicating the number of nights actually paid, in order to request a refund once you are at home, but they deny this, saying to call for anything to local tour operator. Un po 'ce indispettiti went, trying to overlook and do not miss the opportunity to enjoy the best of this last remnant holiday.
We start again towards the interior of Naxos and do stage, near the village of Ano Sangro, to visit the ruins of the Temple of Demeter, built in Ionic style, in 530 BC, which stands next to the tiny Byzantine chapel of Agios Ioannis Yiroulas. Of construction is not very much, but makes a questionable reconstruction, in part, the idea of what must have been.
Ano De Sangro will then continue along a dirt road that adventure to the south of the island and reach the sea near the town Agiassos.
It seems to have reached the end of the world: we are now at the end of the tourist season and a ghostly group of houses, scattered, situated near the beach and not semi-beautiful, but wet from the sea particularly transparent. We stop for a while 'and take a bath, while in the distance is more than usual the clear silhouette of the island of Ios, then have lunch, with lots of clouds that pass above the head, attracted perhaps by the high mountains we are behind.
In early afternoon we start looking for a better place: walk a few hundred meters to the north and notice a small creek, the most beautiful beach where we were ... sin! We shall further, by going first and then Pirgaki Aliko (where we were yesterday), to arrive in the tiny village of Kastraki, the beach, beaten by the wind and the sea quite rough, it's a small disappointment.
We decided then to spend the last afternoon at Agia Anna: there are sure to find the beautiful sea and the beach is so long that we do not have problems to find a stretch for us yet unpublished.
First we enjoy a long bath, immersed in a water from extraordinary reflexes, then let the time run in complete relax and in a moment you tonight. The solar disk falls inexorably, while we return to the hotel, highlighting the silhouette of the island of Paros, beyond the narrow stretch of sea, tonight calmissimo, which divides us.
Let's take a shower and go out for dinner last Naxos, but not before being passed by the local tour operators to pick up tickets for the ferry tomorrow, because we do not find that in the meantime have been brought to the reception Lianos Village, then I take this opportunity to tell the story of the room and paid nights, but we are told to turn the head of Planet Earth at Mykonos ... do no more than bouncing the ball to each other and will be difficult if not impossible, to achieve something! It was only a matter of principle, infuses the holiday went well and this is important, so do not despair and we stop to eat a pizza, because we did not want to mousaka or soulaki, then immediately go back into the room to prepare, in Again, the bags ... is the second time and will not be the last.

We get up earlier than usual to be able to go to the beach at least a couple of hours, because, ultimately, we will have to leave the room until 12:00.
Shortly after 8:00 we go to breakfast at 9:00 and we are already on the beach of Agios Prokopis, where we were, for a few hours in a day of Naxos.
It 'a wonderful day, without a shadow of a cloud in the sky and the sea calmissimo, so it is a real pleasure to dive into that water to have a wonderful last memorable and bathroom. Meanwhile, Richard is happy to find the remains of a building that had, with the stones, the first day and taken away, wants to rebuild its current form.
Two hours pass quickly, and without it, we are in a hotel close to the bags before leaving the room and return the keys of contention. "
We deliver the rental car and we get to wait the hour of departure on loungers by the pool. We refresh taking a bath, before our eyes with the beautiful landscape that you can enjoy the balcony, then lunch, and we dress to go now.
The bus arrives even in advance, so even before the 15:00 we leave the Village Lianos and quarter of an hour later we are at port.
The minute hand must still make a full turn before it reaches the ship and deceive the observing time as another, then, finally, here is our (the Blue Star Ithaki): climb aboard and point Sailing Assigned Mykonos.
Sail on a calm sea, almost calm, and after about an hour landings at the port in which we are starting exactly thirteen days ago. There are to expect a bus which takes us to Paradise View Hotel, which spend a night, staying in room number 27. The structure is somewhat 'crude, but for the time that there must be more than enough.
Arrange the bags and leave to go to see, walk, Paradise Beach, one of the most famous beaches of Mykonos, perhaps once was beautiful, not today, as it is disfigured by many bathing establishments spread music throughout the volume.
Let us return to the hotel, take a shower, and the buses arrive at the center of Mykonos, where we gathered with our friends, Ivan and Sabrina. We meet near the marina along with two other boys of Verona (Elena and Alberto) and all together we go to dinner in a tavern.
We tell each other incidents and impressions about the holidays (they have been for a few days in Mykonos and Paros somewhere else), then take a walk, surrounded by many gay, of which the island is an undisputed capital .
Walk the streets of the center, which are typical, but perhaps a little 'too much exploited for tourism, we feature the Little Venice and then go to the bus stop: it was done late and the next will start no earlier than 24:00. Ivan salute and Sabrina, who meet again tomorrow at the airport, while Federico seems tired and when we come into the room shortly after midnight, asleep in a few minutes and blessed us, a short distance, so we follow.

Also this holiday turns inexorably to the end: it is the last day and we try not to get up from bed too late, just to stay even a little 'time to pass the swimming pool. In fact, at 8:00, we go to breakfast and half an hour later we are already lying on beds to forfeit the last warm rays of the sun Cycladic.
Federico plunges almost immediately into the water, not run the risk of losing a few minutes remaining of bath, instead we initiated a chat with two men in Bologna ... It is shocking how quickly steps that po 'di tempo remained.
Just before 11:00 we return in the room, up the last things to wear "clothes" and go out, luggage in hand. We put ourselves in anticipation of the usual bus, which arrives a few minutes after 11:30 and a brief us at the airport, where we meet Ivan and Sabrina, with whom do the return trip.
The airport of Mykonos is rather spartan: there is a board with departures and arrivals, there are video-terminal, does not feel an ad and then we do not know if our plane is on time or late. The only certainty is the row in front of the counter top where it says "Bologna", then embark luggage, past the check-in and we moved into the waiting room.
It is almost time to leave and no air here yet, then, finally, I landed one, but we should be, as to same, a Macedonian Airlines, and this written on the side door Pegasus. Time passes and no other land, then there is the strong suspicion that this is really what our air, since there are no more departures soon. In fact, with almost an hour late, climb on the Boeing 737 Pegasus Airlines, a Turkish company probably, judging by the red flag with the crescent bearing imprinted on the side of the entrance door.
Just a few moments and detached from the earth (about 758,682 flight Oa) with destination island of Santorini, which will make a brief stop before allocating for Italy.
About twenty minutes later landed sull'isolotto Cycladic, but did not fly over its famous caldera. Down all the passengers arrived at their destination except four that, naively enough, not if they were noticed and he nearly returned to Bologna, from where we had left this morning.
Forty-five minutes after the break (at 14:18) start, again without over the caldera ... sin ... will mean that "we will be forced" in the future to go back to Santorini to see it!
Let us share and flying up in first Ios, Sikinos then close, then, later, the coasts of the Peloponnese and the island of Kefalonia with, in the distance, Lefkada, and the Ionian Sea, and in sight of , are the clock back one hour.
Heading in the entire boot, from south to north, then we begin the descent, while on our right we can see clearly the Adriatic coast, and landed without problems at Marconi Bologna to 16:59.
We use a little 'time to collect your luggage, then, finally, leave the arrivals gate, and find, timely, grandparents to expect.
From Bologna to Forlì not take much time, even if they are not in agreement motorists traveling in the opposite direction, given the long queues and delays many faced. For us, however, ranks everything smooth: we spend so leave home Ivan and Sabrina, who thanked for the transition, and at 19:00 o'clock we are at the gate of our house.
We can not but be pleased with how the vacation went, the rest hardly remains disappointed by Greece and its friendly inhabitants. The little there was never been, but Sabrina and I, yes, two more times, and these islands (Paros and Naxos) are further confirmation of the extraordinary beauty of this land.