'07 Iceland adventure trip - On the footprint of Saknnussem

. ... He ran on the paper and with sparkling eyes and trembling voice he read the entire document, going by the last letters to the former. Here's what was written:
"... The Yocul Descend into the crater of Sneffels
that the shadow of Scartaris is to lick before Kalends of July,
bold traveler, and perverrai the center of the earth.
And that I did. "
Arne Saknussem.
From "Journey to the Center of the Earth" by Jules Verne.


A fantastic place, those who do not see every day. The borders of Europe, up there 'where you think the ice and the cold-faced bosses, that's rivers of lava, hot pools, bubbling mud and everything else more like' hell become equally involved. This and 'Iceland, a land where ice and fire are so close that he had given rise to large disasters, a real show of force of nature.
It 'a land with its beautiful person who is excited to visit.

Is not 'a holiday to suit everyone: for the climatic conditions, that when they are bad, they are really difficult to tackle.
For the road ahead, so if you want to see the main locations, and further away 'from the ring road, quite busy in August. The fact Iceland is not small, is also seen speed limits' and the type of roads to be addressed, often times dilate.
For costs: it is known that it is not just a country economically.
All these things together mean that, having to be careful to budget, or you end up removing a few days visit, or look for better accommodation 'Spartan to save something and then, consequently, to adapt.
Obviously if you do not have budget problems these problems do not exist!

INGREDIENTS FOR THE TRIP.

GUIDE:

We brought 2, the same that we use when we go around, Lonely and Rough. Both well done.
Should in any case always have a couple back, to help address the possible shortcomings of either.

ITINERARY:

There 'took a while' to decide the exact route, since the guide is packed with many things to see. Finally, following advice from other visitors, we've created a tailor-made for us, taking into account the 14 days that we had available (including return).
We completely missed the visit to the capital, considered unattractive by most people that there 'was. Not loving the nightlife and museums, we believe we have made the right choice.
Within we have also included the western fjords, many discouraged because 'away. Choice amply rewarded!

FLIGHTS:

Today, there are 2 alternatives x Travel to Iceland by air: direct flights with Icelandair from Milan (cost about 800 euros per person return), or the now famous Icelandexpress but that 'does not fly from Italy. Eventually we find a good solution via London Stansted with Ryanair flight to coincide with IE Keflavik, all return to cost us 400 euros round round head. Not too bad!

UNITS:

Having defined the flights there and back, bombarded with emails guesthouses, hotels, b & b, to search for the cheapest prices' cost in places where we had decided to stay. Within a week, all in all we received most of the answers, and we made reservations. For some, 'needed a confirmation email to others and' was necessary to send the credit card number. We tried decent housing (no luxury then), but with en suite bathrooms. However the 3 nights we did with shared bathroom because 'there was nothing.
Going on these standard medium-low, we have spent on average 120 euros a night for a room, always with breakfast included. Considerable!

AUTO:

The other big blow comes from the rental car. Small car for 13 days is around 700 / 800 euros, depending on the offers, the charterer etc ..... Since all those who have returned from the 'lamented the fact of not having taken a jeep at the end we did the madness, and Euro 1530 round-round, including SCDW, we hired a Suzuki Jimny from Geysir, a company that has no office Keflavik International Airport, but in a village a few kilometers.
Eventually the SUV and it 'revealed a right choice, given that we had done in anticipation of several miles of dirt road, and perhaps the track for the Landmannalaugar.
If you plan to travel only the ring road without detours particular, an ordinary car is more 'than good, because the road and' almost all paved (except for a few kilometers in the eastern fjords) and save $ 1000 as laughing, without count the lower consumption of gasoline.


PAYMENTS

We have not exchanged a single euro from Italy, we started with traditional credit card, prepaid or debit cards. In the end, apart from the rent we paid for everything, absolutely everything by prepaid (Visa Electron) accepted everywhere, even for negligible costs a few euros, even in the more 'isolated the country!


To see all the photos of the trip:
http://www.marcoedanna.com/gallery/luoghi/Islanda/Islanda.htm

 

BERGAMO - LONDON - KEFLAVIK - SELFOSS.

The first day and 'rather exhausting: Wake up at 02:45 at night to catch a flight at 06:50 in Bergamo. Punctual arrival at Stansted at 07:45. Upon check-in Iceland Express, on the boarding pass will leave a green sticker that says "Fast Check", which the clerk there but has' explained, with that you can avoid all the monstrous queues at security checks, very meticulous as expected, simply by switching the side entrance by showing your boarding pass all'addetta. Punctual to the second flight, we landed at 14:40 on the soil of Iceland.
Desolate landscape, the peninsula (Reykianes) it's on the airport and 'flat, not seen relief, and even many homes .... earth and 'black as pitch, low clouds and threatening. Does not seem a very welcoming.
Baggage thankfully arrive, and so we walk a long corridor full of large back-lit panels that advertise the beauties of this land.
We immediately meet the envoy of Geysir, a guy who will 'yes and no 18 years, holding a laptop and can contract for the rental car, we sign on a bench in the airport. We pay and another boy takes us where to park right outside the front of the exit, you will find our Suzuky Jimny. We climb aboard for a brief explanation, and immediately notice that the car has a full fuel load, I do this and make him write on the copy of the contract. The initiative is not 'the best!
Throw a chill wind, load the bags and leave immediately, we are no parking and we need is to take a penalty just arrived.
The first few miles to drive confirm the impressions upon landing.
The area 'a vast expanse of black lava solidified, bizarrely shaped, covered with mosses and lichens.
In the distance you see the countries of Keflavik and Njardvik, on the coast.
We continue on the highway and a highway that seems to take the crossing to the Blue Lagoon.
Huge columns of white smoke, lava fields everywhere including flowing streams of water from a blue ever seen.
And 'the best place' visited in Iceland ..... and you understand why '. And 'magic. Seem to be ahead of the landscape of a fantasy film, with colors and atmosphere unreal. We reach the large parking lot, and we immediately notice the many cars and coaches (the only discordant note, a bit 'too many people!)
Even the lagoon which is outside the site alone is worth the visit, with its colors, the shades of water ranging dall'azzurro more 'intense white. We do a lot of photos, taking advantage of a ray of sunshine peeking out from the clouds, then a quick nip inside, where over the entrance to the pool, there 'a restaurant and gift shop rather expensive!

VOTE BLUE LAGOON: 9

For the bathroom there 'time, we will return the last day, now we move towards our first destination: Selfoss, where we'll be 2 nights.
From Keflavik in Selfoss, will be a hundred kilometers, but unfortunately we are passing the Rekjavik ring road, which slows our march, we can not wait to leave the chaos of space in which we find ourselves among other people here seem run a lot and pay no attention to the very limits that are on the road.
We arrive in Selfoss, after crossing a few nice features in the middle of green volcanic hills, which remind us of very few Scottish landscape.
Accommodation for two nights at the camping site in the town center, in a wooden bungalows with kitchen and bathroom. The owner warns us that he can not 'tell us since breakfast' and 'just get a big group of families that occupies the entire dining room. Discount on the room, spending close to a supermarket (across Iceland a couple of chains close at 23:00, very handy!), Dinner in one of the steering wheel fast food are widely available (prices are more 'affordable, with 10/11 euro per head is eaten burger + fries + coca), filled with gasoline, buy a map in a service station and then off to bed when you see more. The dark comes only at 23:00.

SELFOSS - LANDMANNALAUGAR - GULFOSS - GEYSIR - SELFOSS.

Awake at 07:30, the sun floods the room now for a few hours ..... perfect, we decide to go to Landmannalaugar: Who is 'has been described as one of the memories most' beautiful in Iceland, we can not miss having a nice day!
The long road to get there is up to the dam and Hrauneyjar 'all paved, and as you leave the coast, the green hills dotted with many farms, churches, white and red, and many horses, gave way to endless lava fields left by the eruptions of 'Hekla, the mountain that we see on our right, the sum' and 'covered by clouds. Arriving at the hydroelectric power Hrauneyjar begin the tracks suitable only for off-road. We follow the more 'simple advice from other tourists. Although not present any difficulty ', but the road' and 'full of holes and undulations that make the trip less than pleasant, and above all to be done to speed' reduced as not to risk breaking something. The places that we offer through bleak landscapes, and you realize how impossible it is life inside. We stop often to take pictures, but here the sky and 'covered and gray. We wandered around the mountains blacks, with streaks of fluorescent green moss, fascinating. After an hour of dirt roads, open views of mountains, orange, and following the signs are always present, the road ends in an open space before a river. We arrived! Do not wade, but we park next to other off-road, and reach the camp by foot over the river on a couple of wooden bridges. The place is special, a green valley with ponds and streams from which hot steam rising off-white, surrounded by lava flows, mountains grays, blacks and oranges, from whose sides are seen by many crevices where smoke comes out. Here there is' nothing but a refuge and adjoining campground. Coaches come and go constantly amphibians, and one of these left in place a large group of Italians. Imagine that from here the paths to explore the surrounding areas have to be strenuous but beautiful, as they say the guides. For visitors per day coming in, what is more 'is a nice refreshing bath in the hot pools near the camp, because here, at least in August, there' a bit 'too much coming and going. We were a bit 'with a bitter taste in his mouth than reported by other passengers, we could not find a place of indescribable beauty, considering also the way that there' to be done to get here. Mind you, not that bad, indeed. But not to take your breath away!

Landmannalaugar RATING: 8

Come back now and 'late afternoon, two stray towards the goals of the Golden Triangle: the cascade of Gulfoss and the geothermal area of Geysir. The first and 'a beautiful waterfall, which gives a view with the sun also huge and colorful rainbows. Bella!

GULFOSS RATING: 7.5

A few kilometers from Gulfoss on the right side of the valley is the area of Geysir. There are several pools of bubbling mud, gray, blue pools of water, and the only active Geysir, the Strokkur that every 4 / 5 minutes to shoot 20 meters thick jets of boiling water. It 'a very peculiar phenomenon, which deserves to be watched several times, also to be able to get good photos. The tour of the pools along the trail and 'enjoyable anyway.

Geysir RATING: 8

SELFOSS - KIRKIUBLAEKLAUSTUR

Wind and sunshine have been with us early in the morning as we leave Selfoss, south-east.
Through several meadows with many horses of various breeds and colors, some really beautiful.
We try to make a detour to Porsmork. Unfortunately Myrdasjokull glaciers are covered with menacing gray clouds that gradually approaching. It begins to rain, the road is not 'most' asphalt, so 'we stop at the feet of some waterfalls for a few photos, before you go back and continue, the next step waterfalls Seljalandfoss.
Are clearly visible from the Ring Road, and deserve a break fast. Nice but nothing special

RATING SELJALANDFOSS: 6

A few kilometers later, as the sky now, and 'covered and spioviggina, we are the cascade of Skogafoss. This and 'really beautiful, majestic and very high, with a large water flow. There 'people that goes up the right side of the waterfall to the top, from up there' must certainly be beautiful. We prefer to stay on the ground, we have not much time, do some photos and then we move on to the cliffs of Dyrholaey.

Skógafoss RATING: 8

Shortly before arriving at Vik, here is the detour to the Cliffs of Dyrholaey. The road is not 'paved, and' rained recently and it 'rather muddy. Briefly go through the lava fields, and arrive at a parking lot. We are here mainly to see the puffins. I was a bit 'skeptical, and instead we can see a lot. And especially close to a meter or slightly more 'from us! There are bus parked, and indeed there are twenty people around to admire the spectacle. We get out immediately and do dozens and dozens of pictures! Are very funny animals, a cross between a bird and a penguin, and are goffissime when you throw in the air and then landing! Reading then describes how the Rough, comes from its belly flop with laughter! The post also and 'beautiful, the more' beautiful seen so far in the land of Iceland. A long black beach with a big stack at the center, hundreds of birds flying everywhere. The green hills and blue ocean background intorno.Tante rock formations, including a bow in the sea. Staying there 'for hours, but unfortunately the arrival of one of the usual bus download fifty people who invade the area, and since it starts to rain, we're leaving.

Dyrholaey RATING: 9.5

In short we come to Vik, we make a quick detour just to see the famous beach. We are shooting a bit 'to the streets of the village, half-deserted today and' Sunday, cold and gray day, everyone will be home to the heat ..... Instead here are some blond Icelandic children playing happily! We arrive at the beach and do some photos. It 'very special, sand fine enough, but black black. Two steps on the "waterfront" where we find a couple of people, many birds as usual, and in the distance I see dark stacks. Sara 'the day, will' not there 'no one around, but I'm not sorry little town: the red and white church on a hill, high and green mountains immediately behind, few people around .... . x sin just the cold!

VIK RATING: 7.5

Vik and 'the last thing you see today. We get a couple of hours long journey across the deserts covered by thick lava moss green, the sky opens and the sun comes back giving us some beautiful views around. Kirkjubaejarklaustur we reach where we find our hotel at the end of a small valley. Very nice (and costosetto), will remain 'one of the best accommodation throughout the trip.

KIRKIUBLAEKLAUSTUR - JOKULSARLON

Today short distances, so we get a bit 'more' later than usual and do an excellent breakfast buffet.
We visit the church of Kirkiublaeklaustur briefly fascinated by the story of the "Sermon of Fire" read the guide, which occurred days ago during a major eruption of the volcano Lakagigar behind the village.
Usually supplied to the morning service station in the country and away through the gray and long Skeidararsandur generated by the disastrous eruptions took place under the massive glaciers of Vatnajökull, the more 'big European glacier slowly peeps on our left. As the guide says, Iceland, and in particular this area, and 'at risk' Jökulhlaup "a destructive phenomenon that occurs when hot magma comes out of the earth's crust below a glacier, the heat melts quickly creating huge underground lakes which then spill over the surrounding territory, taking with him millions of cubic meters of water, debris, rocks and icebergs as tall as buildings. You cross many bridges in this area, and several of these were swept away a few years ago, when occurred the last eruption, which raises' columns of smoke and steam even visible from satellites orbiting the earth. How devastating this phenomenon is understood better than getting to the Garden of Skaftafell National Park, where you can 'see into a mini cinema, a 20-minute movie that shows what happened in 1996. Interesting.
From here the path that leads to a half hour in the languages of the Vatnajökull ice. I think it was the most 'disappointing throughout the journey, the ice is very dirty, and makes a bad impression. To admire the best must surely face one of the many organized tours that take tourists much more 'high.

VOTE Skaftafell (without excursions): 6

The other half of the day and 'one of the most' expectations of the whole trip: the lagoon of icebergs of Jokulsarlon. We arrive an hour after a good drive, during which the glaciers are becoming more 'from master. The landscape and 'fantastic. Never seen anything like that. Now all the mountains are almost entirely covered with ice. A sea of ice. So we think that by now the lagoon is within walking distance, and yet this landscape continues for tens and tens of kilometers, with the only paved road that goes around the glaciers. They are all part of the gigantic Vatnajokull .... there must be a reason and if this 'the most' big glacier in Europe! Pass the sign indicating another glacial lagoon, reached by a dirt road. I promise that we will visit later, but unfortunately there is time. Now lacks little, and we see some cars parked to the left of the road. We stop, it's cold, like when you're 'in the mountains to ski. We walked up the path right on top 'of the hill. Fantastic! Remain speechless for a few seconds to observe thousands of white and blue blocks of ice floating in a 'blue water. We are on the opposite bank to where the tourists usually stop. Here there is' nothing, just one path that winds around the lake, and a dozen people scattered here and there. Remain more 'than an hour to make pictures, walk silently along the shore to see the seals that swim among the ice blocks. The sun was there 'at times, but it' already 'enough to appreciate the place. Let us take the car and decide to stop the other side, we reach in 5 minutes. Here is 'most' people, but now is 19:00 and most of the tourists he's 'already' gone. Take something warm to shelter that is closing, and we sit and admire the view. The sun comes out. This side of the lagoon and 'even more' beautiful, the icebergs are more 'big and beautiful, there are so many seals. Remain another hour to photograph and admire ecstatic. It seems one of those landscapes of fantasy film, which I believe can really exist, but that you are before your eyes.

Jokulsarlon VOTE: 10

At 15 miles from Laguna have our B & B, reaches in a short time. The owners also operate a museum / restaurant, where to pick up our keys. Tonight we have a shared bathroom, and we take off our shoes at the entrance of the house. A bit 'a nuisance, but the proximity to the lagoon makes it overshadows.

JOKULSARLON - EGILSSTADIR

Day of transfer from South to North.
Usual excellent buffet breakfast in the morning, and then view the beautiful sunny day we return to the lagoon.
It 'still beautiful, but there' more more 'people. However we are there 'still a couple of hours because' the place and 'simply wonderful.
And 'later today and the way' long, we have to cross the fjords east and malinquore we go.
Slowly the weather worsens, and the beautiful sun was replaced after the town of Hofn threatening clouds and strong wind gusts (we discover later be at 90 km / h). I have to keep turned the steering wheel to go straight, and we are forced to slow the march. Meanwhile, a woodcock with his two children suddenly there crosses the road. Brake bad but mother frightened flies away, leaving the two little afraid to peep on the street. We get out and chase them to get beyond 'the road, where there are large ponds and perhaps will find their mother. Are very tender and very small, barely able to walk.
The entire stretch of Ring Road in eastern fjords was spent in the car, please 'and practically' impossible to escape without risking smashing a door because of the strong wind, rain at times. The fjords there appeared to be particularly beautiful, but we could see very little because of the weather.

EASTERN FJORDS RATING: 6

Technical notes: the road in some sections and not 'paved, but it' still pretty broad, not 'dangerous, at least in August when we passed us. The ringroad (No. 1) at one point in the fjords cut into the interior to Egilsstadir, eye and 'largely unpaved and tackling a step with different turns. We have mistakenly followed this instead 'the coastal road, hoping to shorten a bit' route, but do not know if it was a correct choice. Calculated that it takes a long time any choice you face!

A Egilstaddir are 2 degrees, wind chill and foul weather. We did not want to look for a place to eat, our B & B and 'isolated but with all the amenities' including various teas, hot chocolate etc ... which we have dinner in your room the warmth!

EGILSTADDIR - LAGO MYVATN.

The morning is not 'better than the previous night, it's always freezing cold, the clouds are low and it seems almost nothing. Spioviggina. We have breakfast in your room and leave quickly, hoping to find more best time 'to the west. We go towards the geothermal area more 'active and more' beautiful Iceland, one found near Lake Myvatn. Through places gloomy, because of blacks and low clouds: stretches of lava fields that are lost before their eyes and nothing else. Poured. Despite the time we decide to see Dettifoss, the waterfall in Europe with the most 'high water flow. The road (not the track that there is 'more' below) to find, it's very bad, full of holes and water coming down 'cats and dogs, there' also plan to go off-road. The waterfall and 'impressive, very big, but the water today and' brown, probably due to bad weather. In short, there seems more spectacular as seen before, but much also depends on the circumstances in which you see.

Dettifoss RATING: 7

We return by car soaking wet, I did not put my cape and my old Monclar has absorbed everything that came down and became unusable until at least tomorrow. I have to arrange wearing a pair of jumpers and kway, today that freezes. Given the climatic conditions continue to Asbirgi, is back on the ringroad to Myvatn. Car the heat is at least decent! Before the lake, and 'to see the absolutely volcanic area of Krafla and a detour of several kilometers on paved road, we enter a place that seems to belong more' to a science fiction movie that our world. Going up the valley towards the crater Viti, past the geothermal power station Leirbotn that widens its sprawling silver tubes to the wells from which derives energy. Here earth smokes. White steam rising from the water too, which is' warm and yellow fluorescent. There are lakes and rivers yellow. Red soil and yellow, bubbling pools of mud gray, fumaroles everywhere. View from above looks like a space base on Mars. Screws see it quickly, it's too cold and pulls a strong wind. Even the area Hverarond beside the ring road and 'very nice and worth a visit! Landscapes so 'we have never seen before, strange colors, unique atmosphere.
Let us take the car. A few kilometers after the passage opens before us the Lake Myvatn. A ray of sunlight pierced the clouds between blacks, white steam everywhere here, too, is a vision a little 'hell'.
We arrive at our B & B Reykjahlid, we have a real apartment, and because the radiators are on, I take the opportunity to dry my jacket. We go out and eat well at the village pub, unfortunately, surrounded by Italian tourists.

Krafla ZONE RATING: 9.5

MYVATN LAKE - AKUREYRI .

The next day the weather seems a bit 'better, is always cold, but at least the clouds are not as' threatening. We go to breakfast in the house next to ours, and we realize that even here we must take off our shoes. We have breakfast this morning barefoot!
Today we visit the area around the lake, which for a passionate, from many possibilities' to take walks and go hiking too demanding. We limit ourselves to visit the sites accessible by paved road, also because 'we have heard conflicting opinions about pretty things to see, some very disappointed. The weather improves in the meantime, the temperature rises, there is no 'more' wind and the sun comes out!
We see from below the big black crater Hverfjall.
Dimmuborgir visit with the strange shapes of lava rock that have been created over time, including the most 'famous' Chirca. Nice.
We continue along the road with some beautiful views to the area of the pseudocrateri Skutustadir. Let's take a short walk, even these cute but nothing amazing.

Lake Myvatn RATING: 6.5

Now and 'afternoon, and we must continue to Akureiry, about an hour away by car.
During the journey, we stop to see the cascade of Godafoss. Beautiful, with sparkling blue water. One of the most 'beautiful views so far.

Godafoss RATING: 8

Finally we come to Akureyri. Finally, a small town, and not a group of houses is enough! Sara 'the only of our whole trip. ********, Are staying at the guesthouse in the center. ******* Perfect location and breakfast hotel, the same management. Room small but nice. We will be here 2 nights.
Akureyri and 'very pretty, with a few tourist shops and some places to eat. Furthermore, it is well off, the temperature and 'increased! We have dinner at the pub at the bottom of our street, delicious meal at an affordable price!


Akureyri RATING: 7.5

AKUREYRI - OLAFSFJORDUR - SIGLUFJORDUR - AKUREYRI

Given the risk of seasickness, we decide not to go to Husavick to try to see the whales, and instead we go to countries that are fishing north of Akureyri, along the 'Eyiafjordur.
The day 'nice and warm and there' the sun.
Olafsjordur see it passing both outward and return journeys, also because 'no longer says' much. After about an hour and a half we arrive at Siglufjordur, the most 'across the north of Iceland. E 'isolatissimo, then following the dirt road that crosses the mountains, with many beautiful views, and' well kept but the guide says that normally, and 'open only in summer when the snows recede. To get to Siglufjordur there 'a claustrophobic tunnel to cross a single lane, no lighting, with some spots occasionally to push the car coming the other way. It 'the first place where we do not find mass tourism, made up of coaches who are running around everywhere, also because' this and 'a place where the road ends (they are building a tunnel linking Siglufjordur with Olafsfjordur, but the work will be completed in a few years ) and then, or you go on purpose, or nothing. It 'a place far away from civilization', and the guide says that often during the winter residents remain isolated from the rest of the island because 'the asphalt road and' impractical. We are 20 km from the Arctic Circle. It 'a fishing village, once famous for fishing for herring, not now' flourishing, and then, 'a little' fallen into crisis. There are no accommodations worthy of note, a colorful museum on fish processing and 'the thing more' feature, together with the fact that you can enjoy a little 'peace Icelandic in August.
On the way back we do a little 'shopping and have dinner in the room the day before, with a delicious soup and excellent lamb.


VOTE OLAFSFJORDUR - SIGLUFJORDUR: 7.5

AKUREYRI - HVAMMSTANGI

Day dedicated to the transfer before the crossing of the West Fjords. We stand with verrry quiet, we make a great breakfast, a ride downtown, I take a great Pylsa, and then we put in the car. We read that the stretch that goes from Akureyri to the Peninsula of Snaefellsnes and 'often done in one breath, and indeed even from a landscape point of view does not offer crab'. Glaumbaer we stop to visit the houses roofed peat best preserved in Iceland, and the annexed chapel. Very nice. Take something warm in a nearby coffee '(very very nice, like being in a doll's house), with waitresses dressed in period costumes. We leave around 17:30 and we are close to Hvammstangi. Since it is 'still early and there' a beautiful sun, we decide to go and see a seal colony located on the tip of the peninsula Vatnsnes. The road and 'dirt track after all Hvammstangi, and with few cars. Once in Hindisvik, silence surrounds us. They feel only a few horses neighing and bleating of sheep. Wonderful. The seals we see them, but they are a bit 'far, however the place it deserves, even to come to admire the sunset.

PENINSULA VATNSNES RATING: 7.5

At our B & B (Brekkulaekur, 12 km in the middle of nowhere on a dirt road side) we arrive at 21:00, but we face and the room there 'yet!

HVAMMSTANGI - ISAFJORDUR

The stage most 'long overall, about 400 kilometers. For this game early in the morning, even though watching the road map seems that fortunately not all on the road is unpaved. And 'round Sunday, and there is no' soul. Few kilometers and we leave the Ring Road northward. The road alternates unsurfaced dirt roads at times, but the speed 'media, thanks to the beautiful sunny day, and' still rather high. Hopefully go on like this'! Until Hólmavík there are some beautiful views of the eastern part of the fjords, but nothing exceptional. Strangely, compared to what happened up to now, not seeing anyone. This was the'Islanda we hoped to see! We have finally broken out of the more 'tourist out of the Ringroad where we like it or not, there' to pass. And there seems to be on another island. Hólmavík passed, the road is unpaved but well maintained here all dates from bends inward scrambling to cut in half 'the broad plateau Porskafjorderheidi. There are countries. None. Only so many lakes that reflect the greatness of the blue sky. We stop to take pictures and to eat something. In this area more 'than in all of Iceland, near the road we meet many emergency shelters red color, they are scary, they seem to spacecraft, such as those that sent the man on the moon, equipped with solar panels and antennas for communicating with outside for help, beds and food. They are located in regions' remote Iceland, where there is no 'chance' to arrive soon at a town.
After passing the plateau, one returns to the ocean, towards' Isafjardardjup. Here in front of us, silhouetted against the glaciers of Drangajökull, the only glacier of the western fjords, located in the remote and isolatissima Hornstrandir peninsula. The road winds along the various fjords, but here 'for the most part always paved. The path and 'long, but offers beautiful views, and no cars to disturb. He looks well. A meta 'afternoon we arrive at Isafjordur, which stretches on a strip of land in the middle of the fjord. We find our Guesthouse, and do a tour of the country by reading the Lonely. Is overcast, and there 'very few people around. The country and 'cute, but not many tourists. There are the classic souvenir shops, and 'Sunday and is' fully closed. You do not reach the masses of tourists. Mostly 'the people we encounter seems the place. We have dinner in a pub chain Pizza67, that slowly fills with Icelandic people, including a group of boys including one wearing a pig costume, with a lettered sign behind which we ignore the meaning. Perhaps a bachelor?

ISAFJORDUR - BUDARDALUR

Even today Tappone demanding, more 'about yesterday's, but that will prove' more 'long for the main dirt road that we face. Rise with the sun, and 'a wonderful day, and took the opportunity to finish to see Isafjordur, this morning there is another effect! The view of the fjord, fishing vessels moored near the peaks are reflected beautifully on the water, and gives us great photos. We see the public gardens, where the entry and 'was made with the bones of a whale. Very distinctive! There are so many flowers everywhere, and lots of colorful houses. And 'the country more' greatest of all the western fjords, and here are concentrated all the main services to the community '.

Isafjordur RATING: 8

Let's go south. After the tunnel Isafjordur (with built-in junction, never seen anything like that), reaching Pingeyri, where we leave the main road and head towards the end of the peninsula, as the Lonely. We stop several times to take pictures, and listen to the silence, that here and 'very deep. There 'no one and is divinely. The waters of the fjord are quiet and clean. The road instead and 'very bumpy, so many rocks and holes, and we are proceeding very slowly. Let's get to the lighthouse, but at some point the road becomes very narrow and cliff, and it seems a bit 'dangerous. With patience and attention, slowly we turn the car and head back. Take the road that climbs and descends a peninsula makes for beautiful views, until you get to the only waterfall western fjords, that of Dynjandi. Not 'nothing special, but it' around the edge it deserves. Too bad that the sky is again overcast. Up the slope from which descends from above the waterfall and there are beautiful views of the fjord from the top, crossing the river that gives rise to the waterfall. We pass by snowfields, lakes beautiful with lots of cotton seedlings. The road still unpaved, past the plateau and then descends towards the coast south of the western fjords near Flokalundur. Here, turn left and follow the coast to the east, past the many fjords of the area. Here we have beautiful views of the peninsula of Snaefellsnes, where stands the snowy Snæfellsjökull. Sara 'the only time we'll see. Otherwise, the road continues, passing bays where many live birds, we see a few meters away from us a bird of prey, and then are no longer a 'stop until Budardalur now out of the West Fjords.
The stretch of road from Isafjordur to Budardalur and 'very long, because of road conditions with even a few paved sections: one must begin on time and do well the calculations!

Western fjords RATING: 9.5

A Budardalur There 'nothing,' the first place that we found via the Internet outside the western fjords, which we use only as a base to sleep. Among other things, the owner of the guesthouse where they lodge makes a mistake, and our room came with 2 other guys that night. The manager very kind, we offer 2 beers, and after having restored the room, there is also a discount apologizing. Place and 'still spartan and with shared bathroom.

BUDARDALUR - STYKKISHOLMUR - SNAEFFELSNES

After the usual breakfast buffet, we travel the 80 kilometers separating us from Stykkisholmur. Time and 'bad back, clouds cover the sky. Shortly after arriving at the country begins to rain. Fortunately the hotel where we are and 'very nice, has already' the room ready, and also the free internet access! We take the opportunity to rest '. The weather does not improve even in the afternoon, and so 'let's try to leave too, heading Olafsvik. We go down every so often to make some shots, but the weather did not allow us to see crabs ', so' soon return to the hotel, looking for some info on the internet on the novel by Verne "Journey to the Center of the Earth", and we go to dinner.

SNAEFFELSNES - BLUE LAGOON - KEFLAVIK

Today the weather is slightly better, and after a good breakfast, we leave immediately to visit at least things more 'important. Comes a bit 'of sun, so we go on the track that leads to SnaeffelsJokull: the place is' very nice, reminds me a little' Landmannalaugar with its colors. There are snowfields, and pulls a strong wind. Low clouds alternated quickly, and the top of the snow spray creates beautiful rainbows. We make some pictures, and then saw the cold, falling back on the coast. We wandered around the peninsula with the sun and going, knowing that he would not see everything on offer. Unfortunately we have not taken well, but we can not complain with how 'was the trip. We see the wide beaches of the southern part of the peninsula, and then descend quickly to Reykjavik with its traffic, and beyond to the Blue Lagoon for a refreshing bath.

PENINSULA Snæfellsnes RATING: 8

Our guesthouse is located in Keflavik, incorporating the transport the next morning is free to the airport. Then we stopped at a service station to fill and wash a little 'car (both in Iceland washes are free) and then we go first to the guesthouse where we leave the luggage but we do not find the owner (since call), and then go to the offices of Geysir for delivery. You do not see anyone, unlike as we agreed, SO 'touches us still call us by phone and explain how and where to park your car. Meanwhile, the manager of the guesthouse that comes to us in the room door with his truck, when it is already 'past 21:00. We have dinner in a frugal and start packing for the trip home.