A river of wine across the underground cathedrals: a day in Canelli. Piedmont, Italy

content:
photos:
Vote this travel review

The brilliant clarity of a glass of Muscat, sweet and aromatic, which caresses the senses like music that speaks to the heart: this is the essence of Canelli, beautiful city of Asti, known for its excellent wine. The Muscat Canelli, as well as the sparkling wine typical of these hills, are present in the wine of the best restaurants in the world, and their unique taste is contained the history of this city, surrounded by rows of vineyards since Roman times. Among the first places to visit, there are in fact the Underground Cathedrals, the charming sparkling wine aging cellars that are issued under the city.
Coming into this bastion of wine, welcomes us a postcard-perfect view: the old town of Canelli, perched on a hill that touches the 500 meters high, and dominated by the Castle, or the imposing Palazzo Gancia. Built in the eleventh century to defend the roads leading from there to Savona, the castle was destroyed during the war against the Monferrato in 1617. Among the events that characterized those years of war, stands the Siege of Canelli in 1613, happened in the wars for the succession of the Duchy of Monferrato. The siege, operated by the troops of Charles Gonzaga, is remembered every year with a grand historical pageant in June.
With absolutely peaceful intent, but we are setting out to conquer us Canelli, a company which is a pleasant walk to above the highest point of the hill, where you will find the castle and the parish church of San Leonardo. At the beginning of the route we visit the beautiful Church of St. Thomas, originally from the twelfth century, which holds within it interesting furniture and canvases painted during the Baroque period. On the high tower stands the emblem of the Dog, emblem and symbol of the city, remember that the church had been erected at the expense of the City, as a "civic temple".
Walking down a steep road, the church rises to the top of the city called Villanuova. The uphill rewards us with the beauty of the landscape, curve after curve suggestive. The green background of the surrounding vineyards stand russet roofs of the houses and the bell tower of St. Thomas, all wrapped in a silence priceless. We reach it, through a neighborhood that has preserved its medieval urban footprint, the Church of San Leonardo, with his many works of art, including paintings by the artist John Charles Aliberti Canelles.
Cesare Pavese wrote: "... beyond the hedges he felt the vineyard and saw the reeds: this is the beauty of Canelli. It seems to be far away, in a different country, and the hill is no longer the hill, even the sky is clear, as when it's raining and the sun together ... "When we sit at the tables of the elegant hall of St. Mark's Restaurant Via Alba, Mrs. Marysia and Mr. Pier Carlo Ferrero, who run for many years, tells the story of this place. "In 2009 we celebrated fifty years of family activities and twenty years of Michelin Star. When Cesare Pavese wrote those lines, the San Marco was already there, and it was an ancient "Ostu" with stabling, which took its name from a church where the peasants go on pilgrimage to propitiate the hatching of "bigat" bugs the silk. Today the church and bigat there are more, but the poetic atmosphere of the place are the same. " We begin our journey of St. Mark in the culinary delicious with fabulous appetizers Piedmont: millefeuille cock and foie gras, roasted red peppers and honey mustard, raw veal Fasson beaten with a knife, pepper stuffed with beef and Piedmontese red rose in the bath . We taste a delicious pie with asparagus tips in a fondue Bettelmatt, besides the tarte tatin with green onions and artichoke puree of broad beans and peas. We follow these goodness, prepared with great wisdom, the very typical hand made ravioli boiled in broth and meat served at the napkin. Accompany these delicacies with excellent wines of Monferrato and the Langhe. Some of our group opted instead for the ravioli "hunchbacks" Asti with their stoves, noodles with sauce and spring vegetables Langa High risotto with asparagus tips. We continue with a delicious rack of lamb with sauce Barbera d'Asti and black truffles, veal cutlet breaded Fasson while some of us choose the cod and tempura artichokes.
Our day in Canelli ends with the gentle magic of the house, starting from the spectacular pastries, fruit compotes, the soft nougat and candied fruit. It crowns the whole with the most delicious creations imaginable, as bunet Langa, the creme brulee au gratin with orange and vanilla mousse, and crunchy amaretto bunet.

Bertha Frances

FOR INFORMATION:
www.comune.Canelli.at.it
www.sanmarcoristorante.it
Ristorante San Marco
Via Alba, 136 Canelli (AT)
0141/823544