Up and down along the Dodecannese.. A month on the sea of Greece

 

May 22, 2009. Bodrun

We arrived in Bodrum yesterday Gerlinde, Elke and I, after spending a night in a hotel in Kos. The city welcomed us with its fascinating layered past. Little remained of the ancient Halicarnassus. The site of one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the Mausoleum, is reached by following a series of streets and when you reach one is disappointed by what little remained of the famous tomb of King Mausolus. Traces of the Hellenistic period are scarce, but it was the birthplace of Dionysus, rhetorician and historian of Herod, a theater reminiscent of the Roman period dell'Alicarnasso while the castle of St. Peter's Knights of Rhodes with its imposing strict Christian presence on right port. The Ottoman city, whose name derives from the mispronunciation of the name Petrus. mixes with that past and comes out a really fascinating, but not only on the coast of Anatolia where different civilizations in history have occurred creating similar reality.
The depot is where our boat is a few kilometers from the city and we took a rental car for trips that many expect. In fact, go around to buy a new dinghy and outboard on, look for a laundry linen board, a carpenter to expand the berth forward, galley to do, and much,
The bazaar we reserve the disappointment of high prices compared to what we expected from the experiences of some years ago. Turkey, the least touched by tourism, is adapting to the European market. Gone the dollar and then the German mark, now reigns the euro.
To store the new marina, very nice and well organized, are at acceptable prices and the tender of the engine. Will replace those now Gattadapelare unreliable. We also buy a new process that will replace the old cup with a damaged pump. The old tender, after numerous repairs and gluing of the past is left leaning against a pine storage, suffers the same fate as the old two-stroke engine and capricious. For lack of time the process is stowed in the bow. Will be mounted at the first opportunity.


May 23, 2009 - Bodrum

Gino comes from Kos in the afternoon just in time to witness the launch. This time the operation takes place with a travel-lift quietly, very different from launching Skiathos made last year.
Mount the sails and prepare the boat for departure tomorrow. We finally did install the new furling and everything seems in order. I also replaced the bilge pump fitted with a rotating rather than leave another membrane that, like others, would soon be ruined.
The electrical system is rather weak. Position the lights do not work, but do not expect night navigation. Estimates do facticity by the yard, headed by a strong, masculine, we considered the Turkish ones, marked on the concept "you have a boat, you can pay" .. Even the jib would need some reinforcement where coprisole blue shows some scucitura. But there is no time now for small jobs. Or should we reduce the days of cruising. The choice is always the same: if it is part of safety as soon as possible.
While the "girls" (there are always "girls" despite the years pass) still sleep in the hotel. Gino and I, moored at the pier, let us rock the boat.



May 24-Cnidos Bodrum. 27 miles

The weather remains beautiful. We started, as usual not soon to reach the tip of the peninsula south of the deep bay of Kos in the end is a port visited years ago. Proceed with little wind, but the first day of sailing so we prefer a little 'confidence to return to the sea and the boat, and a bit' better to put in place. Cnidos is. interesting archaeological site. Apart from the theater by the sea and some columns and walls of public buildings, the ancient city are evident only on the terraces where stood the houses, of course wood. It was equipped with two ports, the military in the north (of which remain visible ramparts input) and the commercial south, protected from the Meltemi and wider. In a dive, years ago, we discovered three meters deep, the remains of an ancient wooden boat filled with concrete (probably part of a pier) according to a custom already in vogue at the time of Claudius, who, in developing the port Ostia, used in the same way the ship was built by Caligula for the transport of Egypt, the obelisk that is now in St. Peter's Square.
Passing the tip of the promontory of tropes, dear to Apollo, behind which is our port, we see the submerged remains of a cargo ship 'went to the rocks'.
Here before in 434 BC fierce naval battle took place: the Spartan fleet under the command of Peisandro was destroyed by the Persian fleet commanded by the Athenian Conon. Who knows how many wrecks still lying on the bottom.
Moored at the pier again that English has replaced the shaky existed previously.
We are meeting an old acquaintance, we have already nicknamed Turcoilcorto, owner of the tavern at the root of the pier and the pier itself. Of course he can not remember us, but pretends to have seen us a few weeks and we welcomed with great demonstrations of friendship (probably thinking to the collection of the eleven euro mooring and hopes to serve lobster tonight). Would definitely embrace Gerlinde, who repeatedly calls 'meine Liebe', while "she" tries desperately to escape, unsuccessfully, by the Turkish effusions.
The entrance to the excavations has also become a payment and there is not even allowed to take walks along its borders closed by wire mesh. In any attempt to stretch our legs keeper, who looks like a military, reminds us with his whistle. So space "available" is reduced to a few tens of meters around the tavern and we annoyed a lot and makes us disaffect a port that in the past, there had also fascinated by his freedom of movement inside the archaeological zone, rich in history and "Coccetti. Here was found the Venus Cnidos today the Vatican museums. It was built Sostrato.che birthplace of another of the Seven Wonders of the Lighthouse of Alexandria.
Dine without lobsters, the tavern along with several other teams. Prices "European". Then on a bunk. Tomorrow it will also be short.

From the turkish coast to Tilos

May 25, 2009-Cnidos - Island of Tilos (Greece). 16 miles.

We leave Turkey without having had the practice of exit, with the intention of returning to bring the boat in Marmaris for work on deck. It would not be allowed to cross between Greece and Turkey without all the transit-time log in Turkey, but we trust in the unlikelihood of being discovered. So after a few miles lower the better to raise the Turkish flag courtesy from the Greek softer colors, white and blue, reminiscent of the colors of the houses and sea of this earth.
Even today the wind is weak and proceed smoothly, but the question is short and we did not hurry.
On the old portolano-unofficial-that we have on board is shown na single platform on which the ferries, but on arrival we see a pier and a breakwater are clear 'no' anchor 'that tells us that the port is equipped with Trapp. We are greeted by a 'Coast Pilot' aka 'lady of the harbor,' which gives us a peak and invites us to introduce ourselves, with comfortable, harbormaster for the recording of 'arrival. The mooring is free. Livadia, the country to the sea, is small and pleasant. The bay in the bottom of which extends, is large and well protected. High hills around everywhere marked by ancient terraces. In addition to the port town offers a road along the shingle beach overlooked by low buildings used in taverns and some microscopic bar
some chairs in the sun or the shade of tamarisk trees, some grocery stores and a small square shaded three chairs occupied by kafenion. He immediately warned that the tourist visits are limited and elitist. One small British colony, many of them owners, lives for many months a year on this island. Everybody knows and greet.
We need a new valve-paid for the gas cylinder. It 'the first failure of this cruise. But here in the country if they are not. Show us a shop in the center of the island called Megalochori. With the only taxi Tilos reach this center, which, despite its name, is a small village of white houses halfway up a mountain on whose summit one can see the remains of a Venetian Kastro. In the supermarket, that name is in line with the grandiosity of these people, and that in reality is a small shop a little 'messy, are actually the desired object, otherwise rare.

Tilos May 26, 2009. Tilos.

After breakfast of coffee consumed at the port take a rental car and go back to Fira. An exploratory walk through the alleys of the town deserted us to the entrance, closed, a small museum that houses the remains of dwarf elephants disappeared in prehistoric times.). The discovery of these elephants we had already heard the harbor by an Italian gentleman, exchanged the first one of the "girls" for a purveyor of hotel with a good knowledge of the language, in fact retired surgeon, residing for some months the 'year to Livadia, which attributed their disappearance to Tzunami originated by the explosion of Santorini volcano occurred 3,500 years ago. The remains of forty of these tiny pachyderms (measured 1.50 meters in height) were found in a cave a few hundred meters of the sea. We consider unlikely that the wave has reached the height of Tzunami. Even the period of their existence (there are also skeletons were found on the island of Cyprus) is much older.
Let's go and have dinner in the tavern Livadia.

Tilos May 27, 2009

Today the wind got up. We are lazy and have no desire to face the sea even if it is not rough. Better look for a quiet beach and a seafood stuffings. Gino, our private interpreter, is to negotiate the purchase of a fishing boat just arrived in port. We hired a car and a beach on the west side of the island. We are downwind and the sea is calm.
The beach is sandy,
long, almost deserted, supported by several tamarisk assure us that the shadow.
With wreckage found on the beach our Gino creates a table and seats, really not very comfortable, but at least practical. The fish is cleaned on shore, in shallow water and many fish are around to enjoy your meal in our hands.
To clean the fish in the sea water is an operation that enhances the joy of being here in this sea and love between these Aegean islands. Every time. We can, but at least once during the cruise, we repeat this rite of barbecue on a deserted beach.
A gentle wind coming from the ground, caressing our skin and slip into sleep postprandial lying under the tamarisk.
Returning to Livadia, which is only about ten kilometers, we would like to visit Paleochora, a ruined village abandoned many years ago, but the wrong road and we clamber up a paved path, just wide enough to allow passage of a car, always board scary cliffs. There is no turning back and we have to go straight up to reach the peak, repeating the phone. Here is the chance to breathe a sigh of relief and become available to admire the beautiful landscape around and below us. The mountain is covered in rounded clumps of thyme smell the air of the Mediterranean Sea and extends to distant islands. The coast is a landscape of cliffs and coves. We and nature alone in the world. The return is just a heartbeat, and when, finally, we see from the marina and identify our boat, only then we let ourselves go back to the conversation.
In the evening, the square of coffee, an ice-cream. Are gathered here in regular guests of the island. Everywhere I hear English.

from Tilos to Nisiros

May 28, 2009. Tilos.

We stay one more day on this island. The wind is still annoying and girls, accustomed always to sail with little wind, thanks to the intercession of Poseidon, prefer to hang around here. In ancient inhabitants, together with those of Rhodes, founded the colony of Gela in Sicily. But to remain in mythological theme: Tilos was the teacher of the little grandson Zeus during his upbringing on Crete. He found here that the miracle herbal cure his sick mother and he, out of gratitude, he built a temple to Apollo and Poseidon. There is no trace of the temple, but there is archaeological evidence that the Minoans and Cretans have settled here around 1500 BC. After the Athenians, the Romans was the domain of the Knights of Rhodes, then later the Turks. The locals were forced to retreat to live in the mountains to escape the attacks of pirates and the raids of the Turks, and no longer moved from the mountains until the nineteenth century. After thirty years of Italian occupation in 1946 returned to being Greek.





May 29-2009.Tilos Nysiros. 18 miles.

The weather remains beautiful. The wind fell yesterday and when we leave the bay of Livadia we find him forward. We have to go motor. Nysiros is clearly seen in front of us with their profile of the volcano. Immediately behind the long coast of Kos. At our beam to starboard, the promontory of Cnidos.
The coast is everywhere strongly Nysiros slopes, with occasional sandy beaches or pebbles blacks. Unlike the Tilos this tree is rather a sort of oak modest height, but from very large acorns.
We pass a marina, Palo, home to many yachts, but we continue following the information in our pilot book, Mandraki to the port where cruise ships dock, about a mile and a half further north. Moored at anchor. Only two other boats near us.
Nysiros is an extinct volcano with fumarole activity and attracts many visitors from Kos, one hour away by ferry. We rent a car and climb to the edge the wide crater. Below us is a plain that resembles, in miniature, that of Ngor Ngor, except that instead of exotic animals are feral goats fleeing as we passed. A hut, with functions and bars the resale of souvenirs, comfort us with cold drinks. A steep dirt track leading to the lower part of the crater and active. Everywhere small fumaroles and sulfur smell. At the center of the clearing some big holes grumbling glimpse of boiling mud.
We climb on the edge of the cone to reach the village. Nikia. Here we are approached by an elderly but well-preserved village in a discreet Italian tells the story of his life and his family. His mother, who died centenarian, still remembered the time of Turkish rule the island. Many brothers and many children to constitute much of the population of the tiny country. Reach the central square after a few steps from the church collection, a kafenion and a tavern. Everything is small. Sitting at the table in the coffee we drink a glass of wine and allow ourselves to go to Greece this pleasant yet genuine. From the margins of the country so look over the top of the caldera and the sea, we can see the horizon and the nearby island of Tilos Astypalea. Beautiful and unique scenarios that make us think about how lucky we are to enjoy it as well, a couple of hours flight from home, away from the crowd and the flatness of the fashionable resorts.
We return to Mandraki. The country stretches along the coast north of the island. The road along the sea and is protected by an artificial reef immediately behind, is full of small taverns. We choose one that seems the most genuine and eat accompanied by the sound of waves breaking a few feet below.

da Nisiros a Kos

May 30, 2009. Nysiros-Kos-20 miles.

We leave the island with a slight wind to the garden, that makes us slide gently towards Kos, past the white island of Gyalo, a veritable mountain of pumice used as a quarry
Shortly after we reach the volcanic cone Spongili, which rises, steeply from the sea over which the wind shall cease to go. From now proceed motor to the tip of the island of Kos. Here. the Venturi effect, the wind strengthens and follows the strait between the island and the Turkish coast which is only six miles. The marina of Kos has recently built large and comfortable, provided essential services to those giving up unnecessary, such as the fitness gym or swimming pool in Bodrum Kusadasi. We spend the afternoon in a city where we have dinner.

May 31, 2009. Kos

Gino again today and left us with great greetings from taxi driving him to the airport. We were without our interpreter, especially without the cheerful readiness with which enlivens the traditional week of cruising with the "girls". For the language we'll manage with inadequate knowledge of greek skipper, that the writer, but the company of our friend will be missed. The Navy officer responsible for inspection of vessels entering has called us together to fulfill a series of red tape. In all these years of sailing in Greece is the first time we undergo an inspection. We are thus forced to bring us to the port for entry visas.
Kos is too turisticizzata especially Scandinavian-to-be enjoyed by us, but it is very interesting. The capital, the same name, with a beautiful harbor, numerous caiques base, protected by ancient walls of Castro gerolosomitiano, is rich in ancient ruins that rise from a few meters deep. Kos was the birthplace of Hippocrates, and he, in a park, is a beautiful bronze sculpture that depicts him as his knowledge to a group of fellow citizens. There is also a centenarian plane tree under whose shadow it is said, taught his disciples the art of medicine. Traces of the governorate building major Italian is evident. A beautiful square with a market of fruit and spices, is also adorned with a small mosque with a minaret unfailing testimony also of the Turkish occupation. Streets full of the usual souvenir shops, a few local noisy, restaurants everywhere.
Take a car and go explore the island. It 's interesting but not exciting. From the top of a mountain town, sitting at the table on the balcony of a tavern in the village of Zia, we admire a beautiful panorama of sea and islands. We should be accustomed by now to these scenarios, but it is not. Whenever the mind is open to the beauty of the Aegean Sea. Before us a series of islands and Pserimos behind Kalymnos, the island of sponges, Leros and then, finally, barely visible, Leipzig.
Coming back we stop to visit the remains dell'Esculapion, the "general hospital" of antiquity. In the monumental setting of the complex, the archaeological remains are scarce.



1 June 2009 - Kos

The "girls" go home, one in Rome, the other in Vienna. Left alone, waiting for the new crew consists of Marcia and the little Sebastian. Spend time seeking out swinging with a kitchen oven to replace the old and dilapidated. This year is the year of renovations on the glorious Gattadapelare. I also have a new boom cover complete with boat name that mounts to impress Marcia when she comes tomorrow .. The kitchen is not now. Arrive in a few days to coincide with our return to Kos to collect Gianfranco.
I go back to the office of the harbormaster to give entry visas. The naval officer make me sign some papers and asked me to go into town to pay a sort of parking fee of 29 euros. The tax office where I go like in all respects to an Italian in a small town. The phrase constantly repeated by the Greeks when they know you "same face the same race" could be replaced with "the same office the same race" spend the rest of the day doing odd jobs to Gatta.

2.giugno 2009. Kos

I'll be back at the office of the Harbour where The receipt of payment. The officer handed me a document on which I will have to punch in every port of arrival of the boat with the craw-list updated. I think is missing one of which I sailed happy for all these years, that of freedom from bureaucratic constraints, fiscal controls, and anything else invented to embitter the boat owner.
In my heart I'm already a rebel anarchist. I do not think that I "remember" to fulfill the formalities you show.
Marcia arrive in the afternoon with the little Sebastian four years that just boarded the critical state of repair of the teak deck. And 'So it' s time you do the work planned for so long. The idea is to get to Marmaris in Turkey where we have a contact, but in Kos we have proposed, at very affordable price, another material - almost compressed cork-quite similar to teak and is also fitted with strips with rubber seams. Tell me more about this material and refer the decision until later. The estimate made in Bodrum was much more expensive but probably cheaper to do the same work done in Italy.
The day is spent wandering around Kos.

da Kos a Tilos

3 June 2005 - Kos

This morning we were ready to leave, but just outside the harbor, we encountered a strong headwind that made us turn back after a few miles.
Another day spent hanging out around the city.


June 4, 2005-Kos - Kormen (Turkey) - 16 miles

May 30, 2009. Nysiros-Kos-20 miles.

We leave the island with a slight wind to the garden, that makes us slide gently towards Kos, past the white island of Gyalo, a veritable mountain of pumice used as a quarry
Shortly after we reach the volcanic cone Spongili, which rises, steeply from the sea over which the wind shall cease to go. From now proceed motor to the tip of the island of Kos. Here. the Venturi effect, the wind strengthens and follows the strait between the island and the Turkish coast which is only six miles. The marina of Kos has recently built large and comfortable, provided essential services to those giving up unnecessary, such as the fitness gym or swimming pool in Bodrum Kusadasi. We spend the afternoon in a city where we have dinner.

May 31, 2009. Kos

Gino again today and left us with great greetings from taxi driving him to the airport. We were without our interpreter, especially without the cheerful readiness with which enlivens the traditional week of cruising with the "girls". For the language we'll manage with inadequate knowledge of greek skipper, that the writer, but the company of our friend will be missed. The Navy officer responsible for inspection of vessels entering has called us together to fulfill a series of red tape. In all these years of sailing in Greece is the first time we undergo an inspection. We are thus forced to bring us to the port for entry visas.
Kos is too turisticizzata especially Scandinavian-to-be enjoyed by us, but it is very interesting. The capital, the same name, with a beautiful harbor, numerous caiques base, protected by ancient walls of Castro gerolosomitiano, is rich in ancient ruins that rise from a few meters deep. Kos was the birthplace of Hippocrates, and he, in a park, is a beautiful bronze sculpture that depicts him as his knowledge to a group of fellow citizens. There is also a centenarian plane tree under whose shadow it is said, taught his disciples the art of medicine. Traces of the governorate building major Italian is evident. A beautiful square with a market of fruit and spices, is also adorned with a small mosque with a minaret unfailing testimony also of the Turkish occupation. Streets full of the usual souvenir shops, a few local noisy, restaurants everywhere.
Take a car and go explore the island. It 's interesting but not exciting. From the top of a mountain town, sitting at the table on the balcony of a tavern in the village of Zia, we admire a beautiful panorama of sea and islands. We should be accustomed by now to these scenarios, but it is not. Whenever the mind is open to the beauty of the Aegean Sea. Before us a series of islands and Pserimos behind Kalymnos, the island of sponges, Leros and then, finally, barely visible, Leipzig.
Coming back we stop to visit the remains dell'Esculapion, the "general hospital" of antiquity. In the monumental setting of the complex, the archaeological remains are scarce.



1 June 2009 - Kos

The "girls" go home, one in Rome, the other in Vienna. Left alone, waiting for the new crew consists of Marcia and the little Sebastian. Spend time seeking out swinging with a kitchen oven to replace the old and dilapidated. This year is the year of renovations on the glorious Gattadapelare. I also have a new boom cover complete with boat name that mounts to impress Marcia when she comes tomorrow .. The kitchen is not now. Arrive in a few days to coincide with our return to Kos to collect Gianfranco.
I go back to the office of the harbormaster to give entry visas. The naval officer make me sign some papers and asked me to go into town to pay a sort of parking fee of 29 euros. The tax office where I go like in all respects to an Italian in a small town. The phrase constantly repeated by the Greeks when they know you "same face the same race" could be replaced with "the same office the same race" spend the rest of the day doing odd jobs to Gatta.

2.giugno 2009. Kos

I'll be back at the office of the Harbour where The receipt of payment. The officer handed me a document on which I will have to punch in every port of arrival of the boat with the craw-list updated. I think is missing one of which I sailed happy for all these years, that of freedom from bureaucratic constraints, fiscal controls, and anything else invented to embitter the boat owner.
In my heart I'm already a rebel anarchist. I do not think that I "remember" to fulfill the formalities you show.
Marcia arrive in the afternoon with the little Sebastian four years that just boarded the critical state of repair of the teak deck. And 'So it' s time you do the work planned for so long. The idea is to get to Marmaris in Turkey where we have a contact, but in Kos we have proposed, at very affordable price, another material - almost compressed cork-quite similar to teak and is also fitted with strips with rubber seams. Tell me more about this material and refer the decision until later. The estimate made in Bodrum was much more expensive but probably cheaper to do the same work done in Italy.
The day is spent wandering around Kos.

We leave the marina of Kos direct Cnidos, but just outside the Strait the wind as he had descended to the garden, turned and started coming from the direction of the route. So not to face several miles upwind to keep it sideways and head on a port on the Turkish coast. The pilot's book shows it as a safe anchorage, but does not tell us anything about the characteristics of the host. When after a couple of hours sailing we arrive we discover a long breakwater behind which, at its root, a simple and inviting tavern tables almost pushes to the edge of the dock. There are three other boats and a gulet. Around any house. To make an ice cream we walk for a long paved road that seems to bring in any place. Rare house, but no country in sight. After a couple of miles are a sort of shop-bar and hot, we decided to go no further. The owner sits outside and is engaged in crocheting with a vague smile on his face, comes an old woman and the two begin to talk amongst themselves. Incomprehensible language than Turkish, remember that the phrase "but I speak turkish?" Which is used when one wants to blame a child who does not want ubbidire.Un kid watching us protected from the trunk of a tree, a group of women with their colored shirt and wide trousers, while not hiding the fat body, and stop intervening in the conversation. We see everything and do not feel at home, as, instead, occurs when we are in Greece, where, despite not understanding a few words, we are banded in the "same side".
The basement should be well known in the region and attended by local VIPs. In fact people come for dinner.

da Kormen a Nisiros

The basement should be well known in the region and attended by local VIPs. Fact, arrive for dinner characters greeted with respectful compliance by the owner. Perhaps "bigwig?
We eat at a table in front of the boat and pay an exaggerated account. This Turkey is no longer what it once!


June 5, 2009 - Kormen-Tilos. 25 miles.

He returned to Greece. We leave the port of Kormen early morning with a totally calm sea. The Turkish coast that we parade a few hundred yards on the left is mountainous and uninhabited. Very nice! The usual parade of islands everywhere we look. Tilos and Nysiros front Kos on the right. And then, once past the headland of tropes, behind which hides Cnidos, here appear on the left, away, Simi and more moved west profile of Rhodes. Raise the mainsail to catch a bit 'air, but the engine stays on. Sebastian, four years, with mirrored sun glasses, bandana, arms behind his head, legs crossed and lying in the well and seems to appreciate much navigation. He learned to do simple knot and is proud to show to his dad, when it comes, the concepts of marine learned. We'll make a good sailor. Encountering Tilos wind strengthens a little and comes far downwind, which allows us to go sailing, albeit slowly.
I tell Marcia that he knew the previous stop in Arezzo Tilos a doctor and remember to have heard from a mutual friend. It will be the same person?. At Tilos, incidentally, is these days Astrid, a friend of Marcia, already known in Leipzig.
Moored as usual in the small, cozy, port of Livadia and spend several hours on pebble beach bathing with clear water and fresh.
Later we meet Astrid returning from a boat trip around the island. Astrid, Swedish birth and look deeply in love with the sun and the Mediterranean sea, just the demands of work and life can turn him to the Greek Islands where he made more new friends. And it shows us John, an English high and dry, owner of a halfway house, accessible only by foot, (panting quietly not to give in to the son of Albion), where they can enjoy a beautiful view over the gulf.
We meet again the Italian doctor and find out who is actually a friend of mutual friends and to make the game even stranger case, the doctor of a relative of Astid.
We all eat in a tavern on the seafront, where, in passing, we saw a goat on a spit turning.

June 6, 2009. Tilos-Nysiros. 18 miles

Gattadapelare has become like one of those boats used for sightseeing. Back to Nysiros (and will not be the last time) But this island is convenient to break the case for Kos, where day after arriving with Gianfranco Maja.
Today the wind, weak against. These are days which blows from the west. The sea is choppy and the face, motor, bow. Sebastian continues to be completely at ease on board.
This time we anchor in the harbor of Palo that I had seen looking down the road to the crater at the port prior to Nysiros. I was very good, certainly better than Mandraki little protected from the winds of the first and second quadrant. This port is home to numerous boats and several taverns and face the square. The shops, however, lacking. No water in the dock (yet), no fuel but there are columns with the sockets for the power. We do not find a rental car cost, and we do not find an operator friendly, so I offer to walk on Mandrake (seven kilometers) hoping, however, on a ride. Very confident about the availability of Greek and in fact am not disappointed. The first attempt are collected by an elderly couple of villagers with whom he engaged in a lame conversation. Not just missing the statement "one face, one race" which is a variant of "same face the same race."
I like the Greeks, they feel genuinely our friends, despite our military assault in November 1940.
Panos to car, which now I consider myself old customer, I find that there is another at stake. I had not seen, but it will be convenient to leave the car tonight.
We go into the crater to show Sebastian, then go back to go to the village of Nikia. I want to again review the square and share them with Marzia 'Greeks' of the place. In fact, sitting at a table of kafenion are three men and a woman. Are locals, known for a lifetime, yet still have something to tell. Quietly, with great breaks, they speak in turns and occasionally laughing at a few anecdotes, repeated countless times in other similar meetings.
One of them speaks to us in a rusty Italian, a legacy of going to elementary school during the period when the Italian was part of the Dodecanese. We learn that in plain inside the crater had developed a small airport. Also tells us funny stories and tragic war, when German soldiers and Italian allies, occupied the country and how they got drunk with wine "made" by a greek enterprising. And then, after September 8, the tragic days of clashes between former allies. I had already heard similar stories years ago in Leros and is thus renewed awareness that these islands and these seas, we "crawled" so loved, were for others, at other times, places of suffering and death.
Coming back we go to visit another small village, Emborios other side of the crater. Few houses, none for the road, and sweeping views of the crater floor, the tavern where we consumed a drink. There is also a sauna-cave, as in Pozzuoli. Sebastian will be impressed.
You can dine at the same tavern where I had been the first time with the first crew of this cruise. Same atmosphere and same sound of waves on the reef. In the darkness one can see the lights of Kos.

Nisiros - Kos - Tilos

June 6, 2009. Nysiros-Kos. 20 miles.

Let's wind retracing a route already known. As usual, entered the strait between Kos and the Turkish coast, we encounter headwind. We slalom between a group of surfers in the race, which arouse the interest of the small hub, shortly after arriving at the entrance to the marina.
The kitchen door is reached, the inbarco and hold the bow together with the toilet bowl waiting to find time to mount. It 's funny that two objects created to satisfy conflicting needs are tied to the same fate.
Gianfranco Maja comes with the small, but already a veteran of five years Gattadapelare. After the joy of the two brothers, Sebastian and poses as an expert explains to his sister and father to act as in boat.
After the night on the town go back to sleep in the Cat. Tomorrow we leave.

June 7, 2009. Kos-Tilos. 30 miles

Let's start with the intention of achieving Cnidos. Do not breathe a breath of wind. Leaving the narrow sea is totally devoid of ripples. There are conditions for a swim off and propose a break with great enthusiasm of the crew. Tie a rope with knots floating 'slotted' every two meters and the first to go down into the water by ladder. Gianfranco following me and the children-their-equipped with arms while the mother stays in the boat just in case. Bathing off is exciting and a bit 'disturbing. When you look 'under' the look does not go beyond an intense blue, into which the imagination imagines dangers vague ancestral legs are preserved on the surface because 'who knows what might touch down there'. So once they enter the sea feels like putting an early. The children, untouched by certain prejudices, enjoy relaxed.
Changed his mind and decide to get to Tilos for a day pass by the island picnic on the beach, we go. However, in the promontory of Cnidos to show children the wreck of the ship.
In the latter part of the journey, when we are near the island, meet the wind moderated and the slack that finally reminds us that we are on a sailboat.


June 8, 2009. Tilos.

We go to the same beach and in the same place where I was with Gino and the "girls".
The rudimentary table and seats built by Gino are still in place. The beach, deep and long, deserted, A gentle breeze caresses and the sea is slightly choppy. An idyllic place and a moment, but not uncommon for us lucky "crawled" which, except for an old and problematic boat elargitrice of daily failures, we navigate in this sea port, like Ulysses, on many islands where we would be prisoners Ogygia indefinitely.
You bathe in clear water and invigorating, and friend.
We did not find to buy fish and grill and we have to settle for pale slices of chicken.
But food, flavored by the grill and served with cold retzina is, however, ate with taste ..
While we listen to the poignant melodies hot item Alexiou-our most popular Greek singer-slip gently into slumber. The children run on the foreshore.
We return to town and spend the rest of the day without haste or other programs.

From Tilos to Kos

June 9, 2009. Tilos-Nysiros. 18 miles.

Gattadapelare for this route is now commonplace. It 's the third time in days that takes it and always under conditions of wind and sea. It comes from the Gulf of Tilos and meets weaker headwind and bow wave. Gattadapelare continues to behave this year. Until now there has concerns. Everything seems to work.
Moored in the same port of Palo and the rest of the crew back to visit the crater, which has not yet been seen by Maja and dad, I talent to replace both the toilet bowl to the kitchen overhead. Normally when I am doing some work, will face difficulties, do not always have the right tools or parts needed, but this is a lucky year. The return of the hikers communicate with pride that all the basic needs of the 'crew' can be fully met. You go to visit Mandraki. The country stretches over two parallel roads to the sea along the shore and the other a domestic terminating against a high cliff dominated by a monastery. From these short branch on side streets, overlooked by houses to one-two planes whose main entrance is located higher than the level stradale.Esso opens onto a landing, variously decorated with the classic mosaic made of the Dodecanese breccole black and white. From the landing, usually without a railing, descend with steep steps on the road. The urban fabric is very pleasant and willing to turn the streets and squares until the arrival of the dark. You can dine at the usual tavern. In return the machine to ask as we approach greek information in our possession by a tractor (see: restaurant owner) who discovers true Venetian. Nicely we have with him that gives us different information on people and places, indicating a good point on the south coast where you can do tomorrow bath and picnic. Do not want to be paid for the drink and let us like old friends. Buy down the road two 'Pescioni' to be grilled squid and the next day ..

June 10, 2009. Nysiros.

Day at sea lived on land. Following the directions given us by the tractor yesterday we went Nikia and they descended to the sea. The road that leads us down enough to pass a car and an endless succession of hairpin unroll bushes in bloom, scented with thyme and broom. The view is amazing. Tilos is distant from us a couple of miles and the stretch of sea that divides us is very blue, on whose surface the wind, a little more intense in the Strait to the Venturi effect creates momentary ripples shaped crescent, which fleeing vanish. .
When you finally reach the bottom we find a church, a couple of small uninhabited buildings and the ruins of others. No other person on the spot. Here was the port town of Nikia, that the white top of the sparse oak trees. Indeed a sturdy pier close to a sea port shallow, like a pool, which invites us to swim. A little higher we find a bench and a plank in the shade of a tree here and arrange the coals for grilling fish. Another day to remember with nostalgia the days of confusing and tiring city spends serene family harmony. Returning to the boat we take twigs of thyme.

June 11, 2009 Nysiros-Kos, 20 miles.

We return to Kos. Tomorrow there will be a change of crew. It 'time to praise. Small hubs have had this experience on a boat with fun and enjoyable participation. Sebastian has performed 'complicated' sailors knots, observed with great interest the operations Anchor: Maja was climbing the tree, dismissed the fenders, he learned from brother to raise her arms and crossing her legs in imitation of the typical greek dancing (but, apparently, that really is not typical). Both behaved as true 'crawled' and danced the Sirtaki. His father, proud, has never ceased to be moved. Certainly this experience of the sea will remain in their memories and in their hearts, and perhaps will affect their future existence. It 's the best gift we could do them, rooted in the love of the sea lived with the wind on your face and splashing water in his ears.
The marina now has no place. Many boats are coming to a race, so we are forced to seek a berth in the port of Kos. We find a convenient platform to the right, English, at the end of the promenade. We are the only ones to be moored there, the same spot where he found Gattadapelare place in September with other boats. Across the harbor, under the walls of the castle of the Knights of Rhodes, there is a mooring fee, very busy. On that side there are the departures of ferries for Turkey and for the islands.
The afternoon is intended for the luggage of departing and the recent purchase of 'thoughts' to bring friends.
After dinner, returning to the boat, there are many fishermen on the dock of the barrel. They do not seem very lucky, but certainly very optimistic.

From Kos to Leros

June 12, 2009. Kos-Leros. 26 miles.

Terrible night - I shall, strange, traveling companions. Apparently, (I slept without noticing anything) that there has been much chatter and noise of cars speeding along the seafront. Expect the arrival of Gianfranco, Polo said, not to confuse it with that in mind. We are curious to meet him. Polo (is the account. Internet) is a knowledge 'media' in the sense that he had responded to my ad on Velanet when I tried cruise lines. We do not know his physical appearance and we meet on the boat. Pending its arrival, expected this morning, we go to breakfast at a cafe, until his sms alerts us that the new purchase Gattadapelare on board.
The presentation takes place informally and quickly establishes the spontaneous warmth that is characteristic of those who share the same passion for the sea. Spend a week together. This crew should have four elements, but there have been defections last minute. It 's a common thing when we organize cruises so much that I would be tempted to use the next time, to overbooking. The last arriving likely to remain grounded. I imagine the faces of the unfortunate (and perhaps also of my following their reaction). So we will divide the two spaces of Cat. The Alpa 11.50 everywhere collect appreciation for the pleasantness of his line and, for experts, for its reliability in all sea conditions, but all at the expense of interior space. Approved for eight people is comfortable for four but not for companions with a buon.grado adaptability.
The departing ferry to the island of Lipsi other side of the harbor and warm greetings we leave with the certainty to meet again soon in Leipzig. The idea is to stop this evening in an inlet of Kalymnos Lipsi and continue tomorrow.
After purchasing ice Now let Kos meet wind and waves well formed contrary to our course and proceed laboriously motor. Climb the Aegean is often difficult. The prevailing wind, the Meltemi blows from the north-west for eight days out of ten, but this time of year rarely exceeds 15-20 knots. However you go or upwind or motor. The real sailor chooses the former, but when you have to travel many miles in a short time is less sporty. Gianfranco, Polo said, proves to be a good buy for Gattadapelare. While not knowing moves ls safety and competence of those who go to sea for a long time, then, overcome Pserimos island inhabited by only 35 people and a beautiful bay on the east coast, just after you reach Kalymnos, famous for its collection of sponges. Guidance navigation, convinced to trace the 'cove where Palionissos ormeggiai already in the past and near which, within, there is a tavern. The owner, a little 'fishers of sponges, some' elementary school teacher, speaks Italian. He told me that until a few years ago lived in the cramped valley some thirty families of fishermen. House, worthy of the name, not saw, at most small buildings similar to stores for tools. No electricity, no roads, no water. but a small source at high altitude. The men went away for six months a year to fish for sponges also reaching the African coast, while women raising children and goats. Once a week climbed on the saddle of the mountain and, after a morning walk. reached the island's capital where they sold the few cheeses produced
Navigate to my vision has always led in the wrong place, and this time I continue to seek access as long as the inlet Kalymnos ends with the narrow strait that separates it from Leros. It is too late to go back and it must continue to address the bow waves of up to Pandeli, the small sheltered fishing port on the southern coast of Leros.
The last leg is strenuous, it moves very slowly and began to feel tired. When, finally, we get no place in the small port occupied by fishing boats, they manage to pity any fisherman and dock near them. So it remains outside the wheel. Filiamo hundred feet of chain that is not enough, and soon we realize that the cat away. The wind blows from land and therefore would not have created, in his sleep, great difficulty but to find ourselves in the open sea. However not a pleasant experience. The second time filiamo whole chain, 50 meters and we are observing the behavior of the boat under gust. This time we are clinging to the bottom well, and after a frugal dinner, we went in their bunks.
During the night I wake up a few times to check. It 'a habit I can not suppress even with calm seas and wind away.

From Leros to Levitha

June 13, 2009. Leros-Lipsi 11 miles

Let's just cute without going ashore. Once dubbed the promontory dominated by the ruins of the castle-monastery gerolosomitiano meet a more rough sea yesterday and a good wind bow. Advancing with maddening slowness. Sighting the landmarks on the coast seems to be firm. After three hours of splashes and foam enter in the wide bay of Lipsi the end of which rests the country and our dock. Are placed at anchor with the stern to the wind, well secured with strong ropes. There are several boats, including two Italian flag. Whenever we return to this lovely island are more and more visitors. I remember that only five years ago, during the same period, the place was tied to English.
Lipsi, the island of Calypso, but maintaining its quiet charm. Far from mass tourism, has a small colony of Italians who are here have bought or built houses, all white and not strictly higher than two floors. Although the Dodecanese island, (again the old still speak Italian learned in school), style of homes is Cycladic. The island is small, but with everything, including the sewage treatment plant. A guarantee of the purity of its beaches. Indeed, the beaches are few and small, but uncrowded, at least this season.
In Leipzig we review Marzia, Gianfranco and children Maja and Sebastian, who came here to rest after adventures Gatteschi "last week. We would like to continue for the island of Marathi, which represents for me a landing repeatedly dreamed bige in winter days, but wind and sea invite us to sail. The wind is stronger and arrive in port gusts to 50 knots. The flags of the boats are so strained that seem stiff on patarazzi. Strengthen the peaks and aft, just in case, let's also a stud. English nearby, unperturbed in the cockpit, is immersed in reading. We spend the day hanging out, without haste and without precise goals and lazy, let us capture, like Ulysses, by the magic of this island.


June 14, 2009. Lipsi-Marathi. 7 miles

Today the weather is better. The wind of yesterday has become almost a breeze and allows us to give up their moorings. We leave the bay and there is only eight miles off the island of Patmos Chora dominated by white, the upper town built around the gray fortress-monastery built in 1080 by the Church of Constantinople. The whiteness of Chora is like a beacon for sailors: it can be seen wherever you surf here. Dubbed the high west coast of Lipsi and behind it leads some islands between which we must be careful because of the shallow water.
Marathi is like always inviting. A narrow strip of sand shaded by tamarisk at the foot of the barren hill, a couple of tavernas on the shore and no other sound to the goats and chickens.
Mikalis invites us, as always, to moor at its pier.
We spend the rest of the day listening to the music of Mikalis and observe the sea and other boats moored on buoys.





June 15, 2009. Marathi-Levitha. 25 miles.

Let's start with light winds in the mid morning. The route today offers us the crosswind and would like a bit 'over the air to detoxify' smotorata 'the last two days.
The crossing takes place without any emotion. Head at the southern tip of Patmos and soon after, the haze can be seen in silhouette of Levitha. Quest'isolotto is strategically located on the route towards the Cyclades and its importance over the millennia is given by the deep bay, almost a fjord, sheltered from every sea and every wind. The remains. a Castro or a temple that dominated access to the landing, are barely visible in the confusion of rocks. In summer it is inhabited by one family that has placed the dead bodies for which you pay seven euros. In addition to this task, the inhabitants are devoted to pasture and run a small tavern not far from the landing. It can be reached by a path vaguely drawn between the stones. A few thorny bushes are all the vegetation. So do we, we are left with a couple of other crews to dine with Stavros, returning to the stony path, seeking a safe place for the foot in the dark of night.

From Levitha to Amorgos

June 16, 2009. Levita-Amorgos. 46 miles.

Let Levite that almost all other boats, a dozen have already left. We take it comfortably. Now the appointment with the new crew is two days of sailing and the weather looks good. The cool wind comes from satisfied to browse through and Gattadapelare Amorgos, an island favorite with me and my daughter Marcia. Amorgos, high cliffs overlooking the blue sea and its depth is little known by the aggressive tourism and leisure facilities. No coffee here with upholstered armchairs, souvenir shops full of trinkets, pretentious boutique, watercraft, umbrella, rock music, nightclubs, fast food and maybe even a McDonald's. The country 'low' Katapola, the capital, home to a dock for mooring boats and ferries. It offers the crews of boats that stop some taverns and a few stores, a couple of small hotels and essential services. The Chora, a small and pretty, has a typical square as a focal point in the shade of a mulberry Greek collection. From the southern white and lonely monastery Chozoviotissa seems to have been spread on the rock by hand gigantesca.Amorgos is an island of the Aegean for tasters.
After passing the island of Kinatos the wind strengthens and compels us to reduce the haze, when we face at the eastern tip of Amorgos, then take a decision regret. I choose to go that route leeward island, albeit a bit 'longer, gives us a less agitated sea. Remember too late that I have read that the winds can down the mountains with increased violence. In fact the next few hours we put to the test. We keep the boat a couple of miles from the coast where the waves begin to rise, but where we are less exposed to gusts descendants. However, the violence of the wind, we estimate that under gust between 40 and 50 knots pulls water from the sea surface and we threw it angrily in the eye. Are forced to put his diving mask when I'm at the helm. La Gatta behaves very well and does not pose any problem. After an endless path and reach the western tip of the island, following the route of a vessel, we went in the narrow passage between an island and thus entering the tip, in the maritime area upwind Amorgos. Here the conditions are better, the sea is rough, but the wind is very strong. I regret the choice fatta.la morning. Finally we reach the creek at the bottom of which is Katapola and mooring anchor with the stern lines ashore. We are tired and happy calm that now prevails in the cockpit. The pleasure of relaxing after a busy shipping, with a glass of ouzo in hand, is one of the joys that can make the boat sea lovers.
Dine by boat and go to sleep.

From Amorgos to Naoussa (Paros)

June 17, 2009. Amorgos, Paros (Naoussa). 60 miles (instead of 41)

The windlass is in distress. It seemed too good, until now. Aliamo forty meters of chain and head north. Exit from the bay yesterday and found the wind and the sea at forecastle. Unfortunately we can not avoid going to the leeward islands of the Lesser Cyclades, we can enlarge it so close on the left, the island of Skinussa. He repeats the story yesterday. Keros under the wind is bad again and sketches we face sting. The waxed barely manages to keep us dry.
Pass Keros, appear a few miles away and the island of Ano-Kato-Koufonisi and gusts are less arrogant. When we reach the southern tip of Naxos and we put in the strait between Paros island and the wind and the sea, as expected, you have to force us to put forward and the engine. We do not want to windward to Naoussa. But the subsequent failure is lurking, just minutes after a burning smell warns us that the engine belt broke. Never mind, before leaving I had a quick look over the material in the locker and I saw another belt, but when I pick up I realize that this is an old belt kept because 'boat is not never thrown away nothing that could serve '. We hope that holds for a couple of hours. But, after just ten minutes a new smoke tells us that this too is gone. I had been monitoring the light-jet cooling water to discover now that the impeller is not moved by the belt. There is no choice but to rely on the wind and upwind. So do it for hours and hours earning a little water every turn. While beginning to get dark and the lights of the countries on the shores of two islands, we are still just over halfway through. The wind is decreasing and begin to move slowly. It is now certain that we will be at the opening of the bay of Naoussa, Paros, with the darkness and we can not cut between many small islands that are gathering in the southern part dell'imbocco because, remember, there are shallow and rocky outcrops. Each turn brings us to the right towards the city of Naxos, whose lights are now visible, and there seems to gain a lot of water. The wind is weak and now we make only during the brief and increasingly rare gusts. In the glow of the sky in sight distance profile of the islet of the small outer islands we have double to head away with water inlet of the bay. Hours go by and our progress has been limited. When you finally reach the island we can not turn to your right. Are now two o'clock and the wind is reduced to a dribble. Whenever we approach the coast to the island the boat does not obey the helm and more spontaneously 'yaw' away, always exhausting slowly, without gaining a yard of water. We see the lights of Mykonos and also hear the pounding of the engines of large ships direct glowing lights in the strait between Paros and Naxos. Are now three in the morning and eighteen hours, we alternate the engine. Gianfranco fell asleep in the cockpit and left to curse me weak against Gattadapelare that no longer feels the helm. So we are now resigned to spend the night dragged by the current and fate. Then a gust of wind comes to our rescue with a meager headway dubbed the islet. We are just a few meters from the rocks on which the wave breaks long we hear the lapping hardly reassuring. I try to start a few seconds and earn a bit 'over water, but the starter is locked. Praying that before us there is a rock strewn continue to advance. Now we have before us the sea free of obstacles. The lighthouse located on the headland to our right there indicates the entrance to the bay of Naoussa and the lights can be glimpsed at the bottom of it. Without engine and windlass without will not have no choice but to put the wheel in front Monastiri, a beach just after the entrance into a protected bay in the mountains, on a sandy bottom, where in the past I had the opportunity to anchor. Here comes the wind, cool and garden. The Cat finally begins to run, too much for the maneuver that we do. When, finally, rounding the cape and head towards the beach at the foot of the relief is dominated by the lighthouse, the wind comes in gusts from the intense beam interspersed with moments of absolute calm. There are already several boats at anchor in the dark and we see scope to put in the middle of the two most spaced. Wrapped with the mainsail reefed jib and we are approaching a moment of almost calm wind the boat more upwind. Gianfranco anchor line, I loose the mainsail and at that moment arrives a violent gust. Gattadapelare drift rapidly toward the leeward boat. Our voices, until then whispered to avoid disturbing other teams, we are excited: "Gloves Gianfranco, gloves, fenders ... fast ... let's hit ...." And in the sleepy eyes and lost the British skipper, released from his boat to our cries, the cat stops two feet from her, and begins to depart from weapon. It is four o'clock in the morning. We're awake for twenty hours.
Without even talking to us stuck in cubicles, but it is not over yet. The plowing is still, it seems. I ask how much the chain has made and Gianfranco replied that he saw four knots of wool (use of red wool tied to the chain to indicate the amount in water). Damn, I have just twenty yards, at a depth of six. I go out again on deck and do more chain. But it is a mistake, the four nodes indicate that the chain is in the water for forty-five feet, almost all praticamene. And it leaves the eye that ensures top textile chain to the boat. Too weak to not tear under gust grab, then, the chain and scream Gianfranco out to help me. Can not hear me (later confessed that he believed themselves cursing). They spend several minutes and several rescue requests, even knocking on the deck before my companion and I understand the boat reaches. We spend another half hour to drive out too voluminous in the eye of the textile and windlass to ensure the chain to the boat. Towards the east we see the dawn. It is four and a half. Good morning.

From Naoussa to Antikaros

June 16, 2009. Levita-Amorgos. 46 miles.

Let Levite that almost all other boats, a dozen have already left. We take it comfortably. Now the appointment with the new crew is two days of sailing and the weather looks good. The cool wind comes from satisfied to browse through and Gattadapelare Amorgos, an island favorite with me and my daughter Marcia. Amorgos, high cliffs overlooking the blue sea and its depth is little known by the aggressive tourism and leisure facilities. No coffee here with upholstered armchairs, souvenir shops full of trinkets, pretentious boutique, watercraft, umbrella, rock music, nightclubs, fast food and maybe even a McDonald's. The country 'low' Katapola, the capital, home to a dock for mooring boats and ferries. It offers the crews of boats that stop some taverns and a few stores, a couple of small hotels and essential services. The Chora, a small and pretty, has a typical square as a focal point in the shade of a mulberry Greek collection. From the southern white and lonely monastery Chozoviotissa seems to have been spread on the rock by hand gigantesca.Amorgos is an island of the Aegean for tasters.
After passing the island of Kinatos the wind strengthens and compels us to reduce the haze, when we face at the eastern tip of Amorgos, then take a decision regret. I choose to go that route leeward island, albeit a bit 'longer, gives us a less agitated sea. Remember too late that I have read that the winds can down the mountains with increased violence. In fact the next few hours we put to the test. We keep the boat a couple of miles from the coast where the waves begin to rise, but where we are less exposed to gusts descendants. However, the violence of the wind, we estimate that under gust between 40 and 50 knots pulls water from the sea surface and we threw it angrily in the eye. Are forced to put his diving mask when I'm at the helm. La Gatta behaves very well and does not pose any problem. After an endless path and reach the western tip of the island, following the route of a vessel, we went in the narrow passage between an island and thus entering the tip, in the maritime area upwind Amorgos. Here the conditions are better, the sea is rough, but the wind is very strong. I regret the choice fatta.la morning. Finally we reach the creek at the bottom of which is Katapola and mooring anchor with the stern lines ashore. We are tired and happy calm that now prevails in the cockpit. The pleasure of relaxing after a busy shipping, with a glass of ouzo in hand, is one of the joys that can make the boat sea lovers.
Dine by boat and go to sleep.

From Antikaros to Tilos

June 20, 2009. Antikaros-Amorgos. 7 Miles

Quickly reach Amorgos and moored in the prohibited area, English. We inform you to find a "elektrologo, an electrician, for our yet, but that" good "is sick and that" no good "immediately declare its inability to solve the problem. If nothing else is true. Despite calls from the Harbour to move the boat, fall on deaf ears. We have no desire to hand the wing again.
Our tender, for the third time, tried to escape and gets stuck against a vessel nearby.
At Chora tonight there will be a village festival. Daniela there we got a scooter and we sat on stone seats that surround the square. Here is Daniela hole in the heart of a country ruddy and talkative that fetches a bottle of homemade grappa and try the seduction through alcohol. We'll leave disappointed and a bit 'drunk to go by boat to eat the rice prepared by Pino.

June 21, 2009. Amorgos, Astypalea, 49 miles.

The time remains unchanged. Light wind from the south. Daniela wants to experience the Meltemi wind that does not know, but Eolo.è spiteful Our goal is Astypalea, Cycladic island, the easternmost, but administered by Rhodes. It is shaped like a butterfly and remember very pleasant little tourist. When after a navigation without emotions reach Vathy, the lower town, I discover that my last visit was made a well-protected harbor full of sailboats. The pleasant surprise is because the last time a high tide forced us to move the boat to another bay. I am satisfied that I can moor English, watched a bit 'jealous of the other crews, along the quay side. This type of mooring is my favorite and my enthusiasm is subject to board nice irony, particularly by Daniela. She always wants to stop the wheel in some bay you can dive in clear water, we who do not disdain this kind of staging, we are led to discover the pleasures of a cozy tavern, possibly a few meters from the boat. Once Castellorizo, the Mediterranean island of the film, we tied the mooring lines passing through the tables with customers apologize for the inconvenience. This is the Greek islands, genuine and spontaneous, that we love and what we dream when we are away.
Sooner or later I'll have to settle Daniela. and find a little bay


June 22, 2009. Astypalea, Tilos. 53 miles.

Tilos head for power and sailing at the last moment to avoid a shoal a few hundred meters from the bay. Maybe we would have passed safely over-the transparency of water in these seas is exceptional and brings up the shallower depths but the excited-warning Pino, at that time at the helm, viriamo sharply to starboard and we move with a little ' palpitation of the danger zone.
We were three. Pino, tireless helmsman (the new autopilot of Cat is not yet active for complications of assembly), Daniela, vegetarian and skipper believes his own, and I, happy owner of a container failure.
The long day is welcomed by the "great helmsman" who, dreaming of Hollywood, we exhibited her film projects. Unable to disappear, because of the narrowness of the boat listening with amused patience.
He begins to see the profile of volcanic Nisiros and after a while, to his left, the lowest of Tilos. The wind continues to be moderate and peaceful Gattadapelare proceeds. We expect to Tilos a tavern where there is always a kid who turns on a spit. The idea pleased Pino and only me.
Daniela dissociates.
Wins a majority.
When you arrive late afternoon. The port is occupied by several small boats and there's no free Trappist. We have to put a boat in the harbor if there were offered the chance to tie it. A kind gesture for those who love the sea and sailors consider other mutual friends. The boat, a small sloop of eight feet, is inhabited by an old German couple who live rough and dry and we sail for many months a year. Let friends and invite them to drink ouzo from boat to boat.
The tavern a big disappointment: nothing today goat tomorrow.

From Tilos to Rhodes

June 23, 2009. Tilos-Alimi. 25 miles

We aimed at Halki, an island in the south, the last of the three aligned between Kos and Rhodes. We read that too is off the beaten tourist and hosts a colony of British semiresidenti, lovers of simplicity and peace. The wind continues to be favorable, but not very intense. But we have time. Halki is immediately visible. Behind it the long profile of Rhodes and farther to the right, the end of Karpatos. This is another island on which I want to land again. I met with my daughter Marcia twelve years ago and we were enchanted by the simplicity of its inhabitants and the beauty of its mountainous nature and sea.
When we are at the village of Halki wind strengthens el'approdo there is pleasant. It 's a good opportunity to find a cove where you put the wheel. But she indicated to us by German couple proves unsafe, it is over and not exciting. After a second attempt to desist, put the stern to the wind and head on Alima. And 'This is a small island with a beautiful bay protected from the wind. It is only six miles and reach easily.
Access is by a canal and immediately to the right of the pilot's book indicates that a pier, however, is not suitable for a boat as big as the cat. Satisfaction of Daniela us mad It caliamo wheel and anchor in the most protected area where two other boats are anchored.



24 to 25 June 2009. Alima

The lagoon Alimi opens ahead of us in the radiance of Phoebus. A gentle breeze lifts tiny waves lapping at the bow of Cat facing the open sea, which remains hidden from the strip of land close to the entrance to the bay, a plunge into the transparent and thus began our lazy, in the third last day ' Aegean. A stroll down the bay with a tender to explore the wreckage of a crane barge which, rose rust, stands as a warning finger and then landed near some buildings, witnesses of the tragic period of over sixty years ago . in which this island was a naval base of the German Navy. Inside, the floor, including fragments of bricks and debris, droppings of goats and shells of sea urchins consumed in large quantities, denounce frequenting these places by. regular visitors. We wander curious and circumspect, but also imbued with a sense of respect for the history of mankind, before the soldiers, told through the charcoal drawings on the walls. One, but probably more experienced hands to tell visitors today poignant nostalgia for those young people torn from their villages, mountains and meadows of Germany to come and fight here, in light of these islands, on a wall and designed a sweet hilly with a distant church, another glimpse of a medieval village crossed by a river and, again, a winter landscape framed by trees. All well-made designs that have earned the respect of 'graffiti' subsequent desire to leave a sign of their passage. Neither has superimposed the doodles of their names and dates of visitation on the designs of the anonymous artist. Manifest expressions of narcissistic presumption and unconscious modesty. Even the word jubilant and claiming "Victory 1945" was topped by the Star of David superimposed on another beautiful design, this time in color depicting the erotic dream of a 'marmittone' hit by the arrow of Cupid.
We go back and enter the scenario of this blue and green lagoon framed by the Mediterranean.
Spend lazy days in the well protected from the sun with a canopy. Read, sleep, listen to Pino who speaks of cinema, and we let time pass on the skin.
Sunday 28 you go to Rhodes to find a charnel house where the boat and leave them to work on improvements planned for so long.

June 26, 2009. Alima-Rhodes 30 miles

Upon departure are some big fish to swim under the boat. He draws with a great disappointment Daniela harassing and threatening danger of being abandoned on the island as Ariadne. I eat sushi on the go. The wind strengthens and encourages us when we are through the city. We do not know exactly where the carnage, which is just south of the port. When, finally, we see trees sprout boats on the coast, and after two attempts to locate the point of hauling reach the goal. Today is Sunday and you do not see anyone. Take the decision to dock nell'invaso dell'alaggio and start to put the boat at rest.
We have dinner in town last night and sleep in bunk. From tomorrow only large beds where turning does not require physical exercise.

June 27, 2009. Rhodes

Part Pine in the morning, Daniela in the early afternoon and I was alone. The Cat is winged sails stowed, paid parking. I am a lucky passage that leads to the hotel booked this morning. I take a long shower, turn on air conditioning, I lie in bed with the Greek television on and I fall asleep. Towards evening I go out to buy food in a deli and get back to the hotel. After much wandering finally stopped.
Tomorrow I'm sleeping in my bed.