The melancholic city of Budapest

After visiting Prague, we could not miss the historic town with another of Eastern Europe. The Paris of the East, as we read in several guides. The capital of Hungary, Budapest.

We have addressed the journey lasting 5 days immediately after New Year. Derogatory biting cold and the risk to find many places of attraction closed for snow! "
The organization of the trip was completely "do-it-yourself": hotel reservation (Expedia) and flight (eDreams) were made directly on the Internet. I must say that the savings were quite substantial especially about!

Transfers
We arrived at the International Ferihegy Budapest in the afternoon of January 2. The cold was biting the temperature was around zero degrees (compared to 11 ° C in Rome there was already a big difference). To reach the city from the airport there are two possibilities both economic: the first is the bus that takes you to the underground Ferihegy (line 3). Or (much more comfortable, at least for the way) you can use the 'Airport Minibus Service. This is a "collective taxis" that provides access to the hotel booked. The price is set at the beginning and is paid directly to the airport. There are no negotiations whatsoever, not likely to be the "sole" of the inexperienced traveler! If I remember correctly the price is around 10-12 euros per person. If you purchase just the back there is everything to cost about 18 euros.

Consider a 30-40 minutes to reach their destination. It depends where you have a lot to the hotel. Keep in mind that they'll have half collective syrups stops all of your traveling companions. We had booked the 'Art'Otel at Buda. The first thing to understand is that the city is divided into two main areas: Buda, the hilly area, where there are all the major tourist attractions (castle, old town, etc /) and the flat Pest purely commercial and certainly more alive. The two neighborhoods are divided by its river Danube that divides the city into two.

Overnight
The Art'Otel is a beautiful 4-star hotel but the internet has given us at a price much lower. The standard double room at a price of 200 euros per night (including continental breakfast), but thanks to Expedia we managed to have it at 105 euros with the last night free! Also (surprise) included in the price is the use of the sauna (try!), Gym and internet for one hour a day. The hotel is located along the river behind the castle and old town within a few minutes walk. In addition to 200 mt. there is a stop Ter Batthyany of subway line 2. The downside is that at night the area is a little 'dead, there are many local and those which are rather expensive. To move to the area of Pest is necessary to take public transportation because the distance is considerable. As I said before, in hindsight to book a hotel in the area instead of Buda Pest, to avoid long (and exhausting) travel to dine or to go somewhere local for a drink.

Sightseeing
If you go to Budapest do not miss a visit to the Castle Hill (Varhegy). Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO is divided into two distinct parts: the Old Town (Var) and the Palazzo Reale (Budavári Palota). Once on the hill you can not lose sight that offers the Fishermen's Bastion (Halászbástya) ... really fantastic! You can admire the whole city! Walking aimlessly in the Old City ... this is the oldest place in Budapest where he built the city ... the streets, houses, colors are those of the past. There are several museums, but honestly I have not found them so exciting to be visited (such as the Museum of the Hungarian Post ...), but de gustibus ...

To get on the hill you can use the Royal Step but if you do not want to walk then you have to take the funicular Siklo. Sinceramente non ne vale la pena ... From the Old City you can not but arrive at the Royal Palace through Színház Utca. Here you can admire the buildings place of residence of Hungarian kings (and also seems soon the President of the Republic ...) or visit the National Gallery or the National Library.

If you are not tired (or cold, as in our case) then you can continue your walk up to Gellert Hill. It takes its name from the Italian missionary put to death in 1046 and made to roll down the hill in a barrel full of nails. In memory of this terrible incident is an enormous statue reminiscent of the Italian prelate. Going up the hill you will find another historical part of Budapest, the Citadel. E 'a fortified city built by the Habsburgs to defend the city from the insurgency but that really never saw any battle. Do not miss the monument to independence represented by a beautiful woman with a palm in his hand to proclaim the freedom of the city. E 'curious history of this statue: erected after the Second World War to pay tribute to Soviet soldiers who liberated Budapest by the Nazis was a deep "review" at the end of communism in 1992. All the soldiers' names written in Cyrillic were deleted as they were torn down the statues of Russian soldiers who were around the monument.

This is something that's left after seeing Budapest. Are strong signs that employment in the communist left Hungary. All symbols of communism have been slaughtered as to erase the memory of a sad time and without dreams. Impressive as all symbols have undergone revision and meticulous destruction except those that serve as historical memory for future revisionists. So the Secret Police of the Palace where they were tortured dissidents (real or imagined) remained and was transformed into a museum. View it from outside, the imposing facade and thick walls (seems not to have heard the screams of tortured prisoners) will make him a deep sadness. The hope is that nobody has to relive those experiences in the future.

Since you are on Gellert Hill, then you can not go to the baths of Hungary's most famous, those of 'Hotel Gellert. This is a very famous spa with thermal baths, swimming pools (also work in winter, but do not worry the water is heated!) And indoors, massage and mud baths of all kinds. It seems to be in a cathedral of the Middle Ages, with impressive marble columns and a really impressive. You can not not go there, you miss one of the main attractions of Budapest. With regard to these pools are mixed, ie men and women are together. The spa areas are separated. For the pool you can also rent costumes and towels in the spa while you need not. One enters strictly naked! But you will discover quickly that the sense of modesty is not absolutely known by Hungarians and after a few minutes of embarrassment able to enjoy the benefits of thermal waters! Among the various baths of Budapest (there are 6 very good) point out there in addition to those Gellert Szechenyi Park City. Baths are larger (nine pools in all!) And they have municipal fares remain ... less and less pay! Part of the price of entry will be returned to the proportion to what you were! Tenente that enter the spa does not cost more than 15 euros per person (including rental of costume).

 

Pest

Pest is the city most godereccia, full of local shops and interesting places to visit. Do not miss the Jewish quarter that begins in Oktogon Ter until arriving in the heart of the inner city (Belváros). They are places rich in recent history, where they are still open wounds inflicted from Nazi occupation.

On the eastern side of Pest in the face of the hill is the most photographed monument (so they say) to Budapest: the Parliament. E 'a building, an austere and intimidating beauty. Unfortunately, the visits are allowed in a few days and then you must be very lucky to be able to go inside.

Another major attraction of Budapest are its bridges over the Danube. They were all destroyed by the Germans during World War II and promptly rebuilt. The most famous is probably the Chain Bridge, the oldest part of Budapest. But equally beautiful are the Elizabeth Bridge and dell'Indipendenza. If you walk these bridges cross the Danube to get ready for a nice walk ... we have done with -6 ° and a snow storm! It was not just a nice experience because the wind is incalana in the bed of the Danube reaches tremendous speed and there will cosnto in the middle of the journey!

Shopping

Per un po 'di shopping you can not visit the shopping area to Vaci Utca. It 'a real trap for tourists, where you'll find more ... much more expensive! Get away from this area go to the central station, or enter into a gigantic shopping malls in Budapest and the incredible level of prices will drop! We point out the commercial center "Mammut" with a giant fountain, or inside the West End City Center. I personally have preferred to go to the Flea Market Petofi Csarnok. This is a Portese Doors "old style" where you'll find everything ... discs, mangianastri, relics of Russian, Romanian drums of detergent, etc.. Another place to purchase is the Great Market Hall. It is a huge market that is on two floors. The ground floor is selling food of all kinds ... from salami to bitter Hungarian Unicum ... you will find a wide assortment that will satisfy your every culinary need. The prices are really content ... note that the market is frequented by locals who have an average salary of 300 euros per month. Get your accounts!

The second floor is more touristy ... troverete lace, embroidered tablecloths, crystal of Bohemia (much more expensive than in Prague!) Boxes and secret (secret box) ... are boxes that allow you to hide some precious object .. a very popular souvenir that does not much engage your finances. For embroidery hand ready to pay exorbitant figures! E 'permitted negotiations, but do not be too insistent that the Hungarians have given me the impression of people very proud and so excessive insistence might offend.

Inside the market there are also several places where you can eat and drink for a few euros. It 'a very funny and if the weather (as in our case) is inclement then you will like even more!

Things to avoid: the crystals, absolutely not typical of Hungary. Do not miss: The porcelain of Herend (with the attached ten-year loan to support the purchase!).

Food, weather and transports

The thing that Budapest and Hungary is famous throughout the world is the Goulash. We tried in several places and you say it is fabulous. A boiling broth, with pieces of meat and paprika. All this for less than 2 euros! In a cold winter evening will give you the courage to leave the room to face the cold! If you are not lovers of the flesh are in trouble even though several local offer fish (Lake Balaton), or vegetarian dishes. The tasty dishes are the meat of deer and wild boar, cooked in the oven with potatoes and lots of paprika! Paprika, like sour cream, dressings are very common and are placed almost anywhere. If you do not like it tell you in advance! It is better to avoid spaces in the area of Buda expensive and too much tourism. Stop hand in the classic trattorias (Vendéglo) Pest. Do not worry, many have menus in English but the waiters are very patient and willing to help you eat what you want. The prices are affordable (except in tourist restaurants) and the portions superabbondanti. A full meal (beer, goulash, pancakes) will cost you between 5 and 10 euros. Remember to order a scale at a time otherwise you may not finish everything. Enjoy at least once, the famous Hungarian crepes (palacsinta) superb one with chocolate and nuts. There is a place in Buda, Nagy Palacsinta, serving pancakes 24 hours a day!
Does not want to affect that much, let me tell you two spaces. The first is Pozsonyi Kisvendeglo. Local frequented by very young people, offers abundant and traditional Hungarian dishes, really delicious! Cost but you have to book or get patiently waiting, because the space is small and is well known. The second is a restaurant located in the Jewish quarter in Dob utca 26. You eat well and spend little or nothing ... depends on your luck! In fact, when the account holder is presented with a glass and three ... if you're nuts with a shot to make 6 on all three dice ... the bill does not pay!
Wine lovers will discover the variety of production and especially the Hungarian cost of some bottles ... anything to envy to the prestigious Italian and French wines. To mention a local production, the wine of Eger, very famous. Hungarian wines on the label indicate the composition of the grapes used for wine production: the more the percentage of grapes is valued more highly are "Stelletta" and the higher the price.
Remember to taste the grappa produced by Zwack Unicum and bitter. If you need to make purchases of alcohol to take home and do not have special needs you should go into any supermarket in Budapest and the wine shops are reserved for true connoisseurs, and to holders of credit cards of a certain level!
Attention to Duty Free at the airport, because you may be disappointed by the prices, much more favorable than the elite wineries of Budapest, but certainly higher than the supermarkets!

Climate
We went in winter. It 'very cold day the temperature never exceeded zero. E 'snowed for two days. But it is really charming, with all the roofs bleached, the Danube covered with slabs of ice ... the mulled wine will be your favorite travel companion! Unfortunately many winter activities are suspended (such as trips on the Danube) but you will still be able to have fun and see many things. Bring warm clothes and comfortable shoes, do not forget a hat and wool gloves ... at - 10 ° C could fall the fingers of the hands!

Local transport
Moving to Budapest with the local media (metro, tram and many buses) is the best choice. You can reach any place in a few minutes. The stress is out of tickets! In fact there are no tickets as unique in Italy and in many senior posts in Europe. Instead of tickets combined. I make a few examples:
1) metro ticket max 3 stops without changing
2) subway ticket max 5 stops with a change in metropolitan
3) ticket bus / tram stops max 5 no change
4) subway + bus ticket (one change) max 90 minutes
One ticket stops 5 meters costs about 1 euro. There are two possibilities: the patience to deal with the purchase of every ticket to the guy explaining the box office where you intend to go (careful, because very few speak English, but are still available and very patient). The second option is to buy a ticket that allows you to travel without restrictions throughout the circuit means of Budapest. There are two types: valid for 3 days or the (less convenient) for 1 day.
I unreservedly buy the Budapest Card This card (costs about 20 euros) entitles you to travel on all means of transport and access to many attractions of Budapest for a few days. But in winter many of the places "including" are closed and many of those open have no particular interest. Instead those of most interest (you will discover soon!) Can be visited with a discount (and are not included in package).

Emotions
Budapest is a city rich in emozioni.La feeling is that of a strong dignity and above all wants to emerge and excel. For too long this population has been marginalized, suppressed and abused. Now also in Hungary you breathe air of freedom and innovation. It 'a very beautiful and charming that I knew it before you go there ... but the real surprise was the reception of persone.Tutte available and with a mad desire to confront the stranger, to absorb their culture, to approach their mentality. I am very determined, we will very soon.
Buon viaggio a tutti!