To the western and back, a cruise across the Dodecanese, Greece

May 27, 2010 Rhodes

Today I came to Rhodes in reconnaissance. The rest of the crew, the first crew will arrive tomorrow. I came to prepare the boat for long, so you can already sail tomorrow. The routes have already been studied theoretically, with joyful expectation and with the help of Google Earth, during the boring winter days All set, all discounted, then? But no, the unexpected condirà Gattadapelare the cruise, cruises anzj, because three different crews will alternate in the coming days on the waves of this southern Aegean. Cat still appears to me almost sull'invaso and barely recognize it: repainted and polished, without scratches, spots, "memories" of collision, with the keel at last protected by antifouling black after years of abstinence. The waterway, I recall an unfortunate launch took place in Naoussa, badly repaired several times by me, is finally closed and invisible. I look with pride and love the elegant lines of this boat and I think that boats do not take it anymore. Harmonious and excellent seafood, faces the waves with the quiet awareness of its strength and its stability. . Of course all this is to the detriment of the capacity and speed. But we do not race and crews were no longer than five members.
When I climb on board, climbing on the rickety ladder made available by the yard, the deck and appear to me well in all their ancient aspect. It 's time for a decisive and courageous action. I just have to decide what materials to use in connection with the final cost. I'd like to, of course, get back all in teak, but the material is more expensive alternatives are the teak dek (a plastic imitation), cork, or fiberglass, as I had recommended Haluk, a technician turkish (old knowledge of the times when the boat was docked in Marmaris), which had invited him to Rhodes last October to provide advice. Gino will wait, coming tomorrow to discuss with him what to do.
Make arrangements with an electrician foreman for tomorrow, (a Electrology as they say here, sounding word that suggests a parcel of high consistency) and finally a technician to install the driver automtico. I do some 'space in the cabin and get ready for the bed the first night on the boat. Cat's Dream already moored in the swing landing some lonely stillness and this I fall asleep without any care.

May 28, 2010-Rhodes

I dedicate the day to prepare the boat. The sailmaker brings me sail, left in October to his care, repaired and cleaned. It is also the 'Electrology "to view the work to be done (in my chores, in his magnum opus). At 16 there's "girls". They met in Athens, one from Vienna and the other from Rome, now devoted to "crawl" and "reckless" sailors. The secret pact that they will work closely with Poseidon this year? We will have calm and go to the engine or there will be a bit 'of wind? Maybe a gentle breeze that will give us the illusion to be real sailors? We'll see. Meanwhile, for a softer approach with the week before that, they settle into a hotel.

May 29, 2010. Rhodes

I had planned to start the 30, but I did not have that tomorrow is Sunday. Therefore, every effort will launch Monday. Today there's Gino and Mary

May 30, 2010. Rhodes

Today, with the arrrivo of "Hispanics" the crew is complete. Maria and Gino arrived last night and spent the first night in the belly of Gattadapelare. But it seems that they also have their need to acclimatise, so much that they booked the hotel for the night.
In short, the only real gattofilo "I am. But it is assumed that the skipper is the "hard" of the situation, the one who never leaves the ship. So, tonight I will sleep alone on board, and without the soporific rocking of the waves under the keel.
We're going to Lindos.
This village, Cycladic architecture, made of white houses lay at the foot of the acropolis, deserves the fame that brings many visitors here. Its origins are ancient, more than the capital city that its inhabitants helped to found. From this town in ancient times the settlers who founded Gela in Magna Graecia. The testimony of the importance is given by the remains of many temples that stood on the Acropolis.
We rent four donkeys and we do carry up there. From the acropolis, overlooking a breathtaking view. East bay is home to a large number of sailboats at anchor. Further away, towards the capital costs are low and sandy ago before falling back to be high. To the west, the Acropolis plunge into the sea. The remains of the Temple of Athena Linda dominate this scenario. Below us a kind of inner lake, connected with the open sea by a narrow passage, claims to be the landing place of the Apostle Paul. Later cliffs fall sheer into the sea were hard azzurro.Esse for these choices for the film "The Guns of Navarone" with David Niven, Gregory Peck, Anthony Quinn ..
We spend some time on the beach before resuming their journey home. After watching so much time on land sea and feel the overwhelming need to navigate. The promises of freedom suggested by the sweeping vistas that we saw today have made us impatient.

 

May 31, 2010. Rhodes (Mandraki)-Alimia Island. 32 Miles

Finally launches. Gattadapelare leaves the corner of the charnel house where he spent the winter and rolled to the launch of the tub. The crew is waiting in the shadow of the keel of a boat that transactions are completed on board ready to transfer luggage and supplies purchased at the supermarket. Among these the inevitable bottle of ouzo, which will mark the canonical hours of the next day.
When finally the boat feel free to swim in the sea takes us deep joy. It 'an almost physical sensation that rises from the belly and makes her way toward the throat where it would come out in a cry shouted to the sky. Yauuuh! The bow is now time to west. We have to get almost all the island of Rhodes to come to our first mooring, you welcome bay of Alimi.
Proceed with a light wind and sea just moved along to Rhodes a couple of miles from the coast. Too little, because when we see before us a raft of support for the sub and we see the bottom was more prudent to extend to starboard. The external sounder Gattadapelare is out for years. There one inside at the side of the chart table, but it is inconvenient to use. And 'one of us must sit in the boat and read aloud the measurements, what we do when we have to navigate through a must. In the present case it is sufficient to point out to sea without resorting to any sailor lying lazily on the cushions of the cockpit. Late afternoon we reach the quiet bay of Alimia. I have already told the last of this island cruise Gattadapelare. However, for the record this year you need a quick summary. This island, recently extended and is now uninhabited hilly. During the last war he became a German naval base and the few houses in the village in the bay, were requisitioned and used by the command of the Navy Germanic. The inhabitants were moved to nearby Halki and never returned.
Today the village is completely abandoned, inhabited only by a few feral sheep. Only the church shows some signs of use. As usual in such cases once a year a priest comes to say mass. We moor at anchor in the quiet of the bay, where there are already a couple of boats and get ready for dinner and overnight. Just before we approached a fishing boat tied to the thick cable of a mysterious dead body, from them we bought a nice barracuda do not believe that its meat is particularly tasty, but they had nothing else to offer, plus a handful of hair.
We again visited the old barracks of the remains of the German sailors who, chipped by time, are just a few feet above the rocky shore. We stood in front of the drawings on the walls made by talented young artists, now if nonagenarians survived the war and time. Drawings of mountains and villages of the Nordic views of the Alps, Bavarian or Tyrolean perhaps, ironic drawings of plump "Stooges" Sweik brave soldiers, waiting for news or parcels from home. Designs that exude homesick and wanted to normalcy, peace of oblivion by the war. We agitated about the suffering of young men called to fight for an absurd ideal, so far away from their loved ones, indifferent to the blue beauty of these places. The feelings we experience transcend from belonging to this or that belligerent. The unknown artists belong to humanity and express feelings that are common to us all.
But the magic of this' desert island soon distracts us from the melancholy and back crawl to be carefree




1 June 2010 - Alimia

Sails to Halki. We need to take only 6 miles, but just come out of the island are well-protected bay winds and rising tides. Let the waves advance from a distance of more ornate foam. The choice between a couple of hours of sketches and bumps and tranquility offered by Alimia us is easy. We have no reason to hurry. Let's go back. Today, we are lazy and we are here to enjoy the beauty of this bay.
We go down the bay, where the remains of the village and visit. Here's paintings of submarines and torpedo boats decorate some rooms in what must have been the headquarters of the base. I recall a few verses of Guido Gozzano, poems addressed and savor in your mind .... "Odor of shade, the smell of the past, the smell of abandonment, desolation." The only inhabitants of the houses abbandonaste man, sheep, there look and run away scared.
But Gattadapelare swinging from a few meters from the pebble beach reminds us of this. A good toast with ouzo, and back to joy as always. We move to reach the station early in the South, the most protected bay.
I'm going to take some nice fish and fish, to me known for their meat texture and flavor. Peach is another fish that did not know, but whose picture I saw a few days ago in Rhodes in a poster at the police station. One of the few Greek words I could understand it called "epikindino" dangerous. Gently slam, protecting the hand with a towel and look at it. It has whitish belly swells to my manipulation while croaking from a mouth adorned with a suitable notched to crush the corals. We understand that it is not an indigenous species, as well as barracuda, all fish have arrived in the Mediterranean, warmer today than yesterday, through the Suez Canal. On call of "girls" are discarded at sea. Remains unknown, its danger, but we promise to inform us when they return home.
(*** Note posthumously: see news on web log at the end.)

Italian flag with a boat arrives and asks us to water and fire. There are a couple of days abstinent from pasta. Us too. We have what they ask, but the Cat is over the pasta. So, there are conditions to create a barter. It alongside our boat, staying on his own again, and we cook with separate shifts compared to those sections of the "tooth" of cooking. After repainting we have not yet put on the sides of the boat, the inscription of his name: GATTADAPELARE.
When our neighbors will come to recognize the boat to know it already from somewhere in the past. It is not the first time this has happened. We are now around the Aegean, even for a few weeks a year, more than a decade, and very few boats have the name written, clear and well (oh, horror!), On the sides. What unseemly, it seems, but we like it.

June 2, 2010. Alimia-Halki, 5 miles

The neighbors want to leave, but our boats during the night they turned together several times. The two chains are well intertwined that only after a long Gino our skipper and a sailing ship can get rid of the other.
Halki is a small island very barren, except for a narrow valley that the ancient Chora, abandoned for years, down to the village by the sea. Other settlements are not there today and the country has experienced in the past, the sad phenomenon of emigration to America of his men in search of work.

Halki now lives a quiet phase of rebirth to be chosen by the British, who have here been a significant colony. The old and neglected houses in neoclassical style, lay on the shore, with the foundation almost surrounded by the sea, whose exceptionally clear calls for floating carefree eager to slip into his eyes lost in the cloudless sky, the houses are now expertly restored by sons of Albion and are subject to the envious glances of the few tourists that come down to Halki transported by small ferries that once a day with quast'isola Rhodes. From Rhodes is everything, even drinking water .. Approaching our destination, for some considerable distance we see a column of smoke rising in the clear sky. At first we believe it is due to the usual burning of garbage, as is often seen wandering around the islands, but there is approaching from a ship anchored in port. Burns, ironically, the stern of the tanker that supplies drinking water to Halki. We dare not dock at the small floating dock, destined for yach, because it is too close to the ship on fire and we're going to put on the anchor in front of a tavern outside the country. Then, walk, reach the village at the very moment when the wreckage is hauled away by a tug


June 3, 2010. Halki,

I find it much motor oil in the bilge and I fear the worst. The mechanic reassures us: oil leaving the filter is perforated by rust. For years, I do not think the filter. I worry just carry a pair of drive belts, after experiencing what it means to be without, but the filter is not never gave me any concern. From now on I'll have one of respect. And the fuel filter? Even that has never been changed. But this is a sailboat, because only the engine to give us trouble? However, on the island there are no spare parts and we have to order one in Rhodes. It will arrive tomorrow by ferry.
Forced idleness spend the day between sessions to kafenion and unsuccessful attempts to visit the interior. The only bus that could take us on the only road of 'reaching the island only monastery can not start because the only driver of Halki is ill.
Fortunately, the taverns are very nice, is dinner? To? To, our Mary, at a table painted blue, on a small square in the inevitable fronzoso tree, in a profoundly Mediterranean, Aegean indeed.

June 4, 2010. Halki-Diafani (Island Karpatos). 35 Miles

We look forward to the arrival of the 11.00 ferry from Kamiros (Rhodes) that should lead the oil filter, but when this ends we are told that the replacement part is not there. This means that we will be stuck here for at least another day, time to try another chance in Rhodes-town.
But our mechanic is full of initiatives, is an old filter somewhere and mount it there with a lot of calls to have on board is always another reserve. So, let's start, late, but we're off. Almost always, the stretch of sea between the western tip of Rhodes and Karpatos is very windy for the Venturi effect, but today it is flat calm and the crossing takes place in a quiet, often between toast with ouzo and pleasant conversation. Guidance navigation, go toward the safe harbor Diafani that, even if they are passed since the first visit with my daughter Marcia, I remember very well. I then made a nice impression and I guess that little or nothing has changed. Karpatos island is not included in the usual suggestions of tour operators, also its northern part is poorly accessible from the capital because of the unpaved roads. So, a place we like. The capital of this part of the island is Olympos, a small village of 300 souls, located on the crest of Mount Profitis Elia. We arrive late afternoon and moor English, then as now, the pier at its end. There are no other boats except those of the fishermen and I get all the same. I get the sensation that the time has stopped and with it the progress of my life to the last port of call. And 'search for similar illusion that drives us, pushes me, to return to the places of the past and try to regain the feelings of the time. And when they were equal to those of memory, do the sweet and melancholy journey back in time to deceive us, as long as this illusion, we have remained unchanged.
Rest of the boat to cook dinner while my crew goes to find the village of Diafani - transparency-that extends along the pebbly shore. Their phone calls on me to join them. They found a nice tavern and want to dine there. From the voice of the telephone operator reflected enthusiasm for the place and what makes me happy, because I am the author of this proposed cruise. We reach, therefore, the only walking street along the sea and discover that in fact even Diafani changed. I do not remember that time there were so many taverns in town, they account for about half a dozen all with large TV screens, there are the World Cup to remind the world that there are no more divorced from the trendy spots.

June 5, 2010. Diafani - Kasos. 37 miles

Let's start with the modern version of the bus for another time. The bus that takes us to Olympos, is full. The passengers, about fifteen, are mostly locals, among them a couple of tourists who fall silent before reaching the high country. The vehicle climbs to the curvy road, but suddenly divert to. Reach a scattered group of small houses built on a broad plateau devoted to agricultural activities. Some garden, some fields of cereal, goats and poultry razzolante. Poor farming, but important enough to justify human settlement. In the country - if we can define the point at which the houses are closer together - where our driver download some passengers, including tourists sat silent in a row next to which I have not been able to attribute any nationality, c ' is also a rustic, unrealistic, kafenion. Here, under a pergola unlikely an elderly German couple having breakfast with a newspaper bought who knows when and who knows where.
After the brief stop we continue the journey and after many other curves poised on precipices and cliffs, finally reach the Olympos.
There are pictures of a meeting time that was. Older women in costume buy vegetables from a greengrocer walking, an old woman dressed in black, goes up the steep trail that winds through the houses below. Carrying on his shoulder a lot, also black imagine full of simple things. I remember having a similar scene the first time I came here with my daughter and another little old lady (or maybe the same?) Rose for the path that we went descending. She also wore a shoulder bag and flour may it contained had whitened his shoulders. An appearance is symbolic because Olimpos famous for its bread, a bread baked in almost all homes have a very good bread, heavy, fruity, in the form of large round loaves of bread crust scented ancestral poetry. A Olimpos there are bakers, each family is making bread by itself and if the visitor wants to eat it must necessarily go to a tavern. Today's taverns are a dozen, and even souvenir shops, but the narrow streets that affect the town's houses, do not walk flocks of tourists. Olympos is a country for tourism wise, respect for the tradition and jealous of his silenzi.Il town is situated on the dividing ridge of the mountain and facing up, on a coastline of indescribable beauty. From the terraces, balconies, through the openings between the houses you can see a panorama of blue and sun that makes you discover, in the thin mist of summer, the coasts of Crete, Kassos, and other islands scattered in the sea gods. We walk through the alleys. From small shops come in costume women to offer their goods. One of these I seem to recognize it. I have at home a photo of her and my daughter smiling together as they try a shawl. And I ask her if she and the woman smiles, she recalls. Ahead is a small square and the church and a small tavern where the first time I listened to this, Marcia and I, the landlord and his son play those instruments like violins here called Lit. The child had a small, almost a toy, with his age. Here we have breakfast, we of the Cat, on a terrace surrounded by light and quiet of this unique Aegean town. Ask about that child many years ago played the lyre and the father tells us that now attends the university on the continent, in Thessaloniki. Yet I think that's all the same, the village, people, feelings that everything forward. Taking the road back. There is no service to return to Diafani and courageously we were walking on the asphalt. It will take almost two hours to travel seven miles from the marina where the boat is waiting to set sail for the Kasos. But for the "girls" luck is around the corner, even the curve. The garbage truck loads to the edge of the driver (but is the same bus!) And his helper Africa. There is no place for us. We see them start smiling and a little 'good-luck charms, and perhaps perplexed with great regards. The three of us, Maria, Gino and I, we continue our descent, but watch the arrival of other cars. An off-road guided by an English (?) Deliberately ignores us and continues chased by our malicious comments, but a pick-up takes us by welcoming us on board in the bin and transports us to Diafani facing curves and bends with cheerful unconsciousness. Just close your eyes or look elsewhere. The collection worked: the "girls" are to expect the Kassos molo.Partiamo Direct with little wind and calm sea. Karpatos us peaceful parade on the starboard side to its southern extremity. Here the wind is cooler because the island's mountains are lowered until it disappears in a plain where the airport is located and open the way to the winds. Shortly before doubling the bit to head northwest on the island of Kassos we review the rusty wreck of a vessel failure beach many years ago. In the channel between two islands the wind picks up and gets to finally giving us the pleasure garden run chased by the waves. It rains a little, but the mood is helped by the inevitable high because ouzo. When we get to Sun, the capital of Kasos is almost dark. English are placed between the other three boats, almost at the head of the long pier. Kasos takes its name from a prince of Minoan Crete who lived there first. Homer mentions nell'Iiade this island as the place where it was decided the Trojan War The country seems suggestive and explored after confirming the first impression. It seems sad, almost shabby.
Kasos participated in the war with Athens against the Persians. It was the haunt of pirates and the rule of Venice, but the peak reached the economic and trade under the Turkish occupation. Since his great commercial fleet entered the service of Greece in 1821 in the war of independence against the Turks, they retaliated by massacring the inhabitants and destroying Fri. Since then, never recovered and the memory of his misfortune still seems to hover around us. On another island, which had the same fate, I felt similar feelings. E 'Psara, west of Chios. Canaris also home of the national hero, crowded, rich and prosperous before rebel turkish empire is now a shell of itself.
We have dinner in a tavern on the harbor. There are only men and the ever-present pope.

June 6, 2010. Kasos-Sitia (Crete) 42 Miles

We are awakened by loud noises of a crane to lift huge rocks to extend the pier. The British boat was ahead of us, near the site, change the mooring in a cloud of dust. We do a little 'galley and head to reach the final port of the first crew Gattadapelare. A Sitia, in a few days and will embark Gino Gianfranco and return to Rhodes where he will return to the second crew. Gattadapelare this year seems to be a charter.
With a sea smooth, but with a fair wind we sail serenely towards the headland to the north-east of the island of Crete after which, in a wide bay overlooking Sitia.Vediamo show on the right Dionesiade, uninhabited islands and a few miles after we come to the city of Sitia The pier is long and fits easily in a few sails and a few other vessels. The city has ten thousand inhabitants and its architecture is amazing-The buildings are modern and lacks the charm of the picturesque Greek island of small villages. I find it much changed since I was here with my daughter in 1997. Today, a long row of restaurants runs along the sea and there are all the other features of the tourist town. They are mainly a greek tourism, more native to us and better accepted than international, discounted and boring.
We have dinner in a tavern invited and welcomed by a beautiful "director room" of Russian nationality, who does not gather the sympathy of the female part of the crew Gattadapelare. Neither Gino nor I have anything to plead. Also the eye wants its part.
Make arrangements to rent a car for the next three days to spend around Crete.

June 7, 2010 - Crete (Heraklion)

We're headed to the island's capital, Iraklion. The road full of curves, which is adorned with oleander bushes and occasionally opens up magnificent views of coast and sea. Crete is the largest Greek island and the fourth largest in the Mediterranean. Its dimensions are such as not to feel any sense of restriction.
For Aghios Nikolaus, a charming coastal town with most international tourism to Sitia, we stopped to eat in the early afternoon and reach Iraklion. And 'This is a city not particularly appealing, but has a very interesting archaeological museum, a few miles from the center, the archaeological excavations of the palace-city of Knossos. By now the crew go forward. Tomorrow we will visit the palace and museum and the day after Maria and Gino will resume the flight to Brussels. Then comes the turn of Gerlinde and Elke.
We go down in a downtown hotel and we go for a walk around the streets of the city. Apart from the ruins of the Venetian castle overlooking the harbor and the remains of the arsenal there is nothing to remember the importance that this city had in the history of past trades. A pretty Venetian fountain dedicated to Admiral Morosini, adorns the central square of Heraklion to commemorate the completion of a water city.

June 8, 2010 - Crete

We went to visit Knossos. Even here I found a multitude of tourists that there was ten years ago. The phenomenon is inevitable, and now I can not wait to go to unknown places to live and reveling in its authenticity. In a few years there will be a corner of this country and this wonderful sea and will not be distorted by the presence of Bermuda shorts and Hawaiian shirts.
Among the less popular ruins of the palace of Minos we left drag the myth rather than history and reconstructions of Evans does not have offended us, indeed helped us to better understand the magnificence of that away.
Also visit the archaeological museum was due, but also of great interest. The paintings and ceramics of the people they denounce the pleasure-loving nature and elegant.
Some vases and furniture have characteristics of a surprising news, such as to make us think that they are the smugglers of the Minoan culture among us
In the afternoon we change hotel. Now we are in the sea from our rooms and enjoy a beautiful view to the Aegean and the setting sun.

June 9 Iraklion.

A final toast with Maria and Gino, and then accompany them to the airport. It 's time to say goodbye and promises, but we all know that being a sailor promises us "crawl" will keep the, next year in Kastellorizo, the most extreme Greek island and then along the Turquoise Coast, then up to leave the boat or Leros Patmos for his annual rest.
Also curious about the excavations at Phaistos leave the Aegean coast to reach the Libyan Sea. There is a lake in the hills of the interior of the island, popular with the Cretans to be a delightful place of rest and trout cooked in a couple of taverns in the place called Agios Nikolaos. The place is up to the expectations of the islanders, and certainly enjoyable destination for Sunday outings, but the trout have prohibitive prices which lead us to order food less valuable.
Festive repeats the pattern of the "palace" Minoan, but here the archaeologists have respected the original condition of the remains. The location is excellent, the building is situated on a plateau overlooking a fertile plain rich in surrounding olive groves and vineyards. Here tourists do not see that very few.
After some
km
reach the
Matala coast,
the ancient Matalon,
a town
bathing, also
very "turististicizzata. Shops, taverns and cafes, but also a beautiful beach at the bottom of a large bay where the sea comes with waves that appear different from those of the Aegean.
These are large and well shaped, short waves, and those are small and frequent, nervous and glistening with the crests of foam. Of the horses restless.
In the limestone coast, which stands on the other side of the beach for a few tens of meters, open many man-made caves. In ancient dwellings of the living and later, Roman, sepulchres. Some of these memories in the form and arrangement of niches in the Etruscan tombs in the tuff of our Tuscany. A scenic place to rest endless caressed by the eternal sound of the sea that goes up there.
We return late afternoon in Iraklion. In the hotel we are greeted by the sight of the leaders of the Italian club that occupied the entire structure.

June 10, 2010 - Iraklion
The "girls" leave.














I found a rented apartment not far from the airport, with a license to harvest of apricots from the garden surrounding the house. We take the opportunity to supply plenty of galley Gatta
We look for tomorrow's arrival of the third member of the new crew, Pino, returned from Cuba
I go pick up the new anchor ordered when we arrived in Iraklion. Fortunately, in recent days we have never needed to moor on the anchor.

June 10, 2010 - Iraklion


June 11, 2010 Sitie

Pino tells us that we will arrive in the afternoon and will reach Sitia.
We precede it in the car and prepare the boat for departure tomorrow.
In the evening we all three together and in good spirits. We expect to sail nine days before the new change of crew.

June 12. Sitie-Kasos. 42 Miles

I do help a fisherman from the nearby fishing vessel to replace the sail-ancopra.
Work only a half hour on the mechanical and declares himself unable to make the electrical connections. Rewarded him with fifty euro and leave him dissatisfied.
Away with a good wind and sea on a reach almost smooth. The row boat nicely and we get to Kasos in late afternoon. On the vast off the bottom of the harbor ambitions of fun there. A strong disco music with us for several hours in the night. Pino, went exploring, he came back, however, disappointed. Few people and ugly women.

June 13. Kasos-Diafani, 37 miles.

Before leaving the galley in the one store that we find ourselves. I am looking for ice, which is essential because the refrigerator does not work for years. Not if it finds, but the bartender at the end of the pier there offers a large envelope. In Greece, certain movements of generosity are not uncommon and this is one more reason I love this for people who feel, and which is friendly towards us Italians. Also this time I do not know how often I heard the refrain "same face, same race" or variant "my fats, my rats." Certainly the ties that unite the two peoples are strong and old. From Ancient Greece to date through the period of Roman domination, the influence of the Eastern Roman Empire, the Byzantine era, cultures, Italian and Greek are intertwined like no other and amalgamating the world.
In the channel between Karpatos Kassos and the wind strengthens and the garden is but the tip of the island so we have dubbed sideways until the arrival in late afternoon in Diafani.
Shortly before docking caught a nice bonito.
At the beginning of the country, coming from the port, there is a cafe run by an Italian happened here a few years ago and captured by the charm of the island. Sitting under the pergola of the small elevated terrace we enjoy the pleasure of not having anything to do and we talk of the place and destini.umani. This evening we will party up there, to Olympos, a whole village feast. For the season, and the difficulty, however, to reach the village from other parts of the island, will be given the presence of a few tourists. But even we'll be there: we can not find any means of transport to take us on. The only taxi Diafani has already started and the bus service will only be available tomorrow morning at 7.30. We are very disappointed because it was a unique opportunity to live a few hours in a genuine and spontaneous world of people committed to celebrate their customs and ancient traditions that are the cement of their existence proudly village
You can dine on board and goes to get the Italian ice cream by his friend.




June 14, 2010. Karpatos (Diafani) - Rhodes (Lindos). 50 miles.

We wake up in time to catch the bus to go to Olympos. But it is good because an officer of the local harbor master, which I guess is only made by him, ordering us to move on and leave the wheel. The sea got up this night and the ferry at 10.00 downwind dock at the pier. This clears the chance to go to Olympos leaving the boat alone on the anchor. But on the beach in front of the taverns, there is a small pier that I go to inspect. A fisherman who is working on his boat on his head tells me that there are at least four feet of water. It does not appear, but the fund for our cat is there and we anchor them. But even here at 11.00 you get the boat that takes tourists from the capital, and this forces us to land on one side of the dock expecting to touch the bottom. But nothing happens, there's no air here, and this reassures us. Here comes again the officer to observe and come to the conclusion that we can stay there. It does not have as much luck an Italian boat that has finished now and that has to spin again and stay off.
At 11.00 the boat arrives to download a score of Slovenian tourists. To expect a bus on which we are allowed to climb too, and so you go, I for the second time this year on 'Olympus'.
They repeat the usual scenes: women in costume come out of their shops and come to us in a broken, but fruitful Italian. Pino buy anything anywhere, especially shirts and t-shirts, and we, shy and smiling, we're looking at two steps away.
On a small, charming small terrace in the shadow of a windmill, we are looking at the sea below us, drinking ouzo and enjoying some of the "pites" come out hot from the oven warm on a short distance. Surrounded by a panorama of mountains and sea. Perhaps this is the Hall of Jupiter.
To descend to Diafani, we opt, necessarily, for a march on foot, take the old path leading to the sea, and boldly, we start to address the two-hour journey. The sites are archaic and bucolic. We drink of a source, providentially appeared after finishing the stocks of mineral water, collect herbs, descend and ascend rocky machines, as long as the path does not cross the driveway. Here the asphalt leads us to the sin of laziness, we ask for the transition to a pick-up and closing, as always, his eyes not to sell the pitfalls that await us at every turn dealt with cheerful boldness.
For dinner, the Italian friend has prepared us a delicious goat stew.

June 15, 2010 Diafani-Lindos (Rhodes). 46 miles.

We leave the bay, making sure that there is close to the seabed with the intention to head north to reach Halki, but just out of wind and waves are very close-hauled. The day is well advanced and the idea of fighting for hours to reach the island do not like. Best Eastern enlargement and go under the island of Rhodes to reach the bay of Lindos friendly. Along the southern part of the island the sea is smooth, but the strong wind comes to us through the powerful gusts that vibrate with the loud noise reefed mainsail with two hands. Go on like this until a few miles from his arrival in Lindo.
There are five boats in the bay and carefully selecting the point where we still fall. We are tired, do not fall to the ground.

June 16, 2010. Lindos, Rhodes Town. 45 miles

My mates ascend the Acropolis with the donkeys on the beach while I'm left to read an Italian newspaper days old. News out of date not more excited. Who knows what happened in the meantime and, most importantly, who cares. We live in these places a reality divorced from the graces and misfortunes of the world we left behind leaves Italy. An alternate reality that fascinates us to take drugs. We know our duties, we will report shortly to another reality, but to understand why so many sea meet, which we call the reality tyrant, with a little bit 'of irony and a bit' of envy, alternative, people who have Thrown life before and rotates freely to the sea with no other home and his boat. It is lonely, almost always men mostly bearded, sometimes accompanied by a dog, but also older retired couples on boats and pints neat, well ordered, decorated with curtains and cuscienerie the door, almost always accompanied by a cat.
Here at Lindos of tourists there are many more than two weeks ago. Big boats constantly arriving from the capital by downloading a very large sample of humanity that passes in front of my deck. When they return my friends I have made full of worldliness and are ready to proceed to sea on the lonely sea. We eat at the table and head.
Today the wind is not so intense as in the past and continue to loose much, but without the annoying vibration of the upper extremity, Rhodes Island protects us from the waves and just when you double its eastern end, behind which hides the city, we find a bit 'of the sea. Certainly no place in the port of Mandrake and we must redo the full of water. The best solution is to find shelter in the first large sheltered inlet on the south by a long pier where the big ships dock, on which also overlooks the basin of the "carnage" that has hosted Gattadapelare throughout the winter. Wave and wind that we can not enter a comfortable berth in the basin, so we carry on the leeward side of the port and filiamo all our fifty feet of chain on the bottom four feet to earn a quiet night on the town.
Despite this, the fear that during our absence the plow still can not abandon the skipper, always anxious.
Upon our return everything is fine and spend a quiet night.

June 17, 2010. Rhodes-Simi Island, 23 miles

Awakens us to the final scream of the siren of a ship that must maneuver to dock right in our waters. There aliamo quickly on the anchor and we pass it in the basin of the carnage. The wind has dropped and no longer enters the wave of last night that we could not maintain its position in the basin. Without full of water salute the staff on the ground and we go direct to Simi. Simi is an island excursion destination of many boats from Rhodes. E 'ranks among the best tourist targets an audience of middle-aged, however, that there is more than a few hours. It 's the reason why the country is quiet, without the confusion typical of other sites such as Ios, Mykonos or Skiathos. The harbor is always full of boats, even in this period, but we meet a few people on the ground. Homer tells us that Simi participated in the expedition against Troy with a number of ships and the reputation of having fast boats gave her the mandate to ensure the postal service during the Ottoman Empire. During the recent conflict has also suffered the bombing to hit the Italian ships which were under German and then in the deep bay around which the village stands. The houses in the neoclassical style and decorated with pastel colors are the hallmark of the island. I like to find someone to just Kastellorizzo and Halki. For the rest of the Aegean islands have rooms, "Cycladic", as we know from the classical picture that emphasize Greece, low houses, whitewashed with brightly painted doors and windows in blue, red, yellow ocher.
We stroll around aimlessly and spend several hours in cafenion.
A surprise addition to our fourth guest Gattadapelare, is a cousin of the famous Pino, who last year gave us "pit" and relinquished the last minute to come on a cruise with us. Gianfelice immediately obvious enthusiasm for this new experience and we welcome him with sympathy.
Dinner is on board with roast lamb.
After an evening spent at a table in a room on a noisy street, in the din of rock music, unusual, let us appreciate the tranquility of our boat awaits us patient, squeezed between two others, on suspicion of English still cross by boat to our left .

Simi-June 18, 2010 Turkey (Bozukkale) 11 miles

And in fact our Torque tube loose with yet another chain. After several attempts we finally managed to escape and move away in a sea of calm. We pass two other boats, a large catamaran and a sloop, which have the same problem and they turn each other around in the middle of the channel. But we are now free, we will proceed without disturbing thoughts to the discovery of a creek, Bozzukkale in the Turkish coast a few miles away. In the pilot's book is described as pleasant and well protected.
We walk the few miles separating Greece from Turkey. Let's change the flag as a courtesy we expect to be in the territorial waters of Crescent and soon after we enter the bay, a natural harbor surrounded by a mountainous landscape. In its background one can see the ruins of the city of Loryma. L 'entrance on the west side is dominated by well-preserved ruins of a castle of the Hellenistic period, whose long walls do not show their age. We are looking for a beach where a barbecue. We find the right one, does not really protected, but we must be content, there are no other available. Transhipped several times all you need and cook chicken on the grill. The beach is rocky and arid. I keep being continuously monitored our boat that is oriented parallel to the shore by the wind, but with the stern towards the cliff on one side close to the beach. It seems to me that the anchor has begun to plow and anxiety of the skipper fed by the owner to push me back on board soon. We're really plowing and now I am about ten meters from the coast. In these cases, I always wonder what I would do if the engine is put in motion. I've already been three times that he was betrayed by motor boat in the breakers very difficult, but at the last minute we managed to save Gattadapelare. These are experiences that mark the spirit and contribute to the anxiety state in which the owner lives for as long as it is cruising. The question that is at times playful conviviviali is asking how to recognize a shipowner from the rest of the crew when you are on the ground. The answer is: 'It's always the one who does not laugh. " However, the engine started after endless seconds of warm-glow during which gaze remained fixed on the menacing rocks.
We move across the bay where we see some sloop moored at the dock of a small tavern. We are greeted with enthusiasm by the manager and some boats, handled by nearly all stout Turkish trousers, full of shirts, t-shirts, towels, rugs and anything else that could be of interest to tourists. Pino-shopping ..
It's hot and we spend a lot of time immersed in water, resting on the rocks,
many squills name of florets attached to the rocks, ready to be fished out of the tavern for dinner.
The tavern is called "Ali Baba" and makes no mention of the 40 thieves, but we think that the prices of the menu are hidden in the kitchen. Turkey became the cruiser rather expensive, compared to Greece, and, however, more and more cheaply in Italy. Boats with the Italian flag were once a rarity, but now, with every passing year, we meet more and more. Basically it disturbs us a bit 'because it takes away the feeling of us to have the privilege of' uniqueness of the discovery of these shores.
We eat on the terrace of the tavern along with four other Central European crews, scorning the proposals of lobster and wine Changaia the innkeeper, disappointed and hopeful first disdainful then, he had undergone.
Clear night spent in a cozy corner of Turkey. Women traders also sleep in their boats, dreaming of the poor show, tomorrow, many of Pines.


June 19, 2010. (Turkey). Bozukkale-Serce Limani. 3 miles

Alongside this bay there is another, smaller and with two opposing inlets each host on the bottom, a tavern. There seems to be more attractive to the right where there are already four sailboats moored on the dead bodies there and we sneak. Other small boats, some local fishermen, are juxtaposed to the shore and they shall be posting a couple to come to offer his usual wares. Pino, of course, also buy here. The landlord shows up and invites us to dine with him.
The shores are rocky, steep, and traversed by a flow path on which scenes of ancient life. Pass a man dragging a donkey, then another carrying on his shoulder, holding him by the legs, a goat bleating. E 'preceded by a dog happy and wagging. Some goats down the steep cliff by jumping from the rocks on the shore to lick the salt deposits dl. Bleating, braying, calm voices. A delight for the soul of our citizens.
In the evening we go ashore to eat. Captain Nemo, is the name of the tavern and even here the suspicion that the name is not accidental. The bill is salty (always relative, but for days we used to spend much). I'm the only one to complain, the rest of the crew falls silent, embarrassed. For the Turkish tavern not leave a good impression, but I feel a duty to contribute to moderation by the catering market boats.
When everyone is on a bunk, Gianfelice and I should wait a little to well to listen to the wonderful starry night, the sounds of this port. The hoof on the stones of the donkeys who go somewhere and somehow leaves us perplexed at the moment. Then we see the silhouettes in the light of the moon rising from behind the mountain.
A Bray wishes us good night.

June 20, 2010. Turkey-Rhodes (Mandrake). 11 miles

i wake up in a day of absolute calm. Everything is reflected in the water, the boat, the rocky crags, the sparse and stunted oaks. E 'on the last day for this crew. Marzia arrive in the afternoon with their grandchildren.
The crossing from Turkey to Greece to do almost any motor. Gianfelice had no way, in these few days spent on board, to taste the real pleasure of the Cat, sloping to the sea, running before the wind. It will be for another time. For today's games are made.
We find, unexpectedly, located in the port of Mandraki, the ancient port city of Rhodes, whose entrance is surrounded by two columns surmounted by two bronze deer, indicate the points where the legend said to be resting the foot of the Colossus.
We want to believe it even if it is not true.
Waiting for the ferry that brings children from Leipzig and Marzia wandering through the old city center.
At 16, finally, the new crew Gattadapelare is in port. I'll present: Marcia, the second of many legendary sail made with his father in this story where sea, sun, myth, legend and wind overlap, intertwine and merge to form a unique, magical, unique in what we in the Cat happily drown. Maia, girl on the threshold of youth, reflective and wise aspirant wheelhouse and, finally, his younger brother, Sebastian, passionate mooring, with peaks in constant activity, rope, sheets and knots sailors.
After dinner, Gianfranco greets us. His plane leaves early tomorrow morning and would rather spend the night at the airport. It 'been a good traveling companion and an excellent co-skipper. Certainly a "crawling", a cruiser and adaptable and sympathetic to the romantic shortcomings of this boat.
All others stay in boat. Not everyone, Gianfelice and skipper for reasons of space, sleeping in the cockpit, wrapped in sleeping bags while Rhodes is steeped in a cloak of moisture condenses and drips from the boom almost like rain, our noses detected.














Third was the crew


June 21, 2010. Rhodes-Alimia.32 miles

The boat leaves the pier, where friends greet us with the new, young crew. The children greeted the return, but their thoughts are far from the world of adults. The adventure fills their hearts and creates the seed of passion that certainly will accompany them into adulthood. The passion for long stretches, the wind on your face and in her hair, the taste of salt on the lips, in short, the love of the sea lived actively in the joy of freedom that can transmit its horizons.
We leave the port of Mandraki widening long before pointing toward Alimia. The shallow waters that go far off the eastern tip of the island to induce caution, even if possibly we could get over it without damage. But we're too lazy to go below deck to read the depth sounder. It 's more comfortable get away. We did not hurry. The calm seas and light wind lead us to carry out motor. Alimia height of the wind picks up from right to share the costs and we now proceed with the mainsail reefed left hand yesterday. When the motor stops suddenly have a moment of anguish. We immediately think to a fault, such is the distrust we have for the motor ship, but fortunately this is only the empty tank. Transfer the fuel stock - which has always two 20-liter tanks in the stern-purge the hose from the air and leave again. Now the wind is forward and the final miles are traveled slowly and effort to round up the tip that encloses a sheltered bay to the south of the island. Enter into a little 'wave and wind and we do not trust to put in the most sheltered on the anchor because there are already three boats to the wheel. But I have a hunch. The fishing boats that I saw the other times were always tied all together with a large floating rope that ends with a beacon. So there must be under a big dead body can also keep our boat. Today there are fishermen moored and we take advantage to ensure a berth safely. Knowing he could sleep without fear of drifting because of an anchor that ara, is one of the great joys of the skipper at the end of a day at the beach.

June 22, 2010. Alimia

The wind yesterday and last night stays constant. It is strong and lifts small waves inside the bay lapping on our bow. We go down to the ground with the tender and still visit the barracks of the war. We have a full day ahead of us because we do not dare go out to sea. Without children on board we would have no fear to face the sea instead that we estimate to be only moderate, but we have no reason to hurry and stay in the boat to rest not sorry. We try to fish bottom fishing and caught a fish-ball again. There are many in the boat because with their teeth continually tritacoralli we truncate the lines and, in some cases also ami.Tuttavia something good capture and is enriched with fresh fish dinner.


June 23, 2010 Alimia-Halki. 5 miles

Even today, the wind usually, but this time we do not want to passively suffer another day confined on board. We start, therefore, determined to reach Halki and face, just outside the bay, beautiful waves formed. We shall, of necessity, motor no more than three to four knots. Wind and sea right on the bow. The boat rests in the hollow of the waves picking up some nice mustache water with great joy of the children, but without splashing down to the cockpit. We see the small islands of Halki and slowly approaching the rock on the water, but left at a safe distance on our left, that seems to never move back. It 'a dangerous cliff above the sea is calm because it protrudes only a few inches above the water and at night it would not at all.
A couple of hours later we docked at the English floating dock together with five other boats.
We're going to eat under the trees in the basement of Mary and the children are happy, they are free to move around in a country with no cars. Halki does not deny its nature as a refuge for northern visitors. Everything flows with slow pace.
On the saddle of the mountain behind the village, three or four miles away, are the crumbling remains of a Venetian castle. We climb up there to visit the ghost town, abandoned in the historical period, including a pair of rebuilt homes appear on the foundations of the old. There are also traces of a recent excavation that betrays the intention of some to return to live here. For the rest see only butts wall. Not far away a few tombs of the cemetery abandoned the attack time and the weather we witness the end of a society rooted at the foot of the fort. The causes of this settlement are easily explained by the presence of the castle protecting the countryside from attacks by pirates and looters and the relative fertility of this saddle, which houses the only trees on the island. With the loss of importance of the castle due to historical changes governed by time and the consequent erosion of the centuries was abandoned and the village was abandoned. The sea is no longer the messenger of danger and instead becomes a source of wealth. That's how the "Skala", ie the village to the sea.
We leave the mountain at dusk tracing the curves and down the deserted street and in the darkness taking incipient now we approach the first lights that are lighting in the country. All is peace and quiet. Dinner with Mary.

June 24, 2010 Halki.

Today we went to the beach in front of which moored the first time we came here with the first team. Next to it a nice tavern, run by a nice young English, gives us good food and a wonderful view of the sea. We are well protected from the wind and the water is calm in front of us far as the eye turns. In the background the range profile of Rhodes is partially covered by an uninhabited island that, a mile from us, partially closes the bay. The arm of the sea, so enclosed, looks like a lake.
Because of its smallness the place is crowded, but still people who sunbathe. The tiny beach houses five or six chairs. Other chairs are on the far bank and nothing disturbs the quiet of these guests to this corner of the Aegean.
We stay until late afternoon and then return with the children in the country. I promised them ice cream to leave the mother the freedom to stay a little longer to get lost in the sweetness of the deserted beach.
E 'come to a great Italian sloop docked near us. My small hubs puts on a show moving along the bridge Gattadapelare with the naturalness of one who is accustomed to living on a boat and climbing on the tree causing trepidation in the next skipper. The calm down even after urging children not to climb higher.

June 25, 2010 Halki-Alimia 5 miles

After dissolving the tens of florets with whom Sebastian has secured a berth in the Cat at a time convenient to start with Alimia. This island until some time ago was an insignificant dot on the chart and attracted us because of its modest existence. We "crawl", always looking for landscapes dominated by nature, where contamination from tourists is low, we always knew that one day our boat will have dropped anchor, we can now say that Alima is part of the history of Gattadapelare, This now is the fourth time that we enter into its cozy bay. Are again free to float trappa of local fishermen and we bind ourselves to it with the pleasant feeling to spend a quiet night again in case of bad weather. there is no threat of deterioration. The wind is not strong and the sea is smooth. The forecast says that tomorrow we will find more air a few miles before reaching the tip of the island, and, however, favorable to us. Tomorrow we must be in Rhodes before the carnage. The day after tomorrow will Gattadapelare winged crew will melt. The skipper will return to Rome, the others will still be a bit 'under the sky greek, in Leipzig, the sweet, enchanted island of Calypso.
In the bay comes a little 'wave, but we are in the most peaceful swim and pass the time by children between the boat and the dinghy. Three other boats share with us the darkness that descends on the bay.
Let's berth in knowing that nothing will disturb our sleep.

June 24, 2010 - Alimia.Rodi. 32 miles.

When we leave the bay is a bit 'of wind from the west and decreases in intensity as soon as we leave behind and go off Alimia Venturi effect generated straight to our islands. Let us go forward with the sails and motor carriers just swollen up a little before us abeam of the island of Simi. Now the wind becomes more intense and wanting to head up to head to the city of Rhodes decide to wrap the bow while the wind aft during the maneuver. Some problems with the wing, which tends to "incaramellarsi" on the forestay, which we solve with a little 'excitement, and then here in front of our bow the whiteness of the city that is fast approaching.
When we reach the carnage we see that there is no need to moor in the reservoir too exposed to the wave that enters it. We sit there in front then on the anchor and go ashore by tender.
Dinner in town and last night together in the boat. Now feel shut our adventure on the waves of this beloved sea. From that moment our actions will be guided only by the need to rest jmettere the boat.

June 25, 2010. Rhodes.

E'domenica. The carnage is closed. There is more air coming in and we anchor in the basin of towage, hoping the weather will not change and force us to lose the wheel.
We spend the day in the city. Marcia, and children move into a hotel, I'll spend the night in the boat. À The master always the last to leave the ship.

June 26, 2010 - Rhodes-Rome

Step in the morning to fix things. The Cat is winged. I greet the crew that there is still a day to Rhodes and flight to Rome.









The poison of the puffer fish
The tetradotossina is a much more powerful than cyanide poison, takes its name from the family Tetraodontidae, Puffers, but also in Diodontidae (porcupine fish). Was isolated and named for the first time in 1909 by Japanese scientist Dr. Yoshizumi Tahara.
One milligram of tetradotossina is enough to kill a person blocks the nerve conduction causing paralysis, vomiting, diarrhea, convulsions, cardiac block.
The first recorded case of tetrodotoxin poisoning, occurs in the diary of Captain James Cook.
The first symptom of intoxication is a slight numbness of the tongue and lips, which occurs from 20 minutes to 3 hours after ingestion of poisoned fish. The next symptom is numbness of face and extremities, and may also appear headache, epigastric pain, nausea, diarrhea, vomiting, and even difficulty walking.
The second stage of intoxication is a severe paralysis, which prevents in some cases to remain seated. The last stage is the total paralysis, but does not affect cognitive abilities: the victim may be conscious and in some cases completely lucid until shortly before his death, which usually occurs in 4-6 hours, with an estimated range from 20 minutes to 8 hours.
Puffer fish and sushi: the fugu
Puffers are not usually fatal.
The fugu (puffer fish in Japan) is a proprietary very famous in Japan, and very expensive, served by chefs graduates, able to handle the meat of puffer fish poisonous removing parts (offal
The fugu is a white fish, from the delicate meat, who has tasted it is often not very satisfied ... His fame is probably more related to hazard rather than the goodness of the meat.
The puffer fish is banned in Italy since 1992. The famous case of 1977, when in Italy there were several cases of poisoning due to some code of puffer fish mistakenly inserted into a game of headless monkfish (monkfish).