Iceland - Ice (and fire) land

Before you begin
It was for some years that I (Federico Chierichetti, Milan) and my girlfriend Daniela thought of visiting Iceland, driven by a desire to travel on the road in a remote land and all things considered inhospitable, but full of natural riches. But after the cold winters and polluted Milan we blocked the idea of mortgaging a part of our summer dedicating it to a cold place. But in the end we decided that we could not think so and we have booked. 8 days in fly-drive to visit, even if a little 'fast, the most significant of this country so fascinating. Not wanting to give up heat, to return from Iceland are now allocated at a time of Cape Verde. In 16 days we are so moved by the cold of the Arctic Circle to the heat of the Tropic of Cancer. A summer of contrasts, in pure spirit of adventure.
Of course the costs were enormous: about 2800 euros a head for Iceland and 1400 to head for Cape Verde, but it was an unforgettable experience.
But back to Iceland. We saw only places, waterfalls, volcanoes, glaciers, icebergs, deserts, sea, dolphins, sheep (many sheep), horses, birds, then the nature of the maximum power. We like to come back that soon. This time we focused, choosing to do one of the many hiking paths that the country is full and that this time we could not do for reasons of time. Some are among the most beautiful in the world as the Porsmork - Landamannalanguar in 4-5 days' walk leads through the wild places of incredible beauty.
Some practical aspects: how obvious is a country very dear. Gasoline costs more than we not to mention the food and hotels or farms. In 8 days we saw quickly what is more significant, however, neglecting to see the north-west. We put them on their own, with an off-the Hertz (necessary to reach certain locations). Sleeping in a sleeping bag (option rejected by us) you can certainly save a lot ', but not on self worth saving because it is unlikely to reach many beautiful places. Our Suzuky Jimny is the least trade union and in some cases was not sufficient. The main problem is the ford rivers. If you are in full you will need a top off-road to avoid the risk of getting bogged down or having to go back.
The optimum route is the Ring Road that runs around the perimeter of Iceland and is almost the whole island. From Ring Road, then start all deviations to the inland areas to visit.
Among the many certainly recommend the experience to travel (in off-road is better, although with some 'of conservatism and with more time available to us you can do with even a small) the inner slope of Kjolur (No 35). And 'all things in good condition and can enjoy the atmosphere of the desolate, wild and uninhabited interior Icelandic.
Here is what we managed to do in 8 days.

 

5 August 2005
Milan - Rejkiavik.
Icelandair flight punctual. Islanda The land of ice, is incredibly close to Italy. A little less than 4 hours of flight.
Take Flybuss to the city Bus Terminal (45 minutes approx.). then a smaller bus brings us to Fron which is located in the center, in the main street of Rejkiavik. As is almost midnight to start the classic Runtur, the tour of the local youth of the city makes every weekend to have fun and get drunk on beer. We gladly jump this practice and we go to bed. Small note on hotels in the city: Iceland at the moment does not have an official classification of hotels. This is because tourism is very recent. The level of the hotel, then, is not comparable to that of Italy or other countries. For example, the Hotel Fron, although central and famous has huge rooms (we had an apartment with kitchen and living room), but not at all pleasant.

6 August 2005
Rejkiavik - Vik. 346 km.
Immediately withdraw the car (a jeep Suzuky Jimny) to Hertz, and the starting time of the peninsula of Rejkianes, west of Rejkiavik. The first stop is the south-west tip of the peninsula, where, passing through a flat landscape and the moon, you come to a lighthouse near the nest where a huge colony of Sule (type birds seagulls). The wind is cold, the temperature is around 9 degrees. This encourages us to pause the nearby Blue Lagoon, the famous artificial lake fed by water used from the nearby geothermal power plant. The temperature of the water (as white as milk rich in silica) is ca. 38 degrees, and the surrounding landscape and has an unreal through the steam that envelops everything as a slight haze. It is certainly a nice break, especially for the contrast between the cold air and warm water. The skin then, we are told, will have the great benefits (see).
Let us go after a couple of hours at a time of Selfoss and Hella (famous for the horses of Iceland). We see in the distance the mass of the volcano Hekla, the most famous of Iceland because of its spectacular eruptions occurring ca. every 10 years .. By the way, was the last 9 years ago ...
The summit is shrouded by fog, and then renounce to approach too much and do step to the first two cascades of our trip: Seijalandfoss and Skogafoss. The latter, clearly visible from the Ring Road, is set in a verdant landscape. We stop and visit with this splendid place calmly climbing the long staircase that leads to the top of the waterfall. The intense noise of the water, splashing to create the impact with the ground, the sky gray and Drizzle make the atmosphere really unreal. The air smells of nature.
We arrive in the evening (so to speak, given that there is' light up to 23) in reserve Dyrholaey, a few kilometers from the village of Vik. Stay on a farm in the middle of the total with no more a beautiful view of the stacks and on the nature reserve that contains them.

7 August 2005.
Vik - Hofn. 350 km.
We wake up at dawn and after breakfast we visit, in a pouring rain and a wind Faraglioni the Arctic and the beach black Reyinisfjara. The view is splendid: the sea is stormy with high waves which are thrown on the volcanic beach. The Dany has forgotten its pantavento, so I have my exposed to the weather as only men of other times knew to do ...
After a stop at a service station where I change pants wet and Dany buys a pair of pantavento, start at a time of the geothermal Landmannalanguar. We know that the road to reach this place (which is most famous for its geothermal activity and natural thermal pools) is very rough. This is approx. 40 km. of road. In some places it is really bumpy is not the normal route by car. Fortunately our Suzuky does his duty to wonder and exceeds all the most difficult with ease. The landscape around is green and covered with streams rather enlarged by rain which have to be 2 days. We only and only we, in the midst of nothing, without the coverage of cellular and far from thrilled that we are living. In an hour of track meet only 1 car and a couple of crazy cyclists who are doing the rounds in Iceland by bike.
During the journey we must ford a few streams (funny!). Unfortunately, after an hour we arrive at a ford which leaves us perpelssi, the river is swollen by rain and frankly I think the ford groped risky. We wait a while 'taking advantage of the break to eat something in the bag. We hope someone uploads osi wade to understand what is profound. After a while 'comes another Jimny, which also stops him. Immediately after a jeeppone without hesitation that addresses the ford. We realize that the river is deep and the water around the bonnet of our jeep. Not being experts, reluctantly decide to give up. We do not want to risk locking up in the middle of the ford with all the unpleasant consequences that this entails. We are disappointed, because to them everything went smooth. We have to give up visiting the area Landmannalanguar. Patience, is part of that unexpected trips like these entail.
Cut back on the Ring Road and we head towards the Vatnajokull National Park, the largest glacier in Europe (eh si, we are in Europe, a world that seems so surreal that often you do not think). Crossing first the Sandur, the huge expanse of sand and debris that was formed following the eruption of the volcano that lies at the center of the glacier. Each eruption in fact involves the sudden melting of huge masses of ice that creates the biblical flood. Here we will stop all afternoon and visit on foot is the language of ice Skatafell is the famous Svartifoss, a waterfall surrounded by hexagonal basalt columns. Finally a ray of sunshine!
Let us go to the lagoon Jokulsarlon. The landscape before us is a lake communicating with the sea full of Iceberg. For the first time I realize that it really only a few hundred kilometers from the Arctic Circle. It is one of the most beautiful stops of the journey. There are seals, birds and an unreal silence. Every so often the sound of the ice that comes off or clashes. Breathtaking.
In the evening we arrived at the farm Skatafell and few km from Hofn. It is truly a magical farm. Behind a mountain from which it descends a waterfall, across a river in the middle that leads to the sea water from the glacier. Dinner as a family with food prepared by the owner.

8 August 2005.
Hofn - Neskaupstadur. 480 km.
The day is dedicated to the sight of eastern fjords. Time is what it is. Rain and often there is' the fog. Fortunately, when we come to the most beautiful fjord, the fog leaves Sejdysfjordur place in the sun. We do a nice tour and visit the homonymous town situated at the end of the fjord.
Certainly many of the beautiful places that we visited during the day we would have a better effect if there had been the sun. Unfortunately, the fog often literally prevented us from enjoying the beautiful surrounding countryside. Neskaupstadur to stay at the Captain. The hotel seems to be out favela a blue tin and not entice certain, but the rooms are comfortable and clean, always taking into account the average. We are the only guests and the owner is preparing a dinner of fried fish.

9 August 2005.
Neskaupstadur - Lake Myvatn. 365 km.
We still wake up at dawn and after a stop for gasoline and the purchase of lunch, we depart for good mood. C'e 'il sole e non c'e' not even a cloud. So the day throws well.
The goal of the morning is the National Park Jokulsarljufur, to the north. We arrive quickly through Egilsstadir. We stop at Dettifoss, the waterfall with the greatest flow of water in Europe. The landscape before us has nothing to envy to the Grand Canyon American (although here it's smaller). A canyon crossed by a river in the middle suddenly become even deeper, forcing the river to a jump of 50 meters. The thunder is impressive and incredible sensations. And then the sun makes the colors of the landscape really fascinating.
After a long walk on the edge of the waterfall we move towards the canyon Asbyrgi shaped horseshoe. We climb on the 'island' of Eyan, in the middle of the canyon. We just (what the applicant in this trip) and there is a magnificent sun. Arrived at the top feel the exhilaration of being a naked torso and shorts no more than 100 km from the Polar Circle. Lunches under the sun.
Let us go to Husavik. We want to embark on one of the many who make the tour of the bay in search of whales and dolphins. Within less than an hour pass from the warm sun to freezing fog and the open sea (the weather can change quickly around here). We are in the Arctic Ocean and spend three hours hoping to spot something. No trace of whales, but they see a lot of swimming in delfinoni flock not far from the boat. Good experience.
Dinner in a really nice restaurant frequented by the locals in the village and harbor of the time we leave the farm that we will host for the night, not far from the area of Lake Myvatn

10 August 2005.
Myvatn - Akureyri. 214 km.
After a brief stop in Godafoss, the waterfall of the gods, the day is devoted to visiting the crater of the volcano Krafla and geothermal springs with sulfur Soffioni Lake Myvatn.
We stop all'info center to buy a retina that will protect our faces from annoying flies before it invaded the area. Visit the areas where we do Namafjall climbing to craterino where you can enjoy a fantastic view over Soffioni.
Breathtaking visit to the cracks of the earth's crust at the highest point of Krafla, a few kilometers north west of Namafjall. The Krafla really does not resemble at all the usual image one has of volcanoes. In fact consists of a series of splits that are steaming in a north-south and under which lies a huge magma reservoir. At intervals of a few years the reservoir is filled and the lava comes out of the cracks, filling the surrounding area. Odors and smoke coming out from the cracks to give a place I do not know that the early universe.
Spent the day we stop to swim in the local lagoon blue and we head towards Akureyri where to stay after dinner to Bautinn, a restaurant frequented by the locals where they eat the whale meat, that I taste. It is similar to cow meat. Quick walk around the town and a nanna.

11 August 2005.
Akureyri - Rejkiavik. 435 km.
We decided to address the return to Rejkiavik along the wild western interior of Iceland. Then leave the Ring Road up to Blonduos and put us on track Kjolur (road No. 35) that crosses the Iceland glaciers in the middle of the Langjokull and Hofsjokul. The runway is unpaved, and medium conditions, but not recommended for ordinary cars. Us with our Jimny we have no problems. The landscape gradually succeed fantastic green areas and full of sheep in desert areas without a blade of grass. In these desolate moors astronauts that have landed on the moon came to test preparation. All glaciers and beautiful valleys. Obviously we do not find almost anyone and gsm coverage is absent.
Let us stop the geothermal area of Hveravellir and deviamo here for a track of 12 km to Pjofadolir, at the mouth of the ice cap of Langjokull. Lunch in complete solitude in the company of an incredible view over the valley below, where also a herd of Icelandic horses.
Let us get back on track n.35 and continue for several hours until the end, at the most famous waterfall in Iceland: Gullfoss. Double jump in a deep and narrow canyons that create a vertical spray incredible. When there is' the sun splashing create dozens of rainbows. Shortly after we stop at Geysir to watch the spray of hot water, which took the name all the geysers on Earth. At this point there ca. 100 km Rejkiavik that we calmly. Upon arrival in the city traffic, we realize that we are no longer used to seeing so many people all together ...
Dinner at a steak house in the center (carissima although the average Icelandic restaurants) and we go to the hotel to make the bags.

12 August 2005.
Rejkiavik - Milan.
We have all morning to visit the capital city to the north of Europe. Turn to walk up to the cathedral that dominates the old town, visit the neighborhoods and gardens all around. The city is still asleep after bagordi usual Runtur weekend.
All'Hertz returned the car and unfortunately we lose the bus to the airport. We have to take a taxi (famous for being among the most expensive in the world). Feel the exhilaration of pay 7500 crowns (100 euros approx) to travel 30 km. Patience.
The flight departs on time and arrives at Malpensa airport with a few minutes in advance.